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I have recently purchased the original Samsung car holder.
After my tab reaches the 100% full charge, it beeps and advise me to disconnect.
If I don't do it, the tab itself begins to overheat after some minutes.
It oveheats really hi ! On the right side of the tab.
It seems like the car charger is not able to stop charging, differently from the house 220V charger.
Have you experienced something like me with your car charger ?
I have been using the car dock, sinds the beginning. Cannot say that i have noticed any excess heat. Note: i have used a brodit clip to install it on the air vent. Nicely in front of me without blocking line of sight.
All the phones i had "overheated" when connected in a car dock, having a forced air flow over it quickly eradicates this problem!
I use my tab in my car using the usb cable and a generic usb 12v adapter and it doesnt overheat, even when using the tab heavily (screen full bright, Torque app, and Pandora).
Sent from my GB Galaxy Tab using Tapatalk.
Ok, thanks for all your answers.
Could I ask you all, if you use bluetooth in your car?
I use bluetooth ON to stream music from SGT into my car stereo.
I mean it could be an overheat problem caused by the bluetooth antenna, isn't it ?
Bruno
I never use bluetooth.
Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk
I have bought the original dock nearly one year agoand it overheated only one time (car standing in the sun). I use my tab with Bluetooth and wifi activated.
New experiment:
I have put it in the car dock, no wifi, no bluetooth. Only 3G + Google Navigator were ON.
It reaches 100% and after become very hot (in the right side)!
Now I need to try again with display off, and 3G off; only power charge.
And finally I will understand (as I suspect) there is something it's not ok in my car dock (I remember you that with my original home plug cord all is ok !)
Brunino
Adding to my post earlier, and answering your question, my audio is through bluetooth while I am running those apps.
It's even two bluetooth connections... Pandora and Torque at the same time.
brunino1967 said:
New experiment:
I have put it in the car dock, no wifi, no bluetooth. Only 3G + Google Navigator were ON.
It reaches 100% and after become very hot (in the right side)!
Now I need to try again with display off, and 3G off; only power charge.
And finally I will understand (as I suspect) there is something it's not ok in my car dock (I remember you that with my original home plug cord all is ok !)
Brunino
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yeah, i think you're right. Without being an expert: Sounds to me, like it doesn't deactivate after the battery has reached 100%. As I understand.d you, it becomes hot after it is loaded to full capacity, right?
You should try to exclude all functions, that may be the source of this malfunction. Put it into flight mode and just try loading the tab. Then start activating single functions like wifi etc. After that, you can try combinated function.s like Bluetooth and wifi.
I have built a Nexus 7 into my car and I have a small issue.
I need a tasker profile:
When I turn the car on, the screen turns on and music plays.
When i turn the car off, the music stops and the screen turns off. (along with other stuff)
I have created a "test" version of all this so when I connect a power cable (i.e when charging) it turns the screen on and plays music.
When I disconnect the USB (i.e. stops charging) the screen goes off, music stops, bluetooth off etc and all this works fine.
However, the USB will always be connected with power coming through so I cannot use this option. I need another way to detect if the car is on and when it turns off so I can run the correct tasks.
One option i thought of is buy a wireless charger and build it into the car. When my phone is placed on the charger, send a text message to the tablet to turn it on, and when i turn the car off the charging will stop, then the phone will send a text to the tablet to turn the screen off etc.
However after purchasing the wireless charger, i realised everytime i get a call or take my phone of the charger for whatever reason, the screen will go off and music will stop, so this isnt an option either.
So the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Hope that makes sense
idi_idi said:
ISo the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do realize that you really have two problems, right? The Nexus 7 will not know when the car is started, or stopped. Unless you can disconnect the power, manually etc.. If you can do that, you can send a command in fastboot to force the N7 to power up when power is connected, otherwise you'd have to boot it up manually.
You could unplug the USB charger.. Or have the tablet turn off after N hours of inactivity, although how do you detect "new" activity if there's no change when the car is started.
If your car has bluetooth, you could detect that as the "turn off" task perhaps, but turning on is probably your bigger issue.
Will the wireless charger idea work?
idi_idi said:
Will the wireless charger idea work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea what you mean by wireless charger (2012 model has no wireless charging), or how you'd control it with the phone. And unless your tablet is a 3g one, I don't know how you'd directly communicate with it either.
I just put my phone back to stock so I had to uninstall Tasker, however your tablet does not pull power once the car is off correct? I had a power based one as well, I remember testing it with a surge protector. I could leave the USB connected but flip the surge protector on and off (to mimic power to the phone being halted). To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
elpeterson said:
To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.
khaytsus said:
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
elpeterson said:
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose that could work.. Find out the speed for several periods in a row, if it's zero, assume it's time to shut down. But that'd mean it's playing music etc during that period etc.
IMO bluetooth, or a plug he can turn off, is really the only way if his USB is powered up all of the time.
Also remember, he has no way to know when to power UP either. I still maintain that's the bigger problem, especially if it's a fixed install and he can't poke the power button
At the moment, its connected so when the car turns on, the USB is powered up and when the car turns off, the power in the USB stops. So at the moment, my tasker profile works on "when charging" do Task A, when not charging do Task B. And it all works fine at the moment.
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days) so i planned to keep it always charging, so the power in the USB will always be there regardless of if the car is on or off. So i cant use the "when charging" on tasker anymore. So i needed a new way to it to figure out when i got in the car.
