Related
Has anyone tried the remote control software Total Remote with the related infra red transmitter module on the XDA(http://www.griffintechnology.com/griffinmobile/totalremote/index.html)
I am trying it with the XDA II.
To send it works fine, but I am having big trouble to make it learn.
Felipe
More details on this product
I have checked the website but cannot find out more details.
What hardware does the product come with? It looks like a small round "ball" and from the website sounds like it plugs in via the speaker socket.
How does this "ball" attach to the PDA?
Do you have to use the earphone socket on the PDA for the "ball" to work? If so does that mean all sounds are directed through the "ball" and you get no sounds from the PDA until the headphone jack is unplugged?
at least judging from that ipaq picture is does use the audio connector because thats where the ipaqs connector is
Here is what I discovered with my experience using the Total Remote:
1st- Yes it is like a ball with two (they claim) powerfull IR trasmitter (see site)
2nd - Yes it goes on the earphone jack
3rd - Yes you lose the sound while using it. But the you just need to lose the conector a little not take it all off.
4th- Since the conector in the XDA II is proprietary, you will need to buy a special adaptor. I found one at expansys and it work pretty well, plus it is small and is curved, so if you use the standard XDA II case you can bend the wire and conector to the side of the case and plug the TR module, you then can adapt some kind of tape or leather on the side of it to keep it protected and tight with the case.
5th - The software promises to be far better then the pronto from philips. In a matter of fact it comes with a module that let you use the files used on the pronto software but they don´t appear to be as good as thee Total Remote one.
6th - The module and software will work very fine to TRANSMIT and also from a good distance (large rooms)
BUT NOT EVERYTHING IS A SEA OF ROSES: Lets enumerate the bad points.
1st - And most important, the XDA II is not capable of receive any IR signal from any remote controle and I tryed more the 15 , with diferent distances (even with the IR window of the XDA II and the remote controler windows touching each other) and diferent time pressing the buttons. If it can´t receive it cant learn, if it can´t learn it useless, unless you use any of the pre determined profiles, wich I do not because I bought this for customization. And no the module will not work to receive the signals only the IRda port of the XDA II.
2nd - By needing the adaptor you rise the cost of the entire package.
3rd - The Techsupp of Griffing technology is very bad. They do not read my emails with attention, they do not have much interest to solve problems or they are really dumb regarding the matter including their own software and module and they do not force themselves (creativity and imagination) to try a workaround with their customers. Plus they are rude.
BUT there is a possible way around the learning problem. But that involves more then only the Total Remote software and hardware and the XDA II.
I did not tested this yet but I really think this can work.
As I already told you, the Total Remote let us use the pronto files, in a matter of fact it emulate the pronto software.
If you have the software to design the pronto pages, you can do it and also get the right IR codes from the Remotte Central site. There is a very good chance you can get exactly the IR code you will need for each button on your virtual control. So it is not as pratical as learning directly from the remote control, but it is a solution.
But there is a higher level of solution for this too.
If you have a Pronto, Marantz or any other remote controler that use those files on Pronto software and hardware, you can just use it to learn all the IR signals from other controls and then load it on the computer, after that you can access the IR codes from the Pronto design software and aply them to the pages of your new virtual remote that will be loaded to the XDA II and used with Total Remote.
Unfortunatelly you will not be able to use Total Remote, but only the Pronto emulator, wich I think there is some disvantage points like lower page resolution.
If at least the people in Griffin let us aply the IR code from the software , this would make things much better. But I think they are not inclined even to take suggestion.
Hope this helps.
Any questions?
Felipe
Thank you!
It was a very interesting and clear description.
Thank you for taking the time to expain us all of that.
Chris
Thanks for that
Thanks,
That was quite enlightening.
I think I'll hold off on it though. My main use would require learning I think and it sounds convoluted to get it to use these learned commands. I think I'll have to look for something else!
sure i would had liked using my xda2 as a remote but with all that it's more trouble then it's worth
that is so informative,
but its also expensive and INTENSIVE. Clever though it seems, its hard o setup and involves additional hardware. What i would have wished for...Remote Control applications that only uses the existing XDA 2 IR port...if only it could THROW signales that far.
