Just recently started using a Nexus 5x as my main phone and am trying to figure this out. Sorry if my question seems ignorant but I have yet to find a clear answer to this exact question.
Most of my chargers are rated to support 5v 3a output, but it appears as though the limiting factor is the 56k ohm resistor in proper USB A to C cables. It also looks like some cables do not have this resistor, which means they will try pulling 3a, which is dangerous for chargers that are not rated for 3a.
Assuming I accept the risk of potentially damaging the charger in question (which is supposed to output 3a though), would a cable without that resistor allow me to Rapid Charge off of my existing 3a chargers, assuming I only use it with chargers labeled 3a? Or would I risk potential damage to my phone?
I think the real question here is; are you insane? Why do resistors even exist I wonder
your battery explose, why do you want do that?! your battery will goint to ****ing hell
Might even burn up the connector at the phone end too if it isn't rated for the current. An that could burn up the connector in your phone at the same time.
Disregard the previous people. You won't blow up your phone, or destroy your charger. You may ruin the cable itself, but if you know what you're doing, and you know the risks, it is doable (albeit not recommended), and here's why:
These phones use a USB-C connector that's rated for up to 3A. The included charger and USB-C cable are also rated for 3A, so everything charges at 3A.
I regularly use a USB-A -> USB-C cable that's rated for 2.4A with a USB-A charger than can do 2.4A, and it charges at 2.4A. Easy.
If you have a charger than can go to 3A, a phone that can do 3A, but a cable that can only do 2.4A, it will charge at 2.4A. This is because of the safety built into the cable to keep it from pulling more draw than it's rated for. If you remove this safety, it will pull 3A, but the cable itself will get hot and possibly melt (as it's drawing 25% more than it was designed for, obvi).
Can they actually melt? Yes. One time I accidentally used a 22awg power cord (designed for a 30W laptop charger) on a 500W bitcoin GPU PSU, and it charred the insulation, scarred the wooden counter it was on, and almost lit our entire office on fire. I would not recommend trying this yourself.
Related
I am hesitant to buy something like this since I have read that the USB Micro on the NC is non-standard.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Barnes-and-...?pt=US_Tablet_Accessories&hash=item19c71f2149
You're smart to worry about these. This one is a simple microUSB cable, not the Nook Color compatible cable which has a longer tip. It will still allow you to transfer data and trickle charge but because of the shorter tip it will not allow a quick charge.
The part that is also important is the plug/brick you plug this cable into. You have to make sure it outputs 1.9 amps so that it is capable of quick charging your Nook Color if you have the correct cable to use. Most usb plug/bricks (like the ones for your phones) will only output about a quarter or maybe half of that. Some Apple iPad/iPhone usb plug/bricks will put out more though.
sjmoreno is right, be wary on these. It shows it is shipping from the inside the United States, but that doesn't mean much as they buy these in bulk from China at a lower price and raise it a bit here. I have ordered a few of these micro USB cables from china eBay listings with varying luck. Some will actually fit, and others won't - some charge REALLY slow and I actually had one that melted on me because it was pulling too much current.
Hey,
If you are still under warrantly, you can call B&N or chat with them on the website and get a new cable, adaptor or a power kit with little or no trouble. Just tell them your current one is not working. You can also go to a Barnes and Noble store and speak to one of the nook guys and you can get a free one there too.
sjmoreno said:
You're smart to worry about these. This one is a simple microUSB cable, not the Nook Color compatible cable which has a longer tip. It will still allow you to transfer data and trickle charge but because of the shorter tip it will not allow a quick charge.
The part that is also important is the plug/brick you plug this cable into. You have to make sure it outputs 1.9 amps so that it is capable of quick charging your Nook Color if you have the correct cable to use. Most usb plug/bricks (like the ones for your phones) will only output about a quarter or maybe half of that. Some Apple iPad/iPhone usb plug/bricks will put out more though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Chargers (wall or vehicle) made for Apple products will only charge at the slower rate. The NC looks at the resistance on the USB data lines to see if it should charge at the fast rate. The resistance set on chargers for Apple products is different than for the NC. The only chargers I've come across for the NC that charge at the higher rate are those made by B&N. Other chargers can be modified to work, but that's a different topic.
wrong...
mrmark93 said:
Chargers (wall or vehicle) made for Apple products will only charge at the slower rate. The NC looks at the resistance on the USB data lines to see if it should charge at the fast rate. The resistance set on chargers for Apple products is different than for the NC. The only chargers I've come across for the NC that charge at the higher rate are those made by B&N. Other chargers can be modified to work, but that's a different topic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow, you actually sound like you know what you're talking about. (I kid... I kid...)
