Related
I can pair my Velocity (Telstra Oz Branding still with stock OS) with a Windows 7 32-Bit pc but it will not connect. During installation (& under Device Manager), I get warning that Windows could not find the driver for "Bluetooth Peripheral Device".
I have no issues with pairing or connecting other devices on either the Velocity or the PC - it's just between the Velocity and the PC. I've just come from the HD2 so I'm a newb with this Handset which was fine.
I can on the PC "send a file" to the phone just fine but no PAN or tethering...or are these features not yet part of Andriod 2.3.7 or is there some setting I don't know about?
Thanks
Nathan
jmone said:
I can pair my Velocity (Telstra Oz Branding still with stock OS) with a Windows 7 32-Bit pc but it will not connect. During installation (& under Device Manager), I get warning that Windows could not find the driver for "Bluetooth Peripheral Device".
I have no issues with pairing or connecting other devices on either the Velocity or the PC - it's just between the Velocity and the PC. I've just come from the HD2 so I'm a newb with this Handset which was fine.
I can on the PC "send a file" to the phone just fine but no PAN or tethering...or are these features not yet part of Andriod 2.3.7 or is there some setting I don't know about?
Thanks
Nathan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Had the same issue with mine.
1. Instal HTC Sync
2. Pair set your phone discoverable.
3. Search for bluetooth devices from your PC.
4. Select your phone.
5. After pairing your mobile go to
Start->Devices and Printers right click on your phone name Properties then Services tab, choose only
Advanced Audio - tick if your bluetooth pc is compatible or leave it blank
EMAIL - leave blank
File Transfer (Obex) - tick
Headset Audio Gateway - tick if your bluetooth pc is compatible or leave it blank
Object Push (Obex) - tick
Remotely Controllable Device - tick if your bluetooth pc is compatible or leave it blank
SMS - leave blank.
Then on your PC right click on Bluetooth icon choose Join Area Network and select your phone.
Hope it will help. This resolved my issue.
But just to let you know My HTC Raider is not able to receive *.apk extension over bluetooth. MP3, jpg perfect.
Mmmm looks like my handset is only advertising that it has EMAIL and SMS as "Services" to the PC. Do you know if I need to install anything on the Handset?
Thanks
Nathan
I don't know what PAN is, or maybe I just dont recognize the acronym, but you should use the wireless hotspot for tethering, much, much, much, faster than BT.
FYI - Straight from Wikipedia:
=============
Bluetooth vs. Wi-Fi (IEEE 802.11)
Bluetooth and Wi-Fi (the brand name for products using IEEE 802.11 standards) have some similar applications: setting up networks, printing, or transferring files. Wi-Fi is intended as a replacement for cabling for general local area network access in work areas. This category of applications is sometimes called wireless local area networks (WLAN). Bluetooth was intended for portable equipment and its applications. The category of applications is outlined as the wireless personal area network (WPAN). Bluetooth is a replacement for cabling in a variety of personally carried applications in any setting and can also support fixed location applications such as smart energy functionality in the home (thermostats, etc.).
Wi-Fi is a wireless version of a common wired Ethernet network, and requires configuration to set up shared resources, transmit files, and to set up audio links (for example, headsets and hands-free devices). Wi-Fi uses the same radio frequencies as Bluetooth, but with higher power, resulting in higher bit rates and better range from the base station. The nearest equivalents in Bluetooth are the DUN profile, which allows devices to act as modem interfaces, and the PAN profile, which allows for ad-hoc networking.[citation needed]
==================
One benefit of Bluetooth is it chews much less power as the range is limited. I'm guessing the profile is not in 3.2 of Andriod so I'll wait and see what ICS brings.
jmone said:
Mmmm looks like my handset is only advertising that it has EMAIL and SMS as "Services" to the PC. Do you know if I need to install anything on the Handset?
Thanks
Nathan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello, have you got installed drivers for your bluetooth dongle? it looks like there is only basic microsoft service/driver automaticly installed. Usualy bluetooth module has got Broadcom chipset. Try to find out what make it is in device manager on your PC. Did you try to pair another handset to your pc? If behaviour is the same on your PC that means you need drivers for your bluetooth module. Check if cd was included with bluetooth when you bought it.
