Hello all, I just replaced a broken LCD and digitizer on my HD7 with a unit bought from eBay. It's from a supplier that I've used very frequently, so I trust the component. When I got the phone back together, it will sometimes boot, sometimes not. It will also sometimes display just fine, and other times it looks like it's garbled, or just not display at all. The screen will be blank and not react. I'm pretty versed at repairing phones, I've probably done 30 for myself and friends, so I'm pretty good at reassembly. Is anyone familiar with this issue and can maybe give me some ideas? Cause I'm flat out of them.
The other thing is that when I start moving the phone around after reassembly, this is when I start experiencing troubles. I tried putting electrical tape in places under the mobo to keep from grounding something out, but it doesn't seem to help. Any ideas would be great.
Did you put on gloves when you were doing the replacement. Cause like you I have done alot of screen replacements on a wide range of phones and I would have to say that there are devices out there were if something got grounded out while you are doing the replacement it tends to start doing all kinds of goofy things once the phone is back together. I have found that by wearing "gloves that do not conduct electricity" the chances of something like that happening is gone. Ive only had two devices do weird and strange things like some of what you have said. These were some of my first repairs and after changing to putting gloves on I haven't had a problem since.
Hope that helps and also I am about to replace the screen on a HD7 that I just bought just wanting for the screen so, I will let you know what happens.
Thanks, probably good advice. I've been very lax about using grounding protection of any kind. I've seen those guys who use the "finger condoms" where the rest of their hand is open. Couldn't hurt to use a grounding strap too, pretty cheap and easy precaution. The other thing I noticed about the phone was the SD that came with it isn't recognized by any OS, so wondering if there wasn't something else wrong with the phone.
Hi guys. I took the Toshiba Keyboard out of my Toshiba A505 laptop so I could clean out the fan and glue some usb drives back in place. I was successful at doing that. But after putting things back together, the keyboard doesn't work right.
Looking around it seems I damaged either the ribbon that connects the keyboard, or the (gulp) connector permanently attached to the motherboard. I ordered a new Toshiba Keyboard and am waiting with fingers crossed. Was wondering if you guys could help me determine which it is to help me sleep better. Here's the facts as well as I can tell...
1) Initially taking out the ribbon I didn't realize it had the little lock feet. I just pulled carefully until it came out.
2) Putting it back in the same way, all letters worked except QAZ.
3) Took it out and put it back in the same way again. All letters worked. But then I realized I forgot to reconnect the touchpad, so I undid and redid it one more time while I took care of that. In doing this I shorted the computer and had to restart (probably shouldn't have done this with the computer on... oh well).
4) Once again all letters work but QAZ.
5) Took it out and put it in a few more times. At some point noticed the lock feet and started using them properly. Fewer letters are working. Only a handful work now. If I push on the ribbon while I play around, I can get more letters to come up, but not usually all of them. Attempts to use tape to achieve a similar effect were not successful.
6) Feeling a bit desperate, tried putting some tin Compatible Parts around the ribbon to help the connection. That didn't help. It shorted it like before. Put it in place with computer off. No short this time but didn't work.
7) As for the condition of the ribbon, it looks ok as far as I can tell. There was a crease in the middle of it initially but that was always there. It is a bit creased towards the end where I was pushing it in. Doesn't look like any of the lines in the ribbon are interrupted. The ends might be a bit scratched... reminds me of the little teeth in a Nintendo cartridge.
So anyway. Wondering which you guys think it is.
Feeling really stupid right about now. Hopefully I'm just $20 keyboard stupid and not motherboard stupid. I don't have any money.
Hello, any help yet?
fanqiexiaoai said:
Hi guys. I took the Toshiba Keyboard out of my Toshiba A505 laptop so I could clean out the fan and glue some usb drives back in place. I was successful at doing that. But after putting things back together, the keyboard doesn't work right.
