ok here it goes....i thought about sharing this story about what i done during a boring physics lesson at school, it sounds quite dangerous, but luckily i am still alive to tell your guyz out there.
I was bored during class when the teacher was explaining facts about an electric socket. The teacher told us many facts about an electrical socket that gives an output of 240 volts and 0.5 amps. And then he said that 0.1 amp can kill someone. Without realizing or caring about what he said, i was dared by my friends to shove a pair of scissors into the socket and turn it on. Once i did it, the whole classroom lights suddenly blew out, and all electrical appliances that run on mains switched off. Sparks then came out of the socket holes and I was laughing.
Luckilly the teacher didnt see me or anyone else appart from my friends. After the physics lesson, everyone said that the whole of the 4th floor had a blackout. And dats the point where i laughed hard
I still dont know why i did that in the first place, although i know it was a stupid thing to do and i could have got myself killed. But all i really know is that i blew up many fuse,
it's described at walking on the edge of committing a darvin
Well, I'm not sure if your teacher is mistaken or you've just remembered it wrongly, but a 0.5A on a 240V is not sufficient to power many things. E.g., the total power of a 240V 0.5A is 120W, that's slightly higher than an old fashion 100W lightbulb. The max plug in UK (which I believe is so in HK) is 13A, that is more than 3000W, which then can be used to power stuff like an iron/heater, which goes around 2000W.
Pluging in the scissors to the socket short circuit it and hence creating a flux high current, blowing/triggering any safety fuse along the way. Since you said the entire floor was blackout, it seems that it only blown/triggered 1 major fuse. Unlikely it will cause multiple blown/triggered fuses.
On the 0.1A killing a person issue, if you consider a person's resistance is 2MOhm (which I think is higher than that), it would take a relatively large 20MV (that is 2x10^7) voltage across, which you can't easily get (if not impossible, consider a high tension cable is probably around 1MV). If you were to get that kind of voltage, the power across would be 0.1x0.1x2MOhm = 20,000W, which would definitely kill someone. Consider the amount shown, I bet it takes less than 0.1A to kill someone. To put into perspective, a Taser gun has a peak (not constant) voltage of 50,000V, which is (consider the 2MOhm assumption) 0.025A.
FYI, in most cases of electric shock cases, the fatal part is usually the duration of the electric shock (i.e. small continuous current flowing, cooking you for 30 minutes) or hurting yourself after a shock (i.e. knock yourself onto the solid ground after a shock).
Anyone fall asleep yet? anyway, whatever you do, don't mess with electricity. Respect it.
p/s: Sorry for the lengthy lecture above.. "occupation sickness".
Alan Chan said:
I still dont know why i did that in the first place, although i know it was a stupid thing to do and i could have got myself killed. But all i really know is that i blew up many fuse,
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Click to collapse
You might want to lay off the pipe. As you can see, there is no good that can come from it.
16 Volts AC straight through the heart can be fatal.
AC requires about 60 mA to cause fibrillation, DC needs 500 mA for the same result. Fibrillation is not always fatal....
get new friends
mikechannon said:
Jees it'll be a merciful release.
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Click to collapse
I have a heart condition and I can assure you from personal experience that fibrillations are far from mercyful
wow, i never knew you guys would be so passionate about what i did. I thought u guyz would growl at me for my stupidity.
Hanmin, you can be my next physics teacher for giving me a very comprehensive lecture , your lecture was easilly understood compared to my crappy science teacher
and yes ultraprimeomega, i think i may need new friends for the sake of my safety and education
Anyone here watching "Myth busters"?
They did a whole episode on throwing electric appliances in to bathtub and measuring the current across the "heart" of a dummy to see if dropping a hairdryer or toaster in the bath can really kill you.
