I dont know if anyone else is experiencing this, but i have a att tilt with dutty's tilt rom and when i use the GPS and bluetooth, or just bluetooth or just GPS the device overheats to 105-115+ degrees. So when i am using bluetooth and or gps and its being charged the battery still runs out.
What should i do?
I noticed a similar overheating issue but the trigger for me is Live Messenger: when connected, the device gets hot very quickly and battery gets drained in a matter of hours.
My wife has an Elf, and can have Live Messenger connected for a full day, the device stays cold and battery is just fine...
yes this has happend to me with the tilt and 8525. I dont know whether this a defect or security measures from preventing the battery from overheating!
overheating---what i have seen
I just did a cross country trip with mine, here is what i saw. It didnt matter which program i used that needed gps, (co -pilot, or live search) as long as the gps was activated.
When the gps is active, the unit will start to heat up, when it reaches a certain point, it will stop charging. You can do a soft reset and the device will start charging for a bit more, but then stop charging (the charging light goes out)....
If you turn off the gps, it will continue to charge, even though it is still hot.
I put the unit in front of the air conditioned duct and after about 30 seconds, the charging light came back on and it resumed charging.
So it appears to be an intentional function that does not allow overheating of the batteries.....problem is what if you are out of juice and you need to go somewhere ?
i have a bt gps i could use instead, but it kinda defeats the purpose....
OK seems i am not alone on this,
here's my case, i mainly use my TYTN II as a modem to share internet through USB to the laptop, i notice, when i connect to 3G, it gets very hot and and the heat generated, prevented my TYTN II from recharging over the USB hence i am running a drained battery
secondly, i was using my GPS in my car. when the room temperature is low, it was ok, heat generated as normal (over heating) but recharging still going ok, but by the time i gets daylight, and the room temp in my car getting high, i notice that the heat generated by the TYTN II has once again prevented it from recharging, kind of safe mode?
Its seems like it is a security measure. I noticed, while driving on days when its very hot, i would turn on my air condition, and my 8525 would be placed in front of the air ducts. I would have my phone running slingmobile and charging for long periods of time while im jammed in afterwork traffic, and noticed that as long as the cool air was keeping the back of the phone cool, my phone would continously charge! Now when im at work and i would have my phone sitting up on my desk running slingmobile and charging, within an hour or less, the charge would stop and my light would start blinking. I touch the back of it, and guess what it blazing hot! Ive seen similar actions with my tilt as well!
Hi
I don't think there is much to be done about this. Essentially there is lot of chips packed inside a very tiny device. There are no external vents (not possible or very practical with a phone as vents would weaken the case and allow dirt in), or fans for forced cooling.
Once you start something that means the device is on and working, heat builds up.
Most electronic components can go up to quite a high temperature (so hot you couldn't hold it type temperatures) and continue to work fine, however the battery is one thing that can't be used hot due to the chemistry involved, so the charging has to stop.
It's a built in flaw due to the complexity and small size, something that will affect all similar types of device.
Regards
Phil
I had the same problem beofore when using in my car when navigating with GPS
I found it was the screen beeing on.
In Garmin Mobile XT there is a function to turn down screen and open only when there are directions comming. This made my device be at normal temp again.
I think the screen just produces allot of heat. also the sceen uses alot of electric and that heats up battery and charging hardware also
princeasi said:
Its seems like it is a security measure. I noticed, while driving on days when its very hot, i would turn on my air condition, and my 8525 would be placed in front of the air ducts. I would have my phone running slingmobile and charging for long periods of time while im jammed in afterwork traffic, and noticed that as long as the cool air was keeping the back of the phone cool, my phone would continously charge! Now when im at work and i would have my phone sitting up on my desk running slingmobile and charging, within an hour or less, the charge would stop and my light would start blinking. I touch the back of it, and guess what it blazing hot! Ive seen similar actions with my tilt as well!
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Click to collapse
hi princeasi,
apparently, this has always been the case with my previous PDA's. as far as i could remember, my hermes did the same thing. i remember when i tried to use it in my room, where air con is turned off. it didn't really need a very high room temperature, it would simply stop charging. and guess what, even my atom life was the same!
