I'm stuck!
My touchpad was bumped off the wireless charger one night and the battery appeared to have died, and its never showed any lights, display, or signs of life since then. Tried multiple chargers and cables. I even replaced the battery which cost as much as another touchpad, disapppointingly no change, UGH
I found tpdebrick v005 and some instructions. Ran it on ubuntu 16, and got this error: https://imgur.com/a/D9AkT1c
I grabbed the typescript logs if those are useful to anyone ;-;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1n9EvzIe3oPZaJDaIlDoropskC7Iq1IHn/view?usp=sharing
WOW
I was reading through this thread https://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2126307&page=14
I noticed @jaycee147 saying something about seeing the same error I have and using heat to get past it......IT WORKED!!!
I ran tpdebrick with the autoreset option, then kept applying 30 seconds of heat from my hair dryer, then retrying whenever any step failed. Each new attempt gave new behavior until it magically started booting itself!
When I shut it down to fully reattach the display and seal it up, it refused to power on and show any signs of life again....
Repeating the same process of heating and tpdebrick brought it back again.
I will leave it on the charger until it's full and for the sake of science try to reboot it again and post my results
it rebooted and survived
it was able to shut down for a few seconds, and power back on
but powering it off one last time and back on again its acting like its totally dead again. back at it again with the hairdryer and if I get it working again I assume I'll NEVER be able to let it shut off again?
Nillanic said:
it rebooted and survived
it was able to shut down for a few seconds, and power back on
but powering it off one last time and back on again its acting like its totally dead again. back at it again with the hairdryer and if I get it working again I assume I'll NEVER be able to let it shut off again?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ambient temperature ( room temperature ) is very important when charging any Lithium ion battery. ( Warmer charges best than cold )
It is extremely important to never let the battery drain to zero capacity as it can go dormant and difficult to wake up.
The battery needs to be on charger for a full day, if the battery does not hold the charge check the " true capacity remaining"
I am way ahead of ya!
When I first got the tablet to boot up after reviving it, I let the battery charge to 100% for a few hours on the original touchpad charger
Once I shut it down and tried turning it back on, it refused.
Not sure what the battery charge has to do with this anymore? When I tore apart my old battery, the cells were still at 3.7 volts, so something else must have occured
Nillanic said:
I am way ahead of ya!
When I first got the tablet to boot up after reviving it, I let the battery charge to 100% for a few hours on the original touchpad charger
Once I shut it down and tried turning it back on, it refused.
Not sure what the battery charge has to do with this anymore? When I tore apart my old battery, the cells were still at 3.7 volts, so something else must have occured
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The only way to really know the ( TRUE ) capacity of the battery is by doing the following:
open a command prompt or terminal on a PC with the novacom driver and enter:
novacom -t open tty://
then
battery status
To know all the details of the battery you can read this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=80993173&postcount=17
The battery can be 100% charge but at what capacity?
I keep getting "unable to find device" after getting novacom to work : (
I searched these threads and can't find any solutions for this situation with novacom, supposedly there's supposed to be some sort of life from the tablet (buttons or display lighting up) for novacom to work?
I'm on ubuntu 12 32-bit using the same 32bit novacom drivers
Nillanic said:
I keep getting "unable to find device" after getting novacom to work : (
I searched these threads and can't find any solutions for this situation with novacom, supposedly there's supposed to be some sort of life from the tablet (buttons or display lighting up) for novacom to work?
I'm on ubuntu 12 32-bit using the same 32bit novacom drivers
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
For the novacom connection to work the Tablet needs to display the ( big white USB symbol )
select webOS Recovery from the moboot 0.3.8 menu.
When the USB symbol is shown then connect the tablet to PC using usb cable.
If the tablet is running low in memory, place the tablet on the wireless charger and use the usb cable to connect to PC at same time.
On this thread you can find a linux OS with the nocacom driver install, it can be boot from any PC or also be use in a virtual machine.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/hp-touchpad/general/hp-touchpad-novacom-repair-android-t3960435
To automatically get into recovery mode with the tablet off.
Press and hold at the same time:
Power and volume down key ( closer to power )
The Tablet will boot into Recovery mode.
HP_TOUCHPAD said:
For the novacom connection to work the Tablet needs to display the ( big white USB symbol )
select webOS Recovery from the moboot 0.3.8 menu.
When the USB symbol is shown then connect the tablet to PC using usb cable.
If the tablet is running low in memory, place the tablet on the wireless charger and use the usb cable to connect to PC at same time.
On this thread you can find a linux OS with the nocacom driver install, it can be boot from any PC or also be use in a virtual machine.
https://forum.xda-developers.com/hp-touchpad/general/hp-touchpad-novacom-repair-android-t3960435
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I greatly appreciate you trying to help, but I've mentioned a few times now that I have no such signs of life on the tablet, so I don't know how this helps at all : /
Thanks
Nillanic said:
I greatly appreciate you trying to help, but I've mentioned a few times now that I have no such signs of life on the tablet, so I don't know how this helps at all : /
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Very contradicting information, on your #6 post the tablet did boot. You also tried heating the tablet with an air dryer and that made it to charge and also boot. If the Tablet did boot, then is not brick.
I will help, but can only provide proper guidance if the correct information is provided.
Correct! As I said in post #6, I heated the tablet up and I was able to get tpdebrick to run and the tablet booted up as if nothing wrong happened.
I charged the battery to 100%, then tested a reboot, which it survived.
I then tested a shutdown and power on, and it survived.
I finally tried shutting it down one last time, and at this point it refused to power on again, no show of any LEDs or display with any charger or cable.
