Soo I have a faulty battery on my Z3c and I do not have the time or money to replace it right now,and I would love to have a phone which wouldn't overheat and thermal throttle after watching a YouTube video and opening Snapchat.
As well because the battery overheated the back glass's adhesive has weakened and the glass unsticked so I use the phone with the battery exposed which actually did help a bit.
I do get better results when using "conservative" governor and at least trying to set the clock to 1500MHz(it maxes at 1500MHz for some time and then starts peaking at 2400MHz again). I also tried undervolting,didn't notice a difference unfortunately.
So now,what can I do to cool down the battery,because it is starting to get very very annoying. Maybe putting some aluminum plate over the battery(maybe a dumb suggestion,don't really know) or something like that? Thanks to anyone who helps in advance.
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Infy_AsiX said:
Mpdecision becoming re-enabled causes frequency's not to stick. I found using init.d to set kernel CPU settings and having Kernel Adiutor apply as normal again prevents issues.
See the last photo of my battery mod gallery for a thermal mod https://imgur.com/a/8Ceha. It still heats up, though taking longer to and a little less. You could also apply new CPU thermal paste, it wears out with age. Of two devices I've opened up one had no paste.
A metal back will dissipate heat better but will probably affect wireless signal. An interesting observation I've noticed is with the battery separated outside of the device the CPU tends to run a little hotter. As poor design as having a battery attached to the opposite side of a CPU acting as a heatsink is, it still does dissipate heat over more surface than without. More so I think with the battery removed there's not enough pressure against the back of the board to push the thermal contact flush with the front display body. With the back panel removed there's not enough pressure. With the air gap separation mod the extra ~1mm lets an external case create some pressure, getting better results than with an original glass back and hard plastic back case on top.
I never really ran my phone case-less so can't report differences there. However it should be noted that glass is an insulator and isn't good for dissipating heat.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Dinkec27 said:
Soo first the Mpdesicion thing,I have installed a new kernel which removes Mpdesicion and puts Intellithermal instead,I don't know if that affects anything with clock changes but we'll see. I am gonna switch to Oreo soon so we'll see how it is there.
Second,I will take the phone apart definitely when I get some time to do so. And for the third thing,no I am not really into modding cases and the insides of the phone and similar so I will be probably avoiding that.
Thanks for the help though.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Infy_AsiX said:
Intellithermal is for thermal throttling. A hotplugging replacement for Mpdecision is something else.
So nothing is covering the battery? Be careful not to puncture it. A case doesn't require modding but I think some thickness is required to create pressure. In other words I think the back panel without a case is better than no back panel with just a case and no pressure modification.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Dinkec27 said:
Okay I will try something today or tomorrow.
As for the Mpdecision,I turned it off and my clock still peaks at 2500MHz. You mentioned something with init.d.
Could you tell me what to do?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Infy_AsiX said:
Your ROM needs to have init.d support. If it does there should be a folder in /system/etc/init.d/. This used to be easier to add on MM stock. Since N AOSP it seems to be disabled. I've got it working via a workaround on Magisk, it's not straightforward.
Maybe try enabling shell script to apply settings in Kernel Adiutor settings first. If that fails maybe search and ask to see how anyone else gets edited frequencies to stick in your kernel thread. If you still can't get a fix i'll recommend my ideas.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Dinkec27 said:
So I did most of what you said,so first with Oreo it is actually much better with battery and heat management,but how do you now fix the volume down button when you tried to make the buttons go to place for 1 hour?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Sent from my Z3 Compact using XDA Labs
Infy_AsiX said:
So what have you done? Useful to know what's worked for you. Or do you mean Oreo is cooler by itself?
Do you mean your volume button is stuck? It shouldn't be. Check inside if it's aligned and properly placed. If you had removed the board try reinstalling it again taking care with button alignment.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah button alignment is completely fine it just isn't registiring a key press,maybe I have damaged the flex cable or the board.
And what I have done is apply thermal paste,leave 1mm between the motherboard and the battery so it has some air to breathe and Oreo seems to be cooler itself.
You must disable Thermal Core Control for your settings to be applied, can do it with Kernel Adiutor
Well I managed to get a new battery and with new settings that I set on Oreo there is almost no heat sooo yeah,this thread can be closed.
