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A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
I like the black with silver buttons one but the red one would be great with the guava bubbles theme.....
The red one is really cool
Makes me think of the neonode
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
thx
Thx 2 Photoshop
Anybody has any new ideas ? ...
I'm still very interested in any ideas...
what paint should I use ? Acrilic or ...I don't know, spray...
I heard that car paint is very good and strong
And that acrilic paint responds to chemical agents even after 10 days , wich is bad
Any info is much apreciated
And of course...new color ideas
Hello
hanmin said:
there are two paint jobs done on Wizard. Search this forum for the 'white wizard'.
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Click to collapse
I reviewed your opinion...and from site to site I've come to one of your links I think
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89422
That's exactly the paint I need (( It looks sooo nice.
But I'm not from US and I cannot order online from US, is not worth it...
I'm reading now his thread. I'll be back
I actually work at Micheals Arts and Crafts.
I have thought about it several times, but I have the 8125 version, so there isn't much to paint.
IF you were to try, I would recommend plastic paint with a glaze. But I don't know 100% if it'd work.
I wanna color mine, but like stated, I don't wanna ruin it.
Obviously you'd have to take it apart because if you didn't then you'd have key sticking problems.
Good luck to anyone who tries!
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
I would prefer a camo one I tend to be different. I asked a friend of mine and he said that he had to take his apart to do it. I would not like to do this, but for fashion sake I may have to.
anichillus said:
I updated the yellow one, on my girlfriends suggestion
I'm pretty sure that you'll have to tear it all apart. I have done this once...when I bought it, my display was scratched, so I fixed it with some fine sanding and a chemical solution(some kind of acid).
I read about other that painted their stuff...I'm not a native in english...so I don't understand all things...like someone said he used "Dupli-Colors Grey Primer, Gloss Black and Crystal Clear" ...what is that ?
Is there a shop that sells some paint especially for plastic ?...
I'm thinking about ... Pearl Glossy White and very shiny Gloss Black
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Dupi-Colors is a brand of paint here in the states that are made to match automotive colors. They come in either spray cans or small bottles for touchup. Hope this helps BTW the glossy white and gloss black sounds real nice. Keep us updated on how it goes if you decide to do this and of course take plenty of notes and photos of the process.
Kirby
Thx
Thx, and I will keep you posted. I'm plannig on starting this job monday, because right now I have allot on my head
For painting plastic, the best thing to use is vinyl dye. You can get it at any automotive store. It comes in a spray can. Its a very thin liquid that is absorbed by the plastic so the color is deeper than the surface. Scratches will not show as a different color. This also makes it almost idiot proof. Its really hard to force it to run.
If you are going to paint it after that, fine, but it will make the painting much easier and if something does scratch it, the surface underneath will be the matching color.
Keep in mind that with vinyl dye you can only go darker than the orignial color. It would work great for black. Using red on the silver plastic would result in a sliver/red color.
I have used this stuff on many plastic items and it always works perfectly. Paint is great for a super high gloss, but too much of a pain for anything that you will have in hand often. Paint adds layers over the plastic. Vinyl dye just changes its color.
I suggest you look up some pc case modding instructions. They are the masters of painting and dying plastic.
Thx man
That came in handy. I'm searching right now for some case modding forums. If you know any, please post them.
Almoust there !!!
Okay, so I delayed the whole thing a couple of days. Now today, when I want to the car paint store, I was looking for Black Gloss and sidef or pearl White, unfortunately they didn't have the white.
So ... it toked me about 5 hours, but it's ready. I left the buttons, for later next week, when I will go again at the store.
I bought a Gloss Black by Dupli Colours (a spray can)
I have applied 2 layers of paint, I will apply another one next week when I get the pearl white.
I'm very satisfied of how it came out, trust me. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures before , too cought up in the game but you can see "remains" of what it once was , only by looking at the upper buttons.
Sorry for the quality of the pictures, it's been a while since I've last used a camera
By the way, I also painted the mouse, because it was geting rusty...All is Black and Silver
And other pictures
...other pictures
I forgot to mention, My mouse's and Wizard's original colour were all grey silver, so it was kinda difficult to paint black over silver
Hi
You are very brave
I have been thinking about doing this myself.
