Battery original not original HE328 - Nokia 8 Questions & Answers

Hello
After 1,5 year of use my phone i cracked my screen. I decided to pay for repair screen but Service center said me that only offer replace to new phone Service Centre charge very high for replacing phone. I got my phone back and I decided to replace the screen and by the way the battery itself.
Screen is not original but work However, I have doubts about battery originality:
Original removed from phone looks like this:
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New replacement:
Flex is different and hard to connect to PCB
Many sellers say that is original from Nokia.
Why is available two types of batteries with different flex cable?
Reason I ask is because my new battery working bad only 7-8 hours without using phone. Accu battery showing 45% oryginal capacity.

Looking at ebay it seems that all batteries manufactured in 2017 have the straight power ribbon cable, and the newer ones have the "S" shaped ribbon cable.
Considering the movement of the power plug it might be that the "S" bend was added as a revision to the newer batteries, as the old design could put some stress during plug/unplug of the battery, and that ribbon is quite stiff, as it's made of thick copper to handle the high current.
So all in all it seems possible that the "S" bend is in fact used in 2018 and newer OEM batteries for Nokia 8, but at the same time it's still highly likely that you got either a fake one, or a used/old one with limited capacity.
Sucks that there are no official manuals available for this, and even no real way of verifying if the battery/part is actually original.

Related

[Battery] Chromo Inc Backup Battery 3600mAH

Looks like there is another option out in the market for adding battery to the Note 2. I currently have the Anker 6400mAH extended Battery. However this does pose a good alternative since it adds less in theback and just a tad bit more in the bottom.
Backup Battery
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Has anybody purchased or tried out? I'm curious to hear what people think. I may get it as a test dummy and report back.
Don't have experience with such case batteries, but I have spoken to someone who has. This particular type you mentioned above is very common on Amazon/ebay in 3200/3600/4000 flavors. It makes phone longer because of the bulk at the bottom and you can't access S-pen anymore - a big negative. There is an alternative someone got from ebay - 3200 mAh version: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350655154588&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123
It doesn't make the case longer and keeps the bottom open to access s-pen. The down side of this particular case and other battery flip cases is an average of 500mA Input which makes them charge up very slowly, and the same 500mA-700mA Output which charges the phone slowly as well. Also keep in mind output mAh is rated for 5V output while our battery is 3.7V which means down conversion eats into efficiency of the output thus output capacity will be lower.
Hmmmm didn't consider s pen access. Good point. That other option is interesting. I wonder how it affects NFC.
Sent from my Note II

[Q] Xiaomi PowerBank REAL or FAKE?

Hi, I wanna ask if my PB is original. I already asked in miui forum but didn't get satisfied answer, so i decided to ask you guys
My PB has a some fake outside look indications, like all beige usb port, full white mi logo, and dark text on bottom. But I'm still confused whether it's real or fake because it has short circuit protection, led will turn off if I hold power button when charging, and can charge the phone while it connected to power adapter. (also the usb cable comes in clean, well built plastic finish, and doesn't has mi or usb logo on it, & box package is made of plastic coated cardboard & has security label & unique code, some said the fake one code also granted as original or the codes are legit??)
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MORE PICS
http://en.miui.com/thread-19104-1-1.html
I would say yours is fake.
I visited that thread several times before i posted here. This was my thoughts, but somehow my security geniune key was verified as an original. Also few peoples have the exact PB condition as mine, two of them opened the case and have LG battery in it.
lesp4ul said:
I visited that thread several times before i posted here. This was my thoughts, but somehow my security geniune key was verified as an original. Also few peoples have the exact PB condition as mine, two of them opened the case and have LG battery in it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes i have like yours, and after torn apart its LG batteries inside, so its original...:good:
and here's what you get (free) with fake product
https://twitter.com/prasadthombre/status/618831008658362368

