I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't
I had problems with my U and C key which it was a pain when entering a number u know U is 2 and well it made the whole experience longer and frustrating. after doing this trick (using a chopstick) my c and u keys work perfect... Now I can resume my mobile life... good luck to anyone else! and thanks Candanga!
Thanks for the trick! I'm going to try it if I have problems.
good fix man....i've got it to work with all of my keys EXCEPT for the down arrow/PgDn button....but i had been having problems with my u, p, i, s, and v keys, and using ur "fix" they work like new again.....
living in Louisiana, its probably also the humidity affecting my keys....thanks!
Good method -- thought I wander how long it will last
If your phone is out-of-warranty, and your feel adventurous (and want to run the risk of damaging the phone) you might consider taking the keyboard apart and carefully cleaning with some diluted isopropyl alcohol. This would likely give you a long-lasting result, though of course you risk damaging the phone, yada yada.
Another thing to consider is my patented what-the-hell-it-might-work method. WARNING I have not tried this on a Kaiser, it is based on something I did with an older device with a keyboard. (NEC MobilePro 780)
AS USUAL, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Turn the phone off by holding down the power button. remove the battery, sim card, storage card, etc. Put some DILUTED isopropyl alcohol in a small spray bottle, then spray it onto the keyboard. (I'd protect the screen and the rest of the phone as much as possible.) Let the alcohol pool up and get into the cracks of the keyboard. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel, then proceed to work each key much as described in previous post.
When you've had it, just let the phone sit for at least 24 hours so the alcohol evaporates completely. Replace the battery etc and see if it will start up, then test the keyboard
WARNING, the alcohol may damage the electronics, mar the finish of the plastic, etc. USE the 70% stuff, NOT the 90%
+1! Good advice. Worked for me.
it really works on my Australian TYTN II
bennyzhou said:
it really works on my Australian TYTN II
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed on my Tilt I got from a San Francisco ATT store. Jeez. Nice.
I have always hated my G key. I use it plenty, but not often like an a or an e key, often enough that it's always on my mind, the anger that I will have to hit that stupid g key harder because it thinks it's special
No more. It works great. It's not special. I still hate it though, simply because I've always hated it.
Boycott G
Works great, thanks Candanga! My "s" key was not working unless I pressed it with force, now with your simple fix it's back to normal again.
PS. I too live in a humid environment.
Cleaning Keyboard on Kaiser
Well, this is my first post and hopes this help to the community that has problems while using the Keyboard.
This is my story. I bought a Tilt on ebay and after trying using it some keys did not work correctly. In order to use the keyboard I use a combination of the on screen keyboard and the keyboard. Then I ask myself, why am I doing this? Why am I needed to use a combination of the keyboard?
Time ago I work in a company that assembly Cellular, so I know the process and when a problem with the keyboard happen most of the time was because dust or fingerprint on the contacts while trying to assemble it.
What I did to solve the problem on my Kaiser was to do a deep clean of the keyboard. I follow the instruction of how to disassembly the phone [/URL]in order to take out the keyboard. Then I put the keyboard in an ultrasonic cleaner with alcohol for 10min. After that I reassembly the phone and try. But guess what, the keyboard gets worst, before that, there were a couple of keys that did not works but after clean it or try to clean it there were like 10 keys that did not work. Oh... dam it.
It could not be like this. I decide to give it a second chance to fix it but I did it in a different way.
The first thing I did was to remove the keypad. It was not so hard because the gum was kind of weak because the alcohol I use with the ultrasonic.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Second, I removed the contact pad with small tweezers being careful to not damage the contact pads.
After letting naked the keyboard I realized that the gum used to stick the contact pads were spread on the flex board and that was the reason of the hard keys or problematic keys.
Third, What I did was to clean the flex board and the contact pad perfectly with alcohol and swaps being careful of clean each contact.
Then I stick the contact pads again to the flex board and checking that it was aligned perfectly.
And last, Stick the keyboard.
Since 4 weeks I have been using the keyboard without problems.
My experience is that was not needed to disassemble the phone, just only disassembly the keyboard and clean the contacts.
