Just playing around with the camera but it sure seems like the front facing camera works way better!
Wipe your finger prints from the rear lens! 3MP autofocus vs 640x480 pinhole? but you never know.
I was referring to video
Oh, sorry, I'm lousy at reading between the lines...
Yeah, I could see that, maybe it uses less overhead to drive it.
If you are in a low-light situation this is easily explained: cameras with similar sensor sizes and lower pixels counts are more sensitive and produce images with less noise in low light. This is because the larger area of each pixel provides for more photons falling into the each one of them.
This is my first post here, so first of all, hello everyone and greetings from Finland!
I bought the IS about two weeks ago. Today I took my first outdoor pics and noticed a strange phenomenon. If I focus on a distant object (typical for outdoor shots), the extreme right-hand side of the photo is quite mushy and blurred. The affected area is only about 200 pixels wide (starting from the edge) and goes all the way from top to bottom. Everything else, including the left side, is tack sharp (well, as sharp as it can be with this camera anyway). This happens with every photo, if the focusing distance is relatively long. Close-range shots (indoor pics, for example) are just fine, also the right-hand sides of the photos turn out sharp. This is very strange.
I'm a very experienced photographer, so it's not my technique. Something is wrong with the optics alignment, sensor or it could be a software issue. With optical problems the close-range shots are usually more problematic because of short depth-of-field, which makes the alignment errors much more visible.
Anyone else having similar experiences? Take an outdoor shot using a focusing distance of, let's say, 20-50 meters (or yards) and see if the right side of the image is as sharp as the left side. Make sure there's something with lots of detail near the edges of the image. I would be much less worried, if both sides of the photos were softish. After all, that would be quite typical for less-than-stellar optics found in camera phones. It's the asymmetry that bothers me.
This is actually my only gripe with this phone. Apart from this unpleasant surprise I really like the IS.
Pete
P.S. No fingerprints on the lens, it's clean!
There's an ongoing thread about the camera quality issue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1021940
chobie said:
There's an ongoing thread about the camera quality issue.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1021940
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Thanks for the tip!
I did a bit more controlled experimenting and sadly it seems that also close-distance shots suffer from the same right-hand side blurriness. If I take a photo of a completely flat surface, focusing on the center part of the viewing area, the extreme right-hand side of the photo is soft. There's nothing wrong with the left-hand side. Also, the affected area is almost 400 pixels wide (wide angle setting, no zooming). I also rotated the phone 180 degrees and took comparison shots. And...the left-hand side was blurry.
Maybe I have a bad sample. I can't exchange it for a new one, so I guess I have to live with it or have the local HTC service take a look at it. I'm not too keen on doing that.
Pete
Nothing like this in mine. Photos are good. No blur at the right.
cooljais said:
Nothing like this in mine. Photos are good. No blur at the right.
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Thanks for your comment, good to know your camera is working fine!
I'm suspecting there's dirt inside the lens assembly or on the sensor. My IS is now being serviced at the local HTC service center. I'll let you know how this turns out.
Guess caused by auto focusing
Well I decided to make a post explaining how blessed you are to have this phone's camera. Since I'm a professional photographer, this stuff is important to me
Camera Specs:
Megapixels: 8
Sensor: CMOS (pretty small i don't know the sizes exactly)
ISO range: 100-800 (naturally, software can increase to at least 1200)
Aperture: 2.2
Explanation of these specs:
CMOS Sensor, common in almost all cameras today, rarely you'll find a CCD, they do produce better image quality but use much more power.
8 Megapixels, this isn't really important unless you are blowing your picture up. the human eye actually cannot tell a difference past 4
ISO range, this is actually important, the lower your ISO is the less sensitive the sensor will be to light, making a need for more light for a properly exposed picture, but giving a better image with less noise and sharper details. the higher the iso the more sensitive the sensor is to light making it easier to take pictures indoors or in darker situations, with the trade off of noise.
