Suddenly yesterday I can't insert the stylus in its place to the end. It stuck before it's fully inserted in my Diamond. Trying to explore the problem, surprisingly the RED dot of the reset button is not there. I'm going to disassemble the lower part of the phone to see what the problem is. However, I'm trying to find the lost reset button, but I'm searching for something that I don't know what it looks like.
Can someone be kind enough to post a photo of the reset button while taking the battery cover off?
Thanks a lot.
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SecureGSM said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks you so much foryour swift reply. I'll start searching for it.
Mean while I founf this page for dismantling it but the part I wanted it's not clear as your photo. http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/razbor-htc-touch-diamond/index.html
Thanks again.
ahegazi said:
Suddenly yesterday I can't insert the stylus in its place to the end. It stuck before it's fully inserted in my Diamond. Trying to explore the problem, surprisingly the RED dot of the reset button is not there. I'm going to disassemble the lower part of the phone to see what the problem is. However, I'm trying to find the lost reset button, but I'm searching for something that I don't know what it looks like.
Can someone be kind enough to post a photo of the reset button while taking the battery cover off?
Thanks a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you probably still have waranty you shouldn't disassemble it yourself. Bring it back to the shop you have it from and have them repair your device.
I Fixed It
Finally I was able to fix the problem. Thanks goes to SecureGSM for posting the photo.
After comparing the the photo to my phone and other photos I downloaded it form http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/raz...ond/index.html, I knew what was wrong and I'll try to explain it for the benefit of everybody.
What happen is that a small magnet piece (responsible for holding the stylus) is glued to the phone. And somehow, the it was pulled by the movement of stylus (in & out) and was stuck on the reset button and hide it. !!! very strange.
I had to dismantle the side plastic bar (where the stylus goes in) and re-glued the magned in its place. Then finally assimbled everthing back again.
I just can't believe that the the magnet is fixed with a very weak glue that goes off in less than two weeks of use.
In the attached images I tried to explain how I did it.
ahegazi said:
Finally I was able to fix the problem. Thanks goes to SecureGSM for posting the photo.
After comparing the the photo to my phone and other photos I downloaded it form http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/raz...ond/index.html, I knew what was wrong and I'll try to explain it for the benefit of everybody.
What happen is that a small magnet piece (responsible for holding the stylus) is glued to the phone. And somehow, the it was pulled by the movement of stylus (in & out) and was stuck on the reset button and hide it. !!! very strange.
I had to dismantle the side plastic bar (where the stylus goes in) and re-glued the magned in its place. Then finally assimbled everthing back again.
I just can't believe that the the magnet is fixed with a very weak glue that goes off in less than two weeks of use.
In the attached images I tried to explain how I did it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your description of this problem. I experienced the same problem today with my stylus and saw that the magnet was sticking not on his place, but somewhere inside the backside cover.
I only want to know from you if you removed really all the parts inside the diamond to reach the original place of the magnet? Or is it enough just to unscrew just the 2 screws of the steel plate of the stylus holder?
I have fixed it now without unscrewing anything. You just need small fingers and much patience!
Of course it's better to use a new glue strip, but I used the existing one...
I will see how long it works till the magnet is again placed anywhere in the cover
Hopefully this will not happen again! You just have to watch out, not to use the stylus outside on the right side of the diamond.
I never knew the diamond had a soft reset button till now atleast
On the matter of build/assembly quality - is anyone else finding there pressure sensitive Enter/OK/Select (or whatever you want to call it) key slightly going deeper into the groove of the panel [Home,Back,Answer,End panel)? Mine is no longer sitting flush with the panel and I can feel that it has been 'pushed' in.
Related
Has anyone here installed a new housing on the Dell Streak 5?
It is NOT as easy to do as some phones are.
Here is the basic teardown by ifixit.com
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Dell-Streak-Teardown/3512/1
They do NOT explain how to do the housing change in detail.
