Hi guys, as some of you may have seen my earlier post about my problem with the USB port, here is some guide on how to replace it.
This is the link to my problem with the USB port:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1634683
Surprisingly enough, by simply changing the USB flex, it will fix the problem.
The USB flex looks something like this
http://www.parts4repair.com/htc-incredible-s-charging-connector-flex-cable/
You can get it off ebay with the keyword 'incredible s usb flex'
As you know, when you do this your warranty will be VOIDED
First of all I take no responsibility if you device is damaged, you get hurt during the process, or your dog eat your phone, etc etc. Do this on your OWN RISK
Heres the guide on how to open the phone:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/68923799/HTC%20Incredible%20S%20Dissassembly%20-%20Reassembly.pdf
Here is some quick guide on what is relevant to changing the usb flex:
Tools that you need:
-Torx Screw driver T6 (* screwdriver)
-Phillips Scew Driver 00 (Its a really small + screwdriver)
-Tweezers
-Anti static wrist strap
Procedure:
-Step 0 wear the anti static wrist strap
-First remove the battery cover
-Pull out the batter,SIM card, and microSD
-Remove 7 torx screws
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-Open the housing, this can be a little but tricky, just make sure you are gentle with the side, and NEVER pry from the USB port. You might also wanna check for some latches around the phone, make sure you loosen it first before crack open it.
-Remove the volume rocker plastics and the usb housing shield
-Next remove 2 phillips screw on the motherboard (Make sure you remember the position of the screw on the left picture, the first time i did, i put the screw back in the wrong hole)
-When you remove the phillip screw on the right, the headphone housing will come off, make sure you don't lose them.
-Take out the vibrator (you don't have to disconnect them, just remove it from the housing)
-Remove 2 stickers on top of the flex connector
-In the picture above, I indicated the flex connector lock in RED circle. Lift that lock upward very gently, then pull the flex out of the connector. (total of 2 locks and 2 flex)
-Next lift the motherboard, this can be tricky, make sure you lift it from the top side of your phone, and wiggle the motherboard gently toward right direction. The thing that secures the motherboard the the chassis is the housing of the vibrator. Do this carefully as motherboard is a bit fragile.
-Next flip the motherboard around, you have to be careful, there is a flex that connect the lcd to the motherboard, you don't need to remove them, just flip it.
-After you flip the motherboard you will see the usb board, just remove the sticker, unlock the lock, remove the board, replace it with the new one.
You are DONE! Reverse the procedure to assemble and you are good to GO!
If you follow all of my procedure, the only possible problem that you will have is:
-Black screen (The long flex is not secured tightly)
-Home,menu,back,search button didn't light up (The short flex is not secured tightly)
If you have any question just post a quick reply or PM me
Hope this post will help some fellas that have a problem with USB port, if you like it please hit the thanks button.
So...after flapping about for over a year I finally got around to fixing my old HTC. It worked a treat...charging properly and being recognised by the computer again...but THEN, after 3 days of perfect operation, the bloody touchscreen stops responding....new messages pop up and sit there taunting me while I swipe about to no avail.
I've tried few things suggested by the internet, including the one where you hit the screen corners, but no luck.
Is it possible that ive loosened a connection somewhere when I changed the USB flex or is it just a really annoying unrelated coincidence and I should just accept that my phone had reached the end of its life?
Related
Suddenly yesterday I can't insert the stylus in its place to the end. It stuck before it's fully inserted in my Diamond. Trying to explore the problem, surprisingly the RED dot of the reset button is not there. I'm going to disassemble the lower part of the phone to see what the problem is. However, I'm trying to find the lost reset button, but I'm searching for something that I don't know what it looks like.
Can someone be kind enough to post a photo of the reset button while taking the battery cover off?
Thanks a lot.
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SecureGSM said:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks you so much foryour swift reply. I'll start searching for it.
Mean while I founf this page for dismantling it but the part I wanted it's not clear as your photo. http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/razbor-htc-touch-diamond/index.html
Thanks again.
ahegazi said:
Suddenly yesterday I can't insert the stylus in its place to the end. It stuck before it's fully inserted in my Diamond. Trying to explore the problem, surprisingly the RED dot of the reset button is not there. I'm going to disassemble the lower part of the phone to see what the problem is. However, I'm trying to find the lost reset button, but I'm searching for something that I don't know what it looks like.
