Database Develop

Electroshocks

While I'm charging my Diamond, I occasionally get electroshocks.
A few days ago, I experienced it for the first time, the shocks first increased in size exponentially until I just had to drop the phone.
I've just had the same experience again, but the shocks were strong from the first time now.
I'm not talking about some tickling tiny current that's flowing, it feels more like pure 230V going trough my fingers (yes, I know how that feels from experience ).
I know that's not possible as the Diamond charges on USB (5V), but still... I get shocks sometimes when I touch the metal sides.
Is anybody else having this?

Hmm , no and I would check the earth in your socket on the wall .

Yeah check the earth in the socket or extension you have your computer plugged into.
Also check that the computer actually uses an earth pin. If its a laptop its a super common problem because alot of them don't use earth pins!

Yeah, should've guessed that one... Of course my laptop doesn't have an earth.
Still, it shouldn't give me shocks like that, I except all metal parts on the outside to be completely isolated.

Twabi2 said:
Yeah, should've guessed that one... Of course my laptop doesn't have an earth.
Still, it shouldn't give me shocks like that, I except all metal parts on the outside to be completely isolated.
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Click to collapse
Its an age old complaint... The ground wire from the USB is tied to the ground of the phone, and so this is effectivly the 'earth' of the phone.
There are good arguments to say any metal on the outside should be grounded, and alos good arguments to say it should be completly isolated.
In the end it doesnt matter too much which way you go, charge will always build up, with the meterial between forming a diaelevtric.
Don't worry its not dangerous, it just bloody hurts

Excellent explanation. I wouldn't put it better.
HastaSSSS

LOL, Sorry I couldn't resist, & after I will chastise myself & delete my own post, but where is in the world are you guys that they call it the "earth"? Us yanks call it the ground wire & I was just curious as I've never heard the term "earth" used for this?

just my 2 cents..
earthing is a term used for the return elec current to be diffused. this is done by keeping a reference point as earth.. as for the ships, the current is grounded in its hull coz the mass of the hull is considered as a reference point known as earth
that way the body of the phone is considered as a reference due to the mass and the body is considered as earth for the phone
now the current flowing through the phone is not too much but the return current from the power socket or ur laptop is transfered to the body of the phone thats why u get the shocks. check and prevent this to avoid any damages to ur phone

Earth is the common term used here in Blighty. Electricity was developed in many parts of the world fairly recently (yeah I know it's been known about for thousands of year - hence the term developed) so our respective terms probably evolved from whatever was locally popular at the time...
UK & USA; "...two countries separated by a common language"?
p.s. You can tell how bored I am waiting for the Postie to bring my new phone...

AFAIK the term 'earth' comes from a long long way back when a coper wire was run to an iron anchor placed into the earth (mud, earth, soil, whatever you wanna call it!). There's an interesting way to make a radio using such an earth anchor, without any additional power - but its bloody quiet!
Usually the term 'Earth' is used to signify the lowest grounding potential you can find in a system - like the example given, the hull of a ship. Its usually used when you talk about electrical wiriring etc.
'Ground' is usually used in electronics to signify the lowest potential for a circuit. You can have multiple grounds at different potentials, such as when you combine analog and digital circuits with optocouplers.
Essentially they both mean the same thing, but its just convention over here. If you said Earth when talking about a digital electrical circuit you may get laughed at, and saying 'ground' you wouldn't.
But if you said 'is that TV grounded?' when talking about the wiring in your house it would seem normal, just as saying 'is that TV earthed?'.
So its not an exact science just like most words over here!

I got similar problem when using TyTN II. The shock occurs few times when charging on my laptop with USB cable. Since my ear got shock (not my hand), so, I feel the shock is come from the ear piece slot.

