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Hello guys!
I have the phone for 3-4 months now, and I used the camera only 3 times.
I noticed that the white color is very bright, and the photo becomes bad (please look at the photos attached). Can you tell me if your camera is having the same problem, or it's only me ?
If it's only me - do you have idea how can I try to fix it ?
Notes:
I changed the ROM 3 times /No difference
I changed the brightness/contrast in the settings, but there is no big difference ( the photo becomes better if I use brightness+contrast = max, but still the white is very bright)
both of these images are backlit... this is very hard for the camera to do, because the foreground is a low light situation... try to adjust the angle of the shot to avoid this situation. In the attached photos I have demonstrated what I am trying to say. These are pics of my 20 year old Cocker Spaniel, Sheeba. Notice in pic 01.jpg, her face is blown out. But in the second it is actually better, and in the third (as I move further around her) her face is now clearly visible.
Remember this is a Pocket PC, with a camera chip. Not a camera with a Pocket PC attached. With that in mind, this camera does a phenomenal job!
Hope this helps!
Also it looks like your lens is dirty, and make sure that the blue plastic is pulled off inside the battery cover...
For the picture of the child tilting the camera down more would have helped the light metering compensate better, see all of the area above his head, that is where most of the metering is taking place.
here is another example
You can also try lowering the brightness down to -1.5 or to your liking. It might help a little bit (it does to me)
Thanks a lot for the tips guys!
From what I'm seeing here the Tilt has just bad camera...
My wife has Samsung U600(with 3MP camera) and the pictures are way better than the Tilt ones.I guess I'll just use her phone.
Thanks again for your help!
You should try the camera outside in the daylight with a front-lit subject before you condemn it.... post some pics from your wifes Samsung for us to view then
Here is how the camera would have metered it (photoshop profile) had you not included the area where all of the light was.
The camera does work pretty awesome with the proper lighting...
Notice in the first two, pointing the camera down, so that the car is the majority of the picture, the camera meters for the car, overexposing the sky. Put pointing the camera up underexposes the car, but the sky is brilliant blue, instead of white....
Now I am not saying that this camera doesn't have problems... on the contrary, this camera has a light leak.. which is clearly obvious when every picture taken has the same Spike in photoshop's histogram. But an ounce of prevention, in this case is truly worth a pound of cure! Play with the camera, experiment with all of the settings, find out what you like best. But most important, just pay attention to the screen and move the camera up, or down, left, or right ever so slightly and watch how the exposure changes... It won't take long before you can take great pictures with it!
Oh yeah, and clean that lens every time you use it!
I've tried all the settings and resolution. I find 640 X 480 to be the clearest. Still pictures are clear. Anything moving in the picture is a blurry mess. Is there a registry hack that improves clearity?
+1 bump +1
Wow, an 18 minute speedbump
Please clarify what you have tried, my Crystal Ball is away for Calibration.
(Or do you expect a 300 $ camera in a 600 $ mobile? )
Did you both try the "reaction time" tweaks that are available in Advanced Config ?
this is coming from a photographer. Blurry objects are caused by moving objects in a low light environment. When trying to capture light in a room with poor lightning the camera shutter will stay open longer to capture enough lights for the exposure. This can be corrected by bumping up the ISO or apenture. Since this cannot be done by the camera on the Fuze you can always turn Flash on to compensate for the low light or resting your elbows on a desk for more steady position
karloe said:
Wow, an 18 minute speedbump
Please clarify what you have tried, my Crystal Ball is away for Calibration.
(Or do you expect a 300 $ camera in a 600 $ mobile? )
Did you both try the "reaction time" tweaks that are available in Advanced Config ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm coming from devices like the Sanyo M1 (2MP Auto Focus, the best camera phone ever on Sprint), Mogul (2MP decent pictures) and Treo 800 (2MP, really nice pics). All I'm asking is for the blurry pics to be better. I took 20 pics yesterday and 18 of them were blurry. I've tried every resolution setting. Like I mentioned earlier it seems L 640 X 480 pictures seem to be better than the higher settings.
Buy SonyEricsson and you get a camera that can be actually used for something...
Mine takes pretty good pictures, do you hold the capture button to allow the auto focus to do its work and then take teh picture without having much movement. The movement is what i found causes the blurriness. I guess it autofocuses on a spot and then when you move it start refocusing but the picture takes anyway?