So I was going to purchase the official htc car dock and I came across problems such as the phone failing to save the dock settings and overheating when placed in the car dock.
Can anyone whose has the dock please confirm if this is true? Does cyanogenmod allows the dock settings to be saved?
Umm..Since the Google store Closed today, where are you intending on buying the dock?
Also Most Phones will get hot when charging and using GPS Navigation and the same time, my G1 overheated and N1 does get warm.
Its becuase the Battery is being drained real fast, and trying to charged simulatneously.
Why don't they make some sort of circuit, that could bypass charging the batt. temporialy and run the phone off ac?
I have found that when charging, using GPS / Navigation and in the hot sun the N1 will get very hot. In fact I've had two sudden reboots which I believe were overheating.
It works fine if you only plug in the charger for short periods of time ... which is enough to keep it going.
The BT speakerphone worked well with the stock FroYo but I think there may be issues with CM6.0 RTM. The BT connects but I've only had a couple of calls and I am not sure if it was using the N1's speakerphone or the car mount's speakerphone.
I have had one or two calls not use the dock for audio and instead use the built in speaker, but other than that it's great. The phone gets warm, but so does using the wall charger that came with the phone. It has never overheated.
But as mentioned before, unless you have already purchased the dock you are probably out of luck. I don't know where you could buy one now that the store is closed.
The N1 has a bug whereas sometimes when it's plugged in being charged, the touch screen goes wacky and becomes either unresponsive or the touch positions are way off. I've found that simply pressing the top button to turn the screen off then back on fixes it right away.
This is probably the issue you're been reading about. That aside the dock is great and have no qualms recommending it.
wrinklefree said:
The N1 has a bug whereas sometimes when it's plugged in being charged, the touch screen goes wacky and becomes either unresponsive or the touch positions are way off. I've found that simply pressing the top button to turn the screen off then back on fixes it right away.
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Click to collapse
i've had that too, but not when it was docked, i was playing skies of glory and downloading something via 3G in the background, and it was pretty hot outside, so it did the same thing..
about the car dock, the phone does get hot, but it never failed me inside the car dock, you can also turn your A/C to go to the windscreen to keep it a bit cooler.
With Eclair i had the problem that when it was in the dock and i got a call it never actually used the dock for the phone call, now in Froyo that works just fine, i get a call, the trackball flashes blue and i can hear and talk through the dock audio.
It's definetly worth buying, i didn't have any major issues with it yet!
wrinklefree said:
The N1 has a bug whereas sometimes when it's plugged in being charged, the touch screen goes wacky and becomes either unresponsive or the touch positions are way off. I've found that simply pressing the top button to turn the screen off then back on fixes it right away.
This is probably the issue you're been reading about. That aside the dock is great and have no qualms recommending it.
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Click to collapse
I have this problem too. Do all n1s have this? I was about to return mine.
How to avoid "reboot" on "ignition" and "sleep" on turning off the car
I have a 6,95inch autopumpkin carkit with Malyask Firmware and it actually runs just perfect.
Except for 2 things that are really annoying:
when the autoradio is already switched on but the car engine not running and I switch the start key to start the engine I get a short:"shutting down/reboot" on my carkit device and it takes a while for it's back online with all the background programs running. It shouldn't reboot/shutdown.
Maybe some wire I connected wrong? How can I avoid this? that's my first issue.
The 2nd is even more important. I use the device to keep a log on my tracks using mycartracks. And it works just fine. However, each time I get at the place of destination I have to leave the unit switched on for a while (30seconds no movement) for the mycartracks to understand my current track has to be stopped and next time a new track has to be recorded.
Sometimes I'm in a hurry, I forget to wait. If that happens in the evening when returning home, next day when I start the car the unit thinks I'm still driving my track of the previous day so instead of recording a new track, its continuing the track of the previous day. So the log and statistics aren't accurate and I manually have to fix the tracks with a manually edited GPX data file which is A LOT of work!
