Related
I guess some of you may interested to mod your kaiser screen to tilt almost 90 degree, then you can use it on your car without any holder.
Here's a guidance document i pull together.
Remember, do it only on your own risk.
Enjoy!
Too scary for my taste.
Thanks! That's looks a little intimidating.
So basically is the only reason it tilts more is because the two plastic pieces are cut? What would happen if those two pieces were cut totally?
Thanks again.
A prediction...
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
nice..
i was thinking of something along the same thoughts, as it tilts, why have a holder!! just drive safe (as always)
exept, im still waiting for mine..
Wow! Nice Hardware mod tonychen! Just posting to register my shock and awe! Great writeup too!
@trick420: As can be seen, like Hermes, most sensitive electronics components are in a metal Faraday cage so this isn't as dangerous as it looks from an electronic standpoint. It's always a good idea to use a grounding strap however.
All those plastic tabs are gonna be a real bear to work with though. The TyTN only had a few but the Kaiser appears to be riddled with them.
trick420 said:
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm pretty sure everyone knows what electro-static discharge is.
so there are two bits of plastic going around the hinges that are stopping the display from tilting fully? like a tendon or do these bits of plastic go up against something to stop motion?
Yes you are right!
The ESD strap i guess is not available to most people except hardware engineers. The simplest way to discharge the static electricity is to wet your hands with a wet towel.
trick420 said:
Very cool mod, but I predict a large number of bricks on this one...
As a hardware design engineer professionally, I would have to recommend against this mod unless you are a technician and have access to the facilities.
If you are dead set on doing this mod, please take the time to prepare your environment - at the minimum, get an ESD strap and make sure you're properly grounded. Ideally, a strap and a mat are called for.
This is an ESD nightmare waiting to happen. Doing this on your kitchen table or coffee table - especially at this time of year, is literally Russian Roulette as to whether you will discharge 30K volts or so into the PCB and totally brick the device.
As a rule of thumb, if you don't know what ESD is, you probably shouldn't even consider this mod, or any other that involves opening up the device and exposing the PCB.
Just my 2 cents. Caveat Emptor, etc. etc.
Regards,
Jeff
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The plastic needs to be cut as it stop the two metal blocks to tilt up more. If you cut it totally, you still get the same result, so i don't see to much reason for doing that.
juiceppc said:
Thanks! That's looks a little intimidating.
So basically is the only reason it tilts more is because the two plastic pieces are cut? What would happen if those two pieces were cut totally?
Thanks again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Uploaded the guide to a mirror:
http://rapidshare.com/files/73519908/Kaiser_Screen_Mod.pdf
This is a great GUIDE!!!!
Thanks Tonychen.
Nadavi.
Not to be a killjoy but people should be aware that the plastic strips are there to prevent over extension of the thin ribbon cables connecting the display to the body.
You may not actually part these immediately but constant over extension will cause them to fail early.
Learnt my lesson years ago on a Nokia 9210i (stop that cursing there will you!!! someone had to buy them!) Smiles.
very intimidating but too scary for me. i would rather not break my $500 dollar phones just so i can see the screen go a couple more degrees more
just done it and its ace
slight idea change tho because its next to no use haveing it at 90 degree angle unless in car, not cutting away plastic compleatly makes it a little stiffer and will only be able to make the screen angle to 90 by choice so you shudnt break anything as you wont do it all the time. just a thought.
very nice mod.
this is going to be off topic though. " is there anyway we could tighten the hinge? mine is getting loose already.
Just a thought but isnt it alot easier to rest the back underside of the phone on a small object. this will tilt it forward and make the screen visible in the same way... You could use a small velcro patch to secure it to the said object which in turn could secure to the dashboard etc in the same manner. Alot less scary to do and you wont run the risk of damaging your phone.....
Pretty cool, but idk about messing w/ the structural integrity.
I always thought ESD was a myth. I've been working on computing hardware for almost a decade, and I do take the necessary precautions when working on new/mission critical equipment. But 90% of the time I am working on refitting relatively old workstations/servers where my boss has basically told me he doesn't really care if these items make it back into active service or not, so stuff like that I always go commando on, and I've never had a single piece of equipemnt go spontaniously DOA on me while handling it. (i.e. every single item of equipment I've retired due to DOA was reported as DOA before I touched it...)
Oh, and I have a mini tesla coil in my cube... j/k
Here is my tesla, got bored a couple weeks ago and made one, its like my fifth one.
tonychen said:
I guess some of you may interested to mod your kaiser screen to tilt almost 90 degree, then you can use it on your car without any holder.
Here's a guidance document i pull together.
Remember, do it only on your own risk.
Enjoy!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Who's daring enough to try this on the new Touch Pro 2?
