Database Develop

warranty case?

hey, my kaiser is about 11 months old, has never been dropped or anything, treated very well, carried in pocket only.
however, when the device is closed, the halfes do not fit as well as they used to, there is a 2 - 3 mm gap between them looking from the side where the camera button is. if i remember correctly when i got the device there was no gap and the two parts fit together perfectly.
also, when closed, the 2 parts are kinda "loose", moving around some milimeters.
sliding works well, though. anyone got the same problem? is this a warranty case?

dunno if you have a waranty case...
BUT!!!
i remember a thread about this EXACT SAME problem...your alignment issue can be resolved by yourself after going through the thread...pictures were attached in the thread and if i remember correctly, it has to do with two very small (about 1mm x 1mm) pieces of rubber (that act as cushioning stoppers) on either side of the sliding mechanism along the side where the sim door is...
search for the thread to get a better idea...it was right here in the Kaiser General section...
i'll edit this post if i come across the thread
good luck

i might have misunderstood your question...my initial understanding was that the slide doesn't close completely and leaves the two halves misaligned. that is holding the phone in your hand in portrait mode with the screen facing you, the left or right edge of the top half would hang out a bit over the corresponding edge of the bottom half
but i think you are talking about a gap BETWEEN the halves such that maybe you could slide a credit card between the two halves of your phone???
if my new understanding is correct, there is a thread about THAT as well...essentially, you'll need special screw drivers (look at the screws that hold the top half to the slide mechanism to get an idea of whats needed)...then just tighten the screws to narrow the gap
once again, it would be better if you go find the ACTUAL thread...i swear i'm not making them up...they DO exist !!!

Replacing front housing / faceplate

I need to replace the front housing / front faceplate on my tilt. I have read the service manual and watched some videos on taking apart the tilt and have read the wiki etc. My question is do I really need to disassemble the whole unit to just replace the front faceplate? It looks like I may just need to remove 4 screws on the rear of the faceplate. So can I remove the faceplate by just removing those screws or do I need to dissasemble the whole phone?
thanks!
taz

oh and I searched tis forum too, but to no avail. I dont want to take apart the whole unit if it isnt necessary.

Yes you can.
Refer to manual attached.
Info is in this forum so search again if you need more info.

freakin awesome. I had searched a ton for something like this and did not find anything, maybe because I was using the terms front housing and faceplate in my searches - I just didn't know what else it would be called. Thank you SO much, this will save me a huge hassle!
taz

Instructions will work - but you have to be pretty carefuly not to damage the rest of the unit and overflex the hinges. Potential for having the top and bottom section gap large than you would like.
Did the ENTIRE housing yesterday - wasn't that bad - just have to keep track of the screws and not forget anything. Have to follow the directions carefully esp when removing the keyboard from the housing - the plastic stick on piece really has to be removed. Followed the official HTC manual from Mike Channon and the only thing I didn't do was completely take apart the SIM to separate the slider. In hindsight should have done that to tighten the hinges a bit so the tilt mechanism is a little more firm. Held my breath when I pressed the power button but it powered up and it worked perfectly all day.

thanks for the tips stim!
I just got done replacing the front cover and everything fit back together ok, one spot on one of the sides has a very slight gap now where the new cover and the rest of the phone don't 100% touch but it is barely noticeable and you would probly only notice it if you were looking for it.
One thing that is missing from those instructions, is that there is one screw that you have to remove after unplugging the 2 ribbon cables, this screw is a B*tch to remove and even harder to put back. It was such a pain to put back that I determined it wasnt necessary and left it out. If you're looking at the front of the phone, this tiny screw is located on the upper right corner.
so I'm hoping that the gap will eventually close more on on that one problem area but I'm not too concerned with it.
thanks again for the instructions Mister B
taz