I'm not contradicting, what I'm saying is after I got it to boot with heat and tpdebrick, I shut the tablet down, and now it's refusing to do anything again (no leds, no display with any charger)
I hope that clears it up
Nillanic said:
Correct! As I said in post #6, I heated the tablet up and I was able to get tpdebrick to run and the tablet booted up as if nothing wrong happened.
I charged the battery to 100%, then tested a reboot, which it survived.
The battery can show 100% charged, but the most important is the capacity.
If the capacity is very low, it will loose charge very quickly and go dormant.
I then tested a shutdown and power on, and it survived.
Then the Tablet is not brick, all components are working. It seems the issue is a battery with very low capacity.
I finally tried shutting it down one last time, and at this point it refused to power on again, no show of any LEDs or display with any charger or cable.
Was the Tablet connected to a charger or place on the wireless charger all the time while on and off?
I'm not contradicting, what I'm saying is after I got it to boot with heat and tpdebrick, I shut the tablet down, and now it's refusing to do anything again (no leds, no display with any charger)
Battery is depleted.
I hope that clears it up
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try to revived it as before, only with some heat. I do not know your ambient temperature, is better if is over 80F to take some charge. It will take longer or not work in cold.
Boot tablet while place on the wireless charger at all time, do not removed it from the charger.
Hmmmm...
When I had it charging, it started at 15%, and after a few hours it went to 100% . I see what you're saying re. capacity, wish I had checked that while it was working.
I did not have it on a charger when I tested my reboots / shutdowns : ( I had too much faith in the battery's charge and being able to bring it back if I goofed.
I've been trying to heat it up for a few hours this morning and run tpdebrick and I still get the fuse error, but it progresses, writes stuff, and aborts when waiting too long for fastboot.
I guess I'll keep trying the heat with tpdebrick while having it also on the wireless charger until it works
Nillanic said:
Hmmmm...
When I had it charging, it started at 15%, and after a few hours it went to 100% . I see what you're saying re. capacity, wish I had checked that while it was working.
It takes more than a couple of hours to charge at full capacity. It all depends on the capacity available or the battery health. If is less, it will take less time to charge.
I did not have it on a charger when I tested my reboots / shutdowns : ( I had too much faith in the battery's charge and being able to bring it back if I goofed.
The battery capacity must be very low, that is why it turned off after a couple of reboots or until the battery got empty.
I've been trying to heat it up for a few hours this morning and run tpdebrick and I still get the fuse error, but it progresses, writes stuff, and aborts when waiting too long for fastboot.
If the Tablet already rebooted, is not brick. It needs to be charge.
I guess I'll keep trying the heat with tpdebrick while having it also on the wireless charger until it works
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Read this link very carefully, this is the real TRUTH of the tpdebrick process.
https://webos-internals.org/wiki/Last_Resort_Emergency_BootLoader_Recovery
If bootie on the flash disk has been damaged or corrupted in such a way that booting into recovery mode is not possible, the Pre is still not "bricked" as the OMAP3430 processor in the Pre provides for a mechanism to boot code from its USB interface.
The HP Touchpad uses the same OMAP3430 processor as the Pre and the same process to re-flash the bootie ( BIOS what is call on PC ) can be perform.
That is the process that tpdebrick is doing, reflashing the bootie.
Your tablet already booted, the bootie works.
I'm sorry, you're confusing me more.
How is it possible that when I put it on the OEM charger for a few hours and waited until it "reported" 100% that it still didn't have enough capacity to survive two shut-downs within a minute? The tablet wasn't off a charger for more than a few minutes total before it died.
The battery is brand new and still measures 3.7v at the cell. I have a hard time believing this is still the battery being a problem, but you certainly have more experience.
Are you saying I should follow the instructions on the link to recover, instead of tpdebrick?
Or are you saying my tablet is "working" right now and my battery is still too low? If this is the case shouldn't it show that it's charging? Shouldn't tpdebrick NOT fail at the fuse blown step in this case?
Thank you
Nillanic said:
I'm sorry, you're confusing me more.
I will try to explain it in a very generic and simple way.
How is it possible that when I put it on the OEM charger for a few hours and waited until it "reported" 100% that it still didn't have enough capacity to survive two shut-downs within a minute? The tablet wasn't off a charger for more than a few minutes total before it died.
Capacity or (battery health) = The amount of electricity it can be store in the active cells. (good cells ), dead cells or inactive does not store electricity.
The system reports 100% charge, but does not report the capacity. The only way to know is by entering the command using the novacom as mentioned before.
If the capacity is only 10% of active cells, it will show charge 100%, but it will lose charge very quickly.
This applies to all battery's.
The battery is brand new and still measures 3.7v at the cell. I have a hard time believing this is still the battery being a problem, but you certainly have more experience.
A battery can be new, but if stored improperly for many years can go bad.
The only way to know the battery health ( Capacity ) is by getting the reading of the A6 controller.
Are you saying I should follow the instructions on the link to recover, instead of tpdebrick?
The link I provided explains technically the reason a WebOS device may not boot.
And provides on how to re-flash the bootie and that is what the tpdebrick does.
tpdebrick is use to reflash the bootie to make the tablet to boot. It has nothing to do with the battery.
If a battery does not have enough electricity to power the internal components, the tablet can not boot.
If the bootie is damage, then it will not boot even if it has a brand new battery and full charge, then the tpdebrick needs to be done.
Or are you saying my tablet is "working" right now and my battery is still too low? If this is the case shouldn't it show that it's charging? Shouldn't tpdebrick NOT fail at the fuse blown step in this case?
Your tablet already booted, it shows all components were working, is not brick, by the way the tablet is un-brickable.
