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Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Wow. Am I the only one on here who's having this problem?? Lucky me, I guess... :S
Anyway, I just tried connecting to a public and open wifi network here in SF, but my Kaiser still wouldn't connect. Guess that confirms it: my WiFi adapter is defective.
Anyone know if I can get it replaced in a different store from where I purchased it, and what I need to take (hope it's just the phone)?
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Wow. Am I the only one on here who's having this problem?? Lucky me, I guess... :S
Anyway, I just tried connecting to a public and open wifi network here in SF, but my Kaiser still wouldn't connect. Guess that confirms it: my WiFi adapter is defective.
Anyone know if I can get it replaced in a different store from where I purchased it, and what I need to take (hope it's just the phone)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
just tried my wifi on the tilt ... works fine out of the box (to my home secured wireless network)
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is what I did. Start->settings->connections tab->WiFI. Now you should see your routers name there with the signal bar next to it. Tap AND Hold the name, then go to settings or edit(I forget), then click NEXT, uncheck the box that says "the key is automatically provided"(thats for open access routers/networks that dont require codes). Then type in your code & make sure you specify what key # it is. click next and youre done. You should be able to connect.
silly question here. is your router broadcasting 802.11b or g? the wifi won't connect to anything else.
You might also check your AP to see if it's not broadcasting its SSID to the world (a common security setting). I couldn't connect until I enabled broadcast on my AP, set the network up, and then went back and disabled SSID broadcast.
Why in the hell this is a problem in the first place is beyond me, but this is the third smartphone/PDA with wireless that I've had to do that for. And every time, once the device found the network once, it never had a problem finding it again.
Believe me. I tried everything in the WiFi settings page. I edited the settings, removed them and added them again, and like I said before I even went and changed my security settings on my router (which to answer your question, zeta, it broadcasts in: n, g, and b. Same router worked with my Apache/XV6700).
Anyway, I stopped by the store where I bought it today and they told me that as far as he can tell, that does qualify for a replacement. The problem is they don't have any in stock to replace it with, and he has no idea when they'll be getting more in. They only received 2 on launch day, and I bought one of those. He did mention that I can get it replaced at any store, however, but they all might be in the same boat.
Guess I'll try another store tomorrow, but if not I guess I'll have to go through AT&T's tech support (don't like the sound of that) and get it replaced through them. So I guess this means I might have a few days to mess around with the phone and even try some risky thangs.
So if any of you developers and hackers, er, I mean tweakers need some1 to test something, I can be that guinea pig (for a while at least)... Just give me a shout.
To troubleshoot your wireless connection always try ruling out as many other factors as possible. So put your router to NO security (temporarily ofcourse) and have it broadcast 802.11g. Also make sure you add the mac address of your device to the list in your router, if it uses mac address filtering. Try connecting to it with a laptop and see if that goes fine. Work systematically...
PerfAlbion said:
You might also check your AP to see if it's not broadcasting its SSID to the world (a common security setting). I couldn't connect until I enabled broadcast on my AP, set the network up, and then went back and disabled SSID broadcast.
Why in the hell this is a problem in the first place is beyond me, but this is the third smartphone/PDA with wireless that I've had to do that for. And every time, once the device found the network once, it never had a problem finding it again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a similar Problem, your solution works partly for me:
As soon as I enable the AP to broadcast it's ID, Kaiser connects.
But as soon as the ID is hidden, it does not connect.
Weird.
Is it a security problem if the ID is broadcasted, provided I use WPA2-PSK/AES?
Thanks
V
No. Hiding the SSID really only protects you from folks that are wandering around without any tools. Open up a more fully featured scanner, and it'll pull the SSID out of the air. The encryption is much, much more important.
And I also wouldn't bother with MAC filtering. Changing the MAC address is usually a software setting, so it's not all that much additional security. WPA/WPA2 are much better solutions.
Yeah, the hidden SSID is not an issue with me, since I don't mind broadcasting it at home. Not too paranoid about it. If someone *really* wanted to sniff and break into my network, they could. Don't do much important and highly confidential stuff at home anyway.
Plus, like Perf mentioned, there's software out there, even for PocketPCs, that will find so-called "hidden" SSIDs. Thanks for your suggestions, anyway.