Yeah on my HD2 (WinMo 6.5) I get DUN and PAN (Windows Bluetooth services reports the device supports DUN, SPP, Telephony). On my Tab I get DUN (Windows Bluetooth services reports the device supports DUN). On my Velocity I get sod all (Windows Bluetooth services reports the device supports Email and SMS).
Win Device Mgr reports my BT Radios as Apple Braodcom Built In and the MS Bluetooth Enumerator.
Thanks
Nathan
I usually just tether via wifi and charge it off the usb still, then i can have it plugged up to power but if I need to take a call I can always disconnect it breifly without interuption to the internet... I've never really gotten on well with BT, I always found it cumbersome... that and my main laptop doesnt have BT... so wifi or usb is the only option
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
AAGateWay Documentation.
Beta released (04.01.2020)
What is it?
AAGateWay is a an app which should allow you to use an auxiliary (slave) device to connect your existing Android Auto compatible car to your phone (master) using a hotspot created on your phone.
How to use it?
SLAVE SETUP
1) Install the app using XDA Labs (Only on SLAVE) : https://www.b3itlabs.com/prod.php?id=3
2) Configure
FOR BOTH ROOTED AND NOT-ROOTED SLAVES
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Pair Master and Slave over BT (do this from the normal BT settings)
Open app
If slave is ROOTED and ONLY if you are using a TV STICK convert the app to system app. (if app not visible after conversion, reboot device)
Enable the start tethering option (If asked make sure you manually configure the hotspot, to have the name HUR and the password AndroidAutoConnect)
Select the masters phone BT MAC
Exit
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Create a Wifi hotspot from the master
Connect slave to it
Reopen AAGateWay and select the masters hotspot from the "Phone Wifi SSID" list
Slave is ROOTED - This will give a much bigger compatibility with cars, it should work with any car/unit (but depends a lot on the slave used, read below)
Slave is NOT ROOTED - This mode won't work on all cars and it has caveats.
MASTER SETUP
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Install WiFi Launcher for HUR (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borconi.emil.wifilauncherforhur)
Make sure WiFi Launcher is version 2.1 or higher!!!
Open WiFi Launcher
FOR Android 10, set permission location to ALWAYS!!!!!!
Select slaves BT from the BT list and exit
DO NOT ENABLE ANY OF THE OTHER OPTIONS!!!!
If you do not want to use WiFi Launcher you can use the following Tasker task to launch AA on any condition you want: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO-Z5P0oQpHEdrQjYqvSM48L1TI-K5g8/view?usp=sharing
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Open Android Auto, go to Settings, scroll down tap the version 10 times, then from the 3 dotted top right corner select start headunti server.
Exit Android Auto
Leave the Headunit Server running
When you get into the car turn on the hotspot on the master (or use Tasker, automate or anything else do that for you)
CONNECTING
Go to the car, plug in the slave to the car's USB and start the car
Slave is ROOTED
Nothing should happen, car should NOT detect the phone (SLAVE) at this stage. If the car does detect the slave being connected, it means your slave doesn't allow a proper USB toggle, in which case you should try enabling non-root mode.
Master is Pie and above
If you selected to tether from the slave, at this point you should see the slave turning on the hotspot, otherwise you might see the slave trying to connect to a Wifi network.
Slave will notify master
Master will automatically start WiFi Launcher
Master will connect to slaves hotspot
Master will start AA on the phone and notifies slave
Slave will enable USB
If you are using a phone as slave you will get a prompt if you want to use AAGW as the default app for this action, make sure you select ALWAYS ans yes. (TV stick should work automatically)
Projection should start
Slave is NOT-ROOTED (or running in non-root mode)
You will get a prompt to use AAGateWay for this action, make sure you select always.
Car should display a splah-screen saying waiting for master. (on some car's screen you might see a scrambled image)
After splash-screen is displayed, the slave will start tethering, or will try to connect to the masters hotspot depending on the setting.
