Related
any ideas on solar chargers?
i have already emailed solio about a solio classic charger and they say its working (with htc magic) if used with an htc special adapter.
others?
http://www.earthtechproducts.com/p2588.html
http://www.engadget.com/2007/06/23/brandos-versatile-universal-solar-charger/
http://www.engadget.com/2005/06/15/soldius1-solar-cellphone-charger-works-fast-yo/
http://www.ecogeekliving.com/universalsolarcharger.html
http://www.buydig.com/shop/product.aspx?sku=iti101
As long as there a mini-usb out or a usb in your in business.
add these to your list.
http://www.amazon.com/Accessory-Power-Battery-Charger-Smartphones/dp/B002OTQHBG
http://www.fommy.com/view-full-page.asp?divid=HTC&model=HTC+myTouch+3G+Slide&skuno=83981
http://www.thepocketsolution.com/PSI-62166.html
http://www.amazon.com/Dermis-univerSol-Solar-USB-Charger/dp/B00362DY0W
Hey which ever one you get/got could you tell us how it works?
Hi,
Has anybody had any luck with this charger?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270612086257&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Thank you in advance for any useful information.
Giovanni
Hi.
I've got solar charger at work (I'm selling it, not using ) and I've tried it with my Magic (there's a lot of plugs to suit all mobiles ever created and mini USB too). Works fine even with artificial lighting (i don't know what UV rays it catches without any sun...). On the first sight I think it's so practical that i would throw away my regular charger just to use solar one. There wasn't second or any more sights... I'll check it out in near future.
I would like to apologize for my poor english (in fact i don't really know how much mistakes i've made)...
Thinking about getting an A7 with the XDA rom.
What's up with the Docking Port?
Are there any actual Docking stations?
If there are, what are the specs and what services pass through the docking station?
I would love to be able to just dock it when at home and let it charge and ideally access other resources (USB, HMDI, etc).
No dock yet.
Is this it?
It seems like Compal is also developing or involved with an upcoming Android tablet for Toshiba. Taking a quick glance at the pic in the article, that docking station looks like it may fit the A7http://www.electronista.com/articles/10/08/28/toshiba.folio.100.android.tablet.detailed.early/
I plan to hunt around for information to confirm or dispel my suspicions and welcome any help. Please post any significant findings here on the forum, I'm sure many folks what to know if we can accessorize this powerful step-child device we have.
i got that one
and dock is NOT compatible, the plug is much bigger in the dock..
We want a dock !
Lapdock+Wii == Gametrix
So I have a spare Nintendo Wii and a lapdock (hopefully pick some more up if there are still any at Radioshack) and I am going to disassemble the Wii, reconfigure it to fit on the back "panel" of the Lapdock, and get the needed cords to create a Gametrix[/]
My initial goal is to connect a Nintendo Wii to my Atrix Lapdock by... (with modifications)
1) a. Having the Lapdock’s Male Mini-HDMI plugged into a Female Mini-HDMI TO M / F Fullsized-HDMI converter. Thus allowing a direct HDMI connection from there.
This takes care of ½ of connections for both the Lapdock and the Wii.
2) a. Ideally I am looking to hook the Wii’s power supply directly to the Lapdock’s Male Micro-USB port, via a Female Micro-USB TO M / F Fullsized-USB. From there I’d need a USB to Female Wall Outlet (3 prong?) this would entail finding(unlikely...) / building one.
This takes care of power needs, (if it works) leaving only the unlikely usability of the Lapdocks built in keyboard and mouse / USB ports.
2) b. if number 2 section a (above) doesn’t work because of lack of volts traveling through the USB to the Wii, then I’d be left with connecting an external battery to the Wii and just taking advantage of the screen.
Hopefully if I have to result to section b then I’d at least be able to use the keyboard and mouse?
I will update with a Diagram of my plan “a” and “b” tomorrow after school.