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Yeah, the hidden SSID is not an issue with me, since I don't mind broadcasting it at home. Not too paranoid about it. If someone *really* wanted to sniff and break into my network, they could. Don't do much important and highly confidential stuff at home anyway.
Plus, like Perf mentioned, there's software out there, even for PocketPCs, that will find so-called "hidden" SSIDs. Thanks for your suggestions, anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i had no issue connecting to my wrt54g running DD-WRT v23 SP2 with my SSID hidden with WEP enabled. when setting up a new connection, i just entered the name of the connection and then the WEP hex, and it connected flawlessly. Have fun hacking your phone until you can swap?
Mine is not working either. I exchanged the phone and found out that I was the 3rd person with the same problem.
BiPolarXpress said:
Mine is not working either. I exchanged the phone and found out that I was the 3rd person with the same problem.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Glad to hear, I'm not the only one.
I exchanged my phone this morning, and I just tried connecting to my wireless network and guess what??
I'm getting the SAME RESULTS.
Now, before anyone goes and tells me that my router is the problem or that it's user error, then tell me: why does my laptop, PS3 and my Wii connect just fine?? I even changed the SSID and WPA key last night and they all connected w/o a problem as well. All except my freaking Tilt.
Can be it a coincidence that I got 2 bad phones? I don't know if I should call the store and tell them to hold up on sending the other phone to HTC.
Which reminds me, I probably should try calling HTC today, but I doubt they'll be much help...
I don't think you're nuts, and I doubt you got two bad phones. But if you want to double-check, take the phone to your local Starbucks or other shop with WiFi and see if it can detect that AP.
But at this point, I'd be inclined to look for a firmware upgrade for your AP. I could be that it's not supporting long or short preambles right (a problem for some devices in the past), doesn't like seeing more than XXX different devices, or just doesn't like your phone much.
Either way, I'm smelling an issue with your AP. I had a US Robotics AP/Router that drove me nuts because it would spontaneously reboot after a random period any time an IPSec VPN was present.
try setting the power mode on best performance. when i do that i stay connected to wifi.
I took both my old I730 and my tilt to the coffee shop before I returned my first tilt. I was able to connect my I730 at the coffee shop and home, but couldn't connect the tilt at either place. I also tried some open AP's in my neighborhood that I have been able to connect to in the past with the same results. Picky phone or bad wifi radios maybe.
Jesus... like the bloke said:
1) Turn off wpa and see if it will connect (it will unless you have set your N router to only use "n") If it won't then send it back.
2) If it does... then turn on WEP 128bit on your router... and use that instead.
WM devices have always had problems with WPA...
Hi all.
I have tried my HTC TyTN II with one Wifi LinkSys WAG54GS Router using WPA and not hidding the SSID and works fine, no problem at all.
Test with one AP from DLink at the office, using hidden SSID and WEP 64 and 128 Bits and no problem at all, works as fine as my LinkSys.
I'm going to try hidde the SSID at home with WPA and WPA2 and post the results later to know if there is a common issue with Kaiser or some freaky coincidence.
Regards.
d0ubl3_d1zzl3 said:
Hello Everyone,
I'm looking for either a confirmation that my my WLAN is bad, or suggestions on other things I should try before taking it back in for replacement.
Searching and browsing through the forums I didn't see anyone mention any of the problems I'm having so I'm assuming I'm the only one (or one of very few) that bought a Kaiser with a defective Wifi radio.
Here's the symptoms:
I tried connecting to my wireless connection at home maybe a day or two after I bought my Tilt (last Friday). My home connection is draft 802.11n with WPA2-PSK security.
So I enable the WLAN and it detects my Wifi network and it asks for the key. I input it and then it tries to connect, but... it never does. I tried it a few times consecutively and it still didn't work (I get the animating arrows and the 'halo' around the beacon, but then it goes away, and it just keeps doing that). Now, I've seen this before with on my XV6700 with a beta ROM of WM6, but I know well HTC and AT&T wouldn't release something with broken WPA/2 support. At least HTC, I thought...