Candanga said:
I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
worked for me
Maddening key press method works
My down arrow was not working. Searching on the web, I got a link for this and I pressed the keys two dozen times before it worked! Thanks!
totally works as advertised!
I used the eraser-end of a pencil to do the pushing, and the results are fantastic!
Related
I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.
Mike Channon has much information on this, here is one link, you need to search for the rest.
http://michael-channon.mobile.spaces.live.com/ent.aspx?h=cns!4472423472DCFC38!287&fp=/top.aspx
Thanks for that, but the his guides are the ones I followed already...
Been searching for ages, all I need is one person who knows what the problem is. Is that too much to ask?
I'll keep trying for now.
Thanks again. Anyone have any other ideas they are more than welcome. Any Ideas at all. I'm desperate to sort this out!
Bumpity bump....
My intuition tells me you will have to take it back apart and look for the problem in, on or near the sliding mechanism and sensor. I'd bet you just re-assembled it a little incorrectly thus activating the slide sound and screen flip sensor. Perhaps a pinched wire or something...either way it needs to come back apart and examined closely. Or maybe I am wrong and someone else has a better idea..hope so!
Best of luck to ya!
Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.
matmaneyre said:
Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i understand, there are magnets that trigger screen rotation. Im sure your going to ask me were they are, and my answer is have no idea. But my best quess is under the screen and one under the keyboard. So I hope I have helped you.
That would make sense actually, thanks for that. Now to grab my T6 screwdriver and start again...
Ok, so now I get the general gist of how the screen orientation mechanism works with the magnets, I have since found one magnet underneath the screen, but I still cannot find what this magnet relates to in order to switch the screen orientation. i have checked both of my housings and the main board but still to no avail. If anyone else understands this mechanism a bit better, any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm getting closer, but still not quite there!
matmaneyre said:
I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, don't build up your hopes based on the following - it is by way of things to look for ONLY.
I have not made by own detailed pics of the Kaiser so far and I have not located the magnet or receiver switch - mainly 'cos I wasn't looking for them.
However here is the TyTn / Hermes. It MAY be similar to the Kaiser so it MAY give you ideas on what to look for/check.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Not the nost impressive looking thing is it!!
This is what a magnet sensor switch looks like. But importantly it will obviously need to be connected to the circuit either by ribbon cable or directly onto the m/board. In the case of the Hermes above it is on the KEYBOARD ribbon cable - so on the opposite side of the above is this:-
Thus we can see that sliding the keyboard across the sensor operates a switch built into thye keyboard ribbon cable.
Now, I'm not sure exactly where you located the magnet, but is it possible that it has come loose and is no longer in the correct position.
Check ribbon cables for a switch.
I will dismantle and take pics to show all this, but unfortunately the coming week is a bit hectic so next weekend may be the first opportunity - you may beat me to it!!
Mike
Update (for Kaiser): The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.
Update: Kaiser specific.
The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.
Mike
Excellent Mike. Thanks so much.
Now it makes a huge amount of sense, but please don't dismantle your tytn II for my sake in case you encounter more unecessary problems. I know exactly what I'm looking for now from your pictures of the Tytn/Hermes. In fact, I've already seen it, I just didn't know what it was before. It is located right at the very bottom of the keyboard attached to the end of a ribbon. I know the magnet I found is definitely in the right place as I didn't even notice it before KD8DNS mentioned the magnet mechanism and it is fixed in place.
To help others who may encounter this, I will upload a pic of the switch and magnet ASAP. I'm using Vista on a laptop at the moment which I don't connect my device to so I'll do that on my XP desktop when I can. I will also post my findings as and when (or if!).
Thanks a buch mikechannon! Just what I was after.
EDIT>> Also thanks to KD8DNS! (almost forgot)
Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.
matmaneyre said:
Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong but I have the feeling this is not something major. If you open the keyboard and pass a magnet around the "A" key - does it rotate the screen?
Mike
I appreciate your enthusiasm, Mike, but it is impossibe to 'open up' the keyboard without disconnecting the battery, as the frame around the keyboard also holds the battey in.
I was right though..you were the best person to ask!