But thanks for the info. I might try it someday, when perfected.
There is hope! This is what I am waiting for!
Hi!
Have a look at this SD to IR remote:
http://www.novii.tv/blaster/
it now works only with PALM (on just with a few model) but the the developer promises he is developing a version for PPC!!!
Chris
chameleon said:
that is so informative,
but its also expensive and INTENSIVE. Clever though it seems, its hard o setup and involves additional hardware. What i would have wished for...Remote Control applications that only uses the existing XDA 2 IR port...if only it could THROW signales that far.
But thanks for the info. I might try it someday, when perfected.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes unfortunatelly it is an expessive and very complex solution. But at least in part I did not choosed this.
I live outside USA and this make things more complicated.
I first bought the TR, then I discovered that it does not work with the earphone jack.
Since I could not get a refund from the TR because I am not in USA and I still would like to make use of it (even because I had already paid for), I then spent more money with the earphone adaptor.
And for my bad luck, the XDA II did not worked learning those controls.
The complicated part comes from the fact that now I spent more money with two pieces of hardware and since my nature is not to give up expecially with computer things, I then tryed to find another way to make it work. I even took in consideation to remove the actual IRda and substitute it with another kind of IR emitter.
I don´t have much time also but as soon as I get some I will try my theory and let you know if it work.
Meanwhile I really suggest you to buy from another company. It is more cheapper and give less headaches.
Felipe
Have some1 tried to:...
To learn the codes using the biult in IR on the XDA and then replug the thing on the earphones jack to use the remote ?????
It's an obvious thing that may be overlooked.... perhaps ?letme know...
BTW I"m looking for the pin out of the Ir that goes onto the earphone jack as I hava stripped the ir from an IPAQ 2210 and wanna attach it to my XDA IIs....
any advise ???
Here is an interesting link. It seems you can record the "sounds" that infrared emits and utilize it. Although the article refers to ipod it also says it will work with pocket pc and laptop etc. 100 feet range.
http://features.engadget.com/entry/6336778455600767/
ok i have a htc eris and a peripheral ir blaster that connects through the headphone jack can someone make an app that uses this to control tvs and such
who makes it
Is it the total remote made by griffin? Is it the Novii?
Hi everybody,
Well I thought I solved my problem, but the guz who wanted to help me, let me down.
I wanted to make a good handsfree for the xda. I let go from the idea that I could involve my car stereo (no in at the device) so I wanted to make a solution with a seperate loudspeaker and a seperate microfone.
But the guy said to me that he will not take the risk...
What risk?
I myself have no technical abilities at all :-(
Cant solder have no idea about how to solve it. The solutions offered on the market seem to be verry bad and expensive. Bad sound, bad micro etc. I also wanted to involve a GPS mouse in the system.
It is clear to me how it should work, but I cant do it, being such an technical looser. If I would have to solder anything I would have one big bunch of connections, soldered together.
I have money I could pay for it....If I have to.....
Anyone there who thinks he could help me?
Please, I am desperate and lost...
Thanks
WK
maybe that bring some explanation as far as audio ....
cables are concerned, the little descriptive reading show you different audio options you can consider for you in-the-car equipment
http://forum.xda-developers.com/viewtopic.php?t=4722
regards, monika
re
Hi Monica,
Thanks a bunch.Tough it was not exactly what I was looking for it helped me further a bit.
I wanted to make a car kit for my car. But as I look deeper in the subject I might go for a headset. Is there any way to get the plugs in europe?
I would like to get one, but ordering it in the US will cost a fortune.
Any idea?
Thanks
WK
WK, i'm currently in the process of building a fully featured car kit for the XDA, I'm waiting on a PCB at the moment, but as soon as it arrives I will be trying to get the project finished.