Looking around it seems I damaged either the ribbon that connects the keyboard, or the (gulp) connector permanently attached to the motherboard. I ordered a new Toshiba Keyboard and am waiting with fingers crossed...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hello,
I'm having the same problem and made a thread about it. I'm wondering, have you gotten help for this problem? Was it ever solved?
Thanks
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Follow up.
davenz said:
Hi team. I've searched the forums for answers and even though I've read a thousand excellent posts, none (of course) fit my situation specifically. I'll try to be as brief as I can.
My AT&T-branded, Chinese imported Captivate was only three weeks old when I first soft-bricked it trying to do an update using Kies (thanks Samsung!) and then because it would only go into download mode, I tried using Odin to reflash back to where I was. The flash didn't take and I was left with nothing; no charging icon, no computer recognition (Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit using the generic Samsung Android phone drivers downloaded from somewhere on XDA) and no boot/download mode; in other words, hard-bricked and nothing working.
I bought myself a riffbox and spent a long time reading various forum posts about using it; I own a computer repair company and have flashed a million motherboard, modem, router and other firmwares over the past 15 years and have even done a Samsung S2 and a Galaxy Pad in the last week so am reasonably comfortable with the process, even though I'm not hugely experiences yet with the riffbox.
Anyway, I imported and soldered the recommended panasonic socket to the JTAG point and made myself some PCB adapters to fit and break out the Riffbox cables. That's all done and dusted and today I used the Riffbox on my Captivate for the first time, apparently detecting the 'dead body' and flashing the ROM successfully (the box and software would soon tell me if something wasn't right). While I hoped it would, I didn't expect my phone to boot straight away, but did expect it to go into download mode, as suggested in the JTAG literature with the Riffbox. This is where it all gets bent out of shape.
I always get into download mode with my Captivate by dropping the battery and then replugging with the Vol + and - buttons held. I have tried all methodfs I can find on XDA but all either don't work or do the same thing, that is, my phone enters download mode for about ten seconds, then drops out again. During that time, all USB devices 'hang' while the computer tries to fathom what the hell is connected there and Andy just holds his shovel and laughs at me before disappearing once again into the inky blackness of a dead screen. The device manager shows an unknown device detected before letting it go again and mouse and keyboard control resumes. Weird. I thought it might be a flat battery but I've charged that so it has plenty of juice. When plugged via USB, there is 4 volts at the battery terminals (measured with the battery out) so it would charge when plugged in (wall wart or USB cable) even though no icon shows.
Like any good tech I went back and reflashed using both the recommended ROM and 'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash) and the phone still does the same thing; enters download mode then off. I made up a USB dongle/jig using exactly 301 kilohms of resistance (measured digitally) across pins 4 and 5 and followed the various videos/explanations to get into download mode that way but this does not work on my phone, leading me to think something else is broken.
Bottom line is that it seems the phone doesn't have to be connected via USB to enter download mode but if Windows cannot load the phone, then I cannot use Odin or Heimdall to reflash it. I don't think it is drivers because it worked OK before the brick (well, not perfectly but it did connect and I had USB drive support etc.) and besides, I have tried reinstalling drivers to no avail. Can anyone suggest anything I can try (shipping it to some guy in the USA is not the answer I'm going for here so please don't waste your time or mine). As far as I can see, I have done everything the people here suggest and the JTAG/Riffbox instructions to the letter but it just does not want to happen. I'd rather not lose the phone and since I eventually want to offer this sort of service in my business, I want to get it to work on my own phone for my own pride and knowledge.
Cheers from Christchurch New Zealand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Since none of the gurus here bothered to respond I'll do it myself in case someone else finds the same issue.
Turns out the battery was faulty; I replaced it and succeeded in getting the phone into download mode with both the jig and the usual methods. Then the computer would not recognize the phone, the dreaded 'unknown device' in the device manager. I was using the factory cable that came with the phone but tried a third-party one I had for a Chicom HTC copy I had lying around and this allowed the phone to be recognized by Windows (go figure). I used Odin to unbrick/reflash and it is all go now, interestingly both cables now work for the phone within Windows so it is always worth trying something even though it makes no real sense to do so.