Related
if the touchscreen is pressure sensitive on the xperia of course. does anyone think it would be possible to code a program to measure that pressure in mass?
i think it would be so sick to use the xperia as a scale
It can not measure mass. Any more pressure will break the screen. Use your common sense!
its not a matter of common sense.
what do you mean anymore pressure would break the screen?
im sure by slightly touching my screen im putting less than a gram of pressure per sq. inch on the screen so im not sure what your talking about because im not going to measure a boulder on the thing, use your common sense..
Yes, it's definitely possible and would not be too hard to code. One way would be to define a measurement area ("scale") on the screen then gradually increase sensitivity settings (via a program, of course) in the registry until a touch was registered in that area. Initially, the registry values would need to be calibrated against a set of small weights (up to a reasonable weight, of course). Anyone got their high school physics weights?
But yo, what would be the good of a tiny xperia scale?
Y'all are crazy.
i have installed your soft touch on my xperia and i love it, where would the registry settings be found to change the sensitivity?
I think it's a really interesting idea to test.
I think it can be done since X1's touchscreen is resistive so it will be able to sense graduations in changing pressure.
Had you had an IPhone, it's capacitative screen would made this impossible.
The thing is, working with registry settings won't do the trick in my opinion. I think you need something more low level (like a driver maybe) to talk directly to the touchscreen.
If I were you I'd go and check the WM 6.1 SDK and see what it makes visible thru its API for the touchscreen part.
It would be worth investigating how the driver accesses the touchscreen hardware.
I'd be happy to try and help with the programming btw
It's the fingerpressure registry setting that changes it.
But storm' is right. I forgot that those registry settings don't take effect until a reset, so you'd need another method to either dynamically change the sensitivity or capture the value of the pressure as it is being applied.
ok, thanks storm seeing as this would be my first ever program to code I would really appreciate the help..
I was looking at the SDK site last night but didnt quite know what i was looking for, but now ill research the touchscreen driver(s) and how they are accessed by the phone and how we can use them to our benefit.
there is a touch.dll file in the windows folder im wondering if this registers the pressure applied..
Sweet,
I'm also gonna investigate more
Keep you posted
hmmm, i guess the first step would be to create a program that accesses the touch.dll to see if it records pressure applied?
3 guesses as to what you guys want to use this for
SamAsQ said:
3 guesses as to what you guys want to use this for
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
LOL They'd be better off with a Touch Pro. Don't want evidence getting under that recessed screen
e: Bloody great idea though. i'm not sure how it'll really work or how accurate it'll be... An object placed on the screen might have multiple contact points, and as the screen cannot detect multiple points pressure from the weight might be exerted elsewhere on the screen and not detected.
squidgyb said:
lol :d they'd be better off with a touch pro. Don't want evidence getting under that recessed screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
hahahahaahahahahahahahahahah :d:d:d:d:d:d:d:d
SquidgyB said:
LOL They'd be better off with a Touch Pro. Don't want evidence getting under that recessed screen
e: Bloody great idea though. i'm not sure how it'll really work or how accurate it'll be... An object placed on the screen might have multiple contact points, and as the screen cannot detect multiple points pressure from the weight might be exerted elsewhere on the screen and not detected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
true squidgy, but,
ok but you know on the fish panel?
i can place four fingers on the screen and they will find the exact center lift one finger up they will find the exact center of the three remaining fingers etc etc maybe this can help us in our mission..
so say you have a nice beautiful green flower that is making contact at three seperate points on the screen maybe we can incorporate what is going on in the fish panel to find the center and compare the pressure applied that the touch.dll hopefully will give us, and that we hope to figure by placing weights on the screen
I don't think the SDK will help us in our pursuit... I think it only gives back X,Y pairs...
We'd have to get pretty low level on this one.
The thing is, in theory its actually do-able.
http://www.scribd.com/doc/12804586/fourwire-resistivetype-touch-screen-with-usb-interface
This guy built its own drawing "board" by using a resistive touchscreen. The interesting thing is that he provides two methods of actually calculating the touch resistance which means that
1) it's possible to use it as a balance because the resistance would be dependent on the pressure, and the pressure depends on the mass in our case
2) it doesn't matter how many points you have... There's only one Rtouch so this means it calculates the overall pressure that is exerted onto the touchscreen. Even though you can only determine one X,Y pair...that's of no interest to us...
All this to say that in theory this is actually possible...Only problem is how to access the hardware...