They do NOT tell you you have to take these parts off and swap them over:
The rear case houses 7 components that need to be transferred:
LED flash
Headphone jack
Loudspeaker (for speakerphone)
2 Antennas
2 connectors for battery shutoff
Some pop out, some have to be pried off, such as the two battery shutoff & 2 Antennas parts. They also have to be glued to stay in place.
(battery shutoff "red arrows" is what shuts the phone off when the back battery cover is taken off even if battery is still in place)
All pieces need care taking off as they can break easily.
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End results was nice, but I can see how one could brick this phone doing this.
I kept the black battery cover as to set it off and to look different.
I could not transfer the long speaker screen as it was thin and glued in place, so speaker shows.
Here is what it looked like before... kinda bland.
I hope this helps someone.
I'd done the same to one of my streaks and was able to take the speaker mesh to the new casing as well. I used a small exacto knife to get the mesh loose and attached it with a bit of white elmers glue to the new housing, it looks just like a regular streak.
I don't think those two contacts are battery shut off points since the streak has a separate switch to detect battery cover.
Also I just noticed that the camera lens is missing the inner ring, did you carry it over or do you have to get another one?
sanyokt4j said:
I'd done the same to one of my streaks and was able to take the speaker mesh to the new casing as well. I used a small exacto knife to get the mesh loose and attached it with a bit of white elmers glue to the new housing, it looks just like a regular streak.
I don't think those two contacts are battery shut off points since the streak has a separate switch to detect battery cover.
Also I just noticed that the camera lens is missing the inner ring, did you carry it over or do you have to get another one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try starting up the phone without those two contacts...
I transferred the lens inner ring... I put it in backwards.
When I get time, I'll get that mesh out and reverse the inner lens ring....
battery door switch
You can start streak without battery cover if you hold down the switch (use flat piece of metal or something) which is behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket.
one of the tabs on the cover pushes down on this switch when the cover is attached.
It doesn't use those 2 contacts to detect the cover, I think they are just electrical ground for the battery cover.
cm7 allows you to operate the streak with the cover removed so you can unmount/mount sd cards.
it won't boot though because the bootloader detects the cover switch and doesn't bypass it.
Removing the cover doesn't disconnect the battery because you can charge it without the cover and the battery icon appears showing it charging when you plug it in with cover off.
If you put a bit of tape on this switch to permanently hold it down, you can boot and operate the streak without a battery cover at all.
warboat said:
You can start streak without battery cover if you hold down the switch (use flat piece of metal or something) which is behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket.
one of the tabs on the cover pushes down on this switch when the cover is attached.
It doesn't use those 2 contacts to detect the cover, I think they are just electrical ground for the battery cover.
cm7 allows you to operate the streak with the cover removed so you can unmount/mount sd cards.
it won't boot though because the bootloader detects the cover switch and doesn't bypass it.
Removing the cover doesn't disconnect the battery because you can charge it without the cover and the battery icon appears showing it charging when you plug it in with cover off.
If you put a bit of tape on this switch to permanently hold it down, you can boot and operate the streak without a battery cover at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket? should not this be the slit behind the phone's port? i see a tiny 'pressure switch' behind it. i also suffer a sudden none-booting, no-charging scenario too and is trying to figure out what went wrong with my stock device.
Hey guys. My phone has been dropped a "few" times (with silicon casing on).
I was wondering which is the GSM antenna. I want to open it and see if they need better contact or something.
ifixit.com's teardown wasn't exactly informational for my question.
So, thanks in advance
Cryogen said:
Hey guys. My phone has been dropped a "few" times (with silicon casing on).
I was wondering which is the GSM antenna. I want to open it and see if they need better contact or something.
ifixit.com's teardown wasn't exactly informational for my question.
So, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it was the (semi)clickable plate with a copper thing at the right side. It has to be clicked on the motherboard. I hope you know what I mean.
A here it is:
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/images/gsm antenna.JPG
Hi guys, as some of you may have seen my earlier post about my problem with the USB port, here is some guide on how to replace it.
This is the link to my problem with the USB port:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1634683
Surprisingly enough, by simply changing the USB flex, it will fix the problem.