So I unlocked my Tilt and loaded the factory Kaiser ROM I downloaded from here, and well, WPA2 didn't work on it either. Weird, I thought, so I searched forums and no one mentioned any of this. So I changed my security settings on my network to WPA-PSK (from WPA2) and that made no difference at all... I don't want to bore y'all with everything else I tried, but to sum it up, I then tried a WPA fix I found on PPCGeeks, but that just ended up making my WLAN staying disabled, so I unintalled that and I decided I would try it with a WEP or Open wireless network.
Well, this morning I did just that and even when I try to connect to a wireless connection with WEP, I get the same behavior when I tried this at home with WPA. I've triple checked the WEP key, and I know it's right.
I haven't tried it on an Open network yet, but I'm assuming I'm going to get the same results. I'll have to find a wireless router no one's connected to so that I can try this out, but it might take me a while. Should I even waste anymore time on this? Anyone else here having (or had) the same problem?
I might start loading the AT&T ROM on this soon so I can take it back, but if any of you have any suggestions, I'm all ears.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I found that I couldn't get my Kaiser to connect to my WPA encrypted LAN - open access and WEP (64 and 128 bit) work fine.
Not sure what the problem is - maybe some incompatibility between the Kaiser and my Netgear router. I've downgraded the security to 128bit WEP for the time being but I'm hoping that there's a fix soon.
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
Edit: problem may be BN NC. See last paragraph
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Intermittent Wifi Connection:
This is the issue where your Nook connects to Wifi and then after a few minutes the connection goes away. Typically the NC shows wifi as connected or perhaps connected and testing.
There are five variables that can cause intermittent wifi connections:
-your router
-wifi type 802.11b/g/n
-encrytpion
-wifi frequency 2.4ghz/5ghz
-NC ROM
-NC operating system
In many cases, this is due to 802.11n wifi. A digression: Wifi comes in manner flavors; 802.11b, the first standard; 802.11g, the second; 802.11n the latest standard. These flavors have to do with the physical wireless router.
In addition to the hardware, there are variations in encryption of the wifi signal: WEP, WPA, WPA2 with AES or TKIP. WPA2 with AES is the most secure. Look it up on Wiki for more details. And of course the
OS the NC is running.
In many cases, the NC will NOT connect reliably with 802.11n. I have a Dlink DIR-615 V2 wireless router and when set to 802.11n with WPA2 with AES, the NC connects but after a few minutes goes into a state of "testing connection". Setting the router to 802.11g only fixes the problem. An easy test is to go into Youtube and watch a long video. Most likely, half way through, you will loose the connection.
At work, we have a high end multi-access point Meru networking running unencrypted wifi 802.11n and I have this problem. So this may indicate a driver problem with the NC.
The Fix:
Go into your router's wireless. Select manual setup and find 802.11 mode or something to that effect. On my router, I have a choice of "mixed 802.11n, g, b", "802.11n only", "802.11g" only. Selecting 802.11g only with WPA2/AES fixes it for me.
Interestingly the NETGEAR WNR3500L-100NAS 802.11b/g/n seem to operate reliablely with the NC using 802.11n.
One post indicates that settting encryption to TKIP also fixes the problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...72&postcount=6
However, using TKIP opens up a hole for hackers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempora...grity_Protocol
One solution on the nookboards and BN forum also suggested turning off 802.11n
http://www.nookboards.com/forum/index.php?topic=5669.0
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...-Problem-quot/m-p/770856/highlight/true#M3295
If you are having problems, the following information will help in diagnosing the problem:
Router brand and model number: eg: Dlink DIR-615
802.11 mode: b, g, n?
SSID visible?
Encryption: no or if yes: WEP, WPA, WPA2 TKIP/AES\
NC Rom: 1.0.1 or 1.1
NC OS:
I will try to update this guide periodically. Moderators: feel free to delete this thread if it is redundant.
Edit:
BN has acknowledged there is a problem with certain routers. From my own experience, there are many more routers that are incompatible with the NC. My assessment is that it's a driver in the BN. I have a Gtablet running 2.2 with no problems.
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...ssed/m-p/1030918/message-uid/1030918#U1030918
From BN Administrator: "In general, wifi issues can continue to be fixed by following the troubleshooting guides posted in the FAQ and in other posts. We *are* continuing to investigate reported wifi issues with certain routers that have had issues reported. At this point, we’ve investigated the Belkin F5D8231-4 and found an issue introduced with Android 2.2. We have a fix that will be included in the next release, but do not have a workaround for users. We are also investigating other routers (including the DLink DL- 624 and Westell 327W), but do not currently have a fix for them.