Once a network connection is established between the 2 devices, you will see the AA icon turning on on the master and Android Auto should be displayed on the car's screen. It is possible that the screen will stay /turn black, if that happens, you can try to press the home button on the infotainment system, then re-open Android Auto on it.
Troubleshoot and getting help
As the thread has so much information it will be really nice if we can try to stick to one format of troubleshooting, by using one of this 2 templates:
Master is running Pie or above and slave is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave actually turned on the hotspot on the slave: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the slaves BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up?: (Yes/No)
Did the master connected to the slaves hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the AA icon appeared on the master at all (in the notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Master is running Oreo or below and master is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did you select the masters hotspot name in AAGW?: (Yes/No)
Have you started the Headunit server on the master?: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the cars BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up (notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Did the master turned on the hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave connected to the masters hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Getting rid of all automation and manually starting it all (regardless of Android version on master and slave):
Uninstall AAGW on the master
Start the headunit server from within Android Auto on the master
Create a hotspot on the master
Open AAGW on the slave and make sure it's not set to tether
in AAGW make sure you select the masters hotspot
If AAGW is set to non-root mode make sure you select the masters BT (just press the button AAGW will do a BT scan of nearby devices and you can pick it from the list)
Go to the car and plug the slave in
Start the car
If slave is running in ROOT mode, slave will first try to connect to the masters Wifi and you will see a notification on the master that AA is running, only then the car should recognise a plugged in device.
If the slave is running in non-root mode, first you will see a splash screen on the car, then you will see slave connects to masters Wifi (if not already connected), then you will see AA starting on the master.
How do I collect a bug report / logcat
Open Settings > About phone.
Scroll down to the Build number.
Tap the Build number 7 times in quick succession until "You're now a developer" appears.
Return to the Settings menu and select Developer options.
At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to On (green).
Scroll down to Debugging and enable both USB debugging and Bug Report Shortcut on (green).
Tab on Logger buffer sizes: Default setting is 256K. Select 16M to help capture more information for debugging. Of note, it can affect the apps performance especially with lower spec phone, so change it back after you have finished submitting bug reports.
On slave make sure you enable debugging inside AAGW, on master open Android Auto go to developer settings and make sure force logging is enabled.
Reproduce the problem
Hold the Power button down until the menu appears.
Select Take bug report. and wait for the device to capture the bug report.
Tap the 'Bug report captured' notification when it appears.
Send the bug report by email to [email protected]
Know problems, workaround:
- Latency & lag. This will be really down to the devices you are using. I have tested it with a MK808B Plus, it work’s ok most of the time but occasionally you will get the odd lag. I’ve also tested it with a Nexus 7 tablet, and there was no lag at all, so device does matter, as well as probably ROM.
- I get random disconnection. There can be 2 causes for this, one the USB connection fails between the car and the auxiliary device, or the Wifi fails between the phone and the auxiliary device. In my tests I saw a few Wifi disconnections without any reason on the MK808, but non on the Nexus. Changing the tethering option from WPA2 to Open did help with this.
- App is closed without error or reason. The app runs in a background process, with a minimal interaction with the foreground, some devices/OS will kill background apps. I saw this happening on Nokia and I saw this happening on OnePlus as well. Try disabling battery optimisation for AAGateWay, that might help.
- I just cannot get it to work… Try using a phone, that will at least give you some visual guidance. Make sure that your device connects to the phone Wifi hotspot, make sure that AA Headunit server is running on the phone (try to force stop Goolge Play Services, stop and restart the headunit server)… All fails contact me
- Nothing happens on the master, using Wifi Launcher for HUR app. In this case, try to manually start the headunit server on the master, and manually turn on a hotspot, then reconfigure you're slave to connect to the masters hotspot (even if the master is running Pie or higher).
Device compatibility:
Master:
Any phone which normally works with Android Auto
Slave with ROOT:
- Tested and know to work: - MK809V, Nexus 7 (depending on rom), Sony X Compact (depending on rom)
-Tested and not working as expected: Pixel 2, MK808B
- While root is necessary, not all phones can toggle USB port on and off by software. And there can be other problems, for example on some devices when you turn off the USB the phone loses the ability to detect the power connection as well, which is use as trigger to start the whole process. It is almost impossible to predict if a phone will be a good slave candidate or not.
