Database Develop

Tv-Out Quality

I recently purchased a 3.5mm to video/audio cable for my samsung captivate and I am noticing that the quality of the videos on the 46" LCD TV is not that great compared to when i watch the same videos on my computer. The cable I purchased is a Scoshe brand that I found locally from Fry's Electronics.
Is the sub-par quality due to the phone output or the cable itself? What has been your experiences with TV-Out?
Thanks.

You're using a VGA cable, you'll never get HD quality content. It's akin to trying to run a VHS on your new 46" TV. It'll just never look as good as the HD content you've come to expect in the last few years.
For me, it works well enough on my GF's old 90's tv if we're going to watch a movie or some TV shows. I would never use it on my TV at home though.

dude not vga, rca, aka composite video. composite is a notch above vhs and a notch below dvd. so yeah it's the tv out and the cable.
hopefully the micro usb to hdmi will work on the captivate with a future update. there are reports that it works on the epic. if not you can share with dlna via allshare.
i have a $50 media box thing from netgear and it works but the phone cant push the video to it you can only tick the video for playback (dont add to playlist) and let the other end play the video. also windows media center can be a dlna server and an xbox can play it as a media center extender, the ps3 is also dlna certified. there are also upnp apps in the market that should work with xbox. and ftp and webdav apps that will let you mount the phone as a webdrive or access with a browser. i know many of those options are great in the home but useless for travel and if your home you dont need it anyway.
the netgear device i have is very portable but unfortunately you still need a usb wireless adapter to use it, im sure there are similar devices that have built in wireless but may be more expensive.

Thanks for the respones. Would you suggest getting a "higher quality" cable or am I just basically stuck with what I got? The pictures and videos look blurry (and pixelated) when I view them on the TV and I just want to know if it has anything to do with the cable.

gormander said:
Thanks for the respones. Would you suggest getting a "higher quality" cable or am I just basically stuck with what I got? The pictures and videos look blurry (and pixelated) when I view them on the TV and I just want to know if it has anything to do with the cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
live with it till the usb to hdmi thing works
edit; if the cable feels very thin and fragile it may have poor noise rejection, some are not sheiled very well. also if the you had to mix the colors around to get it to work that's not good. video cables are a different impedance so you need to use the yellow one for video. i know 3.5mm av cables dont follow a standard format and i dont know if you had to mix and match connectors to get a picture. but on a 46 inch tv you wont get good quality no matter how high the cable quality is, it's just an old inferior technology and why the make s-video, componant video, vga, dvi and hdmi.

I have a 46 inch LCD and have attached the phone to it. A HD movie looks ok, but not near as good as running via the PC at 1080p via HDMI. When and if they get the microUSB to HDMI working, we should see an improvement.

[Q] HDMI and speaker line out question

Hi to all
Has anyone tried the above?
Connecting the dock's HDMI to TV watch the picture in tv and try at this moment if speakers line out 3,5 jack had audio output signal? or it has no output and the sound is only going through the HDMI cable?
If anyone please has the dock, check this and give me the results.
Thanks in advance

The best conection for playing back Galaxy TAB video, picture and music files was,
GT with it USB cable on Mass Storage connection + TV with USB port & media play function.
The benefits from this conection was,
1. Single cable connection.
2. Only need connect GT to TV USB port, so less works & movements retriction between TV, couch/bed, power socket.
3. TV not only playback GT files but also provide power charging to GT. fter playback 1 hour of Full HD video, my GT battery power now up to 71% from initial around 50%+ (can't remeber the exact number).
4. Able to move around GT directory & playback files using one TV remote control. That's saving troubles of using 2 devices, GT screen + TV remote.

The thing is not a TV with USB, I have not a USB TV, I had used the dock in my Toshiba connected with HDMI cable and I have perfect video but NO SOUND at all, I had not found a solution yet, I had tried with several HDMI cables, still no sound.
I cannot find any settings for the HDMI, in the Tab.
Has anyone has any solution?
I had read that a lot of Galaxy Tab owners had HDMI sound problems.
The bad thing is when the TAB sees the HDMI connection mutes the sound in the tab and drives it through the HDMI cable.
The 3.5 Jack audio out in the back of the dock has no sound, when HDMI is connected
Any solution??

papatzis said:
Hi to all
Has anyone tried the above?
Connecting the dock's HDMI to TV watch the picture in tv and try at this moment if speakers line out 3,5 jack had audio output signal? or it has no output and the sound is only going through the HDMI cable?
If anyone please has the dock, check this and give me the results.
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
that's a really good question and makes a lot of sense. for the 2nd poster, I think almost all of us do not have usb inputs on our tvs. lucky you though
if the hdmi out sends pic + audio but the audio out is still available in the 1/8" adapter or another method then it would be really good.
would be amazing if the tab had digital audio out through a standards compliant consumer digital audio cable (rca or fibre) though
oh well, I'm dreaming right now.