I didn't see that Mythbuster. I guess it should be confirmed? Although there are lost of circumstances influencing the outcome:
-use pure H2O, it hardly conducts
-use non-ionic bath oil (good for the skin too)
-a decent Residual-current device would cut off power before you can even notice it
-a decent low amp fast fuse could be a life saver
-high ionic bath salt makes the water much more conductive than your body
-place the tub on rubber, use PVC water supply and drain pipes
they had to mess with the fuses to get enough current to kill the gel doll before they went off
Rudegar said:
they had to mess with the fuses to get enough current to kill the gel doll before they went off
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oh, right, a gel doll again... very nice material for ballistics, although I believe they should put bones in it for realistic results.
Arteries, veins and nerves are full of ions giving excellent conductive paths through our body, I doubt if they simulated those in the gel.
I got kicked out of woodwork when i was 13 for tying a pupils tie round a lathe and threatening to turn it on, because he had made a better baseball bat than me, unfortunatly, for him, my friend hit the power button and nearly killed him, we promptly got suspended and moved into sewing as a punishment, with a teacher from hell. My friend who i wont name decided to wire up some gold thread to the mains socket and complained to her(teacher) that the machine was faulty, needless to say when she touched the machine she was electrocuted along with my friend, who was promptly expelled, and i was giving a severe caning, in those days we had no trip switches so the only thing that saved them both was the thin gold thread that blew as well.
Moral of the story is dont mess with electrics, or hang around with nutcases
Maggy said:
oh, right, a gel doll again... very nice material for ballistics, although I believe they should put bones in it for realistic results.
Arteries, veins and nerves are full of ions giving excellent conductive paths through our body, I doubt if they simulated those in the gel.
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Click to collapse
With an heavy insulation on the outer body part (i.e. skin = not very good conductor), not even a gold wire inside the body matters. Further, I suspect that the water and the bathtub plays an important part as well.
First, consider that you throwing an electrical appliance into the water, chances are, the 'Neutral' line will be in the water (together with the dangerous 'Live'). Any current from the live line will eventually find the shortest path to the neutral line, leaving the rest (i.e. probably you) untouched.
Then, consider that the current is increased, hence requiring not only the shortest path to the neutral, but a lot of paths to the neutral as well. As with the Faraday cage theory, electric current will tend to go around an object (i.e. electrons repelling each other), especially a better conducting one (i.e. a car protecting the driver from a lighting strike). As such, in terms of choice, if the current require additional path to go to the neutral, chances are, it will rather go via the water (better conductor, I think) or the steel bath tub (i.e. like the body of a car), than your body.
Hanmin, your whole story sounds fair enough... for laymen.
First of all you're mixing up AC, DC and static behaviour.
Faraday created spectacular shows using extremely high static charges, indeed comparable to a car hit by lightning. If you want to conduct an experiment with a metal bath tub filled with nice warm water and any bath soap, salt or oil struck from the side by lightning, I volunteer to step in.
So, our PC's have metal housing, you'd say, so they're a Faraday cage? Right? Wrong. I've had a computer company near the Dutch coast where thunder and lightning are regular events. I could tell when repairs would come in the next day. Phone, Lan and power wires go straight into the metal cage without making contact with the cage itself. Lightning doesn't even have to strike these wires directly, induction can be fatal for your equipment.
Edison called AC "the killer current" and refused to sell AC. AC can not "flow away" to neutral, it wants to go to earth/ground. As long as the fuse doesn't blow, it delivers as much energy as it can. In a bath tub it will not behave like lightning trying to find the shortest way, but like a cloud, spearding as fast as it can. Remember electrons all have the same negative load so they push each other away. And they are LIGHTning fast.
That's why it's also not a good idea to use a standard vacuum cleaner to clean your PC on the inside: the motor will create a cloud of electrons trying to find a way to ground. The free electrons can move much faster through the cloud of static charged dust particles toward your PCB than the slow air stream moves to the vacuum.
The surface of the dry skin is indeed a bad conductor. But even good enough for ECG using leads with suction cups or stickers. And ECG measures very faint electrical pulses in the heart, even with leads on the hands or feet.
Most people believe that water is a good conductor. But in fact pure water is an almost perfect isolator. And even tap water in most Western societies is so pure that you can hardly split it into hydrogen and oxigen using a fairly safe 12 V DC set up, not without first adding a hand full of salt. Current needs ions to move through a liquid, our bodies are full of ions, tap water has much less.
