I've been searching around, and haven't really found an answer to this. I'm in the process of purchasing a car that has OEM AA, but unfortunately only one USB port, which apparently provides less than 1A of output. There is a 12V outlet in close proximity to the USB port. Are there any solutions out there for using AA while also providing higher amperage charging? Was thinking about trying a small hub/adapter (similar to what you would attach to a USB-C Macbook) but I wasn't sure if that would pass-through power as well. Using a stock Pixel 2.
Probably its not easy to achieve, but usually this is not a problem, you can still buy a different charger for rapid charging which works via the 12v outlet, and when its full or nearly full switch to the AA port, since even if its lower than 1A it will be enough to charge the phone ( or better: to not let it discharge) since the display is off during AA session
I use a USB Y Cable (https://www.startech.com/Cables/USB...xternal-Hard-Drive-USB-A-to-mini-B~USB2HABMY3) with a USB Mini to USB-C adapter.
I don't get the "Charging Rapidly" notification on the lock screen, but it does charge noticeably faster than before.
Related
http://www.expansys-usa.com/d.aspx?i=148251
Charges both at same time.
Sweet. I may get one of these.
Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.
sumtingwong said:
Do you know how much amps it's delivering? The Athena needs at least 2A to show any sign of being charged!!! I'm suspecting it's only delivering 500mA which is the max amount of amps a Jabra headset can take without frying itself. 500mA is just enough to light up the amber charging light on the Athena and nothing else.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I always thought that a regular HTC charger provided 1A. Do you use a 2A charger?
According to Expansys and PP Techs this should at least give more than 500mA:
The majority of new devices are equipped with two different charging modes: a sync-n-charge mode through a computer USB port (slow charge) and a regular charge mode through an AC/DC adapter or any other charging accessory (fast charge). Those two charge settings require two completely different pinouts and are not compatible with each other.
In select devices, this incompatibility would mean that a sync-and-charge cable for your device, when connected to an AC/DC adapter or similarcharging accessories, will not be properly configured to charge your device.
Our new Lil Sync® Duo Adapter is the convenient solution to this common charging problem. Using our adapter will forces your Sprint PPC-6700 to use the most effective, “fast-charge” mode when plugged into AC/DC power. Additionally, there is a Jabra 8 pin companion port tailed onto the adapter. This allows you to conveniently charge a second accessory such as a Jabra headset simultaneously.
In some cases, your Sprint PPC-6700 will not charge from an AC/DC adapter or other charging accessory when the battery life is below 30 percent. Our Lil Sync® Duo Adapter will charge your Sprint PPC-6700 from a completely drained battery.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Looks like an interesting little accessory.
Yes. I am using a 2A charger both at home and in my car. The one I'm using is the TomTom USB Charger for Go/One/OneXL/XL. Attached are the pictures of the car charger. The home charger provides the same amp. If you're in the US, the car charger is sold at Target for $19.99. The car charger is bent at an angle but the home charger is not. If your car doesn't have bluetooth and you have to use the audio jack on your athena, then you'll need a mini USB angle adapter to reposition the cable upward. The mini USB angle adapter comes standard with the old Motorola Razr V3 so if you already have one of those phones, you don't have to buy a new adapter. Otherwise, the Motorola mini USB angle adapter is sold for a few bucks where Motorola phones are sold.
Hi,
a friend of mine have gifted to me a car charger that is incompatible with my Legend, because is miniusb (with output: 5V - 1.5A) and the regular charger in bundle with the phone is microusb with output: 5V - 1A.
Can I use the car charger, with a differte cable (the car charger can use usb cables), or the current in output is to much for the phone?
It doesn't actually matter how powerful the PSU (power source unit) is, even if it was 5V / 10A you could still use it... To put it to easy talk, the phone will just take what it needs. The important parameter is Voltage, which is OK - 5V
Dr.Romca said:
It doesn't actually matter how powerful the PSU (power source unit) is, even if it was 5V / 10A you could still use it...
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Click to collapse
That's not quite true. The power does matter, but only in a limited way. The voltage (volts) must match. The current (amps) or power (watts) rating of the supply must be at least that which the device draws.
So in this case; yes, you are absolutely fine. You just need an adaptor to make the plug fit.
My work phone has a mini-USB socket, but requires 1.5A to charge successfully, which is three times as much as standard USB. My personal phone has the same socket, but will charge when connected to a conventional USB host like a laptop, which only supplies up to 0.5A. I can use any USB charger with my own phone, but I can only charge my work phone from its own charger.