Diamond Stopped vibrating

My Alltel Touch Diamond stopped vibrating. Since I did not get it from Alltel directly...they will not replace it even though it is only 3 months old. Contacted HTC as well as PCD and no help there. Is there anyway I can fix this myself?
TIA

Go to eBay and search for 'htc diamond vibrator'. There are around $45. I never use the ringer so not having vibrate mode is killing me too.

possiblility
the ebay "vibrators" for diamond are for the gsm versions, not the cdma. note that they are laid completely differently. here's a pic of cdma (ripped from someone who knows)
ftp://ppcgeeks.com/Diamond/Users/snovvman/DSCF2199.JPG
now, in my case, kind of neat. if you open the case up that far (four screws on inside, that's all), you'll notice that the vibrator motor can be detached from mainboard relatively easy through the two pin (black/red) header. you can test the vibrator motor with like some AAA 1.5V battery or something. in my case it worked, so drats, that means that the driver could be blown.
however, i looked real closely, above the header are discrete components, like a tantalum capacitor (surface mount), super tiny, and something that didn't make sense--a cold solder blob over one land pad (but not the other, ... perhaps there was one at manufacture time and it fell out??)
anyways, htc apparently intended for either an inductor or a short (0 ohm resistor) at that land pattern. sometimes they cheat and just manufacture it as with a blob of solder. in this case part of the blob fell out. hence, no connection to the vibrator motor header.
i put blob in and i was in business.
note that these are super tiny. DO NOT ATTEMPT without sufficient tools (magnifying jig, really fine tip soldering iron)
...
OF COURSE before you do ANY of this, try a hard reset first.

Thanks! I almost wasted $45.

pictures
Could you take some pictures of the areas you soldered? Im also trying to fix mine.
Also, to test the vibrator, did you just take two wires and put it on each end?

Sorry for bringing back to life this old threat but this appear to be a very common issue among diam500 owners and nobody knew what to do apart from swap it (if it still in warranty which by 3rd quarter 2010 i really doubt someone still has it)
i googled around lots of forums and this was the only one with a real answer surprisingly this was also the one with the less replies... i confirm what chnhnm said THERE IS A 0 OHM RESISTOR THAT FELL OFF(perhaps caused by the vibration itself and real poor quality soldering from htc in this specific resistor) when i gutted my diamond the resistor was still there sticked to the vibrating motor connector in the mainboard i tested it with a multimeter and confirmed it is a "0 ohm one" real tiny color black)
once again as chnhnm said i just put blob in and it worked like a charm
so there is a relatively easy fix here (if u have the tools and some soldering skills) i strongly recommend you to try this as your last resort
will post some pics later

im uploading a picture of it before i applied the blob (the resistor is missing) this is the best one i could get i hope u cant see it

elamodelmerol said:
im uploading a picture of it before i applied the blob (the resistor is missing) this is the best one i could get i hope u cant see it
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Thank you for this! I will do this soon when I get a soldering iron.

Ok, I tried doing this, but it is hard to solder it. Everytime I try to put the blob there, the solder attaches to the iron and doesn't stick to the connection on the board.
Can I get some help on how to keep it on the connection instead of melting and sticking to my iron?

sorry for the late reply...
well i don't really know how to solder either but i have learnt something by just giving it a try(and a few youtube videos xD) ...this is how i did it.
first off make sure the surface is clean wipe it if needed with acetone(don't flood the board) and a cotton swab (that will remove the grease and dirt it may have)
be careful not to apply to much solder on the iron tip...just use a little bit more almost nothing than the needed to coat the tip...
do not overheat ur iron that will cause the metal to oxidize quicker (oxide prevent the metals from joining) unplug the iron as soon as it is hot enough to melt the solder
use some soldering flux be careful not to add too much just enough to cover that tiny area (u can use a needle) this cleans even more the area and prevents the metal oxidation
now u just need a steady hand and eagle like vision
even after following this directions i still find it hard to achieve for a noob like me maybe i just got lucky...xD
if you are out of luck maybe u can buy one of this conductive ink pens and that way u just have to draw fine line or should i say a dot. Or u can try using a pencil (graphite is a relative good conductor) but that didn't work for me...
Good Luck Mate

How hard is it to change buttons...

I have always preferred the look of the Euro HD2 with the all white keys as compared to the white/red/green keys on the T-MoUS. I saw on ebay you can buy the replacement keys the other day and am pondering changing my T-Mo keys for the Euro version.
Has anyone done this? Is it a huge process or somewhat simple if you are mechanically inclined? I am a machinist by trade, and know a thing or two about electronics repair as well, and always done my own repairs whether it be a DVD player that broke, or my cars. I just dont want to take my HD2 apart only to find out I have to also replace a circuit board or some kind of "snap together" crap because it inevitably breaks upon cracking open the phone...

