Related
I have been very dissapointed with the performance of the X1 camera even after installing the R3 cab. It was imposiible to capture anything that moved because by the time it took the photo my subject had left the vicinity lol.
Following the advice of another poster (sorry, cant remeber who but thanks) I set my focus to infinity. Now, I can take full 3mp, fine quality pics, use the zoom function and capture crisp, clear images...even when the subject is moving. This combined with Resco Photo Viewer has been the final missing piece of the X1 jigsaw.......forget the X2 Ill now keep my X1 for as long as I can
Hah, I will check this out than!
Nice advice, works flawless! The pictures are not shaken anymore...
But tell me: how do you zoom? Does the x1 have the option to zoom?
Cheers
Zooming
Use the volume up and down button. Didnt work with 3mp and auto focus but works a treat now!!
just remember there is no optical zoom only digital zooma, so the more you zoom the worse the picture.
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
oTToToTenTanz said:
Well, even with infinity focus I can't zoom in 3mp mode. It says "cannot zoom in this quality mode". Man. Do you guys use R3A or has it nothing to do with it. Or is there a newer camera program?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, have installed R3A cab so maybe that's the difference with the zoom function. Well worth doing as it also has auto flash and GPS functionality.
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
ring-bearer said:
Still blurry indoors for me. Are y'all saying that this solves that issue for you? Only thing that works to get rid of blur for me is to change to action mode and keep flash on, but pictures are still pretty dim.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The infinity "trick" doesnt effect the ability of camera to take good pics in poor light. It just lets you take good quality pics instantly rather than suffering the lag between button push and photo taken.
Sonus said:
You can zoom as long as the image is set to less than the max (3 mega pixels for the X1). Its always been like this on every WM and nonWM phone I've ever had.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have my camera set for 3mp and fine quality, have just double checked and it seem that with the R3A cab installed the zoom function is available with all of the focus options.
hey thanks for the advice, it really helps.
biernes_atrece said:
i always thought infinity would be the worst option
thnx for the tip!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
flashpanda said:
As a photographer I can hopefully shed some light on this - the percieved 'shutter lag' that most people experience on consumer grade cameras and cellphone cameras has nothing to do with shutters (actually nearlly all of these don't have shutters, but 'hot' shutters where the imaging sensor is just sampled for 1/x seconds), but to do with focus acquisition. On a DSLR, focus is performed using phase-detection using a seperate and extremely quick method (also hence why DSLRs have reflex mirrors).
On cellphones, where there's a far smaller sensor, and no room to beamsplit with mirrors, autofocus is done by measuring contrast on the main sensor, focus is moved in increments from MFD to Infinity, contrast of the image measured, until the sensor detects the maximum available contrast, then focus locked at that point. Because this has to essentially traverse the entire focus range (which admittedly isn't that huge), and is performed on a small sensor with fairly low contrast, the process isn't fast. It is decently accurate though.
By setting the focus to Infinity, the camera doesn't focus, as focus is just fixed at the further possible focal point. This would usually present an out-of-focus issue, (and it still would), but due to the depth of field relationship to sensor size, a camera with a small sensor has a large given depth of field, and, the hyperfocal (the point after which all distances are in acceptable focus) is relatively close, and the depth of field at infinity also encompasses a large slice of distance. Because of this, a large amount of the image will always likely be in focus, especially for stuff that's not right in front of the camera, and the delay of focusing is eliminated, so when you hit the shutter release, the photo just takes, and it's likely in focus just fine
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
harveydent said:
Thanks for the mini lecture. I've been trying to get good bokeh/DOF blur on my X1 and K850, this helps in telling me which settings to focus on (no pun intended)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
flashpanda said:
Heh, you're welcome. If you're trying to get narrow DOF/bokeh effects on your X1 and K850, I'm afraid to say you're pretty much out of luck, the (tiny) imaging sensors on phones leads them to have a very large depth of field at any given aperture. Your best chances for getting the smallest depth of field and best bokeh possible is to have a subject extremely close to the X1, focus near, and have the background seperated and relatively far away.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's what I do, actually I usually include a secondary subject in the background to make the DOF blur easily appreciated.