Here are average power draw for the Wii. @17 Watts http://www.blogcdn.com/www.joystiq.com/media/2007/02/next-gen_console_power_lg.jpg
And here for Gamecube. @23 Watts http://www.tpcdb.com/product.php?id=1615
Lapdock voltage output. ??? I think I'd have to replace the battery because it's only supposed to charge a phone/run an OS...
Lapdock insternal battery mAh ???
Please guys I know it's a lot but any input is great input
sounds fun. good luck dude.
Use a wii its better and supports a HDMI converter.
The gamecube already has a battery pack accessory and a screen accessory so its easy been done
Sent from Moto Atrix 4g on Neutrino 2.91
I have decided to go with the Wii, I am trying to find info on how many amps the Wii draws and if the Lapdock is capable of powering it...
I think I would try seeing how they both look on the screen before diving in much further, but it does sound like it could be a fun project.
Other thoughts:
how useful the project will be specifically to you? For many of us, due to the limited availability of the lapdocks, there's a limited number of people that will be able to try this themselves.
do you plan on strictly playing games, or are you going a bit further by using Linux on the device? I imagine there is a way you could use the keyboard as some type of input device, although you may have to create some translator device from a programmable Microcontroller.
is the screen big enough for enjoying using the device or is it more of a challenge than it's worth. The screen may be plenty big enough for a handheld device, but for something like using a Wii controller where you are at a distance from the screen, is it big enough?
Budget This is something we all overlook far to often. Something starts off small and simple, but before you know it, you end up spending way more than you had anticipated.
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
jeffreygtab said:
I have 2 Wii's and a Lapdock, so budget is covered.
I'm not going to use the motion bar, just gamecube games.
My main concern is if the Lapdock can power it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Power will probably be an issue through USB as USB does have a specification for max current of 500–900 mA (general); 5 A (charging devices). After that the port should shutdown to prevent burning out the controller.
Edit: I was looking at your figures above, did some digging, and I think you have a couple hurdles.
To start with, for power consumption, you want to look more at peak then you do at min and give yourself a bit of cushion, mainly because running at max power all the time will tax components. Second, and this is a big one, the Wii power pack apparently is 12V 3.7A (44.4W). USB is only 5 volts, and at 900mA you're peaking at 4.5W. However, if you could somehow manage to trick it into charge mode, you might be able to squeeze 25W. That's if it works like a standard USB port. If you can do that, you can step up the voltage with a charge pump, but I'm not quite sure how close to max that will put you due to efficiency losses. You may be able to go the other way and use the Wii to power the lapdock, or you may have to power them independently.
All that said, I think it's still important to just try to see what it looks like on the screen before digging in too far.
I plan on charging it through the Micro USB which you said supplies up to 23W+ Which is apparently plenty for the Wii. I'm going to order the necessary cords to attempt this, this weekend. So next week I'll know how much, if any, I have to modify to power it.....
I'll continue to research, and thanks for your help!
EDIT: screen size isn't an issue, as I'm have it right in from of me like a laptop, Playing Super Smash Bros Melee and the like.
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
jeffreygtab said:
BIG Message to everyone who's reading this. THIS IS MY FIRST HARDWARE MOD (as if that wasn't obvious?)
Anyways I'm gonna pick up a soldering iron as well, because I'm not finding a way to charge the Wii (assuming the Lapdock is capable...) There are no real ways to convert the micro usb to the 3 prong standard outlet that the Wii uses... So I may need to make my own? Will this work? http://www.sybausa.com/productInfo.php?iid=1274 Although I can't find where to buy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You mean you want to convert 5V DC to 120V AC and then downconvert to 12V? Better to just go from 5V to 12V, but the reality is that it's much easier to go down than up. What does the lapdock itself have for a power supply?
Edit: Looks like the Wii has some type of USB keyboard support. Not sure if you want to try getting that to work, but it might come in handy.