Here is a link at the bottom that will be pretty self explainatory. In a word - DON'T ! If you are doing it just to change the color of the keys the risk of really messing up something when you open it and put it back together is pretty high. Nick or break one of those flexi cables and its all over - try to find a replacement part. The risk of over driving one of those screws and stripping the plastic threads is pretty high if you don't have a light touch. If your phone is still under warranty you break the liquid/tamper seal over one of those torx screws and it won't be unless you can find a replacement (they are available though some Chinese/Hong Kong sources).
I've done cable/screen/case replacements on my TYTN's and TILTs and stopped at a Fuze. The Tilts and TYTN's were a piece of cake - plenty of room within the case and the connectors were pretty sturdy. You have to be pretty careful not to manhandle anything keep a static loop on you wrist thats grounded to guard against static. Most of the newer phones that have laminated screens you have to heat them (Fuze) just to remove the screen/keyboards from the case. Fortunately the HD2 doesn't appear to have that problem. On Mike Channon's website he doesn't have the official HTC disassembly guide yet and I wouldn't do anything until thats posted. It will outline how to do everything and how to put it back together. The guide is pretty good but it doesn't show the key removal or a close up phone of how they are attached. With the HD2 I probably would touch mine (still under warranty/insurance) unless it was not covered and I had to replace a component that was necessary for the phone to function.
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&usg=ALkJrhg7dfSa9LTNNfVavSyyQcCeWFtAHg

stim141 said:
Here is a link at the bottom that will be pretty self explainatory. In a word - DON'T ! If you are doing it just to change the color of the keys the risk of really messing up something when you open it and put it back together is pretty high. Nick or break one of those flexi cables and its all over - try to find a replacement part. The risk of over driving one of those screws and stripping the plastic threads is pretty high if you don't have a light touch. If your phone is still under warranty you break the liquid/tamper seal over one of those torx screws and it won't be unless you can find a replacement (they are available though some Chinese/Hong Kong sources).
I've done cable/screen/case replacements on my TYTN's and TILTs and stopped at a Fuze. The Tilts and TYTN's were a piece of cake - plenty of room within the case and the connectors were pretty sturdy. You have to be pretty careful not to manhandle anything keep a static loop on you wrist thats grounded to guard against static. Most of the newer phones that have laminated screens you have to heat them (Fuze) just to remove the screen/keyboards from the case. Fortunately the HD2 doesn't appear to have that problem. On Mike Channon's website he doesn't have the official HTC disassembly guide yet and I wouldn't do anything until thats posted. It will outline how to do everything and how to put it back together. The guide is pretty good but it doesn't show the key removal or a close up phone of how they are attached. With the HD2 I probably would touch mine (still under warranty/insurance) unless it was not covered and I had to replace a component that was necessary for the phone to function.
http://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?hl=en&ie=UTF-8&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/htc_hd2/&rurl=translate.google.co.uk&usg=ALkJrhg7dfSa9LTNNfVavSyyQcCeWFtAHg
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Thanks for the link! You make some good points though I have the skills necessary. After looking at the pics it seems pretty straight forward. Similar to other devices Ive taken apart. I can skip about half of it because Im not completely disassembling, just need access to the buttons. If I go for it I will post up the step by step as well, minus all the extra crap.

donkeypunch85 said:
Thanks for the link! You make some good points though I have the skills necessary. After looking at the pics it seems pretty straight forward. Similar to other devices Ive taken apart. I can skip about half of it because Im not completely disassembling, just need access to the buttons. If I go for it I will post up the step by step as well, minus all the extra crap.
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Click to collapse
It just seems a big hassle just to change a few buttons, thats just my two cents. But if you really want those white buttons, knock yourself out man!

