Database Develop

Alternate Thought: Why not build in the mini android pc into the car

I know I'm missing something about AA, but let me ask this newbie question anyway. Oh silly me ..... what is/are the advantages of AA ..... what if users like me are happy with our car sound and video system but just want a Google centric pc and display in the car. You can buy Android mini pc like Minix, Tronsmart and others for around $200 USD or less. 16:9 HD displays with usb touchscreens have dropped in price, so mount one instead of the Garmin type Navi screens.
Yes, for connectivity you do need a wireless technology bridge from LTE to cat5 wired. But really (!), for $500 or less you get great Android system built into your car and you get to operate your sound system seperately. You can mirror or even 'sidesync' between car pc and phablet/phone if you want. Heck, with those smart TV type boxes you can watch all kinds of stuff. With a little thinking, you can connect audio into your existing sound system. You can use any number of ODBII devices to connect to your car's port and run the Torque app on your car Android pc to have all kinds of car diagnostics and live meters. You have almost the entire Google ecosystem available like any other device (almost).
What does Android Auto get you?
I apologize for asking such a seemingly silly question. Why does everything have to become so complicated and expensive?

The promise of Android Auto and its current reality don't quite match up yet but it is very early and I think it is a matter of time.
AA (and CarPlay) is meant to surface the most important functions of your smartphone and provide a more integrated and less distracting way of interacting with those functions. More integrated in terms of working with steering wheel functions (e.g. volume, next/prev, voice command, etc) and current media playback (e.g. pausing or muting existing audio to deliver turn-by-turn instructions). Less distracting in terms of simplified UI with less touching/typing required and more dependence on voice commands. It also eliminates non-essential notifications while driving (I don't need to see the latest Instagram post until I am parked thanks).
I think it also showcases to auto OEMs what is possible with some good design thinking. I own a 2014 VW with the most unintuitive, cumbersome, slow, frustrating navigation you could imagine. An Android Auto head unit that provides an excellent Google Maps nav experience is light years ahead of a system like that.
Dropping in a smartphone Android interface into a dashboard misses much of what AA is meant to deliver. It may be somewhat more integrated but it is no less distracting.

SCKoman said:
I know I'm missing something about AA, but let me ask this newbie question anyway. Oh silly me ..... what is/are the advantages of AA ..... what if users like me are happy with our car sound and video system but just want a Google centric pc and display in the car. You can buy Android mini pc like Minix, Tronsmart and others for around $200 USD or less. 16:9 HD displays with usb touchscreens have dropped in price, so mount one instead of the Garmin type Navi screens.
Yes, for connectivity you do need a wireless technology bridge from LTE to cat5 wired. But really (!), for $500 or less you get great Android system built into your car and you get to operate your sound system seperately. You can mirror or even 'sidesync' between car pc and phablet/phone if you want. Heck, with those smart TV type boxes you can watch all kinds of stuff. With a little thinking, you can connect audio into your existing sound system. You can use any number of ODBII devices to connect to your car's port and run the Torque app on your car Android pc to have all kinds of car diagnostics and live meters. You have almost the entire Google ecosystem available like any other device (almost).
What does Android Auto get you?
I apologize for asking such a seemingly silly question. Why does everything have to become so complicated and expensive?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your "build your own Android mini-PC" idea will seem VERY complicated to "regular people".
Regular people can buy a new car with AA HU installed, and simply plug their stock Android phone in. Or buy an aftermarket HU and have any of thousands of shops install it for you. How may shops will build, configure and install a custom mini-PC ? Mp3car.com MAY do it for $10,000.00 or more I guess... (See their website for custom work.)
Android Auto, after a few years of fixes and new apps supporting it, will hopefully provide a "just works" solution.
Android/computing enthusiasts may prefer to build their own systems and spend many hours tinkering etc. Or they may just want a "just works" solution here too.
Different audiences, different requirements.

Good points .... marketing savvy ... I like.

Head units with android USB Audio!