If I may give some constructive criticism.
Painting from a spray can is a very delicate process.
I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%.
Try this
1. Use very fine water sand paper and smooth all areas to be painted, they must be supper smooth
2. Be sure no dust or stray dirt on surfaces
3. Use a plastic primer for first coat
4. When you spray use a small amount of spray per coat (your first coat must only just be visible, It must look like a fine dust layer on the plastic)
5. Let it dry for 5 hours at least (If you paint over a non dry layer it stops the paint from curing properly and it will chip or scratch off) Then sand again using super fine water paper then apply next coat.
If done right you will only start to cover all areas completely after 4th or 5th coat. THE BIGEST KILLER OF PAINT JOBS IS HASTE. Take your time, you need to spend a few days to get the proper finish.
6. Do 5 or 6 super fine coats and then 2 coats of clear gloss (same process between each coat.
Always be sure paint can is well shaken and use a paper napkin to clean the spray nozzle between each pass.
If you are in a cold damp climate drying time can be as long as 8 hours.
There is a difference between dry to the touch and cured paint.
This is a mouse I did a while back.
This is 2 clear coats from being done
The completed project
Hope this helps
Jules
that the move right that my-dude holla Im go some 8125 Clear's on the way all in production with the clear keybord's haoll @ your boy I will send you free bodie's when my freight clear's
Do what it do my mangggggg
By: Wesley Clouden
Mobile Content Producer
First, I didn't understand a word of what 1nappiee007 said that's cool tough.
Second.
@ ZaJules ,
Like I said, my pic's were not that great
And I acted as you said. First layer very thin (very very thin) and so on.
I would say that no1 enemy is the dust. I have washed the parts and used fine sand paper. The spray that I used was dry in 10 minutes. And still, like I said, I hate dust
I already said that the job is not over yet. If I was going to apply a matte color, it would have been easy, but with gloss...it's different.
I wonder why did you said that "I can see by the pics that the surface was not prepped 100%" What is the picture that made you say that ?
I'm not arguing, i'm curious, because .... it's really shiny and smooth. Perhaps you meant the mouse, because there you are almost right. I don't know why, but it's surface is not as smooth as the wizard's ... mabe because I used more paint...anyhow, it still looks great, glossy.. Sorry that the pictures don't satisfy you, to be honest, I don't like them either.
The only thing that I was not so happy about is that I didn't focus enough on the small parts , like sides and ends ...anyhow, I will know better next time
Sorry for my english
And from mistakes we learn, what would life be without a little constructive criticism ? "Hey, I just killed a kid ! , -Whell, try to avoid it next time.It's ok dough "
any news about the paint job
anichillus said:
A couple of months ago I bought my first PPC , a Wizard... I bought it second hand, so the paint is a little...oh well, a little missing I want to repaint it so this is why I started this thread.
Did anybody else painted his ? If yes, please post pcitures and a "How to" would be nice.
-What kind of paint?
-Any problems or even better, how not to ruin your Wizard...
Before I bought paint and stuff...I tried a little in Photoshop so I make up my mind about collors and style.
Here are a few ...clues ...I still didn't made up my mind.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
made your mind up allready?
i personally liked the idea of a andy warhole kind of thing
excuse me ... andy warhole ? I don't understand...sorry . please explain
And I only painted the base...I could go red or white...or ...why not, green on the buttons
By the way, my wizard was just like the one in your avatar ... only ...used...allot
Anyway....I got to get some sleep ... i didn't sleep all nikgt...some darn project (( see you later
Well the factory warranty ran out so why not paint it! Here it is in a flat black. I really, really like the look of it. But the bad part is...the paint that I looked all over town for...is worthless. I used the Krylon Fusion that's supposed to freaking bond to the plastic and not even require sanding. However I used 2000 grit sandpaper to just give it something to grip on to. Then following the instructions it says to wait 7 days for it to become fully chip resistant. Not only does it chip...easily...the paint comes off! The first time I put it back together after waiting a week...I made a call and of course the oil from my face got on the front bezel and screen. No biggie I thought...I wiped off all the smudges with my shirt...and the paint came off onto my shirt! I couldn't believe it. So I'll have get this paint off and redo this phone with a much better paint. Anybody have any suggestions for a flat black?