Can someone be kind enough to post a photo of the reset button while taking the battery cover off?
Thanks a lot.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As you probably still have waranty you shouldn't disassemble it yourself. Bring it back to the shop you have it from and have them repair your device.
I Fixed It
Finally I was able to fix the problem. Thanks goes to SecureGSM for posting the photo.
After comparing the the photo to my phone and other photos I downloaded it form http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/raz...ond/index.html, I knew what was wrong and I'll try to explain it for the benefit of everybody.
What happen is that a small magnet piece (responsible for holding the stylus) is glued to the phone. And somehow, the it was pulled by the movement of stylus (in & out) and was stuck on the reset button and hide it. !!! very strange.
I had to dismantle the side plastic bar (where the stylus goes in) and re-glued the magned in its place. Then finally assimbled everthing back again.
I just can't believe that the the magnet is fixed with a very weak glue that goes off in less than two weeks of use.
In the attached images I tried to explain how I did it.
ahegazi said:
Finally I was able to fix the problem. Thanks goes to SecureGSM for posting the photo.
After comparing the the photo to my phone and other photos I downloaded it form http://www.pdacenter.ru/razborka/raz...ond/index.html, I knew what was wrong and I'll try to explain it for the benefit of everybody.
What happen is that a small magnet piece (responsible for holding the stylus) is glued to the phone. And somehow, the it was pulled by the movement of stylus (in & out) and was stuck on the reset button and hide it. !!! very strange.
I had to dismantle the side plastic bar (where the stylus goes in) and re-glued the magned in its place. Then finally assimbled everthing back again.
I just can't believe that the the magnet is fixed with a very weak glue that goes off in less than two weeks of use.
In the attached images I tried to explain how I did it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much for your description of this problem. I experienced the same problem today with my stylus and saw that the magnet was sticking not on his place, but somewhere inside the backside cover.
I only want to know from you if you removed really all the parts inside the diamond to reach the original place of the magnet? Or is it enough just to unscrew just the 2 screws of the steel plate of the stylus holder?
I have fixed it now without unscrewing anything. You just need small fingers and much patience!
Of course it's better to use a new glue strip, but I used the existing one...
I will see how long it works till the magnet is again placed anywhere in the cover
Hopefully this will not happen again! You just have to watch out, not to use the stylus outside on the right side of the diamond.
I never knew the diamond had a soft reset button till now atleast
On the matter of build/assembly quality - is anyone else finding there pressure sensitive Enter/OK/Select (or whatever you want to call it) key slightly going deeper into the groove of the panel [Home,Back,Answer,End panel)? Mine is no longer sitting flush with the panel and I can feel that it has been 'pushed' in.
Has anyone here installed a new housing on the Dell Streak 5?
It is NOT as easy to do as some phones are.
Here is the basic teardown by ifixit.com
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Dell-Streak-Teardown/3512/1
They do NOT explain how to do the housing change in detail.
They do NOT tell you you have to take these parts off and swap them over:
The rear case houses 7 components that need to be transferred:
LED flash
Headphone jack
Loudspeaker (for speakerphone)
2 Antennas
2 connectors for battery shutoff
Some pop out, some have to be pried off, such as the two battery shutoff & 2 Antennas parts. They also have to be glued to stay in place.
(battery shutoff "red arrows" is what shuts the phone off when the back battery cover is taken off even if battery is still in place)
All pieces need care taking off as they can break easily.
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End results was nice, but I can see how one could brick this phone doing this.
I kept the black battery cover as to set it off and to look different.
I could not transfer the long speaker screen as it was thin and glued in place, so speaker shows.
Here is what it looked like before... kinda bland.
I hope this helps someone.
I'd done the same to one of my streaks and was able to take the speaker mesh to the new casing as well. I used a small exacto knife to get the mesh loose and attached it with a bit of white elmers glue to the new housing, it looks just like a regular streak.
I don't think those two contacts are battery shut off points since the streak has a separate switch to detect battery cover.
Also I just noticed that the camera lens is missing the inner ring, did you carry it over or do you have to get another one?
sanyokt4j said:
I'd done the same to one of my streaks and was able to take the speaker mesh to the new casing as well. I used a small exacto knife to get the mesh loose and attached it with a bit of white elmers glue to the new housing, it looks just like a regular streak.
I don't think those two contacts are battery shut off points since the streak has a separate switch to detect battery cover.