Niiccceee.. good that my explaination has someone to read it in details. I'm so worried that my stuff will get everyone to sleep. Anyway...
You are right that the induction from a lighting can toast your phone, lan and power line. However, as these lines are not long and straight enough anywhere near the PC, the fatal induction is actually caused by somewhere along the way to your company (e.g. from the phone exchange, along the telephone pole/underground, to your company). Your PC will be safe from lightling if it is disconnection from possible external induction source (e.g. the phone line to the outside world). I'm happy to put myself inside the PC case (if it is big enough) for a lighting strike
Some history lesson for all. Edison called the AC the killer current mainly because of the business competition between the DC and AC business. As Edison has spent a lot of money and effort just to change the public point of view on the safety of electricity, and just as the business is getting some money... this Tesla (I think) guy made AC electricity and business is good (costrofit ratio), due to the fact that AC has a certain edge on long distance transfer (I'll omit the details on this). Hence, Edison is trying very very hard to make AC look dangerous, by killing innocent animals (in some cases, virtually just cook it), and eventually, co-invented the electric chair.
In the view of the danger of DC current, it is a false impression of most people thinking that DC current is safe, mainly because the DC current we normally exposed to are low voltage DC current (e.g. batteries and phone charger). However, in strict AC/DC defination, a lighting strike is a DC current. And, I think a Taser gun uses DC too (you would certainly need to use some form of capasitor to store enough voltage for a shock, using regular batteries), unless the battery use is exceptionally designed for it.
Anyone has a Taser to confirm this? Does it gives out a buzzing sound from low to high frequency when armed some AA batteries operated cameras with powerful flash will have the same buzzing noise, indicating that the capacitor is charging, ready for the flash).
As for your statement of "AC can not 'flow away' to neutral, it wants to go to
earth/ground.", I'm not sure if you really meant "can not", or "not only". Anyway, all AC electric stuff, electrons goes between live/neutral, and does not require the earth/ground to be functional (not safely, at least).
If you remember some electric circuit theory, if caes where you have two parallel line (AC or DC), with one line much lower resistance (i.e. shorter distance between live and neutral) compared to the other (longer distance to 'ground' where 'ground' is not designed to pair with live), majority of the current will go through the lower resistance route and hence current that goes through the high resistance route maybe very well harmless. HOWEVER, there are cases where the current in through the high resistance route is harmful, that are in the cases where the current going through the low resistance route is excessive high. Example, the low:high resistance current ratio may be 100:1. If it takes (say) 1A to be fatal, the other route will need to have 100A (which will have all fuses nuked - e.g. my house has a main fuse of about 80A for both the heater and the cooker). That's what mentioned on my post above around the "consider that the current is increased..." section. And, as for the case with extreme high current, apply the Faraday thing mentioned on your first paragraph.
Take the Taser gun for example. If you were read the user manual, there is a minimal distance requirement between you and the target, due the the fact that the probes triangular trajectory path. Being too close to the target, will cause the probes to be too closely attached, not giving enough muscle area to 'disable' the target. The electron will not spread around (like clouds) through all the muscle, just the shortest route to the other probe (there may be current through other muscles, but too small to be noticeable).
Where in the Western societies are you in now? US? Nice... in the UK, you are/not so lucky, as you dont get very much pure water over the tap. UK is on hardwater, which seemingly adding mineral to the diet, probably in such situation, protect us from electrocution? If you were to be 1+ hours around London, take a bit of tap water, leave it on any surface and leave it for it to evaporate. At the end of the day, you'll get a pile of white powder. Yes, it is this bad.
As for the ECG issue, it goes the same with the low-vs-high resistance route. I'm sure it wont work underwater (dirty water?). However, still, it is a better conductor than many things.
Taser guns use electronics related to those modern tiny switched power adapters. The result in both cases is indeed DC. The physics of the lightning path are very complex, lightning can fork out to lots of places being hit by one strike but in general you're right that DC/static tries to find a short route.