Haven't tested as i'm not that skilled (i think) and phone's still under warranty.
http://www.instructables.com/id/E5MGY2CF5EB7KDV/
hope it helps. cheers
Painting over is not a good idea :\
This is interesting, I got my mom the HTC One about a week ago. She took it hiking with her and was carrying it in a protective case for hiking. She was up ~10,000ft when she stopped for a break, pulled her phone out, text a few people, sat it down for about a min in the protective case, picked it up and the screen was shattered.
Anyone ever have any thing like this happen? I thought the elevation alone wouldn't do that, but then I got to thinking, airplane cabins are pressurized so your ears aren't popping and such. The temp at that altitude was a lot cooler then where she was when she put the phone in the case initially. I am wondering if the combination of cooler air and altitude caused it to shatter.
Here is a pic. I am baffled.
(click for larger version)
Wow. That sucks. I think you might be right. Maybe the glass expanded/contracted too much at that altitude.
Maybe it wasn't the cooler temp, maybe it was the lower pressure. I doubt the glass contracting would make it shatter like that.
However, you have a valid case of design flaw or manufacturing defect. Tell them exactly what happened and show them that the glass has NO IMPACT POINT.
Keep bothering them until they give in.
There was this other guy here, called @maseo, can't find his thread now on mobile. He got his one replaced eventually
sauprankul said:
Maybe it wasn't the cooler temp, maybe it was the lower pressure. I doubt the glass contracting would make it shatter like that.
However, you have a valid case of design flaw or manufacturing defect. Tell them exactly what happened and show them that the glass has NO IMPACT POINT.
Keep bothering them until they give in.
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Click to collapse
Glass is not good at holding temp and pressure differentials... That's why u r cars glass is mixed glass ( mixed glass is less brittle and doesn't crash on your face etc etc) and airplanes windows are completely plastic and that's why most drink manufaturers avoid using glass except liquor because freezing point of liquor preety darn low so pressure is not an issue.. . Gorilla glass is actually very brittle so lower pressure and decrease in pressure is not somethin it can stand
Sent from my HTC One using xda app-developers app
I have never heard of this happening, but Gorilla Glass gets its scratch resistance and toughness through a manufacturing process that creates a lot of opposed stresses in the material. Changing the environmental conditions enough to throw those stresses out of balance could very well cause the glass to crack like that.
As the tittle implies I'm trying to figure out what "kind" of metal it has so I could try some ways to get rid of the scratches and basically look new again...it is possible, anyone know if it's aluminum? Metal. ..chrome plated?
"fighting as one hand one heart, one soul. We will shatter their dreams and haunt their nightmares"
It's aluminum.
I had the idea to use a nail buffer on it. Being a girl, I have used them on my nails a lot and have had a lot of success buffing metal to a chrome-like shine with them too. I'm gonna try it tonight on the big scratch I have on my bezel. I'll report back with the results.
kabuk1 said:
It's aluminum.
I had the idea to use a nail buffer on it. Being a girl, I have used them on my nails a lot and have had a lot of success buffing metal to a chrome-like shine with them too. I'm gonna try it tonight on the big scratch I have on my bezel. I'll report back with the results.
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Oh ok...thanks for the advice let me know how it went! I was thinking about vegetable oil.
"fighting as one hand one heart, one soul. We will shatter their dreams and haunt their nightmares"
Ok, so I did it and... it worked.
I can still see some evidence of the scratch but it looks MUCH better, I have to hunt for the scratches now and I think if I spent more time on it and used a brand new buffer, it would be unnoticeable.
what nail buffer did you use? And would you please tell us how you did it? Thank you
Smh
This is the one I used, but I'd recommend getting one with a grey buffing surface cause they're a bit smoother & they create a shinier surface IMO. You can get these at any drugstore in the beauty section. I wish I could have taken before & after pics, but unfortunately my phone is my only camera.
What I did was use the second smoothest grit(the purple part) to buff out the scratch first, then I used the pink part to shine it up. You can still see the little metallic lines on it from the buffing process.