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
^
ROFLMAO !!!!
Sent from my SGH-I897 using xda premium
Rotating Disc Nebulizer
-SGA- said:
Darn, that is exactly what I was going to say to do!
Next time, try a rotating disc nebulizer, which you can redesign with respect to the principle parameters that determine its analytical performance. The flow pattern of the aerosols you will attain can be optimized by altering the shape of the inner chamber for optimum aerodynamic characteristics. Furthermore, the optimum angle of impact needs to be established using particle size distribution and mass transport efficiency as criteria. Any analytical characteristics you determine will be through monitoring the emission signal from an aqueous standard. The accuracy has to be assessed by using reference steel and iridium samples.
It is easy to construct, and the fundamental component is a rotating disc onto which a liquid sample is introduced. It should require no additional spray chamber and be easy to operate effectively. Once in operation it should produce aerosols with mean droplet diameters of approximately 0.50 µm.
You may then utilize inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry to determine the defect.:good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
davenz said:
This is excellent advice and ordinarily I would agree 110%, however I have found that the later model Rotating Disc Nebulisers have an inherent fault in the flange valve regulator, which in turn affects the lead mercury ratio and results in even harder bricking of susceptible devices. If, however, you feather an older nebulizer with the updated underhead/overhang mod then even the nastiest conflibulator inversion is easily bypassed. Just for information's sake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
-SGA- said:
OMG, that was some seriously original stuff! Anyone try Googling "conflibulator inversion"? This is the only result, lol!
Glad to hear your flashing worked out, I think the process you followed is a lot more in depth than many of us would ever undertake...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, I wasn't about to throw away 350 bucks (our money, which is worth about three chickens and a bag of salt in anyone else's currency) and since I pride myself in being able to fix anything, the challenge was set in motion when I discovered (via this excellent resource) that the Captivate was a) hard to brick (I found it pretty easy to be honest) and b) the hardest to unbrick.One poster claimed that if you can unbrick a Captivate you can unbrick anything, so I had to give it a go. After all, what did I have to lose?
As I mentioned, I intend to diversify my computer repair business into mobile gadget repairs anyway and I can think of nothing more noble than unbricking phones. I learned an incredible amount on the way through the whole process and while just having the tools doesn't make me an expert, I'm happy to work my way toward that goal and if I help others on the way, well, it's a win/win.
Thanks for the entertaining posts and cheers from Christchurch, New Zealand.
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Glad to hear you are de-worse-ifying your biz.
You should add the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe to your tools. I am told its use dramatically improves GPS performance, and provides immediate position locks to some position, however distant from where you thought you were.
-written whilst sipping high temperature psychoactive botanical filtrate in my ceramic gravitational containment vessel with plalangeal bracket (aka coffee in my mug).
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using xda app-developers app
Thanks
wwcjr91 said:
I sure hope you tried locating the flux capacitor before going through all that work. Could have saved you from having to go through the whole "Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose" process.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now you tell me! The entire Seismic Declan Brown Eyed Goose scenario had me stumped there for a while but after referencing 'Nocturnal Urinary Releases and other Stories', the famous Declan-decoding text by I. P. Nightly, a liberal application of lubricating gel in all the right places had the whole thing well in hand...
And as for the left-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe, that's again where I went wrong with a newbie mistake. Sadly I ordered the right-handed skyhook-bipolar-transmogifier-probe and of course it didn't moglify the selindicular quadronizer at all. In fact, it broke it off at the chalisticator and left me up the paddle without a creek, so to speak. Nevertheless, a little old-fashioned luck and a tap with the old thorificating polookanizer soon had things back on track.
Now all I need is another Speckled Jim for the halitosinifer (do you REALLY want to know?) and all will be well in my world (which is not like other worlds if posts on XDA are anything to go by...)