In one of my first messages in this thread I mentioned what DC it takes to kill, so yes, I'm well aware that there is no such thing as "safe electricity".
If you short a capacitor or battery, current flows in one direction, from high potential to low potential till both potentials are equal.
AC doesn't come in batteries or capacitors, it comes from a generator constantly pulling the potential from above neutral to below neutral, 50 or 60 times a second. If you would short circuit the generator itself it would continue to produce electricity as long as it hasn't killed itself. There is no flowing away till both potentials are equal.
I'm a retired computer engineer, but I still do remember Ohm's law, thank you.
In case of the bath tub it means:
we have a fixed voltage (U) of 110 or 220V, depends where you live
we can measure resistance (I) from the device that drops into the water to the feet of the tub, to the tap, to the drain
U=I.R in this case U=I1.R1+I2.R2...InRn
With an 80A fuse, the radio falling on the feet, the tap behind the back and the drain and two tub feet straight under it it seems likely that about 2/3 of 80A, well lets say 50A will strike you, 50 x 110 = 5500W
That should boil the egg if not electrocute it
I WOULD SAY YOU WOULD GET A GREAT SHOCK FROM A TOASTER IN A BATH. If you took a mains plug and put two springs on the live and neutral and inserted this into a bath of water it would generate heat, i know i have boiled a cup of water for tea by this method. so if the electricity didnt kill you you will be boiled like an egg
yeah in some situations i see myth busters as more intertainment then real science
like when they had a rather small boat as an example of titanic pulling people down when it went down
a such a small raft cant compare to titanic in ways of down pull
but they are ok fun
but if they bust a myth dont mean a 100% bust in my book
Maggy said:
...
we have a fixed voltage (U) of 110 or 220V, depends where you live we can measure resistance (I) from the device that drops into the water to the feet of the tub, to the tap, to the drain
U=I.R in this case U=I1.R1+I2.R2...InRn
With an 80A fuse, the radio falling on the feet, the tap behind the back and the drain and two tub feet straight under it it seems likely that about 2/3 of 80A, well lets say 50A will strike you, 50 x 110 = 5500W That should boil the egg if not electrocute it
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Click to collapse
Equations, I like! For the case you've calculated above, you consider that the full 80A is flowing. And weirdly, you seemingly considering that 2/3 flowing through a human body. Lets look at this, at the 50A you mentioned (yes, you are right, 5500W will cook you very well). Consider the worst case of U at 240V, your body will have to have (U/I = R) a resistance of 4.8Ohm, which is weirdly small, dont you think?
As with scousemartin's boil an egg, you will have to consider the large amount of water in the bath tub as oppose to the amount of water you use in boiling the egg (e.g. it would take really long for the water to boil) And, even IF the water has similar rate in raise of temperature, I'm sure the person involved will be pretty quick to jump out of the water (when a toaster hit the tub) before it gets boiling.
Related
I guess some of you may interested to mod your kaiser screen to tilt almost 90 degree, then you can use it on your car without any holder.
Here's a guidance document i pull together.
Remember, do it only on your own risk.
Enjoy!
Too scary for my taste.
Thanks! That's looks a little intimidating.
So basically is the only reason it tilts more is because the two plastic pieces are cut? What would happen if those two pieces were cut totally?
Thanks again.
A prediction...
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
nice..
i was thinking of something along the same thoughts, as it tilts, why have a holder!! just drive safe (as always)
exept, im still waiting for mine..
Wow! Nice Hardware mod tonychen! Just posting to register my shock and awe! Great writeup too!
@trick420: As can be seen, like Hermes, most sensitive electronics components are in a metal Faraday cage so this isn't as dangerous as it looks from an electronic standpoint. It's always a good idea to use a grounding strap however.
All those plastic tabs are gonna be a real bear to work with though. The TyTN only had a few but the Kaiser appears to be riddled with them.
trick420 said:
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure everyone knows what electro-static discharge is.
so there are two bits of plastic going around the hinges that are stopping the display from tilting fully? like a tendon or do these bits of plastic go up against something to stop motion?
Yes you are right!