The tablet should show the LED light moving from side to side when connected to a charger. If not then try to warm it up and to intermittent charging, ON for 1 minute, OFF for 10 seconds. It can be done with the wireless charger. Place it on for one minute then remove it for 10 seconds. Do it many times, from time to time until it shows the LED light, then a low battery comes up and finally it will boot. Never remove it from the wireless charger.
Thank you
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are welcome, hopefully it resuscitates again !
Ok that all makes sense : )
I've been trying the intermittent charging w/ the wireless and heating it for the past hour and a half-ish, it's still not shown any signs of life. Should I keep going?
Oh, I have a kill-a-watt that tells me the power draw of anything plugged into it
Using the oem hp barrel charger, and the wireless pad, when plugging just the barrel into the socket, 0 amps. Plugging the wireless pad in, still 0 amps. Place touchpad on wireless charger, I see about 0.01-0.02 amps being drawn. The power draw never changes or fluctuates no matter how long it sits on the wireless pad
I don't see any amps pulled when trying to charge via microusb
Nillanic said:
Oh, I have a kill-a-watt that tells me the power draw of anything plugged into it
Using the oem hp barrel charger, and the wireless pad, when plugging just the barrel into the socket, 0 amps. Plugging the wireless pad in, still 0 amps. Place touchpad on wireless charger, I see about 0.01-0.02 amps being drawn. The power draw never changes or fluctuates no matter how long it sits on the wireless pad
I don't see any amps pulled when trying to charge via microusb
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wireless charger works better on charging a dead battery than the usb connection.
Make sure the ambient room temperature is over 80 F, or you can cover it while is been charge. You do this when you are home and supervising.
It can take time for the light to start blinking, some times like a week. Leave it on the charger and sometimes just pick it up and place it again, just when you are checking on it.
Leave it there for a couple of days.
Related
So I upgraded to the latest mr clean rom and did some tweaks with the registry Wizard. I was playing around with it for a while and turned it off to charge overnight. I wake up and try and turn it on and nothing. I've tried soft reset, and hard reset and it doesn't turn on or do anything. When I plug in my charger the light on my phone doesn't even come on. PLEASE HELP. WHAT CAN I DO!!!.
dew1989 said:
So I upgraded to the latest mr clean rom and did some tweaks with the registry Wizard. I was playing around with it for a while and turned it off to charge overnight. I wake up and try and turn it on and nothing. I've tried soft reset, and hard reset and it doesn't turn on or do anything. When I plug in my charger the light on my phone doesn't even come on. PLEASE HELP. WHAT CAN I DO!!!.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It seems that you bricked you phone mate. I think that you installed MrClean rom in a G4 phone so you irrimediably f*cked up the bootloader (IPL and SPL). Many users have reported that their phones were able to boot (and behaved normally) immediatly after the flashing but were dead after they turned them off for the first time, this is what happened to you.
Only thing you can try is going to bootloader mode (but i think it won't work since you messed the bootloader) and then flash a new rom. To do this, press and keep pressed both the keys on the right side and then insert a pin in the reset hole briefly. If the phone goes to the tri-colors screen then you're safe, if not continue reading.
If your warranty perior is not yet over then you can have a new phone for free (DON'T tell them that you flashed an experimental rom!!! Tell only that it went off suddenly or that you were installing an official rom!).
Service centre can repair your device (i suppose they've some method to reflash the bootloader) but i don't know how much they'll ask you.
Try asking other users on this forum. Sorry!
bye
...did you ry to recharge it with the ----ORIGINAL 1A CHARGER----? looks stupid, but i resuscitated mine just before throwing it in the bin. if it works, i will explain you the rest....
yup, I tried charging it with the home charger and still nothing. My battery reads at 3v and it's supposed to be 3.8 so it's not out of juice, but maybe it's just dead?
...you can try with just a normal 9 VDC battery, in order to boost up the voltage, to connect it for a few seconds to the ppc battery till you reach the 3.8 VDC and see if it's working...
Ok, i did that...and amazingly it turned on so I pluged it into the charger right away. Windows booted and about 20sec later the device turned off and won't charge again. So i tried again and the same thing happened. Do I need a new battery? TIA
dew1989 said:
Ok, i did that...and amazingly it turned on so I pluged it into the charger right away. Windows booted and about 20sec later the device turned off and won't charge again. So i tried again and the same thing happened. Do I need a new battery? TIA
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
This is waht you need:
http://www.thetravelinsider.info/phones/cellphonerecharger.htm
This charger is somehow wired weird... it charges the battery AND feeds juice to the phone at the same time (believe it or not, regular chargers and USB cables do not engage until the OS is loaded), allowing you to turn the phone on and in a few minutes plug it into the regular charger to continue charging. Just make sure you get the RAZR tip.
It has saved my ass more than once.
I fixed it , What I did was zap the battery with a 9v battery in 3 sec intervals, I did this about 5 times, then I pluged my phone into the charger and turned it on, the 9v gave it enough juice to boot up and the usb took over from there. So to everyone out there who is having this same problem, try this but don't over zap, check your battery with a multimeter.
im having the same problem----my MDA went dead last night because i forgot to charge the battery and then i went to plug it in the charger but the phone doesnt turn on no more...the light doesnt turn on like if it would be charging and i left it overnight and it still doesnt work..... do yall think that its the battery or is the phone just messed up and cant use it nomore????
Last time I had my battery completely drained, it wouldn't charge from laptop via USB. I read something about how the device's "smart-charging" function itself needs a bit of power to start-up...
but anyways, I couldn't charge the battery through the phone (software charging) - what I had to do was to take a USB cable, cut out one end, identify the +/- (red/black) wires, and charge them directly to the battery's two poles (metal plates). It took about 10-20 seconds of charging until I had enough power in the battery to place it back in the phone, start WM5 and charge it thru the phone.
