i have the kodak easy share C1013 which has 10 mega pixels apparently. but the problem is my phones comes blurry what ever i do, even if the flash is on for some reason, but this only happens indoors and even if the lights are on...if anyone here is good in camera, can they help me pls
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=7783291#post7783291
see the third photo on this thread i clicked it with the flash on
Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.
Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?
wdfowty said:
Are you using a manual setting? Have you dropped the camera? How close are you shooting?
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i have tried both manual and automatic, but both come out blurry. the camera has never been droped and this occur only indoors even if there is plently of light.
jaszek said:
Well the third photo the picture is recular out of focus. The problem with Point and SHoots is that they take a while to focus (especially in low light) and (this with all cmeras) the shutter speed has to be much lower for the sensor to gather more light...and P&S's have tiny sensors compared to an APS-C, CMOS, ir a full frame sensor. But you should just retake that shot making sure the camera is focused and maybe add some more light on the subject to make it easier for the camera.
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i alway focus my camera properly, when ever the focus is right, the box thing becomes green. how to lower the shutter speed i will take some photo with plenty of light. also the the the third photo was taken in a room full of light and also with the flash on
You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.
You could also check settings for your focus point. It could be set to spot focus off center, I've seen it before.
ohyeahar said:
You mentioned that the room is well lit. But perhaps you are standing in front of the light and casting a shadow on your subject?
You mentioned that the camera has locked focus before you fully pressed the shutter. But with inadequate lighting, perhaps the camera is focusing on the wrong spot?
Some cameras have a light that comes on when you half-press the shutter to help the camera focus in low-light. If your camera has this, then make sure you enable it.
Also, if you didn't crop the photo, then perhaps you are holding the camera too close to your subject. Try backing off at least 2 or 3 feet. Then crop the photo with an editor to exclude anything you don't want.
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i tried what you said and see the pics i uploaded, but still i dont find the quality of a 10 megapixel camera tho
For those types of pics you need a camera with a macro feature/setting.
good day.
The 3rd and 6th photos are blurry because your subject spans a large depth of field. In those two photos, the base of the iPhone is close to your camera while the top of the iPhone is far away. The distance between these 2 points is too large for your camera to handle (especially under those lighting conditions). Your camera needs a smaller aperture setting than it can handle for those shots.
(In the 3rd photo, the camera seems to have focused on the farthest point. Notice that the top is in focus but the bottom is blurred. In the 6th photo, it's the opposite. Notice that you can clearly see the cracks in the cardboard box on the bottom while the top is blurred.)
The others look on par with what you should expect from your camera under those lighting conditions.
Remember that more megapixels doesn't mean better quality.
The following is just a tip. Lighting is important. Try to take your pictures with sunlight. Don't depend on your camera flash. If you use your flash aimed directly at your subject to compensate for lack of lighting, your pics will look terrible more often than not. (I see from the reflection off the rear of your iPhone that you're using a lamp as your primary source of light. That's not adequate...)
Shallow depth of field is not a bad thing with good lighting. It allows you to highlight certain aspects of your subject. See the following examples.
1st Pic, 2nd Pic, 3rd Pic
The 2nd pic draws your eyes to the bottom right corner while the 3rd pic draws them towards to the top left.
These were also taken indoors with a 10MP camera. But I used my Nikon D60 with SB-400 speedlight to bounce the flash off the ceiling.
It seems some camera options are not very well documented. Thought I would start a thread to share tricks to help improve photos. There is another thread for tips and tricks but that one focuses on other things. Since camera is one of the highlights of this phone I figured a dedicated thread was worth it.
Here are a few I found. Feel free to share yours!
1. When tapping to focus on a point, if you do a long touch instead, it will set a focus point but add a second movable frame for exposure so you can have an exposure point that is not your focus point (IE focus on someone but expose for highlights)
2. If short tapping to focus, you can then tap/drag the focus point up or down to adjust exposure level (exposure compensation).
3. From my early tests, it looks like the camera hdr is better at recovering shadows instead of highlights. When having high contrast scene, change exposure so the highlights are better exposed when looking at picture frame. Shadow details will come out better (don't over exaggerate this or shadows will remain too dark). Adjusting exposure for shadows never seem to recover highlights properly.
4. I've seen some reviews where pixel 3 has a better exposure using their night scene function. If the mate night function yeilds results too dark, you can force the time and Iso to use (tap the icons in bottom left and right). So far I found that if I look at the picture info and see the auto mode exposed say 4 sec with Iso 400, usually keeping 4 sec but doubling Iso (800 in that case), will produce a better exposure similar to the pixel. I don't want to get into color/detail comparison between the 2 devices.. This is just to get a better exposure. Guessing they'll sort this out in a future update.
For now that's what I found that didn't feel intuitive.
Please share your findings!
Let me share my suggestions:
1. In case of pro mode ,shutter speed is restricted to 30s of exposure whereas night mode can give up to 52s (max I have seen) exposure.
2. You can try different light painting modes to achieve low-light shots as well. I tried with star trails and got good results ( but exposure gets throttled and(or) locked at some point.
3. in Pro mode, If you are taking low-light snaps in an enclosed area such that your flashlight can reach, then you will get very good photos for reasonably smaller exposure times.
4. Use tripods for all night shots (bluetooth trigger will make it even better), don't rely on stabilization unless there is ample light and that exposure time will be around 1/125 , because even night mode can be affected despite the claim that OIS stabilization will be sufficient.
5. lowering the exposure while taking close-up flash photography will help in partially retaining data that would have been lost due to flash overexposure.
Thanks,
Rakesh
Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough
mtm1401 said:
Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough
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Click to collapse
Anyone?
it's a samsung thing. i have never had a samsung that did not do this. GCAM is a decent work around though. some people try the live picture setting, others try taking video and screenshotting the frame they want, there is a noticeable loss in quality doing that though.
I have noticed this only while using stock camera, when I turn on the front camera everything looks perfect but within 1 to 2 seconds of taking a picture, the photo gets darkened specifically around eyes and forehead.
I tried disabling Auto HDR/Filters and all sort of optimizations yet I get dark and more saturated photos from stock selfie cam compared to other cameras from play store. Is there any fix to this ?
There is no fix for this.
Hello,
I noticed that certain photos no longer seem to have any HDR applied. Is it when using certain lenses?
I'll see shots that have one part underexposed/too dark. Or, other shots will have blown out highlights too bright. That didn't happen before, because the phone would automatically apply HDR to get good exposure on the bright and dark spots.
Attached is the latest example, where the dark parts of the lighthouse are underexposed, because the camera set the exposure based on the bright clouds.
Anyone else notice that HDR never kicks in? What settings could cause this?
I'm running the Good Lock add-on called "Camera Assistant" so I wonder if that is interfering with HDR? The settings for Camera Assistant are turned off for Picture Softening and Auto lens switching, but I'm not sure why that would prevent auto HDR from kicking on?
In my Samsung camera app, the setting for "Auto HDR" is turned on.
For comparison, I've attached a wide-lens photo showing a more accurate exposure of the same lighthouse. I'm not sure why the normal 1x shot has proper exposure for the lighthouse, but the telephoto shot underexposes the lighthouse? Why didn't the telephoto use HDR like it normally would in earlier versions of the software?