Database Develop

At Last, I can take great pics!!

I have been very dissapointed with the performance of the X1 camera even after installing the R3 cab. It was imposiible to capture anything that moved because by the time it took the photo my subject had left the vicinity lol.
Following the advice of another poster (sorry, cant remeber who but thanks) I set my focus to infinity. Now, I can take full 3mp, fine quality pics, use the zoom function and capture crisp, clear images...even when the subject is moving. This combined with Resco Photo Viewer has been the final missing piece of the X1 jigsaw.......forget the X2 Ill now keep my X1 for as long as I can

Hah, I will check this out than!

Nice advice, works flawless! The pictures are not shaken anymore...
But tell me: how do you zoom? Does the x1 have the option to zoom?
Cheers

Zooming
Use the volume up and down button. Didnt work with 3mp and auto focus but works a treat now!!

just remember there is no optical zoom only digital zooma, so the more you zoom the worse the picture.

Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?

oTToToTenTanz said:
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
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Yes, have installed R3A cab so maybe that's the difference with the zoom function. Well worth doing as it also has auto flash and GPS functionality.

You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.

i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!

Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.

ring-bearer said:
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
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Click to collapse
The infinity "trick" doesnt effect the ability of camera to take good pics in poor light. It just lets you take good quality pics instantly rather than suffering the lag between button push and photo taken.
Sonus said:
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
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Click to collapse
I have my camera set for 3mp and fine quality, have just double checked and it seem that with the R3A cab installed the zoom function is available with all of the focus options.

hey thanks for the advice, it really helps.

biernes_atrece said:
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine

flashpanda said:
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)

harveydent said:
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.

flashpanda said:
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I do, actually I usually include a secondary subject in the background to make the DOF blur easily appreciated.
Plus, I have a modded camdriver for the k850 which allows manual focus. No luck finding one for the X1, though.

Thanks Crank1.
I was getting peeved about the quality of the pics and the lag.
No I get perfect pics every time! (well for a phone camera)

manual focus would be so awesome

Need camera help

i have the kodak easy share C1013 which has 10 mega pixels apparently. but the problem is my phones comes blurry what ever i do, even if the flash is on for some reason, but this only happens indoors and even if the lights are on...if anyone here is good in camera, can they help me pls
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=7783291#post7783291
see the third photo on this thread i clicked it with the flash on

Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.

Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?

wdfowty said:
Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?
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i have tried both manual and automatic, but both come out blurry. the camera has never been droped and this occur only indoors even if there is plently of light.

jaszek said:
Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.
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Click to collapse
i alway focus my camera properly, when ever the focus is right, the box thing becomes green. how to lower the shutter speed i will take some photo with plenty of light. also the the the third photo was taken in a room full of light and also with the flash on

You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.

You could also check settings for your focus point. It could be set to spot focus off center, I've seen it before.

ohyeahar said:
You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i tried what you said and see the pics i uploaded, but still i dont find the quality of a 10 megapixel camera tho

For those types of pics you need a camera with a macro feature/setting.
good day.

The 3rd and 6th photos are blurry because your subject spans a large depth of field. In those two photos, the base of the iPhone is close to your camera while the top of the iPhone is far away. The distance between these 2 points is too large for your camera to handle (especially under those lighting conditions). Your camera needs a smaller aperture setting than it can handle for those shots.
(In the 3rd photo, the camera seems to have focused on the farthest point. Notice that the top is in focus but the bottom is blurred. In the 6th photo, it's the opposite. Notice that you can clearly see the cracks in the cardboard box on the bottom while the top is blurred.)
The others look on par with what you should expect from your camera under those lighting conditions.
Remember that more megapixels doesn't mean better quality.
The following is just a tip. Lighting is important. Try to take your pictures with sunlight. Don't depend on your camera flash. If you use your flash aimed directly at your subject to compensate for lack of lighting, your pics will look terrible more often than not. (I see from the reflection off the rear of your iPhone that you're using a lamp as your primary source of light. That's not adequate...)
Shallow depth of field is not a bad thing with good lighting. It allows you to highlight certain aspects of your subject. See the following examples.
1st Pic, 2nd Pic, 3rd Pic
The 2nd pic draws your eyes to the bottom right corner while the 3rd pic draws them towards to the top left.
These were also taken indoors with a 10MP camera. But I used my Nikon D60 with SB-400 speedlight to bounce the flash off the ceiling.

Is there a way to use the 3x optical zoom lens?

Using 3x zoom in the camera doesn't switch to the 80mm lens. It just gives a crop from the 40mp main sensor.
Is there a way to actually use the 3x lens?

In my case to make it work I force Focus, after that i can see the swap between lenses.