Also I just noticed that the camera lens is missing the inner ring, did you carry it over or do you have to get another one?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try starting up the phone without those two contacts...
I transferred the lens inner ring... I put it in backwards.
When I get time, I'll get that mesh out and reverse the inner lens ring....
battery door switch
You can start streak without battery cover if you hold down the switch (use flat piece of metal or something) which is behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket.
one of the tabs on the cover pushes down on this switch when the cover is attached.
It doesn't use those 2 contacts to detect the cover, I think they are just electrical ground for the battery cover.
cm7 allows you to operate the streak with the cover removed so you can unmount/mount sd cards.
it won't boot though because the bootloader detects the cover switch and doesn't bypass it.
Removing the cover doesn't disconnect the battery because you can charge it without the cover and the battery icon appears showing it charging when you plug it in with cover off.
If you put a bit of tape on this switch to permanently hold it down, you can boot and operate the streak without a battery cover at all.
warboat said:
You can start streak without battery cover if you hold down the switch (use flat piece of metal or something) which is behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket.
one of the tabs on the cover pushes down on this switch when the cover is attached.
It doesn't use those 2 contacts to detect the cover, I think they are just electrical ground for the battery cover.
cm7 allows you to operate the streak with the cover removed so you can unmount/mount sd cards.
it won't boot though because the bootloader detects the cover switch and doesn't bypass it.
Removing the cover doesn't disconnect the battery because you can charge it without the cover and the battery icon appears showing it charging when you plug it in with cover off.
If you put a bit of tape on this switch to permanently hold it down, you can boot and operate the streak without a battery cover at all.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
behind the little slit nearest the earphone socket? should not this be the slit behind the phone's port? i see a tiny 'pressure switch' behind it. i also suffer a sudden none-booting, no-charging scenario too and is trying to figure out what went wrong with my stock device.
Hey guys. My phone has been dropped a "few" times (with silicon casing on).
I was wondering which is the GSM antenna. I want to open it and see if they need better contact or something.
ifixit.com's teardown wasn't exactly informational for my question.
So, thanks in advance
Cryogen said:
Hey guys. My phone has been dropped a "few" times (with silicon casing on).
I was wondering which is the GSM antenna. I want to open it and see if they need better contact or something.
ifixit.com's teardown wasn't exactly informational for my question.
So, thanks in advance
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I thought it was the (semi)clickable plate with a copper thing at the right side. It has to be clicked on the motherboard. I hope you know what I mean.
A here it is:
http://www.dellstreakrepairs.co.uk/images/gsm antenna.JPG
I got bored and my battery was having issues where it doesn't update correctly on the status bar so I decided to open the tablet up.
Everything seem to be in place and no loose wires, Here we go. Attempt this at your own risk.
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--> Remove the screws in each housing where the dock will go. Be careful the screws are very small.
--> Stick that screw driver in there. after removing the screw, use the screwdriver to push on the screen upward from inside the housing. Push gently.
And you can go along the screen with a plastic prier to lift the rest of the screen. Once you done that
--> Here's the inside.
--> lift up the white strip tab to remove the cable. Be Gentle ( located on the left side of the tablet )
--> Lift up the black strip tab to remove the cable. Be Gentle ( located on the back of the screen )
--> removing these cables will disconnect the screen from the tablet itself.
--> A interesting find. The metal housing where the dock goes was loose when i opened up the tablet. (I dont have a dock yet) so the housing was loose out of the box. This is probably what was causing all the loose locking mechanism for the tablet and dock. (Dat arrow)
Terrible quality control by Asus :|
Wow, I could have used this about 24 hours ago. I ended up just winging it anyway, I was actually regretting not taking pictures so I could post a teardown like you just did.
I was also going to post the possible WiFi fix I attempted. When the tablet is opened up, there are four little springy tabs (pogos?) on the top right corner of the motherboard that connect to the screen when assembled (two for WiFi, two for GPS). My suspicion is that they were not connecting fully from the motherboard to the back of the screen. I had been having problems with WiFi dropping out which coincidentaly started around the time my tablet developed screen click. In an attempt to fix the screen click, I pressed firmly around the bezzel which I suspect pushed my pins down far enough to create connection issues.
What I did was simply stretch the pins back out towards the screen contacts. It did seem to help a little bit, but I have been brainstorming a better way to ensure contact.
All that being said I am no developer. I got the idea from here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vgx2Kpfi-Ps
Also, I take no responsibility if you try this method, and break your device.