At least this is my take on this, but I might be wrong
dbl post..
stormlv said:
1) it's possible to use it as a balance because the resistance would be dependent on the pressure, and the pressure depends on the mass in our case
2) it doesn't matter how many points you have... There's only one Rtouch so this means it calculates the overall pressure that is exerted onto the touchscreen. Even though you can only determine one X,Y pair...that's of no interest to us...
All this to say that in theory this is actually possible...Only problem is how to access the hardware...
At least this is my take on this, but I might be wrong
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
nice research
cool thats what i was thinking about the screen, but squidgy's thinking seemed logical, but if the resistive screen already calculates the overall pressure thats perfect..
ok so now we know that it is "theoratically" possible we just gotta get to action
im gonna be in vegas this whole weekend so ill try to update my progress when i can
Tool for resistance measurement
If the touchscreen panel that you want to measure is resistive you can measure it's force/displacement and resistance using one of the switch testers offered by a company called TRICOR Systems.
The touchscreen would have to use resistive technology in order to measure the resistance. Most of the newer touchscreens use either capacitive or surface acoustic wave technology.
Hey all,
I've been poking around the web and XDA for a while, and I'm wondering now if anyone else has had some weird audio stammering/stuttering on their Ones? Initially, I thought it might be something wrong with my headphones (have had a bad history of wearing out the jacks, but after using four or five sets, I don't think that's the issue. It's also not an issue with streaming/buffering the content in Play Music-- it happens with local content as well as streamed, although I haven't seen it much in other apps, such as YouTube.
If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them-- this has been a very frustrating issue on an otherwise excellent phone. I'm running tbalden's kernel, and otherwise am stock/rooted (and no, I don't see anything about the issue in the kernel thread, aside from some people playing around with PureXAudio). Thanks much!
Rirere said:
Hey all,
I've been poking around the web and XDA for a while, and I'm wondering now if anyone else has had some weird audio stammering/stuttering on their Ones? Initially, I thought it might be something wrong with my headphones (have had a bad history of wearing out the jacks, but after using four or five sets, I don't think that's the issue. It's also not an issue with streaming/buffering the content in Play Music-- it happens with local content as well as streamed, although I haven't seen it much in other apps, such as YouTube.
If anyone has any thoughts, I'd love to hear them-- this has been a very frustrating issue on an otherwise excellent phone. I'm running tbalden's kernel, and otherwise am stock/rooted (and no, I don't see anything about the issue in the kernel thread, aside from some people playing around with PureXAudio). Thanks much!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd go back to the stock kernel anyway. The current kernel source has had several issues that HTC needs to fix (including missing portions) so it's really not advisable to use one. There's not much benefit to a custom kernel right now anyway.
Vincent Law said:
I'd go back to the stock kernel anyway. The current kernel source has had several issues that HTC needs to fix (including missing portions) so it's really not advisable to use one. There's not much benefit to a custom kernel right now anyway.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nominally an option, the main issue is that I've become quite dependent on sweep2wake and logo2menu, but if it does become a bigger issue it's certainly a tradeoff I'll consider.
Rirere said:
Nominally an option, the main issue is that I've become quite dependent on sweep2wake and logo2menu, but if it does become a bigger issue it's certainly a tradeoff I'll consider.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd look into other solutions for those. sweep2wake actually eats quite a bit of power (it leaves the entire touch panel powered), and logo2menu can be replicated with other programs.
For example, what I do for powering the device on/off is using my flip cover combined with a Tasker profile that acts like the iPad smart cover, using the proximity sensor. Open = on, Close = off. Even works when turning the device over or putting it in the pocket.
Also, you can use apps like GMD GestureControl to enable menus with a simple gesture, combined with a basic rom modification to remove the soft menu button.
Vincent Law said:
I'd look into other solutions for those. sweep2wake actually eats quite a bit of power (it leaves the entire touch panel powered), and logo2menu can be replicated with other programs.
For example, what I do for powering the device on/off is using my flip cover combined with a Tasker profile that acts like the iPad smart cover, using the proximity sensor. Open = on, Close = off. Even works when turning the device over or putting it in the pocket.
Also, you can use apps like GMD GestureControl to enable menus with a simple gesture, combined with a basic rom modification to remove the soft menu button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've yet to have trouble with sweep2wake, actually-- it, along with PGM Nexus are compromises I'm willing to make for extra utility. I've actually never had very good luck with Tasker and a proximity sensor (I actually tried it again this morning with ill results), although the pocket trick does work reasonably well for me.