DIY GUIDE TO REPLACING THE 19$ BROKEN GLASS on the galaxy note

hi folks. i managed to replace my galaxy note front glass with a new one i got from ebay for 19$ and i want to make a step by step guide on how it can be done.
i did it using common tools and a s load of pacience and attention.
the tools i used are: heat gun with hi and low settings, exacto knife set,small phillips and flat screwdrivers, goo gone, and optional a screen protector.
first take the phone apart as it's describet in countless of threads and youtube videos. you should end up with the screen assembly shown in the first picture.
now we have to separate the glassscreen from the frame it sits on. for this we fire up the heat gun.
a few words about using the heat gun.
-my gun had 2 settings: low and high. during all this process i used it on low.
-don't put the gun directly and/or close to the thinn plastic wires that hold the two connectors.
- dont hold the gun in the same place more than 3 seconds, instead swipe the gun around the spot and the screen like u would do with a paint brush when painting.
- dont hold the gun too close, that is closer than 3 inch
-concentrate on the spot u working at but try to heat up the whole screen assembly, as it has to give away from all the points kind of at the same time, and not just the point u working at.
- dont overheat the screen as this will damage the amoled. thats how i got the two yellow spots on my screen. first one by accident and second one intentionaly to see if indeed the overheating is what caused it.
A very good rule for this is dont heat the phone more than you can bear to touch it cause afterall you have to hold the phone while working on it...
the way i did it is :
-i heated up the whole screen assembly, back and front, for a minute or two
- than i started to stick the tip of the exacto knife between the glass and the metal edge that sorrounds it. i started from the upper right corner, the side where the front camera is. see photo 2.
the goal is to unstick the glass from the frame. in photo 3 the frame and the screen is shown without the upper glass. this photo was taken after i finished everything, thats why the screen can be seen inside the frame. but i posted it to show the black sticky tape that its used to hold the glass to the frame. i think is the same kind of sticky tape thats used in all the touchphones including iphone to hold the front glass to the rest of the phone. in photo 4 i unsticked some of the tape to show it better. this tape is the main thing that holds the the glass to the frame. the other thing that hold the screen to the frame is some sticky glue on the back of the screen. but this is much softer and thiner glue. this is the reason why i say to heat up the whole screen assemby including the backside, to make it easyer to unstuck the glass and scren thats glued to it.
- once you get a bit of a foothold in the upper corner between and the glassand the frame you continue the folowing procedure again and again until the glass and screen detaches from the frame:
-every 2 minutes or so , when i feel the asemby cooled down, i'd heat up the whole assembly for 5 seconds or so, than concentrate on the spot i worked on for another 5 seconds, than move/push the exacto knife a bit. dont force it. after a while youl get a feel of it. if the exacto knife happend to be out, i would heat up the blade after heating up everything else, and than put the blade in.
prevent the freed parts from sticking back to the frame by using the rest of the exacto knife blades as shims.
once it detaches it should look like photo 5- the glass glued to the screen.
- now we have to detach or unglue the glass from the screen.
procedure is the same: start somewhere, heat, put knife in, etc... i used a second knife as shim folowing the first knife, and after avery couple moves i would get the knife out and wipe off the epoxy glue. heat the blade and put it back in.
when finished you should have something like photo 6 and 7: free screen covered in glue epoxy residue.
- now we have to get rid of the glue residue. i took the bulk of it usinga flat exacto knife blades like the one in photo 8 and 10. just warm the place a bit with the air gun and scrape it off with the blade. to clean what was left i used a bit of goo gone on a pice of cloth or napkin photo 9.
cleaned screen can be seen in photo 11 - sadly out of focus.
if u are like me and r impatient to test the screen you can just connect with just the side connector like in photo 12 and 13. the upper connector is for the s pen digitizer. side connector is for the screen and touch digitizer.
now all that's left is to put the phone back together except leave the new glass for last.
-first thing is to put the screen(without the glass) back on the frame. try to center it just right, so that ther's a little bit of space between the sides of the screen and the frame.
at this point all that will hold the screen to the frameis the thin layer of glue on the back of the screen. after centering and lowering the screen in the frame procede to put the phone back together folowing in reverse order the same steps used to disasambe it. when finished you should end up with the whole functioning phone except the front glass -as seen in photo 14.
now you can chose to trim and put a screen protector on the scree so as to fill the empty space between the screen and the glass - the space where the glue was, or you can just leave it empty. you can put a screen protector anytime after by removing the glass. which should be much easier to remove now that its held in place only by the blach sticky tape on the edges. just use some suction cap to remove it, starting at an age, and remove it like fliping a page. see photo 16. i used the note for 2 weeks without the screen protector in the empty space and it worked without a problem onlt thing was that when i pushed hard the glass would touch the screen and leave a bit of dirt in that place. thats why i decided to put the screen protector to fill the void. in photo 15 i raised the screen protector to make it visible in the photo.
if you are like me and worry that somehow the glass might fall off the phone you can always get a hard plastic case for the phone, like the one in the pics. it's made of 2 parts. one goes on the back one on the front and they snap togeter around the phone. this will hold the glass in place no matter what while it will also protect the phone.the case is in photos 17 and 18. i got this one of ebay for 8$ and free shipping.
the last thing to be done is:
for some reaseon the touch screen became much more sensitive after removing the glue so you need to lover the touch sensitivity. for this get the touchscreentune app from the market. it works with galaxy note and galaxy s2. put the sensitivity from the recomended 25 to 50.
the best thing about this procedure is that i dont have to worry about the f ing glass anymore. if it brakes again i'l just order another one and in under 2 minutes i can replace it. all i have to do is get the phone case off, put a suction cap on , , remove the old glass , and put the new glass. that's it.
because it takes 4 to 8 hours i would recommend the process to be done in 3-4 sessions as people would get tired after 2 hours of work and tend to lose focus, attention, patience and start to push to get it faster done, and that's when bad stuff happens like yellow spot burn on the screen or small scratches. another thing about scratches, even if u manage to scrach the screen dont worry to much as the scratches are almost invisible when the screen turns on. youl see what i mean ....
i do have one question: WHY DID SAMSUNG DECIDE TO GLUE THE SCREEN TO THE GLASS INSTEAD OF HAVING THEM SEPARATE LIKE ALL THE OTHER TOUCHPHONES?