Aperture, this is the opening of the lens that lets in light. the bigger this is the smaller the number (i don't get it either, deals with some math) but the bigger, the less light is needed for a properly exposed picture meaning less ISO needed. also it adds that blurred background
If something doesn't make sense and needs further explaining don't hesitate to ask!
Also check out the amazing Bananacake's HQ Camera mod giving uncompressed images and video!
Is had a 4s dude compare to me . Apparently his photos were a lol better. I also had a dusty screen protecter and maybe also the lenses
His orange was more orange lol
Sent from my HTC PH39100 using XDA
his phone has a 2.4 aperture, but better glass in his lens though, the manufacturer Carl Zeis is one that makes 10,000 dollar lenses lol. we can also focus ALOT closer for awesome closeups
but our pictures come out better they have comparisons online to.
Let me say it right now...as a photographer myself. It's more the photographer than it is the camera.
Sort of like I've always believed its the violinist, not the violin
Sent from my HTC-X710a using XDA
I believe in that as well except I'm like super nerdy with camera specs.
My thing is, it doesn't hurt to have it
Anyone notice that optical image stabilization is missing in the specifications? I just did a quick search and found several sources saying its digital stabilization. A little bummed about that. Thoughts anyone? :crying:
From the videos, its pretty stable with digital stabilization compared to other smartphones no?
Sent from my One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
expertzero1 said:
From the videos, its pretty stable with digital stabilization compared to other smartphones no?
Sent from my One using XDA Premium 4 mobile app
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Yeah, can't wait for a couple full blown reviews. If anything, hopefully they will bundle the qx10 for preorders in the US too. I hear the qx10 has the optical stabilization. I'm just worried about the low light blurriness. I had the 1020 and it was fantastic.
Smartphone makers try to close the image quality gap between their phones and actual camera.
However, to be honest, I do not rely to much to phone camera.
Their lens can't and sensors can't compare to actual camera even point and shot one, not saying SLR cameras.
Anyway, a phone without a camera is also something should be in history.
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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Dude, what is your problem? It's only a phone with camera that can rival with the best currently available when it comes to pure picture quality. It bests S4 in low light shots and rivals 1020, in daylight photos you can clearly see more details compared to S4 (which by many is considered to have the best camera on android). What is true is that Sony still needs to improve their algorithm but even as it is now it can produce exceptional photos even in full 20mpix resolution.
Stop acting like a baby!!
Wishmaster89 said:
Dude, what is your problem? It's only a phone with camera that can rival with the best currently available when it comes to pure picture quality. It bests S4 in low light shots and rivals 1020, in daylight photos you can clearly see more details compared to S4 (which by many is considered to have the best camera on android). What is true is that Sony still needs to improve their algorithm but even as it is now it can produce exceptional photos even in full 20mpix resolution.
Stop acting like a baby!!
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I think that we all just wanted them to do it right you know? They went out to make a great camera phone and it feels like they stopped 5% away from the finish line. Still, will probably be a great phone and a great camera.
systoxity said:
I think that we all just wanted them to do it right you know? They went out to make a great camera phone and it feels like they stopped 5% away from the finish line. Still, will probably be a great phone and a great camera.
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There'a a difference between disappointment and senseless bashing and that is what I was criticizing.
I agree that it is a shame that they weren't able to include OIS or sensor shift but I think that it could have been currently impossible with such a big sensor and bigger lens than other manufacturers. It is a shame but it's not something that automatically makes it worse than G2 or note 3/S4, on the contrary I still think that it'll end up doing better pictures than both of them.
Sony SteadyShot
It's not all down hill guys, the Z1 has Sony's SteadyShot technology in it, it just appears to only work in video mode which imo is best place, I suppose there will be more clarification once it's out......http://www.sonymobile.com/global-en/products/phones/xperia-z1/features/#camera
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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You sound completely mental.