Here are my ideas:
1. Have a wireless charger in my car for my phone. (Not the tablet). When i get in the car, i could put my phone on the charger, have the phone send a text to the tablet to turn it on. When i remove the phone from the charger, send a text to the tablet to turn it off. Simples
2. Connect a wifi router in the boot or something and have it start up only when the car starts, and turn off with the car. It doesn't have to be connected to the internet, it just needs to power up. Then i can do a 'When wifi near' on tasker to see if the car is off or on, and turn the screen off accordingly.
3. Connect the tablet to my phones bluetooth. Whenever i get in the car, they will connect and the tablet will power on. when i leave the car, it will power off. (Not the best option since it will stay on even if i am near the car)
4. Similar to option 1, but have a nfc sticker in the car. when i swipe my phone on it, it communicates with the tablet and turns it on, n then off when required. but i dont want to do this since i know i am going to forget to turn it off one day.
I don't really want to do the speed option, since i want it to turn on as soon as i enter the car, not when i start driving, and i want to be able to park up and use it when i need to put an addess in the sat nav etc.
idi_idi said:
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.
idi_idi said:
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I thought you had the tablet turning off when the car went off. If I were you, I'd set up a profile that turns off the tablet if it hasn't had power in a few hours, pretty simple to do. On Power, set a time var, every so often check that time var to see if it exceeds your threshold, and power down if so.
If you don't have much installed, it should be a fairly quick power-up, especially the plug goes hot when you start the car.
BTW I hope you're considering cold and heat if you're leaving the tablet in the car. Leaving it in the heat all summer will will the battery.
You can use Timur's kernel, it senses power to turn N7 on or deep sleep it.
Also charges N7 while using OTG.
It;s designed for car install.
khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, you need to get at least a 2A charger for your car. My wife would watch Netflix on long drives and my car USB port or the normal USB charger I got for the cigarette lighter worked until I up'd it to a 2A charger. I can have screen on for hours while streaming video and still fully charge the tablet in a reasonable amount of time.
There's millions of these devices around. If not laying in a draw or closet, they're on craigslist or ebay half of a N7'13, (2013 model should be considered if purchasing).
Share and discuss your setup, apps, and experiences here.
ROMs:
Timur's USBRom: Android 4.2 Jellybean. No longer developed.
http://www.adrive.com/public/hMdX4p/cm-10.1-20130817-USBROM-grouper.zip
Gapps: http://www.adrive.com/public/rj748P/gapps-jb-20130812-signed.zip
AutoDroid: Android 4.4.4 Kit Kat. No longer developed.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2789993
*May have a problem booting after install. Flash a below kernel to fix.
Kernels:
Kangeroo: For Kit Kat ROMs. Inactive(?) since Jan 2014.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=2558717
Oxydo: For Lollipop ROMs.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-7/development/oxydo-revamped-kernel-nexus-7-2012-t2978950
Apps:
Headunit: Android Auto head unit app.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/gen...nit-android-auto-t3125252/page69#post62485618
Power Event Manager 1.8: Changes power settings for above kernels allowing tablet to sleep/wake with external power.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showpost.php?p=62287264&postcount=145
App Ops: Or any permission manager you like.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.findsdk.apppermission
Autosleeper Auto power ON-OFF: I haven't tried this but functionality seems somewhat equivalent to PEM above.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.as.powerchecker
Wakelock Detector [Root]: Use with App Ops to stop apps keeping the tablet awake.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.uzumapps.wakelockdetector&hl=en
Trigger: Tasker-like app for automation. Simple set-up..
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.jwsoft.nfcactionlauncher
Tasker: Powerful automation app but incredibly user unfriendly.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.dinglisch.android.taskerm
[*]Secure Settings: Allows Tasker to perform even more powerful automation.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.intangibleobject.securesettings.plugin
[*]Power Event Manager Helper: Helps PEM kill a few stubborn apps then put the tablet in lp0.
Attached in 2nd post.
Hardware:
OTG Cable: Don't cheap out here, charging for the tablet and phone must go through the wires.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UJ5D5ZS?psc=1
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSBVNCM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Ground Loop Isolator: Filters alternator, and charging whine. Doesn't degrade music quality.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NSBVNCM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Digital Audio Convertor: Can be found locally at music stores. Fantastically excellent sound!!
http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/UCA202.aspx
Others/Tips/etc:
Put the tablet in bootloader and type this command into CMD/terminal.
This makes the tablet to boot when external power is turned on without physically pressing the button, even if the battery has completely discharged.
Code:
fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0
If using a Lollipop ROM and experiencing the NlpCollectorWakeLock here's a fix, you must be rooted:
Remove com.google.android.gms with titanium backup (or another utility),
Download the latest "230" version of Google Play Services from apkmirror.com,
Install,
Reboot.
Smooth Scroll Mod: Possible created a random reboot on the order of once 3 or 4 days.
It goes without saying, maybe, but do not install 3rd party widgets. Beautiful Widgets for example will cause thousnads of different wakelocks though a night. -inadvertently tested.
Attached is my V2 blocked list for Debloater. It removes more apps, but leaves a few others for better stability.
V2 now removes Connectivity Services and Play Services. I recommend using on a clean install immediately going into airplane mode so no apps will start auto-updating.
With Play Services being removed by the app you will need to install with adb if no file manager is installed beforehand.