To avoid this, when I switch off the unit, it should simply keep running in the background for a few minutes. Black screen but not shutting down altogether.
Now from what I can see, the unit however doesn't go completely offline! Because I can set it to 30 minutes or 1 hour or 2 hours in "sleep" when turning off the car and that actually does work. Because when I start the car within that time, it doesn't start from scratch but simply lights up the display and everything is already booted. So there is power in the background keeping the unit in this "sleep" modus. So there must be some internal power supply or still using the car battery for this modus? But how can I use that, to avoid the unit to go into sleep immediately after the car is turned off?
So what I want:
when I shut off the car, the unit keep running at least a few more minutes before auto sleep/shutdown
when I start the car, don't reboot/shutdown but simply keep running.
Any ideas here how to accomplish that?
Thank you all for your advise on forehand.
I know I can add an additional battery in the car behind the unit to give the unit some more power for 10 or 20 minutes and I also can design the electrical wiring to make sure the power is going to the unit and not backwards to the car battery. That's not the issue. The issue is, I think the unit has already a permanent power supply from the car battery and I simply want to wire it, that it doesn't go to sleep/shutdown instantly and doesn't reboot/shutdown upon starting the car. That must be possible without installing additional power supply.
So I hope someone has an idea how to wire it properly without me testing how to do that.
I'm curious about how much power it is using while it is in sleep, because if it is not that much I would prefer to hardly ever let it cold boot.
Ultima_Thule01 said:
I'm curious about how much power it is using while it is in sleep, because if it is not that much I would prefer to hardly ever let it cold boot.
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Click to collapse
You mean as in: " connect the red wire to the permanent +12V line?"
I could put an Ampere-meter between tomorrow and have a reading. Since I replaced the battery in the car, original 48Ah at 12V, with a 64Ah at 12V,
that gives me addition 16Ah.
Or, if in sleep it uses 0,5Ampere I can keep it running for 32 hours without getting below the original battery energy supply.
Or if in sleep it uses 0,2Ampere I can keep it running 80 hours without touching the original 48Ah.
But I'm sure it'll be lower than 0,1 ampere because even with the 1 hour delayed shutdown after ACC switched off, after just 10 minutes the unit is pretty cold again.
So I'm sure it draws very few Ampere in sleep modus.
But point is, in sleep all background programs don't run anymore and thus the track recording isn't working either and thus doesn't recognize that the track recording should
be stopped as the car isn't moving anymore.
duiveldoder said:
when the autoradio is already switched on but the car engine not running and I switch the start key to start the engine I get a short:"shutting down/reboot" on my carkit device and it takes a while for it's back online with all the background programs running. It shouldn't reboot/shutdown.
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Click to collapse
Not sure it's a wiring issue; mine does that too. Pretty sure it's because the car is designed to cut power to things when the ignition is first turning so all the battery's power can go to the starter and not get wasted on things like headlights.
Or, we both have it wired incorrectly; I'm certainly no expert.
---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------
As for MyCarTracks;
I assume it's a similar issue. My dashcam constantly records 1-minute videos and pieces them together. When I take the unit out (and it loses power) the most recent file is lost because the unit was powered off before it was saved.
Perhaps both issues can be remedied by running a fused line directly to the battery (thus bypassing the the part that cuts all power when the car turns off). I'm assuming you've already adjusted the setting to try to get the head unit to sleep for two hours upon being turned off instead of instantly turning off.
NYCAR said:
Not sure it's a wiring issue; mine does that too. Pretty sure it's because the car is designed to cut power to things when the ignition is first turning so all the battery's power can go to the starter and not get wasted on things like headlights.
Or, we both have it wired incorrectly; I'm certainly no expert..
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As engineer I can assure you everything is wired correctly and you're right the design of a car is that most of the power goes to start the engine. But it's not like you make it sound like there's a switch that cuts off power to other parts of the car.