The solution uses an external mic (not the XDA's) and provides line out via RCA's, and finally a telephone mute signal for incar stereo.
I will post when the project is complete, and if all goes well, I can put together some sort of guide for you guy's if you wish..
Cheers
Neil
Swifty said:
WK, i'm currently in the process of building a fully featured car kit for the XDA, I'm waiting on a PCB at the moment, but as soon as it arrives I will be trying to get the project finished.
The solution uses an external mic (not the XDA's) and provides line out via RCA's, and finally a telephone mute signal for incar stereo.
I will post when the project is complete, and if all goes well, I can put together some sort of guide for you guy's if you wish..
Cheers
Neil
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi Neil
I'm in the phase of making experiments with my XDA1 and external car kits.
I already prepared a XDA connector with a 2Mt cable that have all the connector signal:
-Power supply
-Car on wire
-Mic in
-Stereo Out
-RS232 (for my GPS mouse)
-USB (for future use like external HD!)
I'm now tring to find a solution for the "radio muting"
Can you give me infos on where you find the project?
Bye
I am keen also to get more info on that
regards, monika
Hey all, I have been reading like crazy for months, have donated to the site and to some of the developers as well as pledging to the driver cause and doing my best to contact everyone from HTC to people in the press who have covered the issues as well as contacting people/organizations who haven't covered the issues yet.
I have searched and read everything I can about getting audio IN to the Kaiser and haven't seen much activity concerning the subject, so I thought it would be cool to create a thread that deals with this issue. I am going to use this thread to document my experiments. I believe this is the best way I can give back to the community aside from the financial support I show developers etc.
I am a pro musician & producer and want to use Meteor to record song ideas while I am traveling. I am looking to get line level signals into my HTC TYtN II and using the Meteor multi track recorder
http://www.4pockets.com/product_info.php?p=82
It would be very cool to use Meteor to write and record song ideas when I travel. It doesn't have to be super high quality audio, I just want to have a recording of my song ideas so I don't forget them. I have a little electronics device I plug my guitar in that makes it sound like a guitar amplifier. Think of it as a type of audio player for guitars that has an output like an ipod or whatever. I have a little drum machine and a synth keyboard and things like that (they all use line level signals). I do not want to use a microphone I want to use a line level signal from other devices.
Using this diagram
http://wiki.xda-developers.com/index.php?pagename=Trinity_EMUConnector
.... I am looking to get an electronics technician to make me a custom plug that will let me get audio into the TyTN II. I suspect that it will be a mic level signal as opposed to a line level signal but I am not sure about this. I have a great deal of experience with music gear, and very little experience with hand held devices in terms of understanding the hardware.
I suspect that whatever audio does get into the Kaiser will be treated as a mic signal, even if a direct signal is used (unless sendign data via USB is possible). I am going to try and get the tech to make a couple of custom cables using HTC's proprietary ExtUSB connector, but if I cant get one made for ExtUSB, I will get cables made that will work using one or more of the the inputs on a 3 in 1 adapter as seen here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-in-1-USB-3-5m...ryZ15040QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I am assuming audio applications will be able to "see" the audio once it is sent via the connection.
Some things I am looking into:
1. What format the TyTN II will use for audio that is sent in to it through a custom cable?
2. What kind of quality will the audio will be? WHat kind of control will we have over that audio?
3. Will it be stereo capable or just mono? I am fairly certain that only mono audio is possible via the mic input part of the ExtUSB input.
4. I wonder if audio can be imported in real time via USB connection or if audio can only be imported via the pins that enable a mic for phone use?
Like I said, I will share what I find out and if anyone happens to have ideas or knowledge please reply in this thread.
There are other uses too, aside from using multi track audio applications. If I can get this to work (I am pretty sure I can) , how would you use it?If you have ideas, perhaps you can sHare ways we could take advantage of importing audio into the Kaiser.