Apparently I've not made enough posts to include links, but you can google "Charging Batteries Using USB Power - Maxim" and click on the first link, as long as you don't mind reading a moderately technical document.
Don't nitpick I'm an engineer so I know how these things work end to end, If you have power and a good charger (not meaning the car charger, but the actual charging circuit handling the battery charging inside the phone) you can charge even from 5V / 200mA It'll just take more time, of course you'd have to add more than the phone consumpts, but if you do that you're basically OK...
What you're referring to is USB charging, we all know USB doesn't have to have full 5V but in case of charger, there will be 5V...(possibly even more when open)
I have this car charger with 5V and 1000mAh
http://www.ansmann.de/cms/de/consumroot/chargers-and-power-supplies/universal-chargers/carcharger-micro-usb.html
and i must say it is worse than the Original charger for the Wall outlet from HTC -- it takes about twice as long to charge the phone.
And when i use my phone for Navigation it even slowly discharges the phone - which is truly annoying!
EDIT:
I did some research: on original HTC Chargers the Data+ and Data- pins on the micro-USB-connector are short-circuited to tell the HTC-Phone that it connected to an original charger - only when the phone realizes this, it charges with 1000mA!!! Otherwise it only charges with the USB-specificated 500mA
You can easily check this when you charge your Phone with a 3rd-Party charger, go to:
Settings-> Telephone-Status -> Battery
Here is usually written charging (USB)
only with original chargers you get "charging" (AC)
I opened the connector of my Car-charger and short-circuited the Data+ and Data- --> Now it says charging (AC)
I still have to test if charges faster now, and charges the phone while navigation - because until now it discharges while navigation, despite being connected to the Car-charger.
So to say it short: If you want to quickly charge your phone in your car buy a original HTC Car charger, or short-circuit a 3rd-Party one.
f4b1ck said:
Hi,
a friend of mine have gifted to me a car charger that is incompatible with my Legend, because is miniusb (with output: 5V - 1.5A) and the regular charger in bundle with the phone is microusb with output: 5V - 1A.
Can I use the car charger, with a differte cable (the car charger can use usb cables), or the current in output is to much for the phone?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
don't worry you can charge your phone with no problem
i have the same 5V 1.2 A ,it's charging with no problem
It's good to have stornger charger. Probably you wil be able to charge your phone faster But it always have to be 5V.
So this is my first motorola and I had heard of the issues they have with non motorola chargers. Now I am experiencing it first hand. With the same ac charger I have charged many phones with and is capable of 1 amp output (D4 charger is only rated at 850 mA) my D4 struggles. With the device off it charged painfully slowly. While on it cannot even charge. It discharges while plugged in despite the charging indicator and reporting "charging (AC)" in status.
How does it know it is not a moto charger? Is it just about the resistance between the data pins? For most other phones shorting the data pins on the charger indicates to the phone that it is a high current charger and not a computer USB port. Is there a similar trick for motorola phones? I would rather not have to purchase an overpriced moto oem car charger. I have a perfectly fine 1.2 amp car charger soldered directly into my car's 12v system behind the dash. Can I make it work?
Thanks!
On a regular basis I successfully charge my D4 using both a charger from a Samsung Reality feature phone and from a B&N Nook Simple Touch, in addition to the one that came with it. I've also used a variety of car chargers.
Sent from my DROID4 using XDA
Actually, so far I have only one charger that had any trouble charging the phone (it was a $3 charger with 2 USB ports), but the $3 charger with ONE USB port works fine, as does the Nook Color charger, Blackberry charger, and Samsung charger I have tried it with, as well as both my old car charger and Lenovo's always-on charging port on their laptops.
JKingDev said:
So this is my first motorola and I had heard of the issues they have with non motorola chargers. Now I am experiencing it first hand. With the same ac charger I have charged many phones with and is capable of 1 amp output (D4 charger is only rated at 850 mA) my D4 struggles. With the device off it charged painfully slowly. While on it cannot even charge. It discharges while plugged in despite the charging indicator and reporting "charging (AC)" in status.
How does it know it is not a moto charger? Is it just about the resistance between the data pins? For most other phones shorting the data pins on the charger indicates to the phone that it is a high current charger and not a computer USB port. Is there a similar trick for motorola phones? I would rather not have to purchase an overpriced moto oem car charger. I have a perfectly fine 1.2 amp car charger soldered directly into my car's 12v system behind the dash. Can I make it work?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure how it knows one way or the other. I've successfully used a few LG chargers to charge my D4. The only really hickup I've ran into is the usb cables from those lg chargers won't sync data to the phones when plugged into a computer, they'll still charge off the usb port but won't read as a usb connection to the computer.