The ESD strap i guess is not available to most people except hardware engineers. The simplest way to discharge the static electricity is to wet your hands with a wet towel.
trick420 said:
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The plastic needs to be cut as it stop the two metal blocks to tilt up more. If you cut it totally, you still get the same result, so i don't see to much reason for doing that.
juiceppc said:
Thanks! That's looks a little intimidating.
So basically is the only reason it tilts more is because the two plastic pieces are cut? What would happen if those two pieces were cut totally?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uploaded the guide to a mirror:
http://rapidshare.com/files/73519908/Kaiser_Screen_Mod.pdf
This is a great GUIDE!!!!
Thanks Tonychen.
Nadavi.
Not to be a killjoy but people should be aware that the plastic strips are there to prevent over extension of the thin ribbon cables connecting the display to the body.
You may not actually part these immediately but constant over extension will cause them to fail early.
Learnt my lesson years ago on a Nokia 9210i (stop that cursing there will you!!! someone had to buy them!) Smiles.
very intimidating but too scary for me. i would rather not break my $500 dollar phones just so i can see the screen go a couple more degrees more
just done it and its ace
slight idea change tho because its next to no use haveing it at 90 degree angle unless in car, not cutting away plastic compleatly makes it a little stiffer and will only be able to make the screen angle to 90 by choice so you shudnt break anything as you wont do it all the time. just a thought.
very nice mod.
this is going to be off topic though. " is there anyway we could tighten the hinge? mine is getting loose already.
Just a thought but isnt it alot easier to rest the back underside of the phone on a small object. this will tilt it forward and make the screen visible in the same way... You could use a small velcro patch to secure it to the said object which in turn could secure to the dashboard etc in the same manner. Alot less scary to do and you wont run the risk of damaging your phone.....
Pretty cool, but idk about messing w/ the structural integrity.
I always thought ESD was a myth. I've been working on computing hardware for almost a decade, and I do take the necessary precautions when working on new/mission critical equipment. But 90% of the time I am working on refitting relatively old workstations/servers where my boss has basically told me he doesn't really care if these items make it back into active service or not, so stuff like that I always go commando on, and I've never had a single piece of equipemnt go spontaniously DOA on me while handling it. (i.e. every single item of equipment I've retired due to DOA was reported as DOA before I touched it...)
Oh, and I have a mini tesla coil in my cube... j/k
Here is my tesla, got bored a couple weeks ago and made one, its like my fifth one.
tonychen said:
I guess some of you may interested to mod your kaiser screen to tilt almost 90 degree, then you can use it on your car without any holder.
Here's a guidance document i pull together.
Remember, do it only on your own risk.
Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who's daring enough to try this on the new Touch Pro 2?
While I'm charging my Diamond, I occasionally get electroshocks.
A few days ago, I experienced it for the first time, the shocks first increased in size exponentially until I just had to drop the phone.
I've just had the same experience again, but the shocks were strong from the first time now.
I'm not talking about some tickling tiny current that's flowing, it feels more like pure 230V going trough my fingers (yes, I know how that feels from experience ).
I know that's not possible as the Diamond charges on USB (5V), but still... I get shocks sometimes when I touch the metal sides.
Is anybody else having this?
Hmm , no and I would check the earth in your socket on the wall .
Yeah check the earth in the socket or extension you have your computer plugged into.
Also check that the computer actually uses an earth pin. If its a laptop its a super common problem because alot of them don't use earth pins!
Yeah, should've guessed that one... Of course my laptop doesn't have an earth.
Still, it shouldn't give me shocks like that, I except all metal parts on the outside to be completely isolated.
Twabi2 said:
Yeah, should've guessed that one... Of course my laptop doesn't have an earth.
Still, it shouldn't give me shocks like that, I except all metal parts on the outside to be completely isolated.
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Click to collapse
Its an age old complaint... The ground wire from the USB is tied to the ground of the phone, and so this is effectivly the 'earth' of the phone.
There are good arguments to say any metal on the outside should be grounded, and alos good arguments to say it should be completly isolated.