Bump this, i have been thinking about this also, if it had 2 seperate headphone and mic plugs, the adaptors for say a guitar or bass would be basic, since the mic is mono and so are the insturments. If i had the tools for micro-miniature soldering, i'd be able to do it easily. but i dont, so if any1 wants to make a couple, i would purchase it in a heartbeat.
You can use meteor or any recorder on the handset, if you're in a quiet room the internal mic does record sound pretty good. if there was a way to do multi tracks at the same time(multiple leads) now that would be something.
Yep, big bump from me. MeTeor is fantastic, having a little recording studio anywhere is great. However, getting a line-in would just open up everything!
Caleb
Hey guys I am a newbie to app development and I have gotten as far as doing the tip calculator. I am trying to make an intervalometer app based on the ti- calculator app at the link below. Basically, it would use the headphone jack to trigger a camera remote shutter release at a predictable rate for time lapse photography on a Canon DSLR. Here is the TI-83 reference. Any idea how to do this on android. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated.
http://potatoeskillme.com/code/ti-86-intervalometer-for-canon-xti/
Dude, I'm really sorry I'm not skilled enough (yet) to help make this happen.
What a fantastic idea! I would love to see this happen.
Anyone have an idea how to access the audio port in code? I have to close the loop on the headphone jack for an instant and then release it.
You are attacking the wrong hole.
Audio jacks don't behave in the same way as the TI data jack.
Investigate using USB.
I would love to see some sort of wireless control of the camera's basic functions, similar to the hardware wireless control modules for those cameras.
Perhaps easier to accomplish and just as nice would be a way to make the camera a wi-fi storage device for those level Canon cameras. It would be sweet to snap shots to the phone for easy posting to the various places Android supports.
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Kcarpenter said:
My guess would be that Dalvik (SDK level Code) doesn't have access to hardware level controls.
So this would have to have some Native (NDK Code) in c++ written to make it work. I don't think it would be entirely difficult for someone, but I personally have never tried to use an audio jack for anything other than..well...audio.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, that was kinda what I was afraid of. I have really bitten off more than I can chew with this project.
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
USB is the way to go. I've written a few apps for windows that control canon cameras using the canon sdk. Unfortunately, the SDK is all C++, so a wrapper is needed to work with java. Plus there are functions that are windows specific. The other option for Linux is libgphoto2. Unfortunately, documentation is not the greatest (nor is it for csdk).
If I had more time, I would have coded this already. But all my coding time is spent programming for work.
centran said:
How I understand the wired remote works is that it just "shorts" the connection.
Now you may be able to simulate that by sending tones through the left/right and/or both poles. (one focuses the other shoots)
You could probably test if this would work by playing music through the cable and see if the camera reacts. I don't have a 1/8th to 1/16th cable or else I would try it myself because I am interested if it would work.
Here is a link of how to make a remote switch which you might find handy if you pursue this.
http://martybugs.net/photography/remote.cgi
Someone mentioned using the usb which would open a whole new world of what you can do. If you have ever played around with the canon software then you know you can control all the camera features from a computer and that should be possible to do on our phones but it would be a lot of work to write an app like that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am going to test your audio idea and see if it shorts the connection. Yeah, I wish I even knew where to begin with working on the USB. I am very new to this. The farthest I have gotten is building a potential layout for the program.
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
centran said:
I just looked up some stuff.
I think the canon remote needs a little over 3volts to trigger the shutter. You are not going to be able to get anywhere close to that with the audio output.
I think the only option is to go through the usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you for the info. I am downloading the Canon SDK right now(not that I have any idea what to do with it at this point).
is this still going? we are about to make the gsm hero usb-host-mode-able, then all that is missing is libgphoto2 and gphoto2... anyone fancy porting it?
First of all, sorry for my English.
I was searching in Google for something like this and I can't find nothing.
Using the usb is not simple, but the audio option is not crazy at all.
Obviously, that option will require some kind of interface, but can be much simple than the USB option.
You can generate different audio frequencies, for example, 1 KHz for focus and 5 KHz for shutter. With a filter for each frequency you can separate the signal in two circuits. Each circuit can trigger the camera with a transistor, in open collector configuration.