I would honestly advise just using a case to cover up the scratches, but this does work to remove them. USE EXTREME CAUTION IF YOU DO THIS. It is not my fault if you mess up or do more damage! I would tape up the surrounding surfaces by where you'll be buffing just so you don't accidentally nick anything. Take your time & go slow, and keep in mind that its probably not going to look completely factory-perfect, it will just take out the scratches and make it shiny again.
kabuk1 said:
This is the one I used, but I'd recommend getting one with a grey buffing surface cause they're a bit smoother & they create a shinier surface IMO. You can get these at any drugstore in the beauty section. I wish I could have taken before & after pics, but unfortunately my phone is my only camera.
What I did was use the second smoothest grit(the purple part) to buff out the scratch first, then I used the pink part to shine it up. You can still see the little metallic lines on it from the buffing process.
I would honestly advise just using a case to cover up the scratches, but this does work to remove them. USE EXTREME CAUTION IF YOU DO THIS. It is not my fault if you mess up or do more damage! I would tape up the surrounding surfaces by where you'll be buffing just so you don't accidentally nick anything. Take your time & go slow, and keep in mind that its probably not going to look completely factory-perfect, it will just take out the scratches and make it shiny again.
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Click to collapse
I'm going to try sandpaper
:angel:
shook187 said:
Smh
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Lol
btort1 said:
I'm going to try sandpaper
:angel:
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Click to collapse
Oof ... well its your phone 0.0
kabuk1 said:
Oof ... well its your phone 0.0
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Click to collapse
This worked pretty well. I took an alternate route though, I decided to use the slightly coarser edge first and brush it, then buff and polish it with the other sides. If done slowly and properly, you can give the phone a brushed aluminum look which I like a bit better than the polished look. This way also, scratches don't stand out at all.
chrisjm00 said:
This worked pretty well. I took an alternate route though, I decided to use the slightly coarser edge first and brush it, then buff and polish it with the other sides. If done slowly and properly, you can give the phone a brushed aluminum look which I like a bit better than the polished look. This way also, scratches don't stand out at all.
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Click to collapse
Good to hear
I actually thought about doing the brushed aluminum look too, I did that on my HD2 back in the day and it looked pretty cool.
kabuk1 said:
Good to hear
I actually thought about doing the brushed aluminum look too, I did that on my HD2 back in the day and it looked pretty cool.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wow... The HD2... That was my first girlfriend... Girlfriend that was dressed with WP7 & Android... That was the love of my life... After that the HD7... Then the HTC Sensation, Samsung Infuse, Note 1, 2, 3, 4... And now the Note Edge... (left a bunch of Nokia Lumia's plus a few Samsung's and HTC's in the way) Sorry... You mentioned the HD2 and I was suddenly dreaming... Off topic, sorry.
TEKHD said:
Wow... The HD2... That was my first girlfriend... Girlfriend that was dressed with WP7 & Android... That was the love of my life... After that the HD7... Then the HTC Sensation, Samsung Infuse, Note 1, 2, 3, 4... And now the Note Edge... (left a bunch of Nokia Lumia's plus a few Samsung's and HTC's in the way) Sorry... You mentioned the HD2 and I was suddenly dreaming... Off topic, sorry.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I loved my HD2 so much and used it for years. I still have it and occasionally use it as a backuo phone too. One of the best phones HTC has ever made, IMO, development for that little beast was off the charts.
Anyway, back on topic, lol.
Never Dull
This stuff is magical. No Joke.
Never Dull. It's on Amazon. I would link it, but I don't have ability. My dad showed me this stuff when I was a kid and it works incredibly well for dealing with hairline scratches and tarnish.
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
That actually looks really nice! I'm Impressed with it . Just out of Curiosity what watchface is that also as it suits the watch really well.
That's a custom watch face for WatchMaker (built by me). You can download it from here.
I'm not sure I have the b... sorry guts for this kind of job
First Hardware Mod!
That looks great! I know it's just a matter of time before I will need to do this. I have sanded/polished like this before and may I warn everyone:
Make sure you keep the sandpaper flat. If it rolls up under the face it will scratch the screen.​Better yet, only do this with a screen protector.