The USB flex looks something like this
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-incredible-s-charging-connector-flex-cable/
You can get it off ebay with the keyword 'incredible s usb flex'
As you know, when you do this your warranty will be VOIDED
First of all I take no responsibility if you device is damaged, you get hurt during the process, or your dog eat your phone, etc etc. Do this on your OWN RISK
Heres the guide on how to open the phone:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/68923799/HTC%20Incredible%20S%20Dissassembly%20-%20Reassembly.pdf
Here is some quick guide on what is relevant to changing the usb flex:
Tools that you need:
-Torx Screw driver T6 (* screwdriver)
-Phillips Scew Driver 00 (Its a really small + screwdriver)
-Tweezers
-Anti static wrist strap
Procedure:
-Step 0 wear the anti static wrist strap
-First remove the battery cover
-Pull out the batter,SIM card, and microSD
-Remove 7 torx screws
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-Open the housing, this can be a little but tricky, just make sure you are gentle with the side, and NEVER pry from the USB port. You might also wanna check for some latches around the phone, make sure you loosen it first before crack open it.
-Remove the volume rocker plastics and the usb housing shield
-Next remove 2 phillips screw on the motherboard (Make sure you remember the position of the screw on the left picture, the first time i did, i put the screw back in the wrong hole)
-When you remove the phillip screw on the right, the headphone housing will come off, make sure you don't lose them.
-Take out the vibrator (you don't have to disconnect them, just remove it from the housing)
-Remove 2 stickers on top of the flex connector
-In the picture above, I indicated the flex connector lock in RED circle. Lift that lock upward very gently, then pull the flex out of the connector. (total of 2 locks and 2 flex)
-Next lift the motherboard, this can be tricky, make sure you lift it from the top side of your phone, and wiggle the motherboard gently toward right direction. The thing that secures the motherboard the the chassis is the housing of the vibrator. Do this carefully as motherboard is a bit fragile.
-Next flip the motherboard around, you have to be careful, there is a flex that connect the lcd to the motherboard, you don't need to remove them, just flip it.
-After you flip the motherboard you will see the usb board, just remove the sticker, unlock the lock, remove the board, replace it with the new one.
You are DONE! Reverse the procedure to assemble and you are good to GO!
If you follow all of my procedure, the only possible problem that you will have is:
-Black screen (The long flex is not secured tightly)
-Home,menu,back,search button didn't light up (The short flex is not secured tightly)
If you have any question just post a quick reply or PM me
Hope this post will help some fellas that have a problem with USB port, if you like it please hit the thanks button.
So...after flapping about for over a year I finally got around to fixing my old HTC. It worked a treat...charging properly and being recognised by the computer again...but THEN, after 3 days of perfect operation, the bloody touchscreen stops responding....new messages pop up and sit there taunting me while I swipe about to no avail.
I've tried few things suggested by the internet, including the one where you hit the screen corners, but no luck.
Is it possible that ive loosened a connection somewhere when I changed the USB flex or is it just a really annoying unrelated coincidence and I should just accept that my phone had reached the end of its life?
I've gone through a few BT keyboards with Android tablets over the last couple of years, and I think I've found the perfect one for the N7:
Perixx PERIBOARD-805, $30 at Amazon
It folds to about 6x3.5" and about 1/2" thick, just a little smaller than the N7's active screen area and about as thick as my landscape stand case when folded. When unfolded, it's kind of small compared to a fullsize or even a standard laptop keyboard, but is still easy to touch type on. The split down the middle is a little awkward at first since some of the keys down the middle have been stretched to fill the gap, but not a problem after a few minutes. It's a full laptop style layout similar to the Apple tenkeyless keyboards, with F1-F10, two sets of CTRL and ALT, ~, ESC, and \ in the right places. The arrow buttons are wedged between "/" and right Shift which looks funny but hasn't been a problem. The FN button also activates a bunch of Android and iOS specific keys, like media/volume controls, lock, wake, home, and search.
Everything seems to work as expected in a terminal (AirTerm and ConnectBot) except I can't get the PGUP/PGDN to work in the terminal (FN-arrow up and down), though they work fine in Google Drive. Not the end of the world, and probably something that editing the keymap can fix.