The theory behind it is very simple: The inner resistor of the car engine is simply much lower than the other devices. So all the current goes through there and not enough current through headlights and car stereo.
it's like this: you have a flow of 100 liters of water per second. 1 watermill needs 20 l/s and another 20l/s and few others each 10l/s now you split the water stream in 2 parts. 1 part is 10cm deep and 10cm wide and the other part is 10cm deep and 90cm wide (that's the car engine)
of course for all the other users there isn't enough water anymore.. used to be initially, but now not anymore. So I don't really cut them off, it's just most of the water goes through the 90x10 canal.
If I close that canal of 90x10, I still have my 10x10 left, but now there's again 100l/s so it just flows faster (higher voltage) (which is 12Volt as the battery doesn't get higher) which means logically while you still have 12volts on your car engine starter, the voltage of the rest drops
along with the current(ampere)
so you don't have anything in your car that switches off or cuts the current/voltage of headlights, radio, etc. It's just you're opening with the car engine a wide canal that allows massive ampere and all the 12volt on it, so not much left for the other users.
To avoid this, I could install a 2nd 12 volt battery behind the car radio, with a 1-way diode and a small 50Watt 0,3Ohm to prevent a shortcut parallel with the car battery so it's loaded together with the car battery but when starting the car engine there's no voltage drop behind it to the car radio
nor is there any current flowing backwards. that would work. But obviously INSIDE the radio there's a condensator or internal battery strong enough to keep the unit in sleep mode for at least 1 hour and that should be sufficient to instead of sleeping 1 hour keep it running for a few minutes.
That's a firmware question. Since there are firmware guys here online, malyask i.e. one of them might be able to reprogram the firmware so I don't need to install additional equipment.
NYCAR said:
As for MyCarTracks;
I assume it's a similar issue. My dashcam constantly records 1-minute videos and pieces them together. When I take the unit out (and it loses power) the most recent file is lost because the unit was powered off before it was saved.
Perhaps both issues can be remedied by running a fused line directly to the battery (thus bypassing the the part that cuts all power when the car turns off). I'm assuming you've already adjusted the setting to try to get the head unit to sleep for two hours upon being turned off instead of instantly turning off.
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Click to collapse
yes tried that. but "sleeping" before shutdown is really shutting down all background software including Wireless so that's no help. Also when having an additional power unit that could maintain the unit to keep running for at least 1 hour, taking out the car keys would still
put the unit into sleep
It's really the firmware that needs to be changed a bit.
What about a 330uF capacitor on the ACC+, behind a diode? I did that the first day after I've installed my HU, never regretted.
sorinakis said:
What about a 330uF capacitor on the ACC+, behind a diode? I did that the first day after I've installed my HU, never regretted.
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330microfarad? That's enough? Wow! Never expected that few energy would be sufficient.
Can you state the precise brand, model, of the capacitor? of if you can't remeber anymore, what type: i.e. 14 Volts, 330uF, and Elektrolyt, Frolyt, etc?
btw, if I switch off the car and thus 0V on the acc+, how long the unit still has before shutting off?
I mean, I really need it to keep going for at least 1 minute that's the absolute minimum. 330uF won't be enough I'm sure. But if you can overcome 3 or 4 seconds already,
it means, I'd need a 20 times larger capacity of course. thus 6000-7000uF
With a 330uF/25v behind a 1N4001 (both recovered from some old project), I get about 8 seconds of holding the HU on. My problem was that, after turning off the car but leaving the radio on (on ACC), when I wanted to turn the engine on, the HU was shutting-down then coming back.
I think that, for keeping the HU on ~30 seconds, I would go with a 2200uF/25v (be prepared with a 4700uF in case you don't get enough time with the 2200). The HU gets it's main power from BAT+, the ACC+ just goes to a GPIO pin and sends a "soft power" signal, hence you don't get a huge power consumption on that rail.
If you are going that route, why not a timer delay with a 555? Please keep in mind that I am just throwing terms around. I did some 555 projects in the past, but nothing that required enough power to run a head unit.