In the end it doesnt matter too much which way you go, charge will always build up, with the meterial between forming a diaelevtric.
Don't worry its not dangerous, it just bloody hurts
Excellent explanation. I wouldn't put it better.
HastaSSSS
LOL, Sorry I couldn't resist, & after I will chastise myself & delete my own post, but where is in the world are you guys that they call it the "earth"? Us yanks call it the ground wire & I was just curious as I've never heard the term "earth" used for this?
just my 2 cents..
earthing is a term used for the return elec current to be diffused. this is done by keeping a reference point as earth.. as for the ships, the current is grounded in its hull coz the mass of the hull is considered as a reference point known as earth
that way the body of the phone is considered as a reference due to the mass and the body is considered as earth for the phone
now the current flowing through the phone is not too much but the return current from the power socket or ur laptop is transfered to the body of the phone thats why u get the shocks. check and prevent this to avoid any damages to ur phone
Earth is the common term used here in Blighty. Electricity was developed in many parts of the world fairly recently (yeah I know it's been known about for thousands of year - hence the term developed) so our respective terms probably evolved from whatever was locally popular at the time...
UK & USA; "...two countries separated by a common language"?
p.s. You can tell how bored I am waiting for the Postie to bring my new phone...
AFAIK the term 'earth' comes from a long long way back when a coper wire was run to an iron anchor placed into the earth (mud, earth, soil, whatever you wanna call it!). There's an interesting way to make a radio using such an earth anchor, without any additional power - but its bloody quiet!
Usually the term 'Earth' is used to signify the lowest grounding potential you can find in a system - like the example given, the hull of a ship. Its usually used when you talk about electrical wiriring etc.
'Ground' is usually used in electronics to signify the lowest potential for a circuit. You can have multiple grounds at different potentials, such as when you combine analog and digital circuits with optocouplers.
Essentially they both mean the same thing, but its just convention over here. If you said Earth when talking about a digital electrical circuit you may get laughed at, and saying 'ground' you wouldn't.
But if you said 'is that TV grounded?' when talking about the wiring in your house it would seem normal, just as saying 'is that TV earthed?'.
So its not an exact science just like most words over here!
I got similar problem when using TyTN II. The shock occurs few times when charging on my laptop with USB cable. Since my ear got shock (not my hand), so, I feel the shock is come from the ear piece slot.
Oh... will the bullet actually pass though your body and hit the person you are protecting? I mean if its a typical 9mm and shoot at the chest from a minimum distance of 2m.
I am worried that my response will lead to seeing you on the darwin awards, but..
Almost certainly no, assuming center mass. But there are variables, the most important of which is the type of round; full metal jacket, hollow point variants, etc.
Try not to get dead.
do i dare suggest conducting practical experiments to verify this...preferably not on me...i could suggest a few names for our test subjects though...
i could suggest a few names for our test subjects though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
may i suggest Steve jobs?
I know two people who shot themselves, one personally, one via t'interweb.
The first one lives in Israel and was at a shooting range with her partner, with no barriers between them.
He fired and an empty hot case went down her neck, causing her to flinch and pull her own trigger, sending the bullet across her forehead slicing it open just under the hair line.
The second wondered when he was a teenager, if a thick book could protect him from a point blank pistol shot.
Rather than shooting the book away from himself, he held it infront of his chest.
Many hours of heart surgery later he lived to tell the tale.
9mm are prefered by the police because they don't tend to pass through their targets, especially if they're using hollow points (unavailable to legitimate armies due to the Geneva convention) as these are designed to mushroom on impact.
Out of my Ruger SR9 (4.5 inch barrel) a 9mm fmj will go through 2 Colorado Springs phone books (1000+ pages) and a high performance hollow point (love Gold Dots or Hydrashocks) go through 1 1/2 phone books at around 30 feet.
Hey there, i just recently bought an lg g6, and ive been rlly enjoying it. Recently i had to leave my phone in the glovebox of my car ( it was turned off) and the weather outside was 64c outside, and im guessing even hotter in my glovebox (my car was parked in the sun), so should i be worried about any damage to my phone, and can i keep putting it there because its the only place i can put it cus of where i work..