Please continue to post here if you encounter further problems and NOOK_Engineer and I will work together to investigate further."
EDIT 9/7/2011: After I updated to BN1.3 and then rooted with, wifi connects perfectly with 802.11n both at home and work. Work wifi consists of multi-point 802.11n. Note that this is with Dalingren's froyo 9/1/11 kernel with the BN 1.3 source drop.
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
I like the idea of putting it all together as it took me awhile to figure it out.
FYI, my wireless modem is:
D-Link DIR-655
On WPA/WPA2 TKIP
Interestingly, I made a setting change to set the wireless mode to only n & g modes. This stopped my nook from getting any wireless till I changed back to n,g & b. Not exactly sure what this means other than it could a router specific issue but good to keep the info in one place considering it is hard to track.
necroscopev said:
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure of this but if it works with Rooted 1.1 but not Froyo 0.6.6, most likely a Froyo issue.
bonobomidwest said:
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi chip in the NC WL1271 supports only 2.4ghz. Interestingly the kernel reports the chip as WL1273 which does support 5ghz.
I don't think the original post regarding 802.11n being an issue is correct. We have two access points running 802.11n and have no issues with the Nook Color. I have them set up to operate 802.11n at 2.5 and 5 Ghz. I connect the NC to the 2.4 GHZ radio and use the 5 GHz for my laptops. I am using a Netgear WNDR 3700s.
@jerrykur - Well that explains that. I'm trying to sprint up the learning curve as fast as i can with this wonderful device... sometimes i miss things ;-)
@Zhousibo - I suggest you grab "wifi analyzer" from the market. It's an invaluable tool for tweaking your network. For instance, it lets you see which bands are cluttered and clashing. In my neighborhood everybody (i.e. about 20+ networks) is on the default channels 1 or 6. I can literally watch as one network pops up above the noise and drops out again. In exactly the same spot in the house we have a several dB stronger signal if we move the network to a clear channel. Also bear in mind that the encryption and frequency are two totally different issues. I would vary one at a time and look at what wifi analyzer is telling you - my guess is that only adjusting frequency will affect signal strength and signal drop outs. I would also start with the simplest working setup and add or remove optiosn one at a time, watching what happens to the signal. Once you have that problem fixed, then worry about authentication issues (i seriously doubt this is the problem, i've tried all combinations of authentication on my router and they all work - just go for the most secure!)
BTW1: in wifi analyzer you can view signals as a graph in time which will let you see signal drop outs (i.e. let's you watch what is coming into the machine), combined with fpga_guy's suggested method (watching you tube - so following what is coming out of the other end of the software, so to speak), will let you nail down where the glitch is - in the network or in the machine. Similarly you could ahve two devices whatching the same or different youtube sources, if they both fail at teh same time it is a network or even further down the pipe (e.g. ISP) issue.
BTW2: if you are using VOIP, then QoS in your VOIP box could be responsible for a lot of this depending on how your wired network is structured.
BTW3: I should have explained my motivation behind these posts - I just have not had any problems with dropped connection on the NC (other than all the problems with waking in rooted ecalir) on either G or N networks. I can pretty much move around town from rememebred netweork to remembered network and almost always be connected. I'm actually extremely impressed with how well networking DOES work on this machine, especially in Frroyo. BUT my home network is pretty complex and very busy (media center PC, streaming to at least one device most of the time, multiple PC's wireless printer, wired NAS, etc) so has had a lot of fine tuning... So I'm doubly impressed at the lack of drop-outs given this deployment... hence my advice to eliminate network issues first.
Here is an update on my testing of the NC with various routers. My ipod touch, HP DV1000 laptop running Windows XP connects to every router listed without problems. This indicates either a chip or more likely an implementation problem with BN's driver to the TI wifi chip.
NC (ROM 1.1 with Auto-nooter 3.0.0) works with:
Netgear WNR3500L running 802.11n with DD-WRT WPA2/PSK
DLINk DIR615 runnign 802.11g with WPA2/PSK
Work wireless running 802.11g (router unknown)
NC does NOT work with
Sites with hidden SSID
DLINK DIR615 running 802.11n
Sites using WEP with 128bit encryption
NC connects on boot with sites using WEP 64b encryption - FC after resuming from sleep.