So yesterday at work I was on the pooper and somehow managed to drop my phone right between my legs... not sure how.
Anyway, I pulled it out of the water almost instantly... damage is already done. Took the battery out and put the phone under a fan. I get home and I submerged it under rice.
This morning I turn it on - everything works. I'm so excited... Nexus One bootscreen.... bam, my rooted baby. Uh oh.. wtf... yeah, the touchscreen doesn't work. . I keep getting android process is not responding blah blah
My question is, is it worth it to try to maybe reflash to another rom to see if I can get the touchscreen working? Or should I Just buy a new one off ebay?
so sad...so gross...
Theres probably corrosion on the connector for the touchscreen to the "main board" (only board) if not in other places.
Disassembly is not that difficult (have to be slightly "handy") and you might be able to clean crud off the connections/legs of ic's.
Ideally for this job you would want a microscope (magnification of some sort), dental picks, alcohol, qtips, compressed air, and deoxit (and of course the torx driver)
Disassembly instructions:
http://androidforums.com/sprint-htc-hero/22036-sprint-htc-hero-disassembly-diy.html
If not too much water has gotten in you should be able to clean it. There is a chance you have corroded off traces on the board, or shorted some components...then youre kinda screwed (unless you know how to fix such things which im guessing you dont or you wouldnt be writing here).
But then you end up with a phone that you put near your mouth that you have no doubt "did a number on" which for me would be a little too gross to handle.
to answer your question...
flash a rom.. only takes a few minutes. Why not? you can not make it any worse!!!!! gross!!!!
and.. try to take it apart and see if you can clean it up some more...follow the posters above's advise.
nope its done for. i give it a week. your running electric current through it while there is still h2o on the contacts. that will speed up corrosion by 300% or something. you should have left it off for 1- 2 weeks for EVERYTHING to dry up. now its just a matter of time. enjoy it.
Avalaunchmods said:
nope its done for. i give it a week. your running electric current through it while there is still h2o on the contacts. that will speed up corrosion by 300% or something. you should have left it off for 1- 2 weeks for EVERYTHING to dry up. now its just a matter of time. enjoy it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're assuming it has been on.
I haven't even turned it on yet with the exception of 3 tests. I completely disassembled the phone today thanks to a youtube video. I cleaned every black circuit I could find... I pretty much cleaned everything. Yes, I found 3 pretty badly "burned" circuits... cleaned them all off. Turned the phone on as a test, and bam - everything worked, touch screen and all ... without flashing a rom.
Now the phone is sitting in about 4 pieces sitting under a fan.. and will stay there for a few days. The front piece + screen, the circuit board, the rear panel and the battery cover.
Thanks for your input, if it wouldn't have been for you I would immediately be using it. You could try to cheer up a bit, though.
--
edit
--
P.S - the phone didn't even have a trace of condensation on it. I'm not sure what else could be wet, but I will surely let it fully dry.
Buy a new one off ebay!! Man... everybody ain't able!! Wish I was ballin like you. lol
MrDanger said:
Buy a new one off ebay!! Man... everybody ain't able!! Wish I was ballin like you. lol
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Trust me when I tell you I'm not ballin'. I'm your average 30k joe who wishes he went to school.. I'm young enough to go, but can't afford it. The state gives me little to nothing.. and loaning through freddie/mac isn't worth it because your origination fees are more than your tuition for your first year in school.
I just have to have a phone - I live on my own, I don't have parents within 200 miles of me.. I have my boys, and my fiance - that's about it. Hell, I'm STILL paying for that ring.
Battery
Just for your information the battery has the same water sensor that the phone, happens. It could fool a Sprint rep if you preform wisely.
Nice job!
You really want to make sure you (VERY CAREFULLY) scrape off any rust or corrosion then apply something to stop the corrosion from occurring again (deoxit). Dental pick is best, exacto maybe (both used with a very light touch if youre not used to doing this). Dont slice any traces or wiring !! Dont get too aggressive, just get the big stuff off.
ALSO! Clean out your USB post and headphone jacks if they were submerged...same thing-rust (and poop)
Cheer it up a bit? Arent you happy you fixed your phone yourself? You're welcome!
agentofboom said:
Nice job!
You really want to make sure you (VERY CAREFULLY) scrape off any rust or corrosion then apply something to stop the corrosion from occurring again (deoxit). Dental pick is best, exacto maybe (both used with a very light touch if youre not used to doing this). Dont slice any traces or wiring !! Dont get too aggressive, just get the big stuff off.
ALSO! Clean out your USB post and headphone jacks if they were submerged...same thing-rust (and poop)
Cheer it up a bit? Arent you happy you fixed your phone yourself? You're welcome!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I definitely am happy! Thanks to you guys I did fix my phone - saved my $230. Thanks to the guy with the disassembly thread, too!