TL;DR Auxillary and bluetooth have much lesser quality than USB. Video links below show stereo head units that support Android USB audio with app control for the best quality connection (Spotify, Pandora, Google Play Music via USB in your car!) These are single DIN head units without AA.
For audiophiles such as myself, auxiliary cables or Bluetooth is unacceptable when connecting to my car audio system. With these methods, the phone acts as the digital to audio converter instead of the head unit thus greatly reducing sound quality on a high end system. With a USB connection, the phone only acts as storage and a music player while the head unit acts as the DCA.
Finding head units that have a compatible USB connection to android devices has been very difficult in the past. I resorted to storing all my music on an old iPod touch to get Spotify working with my car through USB. The new Android Open Accessory 2.0 is changing that.
I have found a few of youtube videos demonstrating Android USB plug and play connection with two different modes:
App control: Spotify, Pandora, iHeartRadio, Google Play Music ect. (Yes SPOTIFY!!!)
MTP: browse local music files.
- supports basic functions such as play/pause/next/prev
- should work with android version 4.1+
- beware: some head unit models require a software update which can be installed through usb.
- warning: these videos only show connection to nexus phones, meaning if your phone isn't running google edition AOSP, it could cause problems.
- note: AOA 2.0 is different than the android audio update with lollipop, which was meant to allow connection to a separate external DCA via USB OTG.
- more info about the 3 types of android USB connection found in this thread: http://forums.androidcentral.com/an...3-will-android-l-allow-usb-audio-out-car.html
Videos with demonstration:
Pioneer DEH-X2800UI
https://youtu.be/gssbmXJ2pzw
Pioneer DEH-X3800UI
https://youtu.be/dztgOvrUnSE
Pioneer DEH-X5800HD
https://youtu.be/kReFemy4UmU
JVC KW-R910BT
https://youtu.be/h1n6WVefhKc
There are undoubtedly many other head units that support AOA 2.0, but these have video proof!
I have a Nexus 5x, I just ordered the Pioneer DEH-X3800UI for $75 on Amazon.
Ill have the head unit installed within the next week, and will give an update.
Hello Android USB Audio! Goodbye and good riddance iPod touch!

I'm hoping somebody has bought one of these headunits & can confirm how well it works.
Does it essentially work like a USB DAC would & all audio including waze, Poweramp youtube all play through the headunit and speakers?
edit: I found the answer, yes ALL audio goes through the headunit. See here:
go to 5:15
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyOh32a-cY8

TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.

ibCurlyFry said:
TL;DR probably All head units with AOA 2.0 support that on the market right now have a clicking/micro pausing problem.
Sorry for a late response, I had to do some research, as explained below.
Now its time for the good, the bad, and the ugly!
The Good: The head unit preformed as promised, it was simple plug and play to rout all audio from the phone to the car speakers, matching Ipod via USB quality. Spotify, Youtube, Soundcloud, and even Maps navigation all worked.
The Bad: Every 5-30 seconds there is a quick high pitch clicking sound accompanied by a micro pause of the audio of about a quarter of a second. This clicking only happens with a constant audio stream such as a song, not with something brief such as a Maps navigation direction, nor when the phone is plugged in without any audio being streamed. Sometimes I would get lucky and the audio would be perfect for a couple minutes, once even for a couple songs. But when it does happen, the clicking is quite loud and high pitch and with micro pause it is easily noticeable during a normal song. I had 3 friends come listen to my "new setup" to ask them how it sounds, and all 3 of them noticed it. Unacceptable for an audiophile such as myself, so i did some research and conducted some experiments.
The Ugly: I devised a way to easily notice and keep track of the clicks. I played a low constant tone of a 40hz sine wave at high volume which made the abrupt high pitch clicks very loud (and annoying) in contrast to the low constant tone, and it made the micro pauses very obvious due to the interruption of the bass. With my phone I would hear random clicks every 5-30 seconds. I then tested 5 different android phones with various ROMs and about 10 different usb cords and many combinations of them. Clicking was reliably random. I changed kernel settings on some of the phones to see if the cpu performance was effecting it. I tried various apps such as sound about and the pioneer music app. Nothing changed.
I then went to an electronics store that had 8 head units available in store that supported Android Open Accessory 2.0. all hooked up for listening and ready for testing. There were 3 Pioneers, 2 JVC's, and 3 Kenwoods. ALL of them had the clicking problem. The Pioneers were the worst: the most frequent and loud clicks, followed closely behind by the JVC's. The Kenwoods, had clicks every 30 seconds to 2 minutes, and were about 40% less loud. I suspect that with the Kenwood head unit the average person might not be able to detect the clicking and micro pauses during a normal song, but I know i could in my high end system, especially after all this nonsense i would be passively listening for it.
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.