@bonobomidwest
My only thinking is that the NC wifi driver is not as robust with the settings (maybe it is settings, firmware, hardware, not sure).
Interestingly, I spent a bit of time away from my home network which is where I have had no problems since I made the original change (FYI, I recently upgraded from Autonooter 1.1, to Nook Froyo 0.6.7 to NF 0.6.8 and have been stable since the change). I stayed at my folks for a week as am living overseas and they have a Belkin router (can't remember model but I gave them this and was pretty good for it's time). I had issues where the wifi had problems connecting after the screen had timed out so did not use the NC as much as I wanted. I also had problems with the wifi on Galaxy S on this network even though I changed the settings.
I haven't done a scan where I am living now but it should be more than where my folks are due to living in an apartment as opposed to my folks house.
I'm at the stage where my network is not 'broke' so not actively looking to fix it but all my devices NC, Galaxy S, PS3, PSP, etc, are all working now - only the NC has had the most problems with connecting to wifi but have been resolved.
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Any new ROMs help fix WPA2 connectivity problems?
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Get the right router...
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Or maybe the NC?
jdefgts said:
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.. no doubt the right router will work with NC. But at home and at work the NC is the only device having problems. I have no luck in convincing my company to swap out 45 routers so my NC can work
waylo said:
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar issues. I can't use the internet reliably on my Nook Color or my EVO on my home router unless I'm running WPA+TKIP. I would prefer not to have my router setup this way though because of the security concerns and it not being much harder than WEP to crack.
Guess I'll just stick with WPA2+AES and look for another solution...
just to share some experience that hapenned to me:
In France we have an Internet box (wich is basically a router) that deserve 2 wireless network. One public shared with all user from the same Internet provider and one private for home.
At first my nook only saw the public one (wich is not really fast). The private one was not visible (or just flash in network tools on nook).
After some investigation i change the Wifi canal (from 10 to "automatic"). After that, no to see it and connect (if you forget the nook "special sleep policy")
soobaerodude said:
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
soobaerodude said:
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give an update after you exchange your NC. I suspect is the wifi chip drivers and not a bad NC.
fpga_guy said:
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont experience any of these problems where ever i go
i have been able to connect into every coffee shop, book store, and school campus(i go to 3 different schools) plus i can hold a wifi connection at home
ill give you my router settings because it may have something to do with it
Router brand and model number: eg: NETGEAR : unknown
802.11 mode: b,g ,n
SSID visible: yes
Encryption: no or if yes: yes WPA2
NC Rom: HC preview 4
NC OS: 3.0
and my droid x works as well with the WPA/WPA2 security
I bought my chromecast the day it came out. Since I have gotten it I have had nothing but problems with it.
First, getting it to connect to my WiFi was a complete pain in the ass. It took me 2+ hours and my final solution was to disable NAT, connect the chromecast, then re-enable NAT. So, fine. I got it to connect and it kind of worked.
~20% of the time it works flawlessly.
Now, the other 80% of the time it will say ready to connect and say it is connected to my home WiFi but the chromecast app either says there are no devices or there is a device that needs to be setup. Also, if I manage to get it to work and start playing a movie on netflix, I often lose the control over it during the course of the movie and the only way to stop it from playing is to unplug the dongle.
Has anyone else had this awful of an experience? What would be the cause? I am contemplating going and buying a new router (mine is a modem/wireless router for centurylink MN: C1000a).
athorax said:
~20% of the time it works flawlessly.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Calls to mind the Anchorman quote: "60% of the time, it works every time."
My first thought is that your AP restricts client-to-client communication, resulting in difficulty communicating between your phone and the Chromecast. However, that doesn't explain the NAT issue you had.
I had some of the same issues with losing controls and not being able to pause or stop a movie/video but the Remote Cast app from the market helped with the loosing controls part. As far as the chromecast losing the network connection unfortunately I ended up hooking up a cheap belkin router in addition to my good router and it works with the belkin just fine without loosing connection.
Sent from my Nexus 4 using xda app-developers app
athorax said:
I bought my chromecast the day it came out. Since I have gotten it I have had nothing but problems with it.