How to replace Nexus Digitizier/Glass

So last week I cracked the glass on my poor Nexus. It took a horrible drop. Well I can't afford another Nexus and I can imagine having any other phone so I figured I'd repair this one. Read up alot on it and watched a video on Youtube. Ordered all the parts I needed I tackled it today.
Well I decided to do a How-To for any other Nexus owner with broken screens.
New digitizer - $40
Torx screwdriver -$5
Philips screwdriver -$5
Plastic tools - Free
Total - $50
Sure beats the $125 some online sites charge.
I would like to thank ifixit and slickromeo.
1. Gather all your tools and replacement glass (known as a digitizer).
Note: Needed tools are a Philips #00, a Torx T4, and a plastic pry tool (Mine was included with the new screen)
2. Set up a clean comfortable area to work in. You may be here for awhile and you're going to want to reduce the amount of dust that could potentially get on the new glass.
Note: I used a folded over microfiber towel to keep the area clean and also add some padding to the hard counter top to prevent even more damage while working with the phone.
3. Power phone off and remove battery cover, battery, SIM card, and Micro SD card. Set aside in a safe place.
4.Our first obstacle is going to be the antennae cover at the bottom of the phone. There are three plastic clips holding it in place (Circled in red). Use a combination of the pry tool, a guitar pick, butter knife, and any other instrument you need to shove in there. It is a pain in the ass... the video I watched online made it seem like it was going to be alot harder than it was, but if you work from left to right, or right to left, and get the outside one unclipped the other two come off pretty easy. Once you get it off set it aside with the battery cover and other things.
Note: Be careful not to break these tiny, fragile clips as they are the only things holding this cover in place.
5. Scream profanities and wipe the sweat off your brow from the previous step. I know it was frustrating and nerve racking trying not to break your precious Nexus.
6. Ok good job now to start the real deconstruction. I'm going to start with the battery tray and then move down to the antennae. There are three screws holding the tray down, but before we start on those there is this tiny ridiculous little "VOID" sticker covering up one of them. I wasn't able to remove it intake, partly because I don't really care about my warranty, but I'm sure with alot of patience and tweezers one could take it off intake and put it back. But screw that just get it off to get to the screw underneath.
7. Now two of these screws is a Torx and the third is a Philips (All in green). Remove them and put them somewhere very safe.
Note: I have four plastic cups set up to place my screws into. These are going into the first one.
8.Next you need to remove the battery tray. There are seven tabs (yellow circles) around it that you need to release using your plastic pry tool. Once those are released gently pull away form the bottom of the phone to remove the tray. Set the tray aside.
9. Now for the antennae cover. There are two more screws to remove, a Torx and a Philips (Orange circles). These screws are going in the second bowl. After the screws are out, gently lift up on the bottom of that cover and it should remove easily. Be very careful not to damage the circuit board during removal.
10. Next to come out is the logic board. there are two more very tiny screws to remove (White circles). Into the third bowl with those. Next you need to disconnect three connections (purple circles). Then carefully go around the perimeter of it with your pry tool and VERY CAREFULLY remove all the little tabs holding it in place. Then simply push up form the bottom of the logic board and slide it out. Set it somewhere very safe.
11. Now onto the actual case of the Nexus. Remove the six Philips screws, 1 at the top and 5 at the bottom . Again there are a series of little clips, five of em, around the perimeter that need to be undone and then the case very easily separates from the screen. Set the case aside.
12. Very simply pry the LCD screen away form the glass digitizer. There it is... the broken glass.
13. Now take your pry tool and from the back of the glass (not the side you would touch if you were using the phone) wedge it between the frame and the glass to separate to adhesive. Once the pry tool is in you can just slide it around the edge of the glass to separate the whole thing. TA-DA your broken glass is forever gone.
Note: The glass is broken and very sharp. Take extreme caution not to cut yourself.
14. Now we just have to put the whole thing back together. Start with the new glass/digitizer. Peel off the plastic protector to expose the adhesive and very carefully put it in place.
15. Wrap the connector that is part of the digitizer around and secure it in place with its adhesive.
16. Take the whole screen assembly and slide it back into the case. Push to secure the clips then replace the six screws that you removed.
17. Slide the logic board carefully back into place. You may have to hold down/more out of the way a few of the connectors. Take it a little at a time and see where it is getting caught up. You got this far don't lose your patience.
18. Snap the back antennae cover back in and replace its screws.
19. Slide the battery tray into place and replace its screws.
20. Snap the gray antennae cover back on.
21. Replace Micro SD card, battery, and battery cover.
22. Enjoy the beauty of your Nexus without a broken screen.
23. Place Nexus in Otterbox Defender case so this never happens again.
I have pictures that document each step but need to be approved by a moderator before it lets me post em... sorry guys