Keys have decent travel (1.35mm I measured) with a sharp tact for something so cheap, and use a scissor mechanism so they don't wobble much at all. The caps aren't curved, which is the trend for chiclet keyboards. It flexes a tiny bit if you pound on it, but much less than many laptops I've used.
It has two buttons on the inside right: one to power on/off, and one for pairing. You hold the power button for 3 seconds to power it on, then the battery and BT LEDs blink a few times to let you know it's alive. Turning it off is done by holding it for a second or two, but there's no indication that it turned off other than the dropped connection on the N7. I'm not sure if there's an auto power off or how long the battery should last as the manual kind of sucks and I've only had it for a day. It does not turn off when you close it, but if it's like most BT keyboards I've used it sips power until you are actively using it so it might not matter.
It's powered by an internal Li-Ion pack, and charges with micro USB. Not sure on battery life yet, but it's nice to know I don't need to carry an extra charger or AAAs. It ships with a short USB-A to micro USB cable that most of us probably will never open, but a nice touch anyway. It can be charged with the case open or closed, and the charging point is right near the ESC key so that it faces away if you want to charge it while using it.
Unfolded, the case rests on 8 feet: the four surrounding the hinge are bumps in the plastic, and the ones at the corners are rubber to prevent slipping on a desk. When folded, the case has a glossy hex pattern on top of black matte plastic, which is a nice change from plain black gadgets while not being too flashy. It feels sturdy enough to take some abuse at the bottom of a backpack.
Anyway, if none of the other keyboard options are doing it for you, and you want something very portable, get one of these.
Pics:
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Thanks fo the tip, good review!
Might be time to get a keyboard
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
when typing, how long is the delay from when you press a key until it shows up on the tablet?
I've always wondered this with bt keyboards
thanks in advance
Aw man I wish I was able to order from the American Amazon site for deals like this. Curse you Canadian Amazon store and your lousy product selection!
alexjzim said:
when typing, how long is the delay from when you press a key until it shows up on the tablet?
I've always wondered this with bt keyboards
thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It's unnoticeable. In the few BT keyboards I've used this has never been a problem. I wouldn't use it for serious gaming, but if you're of that bent you're not using anything wireless anyway.
Sometimes it takes a few seconds for the keyboard to wake up and connect if it's been idle for a while (usually minutes to hours).
My speakers had become distorted or blown so i bought 2 replacement speakers, i took the phone apart and replaced the lower speaker but when i got to the top speaker i noticed that i had received the wrong speaker. As i wont be getting a replacement speakers for a few days i decided to part reassemble the phone , all ribbon cables have connected, have replaced some but not all of the screws and slightly replaced the rear case but not fully clipped it back in place as i want to be able to easily remove it again once the top speaker has arrived.
Upon powering the phone on i have notice that a certain area of the screen doesn't seem to be responsive any more, it seem to be a vertical area going down the screen where the 'W', 'S' and 'Z' keys are on the keyboard!. Is this because i haven't fully reassembled the phone or have a buggered part of the touch screen when taking the phone apart?
Have downloaded the screen touch test app from the appstore and ran my finger over the screen and you can clearly see where the screen isnt responding....
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Its a veritcal bar running the length of the screen and is perfectly straight!!. Any ideas what could cause this, have i note fitted something correctly back in and its putting pressure on this area of the screen ??
BlockABoots said:
Have downloaded the screen touch test app from the appstore and ran my finger over the screen and you can clearly see where the screen isnt responding....
Its a veritcal bar running the length of the screen and is perfectly straight!!. Any ideas what could cause this, have i note fitted something correctly back in and its putting pressure on this area of the screen ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most likely the digitizer is damaged or the flex cable is damaged
clsA said:
most likely the digitizer is damaged or the flex cable is damaged
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? seems odd as i didnt have any real issues after getting the case off, everything else came apart easily so not sure how the digitizer or flex cable would have got damaged. Is the digitizer easy to replace?