This might be something.
https://www.amazon.com/GERI-Delay-R...rd_wg=sN6Ca&psc=1&refRID=7HA9ZFGPQZ8VSQT19K05
in the same line: why not using a PIC and programming the time interval to the second? or why not using an Arduino timer? or a TCO RTC such as DS3231? although valid questions, I see no need for such complication when, as I said before, the power consumption on the ACC+ rail is negligible, so a simple R/C (without external R) would do the job. Of course, any other implementation of any kind of timer will work.
NYCAR said:
If you are going that route, why not a timer delay with a 555? Please keep in mind that I am just throwing terms around. I did some 555 projects in the past, but nothing that required enough power to run a head unit.
This might be something.
https://www.amazon.com/GERI-Delay-R...rd_wg=sN6Ca&psc=1&refRID=7HA9ZFGPQZ8VSQT19K05
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Although I can see how this GERI Delay Relay will work postponing a switch-on, but how will it delay a switch off command?
If it's a signal, it's clear it can do that. But a car unit doesn't work that way (correct me if I'm wrong). It's a +12volt means switching on and once the voltage drops to 0Volt it's going into shutdown/sleep
This GERI catches a 12V signal to switch on and another 12V to switch off. So it just sends the voltage as an impulse, if I got it right? But not that it maintains the voltage over a longer period of time.
So I don't see how it could work with a car unit?
A capacitor indeed can maintain the 12V for a longer period (depending on the capacity and frolyt, elektrolyt, etc.) it will drop eventually to 11 volts.. then 10 volts...
and then a sudden drop to 2 or 1 volts. That's basically how the capacitor works and any voltage over 9.5 or 9.8 the head unit won't consider to shut down.
I know at 8 volts it's shutting down and at 10,5 it won't shut down. Not sure exactly where the exact value is where it will consider shutdown or remain powered.
I did a project in the past where;
1) Constant voltage went into a pin
2) Switched voltage went into another pin
3) When the switch at "2" was turned off, there would still be output for a certain period of time, then it turned off.
As for the GERI not being correct; I have no reason to dispute you. I am certainly not an electrical engineer and the project I mentioned above took hours of research on my end because that is not my background at all.
I did see other boards that appear to be exactly what is needed (and cost only two bucks on ebay), but they delay shutoff to a maximum of ten seconds and seem outside the parameters of what OP needs.
As I have proven my knowledge to be well below that of other people on this thread, I'll keep quiet now.
NYCAR said:
I did a project in the past where;
1) Constant voltage went into a pin
2) Switched voltage went into another pin
3) When the switch at "2" was turned off, there would still be output for a certain period of time, then it turned off.
As for the GERI not being correct; I have no reason to dispute you. I am certainly not an electrical engineer and the project I mentioned above took hours of research on my end because that is not my background at all.
I did see other boards that appear to be exactly what is needed (and cost only two bucks on ebay), but they delay shutoff to a maximum of ten seconds and seem outside the parameters of what OP needs.
As I have proven my knowledge to be well below that of other people on this thread, I'll keep quiet now.
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Hi NYCAR,
from your response I figure you understood me saying that I knew how it all works.
I probably didn't write correct what I wanted to ask, because I didn't actually want to say anything but my whole previous response was meant as :"QUESTION"
everything I wrote was meant as a question.. asking like:'does it do this?" or "does it work like that?"
My questions, because on the pictures I can only see a 100uF capacitor. So logically if the 12V on the input size drops, it can maintain 12V on the output only as long as 100uF will last.
Also I don't really get the AC one side and DC other side. In a car I only have DC, at least in my car.
But I doubt there are that many cars that can handle AC as normal car batteries are all DC logically.
You'd first have a DC/AC convertor
But I might just get it all wrong. That's why asking.
But I think for simplicity, the previous answer with the capacitor is the easiest part. logically current only flows through a closed circuit.
So with a diode prevent backwards current, you'll force the full ampere through the HU.
And I found, based on the technical advise from the other poster, this one https://octopart.com/ecr1ept472mff751631-jianghai-24161819
which should be able to keep the unit running for a while. If 330UF keeps the unit running for 7 more seconds, assume 5.
Than 4700 will be at least 71 seconds which is more than my 60seconds which I need as minimum.