The person I was tellnig to cheer up was the guy who said it was fried - t minus 1 week or something.
I damaged my Capacitive buttons (flex circuit).
Can anyone recommend where to get a replacement part?
Lol. I did the same thing. Ladies and gentlemen please wait for the plastic tool to arrive in the mail before you start trying to disassemble your streak! I used a screwdriver and it cut through the flexible circuit card. Contemplated fixing it, but there`s five tracks on the circuit board!
I got a quote from an ebay seller in the UK for the capacitive buttons and plastic bezel. 90 pounds plust postage. What a rip off! I ended up buying a complete streak from ebay. It was locked to O2 and had the lcd bleeding problem, but perfect for me. Keep your eye out.
In the meantime, install softkeys from the market. It is a replacement home/settings/back button. A little inconvenient, but keeps you going while you bide your time on evilbay.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
printed circuits
My first streak also has a broken capacitive circuit board, didn't use this plastic tool for disassembling..
Now i use a old modified tooth brush
Was ready to ask a flexible board manufacturer what it would cost to reproduce such a circuit but for now i'm also using softkeys..
Maybe if we get 100 people together who needs one of those capacitive button circuits its worth asking a reproduction?
Thanks for the inputs. I got the key to work again after some fiddling. I'm just waiting for it to inevitably fail. I'll probably just get a new phone when that happens.
how do you get it broken? not that i wanted too, but it sound strange to me
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Pretty easy... First time pulling it apart, had not seen any videos of the process. Fixit. Com (OR IFIXIT?) wasn't that comprehensive. Of course I was overtired and of course used a small screwdriver instead of a plastic removal tool.
Excuses, excuses. The screwdriver ultimately was the wrong thing.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Does anyone know where i can buy the Streak front 4 buttons and volume rocker buttons ribbons ?
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/spares.html
I broke my capacitive button ribbon cable, anyone have any luck finding replacements? I'm going to try to repair it.
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Posted in error
is it available now . coz i searched all through the internet and couldnt find the home and back buttons strip .
DashingGentleman said:
Wheeew, just finished repairing my broken cap buttons. Most nerve-wracking soldering job ever.
I managed to tear through 5 contacts on the flex PCB when disassembling the Streak because I didn't bother to read the obvious warning about this on ifixit Also, I was taking the week-old device apart for no good reason, so I had it bloody coming, really. Anyway, even with a high-quality soldering iron and a stereomicroscope this repair was a massive pain, but it is doable.
I think it should be possible to repair even a completely broken ribbon - I would scrape off the plastic off the ends of the tracks and then glue the underside of both halves of the circuit in place (or tape together if not possible). Then you need to tin the tracks with solder - plenty of flux helps. After that it's the difficult matter of bridging the broken tracks with solder blobs or tiny pieces of wire while not shorting across them. Finally a layer of epoxy to secure it all. Not even worth attempting if you don't have a really good soldering iron and a microscope. Can't use too high a temperature or the plastic melts. I did the repair with the phone assembled fully except for the bottom panel, flex PCB attached to phone - the broken area was still accessible for me and this way reduces the risk of breaking contacts during reassembly.
Hope this helps someone!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think I may attempt this...$40usd for a new assembly is a bit high...
You can find the top/bottom parts on Ebay and on Lingosbox.com
I've purchased some spare parts for other phones on lingosbox - they are not genuine oem parts but for this price, it's a bargain for replacement parts that are rare/difficult to find. There's some delay(15-27days) but everything has arrived without any problem.
good to know someone found it cheaper
Hello everybody,
First of all, I've been following the XDA Forums for many years now, having owned and played around with quite a few different phones. I've always found the answers and solutions I need from the community so I just wanted to share my recent experiences with my GT-N7000.
Now while I'm certainly no expert in electronics, I do have a good understanding and hope this information could really help somebody else out.
The Problem
A few months ago, I managed to trip over the trailing USB cable, pulling the phone off the table with some considerable force. After this, it started with intermittent connection problems, combined with poor / slow charging. I would often find that it would report charging absolutely fine, whilst still draining the battery. Maybe worth mentioning, as far as I can recall, the phone never reported being charged / plugged in when it wasn't.
After some time, the problem worsened until I was unable to charge the phone at all. Also note that the USB connection to the computer also didn't work. I came across a very useful youtube video, to which I would like to thank the author.
OK, so I can't post links, but head over to youtube and enter "watch?v=pD9R-YUT69Q" at the end of the URL
I found the part that needed replacing for £12.95 on amazon, which arrived within a few days. I've put some helpful hints at the bottom with regards to actually dismantling the phone to avoid too much text up here
again, no links so go to UK Amazon and enter "/Samsung-GT-i9220-Charger-Connector-Replacement/dp/B009X6BGDM" at the end of the URL.