Whatever, if you choose one or another (USB or audio) you will must make some kind of electronic interface.
If someone can works with the software, I can do my part with the circuit. I'm sure that will be easy to build for anyone, even if you don't know electronics.
I am also looking into doing this sort of app, but I am starting with a Pentax k110d... Some camera's only require you to short out the wires, and doing so with the audio headphone jack seems to be possible, from the quick little test I just did with a media player, a 3.5mm jack extension cord, and a multimeter. When the track was playing, i got some resistance across the poles, but when I stopped it, I got nothing registering.
I had actually just given up on the headphone jack, and was looking into doing it over USB as well. I might just have to do several code paths, depending on what kind of camera the person is hooking up /ponder
Alrighty, I just did some more testing with a quick framework app that I had been working on for this. There is apparently a constant 1.7 mV on the headphone jack, which is enough to trigger the shutter release on my camera... boo urns... and when the tone is played, the voltage actually drops, because as all learned ppl know(at least those who paid some attention in physics) is that according to Ohms law, Resistance goes up, Voltage goes down.
Any progress on this?
I would love an intervalometer on Android for my Canon EOS 550D
+1 for the development of such app & hardware it may need.
i hate to bust your bubble but this died over a year ago
ya, development has kinda stalled out... I realized that it is not possible to do over the headphone jack, as there is always voltage there, and I don't know if it is possible just over usb...
The only way I can think that this would be possible would be to get ahold of a google hardware kit/arduino dev kit, and then program that.
Just bought a used 2007 Toyota Solara SLE convertible (with JBL 7 speaker system), and looking to replace stereo. I've read up on here and elsewhere about some of this, but still have some Q's before moving forward.
Main needs:
Spotify (strongly prefer NOT to use bluetooth due to audio compression)
GPS (The larger the screen, the better for this)
Theft-resistant (Either looks not worth stealing, has removable face without wearing out connectors, is built-in and looks hard to steal, etc)
I'll drill down on the details in a bit, but I'd like a little perspective first on reasons why it would matter if I go with a dedicated head unit, or possibly get the fiddly bits and hook them up myself to do something like a slide-mounted Samsung tablet that I can easily pop in and out.
1) Is there some reason in general why one path is better than the other?
2) If I go DIY route, I've been reading up that Android Auto is not available for tablets without data (wifi only versions). Can't tell if that info is outdated, or still true. I see a few mentions of 3rd party workarounds, but not much info on how they are working.
3) I'd really prefer a larger readout as I use GPS heavily on a regular basis. The detachable ones I see for 10.1 screens from Joying, etc look to have connectors NOT designed for daily plug/unplug. Do these hold up?
4) Is it better for theftproofing to have a removable face, or something smaller that fits in the double din and looks harder to steal?
5) If I do the DIY route, does the audio come out of the tablet via usb and need a d/a, or out of the phones jack?
5) There seems to be info out there for DIY to get the steering controls working, car info like tire pressure, temp, etc. If I then already have the amp, and can work out the audio, and get info to and from via bluetooth with my phone or using my phone as hotspot, that's all bases covered, right? Is there anything I'm missing that CAN'T be done this way and would be better off just getting head unit?
6) Are the dedicated head units less updatable or anything like that than something like a samsung tablet?
7) Is there an issue with my 7 speaker system? Haven't checked, but I'm under the impression from some conversations I've had that there's a 7 speaker dedicated amp currently in place (not part of existing head unit). I read something about certain versions of AA not supporting subs. Not sure what that means. If I'm replacing head unit with full DIY rig, can't I just sent audio to the amp, and it splits from there, or does processing and separate out for sub need to somehow happen prior to the amp?
FYI: Asking in part because I'm thinking about getting a tablet anyway, and might as well have dual use if possible. Also, I'm considering idea also of leaving the stock stereo as is (has BT for voice, but not audio streaming), and rigging a detachable dock for tablet that then feeds audio via the aux input. I guess if I go this third route, I'd store music on it locally, and use it's wifi with my android phone as mobile hotspot to get new tracks, access map data, etc.