Heh, captcha is trynply.
Every charger I've used, including an old charger for an EN-V, kindle, supplied, and various other phone chargers works just fine with this phone. Probably have a bad charger, guy.
Thanks for the replies. I guess I was wrong. My modded car charger works just fine. I guess its just time to retire the old charger that I have been using. I think it might be my old nexus one charger.
A more important question would be does the thing charge over computer-bound USB ports?
When you're without a charger, but there's a USB cable that fits your phone, sometimes a regular USB data port is the only that is around... even though it might take a really long time.
Try a computer bound USB port, then try your actual charger, again. Or do the hard reset (vol down plus power, hold until it actually does it), which is just like pulling the battery.
See how that goes.
Chris
RueTheDayTrebek said:
A more important question would be does the thing charge over computer-bound USB ports?
When you're without a charger, but there's a USB cable that fits your phone, sometimes a regular USB data port is the only that is around... even though it might take a really long time.
Try a computer bound USB port, then try your actual charger, again. Or do the hard reset (vol down plus power, hold until it actually does it), which is just like pulling the battery.
See how that goes.
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does in fact charge via USB port. In fact, it has a 'charge only' mode. Depending on how much juice your port puts out, and what you are doing with the phone, it will charge slowly/not at all, though.
from my experiences, the droid 4 will not accept lg microusb cables, the charging bricks work tho. i use a blackberry microusb on mine along with a Logitech and the stock moto ones. 1.2 amps is a bit high but not crazy sounding. personally, I charge at 1 amp.
Is it safe to charge the Nook Color from a PC USB port? I tried using a iphone charger and I think it melted XD
So....I'd rather not melt my USB ports. :/ Or Blow up the nook!
Anyone have information for this?
I charged mine on an ungrounded extension card cinnected to a possibly unregulated outlet, and it broke the charger plug permanently. Burning smell and high heat and all that stuff.
Probably not my best idea. But I am not gonna say I think it happens to anything but the nook charger. That setup hasn't damaged anything else before or since.
Locklear308 said:
Is it safe to charge the Nook Color from a PC USB port? I tried using a iphone charger and I think it melted XD
So....I'd rather not melt my USB ports. :/ Or Blow up the nook!
Anyone have information for this?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
When connected to a PC USB port the Nook will only detect that it is data USB connection and not a pure charger and will only try to draw 500mA which is the standard USB current limit. Under these conditions the Nook will only charge very slowly particularly if it is active with the screen lit.
When connected to a real charger like the Nook charger that has the data lines shorted to indicate it is a pure high power charger then the Nook will attempt to draw up to 2000mA. Any charger worth its salt will supply whatever it can and protect itself against overheating. Cheap and nasty chargers could potentially have overheating problems.
I have successfully used other chargers in place of the standard one. E.g a HP Touchpad charger and a car 2A USB charger.
Avoid this compatibility problem by using a standard micro USB cable when charging with a charger other than the standard NC charger. I charge my NC all the time with one of my numerous HTC plug-in chargers and a standard micro USB cable.
mr72 said:
Avoid this compatibility problem by using a standard micro USB cable when charging with a charger other than the standard NC charger. I charge my NC all the time with one of my numerous HTC plug-in chargers and a standard micro USB cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So using a regular micro usb cable will allow safe charging?
Locklear308 said:
So using a regular micro usb cable will allow safe charging?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Here is how I think it works.
Nook will only request up to 500mA charge rate if it detects that the cable is plugged into a regular USB port like on a PC with data connections. This is irrespective of whether you use the B&N cable or an alternative microUSB cable. There is almost 0 risk in this arrangement.
If the Nook is connected via a standard microUSB cable to a charger that signals it is a high power charger by having shorted data lines then it can get up to around 1000mA of charge from it.
If the Nook is connected via the B&N cable to a charger that signals it is a high power charger by having shorted data lines then it can get up to around 2000mA of charge from it. This is just because the B&N cable has extra voltage supply pins at the microUSB end and tries to spread the load to avoid stressing the individual pins with two much current. Without these extra pins it will not request the extra current through them.
In both the second and third case it is possible that a poorly designed charger could signal the ability to supply the higher current and then suffer because it did not have the overload / over-heating mechanisms to deal with it. One could argue that evolution should kick in at this point and destine this type of charger to the well-deserved scrap heap
bobtidey said:
Here is how I think it works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, that's sort of close.