I found that this seemed to largely fix the problem, however, issues still remained with maintaining a consistent connection. These issues got worse over the following few weeks, until again, I could barley charge the phone. The steps to make it charge consisted of using a specific few chargers (any HTC or Samsung branded cable would work, *perhaps because of the extra 'clips' on the metal shield*), firmly push the connector into the phone, then apply a reasonable amount of pressure downwards when holding the phone flat and level. This would usually charge the phone, however, on occasion charging would randomly stop, or after unplugging at 100%, the battery level would instantly drop to around 70%.
Other odd anomalies such as entering recovery mode when plugging in with the phone switched off, or entering driving / docking mode while connecting the charger with the phone switched on occurred too.
* Complete speculation
The Solution
After much frustration, it wasn't until I considered the 'orange' plastic unit which covers the charging board (secured by three screws). It was orange on my phone, however, could be different on yours.
On the underside of this removable unit, are two copper plates approx 1mm by 1mm. These lined up with two spring loaded 'arms' on the replaced charging board underneath. In my case, these two cooper plates were slightly dented meaning that a poor connection occurred between the board and the unit.
The solution was to a) Pry the metal arms further apart using a very thin piece of plastic, raising them slightly and b) raise the entire circuit board underneath very slightly. This was done using a very thin piece of plastic (I used a small cut-off from a pill packet, and removed the foil coating, then folded it over on itself to increase the thickness), and placing it directly underneath the two metal arms under the charging board.
And since then, I can report that my phone will now consistently charge again. I am once again, able to both use and charge my phone at the same time.
It maybe worth noting that if you're suffering from similar problems that this board may not need replacing, although in my case, I also suffered damage to the micro usb port so had no other option. This is still by far cheaper than sending the phone off for repair as this is something that most people can do if, like me, you are no longer covered under warranty.
Taking the phone apart
This was actually remarkably strait forward and easy to do with some basic tools. The tools I used are:
A very small Philips screwdriver (preferably magnetic)
A small spring loaded hair clip (for separating the front and back)
Plastic tweezers
A small plastic container (for the screws you remove)
And finally, some common sense
The hair clip I found to be the best tool for removing the front and back because of its thin width and plastic coating which prevented scrape marks, although anything extremely thin and plastic should just about do.
Hopefully from the pictures I'm going to attempt to attach, you'll see my N7000 is white (what a bad choice that was ) and the gap was between the very delicate white plastic lip and silver plastic body, I imagine the black version is constructed in an identical manner although I cannot confirm this.
I found the best place to start (assuming the screen is towards you) when prying the front and back apart was just below the volume buttons on the left side. I then worked my way down that side, attacking directly to the left and right of usb port next. Then just below the power button and continue down the lower right hand side. The top I found to be slightly trickier, but start just to the left of the headphone port, then pry the corners.
Now, I can at times be a little clumsy, so my phone naturally has some ware and tare. All in all, I added two very small scuff marks on both the top and bottom, and have taken the phone apart several times. I would video it, however the similarities between the video above and the N7000 are minimal in terms of de-constructing.
Also worth noting, on one occasion, I didn't have the plastic tweezers available, and I found that if you're incredibly careful, you can detach the mini flex cables using a small plastic disposable spoon, the like you find in service stations . Additionally, the screws used in the casing are a different size to the three on the removable plastic unit, so don't mix them up.
Conclusion
I think that is everything useful, however, feel free to ask questions if I didn't cover anything. I've seen a lot of charger related problems in this thread, and haven't found anything like this, so sorry if this information is not beneficial or of use.
I would also like to comment that before I replaced this board, I experienced many of the described problems in relation to the cable used. I have found that as long as I use a reasonable quality cable and any USB wall adapter rated at 1A, I get a consistently good charge every time. I have experimented with a few cheap cables, including a few from the 99p store which seem to charge slightly slower, although since replacing the board and adjusting the metal arms I rarely have issues when charging now.
Regards
Tom
My phone has done the exact same thing. would you recommend sending the phone away to be fix or is it easy enough for a average person to fix it by them self?
william_1434 said:
My phone has done the exact same thing. would you recommend sending the phone away to be fix or is it easy enough for a average person to fix it by them self?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I literally just got done with this process myself....Took all of 15mins. Very simple to do. Definitely the average person can fix themselves.
Go ahead and give it a shot!
tb_tom89 said:
Hello everybody,
First of all, I've been following the XDA Forums for many years now, having owned and played around with quite a few different phones. I've always found the answers and solutions I need from the community so I just wanted to share my recent experiences with my GT-N7000.