It would have been much easier if you have a battery charger.
I had my phone connected to the computer through the usb cable, and I just left it connected for a week and it was completely dead and could not be turned on. I don't know how it drained the battery (probally by leaving the wifi on, but the computer was in use all the time). Anyway, thanks to this thread, I used the ac charger and it turned on.
Keywords: t-mobile tmobile mda phone won't don't turn on
phone down
thanks for infos
I'm going to give this a go; a Crossbow ROM flash went horribly wrong last night and in my attempts to repair it (I also must have flashed at least 9 times) the phone went dead. It won't charge either, but battery voltage is 3.7 volts, and I'm sat here wishing it was 3
Will get back to you all!
To update: no... it didn't work! I hooked the battery up to a computer power supply (nearest thing to hand) on 5v and 12v and the voltage increased to about 3.81V... I guess the battery is not the problem with my phone, though the symptoms were the same :-(
Any buttons I can press (i.e. like the voice command button for bootloader) to wake the damned thing up? It's probably fried.
Suggestion
CrArc said:
To update: no... it didn't work! I hooked the battery up to a computer power supply (nearest thing to hand) on 5v and 12v and the voltage increased to about 3.81V... I guess the battery is not the problem with my phone, though the symptoms were the same :-(
Any buttons I can press (i.e. like the voice command button for bootloader) to wake the damned thing up? It's probably fried.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My phone has a hardware problem with the on / off button (doesn´t work at all), at the beggining I thought it was a software problem and I tried all sort of tricks, then I gave up and recognized that was a hardware issue and I found 2 ways to turn the phone on 1) When is totally off (This happens when I have to remove the battery to change SIM card) I connect to the USB cable to my PC or to the car or wall charger and I make a soft reset. 2) When I see the phone signal led blinking I remove the memory card and wakes the phone up (not a good idea since I know that the card is going to get damaged sooner or later).
I just got a G3 wizard from a friend a couple days ago. On Thursday I upgraded it to XDA Mobile 6 and left it on the 2.25.11 (I think) T-Mobile Radio that the T-Mobile 2.26 firmware flash put on it. I used it all day on Friday and then I held the power button and shut the phone completely off for 25 hours, but left it plugged in to a usb to 110V AC adapter that came with my Dell Axim X50V. On Saturday night I went to turn it on and it would not come on no matter what I tried. I found this thread and checked the voltage on the battery directly with a multimeter, 3.13V. I cut the head off a usb cable and then held the black and red wires to the positive and negative terminals on the battery for 2 minutes with the head plugged into a front USB port on my PC. The multimeter then read 3.7V. I put it back into the MDA and it turned on, booted and informed me that the battery was completely drained. I plugged it into the USB to AC charger and it read 10% battery on BatteryStatus. I have left it to charge and it is currently at 60%.
I guess the lesson here is to not totally shut the phone off and let it sit, or the battery won't charge, even plugged into my charger. I guess the OS needs to be running in suspend mode for the charging circuit to run. I know I won't turn it all the way off ever again unless I have my little plug thing and my laptop with me.
(old) Nokia phones have a state called "Acting dead" (from service manuals) which takes place when phone is turned off and battery inserted. It means that the energy is flowing around the board so that the responsible hardware keeps waiting for a 'HIGH' signal ordering to turn ON the phone.
When batteries go bellow the 2.x volts they stop being charged by the phones. This is why i protect the battery terminals with tape when the phone is stored for some time and the reason why a lot of people thinks the phones are broken when not used for months. I usually use the 'freezer trick' where i leave the batteries inside the freezer all night and charge them next day.
just 2 cents...
My Wizard XDA got discharged over the weekend and wouldn't start up - after 12 hours on USB it still wouldn't start.
The charge tips saved my bacon - I modified a USB cable as per the instructions above, and used it to charge up the XDA battery - it only needed five seconds and the phone now boots!
Thanks All, great information!
My 2 cents...
If you're going to try the same, connect red usb to the +ve terminal of your battery and black USB to the -ve terminal of the battery. I'd suggest having a voltmeter to hand to check battery and supply voltage.
Disclaimer - the ablve worked for me, but I'm not responsible for anyone damaging themselves, their PC,their phone or anything else by using the above info!
BUMP! thought my phone was dead, hacked a USB cable and i'm back in business!!!!
TYTN II won't turn on
i left it plugged in all day and when i tried to turn it on it didn't respond. i have a second battery that was fully charged and that didn't work either. i tried a hard reset with it unplugged and with it plugged into the charger. nothing works. i'm on the standard at&t rom with lots of programs. i got it unlocked so i can't go to at&t.
Shortly: I flashed a new rom (not so new... Mameli 2.0 with WM6.1) and the upgrade process stuck on 99%, computer saying "All Done"
No so... trying to reboot the Wizard gets up the bootloader screen... no problem, will you say BUT... I was in a hurry so I leave the USB cable connected and go away for a few hours (I suppose the USB cable may keep powered the device but now I guess no... )
So, when I came back, the Wizard was turned off.
First try was soft resetting the device with no success: screen remains black.
Then I try to connect the power supply and nothing happened...
Then I pull off the battery and keep it off for a few seconds... I was googling with the device in this state when the bootloader screen pops up for not more then 15 seconds then blank again...
No way to enter bootloader mode or to hard reset the device...
I suppose the battery goes almost flat... and I've not a cradle... is there any way to charge the battery? or a way to build up a cradle-substitute?
May be the issue due to battery flat?
Thanks, Pino
Try plugging in to the original charger, not a USB cable, with the power off.
After about a minute you should see the orange LED turn on.
At least that has worked for me when my battery has been dead.