But the NC doesn't "sense" anything about the charger. The stock NC charging cable with the light-up horseshoe has the pins shorted and is also a slightly different connector type such that it cannot be plugged into a normal micro-USB on a device besides a NC. So if you plug THIS CABLE into the NC, then it will draw 2A from whatever is plugged into the other end of the cable. If the thing on the other end of the cable is the NC charger, you are in good shape, since it can safely deliver 2A of current. If you plug the other end of the NC stock cable into an iPhone wall charger or a computer USB port, some other generic wall charger, then it will likely draw more current than the charger or port can safely deliver and may damage the charger or cause a fire.
If you use a standard micro-USB cable, regardless of what charger you use (including the stock B&N charger), it will only draw about 500mA of current and charge the NC more slowly, but it will work safely with pretty much any generic USB port either on a computer or a run of the mill USB wall charger such as those that come with nearly every Android phone on the market, or a charge dock, USB cigarette lighter adapter for your car, etc.
So the key is: use the B&N stock NC CABLE ONLY with the stock B&N wall charger. Use a generic micro-USB cable with any charger including the B&N wall charger. It's all about the cable.
mr72 said:
Well, that's sort of close.
But the NC doesn't "sense" anything about the charger. The stock NC charging cable with the light-up horseshoe has the pins shorted and is also a slightly different connector type such that it cannot be plugged into a normal micro-USB on a device besides a NC. So if you plug THIS CABLE into the NC, then it will draw 2A from whatever is plugged into the other end of the cable. If the thing on the other end of the cable is the NC charger, you are in good shape, since it can safely deliver 2A of current. If you plug the other end of the NC stock cable into an iPhone wall charger or a computer USB port, some other generic wall charger, then it will likely draw more current than the charger or port can safely deliver and may damage the charger or cause a fire.
If you use a standard micro-USB cable, regardless of what charger you use (including the stock B&N charger), it will only draw about 500mA of current and charge the NC more slowly, but it will work safely with pretty much any generic USB port either on a computer or a run of the mill USB wall charger such as those that come with nearly every Android phone on the market, or a charge dock, USB cigarette lighter adapter for your car, etc.
So the key is: use the B&N stock NC CABLE ONLY with the stock B&N wall charger. Use a generic micro-USB cable with any charger including the B&N wall charger. It's all about the cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry. That's not true.
The B&N cable behaves like a standard USB data cable. It does not have the data pins shorted. You can use it to plug the Nook into a PC and transfer files. This would not be possible if the pins were shorted in the cable anywhere. The only difference between the B&N cable and a standard one is that is has extra power pins on the microUSB end in a deeper connector that are just used for spreading the charging current.
The B&N charger like other high power USB chargers does have the data lines shorted in it and that is what the Nook sees and causes it to switch into high current charging mode.
You can see all this in operation with a Battery monitor App like "Battery Monitor". When the Nook is connected to a data port via the B&N or other cable then the charging mode is USB and will draw up to 500mA. When it is connected via a standard cable to a charger like the B&N then it will say AC charging mode but will only draw around 1000mA (not limited to 500mA). When it is connected to the charger via the B&N cable it will also say AC charging mode but will now draw up to 2000mA as the extra pins are available.
Note that these currents are the maximum drawn in these modes. The actual value drawn depends on the state of the battery. Also they are what the Nook attempts to draw from the charger. It can't force the charger to supply 2A and any decent charger (which is most in my experience) will only supply what they can safely or will shut down if they experience overheating.
I safely use the B&N cable with a variety of chargers. I also use it to connect to PCs for data transfer and background charging (at 500mA). I also use other USB cables with both the B&N charger and with other chargers. You only get full 2A charging by using the B&N cable with a charger with data lines shorted that can supply 2A OK.
bobtidey said:
Sorry. That's not true.
The B&N cable behaves like a standard USB data cable. It does not have the data pins shorted. You can use it to plug the Nook into a PC and transfer files. This would not be possible if the pins were shorted in the cable anywhere. The only difference between the B&N cable and a standard one is that is has extra power pins on the microUSB end in a deeper connector that are just used for spreading the charging current.
The B&N charger like other high power USB chargers does have the data lines shorted in it and that is what the Nook sees and causes it to switch into high current charging mode.
You can see all this in operation with a Battery monitor App like "Battery Monitor". When the Nook is connected to a data port via the B&N or other cable then the charging mode is USB and will draw up to 500mA. When it is connected via a standard cable to a charger like the B&N then it will say AC charging mode but will only draw around 1000mA (not limited to 500mA). When it is connected to the charger via the B&N cable it will also say AC charging mode but will now draw up to 2000mA as the extra pins are available.