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Check out about halfway down the page on this link if you want to see what the Wii looks like on the lapdock screen:
http://www.robpol86.com/index.php/Atrix_Lapdock_Other_Uses
jeffreygtab said:
I know but isn't the Wii's power cord a standard 120v 3 prong wall charger? I'd have to convert the 3 prong format to a Micro USB.
The lapdocks power supply is the battery if that's what you were asking...
Thanks for helping on my first project btw.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad to share my limited knowledge. Anyway, Really, I'm unsure if you can pull 25W out of the USB or not, but even if you could, you'd lose a good chunk of that in going from 5V to 125V AC, because at this point, a charge pump is no longer an option but instead you would need a power inverter, and since most of the commercially available ones are designed to go from 12V DC to 120V AC, you would likely end up building one yourself. The charge pump (buck–boost converter) is much easier to build, but I'm not sure about how much power you can get out of it.
Here's one I built from modifying a schematic I found online somewhere:
I hate to be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
ravilov said:
I hate yo be the party pooper here, but I think no USB port will ever be able to deliver that much power. We're talking about several ampers here. Neither the USB port nor a great majority of USB cords are built to withstand that. Most USB hardware is designed to carry at most 1A. And then, even if you manage to get sufficient power flowing and power the contraption up, I wouldn't expect too much autonomy out of it since it is after all battery-powered. I would expect a lot of heat from the batteries too.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
But as I said, I don't know if you can get that much power out of this particular device. 20W @12V is 1.6A, but in order to power that from 5V, you would need at least 4 Amps, which puts it close to max, but not over it. The actual port connector is rated much higher than that.
Edit: I do have to agree on one point though, running on battery power will be pretty limiting, especially when you consider what the batteries were intended for in the first place.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
lehjr said:
Battery Charging Specification 1.2:[14] Released in December 2010.
Several changes and increasing limits including allowing 1.5A on charging ports for unconfigured devices, allowing High Speed communication while having a current up to 1.5A and allowing a maximum current of 5A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
ravilov said:
Hm, interesting. I don't know, I'd say even if the USB hardware might be able to withhold such high currents, it's only for a short while, not for continuous use. I'm talking about all the USB hardware now, not just the plugs and cords.
Anyway, while 5A might indeed be the theoretical maximum, I have yet to see an USB device that actually delivers anywhere close to that. Even most commercial "high-speed" chargers deliver only up to about 2A.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Right, running that close to maximum is likely going to be short lived, and that's if it can be coaxed to go there in the first place. I'm not sure what the portability thing is about anyway. The Wii may be small, but it's heavy.
---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------
jeffreygtab said:
So you're saying that there's basically no way to power the Wii with the Lapdock's setup? Ughhh I assumed this would be a major issue but decided I'd leave the verdict to those more knowledgeable than myself... So you're sure there's no way? Well anyways I hope at the very least to connect an external Battery (recommendations?) and hopefully get the Wii to recognize the trackpad and keyboard esp. for linux use... I'll keep researching and keep you guys posted.
edit:
Didn't read your reply Lehjr before posting mine, sorry about that. Anyways I'm still confused about whether or not the Lapdock is capable of powering the Wii? Anyways here is where I'm getting my very limited information on basic electronics. http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/question501.htm I will keep studying though don't worry:laugh:
I'm going to post this on BenHeck Forums too for additional input. Again thank you guys.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Possibly capable, very slim chance, but doing so would be running very close to max the entire time the Wii is powered. You would also have to build a device to convert 5V to 12V, again, not impossible, but you do lose some power do to conversion inefficiencies. Is there any particular reason you want the device to be portable? IMHO, in order to run the Wii for any length of time, you would need a decent set of batteries. A few amps plugged in is one thing, on battery power that's something else. I could easily see you using something like a couple Power Wheels 6V batteries and a 12V charger or some similar setup, maybe some lithium cells if you're a big spender. Anything more than that and you're wheeling this thing around on a cart with a deep cycle marine/RV battery.