s2g-unit said:
ok wow, I'll try to get to a shop soon& test my tablet.
I'm really hoping I can use an OTG cable + hub & then go into one of these headunits. I need the hub in my car for rear camera & SSD media drive.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191

ibCurlyFry said:
Yeah OTG >> USB DAC is what im going to have to do too, unless i find a fix for the clicks.
This post could help: http://www.head-fi.org/t/595071/android-phones-and-usb-dacs/5430#post_10929191
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?

s2g-unit said:
I do actually have a Hifimediy u2 USB DAC.
I'm hoping to go from nexus 7>otg>hub>straight into the AOA 2.0 receiver.
If not my backup will be the USB DAC into a Pioneer 80prs.
Anybody have input?
What would be better in terms of sound quality?
-The aoa 2.0 allows me USB streaming digital into HU
vs
-USB DAC (by passing internal DAC) into Pioneer 80PRS (Amazing Sound quality HU for 250$) but this will have to be done via AUX.
Does the fact I have to use AUX even matter? will it degrade the quality?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also

ibCurlyFry said:
I know using straight AUX from the device tremendously reduces sound quality due to the device acting as a crappy DAC, then sending the audio signal through the AUX to the unit.
But if it goes to a separate DAC then through AUX, i dont know. I would like to find out also
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've posted on a few car audio boards. Nobody seems to ask this in the past becasue everybody in the past used ipod via usb. Bluetooth if they dont care about quality.
I think in most cases like you said, the response was negative to using AUX but thats because of the headphone jack / internal DAC as you know.
I'm just curious like you to know how much we would loose by using AUX. Maybe some will say it's because of another D/A conversion but can anybody really tell? I'll wait for some answers.

In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)

Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.

s2g-unit said:
I don't get why you think he needs an Android Auto Setup?
Double DIN radio are more for toys. They don't have the EQ or processing power of single DIN's.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uh... I never said that he "needed" AA. I am certainly not an expert on head units and am not a claimed audiophile but based on what the requirements were, I don't see a reason why AA can't work. It is simpler to setup, includes spotify support, as well as a more cohesive and unified interface. Based on the issues getting audio over USB to work I think AA is a good alternative.
I'm not sure how DDs have less processing power but if you need such a thing, just add a DSP. I personally am fine with just an amp. Seems very extreme to claim them as toys. I wouldn't be so prejudiced...

Soul0Reaper said:
In regards to the OP, if you have a high end car system, why not shell out for an Android Auto head unit? The data for music is sent via USB I'm pretty sure as I can tell a clear difference between my Kenwood's BT vs AA.
(I suppose flac files are an issue but you mentioned spotify, which does have AA support)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.

ibCurlyFry said:
Conclusion: I suspect that there is either a fundamental problem with Android Open Accessory 2.0 that causes the clicking, or the stereo manufacturers are cutting corners somewhere, or maybe some incompatibility issue with the software. I just don't know. I tried to do more research but I have found nothing online about this specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..

mikereidis said:
AOA only supports 44.1 KHz sampling rate. Maybe a re-sampling issue.
To test I'd try 44.1 source material on a device that is native 44.1.
Note also that Google considers AOA deprecated and discourages it's further use. Very few people used it so Google may not bother fixing bugs, and it may not be a part of their Compatibility Test Suite..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didnt come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple

ibCurlyFry said:
Thanks for the info, ill test the sampling rate theory
And its crazy that these head units that support aoa didn't come out until mid-late last year... The stereo companies need to get on track with google and take a break from suckling the teet of Apple
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.

s2g-unit said:
None of the shops near me have any of these HU's setup. I'll wait a 1-2 weeks for other peoples developments. If its still the same , I'll just buy a Pioneer 80PRS.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Theres actually alot more than i thought, heres a more complete list:
JVC models: http://www.jvc.net/cs/car/firmware/2014/aoa/
Kenwood models: http://www.kenwood.com/cs/ce/aoa2/
Pioneer models: DEH X2800UI, X32800UI, X3800S, X4800BT, X5800HD, X6800BT, MVH X380BT

ibCurlyFry said:
Main reasons:
-Touch screens are difficult to operate while driving
-My car would need modifications to install a double din
-And of course the price. I do have a quite high end system, but It is extremely cost efficient.
I believe AA is a waste of money if all you care about is sound quality because the cheapest solution for usb quality app radio is still just a $70 head unit and a used ipod touch for $50.
This is what I had before I heard about these new head units that still cost $70 but allow usb connection to android with aoa so I could potentially get rid of the ipod and just use my phone, but it hasn't worked out so far lol.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Indeed that is a good point. My unit basically cost the same as what I paid for my speakers and amp. I wish you luck on finding a solution!