Hey, awesome job on fixing your screen. I would love to see them, my Nexus just went through the same thing 30 min ago. I had it on my lap, and upon stepping out of the car, SMACK, is all I heard. It landed face down and this is the aftermath. It's much worse than it looks in the picture.

Man, that sucks. I know that feeling.
I'll try to put the pictures up to help you out. Or at least a link to my photobucket.
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk

thanks! I just cracked mine yesterday after the phone fell out of my pocket onto a concrete floor. Ouch. I'm giving this a whirl.

Nice, I'll keep this in mind for the day I accidentally break my n1.
I just wish we could somehow jury-rig the Incredible digitizer to our phones =/

I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?

Thank you so much for taking the time to do this write up. I just dropped my phone and smashed the screen on concrete 30 mins ago. All is working but the glass is cracked. I've ordered a new Digitizer/Glass from ebay for £30, I just hope it comes by tomorrow.

you can post picture after 5 posts so it should be good now you have 8 posts

I've just completed the work of replacing the broken glass.
I used your guide throughout, it's a shame you haven't been able to post the pictures as it definitely would have helped. I managed to google some dismantling pictures to help with your talk through as it was hard going some times.
Many thanks again.

Another useful tip: run an air purifier aimed at your work station to minimize the risk of getting dust in the glass.

blueboymj: Any chance you can edit your original post and add your pictures so others can use them? I searched quite a lot for a specific procedure to change the digitizer on my poor N1; This was the best, most accurate guide I found. I've done digitizers on a few iPhones (sorry for the profanity) using the ifixit guides, but alas, the ifixit guides were better for them than they are for the N1.
On a side note: The end cap that gives people so much trouble fell off of my N1 in the initial drop. I pushed it back on, and continued using the phone even though the glass was shattered. Removing it the first time was not so hard, I think it was not back on as well as it should have been. Removing it the second time (another story) was much harder. There are two little plastic "bars" on the end cap (step 4 above) that fit into small grooves on the "antenna cover". (step 7) I think the trick may be to possibly pinch the edges of the end cap, while sliding it toward the bottom of the phone. I looked at it after it was open, to see why it was so hard to remove, and realized I had been inadvertently helping it hold itself closed while trying to pry it open. Maybe one of the videos addresses this; I did not watch them.
Thank you to the OP and the responders for this post!

So where exactly did u order the new digitizier and parts from?
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App

This thread should be added to the N1 wiki. Thanks for the instructions.

DrewOntheMYT said:
I just recently converted to the n1, bought the phone for cheap off craigslists, but notice burn in on the screen, will changing the digitizier also fix the burn in?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Burn in? Like shadowing on the LCD? Nope.
Thats the LCD, and is completely different than the digitizer. The digitizer is just a clear plastic/glass layer that goes OVER the lcd to detect touch.

I had the digitizer and a new case and was going to have a local phone store replace this for me. However, they just gave me some BS story about how you cannot replace the digitizer without also replacing the LCD screen, which I did not provide.
So I've been without a phone (since they have it) for no reason and have to drive out of my way to retrieve it.
Hey crappy phone store, if you're too scared to do the job just say so, don't try to make up a bunch of manure and say it can't be done.
Anyway, I just ordered the required tools that I don't have and am going to give this a whirl.
OP, if you can't post your pics, can you email them to me?

does it fix the multitouch problem?

How hard is it to change buttons...