I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.

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anonymous572 said:
I do the same for Galaxy S. I removed broken pieces of glass from device using guitar pick and carefully glued a new glass on each side. 9$ (free delivery) on ebay.
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what kind of glue did you use? where did u get the glue from? how did u do it?
i didnt glue the glass back to the screen. i just put the glass on the frame. to fill the void where the glue was i trimed a regular screen protector and put it inbetween the glass and the screen. but it works same without it.

Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*

pboesboes said:
Very interesting, I didn't think it was possible because the glass is glued to the SAMOLED panel. I'm very glad that I am wrong.
As much as I hate to think about it, a guide like that would probably come in handy for many of us at some point.
*knocks on wood*
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Nothing is impossible with the right tool and know-how . The glue could probably be uncured with a heat gun, just like ipad. The challenge is not damage the panel and make sure it is dust free after put back the replacement.
It is said impossible because of the difficulty involved. If you can't manage to install a screen protector with perfect alignment and zero dust spike, this task is not for you.
@drevilatwork Thank you for writing this step by step guide!

I dropped my phone last night and it landed face down, cracking the glass.
I'm so upset, but I don't think I have the skills or the tools to do this job myself. I am relieved to learn that the glass can be replaced, but do you know whether the Samsung agents are likely to be able to do this?

they probably wont do it. but you can try showing this thread to some technician or phone repair shop and they might do it for you. they also might charge you a lot to the point where it might be more convenient to just buy a new 260$ screen.

looks scary dude

all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...

Its worth a try, since screen replacement costs 230 euros.

kawgirlval69 said:
all im going to say is good luck separating the 2 screens without breaking the lcd or scratching the crap out of it ... this is a 90% epic fail method but thumbs up to the few that may succeed or dont mind their screen looking like its been belt sanded...
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actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.