I will see what I can do (i.e holding the battery on manually while tesing the switch, although this is a little awkward). If this doesn't work, I would say both of the switches that I have available to test with are faulty. How likely is that?
Well after all that it was all in vain...while trying to fix my kaiser I dropped it, smashing the screen 2 smitherines. As a result, the touch screen doesn't work, the memory card isn't recognised & it won't charge or sync. I had all the case off at the time so the impact between the components & the floor was brutal. Not 2 worry tho, as the missus insisted I buy a new one, so,with permission, I've just ordered a Touch Pro. Better not tell her how much it cost eh?
Thanks to mikechannon in particular & all other people who had an input on this. I never managed 2 solve it but I'm sure if I'd had more time I'd have cracked it in the end (& I don't mean the LCD, I managed that!)
So this is goodbye from me to the Kaiser forum. Just gotta wait for a Touch Pro one now!!!
Thanks 2 all again.
Matmaneyre
HTC Kaiser 28/01/08 - 09/07/08 - R.I.P.
So My GPS randomly stopped working completely one day and so I started doing research on ways to improve it. I literally tried everything from application quick fixes, leaving my phone sitting outside for hours on end, ROM fixes... ext and nothing helped at all. I finally came across this article and, since I had nothing to lose at this point, I gave it a shot. When I finished, i got GPS fix within 2 seconds! This option is not for everyone, I really suggest making sure that the software/application fixes don't help first because taking apart your phone certainly has its risks but if you are like me and nothing has been working, there is hope!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Galaxy-S4-GPS-repair/
Check this article out and give me a shout out if it worked for you too.
Credit to bobyong808 from instructables.com for writing this article.
harrisd23
Keep in mind that the disassembly process is slightly different since we are talking about actives, but I just looked up another article showing how to remove the back of the active and jumped to step 3.
Thanks man, you nailed it! (I just signed up here to show my appreciation for your post, because otherwise I would probably not have come across the solution at all)
I had been somewhat unhappy with my s4a's gps performance since I bought the phone. It usually worked, but often needed 2-3 minutes for the first fix and often lost signal for a few minutes intermittently. Today I opened it up and noticed that the GPS antenna (or what I believe to be the GPS antenna) had apparently never been properly connected to the board. The springs had left no marks on the other side of the contacts (completely blank and spotless), unlike in all the other places where there are connections from the board to the midframe. Then I put a small, folded piece of tinfoil in as suggested in the link you posted and woohoo, only a few seconds now until I get my first fix outside and it can sometimes even get a fix inside my flat (a few meters away from the window at least, with 3 more floors above me), whereas before i had to hold my phone out of the window for that.
Now I am also curious whether or not that will reduce the heavy battery drain of gps logging while hiking in the mountains.
Also thanks for the hint about not following the disassembly instructions directly, since it seems one can easily break the midframe if unaware of the plastic clip above the battery holder. I used these instructions:
h t t p s : / /uuu.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Active/37470
With them and the appropriate tools, even I (theoretical physicist with thumbs on all fingers) found it easy to carry the task out.
(Sorry for the urls, I am not yet allowed to post links here, so replace uuu by www)
Also note that I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
h t t p s : / /uuu.youtube.com/watch?v=zm4f2XjQLAM
(at least that is where I put my tinfoil, maybe I am wrong and the effect I experience soley stems from me tightening the screws harder than they were before?)
Alright, now excuse me please, I have to catch that Pokemon which apparently spawned in my bathroom
My pleasure, glad I could help!
longpu said:
Thanks man, you nailed it! (I just signed up here to show my appreciation for your post, because otherwise I would probably not have come across the solution at all)
I had been somewhat unhappy with my s4a's gps performance since I bought the phone. It usually worked, but often needed 2-3 minutes for the first fix and often lost signal for a few minutes intermittently. Today I opened it up and noticed that the GPS antenna (or what I believe to be the GPS antenna) had apparently never been properly connected to the board. The springs had left no marks on the other side of the contacts (completely blank and spotless), unlike in all the other places where there are connections from the board to the midframe. Then I put a small, folded piece of tinfoil in as suggested in the link you posted and woohoo, only a few seconds now until I get my first fix outside and it can sometimes even get a fix inside my flat (a few meters away from the window at least, with 3 more floors above me), whereas before i had to hold my phone out of the window for that.