Broken Tablet Battery Pack

Hi everyone, I have a Raspberry Pi Model B+, I'm very new to Raspberry Pi and learning as i go along,
I have a broken Tablet lying around, most parts in it will probably be too advanced for me to deal with right now,(like a 8.9 inch 1080p samsung panel) or possibly not even worth it
anyways, one thing that is interesting is the battery pack that's in it
it is not very old, and got 2 of them in it,
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I read around and know that generally I would need a regulator to prevent overly powering the pi, but havn't seen a tutorial with something like this
Does anyone know what this is? i put the code on google and i find nothing.
or any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
thanks
Like other batteries
If you open any battery of an old phone, you can see those chips, so I suppose they are to control the amperage and the voltage provided by the battery, and also to control the charge.
Take a look to all that numbers and take note of the followed by V and mA. To fit well with the raspberry i suppose, V must be around 5, which is the voltage recommended for the pi chargers. For a bigger mA, the battery will give you more time of use.
These are all suppositions. I'd try to connect it. I don't think you can transform your pi on a brick by doing that...
This isn't worth doing. As commendable as it is to re-use old parts, a $10 cellphone booster from ebay can power a pi for a few hours per charge and is basically plug-and-play, with charging and regulator circuitry built-in.
Agreed with @Chris J.
Lithium Ion's are dangerous unless you know what you are doing.
You need to have a proper charger for it (ni-cd or ni-mh chargers will not do; they have a consistent voltage output until they are just about dead, compared to li-ions, which have a mostly linear discharge cycle from 4.2V until they reach around 3.6V).

Mysterious Tab 2 Issue

Hello, new here!
Always been stalking around here, decided to finally give in and ask for some help.
(edit; I think this should be relocated to the troubleshooting section, sorry!)
Long story short, I received this tablet because it was broken and no longer turned on.
Ordered a new mainboard and it was still dead.
The battery will not charge with the new mainboard, but will with the old one.
A charged battery will not turn on the old mainboard, but will with the new one.
Here is how I am currently charging it:
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The old board is lying ontop of a plastic bag that is ontop of the new board.
Only the battery connector and USB are attached to the old one.
As you can see, it is drawing about 0.41A.
After a while of charging via the old board, I hookup the new board again.
It works, but it slowly drains back down to zero even while plugged in.
It only draws 0.07A in that state.
I tried a new battery as well, but that didn't help.
I have no idea what could be wrong with it, besides getting another dud mainboard.
About ready to give up, but I have invested so much time into this, it would be a shame to do that.
Any ideas about the mystery of why it isn't charging at any descent rate with the new board?
I have tried countless different chargers, the cable and connectors seem fine.
Shameless bump?

Looking for spare part. Digitizer connector. (?)

Hey guys!
My phone started having troubles with the touch (how unexpected right?)
Well, the thing is, when I was gonna remove the digitizer connector cable, I tried pulling the black plastic thing backwards instead of flipping it up.
Reason I did this was because I've repaired a few laptops and they had the type of connector were you pull the plastic thing back to release the connector.
The black plastic thing broke off in half so now I can't securely connect the digitizer anymore.
So, question is, can I get a replacement? I took one from another old HTC phone but it's not the correct one. (Lenght wise is correct, but not with the holes for the pins)
At 1:54 it shows the thing I'm talking about.
Youtube link (imbedded link didnt work)
Also attaches a printscreen of it for less hassle.
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The black plastic piece that shows is the one I'm talking about!
Better view:
I don't even know the name of these parts so I don't even know what to search for. Please help me out guys.
Probably best way is to buy a new complete connector and remove the black plastic piece and fasten it onto the phones one.
Kind regards,
Tony
EDIT: Note sure if it's the same, but found this on ebay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10Pcs-Clamshell-Type-Bottom-Port-6Pin-0-5mm-Pitch-FFC-FPC-Sockets-Connector-/231679255046?hash=item35f128e206:g:ry4AAOSwHnFV7Psd
Is this the same type?
Nobody?

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