Here's a photo of my Apple USB plug which I've highlighted puts out 2.1A. I could use this plug with the official B&N Nook Color cable and it will get the quick charge since the extra length of the tip on the B&N NC cable will allow it to reach the 12 pins that are further inside the Nook's outlet. Although I wouldn't do it since it could (maybe, might, don't want to chance it) send too much current to the battery and possibly damage it or over-heat it.
I also have a Motorola usb plug for my Droid X and Atrix phones but that only puts out 850 mA (.85 Amps) which could trickle charge regardless of the cable I use.
Hope this explained it well enough.
sjmoreno said:
Wow, you actually sound like you know what you're talking about. (I kid... I kid...)
Here's a photo of my Apple USB plug which I've highlighted puts out 2.1A. I could use this plug with the official B&N Nook Color cable and it will get the quick charge since the extra length of the tip on the B&N NC cable will allow it to reach the 12 pins that are further inside the Nook's outlet. Although I wouldn't do it since it could (maybe, might, don't want to chance it) send too much current to the battery and possibly damage it or over-heat it.
I also have a Motorola usb plug for my Droid X and Atrix phones but that only puts out 850 mA (.85 Amps) which could trickle charge regardless of the cable I use.
Hope this explained it well enough.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
right back at ya!
Your Apple unit is rated at 2.1A, but will only 'put out' whatever the NC draws from it, up to a theoretical 2.1A (I never measured over ~1850mA during any of my testing). Have you measured the charge rate on your NC? How? Did you load the battery monitor widget, does it report 'AC Charge' with the Apple charger? Are you using the Nook Tweeks app and forcing the fast charge mode? Just curious.
You made some other comments that are misleading, so I'll say my 'opinion' on those:
You could hook your NC to a 5V, 10,000+Amp power supply and not hurt it. The NC regulates the rate of charge with an on-board charge controller, and even if it didn't, it still wouldn't harm the battery. USB is 5V by specification. Apply 5V to a battery currently holding a charge of less than 5V and it will be charged to 5V. When you first start charging, it will charge at the highest rate available (by supply restraint, charge controller, wire size, connector conductivity) and as the battery becomes more & more charged, the charge rate (current flow) will drop, and when fully charged, the current drops to zero (0). The chargers are rated at what they can safely supply, 1A, 500mA, 2.1A, 850mA, etc without damaging the charger itself-some chargers are smart and limit the current, others will supply what they can and suffer damage if more current is drawn than the charger is rated for (ex: Harbor Freight unit with shorted data pins put out 1.1A (rated 0.5A) and started melting parts before I shut it off). I tested an 'Apple compatible' charger rated at 2.1A and it would only charge at around 600mA unless I shorted the data pins, then it put out whatever the NC would draw, up to a measured max of ~1850mA.
Oh, Snap!
mrmark93 said:
right back at ya!
Your Apple unit is rated at 2.1A, but will only 'put out' whatever the NC draws from it, up to a theoretical 2.1A (I never measured over ~1850mA during any of my testing). Have you measured the charge rate on your NC? How? Did you load the battery monitor widget, does it report 'AC Charge' with the Apple charger? Are you using the Nook Tweeks app and forcing the fast charge mode? Just curious.