Created a Tasker app that helps Power Event Manager. Secure Settings and Power Event Manger is needed.
If PEM doesn't shut down in 7 seconds, The app closes some problem apps, hope you used the debloat list, and calls PEM to sleep the tablet. Upon wake up app then disables airplane mode.
My current setup [Edited 09/18]:
Stock lollipop, from factory image, rooted, with Oxydo-Revamp kernel.
All apps not suitable for stand-alone tablet use have been removed. Debloat list is above in post #2.
Power Event Manager installed as system app.
Es File Explorer for file management, and ftp file transfer.
$3.50 OTG cable from Amazon. Charging seems severely hampered. Tablet and phone both occasionally discharge.
OTG is now handled by the 2nd cable listed in the OP with Amazon Basic USB extensions. Charging problems fixed.
Cheap USB 2.0 hub with independent power. Simple and impressive mod.
Torque Pro with a ELM327.
Tasker. To kill apps and use Power Event Manager to put the tablet to sleep.
Now using my Power Event Manager Helper app.
Behringer UCA202 to stock stereo AUX input: This is an incredible mod. Highly recommend over bluetooth.
Notes:
Torque can keep the phone awake if configured improperly.
Leaving ES File Explorer in FTP mode will also cause a partial wakelock.
Google Play Services, and Google App are causing wakeup triggers every 2-3 minutes.
Power Event Manager combined with Oxydo kernel is putting the tablet to sleep reliably.
Power Event Manager isn't terribly reliable. The Tasker profile is set to kill apps and call PEM for when PEM alone fails.
My awake time with stripped system and Tasker is consistently 0% over 24 hours. Longer periods show Tasker awake for 2s!
Settings:
I use Synapse and UKM TricksterMod for kernel management. Since battery life isn't a primary concern, my settings are to maximize the tablet's performance.
Turning the Nexus7 into a "terminal" is about the only hope it has to run Lollipop.
Tablet can run music, maps, and youtube flawlessly. Chrome appears to be the biggest problem app.
CPU Minimum frequency is set a 640MHZ 340MHZ,
Maximum 1624MHZ 1500MHZ,
Ondemand Governor.
Splitting the power to use two chargers is super simple when you figure it out.
Open the hub,
Remove the red wire from the PCB, and tape it off.
Connect a salvaged USB cable's red wire to the where the previous was,
Connect the new black wire to the PCB with the existing black wire.
Green and white wires on new cable are not used.
Whoa, mine if using stock lollipop is barely usable (too slow especially when multitask). Then I installed tiimut'r usbrom it's a lot bettrr (but then I needed the inmersive mode).
Current setup is slimrom (slimkat 4.4.4), all converted to all-f2fs. I dont need usb host stuff (yet), so far i'm satisfied with it. Use macrodroid for auto on/off stuff, automate as launcher, google maps for navigation, spotify/poweramp for music, and dash command for obd2 stuff.
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
tesna said:
Whoa, mine if using stock lollipop is barely usable (too slow especially when multitask). Then I installed tiimut'r usbrom it's a lot bettrr (but then I needed the inmersive mode).
Current setup is slimrom (slimkat 4.4.4), all converted to all-f2fs. I dont need usb host stuff (yet), so far i'm satisfied with it. Use macrodroid for auto on/off stuff, automate as launcher, google maps for navigation, spotify/poweramp for music, and dash command for obd2 stuff.
Sent from my LG-D802 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ran into the multitasking bit while setting up , everything last night.
With Torque and Headunit, running as it would in the car it's perfectly usable.
Open chrome, settings, es file explorer, and Ampere and it falls apart. Chrome is the biggest problem though.
How does Dash Command run for you? I've tried it, and seen many, that say the refresh rate is slow.
fr4nk1yn said:
I ran into the multitasking bit while setting up , everything last night.
With Torque and Headunit, running as it would in the car it's perfectly usable.
Open chrome, settings, es file explorer, and Ampere and it falls apart. Chrome is the biggest problem though.
How does Dash Command run for you? I've tried it, and seen many, that say the refresh rate is slow.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I had issues even opening up Google maps while in lollipop, soooo sllooooow. I only able to open maps, or music, or OBD stuff, cannot run them together. Now on kitkat I can run at least 2 apps simultaneously without any issues (like maps and music, or music and OBDII stuff). I did get issues when running three apps (music, maps, and obdII stuff). As for dashcommand, the refresh rates is quite ok for me. I like dashcommand morecompared to torque since it has nicer layout/themes out of the box. It's like having GTR multi information display that looks very factory.
I have another irritating issues though. If the nexus7 battery nearly full (above 90%) and charging. I hear a lot of strange noises, even when the engine is off. I touch the screen, doing any activities creates a lot of noises. if I disconnect the charger the noises are gone! and if the battery was like at 50% and charging no funny noises either. I was wondering how do I fix this.....
My setup is using the aux output of the nexus 7 to aux input of the factory bose head unit. Tried to use bluetooth to aux adapter but I did not like the sound quality (too many hissing noise) and also introduces alternator whine
Should I get the USB DAC thing?
tesna said:
I had issues even opening up Google maps while in lollipop, soooo sllooooow. I only able to open maps, or music, or OBD stuff, cannot run them together. Now on kitkat I can run at least 2 apps simultaneously without any issues (like maps and music, or music and OBDII stuff). I did get issues when running three apps (music, maps, and obdII stuff). As for dashcommand, the refresh rates is quite ok for me. I like dashcommand morecompared to torque since it has nicer layout/themes out of the box. It's like having GTR multi information display that looks very factory.