Now I am also curious whether or not that will reduce the heavy battery drain of gps logging while hiking in the mountains.
Also thanks for the hint about not following the disassembly instructions directly, since it seems one can easily break the midframe if unaware of the plastic clip above the battery holder. I used these instructions:
h t t p s : / /uuu.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Active/37470
With them and the appropriate tools, even I (theoretical physicist with thumbs on all fingers) found it easy to carry the task out.
(Sorry for the urls, I am not yet allowed to post links here, so replace uuu by www)
Also note that I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
h t t p s : / /uuu.youtube.com/watch?v=zm4f2XjQLAM
(at least that is where I put my tinfoil, maybe I am wrong and the effect I experience soley stems from me tightening the screws harder than they were before?)
Alright, now excuse me please, I have to catch that Pokemon which apparently spawned in my bathroom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
longpu said:
I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Much obliged for that!
I was able to download a service manual that appears to be an inside document bundle of Samsung. The GPS antenna is named 'ANT200', and it is in fact, on the other side of the PCB (left size, when looking at the PCB from the battery side of the phone, with the rear plastic assembly removed.)
Previously I tried the GPS fix by adding aluminum foils on the two other antenna connectors, which did not fix my GPS. adding the alumium on this single connector made a difference. (I actually also took it back out, to make sure this really helps.) However, still takes a while to get a fix. at least with my phone held outside my apartment.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Got my Nexus 6 in Dec '14, and have taken pretty good care of it. Hardly ever dropped, pretty much always in a protective case (but never used a screen protector and my screen isn't scratched or damaged)...
But just started having issue where when making phone call, the screen goes off, and couldn't get it back on.
After some searching, found the issue is the same as shown on this Youtube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sguXflichEo
The screen/glass is coming up (raised) around the perimeter of the phone, esp in the top left corner (where proximity sensor is) and bottom right corner.
A sensor app (didn't use the same one as on the video but similar app called 'Sensors Test') shows proximity always at NEAR. If I press down on the glass/screen near the edge, can get it to change to FAR. Takes a decent amount of pressure. So, I can get the screen to come on during a call by doing that (and I guess could then switch to speakerphone, if I need to use screen for things like DTMF tones, etc)
Tried looking for how I can fix this and didn't really find anything. Anyone know how to get the screen back where it belongs? Was it glued at factory?
Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...
5.1 said:
Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread (and lots of posts in a thread on the Google Product Support Forum) about the issue of screen protector interfering with the proximity sensor - but that is not my problem.
The proximity sensor works - it's the physical 'warping' of the screen coming up/apart from the rest of the phone. It's not a lot - casual looking at the phone you wouldn't notice - but on close inspection it is very noticeable.
My Fix (not sure for how long)...
I really wanted a solution without a disassembly of the phone (I'm pretty sure there's some glue or adhesive involved in keeping the screen assembly where it's supposed to be - as I examined my phone more closely, I could see remnant of it I think)... Just as I could press down on the screen and move it a few mm down where it should be, I could use fingernail and increase the gap. So, I decided to try something a bit risky : Gorilla Glue! (GG) I've used GG on lots of things, and enough to know not only is the stuff pretty incredible, but that it expands. Also it requires a bit of moisture in initial application.
So, using a moist paper towel, I put a very little bit of GG (drops), and then using fingernail, increased the gap enough to get just a tiny amount of GG at the left top corner of the screen, and then used a plastic spring-loaded clamp to keep the screen in place for 12+ hours. Also carefully wiped whatever trace of GG I could find immediately after putting the clamp on.
The result when turning phone back on: Proximity sensor correctly distinguishing between near and far - in other words - it works! Don't know how long this will last. And the glue/screen is still coming up in other areas that I did not try to fix...