Other things
- Xiaomi phones (MIUI makes a mess), try not to use it for Slave
- Generally older phones (pre oreo) are more likely to work fine as a slave device.
Any suggested slave?
- Yes, use an MK809V TV stick, as the experience with it, is pretty slick and it should work out of the box. If you get a MK809IV try to get the one with Android 5.1.1 as the one with Android 7.1 has problems with the tethering.
FAQ.
Q: Can I use this with any car and phone combination?
A: Assuming your car is already Android Auto compatible, then YES.
Q: Can I also automate the start of the Headunit server?
A: Only with a rooted phone, using the following shell command: am startservice -W com.google.android.projection.gearhead/com.google.android.projection.gearhead.companion.DeveloperHeadUnitNetworkService
Q: Can I use Wifi-Direct to connect instead of WIfi?
A: No.
Q: Does the traffic come out from my monthly data allowance?
A: NO, traffic between auxiliary device and phone hotspot does NOT count as internet traffic, HOWEVER if you do have other apps on the auxiliary device which download updates, etc in the background that WILL be counted as internet traffic. So I suggest double check the apps on the aux device and disable all those which aren’t needed.
Q: Will the car/head unit provide enough power?
A: It should provide at least 500mA that’s the standard USB current, while I cannot guarantee that will be enough in all cases, it should do, assuming you do turn off all unneeded services on the TV stick.
Q. What about start up time?
A. It will depend a lot on the device you are using. A low-entry TV stick boot time is about 1 minute, which can be a bit too much for an initial car setup. As mentioned earlier, these devices usually have 2 USB ports, you can for example connect the power USB port to a continues power supply in the car, in which case the boot time will be non-existent since the device is always running. If you are using a phone, the phone battery will probably hold the charge just fine for a couple of days, if you disable all apps on it and you set up a profile to go into aeroplane mode when it’s not charging. Tasker or Automate are your friends for that. If you cannot connect the TV stick to a continues power source, you might consider using a small portable power pack which powers the tv stick (should hold power for a few days) and the power pack can be charged while the car is running.
Q. Can I decrease boot time for TV Sticks/Phones by removing all unrelated software.
A. Yes, actually quite a lot. Once you have your configuration ready and everything is working as expected, you can uninstall/disable all packages beside this ones:
package:android
package:com.android.apkinstaller
package:com.android.providers.settings
package:com.android.packageinstaller
package:com.notriddle.null_launcer (or any other launcher, but NULL launcher has no memory consumption, no app drawer no nothing, perfect for headless - see: https://github.com/notriddle/null-launcher )
package:com.android.inputmethod.latin
package:com.android.settings
package:uk.co.borconi.emil.aagateway
package:com.android.shell
package:com.android.systemui
Easy way to list / disable all apps will be using a computer and following commands
Code:
adb shell pm list packages
This will list all installed packages
Code:
adb shell pm disable xxxx
where you replace xxxx with the package name (Ex: com.android.shell )
Q. Will using Wifi 5Ghz give me better performance?
A. Well if both of your devices support it, SURE!
Q. Is the source code available?
A. Sort-of, please see: https://github.com/borconi/AAGateWay this is only for the sketch, however new version does contain code which lift restrictions on 3rd party apps in Android Auto. To prevent the abuse of this by some, further code won't be updated to GitHub, however if you want to build your own version, please do contact me for details.
Guarantee or Warranty
- Due to the fact that there are so many possibilities and combinations of cars, head units, slave and master devices, there is no way for me to test all of them, however if you did purchase the software and you are not able to get it to work for any reason, please email me on [email protected] and I'm more then happy to refund the purchase.
Teaser:
VERY interested in the progress on this, Emil. For one, this would allow me to charge my Samsung using the Quick Charge adapter in my cigarette lighter, rather than relying on the anemic power output of my truck's USB port. Or if I want to get fancy, I could install a wireless charger and use that.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Another great idea.
Definitely interested..
thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I thought of you instantly when I saw this thread on Reddit, but didn't imagine that you were the creator.