Haha a definitive answer would be welcomed as to whether it's theoretically capable or not, but if you can't provide that, I completely understand! Anyways It just needs to be temporarily portable, like 1 hour battery life is plenty. Thanks... Btw I can't actually thank you guys anymore as I'm out of thanks.
Good afternoon, everybody. I can not find the problem, on the Russian Forums Help is not found. (I am from Moscow). such a problem-acquired mhl-hdmi adapter. connecting entirely in accordance with the instructions is nothing happens. no pop-up window on the connected hdmi no display on the screen. the problem is clearly not in the adapter. I believe that I have something extra frozen / deleted. please if someone knows tell me what process / system file is responsible for displaying the image on the hdmi.thank you all in advance. and please do not delete the question if he is in the wrong section. move to the desired section please.
Make sure you are using 11pin (not 5 pin) adapter. Can you check adapter with another Note 2 to make sure that adapter is ok?
Sent from my SGH-T889 using xda app-developers app
you can also test the adapter with a Galaxy S3, and probably S4. I don't believe the S4 changed anything in the HML or USB port, so it's very likely the same as GN2 and S3.
Also, if you are using a HML adapter, make sure it has enough power. Not all adapters pulled enough power from the phone, so you will need an external power source. Most just use the USB cable and charger that come with the phone.
lovekeiiy said:
you can also test the adapter with a Galaxy S3, and probably S4. I don't believe the S4 changed anything in the HML or USB port, so it's very likely the same as GN2 and S3.
Also, if you are using a HML adapter, make sure it has enough power. Not all adapters pulled enough power from the phone, so you will need an external power source. Most just use the USB cable and charger that come with the phone.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
unfortunately I have not the opportunity to try something different to what note2 or s3. if I had the chance I would not have asked for help. I just ask somebody to check on his device and see what process start when adapter connect to the phone and tv. sorry for any mistakes
the idea was to confirm that your GN2 wasn't working correct, and it wasn't the adapter. If the adpater worked, then it's the phone. If not, the it may be the adapter.
Depending on your adapter, it's possible there may not be enough power, thus, it's possible the HML isn't registering. I'm assuming you're not using some one directional HDMI cable.
I use an adapter as well. I needed a 5pin to 11pin adapter. I have to use the phone charger to power the adapter. The above video shows the setup and it working.
Maybe you can let someone at the store where you got the phone to test another phone with the adapter or an adapter with your phone. Hopefully they have TV with HDMI to test with. Maybe try an electronics store.
lovekeiiy said:
the idea was to confirm that your GN2 wasn't working correct, and it wasn't the adapter. If the adpater worked, then it's the phone. If not, the it may be the adapter.
Depending on your adapter, it's possible there may not be enough power, thus, it's possible the HML isn't registering. I'm assuming you're not using some one directional HDMI cable.
I use an adapter as well. I needed a 5pin to 11pin adapter. I have to use the phone charger to power the adapter. The above video shows the setup and it working.
Maybe you can let someone at the store where you got the phone to test another phone with the adapter or an adapter with your phone. Hopefully they have TV with HDMI to test with. Maybe try an electronics store.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much. Today decided to move - to unfreeze all applications and restore all avtostarts. We'll see tomorrow at work. The results unsubscribe. By the way today went to the office store Samsung - I have the original cable. It turns out that the case in my phone. Charging and tried to 1A and 1.5A - no way. I really hope that everything will turn out tomorrow. Thanks for the video
By the way your adapter is not like mine. Apparently, in different regions of different designs.
