Hi everyone, I saw that during idle mode the image is like a strobe and in the settings the image size is blocked 16: 9 0.9 megapixels, and impossible to change. I saw the same problem on my galaxy s9 + and also a galaxy s7. I saw on the net that a lot of this problem !? how to solve it? thank youView attachment 4661145
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Envoyé de mon SM-N960F en utilisant Tapatalk
krz_ayman said:
Hi everyone, I saw that during idle mode the image is like a strobe and in the settings the image size is blocked 16: 9 0.9 megapixels, and impossible to change. I saw the same problem on my galaxy s9 + and also a galaxy s7. I saw on the net that a lot of this problem !? how to solve it? thank you
Envoyé de mon SM-N960F en utilisant Tapatalk
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its how slow mo works. it takes high frame rate video with lower quality. iirc the slow mo you will take is 720p in 480fps. since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
ammar18 said:
its how slow mo works. it takes high frame rate video with lower quality. iirc the slow mo you will take is 720p in 480fps. since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
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Click to collapse
ok thank you friend, and so it is normal that we do not know anything in the settings and the lights flash! then all slow motion videos will be in poor quality as long as the light is by "day"? A friend made a slow motion video with an iphone 7 in a dark room, and the slow motion is great! I try me and it is awful ... where I asked myself these questions.
Envoyé de mon SM-N960F en utilisant Tapatalk
krz_ayman said:
ok thank you friend, and so it is normal that we do not know anything in the settings and the lights flash! then all slow motion videos will be in poor quality as long as the light is by "day"? A friend made a slow motion video with an iphone 7 in a dark room, and the slow motion is great! I try me and it is awful ... where I asked myself these questions.
Envoyé de mon SM-N960F en utilisant Tapatalk
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Click to collapse
yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
ammar18 said:
since lamps flicker at around 50-60hz, and you have 480fps which means you will have a faster shutter speed, thus the camera is capturing light faster than how lamps flicker
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Click to collapse
These days the modern lamps can have all kinds of flicker frequencies and effects, especially at higher frequencies, due to using (cheap and/or small space) electronics to convert and control the mains voltage to the lamp's voltage/current, and the conversion has its own higher frequency.
The end result can still be flickering, just that it can also look different than the older 50/60Hz effect, depending on how the camera works. For example, it can show as lighter and darker stripes instead of brightness changes in whole frames.
For examples as seen right at my desk with the super slowmo preview: LED backlight display of my slightly old work laptop flickers wildly and full display effect; my newest LED backlight 4K monitor is steady; my older CCFL-backlight monitor shows a slow slightly colored rolling wave effect through a rainbow of shades (though in this case the effect could be caused by the actual LCD-panel control instead, or the combination of the panel and backlight both varying at different frequencies); LED stripe desklight is steady; fluorescent room ceiling light (has electronic ballast) is steady; the hallway light uses LED replacement lights for small halogen bulbs and flickers madly.
(The old laptop display is kind of bad one, it sometimes flickers even visibly while it "warms up", and it shows a bit of rolling flickering also in the normal photo mode preview, whereas the hallway lights and the CCFL-backlight display look completely steady in that mode.)
Slow-motion / high frame rate video recording not only needs plenty of light, it should be non-flickering type, either daylight or lamps with electronics that are good enough to give steady non-flickering light output. (Details, details: There are other means, but I don't think there is need to go into details here; photography/video forums/websites are better source of info at this point, as this applies to all cameras in general, not just mobile phones or specifically Note 9. Also, even normal photography should use non-flickering types of light, otherwise auto-exposure measurement just before the shot can get different light level than what ends up recorded on the sensor, possibly leading to bad and/or varying exposures, or even lighter/darker stripes on the photo if the exposure uses rolling shutter.)
The super-slowmotion preview is a nice way to check your lights, although it doesn't necessarily reveal all the problems. Normal camera with fast rolling shutter might be even better "detector" in this sense.