You made some other comments that are misleading, so I'll say my 'opinion' on those:
You could hook your NC to a 5V, 10,000+Amp power supply and not hurt it. The NC regulates the rate of charge with an on-board charge controller, and even if it didn't, it still wouldn't harm the battery. USB is 5V by specification. Apply 5V to a battery currently holding a charge of less than 5V and it will be charged to 5V. When you first start charging, it will charge at the highest rate available (by supply restraint, charge controller, wire size, connector conductivity) and as the battery becomes more & more charged, the charge rate (current flow) will drop, and when fully charged, the current drops to zero (0). The chargers are rated at what they can safely supply, 1A, 500mA, 2.1A, 850mA, etc without damaging the charger itself-some chargers are smart and limit the current, others will supply what they can and suffer damage if more current is drawn than the charger is rated for (ex: Harbor Freight unit with shorted data pins put out 1.1A (rated 0.5A) and started melting parts before I shut it off). I tested an 'Apple compatible' charger rated at 2.1A and it would only charge at around 600mA unless I shorted the data pins, then it put out whatever the NC would draw, up to a measured max of ~1850mA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You sound more invested in this. I'll go sulk in a corner now...
sjmoreno said:
You sound more invested in this. I'll go sulk in a corner now...
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Click to collapse
Just trying to be helpful
Mess of technical crap from the 'car charger' thread:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=16505252&postcount=47
I spent half a day measuring crap to satisfy my curiosity. the reuslt: B&N should have standardized with normal (i-device) charging standards
Can I use a 2.1a cigarette plug on the N7? Or can someone recommend a suitable car charger (dual usb)?
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk 2
As long as the voltage output is correct it sgould be fine. I reckon 2.1Amp is plenty. I've not had much luck with 2Amp+ cigarette lighter adaptors, the few I've had have always ended up causing radio interference.
y, voltage matters much.
I've got a dual-output cig plug that has a 1A port and a 2.1A port. On my N7, it charges fine off the 1A port but doesn't charge at all off the 2.1A port.
For comparison, from the 2.1A port my Galaxy Nexus phone only recognizes it as "USB charging" so only pulls 500ma. 2.1A usually means it's got the special ipad circuitry and most other stuff won't pull more that 500ma from it. I stick to 1A chargers now.
From a purely electrical stand point the amps is less important then the voltage. You simply always need a supply with more amps then your device will draw. Unlike voltage where you do not want to have a difference in the number as long as the amps number is higher you're fine. If you have extra amps it doesn't use them unless it can pull them. But as timropp said you'll probably find it's designed to charge at 1A (ac charger) or 500mA (usb). A 1A charger has some resistors on the data lines which tell the device that the charger can supply 1A. Without those whatever is connected is assumed to supply at most 500mA and the device limits itself to pulling that much.
grim82 said:
From a purely electrical stand point the amps is less important then the voltage. You simply always need a supply with more amps then your device will draw. Unlike voltage where you do not want to have a difference in the number as long as the amps number is higher you're fine. If you have extra amps it doesn't use them unless it can pull them. But as timropp said you'll probably find it's designed to charge at 1A (ac charger) or 500mA (usb). A 1A charger has some resistors on the data lines which tell the device that the charger can supply 1A. Without those whatever is connected is assumed to supply at most 500mA and the device limits itself to pulling that much.
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Click to collapse
Resistors are not needed. I just solded the 2 USB data pins together and my Galaxy Nexus recognizes my car charger as a AC charger.
But unfortunately i don't think there is an app or variable that can tell me the actual amps the device gets from the charger.
Background: (feel free to skip this)
In my search to get a good car charger for my Nexus 10 (that would also be good on my Galaxy Nexus), I checked out a bunch of sites and manufacturers and reviews for the perfect charger. I also wanted it to be dual port for two phones at the same time in case my girlfriend is in the car.
So many 2A chargers are not actually 2A, they may be 1A to each port max or they may only work as 2A on an iPad. Android devices look for shorted out data connections in order to pull more than USB power (500ma). So a charger has to both offer 2A or more and have the data pins shorted in order for us to get maximum current to our Nexus 10's. The Apple/iPad chargers work differently. They either have smart chips or specific resistances between the data pins in order to specify current draw.
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What you came here for:
After the long search, the BEST while still very affordable car adapter, is the *drumroll*:
Bracketron Universal Dual USB Car Adapter
2 ports like I wanted. 2A like I wanted.
Contrary to the "Universal" listing, the adapter was likely made for the iPad. So charging out of the box is USB (500ma). But it's easily fixed in under 3 minutes!
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Instructions:
1. Pop off the round silver plate on the front (with your finger/nail).
2. Unscrew the silver part in the back. Don't lose the spring hidden inside.
3. Slowly pry open the black plastic. It's fairly rigid and you'll hear some clicks. If you don't open it like a crazy monkey, you won't damage or break any plastic.