Thanks all for your excellent input, it has been a journey through the looking glass!
well i really liked the "brilliantly" thought of posts about the legendary tools mentioned... hehe
i was really looking forward to more comments to lighten up the mood
pls keep posting
3 cheers
btw i am also stuck at dead hard brick on my cappy
regards
alot of youtube videos provide help on unbricking
...'last resort' option in the Riffbox (Clone Gremlin Zone flash)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
adfree said:
Please.
Someone know what Gremlin Zone exactly is?
Location in OneNAND ? Or somewhere else?
Maybe adresses or dump of Gremlin Zone would be nice.
Thanx in advance.
Best Regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think the person to ask would be AdamOutler. You're asking for some deep knowledge in general
I couldn't find anything close to what I was looking for though I could be using the wrong terms. I was repairing two Droid 4's to use, I had them both working but realized that when they would get bumped (even lightly) it would cause them to shut off. I removed the battery and realized that one of the contacts where the flex cable gets screwed into the phone is not attached to the phone anymore. I'm including pictures to make sure everyone knows what I'm talking about. I'm hoping that this is definitely the issue and not in addition to something else but until I fix this part I won't know.
I want to reattached the part but soldering is not an option. I was thinking conductive glue but I wanted to make sure that it would be appropriate to use for this purpose. Thoughts? Thank you in advance!
Probably too late, but...
Just using straight superglue might work.
I'm 90% sure the posts are grounds and therefore needed, but you should only need one. Easiest way to check would be to screw the battery ribbon to the still-attached post, then apply pressure to the missing post side so the +/- pins make contact. If you get power and the battery reads fine, you can probably get away with just one side conductivity attached (as they're probably a common ground anyway). Slap some superglue on, reattach the post, done.
If not...well, then it'd be solder or as you say, some kind of conductive glue.
Hello,
Some time ago I managed to buy a working second-hand "Pebble Time Steel"... well, almost working. The watch succeeded to connect via bluetooth, showed information on screen properly, was responsive. The only things that worked wrong was the almost worn battery and non-working "back" button.
I like PTS, it has some unique functions that modern smartwatches miss... so I decided to repair it and use as my primary watch.
Never mind the battery, the new one is on its way from Aliexpress. The "back" button however is a big challenge. The previous owner tried to repair it, but he didn't succeed. The only goal he managed was to solder out the microswitch and... leave an empty space. So right now I have PTS with a working motherboard and empty space where the microswitch was.
I tried to find out what type of microswitch it is. Hours of searching internet and online catalogues returned poor results. The only switch that is close to the size of the original was Omron B3U-3000P-B, but it is still a bit too big. A bit risky to use it due to the SMD resistor placed close to the switch. The original switch is 3mm in width, 2mm deep and 2mm high.
Can you please help me to find the appropriate model of the switch?
There is also another way... does somebody have a broken "Pebble Time" or "Pebble Time Steel" motherboard to sell? I could use switch to replace it to my PTS board.
Here are some photos:
- The first photo shows the motherboard, the arrow points the empty space
- The second photo shows one of the other switches
- The third photo shows the front of the switch - there is a black micro knob mounted to the golden spring circle
Sorry for the poor sharpness, my phone doesn't have "macro" mode.
Welcome to XDA.
This device dates back to when?
This site may have a plan if you contact them if the watch dates back 6+ years.
Conversely buying a parts queen cheap might work but you better have excellent desoldering/ soldering skills. These pcbs are easily damaged.
Digikey or Mouser Electronics may have something that small. You need to know what type of switch it is ie NC or NO, single pole etc.
No easy task...
OK, I contacted Rebble Discord and they really helped. Just for your information if someone needs it: this is the Panasonic TACT switch of "EVPAV" series. Right now there is only one model available (EVPAVAA1A) that is a bit thinner than the original Pebble one, but I will find a way to solder it properly.
You can close this thread.
ravan70 said:
You can close this thread.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thread closed at the OP's request.