6thtry said:
These days the modern lamps can have all kinds of flicker frequencies and effects, especially at higher frequencies, due to using (cheap and/or small space) electronics to convert and control the mains voltage to the lamp's voltage/current, and the conversion has its own higher frequency.
The end result can still be flickering, just that it can also look different than the older 50/60Hz effect, depending on how the camera works. For example, it can show as lighter and darker stripes instead of brightness changes in whole frames.
For examples as seen right at my desk with preview: LED backlight display of my slightly old work laptop flickers wildly and full display effect; my newest LED backlight 4K monitor is steady; my older CCFL-backlight monitor shows a slow slightly colored rolling wave effect through a rainbow of shades; LED stripe desklight is steady; fluorescent room ceiling light (has electronic ballast) is steady; the hallway light flickers madly (LED replacement lights for small halogen bulbs).
(The old laptop display is kind of bad one, it sometimes flickers even visibly while it "warms up", and it shows a bit of rolling flickering also in the normal photo mode preview, whereas the hallway lights and the CCFL-backlight display look completely steady in that mode.)
Slow-motion / high frame rate video recording not only needs plenty of light, it should be non-flickering type, either daylight or lamps with electronics that are good enough to give steady non-flickering light output. (Details, details: There are other means, but I don't think there is need to go into details here; photography/video forums/websites are better source of info at this point, as this applies to all cameras in general, not just mobile phones or specifically Note 9. Also, even normal photography should use non-flickering types of light, otherwise auto-exposure measurement just before the shot can get different light level than what ends up recorded on the sensor, possibly leading to bad and/or varying exposures, or even lighter/darker stripes on the photo if the exposure uses rolling shutter.)
The super-slowmotion preview is a nice way to check your lights, although it doesn't necessarily reveal all the problems. Normal camera with fast rolling shutter might be even better "detector" in this sense.
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Click to collapse
true. i have seen some 'artificial' lights in super slow mo which appears to not flicker, even after taking the video. usually i check it first before taking a super slow mo video.
even in normal mode i can see some flickering on some laptop screens and monitors, and even the moving stripes sort of thing that doesnt go away even after tinkering with the shutter speed. so i guess its more dependant on the type of light, rather than shutter speed? (not implying shutter speed is not important in this regard)
thats a lot of information to swallow on me, but hey, not bad to learn something new.
ammar18 said:
even in normal mode i can see some flickering on some laptop screens and monitors, and even the moving stripes sort of thing that doesnt go away even after tinkering with the shutter speed. so i guess its more dependant on the type of light, rather than shutter speed? (not implying shutter speed is not important in this regard)
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Click to collapse
The preview may use one shutter speed, even if the actual photo (or video) would be taken at another shutter speed. And how it looks depends on both the frequencies/effects on the light and the frequencies (and shutter type) of the camera and mode/parameters in use. (And there can be other differences in other cameras. E.g. DSLR's typically use one aperture when looking through viewfinder and adjust that aperture quickly when the photo is taken, then return it back to the "viewing" aperture. And that is why there can be a "DoF preview" button, which forces the desired aperture already during viewing. Ooops, again into details, photo/video websites are better for this.)
ammar18 said:
yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
krz_ayman said:
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
are you using super slow mo or slow motion in your Note 9's camera?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIHg5p1KBsY
In this video, the image is clear and there is no light except the object that is lit. I do the same test and everything is completely dark and the quality very mediocre.
ammar18 said:
yes, it is normal if lights flash, especially at higher fps
the default option for the slow mo on the Note 9 is super slow mo, which is 720p at 960fps. it requires quite a considerable amount of natural light, as artificial light, or lamps flicker. to get the normal slow mo, go to your camera settings, edit camera modes, rear camera and check Slow Motion. that way you can get higher quality slow motion at a reduced frame rate which reduces flickering.
on the side note, when you use super slow mo, you can remove flickering by playing the video, press the three dots at the upper right corner, and tap on Remove Flickering.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ammar18 said:
are you using super slow mo or slow motion in your Note 9's camera?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use slow motion
krz_ayman said:
In this video, the image is clear and there is no light except the object that is lit. I do the same test and everything is completely dark and the quality very mediocre.