Here's a photo of the opposite corner of the phone where you can see the screen coming up:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
and the clamp I used for the glue fix (it's tricky using a clamp with the curved back on the phone - had to place it nearer the center/speaker area)
I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:
5.1 said:
I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, there's no scratch - the phone really is good condition (I used a cam to take that shot in macro mode so I think there is some out-of-focus/reflection).
In searching about this, it seems that original manufacture of phone used adhesive on the screen/digitizer and others have had this problem. I'd imagine the environment the phone is in can contribute.
And also, possibly, for me - the case I was using might have contributed - this Moku multi-part case has a hard plastic that grips the phone at the 4 corners and is not easy to remove. Now that I know, I'm going to use much more care when removing this. (Also, was using a magnetic card mount and had the metal disc between the phone and the silicone case and had to remove the outer hard plastic to use in the car. Recently changed that to putting the disc on the outside so longer have to remove it so frequently - only if I want to change sim card...)
https://www.amazon.com/Nexus-Case-Absorption-Scratchproof-Protective/dp/B00E4RV8DS/ref=sr_1_4?
Hi Guys
Sad situation (as my P9 was always kept in a case and after almost a year still looks like new/mint condition) where I have dropped my phone to a bath, and phone went under the water for around 2-3 seconds (was still in protective case).
It has received some water through jack (headphones) socket, charging port and through the speaker crate.
As soon as I have rescued it, I have took all the water off the phone using towel and placed it quickly on a radiator/heater.
Unfortunately, did no have any rice to put the phone into a bowl of rice (don't even know if that is the best way).
Phone did act like it's absolutely fine, had some notifications that headphones are connected, but I remember when once I spilled some water on my desk and had one of the work iPhones on this desk, it was having same/similar issue for couple of hours (as water did come in contact with headphones port), but the problem did resolve itself after some time.
Same happened with Huawei P9. The headphones port has started to work after some time without any action taken from my side.
After that, I did have a situation where my P9 dropped on the floor and it has received some scratches (same day, an unlucky day).
Went home, connected phone to the charger and left it overnight.
In a morning found that it is only showing 40% (charging, but 40%).
On unplugging, it does stay on 40% for some time, it does not indicate any power loss after time (for example, if I will play a game or use camera). However, after for example hour, it does say that it has only 10% battery, on reboot it does say that it has 30% battery.
On next reboot it tells me that I have 10%. Always full numbers, like 10, 20 or 30 or even 40% but appearing randomly.
Now - after 2 days of being constantly on a cable (charger) it is constantly showing that it has 2% of battery.
On disconnecting, it goes off in 30 seconds.
On connecting, it does start up and it does show that it is charging, but it remains on 2%.
Anyway - I have already opened the phone and tried with replacing the charging port (board).
This did not resolve the issue.
On Saturday (in 2 days) I may receive a new (OEM) battery and I will see if this will resolve the problem.
But in the meantime, does anyone may have an idea where to look for or how to troubleshoot to find the cause of an issue?
Phone inside looks perfectly fine.
Honestly in such situation there is no simple solution. Its all about luck...
Water is really sneaky, and even such thing like putting phone on heater can actually damage it even more, because some people seriously put it on lava-hot places where water just vapor and enter even smaller spaces inside phone.
What I would do after few minutes of panic and few hours of swearing, is to dissemble it with the speed of light just to disconnect battery from mainboard. This is really important, and one of thing that I hate in phones today(you cant disconnect battery easily).
After that I would take paper towel and dry everything if I could not get my hands on rice. Then take super soft pain brush and scrub all spaces on boards and case inside, because for most of time water it self dont damage phone, but rust/calcium that settle between circuit paths. So its important to carefully brush every space blow it with compressed air.
Then its good to check if battery didnt get swollen and if all smaller lego-like connectors are clean inside(good magnifier is handy here).
But if after that phone work but dont charge its probably one of the charging component on board or usb socket it self is rusted. Problem is that in today phones those components are so fricking small that I sometimes cant distinguish resistor from capacitor or transistor...
And of course beside that its good to do full wipe, today phones are like magic box, no one really know what is going on because everyone have different problem with them, so maybe phone need to wipe its battery informations/stats to fix it self...