Congratulations and thanks again!
Jackos said:
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly no, that will require altering the firmware on the car and each unit is different. It is possible that those unit might get an official update for Wifi support, but although I'm not 100% certain, I think it will only work with 5Ghz Wifi network, so if you're unit is 2.4Ghz only probably it won't get the update.
If I will ever have times (something which I never have ) I might look into adding this to some units out there, but that is so far down the line, that realistically speaking probably will never happen.
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
This is awesome news! looking forward to progress!
lukesan said:
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Emil Borconi said:
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
lukesan said:
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, sounds like a bit of an issue that you can't really test since we'll have no screen. Well maybe a sort of a config txt file. Most of us will have to clear the thing on a tv screen or monitor anyway because a lot of crap is installed on these devices. I guess it makes sense to have something that can show if the stick is getting data from the phone. There is always a way.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offense to obd2aa, I use it daily, but I'd be interested in this even without it
Where is the APK to give it a try ?
Emil Borconi said:
Currently only a placeholder for those interested in the project while working on development.
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
If you are interested in this project please simply subscribe to this thread and follow the updates.
Teaser:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested, I have a Tahoe with AA and an Android stick. Your project sounds great, can't wait!!
You should have it by the 17th of July, I'm just in the middle of rewriting another app, once I completed that I will focus on this one. I'm going away on a holiday on the 17th of July so I'm really pushing to have it out there by then.
Having the same XAV-AX100, and I was pissed off when I heard that in order to use wireless android auto it needs to be replaced.
Great idea, can`t wait to test it.
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
jeromeo01 said:
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Emil Borconi said:
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its exactly the same.
Mini PC stick, but using windows 10 as OS.
Just a little bit more expensive. But I already have one to try. [emoji6]
https://www.windowscentral.com/best-stick-pcs
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk
(Ya'll are smart people, I have to be missing something obvious, my apologies if this post is comedy and I'm a bad researcher)
Without linking to any specific product i'm curious about the tech related to these 'USB Sticks' that plug into my cars 'Android Auto' USB port and provide a full Android experience for my factory OEM touchscreen radio.
I'm not sure of all the acronyms used in the posts i'm finding on XDA, I don't believe I'm looking for a head unit as I want to use my existing radio. Android Auto enabled, touchscreen.
Can you make such a device from a Raspberry PI, or Arduino, or boot off an SSD/SD/USB Adapter? Plug and Play, hijacks the OEM software and bootloads full android?
TIA!
My understanding is that if you're car is not Android Auto enabled then you will not get anything to work.
CarDongle
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I've been trying to build such "dongle" using Odroid N2 running Android OS acting as Android Auto client. The main problem is that Android Auto connects but I see only black screen on the car's infotainment (audio works - I hear Odroid playing music)
I have no idea what the problem is.
itamarbh said:
CarDongle
CarDongle: USB Car PC Computer Dongle for Vehicles
CarDongle is an Octa-core USB Car Donggle Computer Stick, Up to 4GB RAM 64gb ROM, Mic, MicroSD slot | Check out 'CarDongle: USB Car PC Computer Dongle for Vehicles' on Indiegogo.
www.indiegogo.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Knock off, Chinese origin unit astroturfing on indiegogo.
These are of poor quality and poor experience. They may work for a while then break as google/apple update their products.
Unfortunately indiegogo is being used more often by unscrupulous Chinese origin resellers peddling their grey wares.
[Most of the projects on Indiegogo are cheap Chinese junk already on the market and repackaged as a crowdfunding campaign.]
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I'm afraid of being a "hostage" of some short term projects (exactly as Marchnz wrote - working for a while until the first update). Therefore I want to build my dongle using standard components - SoC (Odroid, RPi, ... ) with a supported Android (Lineage, ...) and "common" protocol (Android Auto, Mirrorlink, ....).
At the moment I'm stuck with Android Auto showing only black screen (the car is authorized and play the sound but no screen output). Mirrorlink (as an alternative to AA) can't be used because the device is not certified for that and I haven't found an "unlocked" Mirrorlink APK.