Why different prices for all the same lenses in this shop ?

drevilatwork said:
actually .. the funny thing is that even if u manage to screch the screen and / or leave dirt behind it doesn't show while the phone is on. it might show when is off but not when is on. i was suprised about that too. and secondly, having to do it again knowing what i know now i would do it without leaving a mark. and in the end is certenly worth a shot before ordering the 260$ screen assembly. the special thing that it requires is pacience and attention.
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as i said good luck with it and hope you make some money doing it..... ive successfully done the same thing myself but other than it will never look good like a factory screen (not even close), the amount of time it takes to make it look anywhere near acceptable (not like a 10 dollar repair) is big and that makes the repair not really worthwhile doing it for anyone but yourself and even then who spends 700-800 dollars on something and does a repair that makes it look cheap... then theres the whole ordeal of the membrane youre taking the adhesive off of along with the HUGE chance of damaging it.. it is placed with precision and adhered for a reason along with being dust and scratch free... this is a repair that just wont last because things will start functioning improperly for multiple reasons...
im not knocking you or anyone who tries this..im just trying to emphasize the dangers, downfalls and the probability of it being a legit solid repair. also the resale value when the next greatest thing comes along... just beware....

Hmmmm
Well chaps I hate to disagree here, but after speaking to the technical bods at Samsung it appears that the OLED is NOT glued to the glass, but the glass is laminated and bonded in, much like a car windscreen. My screen got broken the other day and I have read the 2 posts on XDA regarding this. Now if you go and have a look at the pics of the other post
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1487716
you can clearly see the OLED, although broken, seperated from the glass with no sign of any glue. The reason it broke is that upon heating the glass you will melt the glue, which will then stick to the edges of the OLED and if you pry it at the wrong place/time/too hard/whatever you will break the OLED as it is glued to the bezel itself. So when my glass arrives I am going to attempt to remove the glass using fishing line and pulling it between the glass and the bezel and OLED to release it, the same way as I used to remove car windscreens, and post the results here. I have also been told that the reason for the sticky "epoxy" mess that you encountered in this postis from melting the plastic on the back of the glass (which is the lamination!) by using too much heat.....I mean come on, a heat gun is a bit excessive!! Prying the screen out a bit at a time might work, but will surely end in tears, where as cutting the cold adhesive with a fine nylon cable, which wont scratch the OLED, might just work. I'll keep you posted on my results.

Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.

pboesboes said:
Just throwing an idea out there: maybe the adhesive would be easier to defeat when it's really cold, rather than really hot. I know a lot of adhesives become quite brittle when you put them in the freezer, superglue and epoxy for example. And the electronics/plastics of the display could be relatively fine with the low temps.
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this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee

kawgirlval69 said:
this is not one of them...i can guarantee this 100%
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What do you mean? One of what?
learn how a digitizer is made then you might see the light, and not just the light of white trash repair and failure...
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I know how a digitizer is made.
ive explained it in great detail many times... and btw just because im a girl doesnt mean what im saying is wrong... 20+ years in the industry gives me sort of a clue as to what im saying..
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I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
im trying to help people avoid a long drawn out disaster and to waste $20(which is NOT gorilla glass) plus all of the other things they buy to try to make this a success which will never happen...
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The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
and fyi freezers, superglue and epoxys are big no no's...they are not used by any factory so there is another myth busted... they will just add to the destruction... 100% guarantee
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I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.

pboesboes said:
What do you mean? One of what?
I know how a digitizer is made.
I had no idea you were a girl and I don't see why that matters. Experience is the industry is of course relevant, if your particular field in the industry was related to repairs. But I don't know if it is?
The glass on the Note is Gorilla glass: http://www.corninggorillaglass.com/products-with-gorilla/full-products-list
I didn't say factories use superglue or epoxy, or freezers for that matter. But the fact that factories don't use them doesn't mean it can't work for DIY repairs. Low temperature brittleness isn't exclusive to epoxy or superglue. Many, many glues (and other materials) have that property.
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i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION...
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep

kawgirlval69 said:
i mean exactly what i wrote... as per your idea... this wasnt one that would work... my god man do i have to spell everything out for you???
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The sentence made no sense considering what it was replying to. Not my fault you were unclear/ambiguous.
obviously you dont know how a digitizer is made or you wouldnt have spouted the crap you have... bottom line
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Ok?
the girl part..well some dont think women know anything..its a culture thing.. but as for you not knowing if my particular field in the industry was related to repairs my god ive only said it multiple times in multiple posts... but since you dont like to read i'll say it again..20+ years board level factory trained.. motorola, audiovox, nokia, samsung... and this is a samsung forum so i think i have my tech qualifications covered here... again READING IS GOOD... work on that...
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Reading is very good, but you can't assume everyone in a public forum has read every single post of yours and remembers every detail. What isn't helping is the lack of proper punctuation and formatting which make your posts unpleasant to read.
again you just dont read or have horrible comprehension because i never said the notes screen wasnt gorilla glass i said the $19 one wasnt... seriously every time you type something you dig yourself a deeper hole...
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Replacement screens are generally OEM parts.
It might appear I'm in a hole, but that's only because I live in Holland and am below sea level. I assure you I haven't done any digging.
your superglue and epoxy blather just shows you dont have a clue and dont read... really they dont have any place in the screen/lcd part of diy.. its just trouble looking for a place to happen... now if the plastic housing needs repaired maybe but still not a top ten choice... if you had a clue you would know the proper adhesive to use... and its easily found... you are just too much...
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I wasn't suggesting to use superglue or epoxy, read it again.
seriously...just give it a rest... i wasnt bashing on you and have said it ive also said all im trying to do is help people not make a bad decision... and THIS IS A BAD DECISION
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I get that, and appreciate your concern. However, you should understand that some people like to try things even when the chance of success is not very high. You seem to be one of us in that regard (you attempted repairs yourself too, right?), so I don't see why it upsets you so much.
you want me to play nice (which i really am..most other forums here would have totally lowered the boom on you for spouting crap... ive been really nice.. to keep it that way just go post somewhere where you can be productive... here youre not... im sure you have some great ideas but nothing you have said in this thread is remotely good.. sorry but it is what it is...
beep beep
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I don't care if you play nice or not. I appreciate honesty. Now for some honesty in return: you're not helping in this thread.
All you do is say people's ideas are stupid without giving arguments that aren't arguments from authority. And I would very much appreciate it if you would stop misrepresenting my posts (intentional or not).

Question Dropped/broken screen? Testing/options?

Greetings,
Dropped my phone a full foot. Now the screen flickers green. I'm guessing the screen is broken. Any way to test that other than replacing it?
How do screen replacements go with this device? I'm pretty handy myself and might even attempt it if I could confirm it's the screen that's broken. I've done my own screen replacements before, but it's been some time.
Any chance the screen ribbon cable could be loose? There is no visible damage.
Thanks.
PS: of course, I have no insurance/protection. Oii.

Don't feel too bad, one time I dropped a pro cam on a ESD padded work bench top from about 6 inches and did more damage to that $7G cam than your smartphone retails for
$hit happens even in controlled environments... get a good case moving forward.
It could be a loose connector.
Or a fractured solder joint. The BGA chipsets don't like it when the mobo flexes.
You could replace the display only to learn it was actually a mobo failure. I lean more towards a mobo failure if there's no visible damage to the display.
Pull the cover and inspect it... an easy fix is always a great fix.

blackhawk said:
...Or a fractured solder joint. The BGA chipsets don't like it when the mobo flexes.
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Oii... Thanks for this thought; I was afraid of something like this.
Makes me wonder if metal/glass phones hold up better?

ToryEarly said:
Oii... Thanks for this thought; I was afraid of something like this.
Makes me wonder if metal/glass phones hold up better?
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May not be as bad as it seems...
On my Note 10+'s I use the Zizo Bolt case. Without it my first one would be history by now, if it doesn't corner hit on a drop it face plants. I've dropped it close to a dozen times from 1-4 feet onto concrete with zero damage. I don't like handling it without a case as it's a slippery fish
A good case reduces/lengthens the G loading spike making impacts survivable as well as protecting the exterior.
A 2 layer design like the Bolt provides excellent drop protection. It's important that the out shell or whatever holds the case together doesn't come loose on impact...
For those memorable flying end over end multiple impact events. Even with a small drop though I inspect for damage.

I'm actually in a similar situation. Dropped my phone from about 1 or 2 feet and I have the green screen flickering as well. The phone works. I can get call and talk via headphones. But my question that I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way to put the phone into file transfer mode from a connected computer since I can't do it from the phone.