I have another irritating issues though. If the nexus7 battery nearly full (above 90%) and charging. I hear a lot of strange noises, even when the engine is off. I touch the screen, doing any activities creates a lot of noises. if I disconnect the charger the noises are gone! and if the battery was like at 50% and charging no funny noises either. I was wondering how do I fix this.....
My setup is using the aux output of the nexus 7 to aux input of the factory bose head unit. Tried to use bluetooth to aux adapter but I did not like the sound quality (too many hissing noise) and also introduces alternator whine
Should I get the USB DAC thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm sure lollipop is working so well because of everything I stripped out of it. I'm about to strip some more. Was working on gauges for torque. I'll give Dash Command another try though. It does look much better.
I'm still getting my cables added to my cart but you need one of these for noise:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5...=1440642269&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+ground+loop
Are you using a stripped down stock ROM or you manually disabled everything?
fr4nk1yn said:
I'm sure lollipop is working so well because of everything I stripped out of it. I'm about to strip some more. Was working on gauges for torque. I'll give Dash Command another try though. It does look much better.
I'm still getting my cables added to my cart but you need one of these for noise:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5...=1440642269&sr=8-1&keywords=3.5mm+ground+loop
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought one of these.. (not exactly that brand), on mine one of the channels is not working so I only got one side audio channel only It also degrades the sound quality I think. I guess I need to bought the better one.
EDIT: What if I buy the ground loop isolator intended for 12volt line like this one? Install it on 12v cigarette lighter (before 12v to 5v dc-dc adapter). If this one works the audio quality will not changed as the ground is lifted on the 12v line.
gabrielbsb said:
Are you using a stripped down stock ROM or you manually disabled everything?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes, A manually stripped/blocked stock ROM.
tesna said:
I just bought one of these.. (not exactly that brand), on mine one of the channels is not working so I only got one side audio channel only It also degrades the sound quality I think. I guess I need to bought the better one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hopefully the one I ordered works. It has a decibal increase to make up for that degradation from the transformers.
fr4nk1yn said:
Hopefully the one I ordered works. It has a decibal increase to make up for that degradation from the transformers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I ended up ordering one of these . Let's see how it goes few days from now when the package arrives (and time to install it)
Counting on PEM to sleep the tablet might not be the best idea. It only seems to actually do it IF the tablet is charging in OTG mode.
Tablet went dead in the car during a test possibly because the OTG cable, or another cable, is malfunctioning.
Might have to go Tasker although I've never gotten it to work properly for anything, and I've never accepted it won't demolish battery polling every few seconds.
Damn. Whatever happened to my tablet it appears to be dead. Won't power on, won't reboot. May be a short lived experiment.
I've ordered hundred of dollars worth of parts for the car so If it doesn't charge by Wednesday i'll have to buy a N7'13 off CL.
fr4nk1yn said:
Counting on PEM to sleep the tablet might not be the best idea. It only seems to actually do it IF the tablet is charging in OTG mode.
Tablet went dead in the car during a test possibly because the OTG cable, or another cable, is malfunctioning.
Might have to go Tasker although I've never gotten it to work properly for anything, and I've never accepted it won't demolish battery polling every few seconds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I use Macrodroid to manage sleep/wake up on mine. Very simple app and easy to understand.
fr4nk1yn said:
Damn. Whatever happened to my tablet it appears to be dead. Won't power on, won't reboot. May be a short lived experiment.
I've ordered hundred of dollars worth of parts for the car so If it doesn't charge by Wednesday i'll have to buy a N7'13 off CL.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's too bad maybe try to plug in to your pc and recognize adb or fastboot or something?
tesna said:
I use Macrodroid to manage sleep/wake up on mine. Very simple app and easy to understand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I going to try it out. I'm quite used to Trigger, I haven't used it in awhile though and not for this type of power control.
tesna said:
That's too bad maybe try to plug in to your pc and recognize adb or fastboot or something?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Took it apart after not charging at all. Checked battery voltage, then voltage at the microUSB, tried powering it on, yet again, and it did. I did nothing different, same cable and charger. Wiggling and poking the socket it doesn't appear to have a loose connection.
My new OTG cable is on the proverbial slow boat so I can't eliminate that until early October!
tesna said:
I use Macrodroid to manage sleep/wake up on mine. Very simple app and easy to understand.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Care to give your macros for power? It's time to try other methods of forcing the tablet to sleep.
Tasker, as usual, is impossible.
fr4nk1yn said:
Care to give your macros for power? It's time to try other methods of forcing the tablet to sleep.
Tasker, as usual, is impossible.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My macro is pretty simple, I just set on charger connect, screen on, run app A,B,C Then another macro on charger disconnect, screen off, close app ABC (killing navigation apps, music, OBD stuff). You can apply also turn on/off airplane mode, turn/off mobile data, wifi AP, etc but I decided to keep them on even when not charging to track the location of my car in case my car got stolen lol. Another macro that I occasionally use is, turning off the tablet when the charger is disconnected (key ACC off). No need another macro since the tablet will auto power on when charger is connected (key ACC on).
Before macrodroid I was using condi, and it was not always working.
@tesna Thanks. While playing with Tasker I found it doesn't actually cause deep sleep, just shuts down radios.