I have to investigate the Carplay option (aka "Apple Pie").
I have cardongle for a month new and work 100%
I wishing you being satisfied with that for years.
Personally, I wan;t to avoid being locked with a proprietary product without uncertain updates.
@mseg
I use odroid n2 with Screen2auto its works
adrien974 said:
@mesg
I use odroid n2 with Screen2auto its works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
adrien974,could you please describe your working setup including used versions?
I have been testing these components (trying their combination) without success:
- Odroid N2 (there's nothing to discuss)
- Android OS (Hardkernel Android PIE 32 bit 20200520 and PIE 64bit versions 20201105, 20210414, and 20210531) installed on eMMC
- Bluetooth module v5.0 with enabled BT stack (although BT stick blinks its' not visible and can't find out other BT clients). Tested also without BT stack and BT module inserted - the same result
- Open GApps arm64 9.0 pico (20200918, 20210619, and 20210518). The only version 20210518 seems to provide AA support - when Odroid N2 connected to the OTG cabel, AA starts on N2 (however, no video output). The other versions didn't start AA on N2.
- Google app (version 12.18.11.23 and the latest one)
- Google Maps (always the lates one - installed via Google Play)
- Android Auto arm64 (5.9.604644, 6.3.611334, and 6.5.612134) - Google is enforcing to update to the latest AA. I was able to try 5.9 a month ago, now it requires to update to the latest one.
- time synchronized via the Internet
Hi,
all my applications are up to date except Android auto which is in version 6.2
Did you do any "special configuration" (disabled ADB, enabled bluetooth stack, changed rendering, ....)?
I suppose you added you Google account to Play and disabled automatic update for Android Auto?
Do you have a HDMI display connected or are you using fixed resolution (so you don't need connected display)?
mesg said:
Did you do any "special configuration" (disabled ADB, enabled bluetooth stack, changed rendering, ....)?
I suppose you added you Google account to Play and disabled automatic update for Android Auto?
Do you have a HDMI display connected or are you using fixed resolution (so you don't need connected display)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes adb activate, i dont have screen and no bluetooth, update off
I've just youtube black screen :/ magisk 20.4
Thank you for the precious information. I'll give it another try
I've just finished testing with this setup. However, the result is still the same - Android Auto starts on N2 once connected to the car but only black screen appears.
Setup:
- Odroid N2 + eMMC + BT USB + GPS USB
- Hardkernel Android Pie 64bit (up to date)
- OpenGapps pico arm64 20210701
- Google app (up to date)
- Google Maps (up to date)
- Chrome (up to date, just to be sure)
- USB mode = no data transfer
Android Auto:
- 5.9 doesn't connect to the car
- 6.0 doesn't connect to the car
- from 6.1 to 6.5 connects to the car but only blank screen appears
I also tried:
- restarting car infotainment (no change)
- installing Google and AA as system-priv app (using Magisk and Systemizer, no change)
- clearing storage and cache of AA after each upgrade (no change)
- changing USB mode (no change)
- changing Odroid HDMI resolution (no change)
- changing AA mode in developer settings from release to developer (no change)
I suppose I'm not the chosen one and going to use the old dedicated phone, which I wanted to replace by N2 (or any other SoC).
Btw. to be able to use older AA than the current one I had to clean cache and storage of Google Play sevices and Google Play store and deny internet access for them using AFWall+. Otherwise, the AA wizard required to update AA to the latest one.
When you connect to Android Auto for the first connect you have screen on odroid n2?
Yes, connecting N2 to the ca, for the first time (or after cleaning the storage for the AA), I get a wizard on the N2 (therefore I have connected HDMI <--> USB converter to see that on the laptop) asking for six or seven permissions regarding the location, microphone, ... and another one related to let AA show notifications over UI. During this time there's a message on the car's infotainment to "look at the phone's screen once safe". Therefore I believe AA is "ready to be used".
Connecting to the car for the second time (and all other tries) pop ups the info at N2 screen that AA is connected to the car and navigation is running. At first I thought it was Google Maps error as it was the application auto- started after connection so I tried to use AA-Tweaker to keep the home screen of AA after connection and not starting any navigation app. Unfortunately, AA-Tweaker (version 4.0.2) was crashing every time.