BTW my sports and burst mode arent working properly, camera freezes up and have to soft reset. Is the 3mp tweak for these modes to much for the CPU to process
Yes, I hold and press which autofocus then snaps. I understand it something in the picture is moving but every pic? That's not normal. I've been taking pictures with phones for years and never ran into an issue like this. Plus this is suppose to be a really advanced 3.2MP camera. Might have taken a step backwards with this one.
One thing I do is turn the brightness down as far as the camera will let me, this really isn't a brightness control but a shutter speed control, lowering the brightness raises the shutter speed, which allows for faster camera response.
I think the problem is probably mostly that the sensor used in our module has an imaging area of 3.61mm*2.72mm, 4.52mm diagonal.. take a look at the chart here for imaging sensor sizes: http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Camera_System/sensor_sizes_01.htm
Notice how the size of our sensor is below the bottom of the chart.. It's often said that a camera with superior MPixel count will lose to a camera with an inferior MPixel count and a superior sensor.. well, our sensor isn't big enough to be able to take really nice 3.2mpix photos.. without ideal conditions. Then there's that whole thing about using a CMOS sensor rather than a CCD sensor..
One thing I think the camera can do better is that it doesn't seem to be operating in progressive-scan mode.. there's noticable tearing all over the place..
VibrantRedGT said:
I've tried all the settings and resolution. I find 640 X 480 to be the clearest. Still pictures are clear. Anything moving in the picture is a blurry mess. Is there a registry hack that improves clearity?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You can remove the back cover of your phone and take a picture... it does make it better.
pandaboyy said:
You can remove the back cover of your phone and take a picture... it does make it better.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think that is somewhat incorrect. For TYNT II and older phones, yes that would work, since it has a plastic cover over the camera. But for the touch pro and the diamond, it should make little to no difference. I've tried it, and I don't see much of a difference, since it's just a hole. Not covered with plastic or anything.
I had the blurry photos problem too. I just tried it and I haven't played with it enough to confirm this fixes the problem (it seems like it reduces the problem but doesn't eliminate it) but try this:
HKLM/Software/HTC/Camera/Captparam/
and set
CaptureTimer = 0 (old=5000)
tell me if you see a difference
Two more things to do - go into the camera advanced settings (in the camera itself) and turn off the click sounds and set the review time to no limit. With those two and the change above I think I have a working camera here...
have you done the "white balance" tweak in your settings? it completely gets rid of that yellow look when you take pics indoors. Also theres rumors saying that turning off the shutter sound increases the camera's quality but I cant prove that
bugsykoosh said:
I had the blurry photos problem too. I just tried it and I haven't played with it enough to confirm this fixes the problem (it seems like it reduces the problem but doesn't eliminate it) but try this:
HKLM/Software/HTC/Camera/Captparam/
and set
CaptureTimer = 0 (old=5000)
tell me if you see a difference
Two more things to do - go into the camera advanced settings (in the camera itself) and turn off the click sounds and set the review time to no limit. With those two and the change above I think I have a working camera here...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I will try that registry hack.
Here's the 'yellow photo' fix if anyone hasn't seen it yet: http://www.fuzemobility.com/?p=951
I think what most people are looking for with regards to photos is not 100% 9mp quality from our phones. I mean, why can't a fix similar to the Tilt's be made?* All I want is a higher FPS in low light conditions.
*Where you can increase FPS (in low light) by running the camera, turning the phone off, covering the lens, then turning the phone back on...
How to make a sharp pitcure:
EDIT: See new post! This one has been erased to avoid confusion.
I tried those tweaks with no success. Pics aren't as blurry but they are pretty crappy. I'm not saying I want 10MP clearity. I just want this camera to be compariable to the devices I previously owned (Sanyo M1 and Treo 800). Right now it's not. I'm going to exchange this device.
Errrr Sorry I stated the wrong registry key. Actually that one does not matter too much. UPDATED version:
1. Change registry key:
- HKLM\software\htc\camera\captparam\Capkeydelaytime = 10
2. Soft reset to activate the hack.
3. Set the capture key of the camera to hold & press.
To make a photo:
- Aim at subject.
- Hold your finger on the round big enter key and wait until the white "[" "]" go green. This might need a slight "touch".
- Shoot by pressing the round big enter key fully.
The problem you're going to run into is the size of the sensor on cell phones in general. You could have a 10mp cameraphone but if they keep the sensor the same size it is now the pix will continue to be crappy.
I will say that the pictures I've taken with my Fuze have been pretty good, and I have really bad shakes in my hands. The autofocus is a huge step forward imo.