We really need a kernel with some of the newer improvements. And firm sleep.
Since my car isn't a daily driver and only goes out for relatively short trips the tablet will eventually go completely dead.
@fr4nkl1yn, there's simpler solution to that problem. Just set in tasker/macrodroid to turn off the tablet once the ignition key is on the off position (charger disconnected). Bam no battery drain issue...
tesna said:
@fr4nkl1yn, there's simpler solution to that problem. Just set in tasker/macrodroid to turn off the tablet once the ignition key is on the off position (charger disconnected). Bam no battery drain issue...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah, I'm going to have to do it. close apps and set airplane mode with screen off at power, and a timer to shut down after a few hours. Off_charge_mode will take care of the rest with screen, radios on at power on.
Having an add issue. the tablet is powering the charger, and the key circuit of the car, through the otg cable.
Further research shows its functioning just as it's supposed too. This is also the cause of the issues I was contributing to pem.
When the power is shut off while a otg device is connected, or the tablet thinks is connected, it doesn't sleep and powers the otg device, my charger, from the tablet. At that point it doesn't recognize any change in external power until its physically unplugged and reconnected.
Source, timur: http://mehrvarz.github.io/usb-host-mode-power-management-nexus7/
This leads me to believe pem isn't switching the fixed install trigger, or oxydo-revamp has a bug.
How to avoid "reboot" on "ignition" and "sleep" on turning off the car
I have a 6,95inch autopumpkin carkit with Malyask Firmware and it actually runs just perfect.
Except for 2 things that are really annoying:
when the autoradio is already switched on but the car engine not running and I switch the start key to start the engine I get a short:"shutting down/reboot" on my carkit device and it takes a while for it's back online with all the background programs running. It shouldn't reboot/shutdown.
Maybe some wire I connected wrong? How can I avoid this? that's my first issue.
The 2nd is even more important. I use the device to keep a log on my tracks using mycartracks. And it works just fine. However, each time I get at the place of destination I have to leave the unit switched on for a while (30seconds no movement) for the mycartracks to understand my current track has to be stopped and next time a new track has to be recorded.
Sometimes I'm in a hurry, I forget to wait. If that happens in the evening when returning home, next day when I start the car the unit thinks I'm still driving my track of the previous day so instead of recording a new track, its continuing the track of the previous day. So the log and statistics aren't accurate and I manually have to fix the tracks with a manually edited GPX data file which is A LOT of work!
To avoid this, when I switch off the unit, it should simply keep running in the background for a few minutes. Black screen but not shutting down altogether.
Now from what I can see, the unit however doesn't go completely offline! Because I can set it to 30 minutes or 1 hour or 2 hours in "sleep" when turning off the car and that actually does work. Because when I start the car within that time, it doesn't start from scratch but simply lights up the display and everything is already booted. So there is power in the background keeping the unit in this "sleep" modus. So there must be some internal power supply or still using the car battery for this modus? But how can I use that, to avoid the unit to go into sleep immediately after the car is turned off?
So what I want:
when I shut off the car, the unit keep running at least a few more minutes before auto sleep/shutdown
when I start the car, don't reboot/shutdown but simply keep running.
Any ideas here how to accomplish that?
Thank you all for your advise on forehand.
I know I can add an additional battery in the car behind the unit to give the unit some more power for 10 or 20 minutes and I also can design the electrical wiring to make sure the power is going to the unit and not backwards to the car battery. That's not the issue. The issue is, I think the unit has already a permanent power supply from the car battery and I simply want to wire it, that it doesn't go to sleep/shutdown instantly and doesn't reboot/shutdown upon starting the car. That must be possible without installing additional power supply.
So I hope someone has an idea how to wire it properly without me testing how to do that.
I'm curious about how much power it is using while it is in sleep, because if it is not that much I would prefer to hardly ever let it cold boot.
Ultima_Thule01 said:
I'm curious about how much power it is using while it is in sleep, because if it is not that much I would prefer to hardly ever let it cold boot.
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You mean as in: " connect the red wire to the permanent +12V line?"
I could put an Ampere-meter between tomorrow and have a reading. Since I replaced the battery in the car, original 48Ah at 12V, with a 64Ah at 12V,
that gives me addition 16Ah.
Or, if in sleep it uses 0,5Ampere I can keep it running for 32 hours without getting below the original battery energy supply.
Or if in sleep it uses 0,2Ampere I can keep it running 80 hours without touching the original 48Ah.
But I'm sure it'll be lower than 0,1 ampere because even with the 1 hour delayed shutdown after ACC switched off, after just 10 minutes the unit is pretty cold again.
So I'm sure it draws very few Ampere in sleep modus.
But point is, in sleep all background programs don't run anymore and thus the track recording isn't working either and thus doesn't recognize that the track recording should
be stopped as the car isn't moving anymore.
duiveldoder said:
when the autoradio is already switched on but the car engine not running and I switch the start key to start the engine I get a short:"shutting down/reboot" on my carkit device and it takes a while for it's back online with all the background programs running. It shouldn't reboot/shutdown.
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Not sure it's a wiring issue; mine does that too. Pretty sure it's because the car is designed to cut power to things when the ignition is first turning so all the battery's power can go to the starter and not get wasted on things like headlights.
Or, we both have it wired incorrectly; I'm certainly no expert.