Nothing... It was already done... I suppose the charging doesn't happen if the OS didn't load... even if I read about some stating that if the charger supplies 1.0A the charge happens...
Now I'm trying to charge the battery with "alternatives" methods...
Thank you for your interest
and so?!?!?
So much lurking... noone writing?
Ideas welcome....
I've done something similar to this too, i.e., where battery gets so low that phone cannot start charging cycle.
Here is what I have done. Take note on the battery of the positive and negative terminals (clearly marked on battery). Use a regular 9V battery and some wire (or 9V connector) and connect the 9V to the phone battery (+ to + and - to -). Allow the phone battery to recharge some from the 9V. I suggest connecting for about 1 minute or so and then disconnecting again for 1 minute or so, and repeat this cycle a dozen times or (or more) using this 50% duty cycle charging. (not sure about charging current, nor heating of battery and don't want to overheat or damage the phone battery).
After giving the phone battery some (re)charging, then try plugging phone in to see if charging cycle comes on. (try first without trying to turn on the phone. If no response then try turning phone on while plugged in to USB). Generally makes no difference whether using USB plugged into computer, original charger or after market, ... phone does not, nor cannot discriminate between different 5V 'USB' sources.
If this doesn't work then the next step is to carefully touch the 9 V to the battery while in the phone and connected to USB (and to play this safe use charger, and not computer USB ... don't want to risk damage to computer). I would only try this if you feel extremely comfortable with electronics and voltages (albeit this is very low voltage) and as a last resort. KEEP IN MIND YOU WILL BE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK, and I don't want to be blamed for anything that may go wrong with the phone or otherwise by you trying this. This has worked for me on several occassions, but I am an engineer who has experimented with electronic ciruits off and on for 16 + years and so feel comfortable doing stuff like this. (again remember + to + and - to -, battery to battery).
Good Luck
First of all... Thanks for replying...
The problem isn't due to battery too much empty (it's a frequent issue, with mobile phones too...)
I suppose the Wizard needs be correctly initialized to start charging the battery and mine was in bootloader mode.
Sometimes I am able to power up the system for a little while and the bootloader screen appears but the battery doesn't charges so I cannot disconnect the power supply... this is why I suppose I'd get better times if I got a cradle.
Now I'm trying to arrange a flying connection between the battery and my kaiser's desktop charger to give the battery a bit of charge and verify my ipotesys (uh-oh... it's correctly spelled? sorry for my bad english....)
OK, wish me luck
stay tuned...
OK, no more bricked
The issue, as I supposed, was due to a flat battery!!!
I tried unsuccessfully to charge it back using the external charger for my Kaiser, probably the unsuccess was due to difficult to obtain a stable contact between charger pins and battery leads...
After that I remembered I had another battery. It wasn't used for a bit of months (I use the wizard just as backup, when the Kaiser is out of order) but luckily I stored it full charged so the battery was able to make my wizard power up (strange thing, I needed to keep the power button pressed as the device powers down as soon as I release the button!!!)
I tried to update the rom again but it failed at 99% so now I reverted to an old rom but the device is still alive...
Maybe I'll try again the update but not before having fully charged both batteries
See You and thanks to everyone tried to help...
Pino
This is the second time I've had my TP hit 0% battery while in CM9 (relatively recent nightly build) and auto power off and not respond to charging or boot attemps. I can't say for sure which nightly but probably from 6-12 months ago. It's been realtively stable with no problems i could discern. Anyways. Recently, the first time it lost power down to 0% I searched for solutions to the problem. I found the solution, based on the symptoms, to be TPdebrick. I followed those directions to the letter and within a day or two my TP was back up and running after fully charging. I don't recall precisely what occured after completing TPdebrick and the TP booting up again as I had gone to sleep, then to work, had a bunch of other stuff to do after work, then sleep again before I went to check on the TP to use it.
I'm concerned that it isn't actually charging it this time, even though TPdebrick completed successfully. I have tested the USB cable and charger and they are both fuctioning and able to charge my smartphone. The wierd thing is it did charge for a short period of time right after using TPdebrick (according to the output the battery voltage was at 30xxxxx [I don't remember the numbers where I substituted xxxxx]). But not enough for it to reach minimum charge to boot. When after 24 hours on the charger it was still no responsive I thought I'd run TPdebrick again to try and jump start it again so to speak. This time around from the log is the following:
Starting battery authentication...
Battery authentication successful.
battery_info.percentage = 0, battery_info.voltage = 3225680, battery_info.current = 937, battery_info.temperature = 20
This appears to show that it did charge up a little bit from that brief time it began to charge. And that it was recieving a small amount of charge from the PC. Typically when it is charging the cylinder part that plugs into the outlet gets warm. But it isn't getting warm as expected when the TP is connnected. I've also twisted the plug part off and back on several times along with using my smartphone to test that it was able to charge each time. So I'm stuck not knowing if the TP is actually charging because I have no visual or physical indicators that I can determine if it is or not. Any help would be appreciated.
Install the attached file to your touchpad and run it with your charger plugged in. It will tell you if your battery is charging and what current it is receiving.
Just unzip the attachment and install the .apk
Peace
chris5s said:
Install the attached file to your touchpad and run it with your charger plugged in. It will tell you if your battery is charging and what current it is receiving.