First, getting it to connect to my WiFi was a complete pain in the ass. It took me 2+ hours and my final solution was to disable NAT, connect the chromecast, then re-enable NAT. So, fine. I got it to connect and it kind of worked.
~20% of the time it works flawlessly.
Now, the other 80% of the time it will say ready to connect and say it is connected to my home WiFi but the chromecast app either says there are no devices or there is a device that needs to be setup. Also, if I manage to get it to work and start playing a movie on netflix, I often lose the control over it during the course of the movie and the only way to stop it from playing is to unplug the dongle.
Has anyone else had this awful of an experience? What would be the cause? I am contemplating going and buying a new router (mine is a modem/wireless router for centurylink MN: C1000a).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Having similar issues. Using Samsung LED TV. Setup seemed ok, but 'casting' anything from my phone is slow and tediously painful, it even seems to make the apps on the phone slower to respond than if they are *not* casting, i.e. Netflix loads quickly and transitions normally, but when I attempt to "cast" the phone app seems to act slow and the TV seems to take almost a full minute to catch up to what I selected from the phone, if at all.
I have a brand new router; My samsung TV is wifi enabled, I just don't use it much. The thought occurs to me that perhaps there is wifi RF interference so I may attempt to disable the samsung's wifi feature tomorrow and see if the Chromecast behaves more responsively.
I had troubles connecting to my Verizon FIOS Actiontec router. But I learned years ago not to fool with that router as it makes other things worse. So, I've had a separate Wifi hotspot for years (just another router with the router stuff turned off) and my Chromecasts (I have 4 of them) work just fine with that. If I were you I'd go to Fry's, or equivalent, and buy a cheap router and set it next to your existing one. Routers go for as cheap as $14.99. The one I use cost about $25. Your life will be much easier.
My experience has been flawless using the Chromecast in two different locations. Both locations have routers and wireless AP's that run either DD-WRT or Tomato however. There doesn't appear to be anything inherently wrong with the Chromecast hardware overall (but you might have a dud unit), but the reliability of it obviously depends on your wireless AP and router equipment.
What equipment are you using for your wireless AP and router?
Haven't had any issues with mine or my friend's. Two different routers, but both setup and run perfectly. Might be a router specific issue.
BrianAllred said:
Haven't had any issues with mine or my friend's. Two different routers, but both setup and run perfectly. Might be a router specific issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine has been flawless. It set up in seconds and works perfectly.
I have been casting a bunch of YouTube and netflix with no issue.
I've got about the same experience. Turns out as soon as I start casting my Wifi network performance is reduced to rubble and the Netflix & Youtube apps on my phone freeze up. Without casting pings to the (Asus RT-N66U) router is around 5ms. After casting the pings are all over the place (200ms - 1sec) with lots of dropped packets.
I have 3 out of 4 signal bars on the Chromecast, but the problem appears to be reduced if I bring it closer to the router. Almost seems like a HW problem.
I'm using Shibby's Tomato rev 124 on the router btw.
athorax said:
I bought my chromecast the day it came out. Since I have gotten it I have had nothing but problems with it.
First, getting it to connect to my WiFi was a complete pain in the ass. It took me 2+ hours and my final solution was to disable NAT, connect the chromecast, then re-enable NAT. So, fine. I got it to connect and it kind of worked.
~20% of the time it works flawlessly.
Now, the other 80% of the time it will say ready to connect and say it is connected to my home WiFi but the chromecast app either says there are no devices or there is a device that needs to be setup. Also, if I manage to get it to work and start playing a movie on netflix, I often lose the control over it during the course of the movie and the only way to stop it from playing is to unplug the dongle.
Has anyone else had this awful of an experience? What would be the cause? I am contemplating going and buying a new router (mine is a modem/wireless router for centurylink MN: C1000a).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
o2blom said:
I've got about the same experience. Turns out as soon as I start casting my Wifi network performance is reduced to rubble and the Netflix & Youtube apps on my phone freeze up. Without casting pings to the (Asus RT-N66U) router is around 5ms. After casting the pings are all over the place (200ms - 1sec) with lots of dropped packets.
I have 3 out of 4 signal bars on the Chromecast, but the problem appears to be reduced if I bring it closer to the router. Almost seems like a HW problem.