4. You'll see by each USB port 4 wires going to the port from the circuit board. The 2 middle pins are the data lines, the 2 outer ones are the power lines.
5***. You want to short the data (two middle) pins. All that means is you want them touching electrically. Takes about 10 seconds to do with a solder iron (once it's hot ). Just flow some solder between the two pins, no wire needed. Do the same for the other USB port on the other side.
6. Put the plastic and screwed pieces back together. Plug it in and you should see AC charging! :victory:
***If you're poor at soldering, don't worry - you're doing this on pins in the air, not directly on the board, so it's an extremely easy soldering job. If you've never soldered in your life, you can possibly use some wire instead of solder to connect the two and find a way for it to hold in place. But seriously it's an easy solder job and you should probably learn how to solder anyway.
---
Reading the instructions I wrote takes longer than making the modification.
Why this adapter if you have to solder? It's the only one I can find with dual ports that can actually give 2A to an ANDROID device. Why this of all the other adapters you can attempt to solder? It comes apart extremely easily so you don't break any plastic like many of the other ones. And the adapter is really small so you don't have a huge piece of plastic hanging out of your power port.
Fair note: it looks like it may give 2A max, so charging both my 1A phone and my 2A tablet will actually be slower. But it's perfect for charging the tablet at full speed when by itself or two phones at full speed.
Also, credit to Amazon reviewer 'K. Crawford' for suggesting this adapter as a good one to mod.
If anyone needs help during the process, I'm more than happy to help!
Very nice info, thanks.
Niiice! I heard though even if you hook up the tablet to a 2A charger, the tab will still only take a reduced amount, is that true?
From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.
rp181 said:
From my measurements, the tablet will draw around 750 ma, so soldering it will help, just not for the full 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You measured 750 ma with the bracketron I linked post-mod?? It should be much higher.. What did you use to measure?
nice instructions, royal.
did I do it right?! check the details beneath one of the photos. you will see some solder popped and landed on the circuit board on the top right. it is touching one of those little enclosed boxes on its own and nothing else. you think this is gonna pose a problem?! if so, any fix? I tried to pull it away, but im not a mastersolderer.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
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Click to collapse
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.
wptski said:
It doesn't state if it's "shared" or not. Meaning is that 2.1A total for both or 2.1A each. Lot of them are shared even at 3.1A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.
Gaugerer said:
It says 5v, 4.2A so that is 2.1A each.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah! My bad, I see that at the top now!
slippy steve said:
nice instructions, royal.
bummer about the picture rule. I think I got some good shots that could help some people. I guess I'll be back to post the pics.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
Gaugerer said:
This charger is dearer but supplies dual 2.1A with the correct cables/
http://www.expansys-usa.com/expansys-expansys-dual-car-charger-adapter-5v-4-2a-219640/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.
Royal2000H said:
Are you able to post pictures yet? I'm happy to take a look and help out. If it won't let you attach pictures, you can try linking to an album on imgur, for example (if it allows links).
With the iPad designation, it's a sure thing that this will need modification. If I'm understanding you correctly, I think you're trying to suggest modified (data-shorted) cables rather than modified adapter. I prefer having a modified adapter so I can use and replace cables at a whim. But if you purchased that one already, you can see if it comes apart and can be modified just as easily.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.
Some people have said that the cable used also has a lot to do with what the tablet pulls. Some saying a Motorola brand USB cable they had gave much more current. If there is any truth to this then in conjunction with doing this mod to the charger it might be a good idea to buy a cable with 22AWG power conductors:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189234
wptski said:
I purchased a Kensington car charger packaged for an iPad and all that meant is that it came a iPad type cord but still a standard USB port which worked on my Android device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).
Royal2000H said:
The question isn't whether the port is USB. It's always going to be USB supplying 5V. The question is how much current the device can pull from the charger. A normal USB port (like a computer) can only supply 500mA by spec. The N10 needs 2A. The ones designated for ipad will usually charge your N10 but at a max of 500mA (even if they're rated higher - because the data pins aren't shorted).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.
wptski said:
If the data pins aren't shorted, it won't draw more than 500ma, if that's so, how can it be rated at 2.A? I haven't tried my PS with the Nexus 10 yet but did with my other device, had no problem but it has a much smaller battery and I don't remember the details.