Actually the minimum I have with mycartracks is 10 seconds but I always set it to 30 seconds so the unit doesn't think at each stop sign/traffic light, etc
that I am starting a new track. That's why I set it to 30 seconds. So when I switch off the car, I need 30 seconds for the mycartrack to understand the recording must be stopped.
than I need another 2-3 seconds to save the track and another 2-3 seconds to upload online. That's why I consider 60 seconds a safe value and with 71 seconds I'm over that
and that's based on 5 seconds on a 330uF but 330uF actually gives you 7 seconds. So I have more than enough reserves with just a little 2USD piece of hardware
As posted, the ACC doesn't really draw much Ampere so any cheap capacitor will do I guess.
But anyway thank you for pointing out the GERI! As I will buy one anyway but for another project of mine for which this device is perfect
I'm sure you explained correctly. I should have mentioned in my post that I was only stating what I meant as a way to 1) explain what I intended by my initial advice and 2) show my ignorance in electronics to hopefully forgive the fact that I posted a link to a device that you say is completely incorrect for the intended project.
NYCAR said:
I'm sure you explained correctly. I should have mentioned in my post that I was only stating what I meant as a way to 1) explain what I intended by my initial advice and 2) show my ignorance in electronics to hopefully forgive the fact that I posted a link to a device that you say is completely incorrect for the intended project.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
And I want to say that I don't know if it's completely incorrect
Just doesn't seem to do what I intend to do. But maybe it does, that's why my questioning.
I studied some more on the device and found now this, at least that's how I assume it to work:
As far as I can tell, on the NO output you always have the DC input. So if it's 12V than it remains 12V.
You switch on 0 Volt, it goes to 0 Volt.
But you have this:'timer running' the moment DC goes to 0V
the relay will switch from the NO to the NC output so you have now 12V on the NC. So for a fraction of a second Voltage will drop to 0V.
That might be short enough for the unit to continue running but it might also be too long. So it might, that the HU still goes into power off.
But even if it's fast enough, assume that it is fast enough relaying, the timer now starts. Meanwhile, the car start is finished and I have +12V on the NO again
but the timer is running. Again a short 0V drop.
It doesn't say anywhere, that it'll now reset the timer so next time I go to 0V on the DC again (stop the car engine) the timer again gives me 30 or more seconds.
So basically, if it does reset the timer when 12+ again is on the ACC then it might work, apart from the short 0V drops during the relay switching.
To overcome the relay switching, I might put a capacitor behind the relay to handle that. But it already has a capacitor on the board, so maybe it's just for that.
But 100uF seems very few to fulfill this function. But 4000uF would be an overkill in this situation.
All in all, it might work. Problem I have with it, is that the manual/description is not conclusive to me and 100uF seems a bit few (I must admit that's just out of my stomach)
because if the relay does it's work in 0,00001 seconds 100uF will be more than enough.
Either way, I won't need a 4700uF or even 10.000uF capacitor with this solution if it resets the timer again and again each time +12V is put on it.
So that's my main question. Will the timer be reset each time +12V is on it?
Since this device is only sold in the USA, I need to know precise functionality before I order it to Europe.
I have to send it to a friend of mine in the USA who always takes care of me for US-Only deliveries and then sends it to me here in Europe.
So it's very important I know exactly what I get when I order it. Not for the money, I have enough of that. But waiting 3-4 weeks for shipments .. I don't like waiting hehehe
I'm wondering how much mA the car radio uses on the ACC?
Pure theoretical the Capacitor of 330uF has 0,0003F at 12V
and F = As/V makes As = F*V = 0.0036
If A is now let's say 20mA then 0,0036 would be enough for 0,18 seconds
if it's 2mA then it would be enough for 1,8 seconds
Above it is said, with 330uF it can keep the 12V on the unit (or 9,5 where it switches off) for 6-7 seconds.
which means the current on the ACC should be around 0,6mA?
Is that correct? (ehm, I know it should be less in reality because Voltage drops while the capacitor is unloading but just assume it keeps up for the sake of easy math, I mean it doesn't have to be exact science here just raw getting close to it)
Than a 22000uF at 12 volts with 0,6mA would be enough for, theoretical 440 seconds = over 6 minutes..