Thoughts on why one path is better?
Too many q's?
Available info in another thread? (I've searched and read all I could find)
Better in another subforum? (Connected car maybe?)
Thank you for the questions it is helping me do more research.
If any one can answer part of a question please chime in.
1. Android tablets (Samsung, LG) over Chinese (KLYDE, Joying, etc) units:
- better screen - even an old Galaxy Tab3 has a screen 10x better than any chinese in-car unit.
- cleaner Android implementations - chinese units suffer from poor system implementation that generates lots o0f issues with Bluetooth audio quality, OBDII pairing, WiFi and 3G/4G compatibility
- software upgradable - again, my Samsung Galaxy Tab3 from 2013 runs Nougat. My Klyde in-car unit runs Lollipop
- better RAM, usually
- more flexible in implementation
Chinese (KLYDE, Joying, etc) units over Android tablets (Samsung, LG):
-easier to install
-FM radio
-some level of integration with the car's systems
2. Since version 2.1 Android Auto is a standalone app so it will run on WiFi only units
3. No idea. But if I were to take the DIY road, instead of removing the tablet I'd have a fake panel to cover the screen, with the front part of a cheap stereo.
4. It depends on your preferences. Audio will be much better if run through an external d/a converter but you can start with getting the signal from the headphone jack and add a converter later.
Probably 2 main differences:
Android tablet wont have good amplifier. Not so good sound, you must install many apps from yourself (this is good and bad), no radio probably or bad radio. You must also connect an antenna for the radio if the tablet has one.
You must also do some modding by yourself, connection for power etc. Probably use tasker for some things, search in youtube and other places for suitable script. Xposed, app settings will help for making many apps more car like.
Search for car launcher etc.
I am writing this as i have installed in past, not tablet but mobile phone (an old galaxy s2) in a Fiat punto. So i have done those im Writting for.
If you give time and efford at the end it could be better the result compaired with a dedicated one.
The dedicated one has the benefit of don't search at all. Just install, plug and play. Probably better sound.
If it has android, you can make many things with this. Probably most as the tablet i wrote before.
If it only has android auto you can do only basic things..
Sent from my SM-G9350 using XDA-Developers Legacy app
Ok, I had both approaches with 2 different chinese units and one Zenpad.
- 1st Chinese unit, piece of .... so I almost smashed it with a hammer in a fury rage, so got it sold after 3 month, conclusion stay away from XTRONS!
-2nd I had a Zenpad built into my dash, lucky enough for me my dash was big enough to easily fit in an 8" tablet. I bought a mechless Sony car radio, which is much smaller than a normal unit and I hid it behind the tablet, steering wheel remote control still worked, so I could control the radio from the steering wheel, but never needed anything else than adjusting the volume. I did not use FM radio at all. See attached picture. This has a few potential problems, most probably you won't be able to charge the device & use the usb port at the same time, you will need a custom kernel for that or a USB-C tablet. Also its much more difficult to fit it in properly, when the system freeze or crash and you need to hard reset it, it can be painful, however overall I was very pleased with my setup. Since you cannot use the tablet for the bluetooth hands free I still needed to use a Himbox HB001. TIP: The install was done with the help of a 6mm acrylic sheet, which I cut to size using a jigsaw.
-3rd changed the car and couldn't do the same thing in the new car so I bit the bullet and bought another chinese unit, this time I went to an Intel based one. So far so good, I have only done about 1000 miles with it but it looks to work OK, boot up is really quick, bluetooth A2DP quality is good (not like the crap XTRONS), handsfree quality seems decent, but I need more feedback from others on this, I hear them clearly the question is how good they can hear me, so I can recommend the unit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/301955449854
And now to the Android Auto question, they run on all of them, just use my app: https://forum.xda-developers.com/ge...ndroid-4-1-headunit-reloaded-android-t3432348