BlockABoots said:
Really? seems odd as i didnt have any real issues after getting the case off, everything else came apart easily so not sure how the digitizer or flex cable would have got damaged. Is the digitizer easy to replace?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you replace the entire led + digitizer + glass all in one or not .. I have never disassembled the phone.
did you have to unhook the screen from the Motherboard ?
clsA said:
I don't know if you replace the entire led + digitizer + glass all in one or not .. I have never disassembled the phone.
did you have to unhook the screen from the Motherboard ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Errr yeah that was a ribbon cable that came from the digitizer/screen to the main board...maybe its just not correctly inserted back in the socket. Odd thing is if i touch the area that seems to be unresponsive i can still get the screen to scroll up and down, just doesnt want to seem to work on the keyboard, If i try and press either the w, s or z keys it just presses the key next to it
Yeah this phone doesn't take to being taken apart very well
It sounds like you damaged your parts disassembling or reassembling the phone.
Hey, looking for some help.
Basically I have an M7 (been happily married to it for nearly 4 years) and cracked the screen on it a few days back. Looked at some teardown videos and decided that id have a go at replacing it myself (new screen of ebay for £16, why not? Also decided that since id have the phone open I would swap out the camera module to try and rid myself of the purple). So long story short, i stripped it down, done everything I needed to do and assembled it all back together again and now when i press the power button nothing happens.
Tried holding it in for 30+ seconds, tried it with vol +/- buttons
When plugged into charge nothing appears on screen and no LEDs at top
When connected to laptop it registers usb connection but doesn't appear in device manager
Wondering if anyone could suggest some 'common' problems during rebuild that may be preventing it from powering on? I have been around all the ribbon connections, they all look good. The wires from the daughter board are all reconnected in their right places, the battery connection is plugged in, the power button too.
Any suggestions welcome
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
hendo141 said:
Update- okay so I've upgraded phone and this is still just lying around and I'm keen to get it going just for my own satisfaction more than anything else. The position I'm in now is that when connected to charge the screen displays the charging symbol and %. So my conclusion is that the screen in fact works and the battery is connected. So my next thought logically would turn to the switch? If the switch is busted this won't allow the phone to power up but is there a way to bypass the switch and see or do I just need to replace that part and see what happens?
Am I also corrected in assuming that if the battery is charging and showing the symbol and percentage that the motherboard is working or would it show that even if the motherboard was compromised?
Again any advice will be appreciated
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
alray said:
I'm also thinking of a bad power switch, maybe the flex cable? Battery charging is handled by the recovery kernel so I don't see any reason to suspect a bad MB atm. It's always hard to help ppl in your situation, without being able to see the device. It can be anything that was damaged during the repair Afaik, there is nothing you can do to power on the phone without a working button.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for your input. Glad im thinking along the right lines at least. A new switch is only a couple of pounds so i'll take a chance on changing that if you reckon that the rest of the components should be in working order. I'll update on the outcome
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
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The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
hendo141 said:
So a new power switch was not the answer
Just trying to think where to look next. Sorry im still pretty much a noob when it comes to the actual inners of a phone but ive taken a photo and circled areas where I suspect there may have been damage.
The small silver wire to the right of the camera unit, not sure what it does but it looks to be a link between the MB and DB. Pretty sure i kinked that while rebuilding.
The big flex to the left of the camera, this looks to be the main link between the MB/DB. Not sure if this is damaged but ive highlighted it as the outer edge is a little rough (not sure if this would be enough damage to stop it from working?)
Finally there is the bottom left flex. The one in the middle above the main battery connection. I done a little damage in the teardown and broke a bit of the clip (again not sure if this damage would stop it from working since the contacts seem to be fine). Not 100% on what this flex does but it looks like it serves the bottom end of the phone (usb terminal, mic, speaker etc...)
Once again all input welcome and appreciated,
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Could be anything like a damaged cable, connector or even ESD damage. Btw I don't really understand why you didn't mentioned your damaged cable/connector before, I would replace parts that I know they got damaged during the repair before trying other parts...
Don't waste to much money on this, you can find the M7 for less than 100$ on ebay