I'll try to check it out on the Nexus 10 and post the results.
EDIT
I thried my Kensington or this one: http://www.amazon.com/Kindle-PowerB...158903&sr=1-7&keywords=kensington+car+charger.
I first tried it using a POGO cord and it wouldn't charge. It did using a micro-USB cord over 500ma also.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.
Royal2000H said:
I explained it all in the Original Post, but I'll try to clarify. If a charger is rated at 2A but doesn't have data pins shorted, the Nexus 10 will only pull 500mA. The manufacturer isn't necessarily lying about the 2A, it likely is capable of giving 2A. However, the Nexus 10 checks for shorted pins before pulling at 2A. This is because USB spec is rated for 500mA and if the Nexus 10 tried to pull 2A from a computer, it would overload the circuits of a computer's USB port and potentially damage the USB hub or computer. So as a somewhat universal decision (though really it's not standardized), most manufacturers did something like this: if data pins are not shorted (as in a computer) - take upto 500mA. If data pins are shorted (as in the charger provided with the device) - take upto what's necessary. This is actually a somewhat problematic solution because a 2A-requiring Nexus 10 plugged into, say, a Galaxy Nexus charger (shorted data but only 1A) could potentially cause damage from overloading.
Therefore, Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
So, as you see, the Apple ones don't have shorted data pins. Therefore a manufacturer of a car charger has to decide: Support Apple devices or support other devices? And some manufacturers do such a bad job, they provide the high current (like 2A) but then don't do Apple's "solution" or the data shorting, thereby rendering their high current useless.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If you were to use a PS limited to 1A, it "should" have a saftey to limit that. I used my above mentioned 2.1A PS with a 110VAC>12VDC adapter which was has a 1A max. and it did limit the output. Not saying that all PS would do that without damage though.
While poking around in files, I did find one that lists the power source by name but I forget as to what it showed for the OEM PS. I wonder what it'll show for a car PS?
Sv: Best 2A car charger: Bracketron
I doubt there are phone chargers without current limitations as safety feature. If designed well the charger should limit the current at its max current. Otherwise a lot of chargers would burn.
But I am not sure this is the reality
Skickat från min HTC Desire via Tapatalk 2
Royal2000H said:
...Apple didn't go along with the whole shorting the data pins solution. They came up with their own solution, which I actually don't know enough about to speak of in accuracy. But their solution allows the device to basically "sense" the capabilities of a charger, so it knows whether it can charge 1A or 2A or 3A, etc. This is I imagine is either done with resistors specifying discrete values or with some sort of "smart chips".
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I believe Apple use a pair of different value resistors to create a voltage divider, passing a different voltage to D+ and D-. The presence of this differential voltage on the data pins is what triggers the high power charge capabilities.
Also can I use the S6 cable with the dash charge brick? Thanks in advance!
I'm careless with the chargers I use - slow charging with my N6, fast charging with my N5/N10 - and never have any problems. It looks as if each device draws the charge it needs. Perhaps an electrical engineer could enlighten us both on the risks, if any?
I'm no electrical engineer, but @dahawthorne is correct. The phones only draw the amperage they actually need. It is possible to mix and match phones and chargers so long as the charger meets the amperage requirements. For example, I keep my N6 charger near my bed. If for some reason I need to charge up the N6 at my desk, I use my Galaxy S4 charger, which outputs 2 amps and is thus sufficient for the N6.
Where you would run into a problem though is if the charger you used didn't output sufficient amperage for the phone that was connected to it. For example, if instead of using my S4 charger I plugged in my Dell Streak charger which only outputs 1 amp. In that case, the charger would begin to heat up as it tried to compensate for the increased demand from the phone. After an unknown period of time in this state, the charger will either burn out, or cause a fire.
"the charger will either burn out, or cause a fire"
Now you're worrying me...
You should be. There is a reason why manufacturers don't recommend doing what we're discussing.
dahawthorne said:
"the charger will either burn out, or cause a fire"
Now you're worrying me...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
In EU chargers must have an overheat protection.
There have been publications that cheap chargers from China does not have such protection.