Plus, I have a modded camdriver for the k850 which allows manual focus. No luck finding one for the X1, though.
Thanks Crank1.
I was getting peeved about the quality of the pics and the lag.
No I get perfect pics every time! (well for a phone camera)
manual focus would be so awesome
I know you can take panoramic photo's with the camera on the phone by taking multiple photos..
But is there an app like on the Taylor swift commercial that you just sweep the camera around the room?
Not that I have seen, but why? That feature works perfectly in the camera, you don't really need an app for this.
I'm pretty sure its basically the same thing. The Samsung camera software just gives you a green box to follow and makes a camera sound when you reach it... you're still sweeping from left to right in real time.
Any way to get higher res panorama with the stock camera? The panorama is 640x480 photos stitched together.
born_fisherman said:
I know you can take panoramic photo's with the camera on the phone by taking multiple photos..
But is there an app like on the Taylor swift commercial that you just sweep the camera around the room?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The phone does this with the built in app. You can move the phone in a sweeping motion and it will take 8 sequential shots. This can be done in either landscape or portrait mode.
When sweeping the camera a green outline will appear in the area of the next shot to help you properly align the photo. When the outlined area is centered on the screen then the phone automatically captures the next image...wash, rinse, repeat.
I have been using this feature a lot lately since the pictures are gorgeous and it is awesome for group photos. A fun thing I like to do is have someone move along to the next shot and pose so you get a strange clone effect of one person throughout the scene.
Shovelhead84 said:
The phone does this with the built in app. You can move the phone in a sweeping motion and it will take 8 sequential shots. This can be done in either landscape or portrait mode.
When sweeping the camera a green outline will appear in the area of the next shot to help you properly align the photo. When the outlined area is centered on the screen then the phone automatically captures the next image...wash, rinse, repeat.
I have been using this feature a lot lately since the pictures are gorgeous and it is awesome for group photos. A fun thing I like to do is have someone move along to the next shot and pose so you get a strange clone effect of one person throughout the scene.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Have you tried the action shooting mode? Does a very similar thing.
I too would like to see an app that used higher res images (640x480 really does not cut it)
I would also like to see something that could take 360 degree photos, not just moving the camera left to right but also up and down.
Well that's just the sensor setting, the final resolution will be much greater than that in one direction. Holding the phone vertically will give a nice photo. But I would like a 1080 vertical mode for my dual monitor setup and no black lines.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Yeah, but a panorama that's about 550px tall and has fairly obvious seams makes it less of a big falk that the phone stitched out all by itself. Oh well, if you want it nice you really need a camera with a proper mount, anyway, and preferably raw output, and striving on a computer...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Why is there no burst or time-lapse photo mode?
Time-lapse workaround: The app Intervalometer hijacks the stock camera app and simulates touching the shutter buttons, so you get a programmable time-lapse in all modes, Raw, Night-mode, all the 3 cameras. Probably better than Huawei could ever make it.
As for burst mode: its there if you set the resolution to 10MP or lower, no burst mode for 40MP or with raw files.
Time lapse mode can be found on the last page of the camera options where slow motion , monochrome , moving picture is. To take pictures in burst mode you just press the camera button and it will take pictures in burst mode untill you release it.
giwta said:
Time lapse mode can be found on the last page of the camera options where.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No that's a crappy low-res time-lapse video, I'm talking about photos.
Found the burst mode though it has its limitations, that aren't mentioned (how should the user know). They only work in Photo Mode and only if you set the resolution to 10MP or less.
nurps said:
No that's a crappy low-res time-lapse video, I'm talking about photos.
Found the burst mode though it has its limitations, that aren't mentioned (how should the user know). They only work in Photo Mode and only if you set the resolution to 10MP or less.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Go in play store, ans download Framelaps application. It is very good. You have so much options. It is taking photos and you can make 4K video, not 720p like in original camera application. Too bad for Huawei that's is not so hard to do.
Only bad thing with Framelaps you cant you Suoer Wide Angle.