I cant really thing about anything else, because you cant do much more by your self in home, Phones are not designed to be easy to fix. And sometimes its eve cheaper to buy new phone instead(eg. Huawei P10 is now available for damn 420Euro... when P9 is still 350...)
Battery did arrive today. I will see if this will resolve the issue.
Once I will replace and test it - I will update this thread.
I can confirm that replacing battery did resolve the problem. Phone is charging again.
Last thing I have to fix now is the rear camera as it does not focus correctly.
Don't know if that is because of my disassembly and assembly or by the water damage.
Update: Still haven't found why the colour camera does not autofocus.
Strangely, if I will take off the back cover (plate), the autofocus is fully working, but as soon as I will clip it back on and the phone will be "fully assembled" - it does not autofocus. Still trying to understand what is causing the issue. Black and white / monochrome works absolutely fine.
I will open the phone today or tomorrow again and see if I can spot the (probably obvious) reason of the issue.
I do remember that autofocus did work fine before opening the phone (so before replacing the battery) so most likely I have not attached something correctly or something is misaligned (however I have checked it twice and all looks perfect).
I do have an option to send phone for the repair to Huawei, but I do feel that they will cancel the warranty anyway. Luckily the camera module on eBay does not cost a lot, so maybe I will just replace it by myself if I won't find solution today or if Huawei won't fix the problem.
And another update.
Still can't confirm 100% sure about the camera problem.
I have disassembled it, assembled it back all together.
Found that I have scratched (at the first time when I was replacing the battery) the gold foil on a side which is touching the small connector on the right hand side of the camera.
After assembling carefully all together, it does look like camera is alive and it does autofocus almost 100% perfectly.
There is however this missing 1% when it does kind of rattling movement at the end of auto focusing, and can't find out if it is because it still slightly misaligned, or is it because the golden foil is slightly damaged (on a side of the camera module).
I am thinking about getting a new camera module but first I would have to understand how to assemble it in such a way, that it will just fit it without scratching the side of the camera module (it is tricky to do this).
Anyway - the camera is almost working. If I will decide to make it work absolutely ideal - I would probably have to learn how to assemble it properly.
P.S. And just to explain to everyone, I am watching YouTube videos and learning from those.
I guess I have damaged the camera module when I was replacing the battery due to lack of understanding how it is assembled in the first place.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
That's weird, the rear dual camera is detachable but is not removed in that guide, there is a metal cover if you didn't know already that just pops off then you can unplug the camera.
Yeah. I was following a different guide and I did took it off (completely) off the main board.
The problem is the small metal "clip" on the right hand side which links to the metal screw-able cover.
Visible here:
https://youtu.be/TM6t_iAce-Y?t=3m26s
(3:26)
That little thing did mess up the golden side of the camera module which looks like foil.
Now I am struggling to place it all together in place perfectly aligned.
As mentioned - the camera works almost almost perfectly however after pay day I am about to order a full camera module to replace it.
Get a new camera module. They should be cheap from aliexpress.
I have seen plenty of the "OEM" ones but I am not 100% sure if those are "really" the same as original ones.
Payday is in 4-5 days, so I will just order a genuine one on ebay with delivery in several days, not in 3 weeks
edmun said:
I have seen plenty of the "OEM" ones but I am not 100% sure if those are "really" the same as original ones.
Payday is in 4-5 days, so I will just order a genuine one on ebay with delivery in several days, not in 3 weeks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You are Very Talented And Enthusiastic Person :good:
Good Luck
Ok. An update.
I do have an original new Huawei P9 Camera module, but.....
Before I have attempted to place it in, I was trying to find out how to properly assembly it so I have done several dry runs on the current camera module.
So instead of trying to put the new one in place and damage(?) it by a mistake, I have decided I will try on the one which is already in my smartphone.
And I will say this way - my camera is fully working. Including Autofocus on colour camera and on black and white one.
It was (as I suspected) a basic mistake during the assembly, where I was constantly doing things wrong
For anyone which would be trying to do the same.