---------- Post added at 03:43 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------
As for MyCarTracks;
I assume it's a similar issue. My dashcam constantly records 1-minute videos and pieces them together. When I take the unit out (and it loses power) the most recent file is lost because the unit was powered off before it was saved.
Perhaps both issues can be remedied by running a fused line directly to the battery (thus bypassing the the part that cuts all power when the car turns off). I'm assuming you've already adjusted the setting to try to get the head unit to sleep for two hours upon being turned off instead of instantly turning off.
NYCAR said:
Not sure it's a wiring issue; mine does that too. Pretty sure it's because the car is designed to cut power to things when the ignition is first turning so all the battery's power can go to the starter and not get wasted on things like headlights.
Or, we both have it wired incorrectly; I'm certainly no expert..
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As engineer I can assure you everything is wired correctly and you're right the design of a car is that most of the power goes to start the engine. But it's not like you make it sound like there's a switch that cuts off power to other parts of the car.
The theory behind it is very simple: The inner resistor of the car engine is simply much lower than the other devices. So all the current goes through there and not enough current through headlights and car stereo.
it's like this: you have a flow of 100 liters of water per second. 1 watermill needs 20 l/s and another 20l/s and few others each 10l/s now you split the water stream in 2 parts. 1 part is 10cm deep and 10cm wide and the other part is 10cm deep and 90cm wide (that's the car engine)
of course for all the other users there isn't enough water anymore.. used to be initially, but now not anymore. So I don't really cut them off, it's just most of the water goes through the 90x10 canal.
If I close that canal of 90x10, I still have my 10x10 left, but now there's again 100l/s so it just flows faster (higher voltage) (which is 12Volt as the battery doesn't get higher) which means logically while you still have 12volts on your car engine starter, the voltage of the rest drops
along with the current(ampere)
so you don't have anything in your car that switches off or cuts the current/voltage of headlights, radio, etc. It's just you're opening with the car engine a wide canal that allows massive ampere and all the 12volt on it, so not much left for the other users.
To avoid this, I could install a 2nd 12 volt battery behind the car radio, with a 1-way diode and a small 50Watt 0,3Ohm to prevent a shortcut parallel with the car battery so it's loaded together with the car battery but when starting the car engine there's no voltage drop behind it to the car radio
nor is there any current flowing backwards. that would work. But obviously INSIDE the radio there's a condensator or internal battery strong enough to keep the unit in sleep mode for at least 1 hour and that should be sufficient to instead of sleeping 1 hour keep it running for a few minutes.
That's a firmware question. Since there are firmware guys here online, malyask i.e. one of them might be able to reprogram the firmware so I don't need to install additional equipment.
NYCAR said:
As for MyCarTracks;
I assume it's a similar issue. My dashcam constantly records 1-minute videos and pieces them together. When I take the unit out (and it loses power) the most recent file is lost because the unit was powered off before it was saved.
Perhaps both issues can be remedied by running a fused line directly to the battery (thus bypassing the the part that cuts all power when the car turns off). I'm assuming you've already adjusted the setting to try to get the head unit to sleep for two hours upon being turned off instead of instantly turning off.
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yes tried that. but "sleeping" before shutdown is really shutting down all background software including Wireless so that's no help. Also when having an additional power unit that could maintain the unit to keep running for at least 1 hour, taking out the car keys would still
put the unit into sleep
It's really the firmware that needs to be changed a bit.
What about a 330uF capacitor on the ACC+, behind a diode? I did that the first day after I've installed my HU, never regretted.
sorinakis said:
What about a 330uF capacitor on the ACC+, behind a diode? I did that the first day after I've installed my HU, never regretted.
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330microfarad? That's enough? Wow! Never expected that few energy would be sufficient.
Can you state the precise brand, model, of the capacitor? of if you can't remeber anymore, what type: i.e. 14 Volts, 330uF, and Elektrolyt, Frolyt, etc?
btw, if I switch off the car and thus 0V on the acc+, how long the unit still has before shutting off?
I mean, I really need it to keep going for at least 1 minute that's the absolute minimum. 330uF won't be enough I'm sure. But if you can overcome 3 or 4 seconds already,
it means, I'd need a 20 times larger capacity of course. thus 6000-7000uF
With a 330uF/25v behind a 1N4001 (both recovered from some old project), I get about 8 seconds of holding the HU on. My problem was that, after turning off the car but leaving the radio on (on ACC), when I wanted to turn the engine on, the HU was shutting-down then coming back.
I think that, for keeping the HU on ~30 seconds, I would go with a 2200uF/25v (be prepared with a 4700uF in case you don't get enough time with the 2200). The HU gets it's main power from BAT+, the ACC+ just goes to a GPIO pin and sends a "soft power" signal, hence you don't get a huge power consumption on that rail.
If you are going that route, why not a timer delay with a 555? Please keep in mind that I am just throwing terms around. I did some 555 projects in the past, but nothing that required enough power to run a head unit.
This might be something.
https://www.amazon.com/GERI-Delay-R...rd_wg=sN6Ca&psc=1&refRID=7HA9ZFGPQZ8VSQT19K05
in the same line: why not using a PIC and programming the time interval to the second? or why not using an Arduino timer? or a TCO RTC such as DS3231? although valid questions, I see no need for such complication when, as I said before, the power consumption on the ACC+ rail is negligible, so a simple R/C (without external R) would do the job. Of course, any other implementation of any kind of timer will work.