GrandAdmiral said:
I'm actually in a similar situation. Dropped my phone from about 1 or 2 feet and I have the green screen flickering as well. The phone works. I can get call and talk via headphones. But my question that I'm trying to figure out is if there is a way to put the phone into file transfer mode from a connected computer since I can't do it from the phone.
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Developer options>usb settings.
You need to load the driver on the PC maybe too.

blackhawk said:
Developer options>usb settings.
You need to load the driver on the PC maybe too.
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That's not the issue (already rooted). The screen is non-responsive.

GrandAdmiral said:
That's not the issue (already rooted). The screen is non-responsive.
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Uh-oh. If it was working before the plunge you likely either had a connector dislodge or suffer a mobo failure from the impact.

It's happened to me twice both from barely 1 feet. The screen itself was not cracked. Ifixit luckily submitted it as a manufacturers defect since the screen wasn't broken. The first time they were nice enough to not wipe my phone. The second time they did wipe my phone without telling me. Something about their policy uh.
Ended up going with the poetic revolution case. And it's handled a 2ft drop without issue. Had the Spigen tough amor prior.
They said just replacing the screen resolved the issue.

Sorry to hear this OP.
$hit does happen.
I was using an old htc 10 for about 4 years, I finally upgraded to the Pixel 5 on release day.
About a month late, on my birthday I had it on my laptop and it drops flat faced down on the screen.
by some act of God I actually had a glass screen protector on it and had no damage!
I now don't use a scren protector, but oh well.
Somehow the back glass camera is cracked though, even though it wasn't ever dropped after this..
I think I'll look into the 5a instead of fixing it. It's not much more.

andybones said:
Sorry to hear this OP.
$hit does happen.
I was using an old htc 10 for about 4 years, I finally upgraded to the Pixel 5 on release day.
About a month late, on my birthday I had it on my laptop and it drops flat faced down on the screen.
by some act of God I actually had a glass screen protector on it and had no damage!
I now don't use a scren protector, but oh well.
Somehow the back glass camera is cracked though, even though it wasn't ever dropped after this..
I think I'll look into the 5a instead of fixing it. It's not much more.
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The screen protector will transmit a lot of the G loading directly to the phone. Something is going to absorb that energy one way or another. Not always obvious either.
Ideally if you have a good case with raised display guards it will soak up enough of the energy so that nothing is stressed to the breaking point.
Mobos and cams are intolerant of high G loading and flexing. A monetary G spike of 2000Gs* can be generated by a fall from bench height to a hard floor. Hard materials absorb little energy unless they bend or break; they can readily conduct it though to internal assemblies... or the other side of the phone.
*how to destroy an IC by dropping it on the floor.

blackhawk said:
*how to destroy an IC by dropping it on the floor.
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So you're saying I should probably be really gentle with these ceramic TD8749s and MD8755s then?

V0latyle said:
So you're saying I should probably be really gentle with these ceramic TD8749s and MD8755s then?
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If they land on a hard floor on the body rather than leads they can pull enormous G's. As I got more experienced I was more careful not to drop IC's and to use ESD protocols with the more sensitive chips.
There are a couple of issues with dropped phones The internal bonds to the chip can be broken. Even more fragile is the mobo's solder flowed on components especially the BGA chipsets. No way to inspect those for damage. Internal mobo traces may also be opened. With bent frames and broken glass the odds the mobo or display will be damage increases.
Some of the cams have moving parts as well as their sensor's mounting points. More recently that became more of a concern to me as they aren't cheap and a pain to replace.
If the manufacturer uses lead free solder it's a death wish for the device. No lead solder is much more brittle and has poor flow characteristics making the bond is less secure.
Cell phones are exempt from the lead ban but who knows if they use it? No lead solder becomes even more brittle in cold temperatures. Conformal coating is also needed for fine pitch traces to prevent silver dendrites for forming with the no lead solder over time.

blackhawk said:
If they land on a hard floor on the body rather than leads they can pull enormous G's. As I got more experienced I was more careful not to drop IC's and to use ESD protocols with the more sensitive chips.
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I was being sarcastic can't be too careful with 50 year old IC's

V0latyle said:
I was being sarcastic can't be too careful with 50 year old IC's
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Didn't recognize the numbers. LM3914, I still be careful with that cool IC