Probably can't do a lot of things, like the correct colors for the new sensor. And yes, kind of want that for the ultra wide.
nurps said:
Probably can't do a lot of things, like the correct colors for the new sensor. And yes, kind of want that for the ultra wide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes I know but it helps more the p30 pro software camera (stupid 720p).
If you have DJI Osmo 2 you have good application for timelaps. But still no super wide-angle
Timelapse with the original camera app in high quality
Framelapse is not bad, but as mentioned, you can't use wide angle lens nor the quality of the original app. Solution:
Use "intervalometer"! This app is working together with any other camera app. It works as an overlay, means, it's running background and given impulse to the camera button with any desired interval while using the camera settings in the original camera app. You can not only use any interval with any resolution (40mp too) but choose a delay when shooting from day to night. The app costs here in Germany 1,89 €.
Grab a copy of Intervalometer from the Google Play store, then you can shoot your own timelapses with whatever camera application you want. That's what i do and it works great!
/ Magnus
With just one camera and no chance to select the other two, probably wrong colors and no raw files support, useless.
EDIT: Oh wait, this thing is actually useful, its no camera app instead it hijacks what ever is on the screen and simulates a touch in the timed intervall.
So it remote controls the manufactures app with whatever is set there.
Nice. Sorry I dismissed it so fast, I was just expecting another dumb comment but this is really useful.
Exactly, it is one of the best applications i have found on the Google Play store and for this purpose it's fantastic! you can shoot RAW timelapse sequences if you want to, the possibilities are infinite since it's not relying on it's own camera but let's you use any camera application you want. It's worth paying for it since it does such a great job with timelapse photography.
/ Magnus
Ok, the best timelaps is INTERVALOMETAR.
You can use every mode, normal, super wide angle, HDR, Night mode, zoom and etc...
Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough
mtm1401 said:
Has anyone found a solution for the lag/motion blur when taking photos? Stationary shots are fine, but any movement of the subject and it's likely to blur, even in reasonable light. On top of this is the clear delay between pressing the button and the photo taking (motion picture does help with this slightly but still not ideal).
GCAM appears to be able to take quick shots with less blur, so I feel like it's not a hardware limitation? I would stick with gcam but obviously lacks the depth of shooting options of the stock camera
Aware pro mode could be used but I feel like auto should do the job well enough
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Anyone?
it's a samsung thing. i have never had a samsung that did not do this. GCAM is a decent work around though. some people try the live picture setting, others try taking video and screenshotting the frame they want, there is a noticeable loss in quality doing that though.
Hi, I noticed today that when I take photos with 1x, it seems like lack of focus.
With wide camera, 3x, and 10x, the results are fine and sharp. Just the main 1x is the problem.
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Anyone has this issue? Any idea how to fix it?
Things I have done:
- factory reset, clear camera cache.
I am running One UI 4 Beta 1.
Samsung S21 Ultra Snapdragon 5G
Shaky hands?
babyboy3265 said:
Shaky hands?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think so, if it's the case, the pro mode will also produce blurry one. It only happens with indoor photo.
I have turned off scene optimizer & focus enhancer as well.
You may have a too dark room to take photos
tessut said:
You may have a too dark room to take photos
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's 12 PM and the light is everywhere. Not sure why the pro mode and 4:3 did better details tho?
Do you think my unit is faulty? Did factory reset and still the same
Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...
blackhawk said:
Brace the phone to eliminate cam shake.
Make sure it's getting a AF lock.
Where you too close?
Compare the shooting settings from the pro vs photo auto whatever mode in the photos exif data.
Not every shot is a keeper...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com
Sky33 said:
Not sure. I see a similar thread below talking about the same thing.
Short story he got his phone repaired by Samsung.
Issue with focus on camera 1.0x
Hello ! This weekend , i find an issue on my S21 ultra.. With the 1.0x camera , the back of the photo is always blurry... With 3.0x or 0.6x no problem ! I try to touch my screen for the focus but same problem... my mother have the same phone and...
forum.xda-developers.com
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again
Sky33 said:
I think it is okay now. I switched the full resolution and format my phone. I'll let you know if it happens again
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
blackhawk said:
Could be... but a couple blurry shots can happen.