If you have (accidentally) disassemble the board with camera module and now the autofocus does not work as expected, make sure that you will assemble it following steps below:
1) With metal cover taken off, attach cameras tape to the board
2) Leave the camera module away from the board
3) Screw in the metal plate (two screws) which holds the camera tape
4) Once the plate is in place, clip in the camera module into the designated hole/place
My mistake was, that I was constantly trying to place the camera in the designated camera place before screwing in the metal plate which is above the cameras tape.
Now I have a spare original camera module I will keep testing my phone but after a week after the final repair, I don't see any issues at all.
My Huawei P20 Lite does not charge after 5 min in water
Hi Edmun
Did you find any solution to your troubles?
I have the same troubles with my Huawei P20 Lite. I was swimming with it for 5 min (Yes, really stupid!) and now it wont charge. I turned it off immediately, and I dried it for 4 days in 35* C with the back plate removed, and it now works fine as long as the charger is connected. However the battery level went from 90% to 2% in a few days, and now it remains there no matter how long time I charge it. It turned into a wired phone! Why doesn't it take charge when everything else works? What can I do to solve it? Obviously the current goes in through the socket as it works when connected, and it makes the usual beep at the moment of connection. I have cleaned the female socket on the phone with a fine brush and inspected it with a loupe and it looks perfectly OK. What can I do to fix it? Should I get a nwe circuit bord, and in that case wihch one? Or should I try a new battery?
Please, help me! I bought the phone just a month ago! Many thanks for any hints on solutions.
/Nils
Replacing battery worked.
had exactly the same situation.
Can't promise it will fix your issue but it worked for me. Replacing is tricky because of the glue underneath the battery but if you ever fixed any smartphones then you should be fine
Brother....I am right now in same situation...can you tell that the cell phone work ???
My cell phone had the same situation and its shows only 2% and switch off in 30 sec... Pls update....
On the board I see six test points. The question is if any of these can be shorted to be able to get the device in a mode where it can be flashed despite being OEM locked.
OK, so the test points are below the fingerprint flex cable connector:
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Here’s roughly how I proceeded:
Made sure that I’m grounded by touching a grounded metal piece in my apartment.
Removed the SIM tray.
Opened the device according to the instructions by Wit Rigs (youtu.be/1VIdpuXSFmI). Separating the top with the screen was quite hard as it is glued.
Popped out the battery flex cable connector, then the fingerprint flex cable connector.
On my laptop (Windows 7 X64) started MiFlash 2016.08.30.0, downloaded from en.miui.com/thread-345974-1-1.html.
Inserted the USB-C cable that came with the phone into the phone. (not yet into the laptop!)
Using a bent and cut staple, I connected the test points, then inserted the USB-C cable into my laptop.
Windows reported that a new device is connected.
Removed the staple, clicked refresh in MiFlash: A device showed up.
Flashed the latest official stock Android One ROM V9.6.10.0, downloaded from en.miui.com/download-353.html:
Initially I got a message that MiFlash cannot receive a “Hello” packet. It turned out that I was too slow. After connecting the device, one only has limited the time to start the flashing. I read elsewhere that it’s 15 seconds.
Success, my A2 boots up again! Now I’m only waiting for thermal paste to arrive in the mail, I will apply that, then close the phone again.
feklee said:
I found the points, and I would like to post a photo, but I can’t because I cannot add attachments to posts.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you upload the photo else where and provide a link maybe?
Please stop opening new threads for the same issue.
I think this is the third one I have seen now. I'm sure someone will be able to help you but with the phone being as new as it is you may have to wait or figure it out for yourself. I have the phone but have not tried root yet because it's too early in the phones life to be messing around with it. Let the community grow first.
I do hope you made to get it solved though and if so you could document it so we can all learn from it in the future
mauley said:
Please stop opening new threads for the same issue.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Coming from Q&A platforms such as StackOverflow, I was assuming it’s better to use separate threads: The other ones are about Magisk on the A2, about clean installing the A2 ROM, and about using a deep flash cable on the A2. Finally being able to upload pictures, I am now fleshing out my earlier posts with details.