Really nice. You should offer your services for a fee, to do this for others afraid to do it themselves. Not that you'd offer any guarantees, but you have proof you know how to do it right .
Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk
Wow that's a great fix for this. Showed the scratches on my bezel to the lg team at ces and they were surprised and would follow up with me after the show. They said they hadn't come across this issue (which I find hard to believe). Like you mentioned OP the bezel is aluminum and the lower parts are steel and seem to be much more durable paint wise.
I'm hoping they might send me a new watch with some better paint but if not I'm definitely going to use this method!
it does look good, however once you do this there is no going back ........
if you want a better finish you may want to try crocus paper after you have removed the paint on the bezel, crocus paper is very fine and may give a smoother finish.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crocus_cloth
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the pain, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
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Click to collapse
So very true.
I personally think that looks fantastic and a milliion times better than a scratched bezel. Mine hasn't recieved any scratches yet, but seeing your results, I'm no longer panicked about that happening.
Thank you for a great solution!
yes of course, I like the look of it too
How long have you had the watch since you did this? Is there any signs of corrosion on the exposed Aluminium?
ro_explorer said:
Once you have bumped the outer bezel into an outer object, hard enough to expose the metal under the paint, the is no going back either. But at least, there is a way to move forward .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I did the operation on January 2nd (when I posted on the forum ). One full week passed since then .. no signs on the metal surface whatsoever (expected, it's aluminum and this does not corrode).
Here is a photo from today.
ro_explorer said:
I saw a few guys complaining about the scratched/bumped bezel which looks ugly because the paint will reveal the metal underneath.
Well, I also damaged my watch by accidentally hitting it . Permanent markers are not a good solution because they do not last.
Apparently the bezel is made out of aluminium and only the watch body is made out of steel, that why, maybe, the bezel is less resistant.
Last evening though, an idea came to my mind, which I also applied on the watch. The result is promising .
Using some fine sandpaper (600) and some real paper after that, I completely removed the paint from the top of the bezel.
As a technique, I laid the sandpaper on a flat surface (table) and then I pressed the watch on it while rubbing it. After the paint was completely removed, I did the same operation but using a regular sheet of paper (to add a nice finish on the metal surface).
Please be careful: you have to press the watch against the sandpaper (laid on a flat, hard surface), not the other way around. In this way you leave no room for mistakes and the revealed metal will be uniform and nice, w/o weird edges.
This is the result.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had my watch for a little over a week and don't recall hitting it against anything but this morning noticed my bezel has a scratch longer than half an inch. Doing a Google search brought me here.
I was going to try your method today. I understand using the 600 grit sandpaper to remove the rest of the paint from the bezel but how does the regular paper help the finish? My uneducated guess would have been to try a finer grit sandpaper such as 1200 instead of the paper.
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
ro_explorer said:
You can use whatever finer than 600 you have (even coarser but you may risk it going coarser that that).
Unfortunately, 600 was the finest I had in house at the moment that why I used id. After that though, the metal finish was matte, missing that fine polishing .... there is where the regular paper got into action. If you use a regular laser printer paper sheet, it will act as a very very fine sandpaper, enough to give that fine polishing on the pure metal (aluminium in this case - soft metal, no other reason.
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Click to collapse
You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
dzyuba said:
You sir are a genius - your solution actually makes the watch look better than before the problem.
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Click to collapse
Please tell us what did you do exactly to the watch, step by step. Thanks.
My request to any other people who want to adopt this method, please record a video of the process. Then upload it to youtube and share it with us. Thanks.
The entire process that I used is described in detail in the first post of this thread.
There is also the possibility to use a nail file (there are some guys who did that and the results are quite nice as well).
Guys,
This looks fantastic. Perhaps even better than stock. I've got a 1/4" scratch, so not quite ready to take the plunge...but certainly thinking about it.
-Doc
I should probably post this here also. I managed to ding up my watch pretty badly crashing my skateboard, and a user suggested I try this method. I did it a little differently by finishing with a 3000 grit and using metal polish cream on the exposed metal to give it a nice shine. Here are before and after pictures.
The metal polish is definitely adding a nice touch. Thanks for the info.
// sent from my phone //