I have always preferred the look of the Euro HD2 with the all white keys as compared to the white/red/green keys on the T-MoUS. I saw on ebay you can buy the replacement keys the other day and am pondering changing my T-Mo keys for the Euro version.
Has anyone done this? Is it a huge process or somewhat simple if you are mechanically inclined? I am a machinist by trade, and know a thing or two about electronics repair as well, and always done my own repairs whether it be a DVD player that broke, or my cars. I just dont want to take my HD2 apart only to find out I have to also replace a circuit board or some kind of "snap together" crap because it inevitably breaks upon cracking open the phone...

Here is a link at the bottom that will be pretty self explainatory. In a word - DON'T ! If you are doing it just to change the color of the keys the risk of really messing up something when you open it and put it back together is pretty high. Nick or break one of those flexi cables and its all over - try to find a replacement part. The risk of over driving one of those screws and stripping the plastic threads is pretty high if you don't have a light touch. If your phone is still under warranty you break the liquid/tamper seal over one of those torx screws and it won't be unless you can find a replacement (they are available though some Chinese/Hong Kong sources).
I've done cable/screen/case replacements on my TYTN's and TILTs and stopped at a Fuze. The Tilts and TYTN's were a piece of cake - plenty of room within the case and the connectors were pretty sturdy. You have to be pretty careful not to manhandle anything keep a static loop on you wrist thats grounded to guard against static. Most of the newer phones that have laminated screens you have to heat them (Fuze) just to remove the screen/keyboards from the case. Fortunately the HD2 doesn't appear to have that problem. On Mike Channon's website he doesn't have the official HTC disassembly guide yet and I wouldn't do anything until thats posted. It will outline how to do everything and how to put it back together. The guide is pretty good but it doesn't show the key removal or a close up phone of how they are attached. With the HD2 I probably would touch mine (still under warranty/insurance) unless it was not covered and I had to replace a component that was necessary for the phone to function.
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&usg=ALkJrhg7dfSa9LTNNfVavSyyQcCeWFtAHg

stim141 said:
Here is a link at the bottom that will be pretty self explainatory. In a word - DON'T ! If you are doing it just to change the color of the keys the risk of really messing up something when you open it and put it back together is pretty high. Nick or break one of those flexi cables and its all over - try to find a replacement part. The risk of over driving one of those screws and stripping the plastic threads is pretty high if you don't have a light touch. If your phone is still under warranty you break the liquid/tamper seal over one of those torx screws and it won't be unless you can find a replacement (they are available though some Chinese/Hong Kong sources).
I've done cable/screen/case replacements on my TYTN's and TILTs and stopped at a Fuze. The Tilts and TYTN's were a piece of cake - plenty of room within the case and the connectors were pretty sturdy. You have to be pretty careful not to manhandle anything keep a static loop on you wrist thats grounded to guard against static. Most of the newer phones that have laminated screens you have to heat them (Fuze) just to remove the screen/keyboards from the case. Fortunately the HD2 doesn't appear to have that problem. On Mike Channon's website he doesn't have the official HTC disassembly guide yet and I wouldn't do anything until thats posted. It will outline how to do everything and how to put it back together. The guide is pretty good but it doesn't show the key removal or a close up phone of how they are attached. With the HD2 I probably would touch mine (still under warranty/insurance) unless it was not covered and I had to replace a component that was necessary for the phone to function.
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&usg=ALkJrhg7dfSa9LTNNfVavSyyQcCeWFtAHg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the link! You make some good points though I have the skills necessary. After looking at the pics it seems pretty straight forward. Similar to other devices Ive taken apart. I can skip about half of it because Im not completely disassembling, just need access to the buttons. If I go for it I will post up the step by step as well, minus all the extra crap.

donkeypunch85 said:
Thanks for the link! You make some good points though I have the skills necessary. After looking at the pics it seems pretty straight forward. Similar to other devices Ive taken apart. I can skip about half of it because Im not completely disassembling, just need access to the buttons. If I go for it I will post up the step by step as well, minus all the extra crap.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It just seems a big hassle just to change a few buttons, thats just my two cents. But if you really want those white buttons, knock yourself out man!