gguitarist88 said:
Thank you very much. Today decided to move - to unfreeze all applications and restore all avtostarts. We'll see tomorrow at work. The results unsubscribe. By the way today went to the office store Samsung - I have the original cable. It turns out that the case in my phone. Charging and tried to 1A and 1.5A - no way. I really hope that everything will turn out tomorrow. Thanks for the video
By the way your adapter is not like mine. Apparently, in different regions of different designs.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's don't work It is a pity. Don't know what's next search. What's the problem
the adapter I have is a generic one I got from Monoprice; they're a company that sells cheaper electronic, which is usually made in China. Thus, it is not the official sumsung one.
it looks like you're still in the situation where you don't know if it is your phone or the MHL adapter where the problem lies. I would consider going to an electronics store that sells TVs, phones, video games, and so forth; whatever is the similar to Best Buy in the USA. I don't know the stores that would be in Moscow. Bring your phone and adapter and see if they will let you hook up to one of their TVs. Also, see if they will let you test out another adapter, maybe one that they sell. And maybe they can let you test Samsung Galaxy S3, S4 or Note 2 with your adapter.
I think it may be the easiest way to figure it out based on your don't know anyone locally with any of the Samsung phones list above. There's just too many variables right now to effectively to say one way or the other.
thank you very much for the advice. yesterday went to the official store samsung. asked to check but no one helped me. so I will look for original cable and test all over again. today tried my cable on another galaxy note 2. no reaction. even tried to connect another cable hdmi, the more expensive and high quality. It seems the problem is still in the adapter.
lovekeiiy said:
the adapter I have is a generic one I got from Monoprice; they're a company that sells cheaper electronic, which is usually made in China. Thus, it is not the official sumsung one.
it looks like you're still in the situation where you don't know if it is your phone or the MHL adapter where the problem lies. I would consider going to an electronics store that sells TVs, phones, video games, and so forth; whatever is the similar to Best Buy in the USA. I don't know the stores that would be in Moscow. Bring your phone and adapter and see if they will let you hook up to one of their TVs. Also, see if they will let you test out another adapter, maybe one that they sell. And maybe they can let you test Samsung Galaxy S3, S4 or Note 2 with your adapter.
I think it may be the easiest way to figure it out based on your don't know anyone locally with any of the Samsung phones list above. There's just too many variables right now to effectively to say one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lovekeiiy said:
the adapter I have is a generic one I got from Monoprice; they're a company that sells cheaper electronic, which is usually made in China. Thus, it is not the official sumsung one.
it looks like you're still in the situation where you don't know if it is your phone or the MHL adapter where the problem lies. I would consider going to an electronics store that sells TVs, phones, video games, and so forth; whatever is the similar to Best Buy in the USA. I don't know the stores that would be in Moscow. Bring your phone and adapter and see if they will let you hook up to one of their TVs. Also, see if they will let you test out another adapter, maybe one that they sell. And maybe they can let you test Samsung Galaxy S3, S4 or Note 2 with your adapter.
I think it may be the easiest way to figure it out based on your don't know anyone locally with any of the Samsung phones list above. There's just too many variables right now to effectively to say one way or the other.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
not aware of the USB debugging should be enabled or not? and then perhaps because of this problem?
that should not effect the HDMI/HML. Mine is always enableed, but only triggers when connected to a PC. Most likely, the HML uses more pins than the USB for a PC, which is why it doesn't trigger.
lovekeiiy said:
that should not effect the HDMI/HML. Mine is always enableed, but only triggers when connected to a PC. Most likely, the HML uses more pins than the USB for a PC, which is why it doesn't trigger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
May be you sell me your own ? :laugh: obviously work. or tell me where you bought?
My dock has been charging my phone perfectly for weeks, the other day I came in and plopped the phone on the dock and nothing.
I checked the pogo pins (of the dock) with a multimeter, they are working. I've tried different power sources for the dock as well (wall adapter, pc, other cables).
I've checked to make sure the pins are making contact with the phone, good solid contact.
I haven't changed anything on the phone recently, any suggestions?
The phone charges fine through USB.