OIS.. will increase quality for low light shot without question...because of ISO..dont know the ISO range.. any one knows?
jos_031 said:
OIS.. will increase quality for low light shot without question...because of ISO..dont know the ISO range.. any one knows?
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6400 it says on the Sony site I linked it 2 posts back.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk 2
katamari201 said:
It doesn't have optical image stabilization. That's why the night shots aren't so good. OIS allows for slower shutter speed and more exposure. The digital image stabilization is only used for video. All phones have this already. The Lumia 920/925, Lumia 1020, Note 3, HTC One, and LG G2 have OIS, but Sony chickened out and wanted a FLAT camera with no bump because it ruins their sense of aesthetic. They could probably make it even thinner and flatter if they removed the camera and battery completely. How about removing all the internals? A beautiful sliver thin paperweight that looks nice as long as you don't touch it and smudge it up with your filthy plebeian fingers. I'm sure there are many buyers among the Sony loyalists for this sort of product.
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You're just trolling. I've been checking on the photo samples from the Z1 for the past couple days cause I'm considering getting one. I've been waiting for HTC to announce the One Max, but the lack of doing so at the IFA completely made me give up on them and push me toward getting a Z1 instead. At first I noticed the photos had a lot of noise from the Z1 photo samples, but it seems like the noise was taken cared of via software update. The lack of OIS doesn't exactly affect the quality of the photos so far from what I see. The photo samples from the Z1 look more natural than 1020's which had a yellow tint to it. The photos were so defined when comparing the HTC One under low light condition and HTC One is only a bit behind on 1020 under low light condition.
Really, i think at this point we all just need to get our hands on one and give it a shot. The sample photos floating around on the internet certainly haven't been flattering but that could be due to any number of variables. Any word on US release yet?
Exposure is basically the AMOUNT OF LIGHT (controlled by the aperture) that is captured over a SPECIFIC AMOUNT OF TIME (controlled by the shutter speed).
A HIGH aperture number (fstop) = LESS light being recorded on your digital sensor while a LOW aperture number = MORE light being recorded on your digital sensor. apertures are called fstops
Shutter speed: it is the amount of time your shutter stays open when you click the button
The longer your shutter stays open the more motion it will have time to record. The shorter the time your shutter remains open, the more motion it will freeze. But at low light you need more exposure
ISO rating along with the shutter speed and aperture setting are the three elements that determine the final exposure of the photographic image.
The ISO rating, which ranges in value from 25 to 6400 (or beyond), indicates the specific light sensitivity. The lower the number, the less sensitive to light the film stock or image sensor is. Conversely, a higher number indicates a higher sensitivity to light, thereby allowing that film or image sensor to work better in low light conditions.
the lower ISO rating also meant that the photosensitive grains of salt on the film acetate were very fine, thus producing a smoother, cleaner image. A higher ISO had larger, jagged grains of salt, thus producing “rougher” or grainier images.
Lower ISO ratings produce color-accurate, smooth and aesthetically appealing images… and this requires ideal lighting conditions. However, there are some subjects that you want to photograph in low light conditions. Or, you may want to stop fast-moving objects. In both situations, you need higher ISOs to capture those images with an acceptable exposure.with the higher ISOs, you can use faster shutter speeds to eliminate motion blur and/or camera shake. In the event that you want to use motion blur creatively, then decreasing the ISO is simple, and you can then decrease the shutter speed to achieve the desired motion blur and still have smooth, noise-less images.
The size of the digital camera’s image sensor dictates what ISO setting provides the least amount of digital noise. One must understand that image sensor size is not the same thing as pixel count. Image sensor size is the actual physical dimensions of the sensor, for most of the history of digital photography the image sensor has been smaller than a 35mm film frame. On point and shoot cameras, the sensor was quite small, and on most DSLR cameras, the image sensor has been the size of APC film (23x15mm). Smaller image sensors produce much more digital noise at higher ISOs (like 800) mainly because the high pixel count means that more pixels are being packed into a smaller area, thus producing more grain at all but the lowest ISO.