With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC

ibCurlyFry said:
With more research i concluded that in the following connection:
Device > USB OTG > DAC > AUX > Head Unit
The aux will not effect the sound quality, but this connection will only be on par with USB if the external DAC is capable of grater or equal sound quality of the Head Unit DAC, AND if the AUX cable is of good quality as well.
That being said, i also concluded that depending on the bit rate of the audio, and the quality of your hardware, bluetooth quality might be indistinguishable from USB, especially in the sound environment of a car. But you would have to test that yourself.
I will be going for the external DAC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.

s2g-unit said:
I have one more shop to check out this week hopefully. I want to test these AOA 2.0 headunits myself with otg cable + usb hub to see if I can still control the tabelt via headunit + test for the problems you had.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
sounds good
Just note the problems i had were occurring when i connected to a AOA 2.0 compatible head unit only via USB (USB A to micro USB).
Not with USB OTG or a USB hub. Idk if it works that way, but let me know

Thoughts? Erisin 3090A - Single Din, quad core, 4.4, 1024x600

I'm looking to get a single DIN flip screen style head unit. Looks like there are really only 2 quad core options out there:
Eonon GA1312: Seems to be relatively popular Klyde design and shows up under a few other "brand" names. It meets my needs but the basic downsides here being the 800x480 screen and typical lack of an external microphone. From a Youtube walk through it looks like it is a KLD5 MCU.
Erisin 3090A: This looks like an upgraded quad core version of the Erisin 8990A (dual core system). This unit has the upsides of a 1024x600 screen, an external microphone (important given this is going in a loud sports car), options for DAB radio and DVB-T TV (not useful here in the US), and a removable face plate. (I can't post links but the specs are posted at the first google search link for "ES3090A")
Needless to say the Erisin looks like the better on paper, but I'm hesitant to pull the trigger. Anyone have any experience, thoughts, or comments on this unit?

I got both.
Eonon GA1312:
Bluetooth is total crap , no one can hear you in a call .
Missing 3g apn setup
unable to change panel leds color, they are blue and blinding.
no detachable front fascia
front usb and front audio in
Simple to root with a password.
Some apps cannot pass the initial screen due to low Res.
Shutdown timer does not work.
It has configurable reserve camera lines
Erisin 3090A
Bluethooth calling is great plus it has an additional external mic.
Device seems to have 2 Bluetooth devices , one for the phone and other for android
Any color you fancy for the panel leds
detachable front fascia
Can only be rooted via king root ( i was able to replace king root with superuser)
missing multitask button.
No front usb or audio in.
Shutdown timer set a 10 seconds, unable to change so far.
Dos not have configurable reserve camera lines ( most cameras come with lines integrated anyway.)
Both units have the same cpu.
Both units DVR are crap,most of the time they ether crash or fail to start.
The Eonon GA1312 has most setting integrated into the android control panel while the other unit has several other apps to change settings.
Also the Eonon GA1312 seems to have slightly better sound out of the box.
Hope it helps