[Guide]Taking apart the Streak 7 (wip)

Introduction:
It's been over a year since the Streak 7 has been released, long enough that Dell has stopped selling it on their website, yet noone has released a legimitate disassembly guide yet.
Around launch time there was a video made showing the device being taken apart, what makes the video completely worthless is the fact they skipped all the most important steps of actually disassembling it and fast forwards though it till when it's nearly fully taken apart.
This guide will detail out all the steps to take it apart while attempting to minimize damage to it for reassembly.
Overall difficulty: 6/10
Without a guide: 11/10
Tools required:
Hair dryer [strongly recommended]
Very small torx screwdriver
Very fine plastic shim or xacto knife
Step 1: Removing the side bumpers
The two side bumpers cover the majority of the screws. The bumpers themselves are held on by a strip of adhesive tape and are also very brittle. The most obvious method to remove them is to heat each of the bumpers with a hair dryer to weaken the adhesive on them. After heating it multiple times it should hopefully weaken enough so that a thin plastic shim or xacto knife can be forced in from the edges.
Depending on the importance of minimizing cosmetic damage, this can be the longest step.
Summerized steps:
Heat bumpers until adhesive is weakened
Shove thing instrument underneath bumpers from outside edge
Pry off bumpers lengthwise to avoid snapping them
Caution:
The area near the capacitive buttons has an exposed ribbon cable, care must be used around that as the cable can be easily sliced.
The shiny plastic bumpers are VERY brittle and can easily snap if flexed any amount. It may take many re-heatings to remove them without damage
Excessive heat applied to the screen may damage the underlying LCD, it is recommended to slowly heat the bumpers in multiple runs to reduce the chance of damage.
Step 2: Removing the screws
List of screws:
2 visible screws under left bumper
3 visible screws under right bumper
1 screw hidden underneath capacitive sensing pad
2 screws hidden underneath white pads inside side flap
The screws underneath the flap might not be possible to remove without cosmetic damage. As they are underneath the flap this may be an acceptable trade-off.
Step 3: Seperating display from body
The display try is attached to the base by plastic clips on the tray, there are 3 clips on the left side that must be detached and then the display should be able to slide slightly leftwards(?) and then opened downwards.
Caution: When detaching the display be aware of the following cables:
One above the dock connector connecting the display itself
One towards the bottom left connecting the touch sensor
One just right of the buttons connecting their sensors
Step 4: Detach display cables
The cables are standard thin ribbon cables, the main display one has a latch while the two touch ones do not(?)
Step 5: Finish detaching the display from the base
The guide will end here and not go though removing the motherboard or other components from the base tray. They are all simply held on by multiple screws.
Step 6: Reassembly
Repeat steps 1-5 in reverse order.
Food for thought:
The differences between the Wifi and 3/4g models are:
Lack of modem
Lack of PCI-E slot for modem
Lack of sim card assembly
Lack of cell modem antenna assembly
It may be possible to solder on a new PCI-E and sim card assembly to turn a Wifi into a 3/4g model. The PCI-E slot is a standardized one while the sim card bay might be custom fitted to the S7. Swapping out the modems from the EU and US submodels is as simple as removing and replacing.
Acknowledgments:
Graffixnyc for donating a device to hack at with a screwdriver disassemble
FCC.gov for stock photos of the disassembeled pieces
Dell for making the Streak 7 held together ultimately by glue.
No thanks to the other teardown video for SKIPPING half of the most important steps
Shameless self-advertising:
The guide is still somewhat incomplete as when I recieved the donor S7 it was already badly damaged, also as I was working more or less blind it took even more damage in the disassembly. If I had a 2nd one to disassemble I might be able to do it with minimum damage.

-Reserved-

WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.