Whenever you shoot in low light or use a long lens, or if you simply aren't holding a camera steady, you risk introducing camera shake into your images. This manifests itself as a blurring of details, and unlike other image quality issues it's not something that can be fixed in post-processing.
The three main image stabilisation systems on offer:
Manufacturers have different names for lens-based stabilisation, but they all largely work in the same way.
ISO based
All but the cheapest compacts offer image stabilisation, and the easiest solution from the manufacturer's point of view is one based on sensitivity. This adds nothing to the manufacturing of a camera as it's simply the ISO which needs to be adjusted, easily handled by the camera's firmware.
As this is the most basic form of image stabilisation, and as other types are preferable, manufacturers often call it 'digital' image stabilisation in press releases and throughout specification lists.
With this type of image stabilisation, the camera looks at the focal length and shutter speed being used, and decides whether the two will create a sharp enough image. If it deems them to be inadequate the camera's sensitivity will be raised, which in turn increases the shutter speed, but the resulting signal will need to be amplified to a greater extent.
So, a camera could choose to raise an image that would be otherwise captured at 1/20sec to 1/80sec, but it would need to raise the sensitivity twofold. So, from ISO 100 this would rise to ISO 400, from ISO 200 to ISO 800 and so on.
The image is still captured sharply as a more appropriate shutter speed has been used, but this process gives rise to noise which is typical with images captured at higher sensitivities. For this reason other systems are preferable in more expensive cameras and lenses. In many compacts, this method is often complemented by sensor-based stabilisation.
Sensor based
Sensor-based stabilisation also uses information such as focal length and shutter speed on which to base its calculations, but instead of adjusting the sensitivity the camera physically moves the sensor.
The sensor will typically be mounted on a platform, which will move to compensate for any movement when the camera senses it is necessary.
Minolta first introduced the feature in its DiMAGE A1 camera back in 2003, and, after merging with Konica, incorporated it into the 7D DSLR.
Sony continued the feature when it took over Konica Minolta's imaging business, and was soon joined by Pentax, Olympus and others. All three companies continue to use the system today, and it has since been adopted by other manufacturers for their own hybrid systems and compacts.
In the case of DSLRs and hybrids, this type of image stabilisation brings the significant advantage of allowing lenses to be made smaller, lighter and cheaper (as they do not need to incorporate any form of image stabilisation themselves), and is effective with virtually any mounted lens. This is particularly handy in the case of older lenses which predate image stabilisation technology, although it may be necessary to first input the focal length of the lens into the camera, depending on the lens, camera and the nature of communication between the two.
Lens based
Lens-based image stabilisation came just before digital cameras were made accessible, but the two have more or less evolved over a similar space of time.
Today, the technology is found in a range of optics manufactured by Canon and Nikon (particularly those targeted towards the professional), as well throughout the ranges from independent lens manufacturers Sigma and Tamron. Panasonic also uses the system in its lenses designed for the Micro Four Thirds system, as well as those found in its Lumix range of compacts.
Lens-based stabilisation systems typically work by shifting a lens group towards the rear of the lens on a plane perpendicular to the optical axis.
This is done with the help of two gyro sensors inside the lens, one for yaw and one for pitch. These notice the angle and speed of any movement, and this information is fed to a microprocessor which computes the necessary adjustments needed to be made by the lens group. By doing so, the light's angle of refraction is changed so that it hits the sensor in the right place.
Manufacturers of these systems claim that this type of stabilisation is the most effective as it can be tailored specifically to the objective in which it us used. And, as stabilisation takes place in the lens, the photographer is able to view the effect through the viewfinder.
Typically this activates once the shutter release has been half-depressed, although it is possible on different camera/lens combinations to set when the stabilisation begins, such as only at the moment of capture, for example. This has the additional benefit of conserving power, as, left on all the time, lens-based image stabilisation systems can eat up battery power fairly quickly.