Never mined I checked that not only Google Maps (or Waze as a default navigation) didn't produced any screen but the same applied to the audio app (Google Podcast) as I had physical buttons on the infotainment joystick (Renault).
Therefore, I'm sure it's an issue of AA itself.
Thanks for taking the time.
I am using a galaxy S22 with andoid 13, and my app is using SDK 21 (I think...).
I have a bluetooth device of type HC-05 that is in pairing mode. I have verified that it operates as a bluetooth slave.
I have written a app using AndroidStudio to scan for devices, and it works pretty well: I can detect my bluetooth headset, a TV, etc. but somehow the scan result callback is not invoked for that device (HC-05).
I have tried different scan modes to no avail - my phone sees the device and can pair with it (when scanning via the bluetooth connectivity page) as can my PC but somehow the app cannot. I have all the permissions granted to the app I think - including Location for LE scans - but again, this does not help; device not detected.
I have noticed that _sometimes_ the device may be identified initially as a generic "Android Bluedroid" device which is displayed instead of its name - is that a factor in detection?
Any ideas what I am missing?
Thanks in advance.
After seeing the success of getting the lenovo smart clock cracked open, I wanted to do something similar to my Xiaomi Mi Smart Clock, because it's a very similar device. Some of the exploit works, but some of it doesn't, and I've reached a dead end so thought someone else might have some ideas...
- Using the send feedback / privacy policy workaround, I can break out to webview and can use the browser (but there's no keyboard of course)
- I can get to 3rd party app stores but there's no downloading from webview (clicking on direct links just does nothing). Tested on a few different sites, so it's not specific to f-droid
- I've been able to get to other settings, by going to Accessibility global options, text to speech settings, and pasting items into the settings search.
- Settings have allowed me to unlock developer options, unlock bootloader, and enable usb debugging.
- The data pins on the micro USB port are connected, the device enumerates on Linux / Windows as "X04G"
- With usb debugging turned on, adb doesn't ever see any device connected. Tested on chromebook, Windows, Xubuntu.
- holding down a combination of mic toggle and volume on power on allows access to the recovery menu, including fastboot
- in recovery the device enumerates as an mtk fastboot device
- can't find any drivers (on windows) to do anything from stock recovery or fastboot... Nor can I do anything on Linux. But I'm not experienced with android modding and development, so this is my best bet so far. TWRP??
Other areas I've explored -
- no Bluetooth pairing, Bluetooth causes settings to crash
- crashing Bluetooth deliberately lets me launch the full settings app rather than just searching for individual entries - that's how I was able to get developer options turned on.
- From the full settings app, the device reports running on android 10 and has 1gb ram / 4gb storage
- USB OTG seems to be set to charge only, and attempting to access the usb settings also crashes settings
- Because of that, no wired keyboard and no usb mass storage works
- storage app allows navigation of the Filesystem, but there's not very much there
- a few other apps include a Bluetooth mesh app, stock music app, and contacts
- there doesn't seem to be any way to get into the device remotely, no ftp / remote adb - no wireless adb in developer settings because it's android 10
- I can manually turn on wireless tethering and connect to the device
- when tethered running ports are DNS, 8008, 8009, 8012, 8443, 9000, 10001 but I don't know if any of them are exploitable
Does anyone have any ideas as to how I might download or drop a file onto this darn thing? I feel like it's so close, but it's definitely a bit more locked down than the lenovo smart clock.
Hello, I am also interested in this matter
it doesn't open the browser for me, but I can pair via bluetooth, but I can't send a file
windows sees the watch as an mtp device but cannot do anything with it
and adb doesn't work :c
I have also been trying to get apps onto this device, but there is seemingly no way to download/get files into the device's memory. I have also tried everything you have listed, but to no avail.
You can get to bluetooth settings by searching it up, but the device is detected as a speaker by other devices, so no files can be sent.
I have also tried Wi-Fi Direct, I can connect to the clock, but sending files fails.
I will be still trying, as I've already gotten pretty far, but for now i'm still not able to install any apps.