Ok I've figured out the Bluetooth and wifi problems.
There are two boards in the ZR. Main board 1 has CPU and most stuff. Second board 2 seems to just act as a sound card/connector board.
The second board has conductive contacts to the top board (bluetooth) and to the WiFi aerial in the frame.
However, second board is not glued or fixed in position, it is free to pivot and move toward and away from frame and main board. This means over time or with knocks, heat etc. the second board tilts, disconnecting the contacts. Bluetooth and WiFi both go because the connections are in opposite corners, though WiFi has better contact because the board is better positioned in that corner.
It was an Idiot who designed this connection, the second board should have been sitting on plastic shelf or spacers, not floating around in there.
FIX
You'll need to open phone - guide here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vz7Dwu_ItpM.
You don't need to disconnect second board. I used stacks of the screen adhesive and placed under the corners of the second board. This holds second board in position and forces up against top board. You'll need to experiment with the right height of the stacks. In addition I suggest placing conductive copper tape squares on the second board's conductive square (2) and the frame's two conductive squares under the opposite corner.
Reassemble, test and see if it's fixed. :fingers-crossed:
I've attached pictures showing the bluetooth pin 1 that needs to contact the conductive plate 2.
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My Bluetooth and wifi are now fixed. Yay.
PS, don't blame me if this doesn't work for you or if you break screen disassembling.
Is your bluetooth still working ??
wifi
if you please tell me where is the wifi position?
Sold phone, presume so.
ady3004 said:
if you please tell me where is the wifi position?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Wifi is under bottom board in opposite corner to the square labeled 2. I think there are two pins under there.
Silverdace said:
Wifi is under bottom board in opposite corner to the square labeled 2. I think there are two pins under there.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Bottom right corner when looking at the picture.
My speakers had become distorted or blown so i bought 2 replacement speakers, i took the phone apart and replaced the lower speaker but when i got to the top speaker i noticed that i had received the wrong speaker. As i wont be getting a replacement speakers for a few days i decided to part reassemble the phone , all ribbon cables have connected, have replaced some but not all of the screws and slightly replaced the rear case but not fully clipped it back in place as i want to be able to easily remove it again once the top speaker has arrived.
Upon powering the phone on i have notice that a certain area of the screen doesn't seem to be responsive any more, it seem to be a vertical area going down the screen where the 'W', 'S' and 'Z' keys are on the keyboard!. Is this because i haven't fully reassembled the phone or have a buggered part of the touch screen when taking the phone apart?
Have downloaded the screen touch test app from the appstore and ran my finger over the screen and you can clearly see where the screen isnt responding....
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Its a veritcal bar running the length of the screen and is perfectly straight!!. Any ideas what could cause this, have i note fitted something correctly back in and its putting pressure on this area of the screen ??
BlockABoots said:
Have downloaded the screen touch test app from the appstore and ran my finger over the screen and you can clearly see where the screen isnt responding....
Its a veritcal bar running the length of the screen and is perfectly straight!!. Any ideas what could cause this, have i note fitted something correctly back in and its putting pressure on this area of the screen ??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
most likely the digitizer is damaged or the flex cable is damaged
clsA said:
most likely the digitizer is damaged or the flex cable is damaged
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Really? seems odd as i didnt have any real issues after getting the case off, everything else came apart easily so not sure how the digitizer or flex cable would have got damaged. Is the digitizer easy to replace?
BlockABoots said:
Really? seems odd as i didnt have any real issues after getting the case off, everything else came apart easily so not sure how the digitizer or flex cable would have got damaged. Is the digitizer easy to replace?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know if you replace the entire led + digitizer + glass all in one or not .. I have never disassembled the phone.
did you have to unhook the screen from the Motherboard ?
clsA said:
I don't know if you replace the entire led + digitizer + glass all in one or not .. I have never disassembled the phone.
did you have to unhook the screen from the Motherboard ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Errr yeah that was a ribbon cable that came from the digitizer/screen to the main board...maybe its just not correctly inserted back in the socket. Odd thing is if i touch the area that seems to be unresponsive i can still get the screen to scroll up and down, just doesnt want to seem to work on the keyboard, If i try and press either the w, s or z keys it just presses the key next to it
Yeah this phone doesn't take to being taken apart very well
It sounds like you damaged your parts disassembling or reassembling the phone.