[ANSWERED]
since i apparently posted this on the apple forums instead of xda, all the replies were "shoulda bought apple products"
so anyone having this problem, i solved it by reinstalling a nand backup. apparently it was a software issue. hopefully this saves you from the apple fanboys.
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
glukasil said:
do you have original sony cradle? i had chinese replica and it did not work all times.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I was too impatient for it and got the goosewhite dock, besides I like the looks of it better tbh. The dock is putting out power, I don't get why it's not charging. its not a complex system at all.
Get the Sony one if you don't want the same issue occurring.
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem? when voltage is applied to the pogo pins, the phone does not charge. how would changing the dock i use make a difference in that at all?
i would understand if the pogo pins were putting out less power or no power, but they put in exactly the amount of power going into the dock, they make good solid contact, i've check continuity and its making a solid connection...
Then take the dock apart and see if anything got loose
Sent from my C6603 using xda premium
Rajinn said:
why would changing the dock have anything to do with the problem?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
I brought this as an alternative to the Sony DK26 because I was sick of opening the flap everytime I wanted to charge my phone. It does fit the Xperia Z and looks nice enough. It also activates the dock mode and the Xperia's smart connect function. This is why I gave it 1 star. HOWEVER, it outputs at 500mA as opposed to the 1800mA delivered by the Sony dock. This means it charges your phone incredibly slowly. I had my phone on the dock charging for 11 Hours and it managed to deliver a battery charge of just 51% which is ridiculous compared to the Sony charger which delivers a 100% charge in 2 hours.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
- Review
XperienceD said:
Because the one you've bought is rubbish!
- Review
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
I do not get why would anyone go for something cheaper and unreliable. Its like those iPhone users buying cheap non original cables to charge their iPhones, ended up causing the phone to blow up or messed up and blames it on Apple.
and yes you are the owner of the phone and you have the right to buy whatever 3rd party equipment for your phone, but dont expect it to work 100%.
Doesnt make sense if you ask me sir.
It is really hard to determine the main cause of this matter. It could be your phone: hardware or software (i doubt it is this one), or the 3rd party dock.
You tell me which one to throw and buy a new one.
Already told you why I bought it. There's nothing but stupidity in that review as docks do not put out power, they transfer it, the power supply puts out power. As for the amperage, it puts out what you put in. it will do [email protected] if you are stupid enough to put that through it... Assuming the wires don't burn. if you are going to base your assumptions on a review, at least choose one from someone knowledgeable. also, my dock never took 11 hours to charge, not that i ever bothered timing it but it sure as hell wasnt more than 4 hours (and thats giving an a good bit of a safety margin), i'd guess 2 hours 0-100 if i had to.
What I'm telling you is that the phone is not accepting the charge, not that the dock is messed up but the phone. And I wanted to know if anyone had similar issues or suggestions.
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question. I've already informed you the dock is intact and making a connection. I've checked the voltage of the xperia official charger at the cable at its end: 4v dc, the dock when hooked to that charger is 4v dc tested at the pins. I can put a larger amount through it, and any number of amps. A pogo dock is a very simple device, official or otherwise, the difference is mainly in price and design. The diy thread is a perfect example of that.
@LitoNi
I took it apart, nothing is loose. thanks
Rajinn said:
I'm glad you have insight on the matter and an opinion, however you are not trying to answer the question.
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It's been answered, you've not bought an official product, that's the problem! Buy cheap unofficial batteries, expect issues, buy cheap replica SD Cards, expect issues, buy cheap unofficial chargers, expect issues, and looks like you can cheap docs to that list too.
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
btw fixed it, reinstalled my nand backup. software problem ftl.
didnt know this was an apple forum.
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Have same dock and same issue sometimes it doesn't want to charge but I just simply put it out and in and it works after reinserting.
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Rajinn said:
XperienceD, please continue answering me with your infinite wisdom you learned from the internet. obviously you know everything about electronics.
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I'm sharing what some of us have learned here, cheap non official products give issues, accept it or don't.
From me to you.