Erisin a3090 a3090aen 3090aen android quadcore
After extensive reseach ,I also considered a couple of options.
I have a supra mk4 1993. It's double din sits quite low, so opted for a single din with fold out display. So i used the upper part of the space..
Also considered the dvb and TV for posible future uses.
Also there is a reverse camera input with reverse sensor contact as well as the expected dvr with the plug and play USB camera.
I tried a couple of USB cameras and the unit crashed or the app crashed, thought it was a pile of cap,* however I read that it has to be the camera supplied by Erisin. After purchase, the camera has been 100% . Dvr loop, 3 ,5 and 10 mins with option to use specific memory, adjustable up to 500mb.
Not tried the reverse camera as yet.
The Bluetooth works well, I have connected the android phone via Bluetooth for music and the torque unit. They work as expected.
However I did find that on occasions, the phone would knock off when I tired to activate the obd2 Bluetooth adaptor. ( got a converter adaptor on ebay £14)
I got around this by connecting the phone first.
I've not yet tried to connect 3 or more devices as yet.
The 4 really annoying thing are,
1. When on a Bluetooth call, you cannot access the android unit. It seems to lock on to the call screen.
2. Fast processor,* my arse.* More like missing a couple of cores. Slower than my galaxy s5. But fast enough for the pleasures it brings.
3. The Google voice app and other voice apps say error when trying to use. "Mic not working", (something like that).
The mic works normal on the phone and the voice memo apps.
The same happened on another new unit.
4. It seems like there is a limited memory for apps. Can't seem to change where they are stored.
I got about 6 apps totaling around 600mb. And it ran out of storage.
Other things like no AM Radio.
The screen only folds up to 90° angle exactly, so if it's low down on the dash, it may be an issue.
No mic on the dvr they provide,* or the app doesn't support it.
The Satnav could do with having the speed cameras info. But It didn't,* it does have the option to warn for it and others, in the settings though.
The WiFi works well if very close to the antenna otherwise seems to go weak very fast when creating a small distance.
I tested it with a new extended wifi antenna, and actually got a slower speed, but that could be a faulty lead!
I actually was able to test 2 units as I wanted to make sure that my initial unit was working as it should.
And it was. So I returned the second unit after extensive comparisons on data speed and app response times etc.
Despite the problems, I am sure I made the correct decision.
Amazing piece of kit considering I'm updating an old double din of 10 year old with satnav etc.
I use it via a "hotspot" , from my phone. Works really well.
Memory locations and availability work well.
Sound is great.
Ended up costing me £215 after I complained about the mic thing.
I'm sure that another app is blocking the mic from working on the Google thing and other voice apps.
Any or update would be really appreciated to help with my issues above.
I hope I have been of some help.
Contact me at [email protected]
Thanks

Is this a MTCB unit? Can I install Malaysk ROM on it?

DIY Samsung tablet car system vs dedicated AA touchscreen head unit

Just bought a used 2007 Toyota Solara SLE convertible (with JBL 7 speaker system), and looking to replace stereo. I've read up on here and elsewhere about some of this, but still have some Q's before moving forward.
Main needs:
Spotify (strongly prefer NOT to use bluetooth due to audio compression)
GPS (The larger the screen, the better for this)
Theft-resistant (Either looks not worth stealing, has removable face without wearing out connectors, is built-in and looks hard to steal, etc)
I'll drill down on the details in a bit, but I'd like a little perspective first on reasons why it would matter if I go with a dedicated head unit, or possibly get the fiddly bits and hook them up myself to do something like a slide-mounted Samsung tablet that I can easily pop in and out.
1) Is there some reason in general why one path is better than the other?
2) If I go DIY route, I've been reading up that Android Auto is not available for tablets without data (wifi only versions). Can't tell if that info is outdated, or still true. I see a few mentions of 3rd party workarounds, but not much info on how they are working.
3) I'd really prefer a larger readout as I use GPS heavily on a regular basis. The detachable ones I see for 10.1 screens from Joying, etc look to have connectors NOT designed for daily plug/unplug. Do these hold up?
4) Is it better for theftproofing to have a removable face, or something smaller that fits in the double din and looks harder to steal?
5) If I do the DIY route, does the audio come out of the tablet via usb and need a d/a, or out of the phones jack?
5) There seems to be info out there for DIY to get the steering controls working, car info like tire pressure, temp, etc. If I then already have the amp, and can work out the audio, and get info to and from via bluetooth with my phone or using my phone as hotspot, that's all bases covered, right? Is there anything I'm missing that CAN'T be done this way and would be better off just getting head unit?
6) Are the dedicated head units less updatable or anything like that than something like a samsung tablet?
7) Is there an issue with my 7 speaker system? Haven't checked, but I'm under the impression from some conversations I've had that there's a 7 speaker dedicated amp currently in place (not part of existing head unit). I read something about certain versions of AA not supporting subs. Not sure what that means. If I'm replacing head unit with full DIY rig, can't I just sent audio to the amp, and it splits from there, or does processing and separate out for sub need to somehow happen prior to the amp?
FYI: Asking in part because I'm thinking about getting a tablet anyway, and might as well have dual use if possible. Also, I'm considering idea also of leaving the stock stereo as is (has BT for voice, but not audio streaming), and rigging a detachable dock for tablet that then feeds audio via the aux input. I guess if I go this third route, I'd store music on it locally, and use it's wifi with my android phone as mobile hotspot to get new tracks, access map data, etc.
Thoughts on why one path is better?