Personally, I can't stand GMD GestureControl on a phone, although it's a lifesaver on a tablet. In any event, I did try a restore to stock and I'm still having the issue (although it may be slightly less pronounced-- who knows!). Hopefully there may be a fix incoming from one side or the other.
Is it the camera module or some kind of motherboard?
I'm confused it works well from the freezer and I want to replace the faulty part but don't know what the faulty part is.
Opened it up earlier today only damaged the case slightly and it took 10 mins.
vrsdroid said:
Is it the camera module or some kind of motherboard?
I'm confused it works well from the freezer and I want to replace the faulty part but don't know what the faulty part is.
Opened it up earlier today only damaged the case slightly and it took 10 mins.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The problem is with the Camera Module. HTC confirmed this as a manufacturing defect, they would have fixed it for free.
Anyway to the best of my knowledge the problem was inadequate heat shielding for the Camera Module. Over time heat from the phones internal components (Processor, Battery etc) damages the lens inside the Camera Module producing the purple hue you see in your images. The warmer the device the worse it looks hence the reason it works ok after being in the freezer.
I sent my to HTC for repair I don't know exactly what they did but it came back good as new and so far the problem has not returned. Maybe they replaced it with an upgraded camera module or the same module but improved the heat shielding. Or maybe they just put the same module back in and the problem will return although I've never heard of it coming back after a HTC repair, only time will tell I suppose.
if you removed the back you can lift the camera and insert a thermal insulator , without having
to take apart everything ; you can put a thin plastic .
i could put a small circular magnet behind the camera myself when i was trying to fix the focus problem ,
there is some room.
Also put your phone in power saver it could help for the high temps.
Thanks for the replys, I did try lifting the camera even inserted something to the back of it and left it hanging out it still had the problem so I guess it just needs replacing May aswell replace the battery while I'm at it!
Thanks again
Quick update, I jjust replaced the camera module and it still has the pink tint now I'm lost anyone have any idea what's going on?
Does anyone know what is going on? perfect camera during the day but still pink/purple at night or dark I thought this would have been fixed after changing the module but obviously not is there anything else i can try?
And for those who have taken apart the camera module whats with the little sensor type thing on the camera modules ribbon? is that where the problem lies? a little square box lies beneath the copper heatshield it looks just like a megapixel sensor but is completely covered up.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
You can see that's pretty mild usage for a relatively short time. And yet many others are reporting they absolutely can't detect anything whatsoever even after a year of use. . I'm led to believe I'm an outlier.
So what is it that might make me more susceptible than the next guy?
The "easy" answer is device quality. And it might be the right answer, but what if there's something else.
I thought about what it is in my usage (which seems relatively mild) that might possibly cause this.
Then I realized the one thing that struck me odd about this phone. I noticed the screen is warm to my fingers if I use it while charging. I didn't meausre that temperature, but I did download GSAM about a month in and and set a battery temperature alarm at 110F. If I do mild surfing while charging, battery temperature gets up to 110F within a few minutes. I don't let it go above that now, and the screen feels relatively cool compared to how hot I used to let it get. So I'm going to guess that my battery temperature used to routinely get to 115 or 120F while I was using my phone while charging. And although they're not equal, when battery gets hot screen gets hot (again I could feel the heat).
Would heat affect amoled deterioration? We wouldn't think that at first because we normally associate the deterioration with simply being energized brightly over time. But what about being energized causes that deterioration. What if it's the localized heat at the pixel from that brightly energized pixel that causes the damage. In that case, anything else which makes the phone/screen run hotter overall will tend to enhance that local damage mechanism also.
Does my phone run hotter than average? I'm not sure, but since day 1 I've been using this funky case Uniform Supcase Beetle Hybrid Pro.. It's built like an otterbox.... thick and rugged. Up to 1/4" inch thick and surrounds the phone on back, all sides, and even wraps around to cover the front bezel. Imagine that wrapping is an insulator (like a blanket), it helps to keep the heat inside so the phone underneath the blankets is hotter than it otherwise would be.
Is that case why I'm different? I dunno, all I've got is one phone as a data point and a scenario that seems plausible to me.