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Click to collapse
what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
ammar18 said:
what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
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Click to collapse
Ok the friend, so in fact everything is normal and this mode is used in certain light conditions.
Hi, I understand what you explain, but the iphone 7 is also able to film Slo-mo video support for 1080p at 120 fps and 720p at 240 fps. As noted in 720p 9 but it does not have the blink of light and its slow motion has a good image quality unlike our samsung.
So if we need an extreme amount of light to slow down, they are available only in certain good light conditions! Which makes the option not very attractive unlike the slow-mo iphone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Frame rate matters; 240fps (let alone 960fps) might e.g. reveal flickering that is not noticed at 120fps. Each camera could also use different shutter speeds (which is not always the same as 1s/fps). Also, for proper comparison, the compared cameras should be used in the same circumstances (same lamps, etc.)
Quality differences is another topic I'm not going to comment on. There can very well be some, just like with the different quality of photographs with different cameras.
The amount of light does not need to be "extreme", but again, the higher the frame rate, the less time there is to expose (=gather light for) each frame, so the brighter the light needs to be for equal results. Specifically, e.g. 240fps vs. 960fps is 4 times difference in the light needed (if shutter speeds are scaled by the same factor). Or compare normal 30fps to 960 fps, the amount of light might need to be 32 times higher. As an over-simplified example (and not specifically for this Note 9 case), assuming a case where a normal 80W room light would be just enough for a nice 30fps video (shutter speed at maximum to still get 30fps), that light would need to be improved to a whopping 2560W for "equal" exposure with super slow motion. There are other factors affecting it, usually one doesn't really need 2.5kW of light (e.g. I can do a super-slow motion video that only gets a bit on the dark side right at my desk, which has light levels perhaps between recommended "normal room" and "office" levels and corresponds to maybe 20-40W of fluorescent output above the desk - but was it really 960fps, I didn't check), but this discussion is moving towards the territory of general video/photography stuff, other websites are better for these.
The linked video example is obviously made in a studio or studio-like environment, by people who likely know at least a bit on what they are doing ("Slow Mo Guys TV"), so they likely do have appropriately suitable lights (and then some).
The little bit of slowmotion / superslowmotion videos that I have so far taken with Note 9 hasn't shown me anything that I would not have expected (be it flickering lights or result getting too dark etc.) The only things currently in my list of questions related to Note 9 slow motion are: "is the video length in normal slow motion mode limited", "was the very begin and end of one normal slow motion video at normal speed, and if so then why, or does it even matter" and "what was that talk about 480fps and/or 0.2sec snippets I read somewhere (perhaps slips from S9+ or something)".
So, one can always simply try if the slowmotion mode works in the circumstances or not - no need to ignore it in other than certain light conditions - though I would not bother to even try at night, dark street, dim/dark rooms etc. Sometimes the light levels are ok, sometimes they are just too low or the lights are too flickery, in which case one might look for better lighting, and/or move to better lighting (closer to light, daylight outside, another room). Sometimes its tough luck, with no possibility to do decent slow motion video. In some cases one might be able to use certain software to make it slow motion in post-processing (but it has also its own limits). All this is also better explained in photo/video websites.
---------- Post added at 16:45 ---------- Previous post was at 16:25 ----------
ammar18 said:
what you see might look like there is no other visible light source, but actually it has lights from behind as you can see from the shadow. it can look like its dim because of its high frame rate.
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Click to collapse
To me, the apple basket snippet looked like multiple large diffused lights (or lights with many lamps/sources of light) (and/or reflecting diffusers) from "all" directions (except not from below and less from left); I can't see any shadows there, e.g. the handle only makes slight fuzzy darker area near it, looking like there is at least one light source somewhere up-right.