I'm using Shibby's Tomato rev 124 on the router btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Google has it on their router page but sounds like you're not running the stock firmware, so could be any number of things.
First thing I'd check is UPnP and multicast. If either are blocked/disabled it will cause trouble.
bhiga said:
Google has it on their router page but sounds like you're not running the stock firmware, so could be any number of things.
First thing I'd check is UPnP and multicast. If either are blocked/disabled it will cause trouble.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I run a slightly older netgear router with tomato firmware and everything plays fine... I keep UPnP off because (at least on my router's model) I was told it can cause problems.
o2blom said:
I've got about the same experience. Turns out as soon as I start casting my Wifi network performance is reduced to rubble and the Netflix & Youtube apps on my phone freeze up. Without casting pings to the (Asus RT-N66U) router is around 5ms. After casting the pings are all over the place (200ms - 1sec) with lots of dropped packets.
I have 3 out of 4 signal bars on the Chromecast, but the problem appears to be reduced if I bring it closer to the router. Almost seems like a HW problem.
I'm using Shibby's Tomato rev 124 on the router btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try turning UPnP off on your router page, as well as turning off Wireless Isolation
Apk07 said:
I run a slightly older netgear router with tomato firmware and everything plays fine... I keep UPnP off because (at least on my router's model) I was told it can cause problems
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah UPnP really depends. If it works, leave it. If it doesn't, it's worth toggling to see if it makes a difference.
Mine works flawlessly as long as the wireless signal is good. Setup was an snap (have an ATT Uverse/2-Wire router). All I had to do was put in the password and it connected on 1st try.
Used it the other night in the kitchen and I kept losing controls and it kept dropping out before I remembered that the kitchen TV is in a bad spot for wireless. Moved it to another TV and it was rock solid again.
Just bought mine today, setup and use work great. The only thing is no fullscreen casting (the experimental one) and some frame dropping not using it as it was intended (casting a remote desktop tab for fullscreen games).
It may solve some router issues to include an extender or additional bridged router that has it's own SSID. Just in case it's a compatibility issue. It might help to have a clean slate to troubleshoot with.
I had a number of issues originally when first using it, the setup was very hit or miss (kept failing) and I had huge reception issues.
Later Google OTA updates appear to have resolved the setup issues I had on earlier builds and I ended up solving my reception issues by purchasing an HDMI extension cable and migrating my chromecast out of my home theatre cabinet where it was getting impaired wifi signal.
oarking said:
Just bought mine today, setup and use work great. The only thing is no fullscreen casting (the experimental one) and some frame dropping not using it as it was intended (casting a remote desktop tab for fullscreen games).
It may solve some router issues to include an extender or additional bridged router that has it's own SSID. Just in case it's a compatibility issue. It might help to have a clean slate to troubleshoot with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, contrary to what Google might imply, Chromecast does not have to be on the same wireless network as your other wireless devices. As long as they're bridged, it works fine. That's how Chromecast can be on 2.4 GHz WiFi while my phone is on 5 GHz WiFi, and my computer is wired.
The only hard requirement is that for setup, you need a supported device with 2.4 GHz 802.11b, 802.11g, or 802.11n wireless because it needs to connect to the Chromecast's internal access point that is available during setup.
I have the same router just running merlin instead of tomato. No issues with latency.
I did try it at a friends house and they had some netgear router and latency went through the roof for everyone. Unsure exactly what happened but made the entire wifi network lag horribly.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
---------- Post added at 06:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:13 AM ----------
rans0m00 said:
I have the same router just running merlin instead of tomato. No issues with latency. I am running 3 rt-n66u's though... 1 as a router and 2 ap's... Maybe the load was spread out enough to not bog down one of the boxes?