Now while I'm certainly no expert in electronics, I do have a good understanding and hope this information could really help somebody else out.
The Problem
A few months ago, I managed to trip over the trailing USB cable, pulling the phone off the table with some considerable force. After this, it started with intermittent connection problems, combined with poor / slow charging. I would often find that it would report charging absolutely fine, whilst still draining the battery. Maybe worth mentioning, as far as I can recall, the phone never reported being charged / plugged in when it wasn't.
After some time, the problem worsened until I was unable to charge the phone at all. Also note that the USB connection to the computer also didn't work. I came across a very useful youtube video, to which I would like to thank the author.
OK, so I can't post links, but head over to youtube and enter "watch?v=pD9R-YUT69Q" at the end of the URL
I found the part that needed replacing for £12.95 on amazon, which arrived within a few days. I've put some helpful hints at the bottom with regards to actually dismantling the phone to avoid too much text up here
again, no links so go to UK Amazon and enter "/Samsung-GT-i9220-Charger-Connector-Replacement/dp/B009X6BGDM" at the end of the URL.
I found that this seemed to largely fix the problem, however, issues still remained with maintaining a consistent connection. These issues got worse over the following few weeks, until again, I could barley charge the phone. The steps to make it charge consisted of using a specific few chargers (any HTC or Samsung branded cable would work, *perhaps because of the extra 'clips' on the metal shield*), firmly push the connector into the phone, then apply a reasonable amount of pressure downwards when holding the phone flat and level. This would usually charge the phone, however, on occasion charging would randomly stop, or after unplugging at 100%, the battery level would instantly drop to around 70%.
Other odd anomalies such as entering recovery mode when plugging in with the phone switched off, or entering driving / docking mode while connecting the charger with the phone switched on occurred too.
* Complete speculation
The Solution
After much frustration, it wasn't until I considered the 'orange' plastic unit which covers the charging board (secured by three screws). It was orange on my phone, however, could be different on yours.
On the underside of this removable unit, are two copper plates approx 1mm by 1mm. These lined up with two spring loaded 'arms' on the replaced charging board underneath. In my case, these two cooper plates were slightly dented meaning that a poor connection occurred between the board and the unit.
The solution was to a) Pry the metal arms further apart using a very thin piece of plastic, raising them slightly and b) raise the entire circuit board underneath very slightly. This was done using a very thin piece of plastic (I used a small cut-off from a pill packet, and removed the foil coating, then folded it over on itself to increase the thickness), and placing it directly underneath the two metal arms under the charging board.
And since then, I can report that my phone will now consistently charge again. I am once again, able to both use and charge my phone at the same time.
It maybe worth noting that if you're suffering from similar problems that this board may not need replacing, although in my case, I also suffered damage to the micro usb port so had no other option. This is still by far cheaper than sending the phone off for repair as this is something that most people can do if, like me, you are no longer covered under warranty.
Taking the phone apart
This was actually remarkably strait forward and easy to do with some basic tools. The tools I used are:
A very small Philips screwdriver (preferably magnetic)
A small spring loaded hair clip (for separating the front and back)
Plastic tweezers
A small plastic container (for the screws you remove)
And finally, some common sense
The hair clip I found to be the best tool for removing the front and back because of its thin width and plastic coating which prevented scrape marks, although anything extremely thin and plastic should just about do.
Hopefully from the pictures I'm going to attempt to attach, you'll see my N7000 is white (what a bad choice that was ) and the gap was between the very delicate white plastic lip and silver plastic body, I imagine the black version is constructed in an identical manner although I cannot confirm this.
I found the best place to start (assuming the screen is towards you) when prying the front and back apart was just below the volume buttons on the left side. I then worked my way down that side, attacking directly to the left and right of usb port next. Then just below the power button and continue down the lower right hand side. The top I found to be slightly trickier, but start just to the left of the headphone port, then pry the corners.
Now, I can at times be a little clumsy, so my phone naturally has some ware and tare. All in all, I added two very small scuff marks on both the top and bottom, and have taken the phone apart several times. I would video it, however the similarities between the video above and the N7000 are minimal in terms of de-constructing.
Also worth noting, on one occasion, I didn't have the plastic tweezers available, and I found that if you're incredibly careful, you can detach the mini flex cables using a small plastic disposable spoon, the like you find in service stations . Additionally, the screws used in the casing are a different size to the three on the removable plastic unit, so don't mix them up.
Conclusion
I think that is everything useful, however, feel free to ask questions if I didn't cover anything. I've seen a lot of charger related problems in this thread, and haven't found anything like this, so sorry if this information is not beneficial or of use.