I don't think you have to worry. The internals of the phone itself can withstand high temperatures, with processor temperatures/battery creating a lot of extra heat, so that is factored in. As long as the screen, etc is not in direct sunlight, you shouldn't worry.
Ideally though you'd not want it to get too hot to preserve the life of the battery... but with it being "off", that may not effect anything.
An easy enough solution though would be to get to a sun visor and point the reflective side out. This will reduce cabin temperature and protect not only your electronics, but will keep your interior in good condition as well (especially if the rest of your car is tinted). Just buy a decently thick one. I use one with a nice matte on the other side. Once you get used to using one, it takes only a few seconds to remove/replace.
You can reverse it in winter to keep your car cabin from getting too cold as it will allow some extra heat in.
maruichan said:
I don't think you have to worry. The internals of the phone itself can withstand high temperatures, with processor temperatures/battery creating a lot of extra heat, so that is factored in. As long as the screen, etc is not in direct sunlight, you shouldn't worry.
Ideally though you'd not want it to get too hot to preserve the life of the battery... but with it being "off", that may not effect anything.
An easy enough solution though would be to get to a sun visor and point the reflective side out. This will reduce cabin temperature and protect not only your electronics, but will keep your interior in good condition as well (especially if the rest of your car is tinted). Just buy a decently thick one. I use one with a nice matte on the other side. Once you get used to using one, it takes only a few seconds to remove/replace.
You can reverse it in winter to keep your car cabin from getting too cold as it will allow some extra heat in.
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Yeah thank you i will definitely do that, i was a little worried about the battery and screen but it seems like i shouldnt be worried, thanks alot i appreciate it!
I would also be careful because people have reported with change of temperature the camera glass have cracked. Example is going from air conditioning into the heat or vice versa.
The day has finally arrived — Samsung has unveiled the Galaxy S9 and S9+. Apart from minor upgrades, the two might not appear to be much different from last year's S8 and S8+, but that's not necessarily a bad thing. One feature that hasn't changed is the Galaxy's IP68 water-resistance rating. That's a great score, but it begs the question — what does that number really mean?
First of all, if you don't know what the IEC 60529 is, don't worry — it's a standard put out by the National Electrical Manufacturers Association, which is basically a test with set rules and regulations. A device is then assigned an IP rating for resistance to dust and water in accordance to its performance on the test. To quote the standard itself:
— National Electrical Manufacturers Association said:
This standard describes a system for classifying the degrees of protection provided by enclosures of electrical equipment for two conditions: 1) the protection of persons against access to hazardous parts and protection of equipment against the ingress of solid foreign objects and 2) the ingress of water. The degree of protection against these two conditions is designated by an IP Code.
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While "IP Code" really stands for "International Protection Marking," most nowadays refer to it as "Ingress Protection." All that really means is how well protected a device is against dust and water.
Speaking of dust and water, those elements are not weighed together into one grade. In fact, the number assigned to a device — the one that appears after the "IP" prefix — are two individual ratings. The first number denotes how "dust-proof" the device is, or how well the device protects against dust and solid particles, while the second reflects its "waterproofing," or how well the device keeps water from entering and damaging the sensitive electronic parts inside.
Samsung's latest Galaxy devices both earned themselves a rating of IP68 in the IEC 60529 tests. While a very high score — higher than the 2017 line of iPhones' IP67 — these phones are not waterproof, just water resistant.
IP: The abbreviation of "Ingress Protection," the rating system for a device's dust- and water-resistance.
6: An IP rating's first number represents a device's dust protection rating. A "6," although smaller than the S9's second IP number, actually means the device is completely dustproof. Good on you, Samsung!
8: Water resistance is denoted by the second number of the rating. An "8" shows that the S9 devices can be fully submerged in water as deep as 1.5 meters for up to 30 minutes. For reference, the iPhone X, which scored a "7," can be submerged for 30 minutes at 1 meter deep.