Thanks theManii
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.

jydie said:
WOW!! Great job getting the Streak 7 apart. I would love to see the guts of the S7 in person.
Now we just need to get you a S7 that is in read-only mode so that you can try to open it up and figure out how to reset it. I am pretty sure that the Streak 7 I sent to Dell for a reset was the same one they sent back... but I do not see any physical signs of it being opened. I still have a hunch that they had to open it because they could not fix the problem over the phone. They had to re-flash it... I am not sure if the flash was required, but it makes me wonder if they had to replace the entire motherboard or internal storage drive.
Do you see the internal storage drive? Is it soldered on, or could it easily be replaced? Also, do you see a cmos type battery that could be removed and reinserted... or a jumper to reset the bios? I am not sure if tablet motherboards are anything like desktop motherboards.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Everything but the modem card is soldered onto the board and the board itself has no jumpers.
crockashat said:
I appreciate this, I have seen the video in question - and yeah, the most important sequences for disassembly were not included.
I do have a question in relation to #1. after warming the end trim pieces were you able to use your "shim" around the majority of the perimeter, or did you just come in from the inside by the screen to work these trim pieces loose?
I look forward to the pictures, it will make me a lot more comfortable in taking on the disassembly challenge, thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I went from the outside as I had a xacto knife and was afraid of scratching the screen, I was pretty agressive with it since it was already scratched up. If you dont go very slowly you might end up discoluring the black plastic (though it's black on black and not hugely noticible)
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals

Originally Posted by TheManii>
I used the FCC internal photos to work off of when I did it:
3/4g internals
wifi internals
Thanks for the information, I will be attempting some surgery of the DS7 in the near future.
when I tried to open the links, they come up as:
You are not authorized to access this page.
not a big deal, I am mechanically inclined so I can figure out most things without too much destruction

Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages

Rewrote the guide, it's nearly complete except the lack of pictures highlighting the various things. Placeholders have already been placed summerizing what they will be of

best diagrams/pics on the 3G/4G linked page
TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These links did work.
Actually both the internal and external photo PDFs have some useful information, and it appears that the more detailed information is in the link for the 3G/4G model.
Thanks again The Manii, appreciate all the helpful information, ROMs, etc.

TheManii said:
Hmm, that's odd, perhaps they dont like direct links to it
3/4g
wifi
it's the links labeled 'internal photo' on their respective pages
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The FCC links work now! Thank you so much for fixing them. Those internal photos are very nice... still I would love to see one in person. I just love taking things apart to see whats inside... but I normally wait until they are dead or defective.
Looks like they use SanDisk for the internal storage... and it is indeed soldered to the board. So, I am not sure what they are doing when they "fix" Streak 7s stuck in read-only mode. Maybe they have to manually short out or complete a connection on the motherboard while re-flashing the internal storage?? Or... with the right equipment, could they actually remove the old flash drive and solder on a new one?
By the way, I like the redesigned layout for your guide. Thank you so, so much for taking the time to describe this process. I greatly appreciate it.

Did you happen to take a close look at the camera to see a S/N or make/model?

I havnt looked at any of the part numbers, I'll make a list when I make the photos to finish the guide

Unfortunately looking at the internal photos again, it looks like virtually all the major chips are underneath the two RF shields or have their own RF shield.
Pretty much the only visible chips are the touchscreen controller, possibly the sim card interface chip and one of the lcd driver chips.
I'm not willing to cut/remove the RF shields as they seem pretty secure, so I'm not gonna be able to pull part numbers off them.
What I'm left with now is a device with:
Demolished dock connector
Cut Capacitive button cable
Missing Flap
Extensive cosmetic damage
Only the cut cable was during the dissassembly though, rest was as-is.
I'm gonna take the final disassembly photos tomorrow then put the whole thing in storage.

hmmm...
I wonder if you would be interested in selling that poor streak for parts
I just bought a unit with a cracked digitizer...

finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.

TheManii said:
finally added images to guide, I will have to go back some time later and double check it's accuracy.
It's been long enough I dont really remember the screw locations underneath the bumpers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the glass and screen one piece or will the gorilla glass come apart? I cracked the glass today and the screen itself isn't damaged at all. The unit works perfectly but has cracks on the glass.
Have you heard about sources for parts?
thanks in advance,
DC

The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.

can you see a maker/model of the lcd? also the battery.

TheManii said:
The glass and lcd arnt bonded, there's an air gap.
I dont know about getting replacement parts, beyond the scope of the guide.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the guide, I'll use it when I find the glass to replace.

this is awesome.
been looking for such a guide since long time.
thanks!