One recent development in this area is Canon's Hybrid IS system, which offers two types of correction.
The first is via an angular velocity sensor which notices rotational shake, which is found in existing image-stabilised lenses.
Canon 100mmThe second - and what makes the Hybrid IS system different - is a separate sensor for noticing camera shift (linear) movements, such as when a camera moves up, down, left or right while remaining parallel to the subject. Canon claims that by incorporating both sensors camera shake is better corrected.
Now i guess everyone got importance of OIS feature..
And i tried the camera of xperia Z1.. the picture was blurry at full zoom. but noise was absent..I feel low noise is more important than full zoom blur...because the photo is excellent for normal usage
wow, thank you that was a great read.
As much as I love my phone, I have spotted a few things that made me question the phone or Huawei.
First of all, I was playing with the three rear cameras and noticed that when I hovered my finger above the topmost camera (I think it's the 40mp one) or covered it, my finger didn't show up. Is that supposed to happen?
Secondly, when I take a picture in complete dark, there is always some noise present.
Thirdly, the screen has a gradient hue, darker on the left side as compared to the right. I have attached an image in this post. Please check for the gradient as I seem to see it on my screen. This is clearly obvious in a complete dark room.
Please check your phone and let me know if you're facing the same thing. Thank you.
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
For your noisy dark pictures. If you take a picture in a completely dark room (covered your screen ?) then the ISO is probably cranked up to the moon. So your going to see noise.
Maybe try in pro mode with a sane iso and exposure time (to avoid noise and hot pixels) and see how much noise you get then.
Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
bk227865 said:
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
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Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
Others have answered your finger question. Not really sure what that point was about anyway?
Re: noise. What were you expecting? This isn't a full frame DSLR shooting raw. This is still a tiny sensor (just less tiny) with a highly compromised lens (miniaturisation comes at a cost). However, it is in my view head and shoulders above any other smartphone for delivering photos in poor / mixed light and at night when hand held - CM1 & 808 still beat it easily when on a tripod or similar.
Re: the screen. There will always be some gradient. If it's bad, I suggest you talk to Huawei or your provider / retailer's support and get a replacement. But since you say you only see it in a completely dark room, I can't imagine this is worthy of replacement.
birajrai said:
Yes, it seems so that when I zoom while covering the lens, the picture comes as the lens is covered. Thank you for clarifying that to me.
Can you please, if you don't mind, clarify the gradient hue of the screen? Or is it just mine? Thank you.
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It's my first oled phone so i don't have any reference on how good oled is supposed to look in very dark rooms.
If you can only see it on dim images in a dark room then your probaly noticing the "mura effect".
I cannot tell if your display is particulary bad or not. But i to can detect it looking at a uniform very dark gray backround in a very dark room. Under minimal light conditions i see no problems.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2107228
Edit : i checked your blue image , but my eyes cannot really spot any meaningfull hue differences even in a darkened room.
bk227865 said:
The top one is used when zooming (5x) i think.
But funny enough the live view seems to not always use the same lens as the lens the photo is taken with.
If you zoom 5x and cover the top lens (or even when its dark ?) the live view switches to the main lens.
Sometime you can catch a glimp of your finger just before the switch happens.
And then when you take the zoomed in shot with the top lens covered you get a black picture, although the liveview shows an image.
I tested this in a fairly dim living room, so your mileage may vary if you test this in a bright office or outside in the sun.
For your noisy dark pictures. If you take a picture in a completely dark room (covered your screen ?) then the ISO is probably cranked up to the moon. So your going to see noise.
Maybe try in pro mode with a sane iso and exposure time (to avoid noise and hot pixels) and see how much noise you get then.
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The top lens is the tele lens. It only has 3x zoom. The 5x zoom is a hybrid zoom where it uses both lenses.