Mostly it concerns the 'smaller' type chargers.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Where you would run into a problem though is if the charger you used didn't output sufficient amperage for the phone that was connected to it. For example, if instead of using my S4 charger I plugged in my Dell Streak charger which only outputs 1 amp. In that case, the charger would begin to heat up as it tried to compensate for the increased demand from the phone. After an unknown period of time in this state, the charger will either burn out, or cause a fire.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think that's the case. If the charger is rated to supply 1A, it will supply 1A or less. I've used a 1A charger with my LG G2 and it never burned out or something. Unless that "uknown period of time" is a reaaally long time lol
Back to his question, my LG G2 charger supposedly supports Quick Charge 2.0 but my Nexus 6 only charges a 1.5A with it,same with my car charger with supplies up to 2.4A on each port. Then with the Motorola turbo charger, it goes up to like 2.3A. :'(
About the cable, of the cable worked at high amperage with the S6 charger, then it should as well with Nexus 6's charger
As I understand it with the n6, if you use a regular charger, the phone will only charge at the standard USB current, 500ma I believe. If using the turbo charger, or another Qualcomm 2.0 certified charger. Then you get the high wattage charging.
When I plug the phone into the laptop, it says charging very slowly. Leads me to believe there is some communication between the battery and charger...
I keep forgetting that smartphones are smarter than the other hand-held electronics I've dealt with since I was a kid. With normal electronics, they don't have a processor that can dynamically adjust to the amperage levels coming in from the charger. So, you connect an AC adapter to a device whose amperage requirements are greater than the maximum amperage of the adapter and, at best you end up with an overheated adapter and a device which may not function correctly. At worst, you end up with a house fire as the charger melts down.
However, while we all mix our devices and adapters, keep in mind that there are reasons why you shouldn't be doing this, according to the manufacturers. Damage to the device is one of those reasons, and damage to your home is another. If you're going to do it, you need to be careful, and you need to be aware of the potential pitfalls.
If you want to learn more, this article may be of help. If you don't want to read it, he summarizes his points at the end of the article, those points being as follows.
Make sure that the voltage matches as closely as possible.
Make sure that the new supply is rated to provide the same amperage or more.
Make sure that the connectors match, both in physical form and in polarity.
The last one doesn't apply as much to smartphones.
Hello guys. I use a standard 5V 2.0A charger at work with the original Samsung micro USB cable, I also have a Xiaomi type-C converter. Most of the times my Nexus 5X says charging rapidly! So my question is, is it safe to use? Can it harm my device? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
It won't hurt it, in fact it'll charge slower. So should create less heat and be better for it. Use ampere to check actual rates. The Nexus 5x c to c charger is rated higher than that. Slower is rarely ever bad, faster can be the issue
Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
No it won't but stock charger is more powerful (2.0 A vs 3.0 A)
I use a Samsung charger with a Type A to type C cable for overnight charging as I don't need it to charge rapidly while I'm sleeping. My cable is certified to comply with the standards though. Don't know if that Xiaomi type-C converter is or needs to be.
As said by @ideaman924, if it says Charging Rapidly, there's problem. Phone thinks it's connected to full-fledged USB Type-C cable which can handle more current than your microUSB cable with converter on the end (3A vs 2A).
AFAIK, it means there's bad/missing resistor in converter and thus it is NOT safe to use. And definitely not safe to charge with all night.
Example: For overnight charging I use Samsung's 5V 1A charger with Anker' a USB A to USB Type-C cable and phone says only Charging. However, when connected to stock Type-C to Type-C charger, it says "Charging Rapidly". That's how it should work.
So, head over to Amazon and buy ONLY Benson Leung certified cable. If you don't know him, Google his name -- he tests USB Type-C cables and made spreadsheet.
Where did you get that Samsung charger from? I had that same issue but it was with a 2.0a Samsung charger that came from Amazon that ended up being a fake, as with almost all the "genuine OEM" chargers sold on eBay/amazon. On a regular tablet it would output just under 2a. (I measured it once something like 1.88 or something IIRC) However, once connected to a co-workers 5X though it said charging rapidly and got very hot very quickly. It got binned after that. I don't use cheap chargers anymore.
Dont know if yours is a fake or not, but if you didn't get it with a new phone, I'd be suspect of it.
I prefer using the original one since boot loop issues
if your phone explode don't blame the LG