Just unzip the attachment and install the .apk
Peace
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Click to collapse
Since I can't boot the TP how do I install that and use it to get the info? Unless there is a misunderstanding. TPdebrick fixes it so it can charge so it will boot but I don't know if it is for sure charging so that it will eventually boot or if I need to use TPdebrick again. Assuming that despite the appearance of TPdebrick having completed successfully running it somehow didn't fix something. I would assume that at this point my options are few. If software means of getting it to boot again don't work I would have to disassemble the TP to get inside and somehow charge the battery up with a crude hand made rig or something. Assuming that the failure to boot is simply lack of charge. As it was the last time this happened. And needed TPdebrick so that it would charge up in that too low state. The last resort option would be get inside it or whatever other method needed to copy the data off of the internal storage (part seen as SD card) in the state it is in. And if the storage can somehow be wiped from there sell it for parts if it ends up not repairable.
It could also be a dodgy Usb connection/board on the TP several people including myself have had this problem.
Well if tpdebrick got it up and running before can you not repeat the process to enable you to charge the tablet. Then you'd be able to install the tpcharge app and go from there ...
Does the back of the TP get warm/hot after charging? On my TP the back area near the volume buttons gets warm after being plugged in for a few hours.
sstar said:
It could also be a dodgy Usb connection/board on the TP several people including myself have had this problem.
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chris5s said:
Well if tpdebrick got it up and running before can you not repeat the process to enable you to charge the tablet. Then you'd be able to install the tpcharge app and go from there ...
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HKSpeed said:
Does the back of the TP get warm/hot after charging? On my TP the back area near the volume buttons gets warm after being plugged in for a few hours.
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Click to collapse
When charging any old day while I am using it I have noticed that area get warm. Just like the cylinder of the charger getting warm almost hot. Neither of that is happening which leads me to believe there may be something more wrong than just the simple yet not so simple problem that TPdebrick fixes. I've ran TPdebrick on it several times now twice before posting the thread and twice after. In completed it's execution with "all done" message. The port itself appears to function otherwise TPdebrick would fail before completing due to a USB connection failure. At least it seems to me it would fail as a result of that. Is there a way any of the parts can be tested for failure to figure out what has failed? Again assuming that something has gone bad internally on the TP. It has been plugged in for now 48 hours only interrupted by running TPdebrick. Of which I could run it again and get the info from the log I previously posted to see how it has changed. I have no idea what the numbers mean other than the battery percent being reported as 0.
I forgot to mention previously that it was plugged in at the time the battery went to 0%. Something I had not expected to occur. The battery icon in CM9 indicated charging with the lighting bolt icon as I had seen the icon just before it auto shutdown. Something I didn't give much thought to as that had happened one time a long time ago when I still had only webOS on it. Except webOS didn't let the battery get too low and it simply booted back up a minute or two after the charger was reconnected after it auto shutdown. So I guess if there is anything I can do to figure out why it isn't charging to know what needs to be fixed and if it is worth fixing and I'm able to fix it then I'd like to fix it. Otherwise I'll need a way to recover the data off of the storage so I can at least not have to start completely over with most of it. Nothing real important on it or anything that if lost would be detrimental just time lost in game progress and related and having to download oddball files for other apps again.
Just out of interest ... my touchpad that was not charging properly thru the usb port still managed to get thru the tpdebrick process to the "All Done" stage. However, it would only take a maximum of 100mA, even off the 2A mains charger. Changing the usb port resolved the chraging issue.
Peace
Edit: also, a touchstone - wireless - charger will eliminate a battery vs USB port fault ...
I have good news and bad news. The good news I'm able to charge my TP with a charger other than the official one. I tried my smartphone charger which is significantly lower amps. In 9 hours it has charged it 30% while it remained in the powered off state. I booted it up a few minutes ago hoping that it had charged it up. I powered it off again and will charge it to 100% before using it.
The bad news is the official chargers cylinder is shot. This is the second official one I have gone through since purchasing my TP during the fire sale. So I'm not sure what I'll do about that. I only really use it as an ebook reader right now and as an alternative to some things I use my smartphone for when I have both available to me. Considering my netbook is in need of replacing due to a failing charging port I am looking to get a windows 8 pro hybrid tablet (ex acer w700) which would effective replace both the netbook and TP. Leaving the TP as a much more of an experimentation device.
mine does not charge in android OS after installing CM 4.1.2 over old cherry kang
im getting current500mA in touchpad chargetest if connected to PC back 2.0 port, charge icon does not appear
charges if on webOS
Having the same issue as serialteg described. Just flashed to 10.2 (09/20 NIGHTLY) and TP cannot charge on CM. Switching back to WebOS, it's being charged.
Fixed. The infamous MTP issue was what I had. Solution found.
Hello my Xperia Sp just run out of battery and shut down.I pluged it in saw the sony logo and when i tried to turn it on it would not respond.
The only thing it did was kept the red light on (indicating charging).I tried pressing the off button for over 30 seconds with no results. Not it is stuck and i cant do anything about that.
Help please.
Nevermind the problem got fixed by itself.
The battery (about 2 % run out and the phone kinda reseted itself.It opened just fine.
So if anyone else gets this problem just let your battery drain itself.
jackaros said:
Hello my Xperia Sp just run out of battery and shut down.I pluged it in saw the sony logo and when i tried to turn it on it would not respond.
The only thing it did was kept the red light on (indicating charging).I tried pressing the off button for over 30 seconds with no results. Not it is stuck and i cant do anything about that.
Help please.
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Just to confirm you plugged it into a mains supply? USB from your computer to phone charging is not enough to kick start a totally dead battery.
If you have plugged it in to a wall socket and it still doesn't work, give it some time.
I think the battery and the phone's software combine to stop the phone operating at unsafe voltages, the safe operating range for a standard lithium ion batteries is 3.2-4.2 volts (though android may be different). They spend most of their time at 3.7 volts though and this is why they are described as such when you buy them separately.