Is anybody willing to write an app that will use the light sensor as a light meter for photography? It would be very useful for us photographers here.
maybe this will work for you: http://www.freewarepocketpc.net/ppc-download-waterlevel.html
it has a light meter
no. I dont think you understood me. I need an app that will measure the intensity of light (in my case camera flash) to see if the subject will be well lit up. I need this for when I use my flash off camera and have one chance to get a shot right.
a sorry i didn't notice the meter at the bottom. ill check it out. thanks
That would be the greatest thing ever! I work in the flowerbusiness and the amount of "lux" is very important. I'd be willing to donate 25$ for this.
the one linked above doesn't work.
ooops sorry, it does work, it would be great if we could also get "lux" in
A light meter would be pretty cool. You need to take your aperture into account too you know.
Use the camera
The light sensor is not good enough to use for this purpose, why not use the camera you could get far more accurate light level readings from that, and not just ambient readings either.
Well I was thinking if I had two wireless strobes set up and measure the light in the place where the subject is I can get a reading of the light there
Yeah forget about it.
Watching the Lumos configuration while moving around, initially fascinated, the light meter either detects no light in moderately lit indoor settings, it detects 400 whatever units next to a lightbulb or 1400 in the sunlight -- the purpose of the thing is just to aid the backlight decision making and not give a photographer effective information on calculating the aperature and shutter after you plug in the ISO of the film into some PPC program some guy on XDA whipped up. It's like using the leveler bubble things in the g sensor calibrator if you're an architect or the GPS to measure the coordinates of the foundation and the altitude of the tip of the new Freedom Tower (whenever that happens).
Nice idea though, and we need ideas like this, but this one here would be about as helpful as the GClippers app is for cutting your hair.
Not if the camera were used instead though, you could have all kinds of very accurate light meter readings from that.
I have to ask... why dedicate so much effort to use the phone's camera?
The camera is terrible. Here's a comparison between my Touch Pro 3.15MP and my SE W810 2MP.
http://www.mylilsite.net/images/compare/sdtpw8v3/tpparkinglot1.jpg
http://www.mylilsite.net/images/compare/sdtpw8v3/w8parkinglot1.jpg
Not only does the TP over-saturate the colors in every single picture (of course I'm not linking all my pictures), you can tell that there are more leaves on the ground in the 2MP picture despite the TP having a (superior? nah) 3.15MP camera. Wasted pixel count, can't even match the detail of a 2MP camera.
Maybe the lack of detail in the 3.15MP picture isn't the camera's fault, but the software saving it? Regardless, I maxed out the detail settings for both phones and the end result is pretty bad for the TP.
The idea is not to use the phone camera to take the picture, just as a light meter to aid in using a more professional camera to actually take the shot. You could just tap an area of the screen and get a light reading for that area and all the relevant shutter aperture settings for a given iso. My photography days are passed now, but I did once own a very nice old weston light meter.
I guess the zeiss lens on the se must be far superior to the lens in the tp.
ive tried all types of focus, but even the slightest movement makes it blurry.. anyone hae a fix to this??
Xperia has one of the worst cameras i've ever used in a mobile phone. My 5 year old $150 camera phone with lower pixel count outperforms this one on Xperia. The only use i have is for the light LED which i occasionaly use as a torch. I think the lens quality is so downright pathetic that it takes quite a bit of shutter lag to capture anything. This makes it prone to camera shake. There might be a way to reduce the shutter lag but then the exposure quality would suffer.
all SE phones i had (t610, k700i, k750i ans X1i) were fine in outdoor conditians. the pictures were nice. but its normal if you are moving the phone while taking a picture that the picture wount be sharp. As I said in outdoor conditions everithing was fine.
In bad indor conditions its normal I guess for a phone to easily make a fuzzy picture. It helps if you hold the phone as still as you can. But if the conditions are realy bad like a semi-dark room its almost impossible to make a sharp picture.
You can even see on the screen before you press the shoot button if the pisture runs fluidly it will probably be a nice picture but in bad conditions even the camera view isnt fluid it can be laike 5 fps and then youll need to be still to maka a farly decent pic.
You can set the camera on several conditions like Auto, Outdoor, Indoor, Cloudy, Sport and such...
I have my camera alweys set on Sport so its fluid even in the dark. The pics are little darker then on Auto setting but if the pic is made in normal indor conditions that almost isnt noticeble. Sport works for me alot better then Auto.