NYCAR said:
If you are going that route, why not a timer delay with a 555? Please keep in mind that I am just throwing terms around. I did some 555 projects in the past, but nothing that required enough power to run a head unit.
This might be something.
https://www.amazon.com/GERI-Delay-R...rd_wg=sN6Ca&psc=1&refRID=7HA9ZFGPQZ8VSQT19K05
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Although I can see how this GERI Delay Relay will work postponing a switch-on, but how will it delay a switch off command?
If it's a signal, it's clear it can do that. But a car unit doesn't work that way (correct me if I'm wrong). It's a +12volt means switching on and once the voltage drops to 0Volt it's going into shutdown/sleep
This GERI catches a 12V signal to switch on and another 12V to switch off. So it just sends the voltage as an impulse, if I got it right? But not that it maintains the voltage over a longer period of time.
So I don't see how it could work with a car unit?
A capacitor indeed can maintain the 12V for a longer period (depending on the capacity and frolyt, elektrolyt, etc.) it will drop eventually to 11 volts.. then 10 volts...
and then a sudden drop to 2 or 1 volts. That's basically how the capacitor works and any voltage over 9.5 or 9.8 the head unit won't consider to shut down.
I know at 8 volts it's shutting down and at 10,5 it won't shut down. Not sure exactly where the exact value is where it will consider shutdown or remain powered.
I did a project in the past where;
1) Constant voltage went into a pin
2) Switched voltage went into another pin
3) When the switch at "2" was turned off, there would still be output for a certain period of time, then it turned off.
As for the GERI not being correct; I have no reason to dispute you. I am certainly not an electrical engineer and the project I mentioned above took hours of research on my end because that is not my background at all.
I did see other boards that appear to be exactly what is needed (and cost only two bucks on ebay), but they delay shutoff to a maximum of ten seconds and seem outside the parameters of what OP needs.
As I have proven my knowledge to be well below that of other people on this thread, I'll keep quiet now.
NYCAR said:
I did a project in the past where;
1) Constant voltage went into a pin
2) Switched voltage went into another pin
3) When the switch at "2" was turned off, there would still be output for a certain period of time, then it turned off.
As for the GERI not being correct; I have no reason to dispute you. I am certainly not an electrical engineer and the project I mentioned above took hours of research on my end because that is not my background at all.
I did see other boards that appear to be exactly what is needed (and cost only two bucks on ebay), but they delay shutoff to a maximum of ten seconds and seem outside the parameters of what OP needs.
As I have proven my knowledge to be well below that of other people on this thread, I'll keep quiet now.
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Hi NYCAR,
from your response I figure you understood me saying that I knew how it all works.
I probably didn't write correct what I wanted to ask, because I didn't actually want to say anything but my whole previous response was meant as :"QUESTION"
everything I wrote was meant as a question.. asking like:'does it do this?" or "does it work like that?"
My questions, because on the pictures I can only see a 100uF capacitor. So logically if the 12V on the input size drops, it can maintain 12V on the output only as long as 100uF will last.
Also I don't really get the AC one side and DC other side. In a car I only have DC, at least in my car.
But I doubt there are that many cars that can handle AC as normal car batteries are all DC logically.
You'd first have a DC/AC convertor
But I might just get it all wrong. That's why asking.
But I think for simplicity, the previous answer with the capacitor is the easiest part. logically current only flows through a closed circuit.
So with a diode prevent backwards current, you'll force the full ampere through the HU.
And I found, based on the technical advise from the other poster, this one https://octopart.com/ecr1ept472mff751631-jianghai-24161819
which should be able to keep the unit running for a while. If 330UF keeps the unit running for 7 more seconds, assume 5.
Than 4700 will be at least 71 seconds which is more than my 60seconds which I need as minimum.
Actually the minimum I have with mycartracks is 10 seconds but I always set it to 30 seconds so the unit doesn't think at each stop sign/traffic light, etc
that I am starting a new track. That's why I set it to 30 seconds. So when I switch off the car, I need 30 seconds for the mycartrack to understand the recording must be stopped.
than I need another 2-3 seconds to save the track and another 2-3 seconds to upload online. That's why I consider 60 seconds a safe value and with 71 seconds I'm over that
and that's based on 5 seconds on a 330uF but 330uF actually gives you 7 seconds. So I have more than enough reserves with just a little 2USD piece of hardware
As posted, the ACC doesn't really draw much Ampere so any cheap capacitor will do I guess.
But anyway thank you for pointing out the GERI! As I will buy one anyway but for another project of mine for which this device is perfect
I'm sure you explained correctly. I should have mentioned in my post that I was only stating what I meant as a way to 1) explain what I intended by my initial advice and 2) show my ignorance in electronics to hopefully forgive the fact that I posted a link to a device that you say is completely incorrect for the intended project.
NYCAR said:
I'm sure you explained correctly. I should have mentioned in my post that I was only stating what I meant as a way to 1) explain what I intended by my initial advice and 2) show my ignorance in electronics to hopefully forgive the fact that I posted a link to a device that you say is completely incorrect for the intended project.
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And I want to say that I don't know if it's completely incorrect
Just doesn't seem to do what I intend to do. But maybe it does, that's why my questioning.
I studied some more on the device and found now this, at least that's how I assume it to work:
As far as I can tell, on the NO output you always have the DC input. So if it's 12V than it remains 12V.
You switch on 0 Volt, it goes to 0 Volt.