Too many q's?
Available info in another thread? (I've searched and read all I could find)
Better in another subforum? (Connected car maybe?)

Thank you for the questions it is helping me do more research.
If any one can answer part of a question please chime in.

1. Android tablets (Samsung, LG) over Chinese (KLYDE, Joying, etc) units:
- better screen - even an old Galaxy Tab3 has a screen 10x better than any chinese in-car unit.
- cleaner Android implementations - chinese units suffer from poor system implementation that generates lots o0f issues with Bluetooth audio quality, OBDII pairing, WiFi and 3G/4G compatibility
- software upgradable - again, my Samsung Galaxy Tab3 from 2013 runs Nougat. My Klyde in-car unit runs Lollipop
- better RAM, usually
- more flexible in implementation
Chinese (KLYDE, Joying, etc) units over Android tablets (Samsung, LG):
-easier to install
-FM radio
-some level of integration with the car's systems
2. Since version 2.1 Android Auto is a standalone app so it will run on WiFi only units
3. No idea. But if I were to take the DIY road, instead of removing the tablet I'd have a fake panel to cover the screen, with the front part of a cheap stereo.
4. It depends on your preferences. Audio will be much better if run through an external d/a converter but you can start with getting the signal from the headphone jack and add a converter later.

Probably 2 main differences:
Android tablet wont have good amplifier. Not so good sound, you must install many apps from yourself (this is good and bad), no radio probably or bad radio. You must also connect an antenna for the radio if the tablet has one.
You must also do some modding by yourself, connection for power etc. Probably use tasker for some things, search in youtube and other places for suitable script. Xposed, app settings will help for making many apps more car like.
Search for car launcher etc.
I am writing this as i have installed in past, not tablet but mobile phone (an old galaxy s2) in a Fiat punto. So i have done those im Writting for.
If you give time and efford at the end it could be better the result compaired with a dedicated one.
The dedicated one has the benefit of don't search at all. Just install, plug and play. Probably better sound.
If it has android, you can make many things with this. Probably most as the tablet i wrote before.
If it only has android auto you can do only basic things..
Sent from my SM-G9350 using XDA-Developers Legacy app

Ok, I had both approaches with 2 different chinese units and one Zenpad.
- 1st Chinese unit, piece of .... so I almost smashed it with a hammer in a fury rage, so got it sold after 3 month, conclusion stay away from XTRONS!
-2nd I had a Zenpad built into my dash, lucky enough for me my dash was big enough to easily fit in an 8" tablet. I bought a mechless Sony car radio, which is much smaller than a normal unit and I hid it behind the tablet, steering wheel remote control still worked, so I could control the radio from the steering wheel, but never needed anything else than adjusting the volume. I did not use FM radio at all. See attached picture. This has a few potential problems, most probably you won't be able to charge the device & use the usb port at the same time, you will need a custom kernel for that or a USB-C tablet. Also its much more difficult to fit it in properly, when the system freeze or crash and you need to hard reset it, it can be painful, however overall I was very pleased with my setup. Since you cannot use the tablet for the bluetooth hands free I still needed to use a Himbox HB001. TIP: The install was done with the help of a 6mm acrylic sheet, which I cut to size using a jigsaw.
-3rd changed the car and couldn't do the same thing in the new car so I bit the bullet and bought another chinese unit, this time I went to an Intel based one. So far so good, I have only done about 1000 miles with it but it looks to work OK, boot up is really quick, bluetooth A2DP quality is good (not like the crap XTRONS), handsfree quality seems decent, but I need more feedback from others on this, I hear them clearly the question is how good they can hear me, so I can recommend the unit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301955449854
And now to the Android Auto question, they run on all of them, just use my app: https://forum.xda-developers.com/ge...ndroid-4-1-headunit-reloaded-android-t3432348

Dual BT Question

Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?