I would also like to comment that before I replaced this board, I experienced many of the described problems in relation to the cable used. I have found that as long as I use a reasonable quality cable and any USB wall adapter rated at 1A, I get a consistently good charge every time. I have experimented with a few cheap cables, including a few from the 99p store which seem to charge slightly slower, although since replacing the board and adjusting the metal arms I rarely have issues when charging now.
Regards
Tom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im glad to see that you have managed to solve your usb issue simply.
Mine is out of warranty somehow and i have been searching all the possible ways since 2012 April..
This is the thread : "[Q] [q] USB BRICK - Devs PLZ HELP!!!"
william_1434 said:
My phone has done the exact same thing. would you recommend sending the phone away to be fix or is it easy enough for a average person to fix it by them self?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I too need to replace my usb port. This topic has helped cheers.
I called Samsung and the rep said that Samsung class any damage done to the micro usb connection to be external damage and thus not covered by warranty.
Seeing that shipping to Samsung is $16 AUD and the replacement part is $12 AUD I know what I will do .
Awesome post!
I've had problems with the charging port for a long time. Replaced the board 4 times from ebay and Amazon; sometimes reception was bad, other times the charging port didn't work unless forced down. So I thought it was just bad replica boards and gave up. Bought an external charger instead.
I had to use the phone recently so I thought I'd try fix the problem again. I got a hold of an original board form a broken n7000 and still same problem (hold down to charge). That's when I got suspicious...it should have fixed it this time. Even separated the metal pins more and didn't work.
Luckily I found your post and added some packing behind the board...and it worked!!! Separating the pins wasn't enough.
Great tip :good:. Definitely worth a bump even though it's an old post. Finally solved my problem and may help others who think the board is faulty.
You sir, are my hero,
Thanks so much for this post, saved me from a headache on rampage. Had the same problem and did replace the USB flexcable as well with the same result.
But this fixed it all!
Thanks again!
Found another cheapest and easiest solution of all, it works magic for me. Do refer to the video here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cJcCK5ZVSAY
Thank you
tb_tom89 said:
Hello everybody,
First of all, I've been following the XDA Forums for many years now, having owned and played around with quite a few different phones. I've always found the answers and solutions I need from the community so I just wanted to share my recent experiences with my GT-N7000.
Now while I'm certainly no expert in electronics, I do have a good understanding and hope this information could really help somebody else out.
The Problem
A few months ago, I managed to trip over the trailing USB cable, pulling the phone off the table with some considerable force. After this, it started with intermittent connection problems, combined with poor / slow charging. I would often find that it would report charging absolutely fine, whilst still draining the battery. Maybe worth mentioning, as far as I can recall, the phone never reported being charged / plugged in when it wasn't.
After some time, the problem worsened until I was unable to charge the phone at all. Also note that the USB connection to the computer also didn't work. I came across a very useful youtube video, to which I would like to thank the author.
OK, so I can't post links, but head over to youtube and enter "watch?v=pD9R-YUT69Q" at the end of the URL
I found the part that needed replacing for £12.95 on amazon, which arrived within a few days. I've put some helpful hints at the bottom with regards to actually dismantling the phone to avoid too much text up here
again, no links so go to UK Amazon and enter "/Samsung-GT-i9220-Charger-Connector-Replacement/dp/B009X6BGDM" at the end of the URL.
I found that this seemed to largely fix the problem, however, issues still remained with maintaining a consistent connection. These issues got worse over the following few weeks, until again, I could barley charge the phone. The steps to make it charge consisted of using a specific few chargers (any HTC or Samsung branded cable would work, *perhaps because of the extra 'clips' on the metal shield*), firmly push the connector into the phone, then apply a reasonable amount of pressure downwards when holding the phone flat and level. This would usually charge the phone, however, on occasion charging would randomly stop, or after unplugging at 100%, the battery level would instantly drop to around 70%.
Other odd anomalies such as entering recovery mode when plugging in with the phone switched off, or entering driving / docking mode while connecting the charger with the phone switched on occurred too.
* Complete speculation
The Solution
After much frustration, it wasn't until I considered the 'orange' plastic unit which covers the charging board (secured by three screws). It was orange on my phone, however, could be different on yours.
On the underside of this removable unit, are two copper plates approx 1mm by 1mm. These lined up with two spring loaded 'arms' on the replaced charging board underneath. In my case, these two cooper plates were slightly dented meaning that a poor connection occurred between the board and the unit.
The solution was to a) Pry the metal arms further apart using a very thin piece of plastic, raising them slightly and b) raise the entire circuit board underneath very slightly. This was done using a very thin piece of plastic (I used a small cut-off from a pill packet, and removed the foil coating, then folded it over on itself to increase the thickness), and placing it directly underneath the two metal arms under the charging board.
And since then, I can report that my phone will now consistently charge again. I am once again, able to both use and charge my phone at the same time.