I'm interested to know if any others have associated elevated temperatures or a thick case with enhanced susceptibility to burn-in . Or if you believe it may be related.
By the way, I have to add my perspective this is a minor and managable thing. I still love this phone. I'm just curious about why...
There are of course many threads on subject of N6 burn-in. The biggest one here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/general/burn-t2955765
electricpete1 said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
You can see that's pretty mild usage for a relatively short time. And yet many others are reporting they absolutely can't detect anything whatsoever even after a year of use. . I'm led to believe I'm an outlier.
So what is it that might make me more susceptible than the next guy?
The "easy" answer is device quality. And it might be the right answer, but what if there's something else.
I thought about what it is in my usage (which seems relatively mild) that might possibly cause this.
Then I realized the one thing that struck me odd about this phone. I noticed the screen is warm to my fingers if I use it while charging. I didn't meausre that temperature, but I did download GSAM about a month in and and set a battery temperature alarm at 110F. If I do mild surfing while charging, battery temperature gets up to 110F within a few minutes. I don't let it go above that now, and the screen feels relatively cool compared to how hot I used to let it get. So I'm going to guess that my battery temperature used to routinely get to 115 or 120F while I was using my phone while charging. And although they're not equal, when battery gets hot screen gets hot (again I could feel the heat).
Would heat affect amoled deterioration? We wouldn't think that at first because we normally associate the deterioration with simply being energized brightly over time. But what about being energized causes that deterioration. What if it's the localized heat at the pixel from that brightly energized pixel that causes the damage. In that case, anything else which makes the phone/screen run hotter overall will tend to enhance that local damage mechanism also.
Does my phone run hotter than average? I'm not sure, but since day 1 I've been using this funky case Uniform Supcase Beetle Hybrid Pro.. It's built like an otterbox.... thick and rugged. Up to 1/4" inch thick and surrounds the phone on back, all sides, and even wraps around to cover the front bezel. Imagine that wrapping is an insulator (like a blanket), it helps to keep the heat inside so the phone underneath the blankets is hotter than it otherwise would be.
Is that case why I'm different? I dunno, all I've got is one phone as a data point and a scenario that seems plausible to me.
I'm interested to know if any others have associated elevated temperatures or a thick case with enhanced susceptibility to burn-in . Or if you believe it may be related.
By the way, I have to add my perspective this is a minor and managable thing. I still love this phone. I'm just curious about why...
There are of course many threads on subject of N6 burn-in. The biggest one here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/general/burn-t2955765
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can notice burn in on mine (I use no case at all) but its very mild and a "burn-in fixer" like the black and white rolling lines from "Display Tester" makes it go away if ever I'm that bored to do so. Also I only ever notice it on a grey background which honestly is rare to appear where the status and button bars are. On the terms of battery temp I really have to get something going to hit >105F for instance downloading videos using multiple streams to make it go faster which requires stitching the video back together at the end which basically pegs the cpu. General browsing reading some news stories etc stays ~85-90F. Differences in temps between phone for this one in particular can swing wildly due to there being upwards of 17 different CPU "bins" (compared to something like 3-4 on the Nexus 5) with each bin being a 10mV shift in the voltage table for the CPU meaning on CPU can have a 300mhz at 810mV (bin0) and another could have it at 650mV (bin16). For reference mine is a Bin 12 or 690mV on the 300mhz and 1110mV on 2.7ghz.
Both of my devices (had the old one for about 2 months, this guy for about 1) both show burn-in similar to yours already. First was caseless, this one I run with a case. I think that burn-in is just a very widespread issue with this panel and the people claiming to not have any simply don't notice it. Maybe I got 2 bad devices fresh from amazon but, I think that's just how it is. Good news is it really doesn't bother me and I can't see it without a gray background.
electricpete1 said:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO84SCeykrD6Ecb9p3yWfoUe4KN2pJs2Eg/view
Above you can see detectable (under close scrutiny, ideal conditions) burn-in of my Nexus 6 screen after the following usage:
Only 8 weeks since I bought the phone
I'm reasonably sure that this was not present when I got the device because:
1 - it was "new" from Amazon in factory sealed box (although at a bargain price $299 for 64gb which makes me wonder slightly);
2 - inspected it pretty careully when I was reading about burn in shortly after I got my device;
My screen on time on a typical day is probably 2-5 hours per day over that 8 weeks. (although probably 5-6 hours per day during the very first week!)