If, for some reason your phone's software thinks your battery is at 3.1 volts, it won't do anything until it thinks it's at 3.2. Similarly if a protected battery is taken below 3.2 volts it won't provide any power until it hits its minimum voltage. In theory your phone should have cut out before the protection cut in, but bad stuff happens to good people.
Sometimes a protected battery gets drained so much that the tiny flow of electricty required to power the protection circuit stops and as the ultimate failsafe, protected batteries stop working when this circuit is not functioning.
(I'm talking about standard batteries here, not necessarily phone ones)
Sometimes cheap basic chargers won't be able to get such batteries working, but better chargers are able to send tiny trickles to a battery to start the protection circuit and make such batteries charge again. I'd be very surprised if android didn't take this into account and have some way of ensuring over-discharged batteries with a tripped protection circuit can be charged. That said I'm not sure whether the protection is all software on mobile phones?
Like I say give it some time - getting that first .1 of a volt can take a while when the battery is totally flat. If it hasn't changed after at least 2 hours then I'd worry.
Parkside said:
Just to confirm you plugged it into a mains supply? USB from your computer to phone charging is not enough to kick start a totally dead battery.
If you have plugged it in to a wall socket and it still doesn't work, give it some time.
I think the battery and the phone's software combine to stop the phone operating at unsafe voltages, the safe operating range for a standard lithium ion batteries is 3.2-4.2 volts (though android may be different). They spend most of their time at 3.7 volts though and this is why they are described as such when you buy them separately.
If, for some reason your phone's software thinks your battery is at 3.1 volts, it won't do anything until it thinks it's at 3.2. Similarly if a protected battery is taken below 3.2 volts it won't provide any power until it hits its minimum voltage. In theory your phone should have cut out before the protection cut in, but bad stuff happens to good people.
Sometimes a protected battery gets drained so much that the tiny flow of electricty required to power the protection circuit stops and as the ultimate failsafe, protected batteries stop working when this circuit is not functioning.
(I'm talking about standard batteries here, not necessarily phone ones)
Sometimes cheap basic chargers won't be able to get such batteries working, but better chargers are able to send tiny trickles to a battery to start the protection circuit and make such batteries charge again. I'd be very surprised if android didn't take this into account and have some way of ensuring over-discharged batteries with a tripped protection circuit can be charged. That said I'm not sure whether the protection is all software on mobile phones?
Like I say give it some time - getting that first .1 of a volt can take a while when the battery is totally flat. If it hasn't changed after at least 2 hours then I'd worry.
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Click to collapse
The phone was pluged in the wall socket.After this i tried to turn it on (while pluged) nothing happened so i unpluged it to press the off button (i upluged it because i could not reach the button because i had the case on) but the red light ( at the bottom of the device indicating charging) did not turn of.So i tried to reset the device by pressing the off button but i waited for almost 30 seconds (while pressing it) and nothing ... not even a vibration.So i left the phone away with the light stick on till the 1 % left was drained and the phone shut down due to lack of power.
So then i pluged it back in to the wall socket and it started charging again and so i turned the device on.This time it responed and opened up .Now nothing is wrong
It happened again.... i dont know the problem but the solution was the same...
jackaros said:
The phone was pluged in the wall socket.After this i tried to turn it on (while pluged) nothing happened so i unpluged it to press the off button (i upluged it because i could not reach the button because i had the case on) but the red light ( at the bottom of the device indicating charging) did not turn of.So i tried to reset the device by pressing the off button but i waited for almost 30 seconds (while pressing it) and nothing ... not even a vibration.So i left the phone away with the light stick on till the 1 % left was drained and the phone shut down due to lack of power.
So then i pluged it back in to the wall socket and it started charging again and so i turned the device on.This time it responed and opened up .Now nothing is wrong
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Click to collapse
You left the phone in the charger to drain or not? If i put the charger off then red light isn't opened..
Also, how many hours did you wait?
billaras481 said:
You left the phone in the charger to drain or not? If i put the charger off then red light isn't opened..
Also, how many hours did you wait?
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It took about half an hour because of the battery level being low.
Guys im having the same problem.. anyone who can help will be appreciated.
I know that it has been said that "if your touchpad completely dies, you must have the OEM charger to start it back up". At first this seems true. . .However! I would like to report that twice now, when it was completely dead and displaying the "plug in the original charger for reliable charging or die because im a juice nazi", I was able after about 4 hours of just leaving it alone plugged into a 1amp phone charger, to get it to charge up and boot. This may have already been discovered but I couldn't find mention of it. Just wanted to give hope to someone that might have given up on this.
einstein910 said:
I know that it has been said that "if your touchpad completely dies, you must have the OEM charger to start it back up". At first this seems true. . .However! I would like to report that twice now, when it was completely dead and displaying the "plug in the original charger for reliable charging or die because im a juice nazi", I was able after about 4 hours of just leaving it alone plugged into a 1amp phone charger, to get it to charge up and boot. This may have already been discovered but I couldn't find mention of it. Just wanted to give hope to someone that might have given up on this.
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So when you connect 1 amp phone charger, does the TP says to connect the original charger? Even if it says to connect the original charger, and leaving it for 4 hours the TP charged is that right???
My problem is when I connect to cell phone charger, it says to connect original charger.
When I connect original charger, the TP stays at 0% even after connecting the charger overnight. I dont know what is the problem? is it charger, is it battery or is it TP..
atrix4nag said:
So when you connect 1 amp phone charger, does the TP says to connect the original charger? Even if it says to connect the original charger, and leaving it for 4 hours the TP charged is that right???
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Yes.
atrix4nag said:
My problem is when I connect to cell phone charger, it says to connect original charger.
When I connect original charger, the TP stays at 0% even after connecting the charger overnight. I dont know what is the problem? is it charger, is it battery or is it TP..