It maybe worth noting that if you're suffering from similar problems that this board may not need replacing, although in my case, I also suffered damage to the micro usb port so had no other option. This is still by far cheaper than sending the phone off for repair as this is something that most people can do if, like me, you are no longer covered under warranty.
Taking the phone apart
This was actually remarkably strait forward and easy to do with some basic tools. The tools I used are:
A very small Philips screwdriver (preferably magnetic)
A small spring loaded hair clip (for separating the front and back)
Plastic tweezers
A small plastic container (for the screws you remove)
And finally, some common sense
The hair clip I found to be the best tool for removing the front and back because of its thin width and plastic coating which prevented scrape marks, although anything extremely thin and plastic should just about do.
Hopefully from the pictures I'm going to attempt to attach, you'll see my N7000 is white (what a bad choice that was ) and the gap was between the very delicate white plastic lip and silver plastic body, I imagine the black version is constructed in an identical manner although I cannot confirm this.
I found the best place to start (assuming the screen is towards you) when prying the front and back apart was just below the volume buttons on the left side. I then worked my way down that side, attacking directly to the left and right of usb port next. Then just below the power button and continue down the lower right hand side. The top I found to be slightly trickier, but start just to the left of the headphone port, then pry the corners.
Now, I can at times be a little clumsy, so my phone naturally has some ware and tare. All in all, I added two very small scuff marks on both the top and bottom, and have taken the phone apart several times. I would video it, however the similarities between the video above and the N7000 are minimal in terms of de-constructing.
Also worth noting, on one occasion, I didn't have the plastic tweezers available, and I found that if you're incredibly careful, you can detach the mini flex cables using a small plastic disposable spoon, the like you find in service stations . Additionally, the screws used in the casing are a different size to the three on the removable plastic unit, so don't mix them up.
Conclusion
I think that is everything useful, however, feel free to ask questions if I didn't cover anything. I've seen a lot of charger related problems in this thread, and haven't found anything like this, so sorry if this information is not beneficial or of use.
I would also like to comment that before I replaced this board, I experienced many of the described problems in relation to the cable used. I have found that as long as I use a reasonable quality cable and any USB wall adapter rated at 1A, I get a consistently good charge every time. I have experimented with a few cheap cables, including a few from the 99p store which seem to charge slightly slower, although since replacing the board and adjusting the metal arms I rarely have issues when charging now.
Regards
Tom
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Click to collapse
Nice solution, i will try at home later.
Hi, some time ago when i was dissasembling my Nexus 6 due to a camera replacement, i accidentally broke an smd component below the camera that is part of the screen well it only detached one pin ftom the two it has so i suited it in his place again and attached back the yellow transparent tape it has, i proceeded to reassemble the phone and all went good except when i low the brightness to certain point it starts to show Green lines and distortion but at a normal ir not so low brightness there Is no problem, Also i noticed an high amperage consumption and consequently a low battery duration i suppose it happens due to the broken component and want your advice if i should weld it again, it is very small and Is surrounded by many components as the same i broke, should i use heat gun? Or a soldering iron ? Tin welding or liquid welding, or i just should heat the welding the component has and set it again un his place? There Is a photo of What im talking about (the photo Is from a broken screen i have but it shows the components)
http ://i.imgurcom/h4TemYN. png
Just add the point after imgur and delete the spaces to see the image, im not available to put links Yet.
Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.
It s an easy job with the right equipment ,and being a technician . Only trouble I can think off is to find the same component but since you have a broken screen it should be easy. I think if you have no experience you can seriously ruin your display. Bring it disassembled to a technician with the component to remove and solder back from the broken display . It's an easy job and I wouldn't charge more than 10€ to resolder it from the broken one to the working one. Elsewhere if you want to do it by yourself you need an hot air rework station and a good flux to recover the component from the ko display , and then a fine tip to solder it back ( a good flux is your friend ) . Don't use hot hair to mount the component to the new display, you can screw the flex cable, it's really delicate
@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: I don't agree that it's necessary to be a technician to replace a surface mount component. The OP can do the job if he has a low-wattage soldering iron or a variable wattage model. I do agree that flux is a good idea however. I honestly wish I had some when I was repairing my laptop, but I also got lucky. The heat gun I thought would have been better for the initial repair, because I thought this might have been an actual board on the underside of the display that the ribbon cables connected to. Thus the soldering iron was the right choice.
The problem here is that he didn't post a picture of his work, so we can't see what's been done to the board. For all we know the pad lifted off the board, which broke the trace. He could have burned the board by using a high-wattage soldering iron. He could have destroyed the component with the soldering iron. If he used additional solder he could have accidentally bridged the connection. There are simply too many unknowns here to present an informed opinion.