Brightness is always in auto with the slider in the middle. And I don't spend a lot of time outside with my screen on.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's an interesting theory.
I'm one of those who have absolutely NO detectable burn in, either permanent or latent. I also run a thick case -- Ballistic Maxx.... but... I have (used to, but don't any more) used it very hot. In particular google maps nav used to really make a lot of heat, enough that you could REALLY feel it on the screen, and even through the case. Somewhere along the lines, something changed enough in (firmware? OS? gmaps?) that this no longer gets it to heat up appreciably. Aside from that, I've *never* used it while charging -- kind of difficult to do so with wireless charging. Auto-brightness with the slider at about 1/3. I've owned it for a year now.
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 PM ----------
StykerB said:
I can notice burn in on mine (I use no case at all) but its very mild and a "burn-in fixer" like the black and white rolling lines from "Display Tester" makes it go away if ever I'm that bored to do so. Also I only ever notice it on a grey background which honestly is rare to appear where the status and button bars are. On the terms of battery temp I really have to get something going to hit >105F for instance downloading videos using multiple streams to make it go faster which requires stitching the video back together at the end which basically pegs the cpu. General browsing reading some news stories etc stays ~85-90F. Differences in temps between phone for this one in particular can swing wildly due to there being upwards of 17 different CPU "bins" (compared to something like 3-4 on the Nexus 5) with each bin being a 10mV shift in the voltage table for the CPU meaning on CPU can have a 300mhz at 810mV (bin0) and another could have it at 650mV (bin16). For reference mine is a Bin 12 or 690mV on the 300mhz and 1110mV on 2.7ghz.
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That operation *should not* be especially hard on the CPU. Its actually a fairly trivial task. Might be that your software is doing something stupid, like keeping all the different pieces separate until the end when it copies them all in sequence into a target file.
You might want to look into better downloader software. The *correct* way to perform this kind of a job, is to allocate the file in advance, and have each stream write to its correct offset in parallel. No final copy.
You might also save a heap of work if you get rid of userdata crypto. Big problem with the crypto on these when doing that kind of glue-job, is that it will be running decrypt on all the different pieces, and simultaneously running encrypt on the target file.
That operation *should not* be especially hard on the CPU. Its actually a fairly trivial task. Might be that your software is doing something stupid, like keeping all the different pieces separate until the end when it copies them all in sequence into a target file.
You might want to look into better downloader software. The *correct* way to perform this kind of a job, is to allocate the file in advance, and have each stream write to its correct offset in parallel. No final copy.
You might also save a heap of work if you get rid of userdata crypto. Big problem with the crypto on these when doing that kind of glue-job, is that it will be running decrypt on all the different pieces, and simultaneously running encrypt on the target file.
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Well for 360p, 144p, and 720p which are the resolutions you can natively download from youtube as an MP4 do function this way (which if you download these resolutions the software just takes ~5 seconds to finalize the file after downloading). However since youtube is exactly keen on people downloading videos w/o Red (which I do have but I like having 1080p and/or 60fps for gaming style videos which Red does not allow for unfortunately). So those non-standard resolutions have to be downloaded in their little 4096 kb chunks with separate video and audio streams as if it were streaming it from the website itself and stitched together using an actual encoder. A 1080p60 video can put a sizable load ~50-100% i5 5200u laptop processor (depending on the complexity of the scene) while realtime streaming which arguably has more raw power than a N6 (part of the reason youtube still streams AVC codec to android). Now with the phone not having to actually render the video which VP9 codec isn't supported fully either device's GPU so a chunk of the load on the laptop would be rendering. The phone being able to finalize a 1080p60 30 minute video in ~1 minute is why the CPU is 100% while doing so and that just tells me it's using all the power it can to accomplish the task in parallel utilizing all 4 cores.
As for using encryption I've disabled it in the past with varied results (mostly kernel differences) but since I'm sticking with the stock rom and using the monthly ota's I've just left it on to stop any potential accidental encryption which could theoretically lead to data loss and/or the hassle of unecrypting again. In addition to this I see absolutely no gain in speed on the video stitching process which considering it performs the task at a ~15-20 MB/s rate where the limits of the encrypted storage are 200MB/s read and 90 write for sequential reading which is what the encoder is using. Since android 5.1 when the kernel was updated to take advantage of qualcomm's encryption instructions which would otherwise go unused to the OS anyway, encryption doesn't affect this type of workload.