AddictedToGlass said:
Which is your favorite color phone case?
After watching a few YouTube videos I now understand that the dual feature of the Note 8 Bluetooth has nothing to do with Bluetooth 5.
From what I've learned, Bluetooth 5 is simply a combination of Classic Bluetooth (2 & 3) coupled with Extended Bluetooth (high range with lesser throughput), which does NOT mean you can expect to crash n your speaker in the house from the garden.
In other words, for the DUAL Bluetooth feature on the Note 8, it would appear that there are in fact two separate BT reciever / transmitters.
Can anyone verify this?
Also, if this is true, how likely will it be that either a software update or an app will be able to take advantage of this, and split stereo channels to two separate Bluetooth speakers, thus giving true stereo sound in the home?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!

AddictedToGlass said:
Why I dunno, ATG! That's a pretty good friggin' question about a thousand dollars phone to ask here, on what's arguably the largest collection of handset-technology educated folks on the Internet.
Ohmagosh, let's see what they say...!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.

Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.

AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My problem isn't the latency it's the dang volumes. Even with the setting. Can't think of it as I haven't tried in a while. But one of my speakers are as quiet as can be the other is blazing loud. I could never get them to even nearly match...
Surely it's only got one Bluetooth chip just allows more than 1 connection.
No different than having your speakers and a watch connected at the same time 2.
Just 2 audio streams at once
What hasn't Bluetooth allowed more than once bt device gonna had before as long as they used different profiles

I have several speakers, and also two of the same model by the same brand, and until now, I could never get then to play at the same time.
Maybe I should just bitter the bullet and buy a system that splits the stereo channel between two speakers after.

Dual Bluetooth feature means that you can connect with two Bluetooth audio devices at same time and music on the phone will be played simultaneously on the both devices. Left audio channel on the first connected, Right audio channel on second connected.
Switch "Dual audio" via 3dots Bluetooth menu.
Only first device can control (pause/play/next/previos) phone's player.
There is no need both devices to be same brand/model.
Bluetooth version of devices is also not important.
All version are backwards compatible with previous versions. So if your phone is v5, first speaker v4, second v2, so all communications will be on v2.
Even v1 Bluetooth support up to 8 devices multiple (serial) connections. One phone connected to 7 others and gaming multiplayer (Nokia N-gage) . But just now manufacturer deside to make two (audio channels) connection.

ChoSmile, I'm failing to understand...
Are you saying they are already separated into left and right audio channels??

dual Bluetooth has nothing to do with channel separation; all it does is allow 2 devices to be connected to your phone via Bluetooth at the same time, listening to the same exact audio stream

Jammol said:
Why I don't know, maybe it does have two BT chips in it. I'm going to guess it does. The delay sucks though for sure.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
AddictedToGlass said:
Meh... I'll take any answer I can get at this point just get the discussion going. Can't believe this hasn't been a major discussion topic yet, and I can't find anything about what I'm asking on the web.
The delay can be remedied by changing placement of the phone between the devices. In other words, from what I've read / heard, no matter how different the two speakers are, there's a theoretical distance between each one that is the ideal placement for the phone where they'll be no lag between the two. I've done this in my own house. I relocated a small table in the foyer to get optimum placement between the dining room and living room speakers.
I have yet to try this with identical speakers to check if midway between them is ideal placement for the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I play music through poweramp to 2 phillips bt speakers that can connect together anyways. But it's a pain to connect them like that so I just connect them with the dual bt the phone uses. I know what your talking about with the delay so right away I figured out that after they are paired and music starts playing (delayed of course) I simply force close poweramp, go back in and hit play and..... No delay

I'm using 2x Sony Srs-XB10s which natively support stereo pairing themselves, and I dual audio to a Marley with a cheap iPod dock, bluetooth adapter.
There's a ~1s delay from the Sony's when they're in native-stereo mode.
There's ~0.3s delay when they're attached singularly over Bluetooth. This fluctuates, but usually grows to ~0.8s over 2 minutes, then resets.
It's upsetting the audio can't be delayed per-device manually.
I love the technology though and it excited me I could in theory have 5.1 with this solution (Marley is almost a 2.1) but alas it's not mature enough.
Keenly interested in the progress of this feature! Saves the manufacturer having to implement it, though Sony's, despite the bigger delay, is very very simple and obviously there's no delay between their own 2 speakers.