Make sure the lense cover plate is clean as that can skew the AF.
Try clearing the cam data and the system cache.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No. It happens again.
Hmm there are actually people also having this problem.
S21 ultra 5g 1x camera auto focus issue.
So I'm on vacation in Arizona and was trying to take photos at the grand canyon. Normal 1x camera is stuck won't focus, pictures come out blurry. All other camera lenses work great. What is the problem, spent a lot of money on this phone for the camera and when I need it, it doesn't work...
us.community.samsung.com
What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.
daniel_loft said:
What's the resolution of the resulting photos? That doesn't look like blur, but more like low resolution.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Just took the full resolution, they are 1800x4000.
The only difference is the main camera is blurry, while the other cameras work well, sharp fine photos
Even if you put your phone in one spot and you are not holding it in your hands the photos from the main cam still come up blurry?
@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.
daniel_loft said:
@Sky33 what you are sharing there are screenshots which is not ideal. In order to clear the situation up let's do the following:
0. Disable location saving in the camera app.
1. Pick a well lit scene (at least as lit as a cloudy mid day) with a well defined object (the sky or a wall won't do) that is at least 2 m from your phone. Most of the times indoor lighting is not enough, except maybe for a very bright kitchen light.
2. Place your phone on an object (preferably on a tripod) or make you're holding it very still (you have to be in a confortabile position yourself).
3. Frame the photo with the above object close to the middle and force the camera to focus on it by tapping the screen on the object.
4. Take a picture with the auto mode.
5. Switch to pro mode and repeat points 3 and 4. Be careful to have approximately the same framing.
6. Upload the original photos to a file sharing service (Google Drive, One Drive, mega.nz, etc.) and share them here. Do not use a photo sharing service as that might compress the pictures. Do not remove any EXIF data from the pictures.
In case I wasn't clear enough please point it out. I'm not in the best environment to write.
Let's see what comes out.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.
blackhawk said:
Take into account the differences in iso, shutter speed, exposure and AF point between the 2 modes.
On my N10+ I will use manual mode when automated mode fails. Usually because of an AF lockon issues.
These micro lense systems have no adjustable aperture so no aperture priority mode, the most useful mode to have when shooting.
That sucks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/
Sky33 said:
I came from N10+ and didn't have this issue. Usually just open camera, point, and shoot, and will definitely get those fine results.
I guess this is a new normal for me :/
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Return it if not happy.
If anything it should be better than the 10+'s AF.
I got a second new N10+ 2 weeks ago because both Samsung latest and Android 11 didn't thrill me.
Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That is peculiar. Have you a different photo app?
Sky33 said:
Note: I used manual focus with Pro mode
Auto indoor
AutoIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Indoor
ProIndoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Auto Outdoor
AutoOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Pro Outdoor
ProOutdoor.jpg
JPG Image
1drv.ms
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for my late response but I've been rather busy lately.
I kept on looking at the two sets of pictures and I must say there are some interesting things happening there. I assumed that the objects in focus are the boxes of Crunchies and the chair on the grass, respectively. I took a look at the EXIF data and it might explain a lot.
Indoor picture:
Auto: The blur seems to be caused by movement. If the exposure time is correct (1 s) than it is very much explainable. I'm not sure how capable Samsung's OIS is, but from my experience 4 stops is what OIS would compensate for and there are approx 5 stops (1/60, 1/30, 1/15, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2, 1) between pro and auto exposure times.
Pro: The exposure time is just about right for a clear shot (1/50 sec). The exposure seems to be calculated differently, for whatever reason.
Outdoor picture:
Auto: Same as before, there is a 1 sec exposure time.
Pro: The photo seems to be more sharpened in pro mode.
I would recommend you wipe the cache of the camera app and try again. If the results are not improving then try wiping the data of the camera app. If things are still blurry, call Samsung service center. There is a possibility that your camera module is not properly calibrated.