I know this is kinda outside the scope of this thread but I have done some reading on this kinda stuff when I was trying to learn why the app needed an external app when downloading those difference resolutions which most apps wouldn't even do outside of PC software.
StykerB said:
Well for 360p, 144p, and 720p which are the resolutions you can natively download from youtube as an MP4 do function this way (which if you download these resolutions the software just takes ~5 seconds to finalize the file after downloading). However since youtube is exactly keen on people downloading videos w/o Red (which I do have but I like having 1080p and/or 60fps for gaming style videos which Red does not allow for unfortunately). So those non-standard resolutions have to be downloaded in their little 4096 kb chunks with separate video and audio streams as if it were streaming it from the website itself and stitched together using an actual encoder. A 1080p60 video can put a sizable load ~50-100% i5 5200u laptop processor (depending on the complexity of the scene) while realtime streaming which arguably has more raw power than a N6 (part of the reason youtube still streams AVC codec to android). Now with the phone not having to actually render the video which VP9 codec isn't supported fully either device's GPU so a chunk of the load on the laptop would be rendering. The phone being able to finalize a 1080p60 30 minute video in ~1 minute is why the CPU is 100% while doing so and that just tells me it's using all the power it can to accomplish the task in parallel utilizing all 4 cores.
As for using encryption I've disabled it in the past with varied results (mostly kernel differences) but since I'm sticking with the stock rom and using the monthly ota's I've just left it on to stop any potential accidental encryption which could theoretically lead to data loss and/or the hassle of unecrypting again. In addition to this I see absolutely no gain in speed on the video stitching process which considering it performs the task at a ~15-20 MB/s rate where the limits of the encrypted storage are 200MB/s read and 90 write for sequential reading which is what the encoder is using. Since android 5.1 when the kernel was updated to take advantage of qualcomm's encryption instructions which would otherwise go unused to the OS anyway, encryption doesn't affect this type of workload.
I know this is kinda outside the scope of this thread but I have done some reading on this kinda stuff when I was trying to learn why the app needed an external app when downloading those difference resolutions which most apps wouldn't even do outside of PC software.
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I can't even bother to read that since (a) it is out of scope, (b) is from an end-user point of view, and (c) doesn't actually address anything related to what I've explained to you.
I have this problem in last two custom roms I flashed (last one from today is cosmic os and previous not oxygene based cardinal extened). I have always battery at 50% and showing normaly only in twrp. When i reboot from twrp or restarting the phone, appearing the really battery percentage until i turn off the screen. When I turn it on again, I have the same 50%. Is it something I can do for that. Last one oxygene based was the official of 31/12/2017 i think.
My english is not so good but I hope you can understand me
Oreo development is still in progress, so a lot of ROMs have bugs that need to be fixed. Once LOS goes official for OP3/T, other ROMs that use it as a base will also gain stability
You can use Omni 8.1 for now, it is stable and official builds have been running for a few weeks now.
Most Oreo ROMs have the bugs mentioned in the OP. Cardinal Xtended, CosmicOS, and so on. This is a repeated bug for the 3T only.
Pixel Experience and Omni Rom have both been fixed and work great on Oreo 8.1 perhaps give them a try if you can.
Thank you very much all of your for your replies.
That means that is a recognized bug, right? For now I reverted back to my previous rom by nandroid back I had so I will try an other rom. Yes, I had omni and didn't have this bug.
I hope that will be fixed it so we wouldn't be limited to only some roms.
Thanks again and greetings from Greece
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.
Battery stuck on 50%
Macjars said:
There are 3 possible solutions for this issue.
1: replace battery.
2: change the ROM for one that changes the Kernel for a version without this temperature protection.
3: fix or replace the main board.
To fix the main board you need to check 2 things on it.
On the left side of the battery connector (under a double sided glue tape foam), there are some SMD. The lowest two are related with this problem. I fix my board resoldering the one on the right (nearest to the connector). Be aware that the SMD is small and when are desoldered, it gets sticked on the double sided glue tape foam. I took a picture of it, but i don't know how to insert here.
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Hello!
Do you offer me a kernel which no use the temperature protection?
I'm interested what can i do to fix myself the main board. Please write the details how is resoldering the temperature sensor. Solder temperature? Where it is exactly?
Thank you'