Horayken said:
In my case to make it work I force Focus, after that i can see the swap between lenses.
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How do you force focus? I tired manual focus and it still didn't change lenses when going from 1 to 3x

viper98 said:
How do you force focus? I tired manual focus and it still didn't change lenses when going from 1 to 3x
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just tap somewhere in the picture and it will change to the optical zoom lens.

djlukas1983 said:
Just tap somewhere in the picture and it will change to the optical zoom lens.
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Click to collapse
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger

viper98 said:
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You must use it in enough bright environment because it won't switch to zoom lens when it's not enough bright.

viper98 said:
That doesn't do anything but use a crop from the 40mp sensor to give a fake "zoom". You would get the same results using the 40mp mode and cropping the image yourself
I'm convinced the optical zoom lens exists for nothing but marketing. The only lens on the back that is ever used for any photos is the middle lens.
Maybe it is something weird with mine. You can check this by covering the other lenses with your finger
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dude, everyone can see the lens switching, the telephoto one have OIS, i use the zoom all the time, if i cover the telephoto lens i cant see anything, so yes the telephoto is fully functional and not a made up marketing, in pie they even added a toggle to the HDR mode so you can get HDR pictures using it faster. (in adroid oreo you can manually zoom until 3x on HDR but now alot easier). the only times you cant use it and the phone will switch back to the main lens, is:
1. At Night or when theres not enough light.
2.If you try to focus a object that is just too close.

djlukas1983 said:
You must use it in enough bright environment because it won't switch to zoom lens when it's not enough bright.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was wondering why my indoor 3x zoom pics were so poor. I had tried covering the zoom lens in the past, proving that it actually does switch between the two lenses. What I didn't realize until now, is that when the camera doesn't have enough light, the zoom lens isn't used and the 3x becomes a digital zoom using the main (middle) lens. You can easily see this by turning on the 3x zoom, covering it up, and shifting a live view from a bright window to a dark area inside - when pointing outside the lens is blocked, but when you swing around and point the camera inside you can see the image (because it is no longer using the 2x lens).
That explains the poor indoor zoom shots I've been taking - thanks!!
Now I still need to find out what the monochrome lens is actually doing in colour photos. Playing with blocking the lens only seems to have an effect in monochrome mode, but it is supposed to contribute to capturing all photos. Any suggestions...?

Question Camera motion blur

Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough

mtm1401 said:
Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone?

it's a samsung thing. i have never had a samsung that did not do this. GCAM is a decent work around though. some people try the live picture setting, others try taking video and screenshotting the frame they want, there is a noticeable loss in quality doing that though.

Question #HELP! Blurry photos with 1x

Hi, I noticed today that when I take photos with 1x, it seems like lack of focus.
With wide camera, 3x, and 10x, the results are fine and sharp. Just the main 1x is the problem.
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
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Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
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Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
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Anyone has this issue? Any idea how to fix it?
Things I have done:
- factory reset, clear camera cache.
I am running One UI 4 Beta 1.
Samsung S21 Ultra Snapdragon 5G

Shaky hands?

babyboy3265 said:
Shaky hands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so, if it's the case, the pro mode will also produce blurry one. It only happens with indoor photo.
I have turned off scene optimizer & focus enhancer as well.

You may have a too dark room to take photos

tessut said:
You may have a too dark room to take photos
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Click to collapse
It's 12 PM and the light is everywhere. Not sure why the pro mode and 4:3 did better details tho?
Do you think my unit is faulty? Did factory reset and still the same

Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...

blackhawk said:
Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com

Sky33 said:
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.

blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again

Sky33 said:
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. It happens again.
Hmm there are actually people also having this problem.
S21 ultra 5g 1x camera auto focus issue.
So I'm on vacation in Arizona and was trying to take photos at the grand canyon. Normal 1x camera is stuck won't focus, pictures come out blurry. All other camera lenses work great. What is the problem, spent a lot of money on this phone for the camera and when I need it, it doesn't work...
us.community.samsung.com

What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.

daniel_loft said:
What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just took the full resolution, they are 1800x4000.
The only difference is the main camera is blurry, while the other cameras work well, sharp fine photos

Even if you put your phone in one spot and you are not holding it in your hands the photos from the main cam still come up blurry?

@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.

daniel_loft said:
@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms

Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.

blackhawk said:
Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/

Sky33 said:
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Return it if not happy.
If anything it should be better than the 10+'s AF.
I got a second new N10+ 2 weeks ago because both Samsung latest and Android 11 didn't thrill me.

Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is peculiar. Have you a different photo app?

Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my late response but I've been rather busy lately.
I kept on looking at the two sets of pictures and I must say there are some interesting things happening there. I assumed that the objects in focus are the boxes of Crunchies and the chair on the grass, respectively. I took a look at the EXIF data and it might explain a lot.
Indoor picture:
Auto: The blur seems to be caused by movement. If the exposure time is correct (1 s) than it is very much explainable. I'm not sure how capable Samsung's OIS is, but from my experience 4 stops is what OIS would compensate for and there are approx 5 stops (1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1) between pro and auto exposure times.
Pro: The exposure time is just about right for a clear shot (1/50 sec). The exposure seems to be calculated differently, for whatever reason.
Outdoor picture:
Auto: Same as before, there is a 1 sec exposure time.
Pro: The photo seems to be more sharpened in pro mode.
I would recommend you wipe the cache of the camera app and try again. If the results are not improving then try wiping the data of the camera app. If things are still blurry, call Samsung service center. There is a possibility that your camera module is not properly calibrated.