The dropping water seems to have only one smooth light to left, as reflected from the metal and drop surface, and the drops (when round) do not show anything from behind (or reflections from the front side).
The 3rd scene seems to have at least two not-so-well diffused 4-lamp sources (seen warped in reflections).
But all in all, well arranged lighting in each case (except the bee, where it is likely just the sunlight, no "arrangement" needed).
Related
Is there a way of getting good performance from the video on the TyTN II, when there is "low light"?
For example, if I am outdoors during the day, video records brilliantly... very smooth. If I record in the house at night with the lights on, video recording is very very jittery (but sound is perfect).
I have found that if I gradually aim the camera towards the lights the video recording gets gradually better the more light that gets in to the camera.
Thats a pretty funny question.
shutter speed ?
I would imagine the camera is combining frames due to the lack of data from the low light, effectively reducing the frames per second but providing at least a viewable picture. This is probably by design and the alternative would be a great frames per second in low light but entirely useless dark video.
Adjusting the contrast in image properties allowed me to see more in a dark room, but the motion is still awful compared to daylight video. I don't believe there is any way around it, other than turn on a light. Maybe someone does know a way to just slightly tweak it to accomplish a better a compromise, though. Anyone?
daaaayyyuuumm dude...search!!!
(...for "camera video trick" and check the FOURTH result...)
Anyone else having issues with the camera not taking crisp photos?
I came from a S3 and once you touched the screen to focus and then hit the photo button it would take sharp pictures all the time, on the S5 I have went thru every setting possible trying to see of one will help it take a clear picture and as of yet have failed every time.
Sitting in the living room lit with sunlight I tried to take a pic of the living room, came out blurry (yes the plastic film is off of the camera). out of 5 photos maybe 2 come out clear. Last night at the basketball game I had the same issues, pictures of us taken by other people required multiple shots to get one that came out clear, shots we took in the arena when it was lit up well were hard to get to come out in focus.
Anyone else seeing these issues on the S5?
Turn off picture stabilization future in your camera.
Swiping from dark side of Galaxy S5.
norbarb said:
Turn off picture stabilization future in your camera.
Swiping from dark side of Galaxy S5.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This. I'll explain. the higher the ISO the faster the shutter speed at the expense of photo quality. in traditional film cameras higher speed films (ISO) came out very grainy and loss of detail. It's used a lot in dark, low light situations because as you know the slower the shutter speed, the more chance of blur.
image stabilization in smartphones has at least some to do with shortening that shutter speed by ramping up the ISO, leading to loss of detail. aperture / shutter speed / iso are the three things that are correlated, our cameras have a set aperture. when you take pics outdoors on a bright day, the shutter doesn't have to be open long, and the ISO is taken down to 100, so that is why you have amazing crisp clear pictures.
at night, take of image stabilization, set the ISO to 100-200-400, and have a VERY steady hand. when you try all 3 ISO levels, you'll notice it will take longer for the shutter to close, however if you have a tripod or set it on a table, your picture will look very clear. clearer than iso 400, 800, etc.
the benefit is at higher ISO, in low light settings the shutter will be faster so less chance of blur
I don't have the image stabilization turned on, it takes to long to use it and even when I did try it out the photos it produced were blurry as well.
I am pretty camera savvy as I have a nice DSLR, I have tried different metering options and messed with the ISO. No change in settings produces a clear picture, beginning to wonder if I have a defective camera system in the phone. I noticed this morning that the camera module is set in the phone crooked as well.
sneakyws6 said:
Anyone else having issues with the camera not taking crisp photos?
I came from a S3 and once you touched the screen to focus and then hit the photo button it would take sharp pictures all the time, on the S5 I have went thru every setting possible trying to see of one will help it take a clear picture and as of yet have failed every time.