So, what does this mean for you? If you accidentally drop your new phone in your toilet, get caught in the rain, or spill a tasty beverage on it, you shouldn't panic. However, you shouldn't push your luck — going swimming with an IP68-certified device isn't foolproof, and the chemicals you find in a swimming pool or the saltwater of the ocean might not mix well with your S9. Our advice? So just be careful.
You see, while the IP Rating claims a certain level of protection against water and dust, it doesn't take in account chemicals or particles that you might find dissolved in water. Saltwater and chlorine can hurt the finish of your S9, and even damage the rubber protection that gives your phone its IP68 rating. While it's certainly tempting, we'd recommend you not plunge underwater with your phone in-hand. It might be fine, but if it's not, you could be on your own.
You see, while the IP Rating claims a certain level of protection against water and dust, it doesn't take in account chemicals or particles that you might find dissolved in water. Saltwater and chlorine can hurt the finish of your S9, and even damage the rubber protection that gives your phone its IP68 rating. While it's certainly tempting, we'd recommend you not plunge underwater with your phone in-hand. It might be fine, but if it's not, you could be on your own.
It all comes down to your warranty coverage. While we don't know yet about the S9's policy, with the S8, Samsung includes a limited warranty that covers manufacturer defects for one year, battery issues for six months, among other things. However, soak your S8 to the point of damage? You've voided your warranty.
That changes if you opt-in to Samsung Premium Care, a monthly-subscription coverage that extends the boundaries of your warranty by leaps and bounds. If you take your S8 for a swim, the device will be completely covered, even if the components inside fry before you dry. You get up to three cases of accidental damage per 12 month period, though, so the fourth time you lose your Galaxy at the bottom of the pool, it's like you never had coverage to begin with.
In short, what you've heard about the S9 is mostly true — the phone stands up well against the elements. While spills, grime, and accidental submerges shouldn't be cause for concern, we'd still warn against diving deep with your S9. It doesn't matter if the phone is IP68 or IP67 — if water touches the wrong parts, you could be in trouble.
Quick question related to that. Can I take it in the shower or something?
Paradoxxx said:
Quick question related to that. Can I take it in the shower or something?
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Here's Samsung's official word on their IP68 rating and the Galaxy devices: http://www.samsung.com/au/pdf/IP68.pdf
Personally I won't ever put my device under any water at all. Sure, it's water resistant, but if you ever drop, or bump your device, that could be enough to put a TINY little micro leak in the water seal, allowing water into the device. And if that happens, bye bye device, bye bye warranty.
I've never understood people who take their phone into the shower to be honest.
the_scotsman said:
Here's Samsung's official word on their IP68 rating and the Galaxy devices: http://www.samsung.com/au/pdf/IP68.pdf
Personally I won't ever put my device under any water at all. Sure, it's water resistant, but if you ever drop, or bump your device, that could be enough to put a TINY little micro leak in the water seal, allowing water into the device. And if that happens, bye bye device, bye bye warranty.
I've never understood people who take their phone into the shower to be honest.
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It's be to be able to change songs in the shower. That's my only usage
Paradoxxx said:
It's be to be able to change songs in the shower. That's my only usage
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U can use in shower yes.
But maybe Touch dont work.
You have to remap your Volume Buttons (e.g. long press for next song)
Xperience Z said:
U can use in shower yes.
But maybe Touch dont work.
You have to remap your Volume Buttons (e.g. long press for next song)
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I have Bixby remapped to skip to next song. I wouldn't even turn on the screen probably aha. But whatever, it'll stay outside and that's fine as well
Paradoxxx said:
I have Bixby remapped to skip to next song. I wouldn't even turn on the screen probably aha. But whatever, it'll stay outside and that's fine as well
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You could also remap your volume button.
Long press or Double Press to Skip
And you can take it in the shower...no Problem.
Xperience Z said:
You could also remap your volume button.
Long press or Double Press to Skip
And you can take it in the shower...no Problem.
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Did you ever do take it there ?
Cause they mentioned that it should be still water, and there's quite a splash going in a shower
Every day. It's doesn't matter if its splashing water or still water.
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