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Click to collapse
The message will be displayed but it is gradually charging in the background. When it gets enough juice, it will start up and charge faster. In your case it sounds like either your port or battery are damaged somehow. Possibly the charging circuitry but that is unlikely. If you don't have an original charger or touchstone, then your options are limited. They aren't very expensive on ebay though. I would let it charge on a good 1 amp charger for a few days and see what happens then. Mine did the "soft brick" crap once where it was completely unresponsive and ran completely dead and i just charged it for 4 days and forgot about it and when i remembered it, it had powered on and booted. TPs are funny devices. Expect anything and report it if you don't mind. Maybe we can get this sorted out.
einstein910 said:
Yes.
The message will be displayed but it is gradually charging in the background. When it gets enough juice, it will start up and charge faster. In your case it sounds like either your port or battery are damaged somehow. Possibly the charging circuitry but that is unlikely. If you don't have an original charger or touchstone, then your options are limited. They aren't very expensive on ebay though. I would let it charge on a good 1 amp charger for a few days and see what happens then. Mine did the "soft brick" crap once where it was completely unresponsive and ran completely dead and i just charged it for 4 days and forgot about it and when i remembered it, it had powered on and booted. TPs are funny devices. Expect anything and report it if you don't mind. Maybe we can get this sorted out.
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Click to collapse
Thanks for prompt response..
I have original wall charger, and got a new cable from ebay. So I am hoping its equivalent to original charger. How can I debug if the port or battery is damaged.. any idea?
I left it on charge overnight yesterday. It was at 0, in the morning.. I left it on charge today before coming to office. i am expecting it to be at 0, when I go home.. When its connected to charger, its working normally (with 0 battery), but as soon as i remove from charger, it will shutdown..
Morning, when I was charging,
the battery monitor widget app showing Battery flow as "-600mA". I think this should be +ve while charging. the same app was showing status as "Charging AC plugged". I will try to charge my phone with the same cable and charger, if the phone shows +ve current flow, then, its deffinetly should be problem with the battery or touchpad right..
I wil test it in the evening.. and if its problem with battery or touchpad.. i will try to clean the TP and will try again.. Lets see how it goes
Ok so you have the original charger, great! And it boots into android/webos correct? It sounds like your A6 firmware might have crapped out or whatever it does to cause battery issues. Probably not bad battery if this happened rather suddenly, and its not a bad port if its booting and running while plugged, even if its not charging. . .so go here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2756314
and read it carefully! With this tool, you can do some really cool stuff including re-flashing the A6 battery monitor/control chip. It can (but might not) fix issues like this. Give it a try with a good cable and let me know what happens. Good luck!
einstein910 said:
Ok so you have the original charger, great! And it boots into android/webos correct? It sounds like your A6 firmware might have crapped out or whatever it does to cause battery issues. Probably not bad battery if this happened rather suddenly, and its not a bad port if its booting and running while plugged, even if its not charging. . .so go here:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2756314
and read it carefully! With this tool, you can do some really cool stuff including re-flashing the A6 battery monitor/control chip. It can (but might not) fix issues like this. Give it a try with a good cable and let me know what happens. Good luck!
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Click to collapse
I rebooted to webOS, and TP charged normally.. now i updated to CM11, all good as of now.. Thanks for helping me..
only bad part is i disassembled, before booting to webOS
Aw dude....well hey it happens to the best of us lol. Now u know a lot more about ur tablet and i would still recommend reflashing the A6 and removing webos if u dont use it. Tptoolbox can also be "installed" by renaming the boot image .bin file to uImage.TPtoolbox and placing it in /boot on your android partition. This allows moboot to see it. Off topic i know but i thought you might be interested. Best of luck with the re-assembly!
einstein910 said:
Aw dude....well hey it happens to the best of us lol. Now u know a lot more about ur tablet and i would still recommend reflashing the A6 and removing webos if u dont use it. Tptoolbox can also be "installed" by renaming the boot image .bin file to uImage.TPtoolbox and placing it in /boot on your android partition. This allows moboot to see it. Off topic i know but i thought you might be interested. Best of luck with the re-assembly!
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Click to collapse
You can only install TPToolbox as described if you have removed WebOS.
shumash said:
You can only install TPToolbox as described if you have removed WebOS.
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Click to collapse
why is that?
einstein910 said:
why is that?
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Because there's not enough room for both, and it's designed to run in the WebOS userspace. Don't even try it; I speak from experience.
einstein910 said:
why is that?
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Click to collapse
Because the boot folder is not big enough with the webOS uImage.
Fixed my Touchpad!
I had the same issue and just wanted to report what worked for me. My touchpad wasn't responding to any button pressing combos and even after sitting on the charger for two days, didn't want to turn on. After some google searching I found my Touchpad might be so dead that the charging circuity might not want to charge the battery and all the fixes were telling me to take apart the Touchpad and charge the battery directly. That's not something I really wanted to do. Then another person suggested to charge the Touchpad with a lower amp charger, so I plugged the Touchpad into an iPhone charger for about an hour. I came back, held the power button and home button - nothing. Tried power, volume up, and home - nothing. But then I held the power button and hit the home button ~10 times and then... the home button started blinking left and right. YES! I took the Touchpad and put it on the original charger, 15 minutes later it had the Low Battery Screen and another 15 minutes later, Cyanogenmod was booting.
I need help. When I try to transfer the Android files to the HP TouchPad using TPtoolbox, Windows says that there is an F drive that I have to format before I use it. In the tutorials, a drive labeled HP TOUCHPAD or something like that shows in Windows, and you can put the Android files inside of the ttinstall folder. Should I format the drive and if so, what format?
Oh sorry, I posted to the wrong thread.