Sitting in the living room lit with sunlight I tried to take a pic of the living room, came out blurry (yes the plastic film is off of the camera). out of 5 photos maybe 2 come out clear. Last night at the basketball game I had the same issues, pictures of us taken by other people required multiple shots to get one that came out clear, shots we took in the arena when it was lit up well were hard to get to come out in focus.
Anyone else seeing these issues on the S5?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I get very sharp shots in good light. I'd say it is hard to get one out of focus in good light. I'm seeing pretty decent performance in low light (for a camera phone). If you are getting poor focus in good light, you may have a defecting camera.
What shutter speeds are you getting for the ones that are out of focus? Because of the camera's limitations in aperture and ISO, it is easy to get shutter speeds in the 1/15 second range. Obviously anything moving in the picture is going to have motion blur, on any camera. Only way to get around that is to increase light (e.g., use flash).
Here are a couple things to try (if it is not motion blur of subjects):
- Turn on tap to take picture, and keep the phone as still as possible. I find that with this set, I have to do less handling of the phone and can keep it more stable
- Picture stabilization helps a bit. It increases the ISO a bit, and does some image processing. It appears to be doing some sort multi-frame processing (comparing/combining multiple frames to yield a better shot). Seems to help more with camera shake blur than it does with subject motion blur.
Hi Guys,
If anyone can enlighten me under which condition we should use HDR and which condition HQ?
As far as I have found that in Low light should go for HQ as it reduces noise, and in good light condition HDR.
Still if anyone can bother to detail explain .
Thanks.
uttam.ace said:
Hi Guys,
If anyone can enlighten me under which condition we should use HDR and which condition HQ?
As far as I have found that in Low light should go for HQ as it reduces noise, and in good light condition HDR.
Still if anyone can bother to detail explain .
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah you have it spot on another little tip is that holding down the shutter bursts takes pictures up to 20 very fast and then you select the best one you see. Great for catching that right moment.
HDR should be used generally in conditions when in your pic you have both under lighted and over lighted areas. Than the HDR is taking 3 (or more) pics with different exposures in order to capture the most from each areas (under and over lighted) and then combines them. At least this is the general photography theory for HDR.
I am also curious for what is optimized the HQ mode. From the name (HQ, High Quality) I would go for a better sharpness and focus which is obtained by sacrificing shot speed (this can be obtain through some processing, adjusting of the camera settings, etc), but this is only my assumption. I try to google it but nowhere is coming any official information, only guys again posting their assumptions and some time some 3-4 pics for comparison...
Hi All, I am facing a strange issue with xz1 compact where only slow motion videos are coming distorted normal videos are good but when I click on 960 fps button screen start flickering.
Here is the video of the same issue
Not able to post url please paste it in your browser and remove the space after /
youtu.be/ NMNPz8QVIhI
Please help me to resolve it I am on April stock build and not unlocked the bootloader.
sourabh0077 said:
Hi All, I am facing a strange issue with xz1 compact where only slow motion videos are coming distorted normal videos are good but when I click on 960 fps button screen start flickering.
Here is the video of the same issue
Not able to post url please paste it in your browser and remove the space after /
youtu.be/ NMNPz8QVIhI
Please help me to resolve it I am on April stock build and not unlocked the bootloader.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Fairly certain the flicker is due to the LED lighting around you. Most LED lights flicker around 50-60Hz, which is more or less at 50-60 frames per second (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not 'that' tech savvy), and what happens is your camera films at 960fps.
You get the picture.
Syberyon said:
Fairly certain the flicker is due to the LED lighting around you. Most LED lights flicker around 50-60Hz, which is more or less at 50-60 frames per second (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not 'that' tech savvy), and what happens is your camera films at 960fps.
You get the picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Sybryon, Thanks for replying I can agree with the flickering in slow Mo but the issue is even before clicking the slow Mo button the Flickr starts.