Note that these currents are the maximum drawn in these modes. The actual value drawn depends on the state of the battery. Also they are what the Nook attempts to draw from the charger. It can't force the charger to supply 2A and any decent charger (which is most in my experience) will only supply what they can safely or will shut down if they experience overheating.
I safely use the B&N cable with a variety of chargers. I also use it to connect to PCs for data transfer and background charging (at 500mA). I also use other USB cables with both the B&N charger and with other chargers. You only get full 2A charging by using the B&N cable with a charger with data lines shorted that can supply 2A OK.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well I can say that using an ipod/iphone charger is a BAD idea haha. I shall stick to the normal charger :]
Locklear308 said:
Well I can say that using an ipod/iphone charger is a BAD idea haha. I shall stick to the normal charger :]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree it is good to stick to the B&N charger with B&N cable for best fast charging. The only reason not to is to reduce the number of chargers one is carrying or to provide alternatives like charging in a car.
I was pointing out that the issue is primarily around the chargers not around the cable. Your original question was about charging from a PC USB port and that is safe no matter what cable you use.
The case where the cable might make a difference is where a non B&N charger has the data lines shorted and will allow AC charging mode but is OK with < 1000mA (non B&N cable) but could blow up if it tries to deliver 2000mA (B&N cable). So, it is less risky if you use a non B&N cable when using a non B&N charger. Still a poor charger design if that is the case.
I'm trying to make a fast charging cable for use in the car. The current charger I use seems to work fine, but the coiled cable annoys me. When I use a standard USB cable the charging reverts to slow mode which means the GPS and screen drain the battery faster than the cable can charge it.
The charging cable that works has a resistor between ground and the unused pin 4, but what I want to know, is this the only USB charging standard that the Droid4 supports, for example does it support the one where you put a resistor between the two data pins, or the one where you just join the data pins together?
If it supports either of those, then this project just got a lot easier as I can just chop the Type A connector off my USB cable and do all the work without having to solder a Micro USB connector.
Could you de-solder the coiled cord and solder in a micro USB cord or even a female USB cord for removal of OEM usb... or is that what you mean in the last paragraph... If you want I could give it a try as I have three rapid car chargers and several USB cables...
Lum_UK said:
I'm trying to make a fast charging cable for use in the car. The current charger I use seems to work fine, but the coiled cable annoys me. When I use a standard USB cable the charging reverts to slow mode which means the GPS and screen drain the battery faster than the cable can charge it.
The charging cable that works has a resistor between ground and the unused pin 4, but what I want to know, is this the only USB charging standard that the Droid4 supports, for example does it support the one where you put a resistor between the two data pins, or the one where you just join the data pins together?
If it supports either of those, then this project just got a lot easier as I can just chop the Type A connector off my USB cable and do all the work without having to solder a Micro USB connector.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure if this has anything to do with your question but try an ipad or tablet charger (2.1 Amp) which i use on my droid 4 and charges it fast.
Regular chargers use 0.7 to 1.0 Amp. I know tablet chargers are bulky but they tend to charge your device faster.
Also maybe this thread will work for you: http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1984838
I'm using a 2amp car charger with a USB socket at the moment and I assure you it isn't charging at that speed. The other charger with the coiled cord does charge at the higher speed, but it also has the odd wiring.
That thread is interesting, is exactly the kind of thing I was talking about, but I'm looking for confirmation that it will actually work with the Droid 4 before I start hacking up cables. The Droid 4 seems to be fussy about which chargers it will work with, my 2amp charger worked fine with the HTC Desire Z, for example.
Another part of my reason for doing this is I want to use the right-angled USB plug that is on my USB lead, but that Micro USB connector is sealed and unmodifiable.
Lum_UK said:
I'm using a 2amp car charger with a USB socket at the moment and I assure you it isn't charging at that speed. The other charger with the coiled cord does charge at the higher speed, but it also has the odd wiring.
That thread is interesting, is exactly the kind of thing I was talking about, but I'm looking for confirmation that it will actually work with the Droid 4 before I start hacking up cables. The Droid 4 seems to be fussy about which chargers it will work with, my 2amp charger worked fine with the HTC Desire Z, for example.
Another part of my reason for doing this is I want to use the right-angled USB plug that is on my USB lead, but that Micro USB connector is sealed and unmodifiable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm not sure but there is a radio called ihome ic50 (Google it) i own it and it has a special switch which the manual says if the device has a proprietary charging protocol flip the switch. I made a quick test and it charges in both ways. I'm pretty sure your idea will work as long you know what you are doing. BTW the ihome ic50 is pretty cool for any android device.