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Yes we need pictures... It's not a board, it's fully a flat, so hot hair could ruin the flex even if you move it flat to a dashboard, you can't even imagine how easy is to break those flex. More than this with hot air and amoled displays you have to be really careful, those types off display are delicate too. For the fact that it could be able to solder back the component , if he can is ok, but to do a perfect job you must have experience ,the matrix of components on the flex is very tight . It's better to bring it to a technician than try to do something you can't do... It's 10€ Vs a screen replacement of 180. If he has experience , better for him, for me would be an easy job.
You should also consider that the use of the display without the component could ruin. Something else on the motherboard
@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@Axel85: Just to clarify, I'm not saying he shouldn't bring it to a tech. Just that it isn't necessary to be a tech to do such a repair. I agree that he'd be much better off taking it to a tech, though I think it's too late and the damage has already been done.
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Yes I understand but I can tell you its harder than you think, you must have a good skills with soldering iron to resolder this component inside this matrix of others.
We need to know more about him and get damaged area pictures to evaluate an answer
@Axel85: Preaching to the choir.
IOW, I agree.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
Lots of questions to ask here, so I'm going to just get to it.
1. What is the wattage rating of your soldering iron?
2. Is your soldering iron a pencil type or gun type?
3. How small is the tip?
4. Did you apply any extra solder in attempting your repair?
The wattage of the soldering iron and its type are critically important. Too much heat and you could destroy the component. Also, the damage here could be to the board itself and not the component. When one side lifted from the board it could have pulled up the solder pad the component was sitting on, breaking the trace underneath. What I'd need to see, prior to you doing anything else, is a picture of the actual board you worked on.
My advice? I would get a new screen. The fact of the matter is that you shouldn't have taken a soldering iron to the component as you could easily have burned the board and burned out the component. In such a confined area you could also have accidentally created a solder bridge, which could also cause the issues you're seeing. What you should have used was a heat gun set to 300 degrees celsius. Hold the heat gun one inch above the surface and turn it on, holding it steady for one minute. So long as no traces were broken in the initial mishap, this would allow the solder to liquify and restore the connection between component and board.*
*A heat gun is what I used to repair my Dell Inspiron 15, by applying steady heat to the GPU for a minute. This caused the solder balls making the connection to liquify and restore the connection with the motherboard. Two years later and the laptop still works.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
1. 60 watts the thin soldering iron, 140 watts the gun one , i have other pencil soldering iron of 30 watts
2. I have both
3. I don't have the specifications but is very thin
4. No i just suited the component in his place and put back the yellow tape
5.- The board is all right i also confirmed it (The component i broke is part of the LCD)
6.- I've already posted a link to the image because i can't post links or images yet, there is again : http ://i.imgur.com/h4TemYN. png (just copy and paste in the search bar and delete the blank spaces in the link to see the image)
7.- All right then i will try it
Thank you so much for your advice :good:
@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.
Strephon Alkhalikoi said:
@BRMX7: Read the rest of the thread before doing anything.
1. You should be using no more than 30 watts on small electronics. 60 watts for your pencil iron is too hot and will have likely fried the component. I hope you didn't try using the gun on this, which leads to my second question.
2. Which one did you use to make this repair? I hope it wasn't the gun, because you may have done far more damage than you can see.
3. Post a picture.
4. Good. That eliminates the possibility of a solder bridge. Though there may still be damage you can't see, especially to the component itself.
5. How can you confirm it based solely on sight? On the rare occasions where I needed to get up close to the work, I had both a 16x and 20x jeweler's loupe handy (most recently when I was repairing my car remote).
6. According to your post, the image you posted is not of the screen you worked on, but a second screen that was already broken. @Axel85 and I both want to see a picture of the screen you worked on. If what you posted is the screen you worked on, make that clear.
7. See the opening sentence of this post.
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Click to collapse
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.
BRMX7 said:
1. Okay i will use it in 30 watts it is a variable welding station
2.I haven't done anything first i asked for advice before doing any repairment on it.
3. i did it (i will post one of the damaged one)( I didn't posted one of the damaged one because i'm using it right now and i haven't my tools at the hand to dissasembly it and take the picture) looks exactly the same than the damaged one because the indicated component in the image is in the same place but just with the right pin detached .
4. I will have care
5-6. I confirmed it using a variable power supply and a multimeter doing various proceedures to know what was the problem, testing if the power consumption was problem of any component or the screen, also checked it with a flir thermal camera of a friend and it was all right in the board.
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Click to collapse
The best way than is to recover the component from the old broken display flex and solder it back in place . If you ripped off the solder pad you can search where it goes with the tester, you just need to expose a little point of the solder pad way ,and then make a bridge