Here is the video where you can see the quality degraded before going for slo-mo.
youtu.be /wRIA9nGWgCU
sourabh0077 said:
Hi Sybryon, Thanks for replying I can agree with the flickering in slow Mo but the issue is even before clicking the slow Mo button the Flickr starts.
Here is the video where you can see the quality degraded before going for slo-mo.
youtu.be /wRIA9nGWgCU
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is business as usual. Nothing wrong with your phone.
The artificial lights in the room you are in are pulsing at 100Hz because the power grid in your country is running at 50Hz.
When you go in to slow motion mode, the camera goes to 720p60 (as well as adjusting the shutter speed for 720p960 operation).
Take 60 or 960 and divide it by 50 or 100 = Odd number = flicker
Take 60 or 960 and divide it by 60 or 120 = Even number = no flicker.
Options
a) Buy better lights with proper AC filtering or
b) Go outside and film in sunlight or
c) Move to a country which has a 60Hz power grid.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzP8FFKpwQ0
Syberyon said:
Fairly certain the flicker is due to the LED lighting around you. Most LED lights flicker around 50-60Hz, which is more or less at 50-60 frames per second (please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm not 'that' tech savvy), and what happens is your camera films at 960fps.
You get the picture.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Almost correct.
LED's do not flicker inherently. LED's run on DC, Direct Current, which is constant.
It's the inadequate AC filtering and DC ripple filtering in their power supplies that makes them flicker.
Some LED's can even flicker visibly, especially if dimmed, while some only show their flicker if you take video of them with a framerate that doesn't match the utility frequency.
Incandescent lights flicker just as well because of AC, alternating current. Lower power ones show it more while higher power ones have a physically thicker wire filament (so they can handle the power) which just happens to also retain the heat longer and as a result flicker less. This is because when the voltage goes down the light output doesn't drop as drastically as it does with "regular" power incandescents.
CFL's can flicker also, especially the early ones or cheap ones. While modern, good quality CFL's with electronic ballasts refresh themselves somewhere in the neighbourhood of 10kHz to 40kHz which is waaaay beyond visible.
Hi, when I use the slow motion , the whole display starts to flicker, but still works. all the other camera modes are fine.
Is that software issue?
Keyvannn said:
Hi, when I use the slow motion , the whole display starts to flicker, but still works. all the other camera modes are fine.
Is that software issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The display is flickering while recording, or the video when playing back? I just tried, I don't see any flickering while recording. But if it's in the recorded video, what kind of lighting are you in? I recently tried to take a slo-mo with my S20, and had significant flashing. It was at night, I figured it was due to the LED lighting flash rate being slowed down.
dscline said:
The display is flickering while recording, or the video when playing back? I just tried, I don't see any flickering while recording. But if it's in the recorded video, what kind of lighting are you in? I recently tried to take a slo-mo with my S20, and had significant flashing. It was at night, I figured it was due to the LED lighting flash rate being slowed down.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, i would suspect this. Unbeknownst to the average person, LED lights tend to flicker A LOT. They do this at a given harmonic of the line frequency. If you're in the US then the LED will flicker either at 60Hz or 120Hz. Most people can't see this at full speed as the light has a bit of persistence and we're geared to see smooth motion. But, when you slow it down you find that at 240Hz or 480Hz the video is now fast enough to catch the dark patches in between the pulses. So, the video seems to strobe. Not all LED bulbs will do this and those that do won't all do it the same. But, it's there, you just can't see it. Keep in mind when shooting video in other modes this could still happen. At 60Hz or 120Hz video even though it's full speed you are still potentially capturing some frames in between pulses. This could cause a sort of beat frequency to appear. So, if anyone is having that problem when trying to shoot video your options are 1: do it in the sunlight. The sun doesn't flicker. or 2. Get a constant light source. Fluorescent bulbs have greater persistence as do the old incandescent bulbs. Professional lighting will be consistent too. But, $4 LED bulbs are going to SUUUUCK for slow mo video.
Yes. You were right. The problem was the led bulb.
That was interesting.
Thanks guys