Anyhow, I hope that the information can be of help for others!
feklee said:
OK, so the test points are below the fingerprint flex cable connector:
View attachment 4571595
Here’s roughly how I proceeded:
Made sure that I’m grounded by touching a grounded metal piece in my apartment.
Removed the SIM tray.
Opened the device according to the instructions by Wit Rigs (youtu.be/1VIdpuXSFmI). Separating the top with the screen was quite hard as it is glued.
Popped out the battery flex cable connector, then the fingerprint flex cable connector.
On my laptop (Windows 7 X64) started MiFlash 2016.08.30.0, downloaded from en.miui.com/thread-345974-1-1.html.
Inserted the USB-C cable that came with the phone into the phone. (not yet into the laptop!)
Using a bent and cut staple, I connected the test points, then inserted the USB-C cable into my laptop.
Windows reported that a new device is connected.
Removed the staple, clicked refresh in MiFlash: A device showed up.
Flashed the latest official stock Android One ROM V9.6.10.0, downloaded from en.miui.com/download-353.html:
View attachment 4571596
Initially I got a message that MiFlash cannot receive a “Hello” packet. It turned out that I was too slow. After connecting the device, one only has limited the time to start the flashing. I read elsewhere that it’s 15 seconds.
Success, my A2 boots up again! Now I’m only waiting for thermal paste to arrive in the mail, I will apply that, then close the phone again.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought a Mi A2 and tried to put android pie on it, but I failed successfully. I'm gonna try this endpoint method, cause I cant flash images with fastboot.
Unfortunately I can only try this on Monday, cause I don't have the tools, but a friend in college has. I wanna know a few stuff for the grand day:
You told that the device is glued. Is it really hard to open it? and do i need to glue it back?
In the endpoint method, I need to manage to connect the two points with a metal tool, right? And i'll do the process with the battery disconnected, correct?
You wouldn't believe it, but this is my first android and I had it working for less than an hour. I have always being an apple user, but my devices were always jailbroken. I thought that with android things would go easy, but I ****ed them up hahah
As I saw you posted somewhere else, I always like to push my devices to the limit and thats why I am a computer science student...
thanks a lot anyway, and wish me luck on Monday!! Hope I can do it...
zemariolac said:
You told that the device is glued. Is it really hard to open it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I used an X-ACTO knives (careful!), and yes it was somewhat hard to open.
and do i need to glue it back?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The A2 is glued with double sided tape going along all the edges. I removed that tape, then applied pieces of double sided tape (red TESA) in select locations. Applying double sided tape along all the edges should be practically impossible to do manually. Notes:
The original tape provides a certain level of water protection. So I’m not sure that it was a good idea to remove it. Between the pieces of tape that I applied there now are gaps, which however are not visible from the outside.
The device can be put together without tape at all, and the screen keeps attached to the body. What happens without tape in situations of stress, I don’t know.
So far everything has been working out fine for me, and my A2 already survived a couple of crashes (don’t use the ugly case).
In the endpoint method, I need to manage to connect the two points with a metal tool, right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes. Note that after shorting the contacts, you have limited time to start the flashing. I think it was 40 seconds.
And i'll do the process with the battery disconnected, correct?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes that’s the recommended method. It also allows you to quickly reset the device, i.e. by unplugging the USB cable.
I always like to push my devices to the limit
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same for me! Along the way I learned more than I wanted to. It’s interesting to see the device opened with all its components, removes a bit of the magic.
Anyhow, good luck!
feklee said:
OK, so the test points are below the fingerprint flex cable connector:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Why do I see a single camera module on the motherboard?
[email protected] said:
Why do I see a single camera module on the motherboard?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Front camera
Benjamin_L said:
Front camera
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, right. It's the front. My bad.
Typing from my unbricked MI A2!
Thank you for the post. Everything went well. It only took me more time than it needed cause i was trying to flash the comrpessed ROM (yes, I really did it). After that everything worked fine. Remind on your post for noobs like me that you need to extract the file before flashing it!
Hello
I just try the method but me it does not happen anything if I disconnect the battery I tried with several usb cable on several computers on several USB port and it is not strictly nothing
prblem
i have same problem