Dont realy know how some phones (seen on some midle-low class Nokia) can have great visibilitiy and fluid camera view in realy bad conditions and why high end SE phones cant do that.
there is another thread about this. if u put it in macro mode it seems to work better. the camera itself is fine and good quality but its too sensitive to the slightest movement making it blurry.
also install the r3a beta camera software as that is the best (for some reason SE decided not to include the r3 beta camera software in the final r3 rom, even though it is a lot better than the r3 rom camera software they included).
r3a camera software cab link:
http://rapidshare.com/files/314373093/R3A-XperiaCamera.cab
It seems like on a 6.5 ROM (at least the ROMs i tried) the Camera has longer exposure time. It was hard to shoot a clear photo. Yesterday i changed back to R3A stock ROM and it's much better now. I'll try the R3A beta camer app, maybe its even better.
This may help you http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=577364
IMO the X1 is excellent.
But the trick is to:
Set it to unfished focus - ∞
In most conditions I use Sports mode - makes really sharp pictures.
I use Automatic mode only in a very bad light..
All the settings besides Sports raises up the exposure,
compromising the speed.
Note:
Check your camera glass.
I had to wipe off the invisible paint on it which became blurry after half a year.
Now it's perfect.
If you want, look at my blog photos:
www.doministry.blogspot.com
Sports mode plus flash always on is the answer. Good results but dim indoor pictures.
How I wish I could hack into the flash settings to try to make it brighter... I never found any registry settings and I presume the two levels of brightness are hard wired in.
If I had more time I'd make a little sound activated xenon flash that triggers through the 3.5mm jack. It's a Radio Shack project that's not even too difficult. Anyone out there wanna try? EEs?
howw can ii cheeck if i have r3a camera? i installed barebone rom r3.. but i have autoflash init already.. shoukd i still install the r3 camera cab since this one is blurry even on the ssettings u guys rec ommmended?
Thank you Ganondolf for the link for R3A beta camera cab, yay I know have zoom. I still don't get how the infite focus is the best focused, IMO I think macro is the best focus.
Another question came to me, sense we can import things like zoom is their away to import image stabilization red eye removal, face detection from other WM phones?. The one I'm the most intersted in is Image Stablilization.
Camera lens dirt
Would you take a look at where your lens is located? There must be a severe smear. You better peel them off compeletely with your nails and erasers. It's a known problem of X1 lens film's poor quality and not sure that thin film has done any good till now, but now i have a crisp clear quiality back with that fix.
Hi
Got my Hd 7 from o2 pay as you go
Am quiet happy with it, but has anyone noticed that the camera is a bit rubbish or is it jjust me
Camera snaps close up are super brilliant. but the moment you try to snap far away subjects its all blurish
Its seems to have a digital zoom which just blows up to picture to distortion
I have noticed that even the zoom function just blurs it up as well
feed back would be appreciated
It's indeed not the best WP7 camera but it's not too rubish also. It should be no more than decent (while to video recording with continued focus is ace) . Can you provide a sample so we can judge ?
There was also a pink-camera isue with an earlier HTC device (can't remember the exact model) and problem was solved with a quick update.
yly3 said:
It's indeed not the best WP7 camera but it's not too rubish also. It should be no more than decent (while to video recording with continued focus is ace) . Can you provide a sample so we can judge ?
There was also a pink-camera isue with an earlier HTC device (can't remember the exact model) and problem was solved with a quick update.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
camera on hd7 does suck... tend to bluish every single shot unless u play with scene mode .... thats one of the reason im trying something else .. maybe focus
Hmm.. do you think that it will be possible that they release an update for this?
Not too keen on getting it if the camera is useless.
I have the awesome pink hue issue with mine... and for the other guy... the other phone with the pink problem was the HD2.
anyone know if this is just the software or is the hardware?
ive noticed too that on long distance shots its horrible on keeping focus of the picture. Though i think that maybe because metering is set to center and it cant focus in that much in the distance.
Though your every day snaps are usually ok for me. No problems with tints or anything and i find the video quality to be decent
I haven't had any problems at all with taking photos on my HD7 - no focussing issues, near or far.
Are you guys half-pressing the camera button to focus first, before pressing it the rest of the way to take the photo?
This seems to be the biggest cause of issues, people not realizing it's a two-stage shoot process, just like with digital cameras.
Note to the OP: Metering is actually light metering and has nothing to do with focussing. If you have metering set to centre, the camera will adjust the exposure according to the brightness of the object in the centre of the shot. If metering were set to "average" it would work out the brightness of the whole frame and set the exposure to that. Nowt to do with focus.
Incidentally, don't forget to ensure the lens is free of dust, fingerprints and other crud as that will obviously make your pics look mushy.
nope i always press on the first stage and let it focus and then press