But would the ACC really be 0,6mA? I understand it's just a signal and not really powering the device. But 0,6mA?
seems a bit too few for me.
Wait let me get this straight, you guys are discussing ways of keeping from turning off when you crank the engine?
That's really complicated thinking you're doing in that case.
I'm a car electronics technician, I install all kinds of doodads in cars.
What happens is your head unit has a solid 12v coming in, noted as +30.
It also has a 12v coming in when the key is turned to acc.
The one going to your head unit likely drops when the engine is cranked.
If you want to fix that issue it's simply a matter of running a wire, with a fuse of course, 4A will do, from your car's ignition switch to your head unit.
The ignition switch has 2 'switched' 12v wires coming out, one drops to 0v on crank and the other stays up, tee the wire you're running off that, solder it up and use it to connect to your head unit's 12v switched input.
SolidusNL said:
Wait let me get this straight, you guys are discussing ways of keeping from turning off when you crank the engine?
That's really complicated thinking you're doing in that case.
I'm a car electronics technician, I install all kinds of doodads in cars.
What happens is your head unit has a solid 12v coming in, noted as +30.
It also has a 12v coming in when the key is turned to acc.
The one going to your head unit likely drops when the engine is cranked.
If you want to fix that issue it's simply a matter of running a wire, with a fuse of course, 4A will do, from your car's ignition switch to your head unit.
The ignition switch has 2 'switched' 12v wires coming out, one drops to 0v on crank and the other stays up, tee the wire you're running off that, solder it up and use it to connect to your head unit's 12v switched input.
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I can say you're the man. That's Genius I never thought of that. It means that the Yellow Constant +12 I should get from the ignition switch the done that does not drop to 0V during starts up.?
llaugerm said:
I can say you're the man. That's Genius I never thought of that. It means that the Yellow Constant +12 I should get from the ignition switch the done that does not drop to 0V during starts up.?
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Click to collapse
Exactly, you connect the one that doesn't drop during cranking to the yellow wire, that usually drops low when cranking. That way the radio starts up as soon as you switch the ACC on, and not after starting the engine.
1- i had same issue. Capacitor solve my problem, and will solve yours too
Does anyone know if you're going to be able to kill all the Bluetooth radiation or are they going to force you to leave the pain in some kind of Bluetooth State all the time I would like to know if I can toggle it on and off
I work at Verizon and from what my Samsung rep said it doesn't have a normal. Lithlum ion battery it uses some special battery that never goes out. If it dies you can still use it like a spen. It only takes 30 seconds to charge it tho.
Cool but can the actual Bluetooth radiation from the pen and or the phone be toggled off?
im sure it will be like everything other s pen and only be on when ejected from phone
UnicornHub said:
I work at Verizon and from what my Samsung rep said it doesn't have a normal. Lithlum ion battery it uses some special battery that never goes out. If it dies you can still use it like a spen. It only takes 30 seconds to charge it tho.
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The S-Pen doesn't have a battery in it.
Instead, it's equipped with supercapacitor that draws power from the phone instantly when the S-Pen rests in the silo.The supercapacitor is capable of storing energy that provides the required power supply to the Bluetooth radio.
bjmjpl said:
Does anyone know if you're going to be able to kill all the Bluetooth radiation or are they going to force you to leave the pain in some kind of Bluetooth State all the time I would like to know if I can toggle it on and off
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You can do it by keeping the "S-Pen remote" Off in phone settings.
Be noted that to let the S-Pen work as a remote, you will neighter have to toggle the Bluetooth ON nor "nearby device Scanning" ON, in phone settings. The S-Pen doesn't trigger them either. The working of BLE with respect to the S-Pen seems to be hidden.
bjmjpl said:
Cool but can the actual Bluetooth radiation from the pen and or the phone be toggled off?
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Why would you need to turn it off?
It's not standard Bluetooth, it's Bluetooth LE which transmits at much lower power and only for like 3 milliseconds at a time.