But you have this:'timer running' the moment DC goes to 0V
the relay will switch from the NO to the NC output so you have now 12V on the NC. So for a fraction of a second Voltage will drop to 0V.
That might be short enough for the unit to continue running but it might also be too long. So it might, that the HU still goes into power off.
But even if it's fast enough, assume that it is fast enough relaying, the timer now starts. Meanwhile, the car start is finished and I have +12V on the NO again
but the timer is running. Again a short 0V drop.
It doesn't say anywhere, that it'll now reset the timer so next time I go to 0V on the DC again (stop the car engine) the timer again gives me 30 or more seconds.
So basically, if it does reset the timer when 12+ again is on the ACC then it might work, apart from the short 0V drops during the relay switching.
To overcome the relay switching, I might put a capacitor behind the relay to handle that. But it already has a capacitor on the board, so maybe it's just for that.
But 100uF seems very few to fulfill this function. But 4000uF would be an overkill in this situation.
All in all, it might work. Problem I have with it, is that the manual/description is not conclusive to me and 100uF seems a bit few (I must admit that's just out of my stomach)
because if the relay does it's work in 0,00001 seconds 100uF will be more than enough.
Either way, I won't need a 4700uF or even 10.000uF capacitor with this solution if it resets the timer again and again each time +12V is put on it.
So that's my main question. Will the timer be reset each time +12V is on it?
Since this device is only sold in the USA, I need to know precise functionality before I order it to Europe.
I have to send it to a friend of mine in the USA who always takes care of me for US-Only deliveries and then sends it to me here in Europe.
So it's very important I know exactly what I get when I order it. Not for the money, I have enough of that. But waiting 3-4 weeks for shipments .. I don't like waiting hehehe
I'm wondering how much mA the car radio uses on the ACC?
Pure theoretical the Capacitor of 330uF has 0,0003F at 12V
and F = As/V makes As = F*V = 0.0036
If A is now let's say 20mA then 0,0036 would be enough for 0,18 seconds
if it's 2mA then it would be enough for 1,8 seconds
Above it is said, with 330uF it can keep the 12V on the unit (or 9,5 where it switches off) for 6-7 seconds.
which means the current on the ACC should be around 0,6mA?
Is that correct? (ehm, I know it should be less in reality because Voltage drops while the capacitor is unloading but just assume it keeps up for the sake of easy math, I mean it doesn't have to be exact science here just raw getting close to it)
Than a 22000uF at 12 volts with 0,6mA would be enough for, theoretical 440 seconds = over 6 minutes..
But would the ACC really be 0,6mA? I understand it's just a signal and not really powering the device. But 0,6mA?
seems a bit too few for me.
Wait let me get this straight, you guys are discussing ways of keeping from turning off when you crank the engine?
That's really complicated thinking you're doing in that case.
I'm a car electronics technician, I install all kinds of doodads in cars.
What happens is your head unit has a solid 12v coming in, noted as +30.
It also has a 12v coming in when the key is turned to acc.
The one going to your head unit likely drops when the engine is cranked.
If you want to fix that issue it's simply a matter of running a wire, with a fuse of course, 4A will do, from your car's ignition switch to your head unit.
The ignition switch has 2 'switched' 12v wires coming out, one drops to 0v on crank and the other stays up, tee the wire you're running off that, solder it up and use it to connect to your head unit's 12v switched input.
SolidusNL said:
Wait let me get this straight, you guys are discussing ways of keeping from turning off when you crank the engine?
That's really complicated thinking you're doing in that case.
I'm a car electronics technician, I install all kinds of doodads in cars.
What happens is your head unit has a solid 12v coming in, noted as +30.
It also has a 12v coming in when the key is turned to acc.
The one going to your head unit likely drops when the engine is cranked.
If you want to fix that issue it's simply a matter of running a wire, with a fuse of course, 4A will do, from your car's ignition switch to your head unit.
The ignition switch has 2 'switched' 12v wires coming out, one drops to 0v on crank and the other stays up, tee the wire you're running off that, solder it up and use it to connect to your head unit's 12v switched input.
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I can say you're the man. That's Genius I never thought of that. It means that the Yellow Constant +12 I should get from the ignition switch the done that does not drop to 0V during starts up.?
llaugerm said:
I can say you're the man. That's Genius I never thought of that. It means that the Yellow Constant +12 I should get from the ignition switch the done that does not drop to 0V during starts up.?
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Exactly, you connect the one that doesn't drop during cranking to the yellow wire, that usually drops low when cranking. That way the radio starts up as soon as you switch the ACC on, and not after starting the engine.
1- i had same issue. Capacitor solve my problem, and will solve yours too
Hello!
I have a Android phone (SG S4mini) that i put on my car to work with TorqueOBD2 and GMaps apps.
I'm from Salvador, Bahia, Brasil and here is super very hot place. And so, to avoid start a fire on my veichle I remove the phone baterry, put a Buck Converter (12v for 3.7v) and connect on post ignition key, direct on baterry terminals (soldering)
All works perfect for a long time till now. But my only problem is: i need manually turn on the phone every time I turn on the car.
So, I need a way to automatic turn on my phone on when voltage (or current) is detect on baterry.
Just to be clear, is not boot when charging, because I do not use the charge port. Is BOOT WHEN VOLTAGE/CURRENT IS DETECTED ON BATERRY TERMINALS.
Plz I really need help!