[Q] Question about video game output with HDMI adapter

Thinking about grabbing an HD+ 9" since they're so cheap now but the screen is still beautiful, and was wondering how well it handled hooked up to the TV with the HDMI adapter as a game machine. I want to be able to hook up a bluetooth controller and play emulators and some downloadable games. From what I can find online, I hear it doesn't have very consistent resolution support via the adapter, and while I see that video plays correctly in 1080p, I was wondering how it handled games which have varying resolutions and since. Will a game that can support 1080p support 1080p through the adapter?
Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

How can I play games on my One, on my TV?

Let me rephrase just in case, I'd like to run emulators on my HTC One, play them with a Moga Controller via bluetooth, and watch them on my tv via an HDMI cable. But can an hdmi cable transfer everything shown on screen like running emulators? I've read that it only works for watching movies and internet browsing.
If this is all possible, what kind of hdmi cable and adapter would I need? I know the One doesn't support micro-hdmi, only mhl. Any suggestions?

mblacki said:
Let me rephrase just in case, I'd like to run emulators on my HTC One, play them with a Moga Controller via bluetooth, and watch them on my tv via an HDMI cable. But can an hdmi cable transfer everything shown on screen like running emulators? I've read that it only works for watching movies and internet browsing.
If this is all possible, what kind of hdmi cable and adapter would I need? I know the One doesn't support micro-hdmi, only mhl. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes MHL is what you need. I use one made by PNY. Make sure you give the adapter power through the micro usb port. From my adapter I use a standard HDMI cable to the TV.
I believe it just mirrors everything on your phone, unless the app is programmed to do differently (like not showing playback controls on external screen). I play Real Racing 3 and use Netflix and play music with MHL.
A few things, though: MHL selects resolutions based on what you TV reports. If your TV does 1080p, then MHL uses that but at a lower refresh rate (I think it's 24Hz). If your TV only does 720p, then MHL will use that but at higher refresh rate (30? not sure). I never found a way to manually set it.
Then there's also a bit of lag. So if MHL chooses 1080p and lower refresh rate, it could become quite difficult to play fast action games.

HDCP problems and other woes...

Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's £30 for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.

Crin said:
Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid the only solution is to get an HDCP compliant projector...
CCast will only pass on HDCP info from the Device it is plugged into, but has no HDCP of it's own. And it can not be faked.
The Adapter will also break any HDCP as HDCP is meant to deny you the ability to do what your trying to do in the name of not letting you make copies of the content.
You will be fine with Content that does not require a HDCP signature to play (self ripped movies or non-DRM materials) but something like Netflix has little chance of working without some HDCP compliant device being connected the the CCast.

You can get a standard HDMI DVI adaptor for cheap, and maybe this will allow HDCP information to be kept. However you may be unable to keep the audio stream without a more elaborate device.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?

Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you're essentially converting a Digital signal to analog and HDCP only works via Digital.
A Real HDMI to DVI adapter as suggested may help but make sure in the specs it says it will pass HDCP.
And do make sure it also has Audio Breakout.

Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your projector is a little newer than my Sony VPL-HS10, but it might have the same issue - the marketing wasn't 100%. My VPL-HS10 initially said it was HDCP-compliant on the DVI-D port, but ended up that it isn't. Well, it might be for a few select devices, but it isn't up-to-spec for the general standard.
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
Your other potential problem is that the adapter may not be converting the HDMI timings over to VGA, and rather expecting the receiving device to compensate. Some can, some can't.
The specs for your projector says it has a DVI-I port, so it might accept analog on that port.
So first I'd try connecting DVI-to-VGA adapter (the ones that normally come with video cards to get VGA out of the DVI port) and connecting Chromecast --HDMI--> HDMI-to-VGA --VGA--> DVI-to-VGA adapter --DVI--> Projector and see if you get a different result on the DVI input - sometimes the scaler is separate or different for different inputs.
If that doesn't work, I recommend HDfury2 or newer - beware of counterfeits as there are many fakers online. I have successfully used HDfury products with my Sony projector from various sources. You'll want the HDfury2 or newer to get the audio breakout, which is a 3.5mm (1/8-inch) analog stereo and digital (optical TOSlink).

bhiga said:
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to mention probably as expensive as a new Projector with HDMI and HDCP support! LOL

Crin, did you ever get this solved?
I bought the same stupid converter you showed in the image.