I did try it at a friends house and they had some netgear router and latency went through the roof for everyone. Unsure exactly what happened but made the entire wifi network lag horribly.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
I use an ASUS RT-N16 w/dd-wrt as my house router. I routinely have 4 devices on its wireless. This is the scenario (which has only just started happening recently):
my wife will connect her S5 to the WiFi at home
the S5 will report connected
every other device on the WiFi that is handy (haven't checked if it happens to my Roku) will be kicked off the WiFi
the S5 will be disconnected
I will have to manually reconnect my other devices, which report an "authentication issue"
The other devices in question are: my Optimus G, my Shield Tablet, our Acer Win8 laptop. Signal strength is not an issue. I have tried:
setting the S5's WiFi connection to our router to a static address
resetting the router to factory default
changed the channel on the router's WiFi
disabling the router's ACK timing
changed the router's WiFi mode to NG-Mixed
Has anyone ever encountered anything like this? Definitely one of the oddest issues I've ever had the "pleasure" of dealing with.
t-readyroc said:
I use an ASUS RT-N16 w/dd-wrt as my house router. I routinely have 4 devices on its wireless. This is the scenario (which has only just started happening recently):
my wife will connect her S5 to the WiFi at home
the S5 will report connected
every other device on the WiFi that is handy (haven't checked if it happens to my Roku) will be kicked off the WiFi
the S5 will be disconnected
I will have to manually reconnect my other devices, which report an "authentication issue"
The other devices in question are: my Optimus G, my Shield Tablet, our Acer Win8 laptop. Signal strength is not an issue. I have tried:
setting the S5's WiFi connection to our router to a static address
resetting the router to factory default
changed the channel on the router's WiFi
disabling the router's ACK timing
changed the router's WiFi mode to NG-Mixed
Has anyone ever encountered anything like this? Definitely one of the oddest issues I've ever had the "pleasure" of dealing with.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is weird. I have all sorts of stuff connecting to my WiFi. I use a WD router that has worked extremely well. I would suspect something wrong with the router.
Sometimes routers go bad like any other computer part. Do you have another router to test with your setup?
Looked at some of the reviews of your model and some people had major problems. It has a two year warranty, perhaps get an RMA if still time left. Of course flash it back to stock.
I got the suggestion from elsewhere to create a guest network for her. DD-WRT's got the ability to create a fully isolated guest network, but I only had to create a new wireless vlan for her (bridged, even) & she's happily connected on her own little space (& I'm still happily connected on mine).
More of a workaround than a solution, but hey...
Nicely done.
Update!
My wife took her S5 w/her down to a girls' weekend getaway, & she had to turn off her WiFi while she was at the house because, you guessed it, she kept kicking every other client off of the network!
I'm happy at home w/her on a separate WLAN, but I really do wonder wtf's going on w/her phone...
I've been getting a slow to fair connection on Steam Link, which really bothers me. I have 1GBPS WiFi from Xfinity with 40MBPS upload speed, both of which should allow me to connect to my computer very well. My computer is hardwired via ethernet, so that's not a problem, however Steam Link never labels my connection "Good." I have heard that this is the result of the WiFi on board Android opting to pick 2.4Ghz, and I've been looking to disable it. I couldn't get the package to install on Fox's Magisk for the 2.4Ghz WiFi disabler add on, so I searched around the forums and checked both my settings, as well as developer options. I even looked in data/misc/wifi, but there wasn't anything there I could tinker with to help with this. I did turn WiFi safe mode on in hopes to improve the stability of my device's WiFi, but this is as far as I've gotten.
Does anyone have suggestions for disabling 2.4Ghz or otherwise increasing my WiFi speed on here? I would really like not to have to seperate the bands manually, as last time that caused a host of problems with other people's devices in my household.
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
roirraW edor ehT said:
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I mean, the two seperate SSID's is a valid solution, just one I'm not currently willing to use.
Here's something strange that made me believe that it's an Android issue. I previously used Steam Link on an IPad and got a good connection, I then moved over to Android and don't. It's very bizarre. I also can't backspace in Chrome Remote Desktop on Android for some reason. Also bizarre.
I do totally want a new router, but I'm tapped out of money for the foreseeable future anyway. We have the most up to date Xfinity router though, which I think is from 2018 or some such thing, to its credit, the internet almost never disconnects, and when it does, it fixes itself within around 60 seconds. Previous xfinity routers would disconnect frequently, and would require a reset to get working again.
Easiest is to have two different SSID's and different password for each. That way your galaxy tab will only connect to 5GHz and won't use 2.4GHz as long you don't connect to it with password for it.
Since if you name 2.4GHz and 5GHz same SSID then it will connect to 2.4GHz or 5GHz and keep switching since both have same SSID and password.