Help, I think I broke it! - Tilt, TyTN II, MDA Vario III General

I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.

Mike Channon has much information on this, here is one link, you need to search for the rest.
http://michael-channon.mobile.spaces.live.com/ent.aspx?h=cns!4472423472DCFC38!287&fp=/top.aspx

Thanks for that, but the his guides are the ones I followed already...
Been searching for ages, all I need is one person who knows what the problem is. Is that too much to ask?
I'll keep trying for now.
Thanks again. Anyone have any other ideas they are more than welcome. Any Ideas at all. I'm desperate to sort this out!

Bumpity bump....

My intuition tells me you will have to take it back apart and look for the problem in, on or near the sliding mechanism and sensor. I'd bet you just re-assembled it a little incorrectly thus activating the slide sound and screen flip sensor. Perhaps a pinched wire or something...either way it needs to come back apart and examined closely. Or maybe I am wrong and someone else has a better idea..hope so!
Best of luck to ya!

Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.

matmaneyre said:
Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i understand, there are magnets that trigger screen rotation. Im sure your going to ask me were they are, and my answer is have no idea. But my best quess is under the screen and one under the keyboard. So I hope I have helped you.

That would make sense actually, thanks for that. Now to grab my T6 screwdriver and start again...

Ok, so now I get the general gist of how the screen orientation mechanism works with the magnets, I have since found one magnet underneath the screen, but I still cannot find what this magnet relates to in order to switch the screen orientation. i have checked both of my housings and the main board but still to no avail. If anyone else understands this mechanism a bit better, any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm getting closer, but still not quite there!

matmaneyre said:
I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, don't build up your hopes based on the following - it is by way of things to look for ONLY.
I have not made by own detailed pics of the Kaiser so far and I have not located the magnet or receiver switch - mainly 'cos I wasn't looking for them.
However here is the TyTn / Hermes. It MAY be similar to the Kaiser so it MAY give you ideas on what to look for/check.
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Not the nost impressive looking thing is it!!
This is what a magnet sensor switch looks like. But importantly it will obviously need to be connected to the circuit either by ribbon cable or directly onto the m/board. In the case of the Hermes above it is on the KEYBOARD ribbon cable - so on the opposite side of the above is this:-
Thus we can see that sliding the keyboard across the sensor operates a switch built into thye keyboard ribbon cable.
Now, I'm not sure exactly where you located the magnet, but is it possible that it has come loose and is no longer in the correct position.
Check ribbon cables for a switch.
I will dismantle and take pics to show all this, but unfortunately the coming week is a bit hectic so next weekend may be the first opportunity - you may beat me to it!!
Mike
Update (for Kaiser): The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.

Update: Kaiser specific.
The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.
Mike

Excellent Mike. Thanks so much.
Now it makes a huge amount of sense, but please don't dismantle your tytn II for my sake in case you encounter more unecessary problems. I know exactly what I'm looking for now from your pictures of the Tytn/Hermes. In fact, I've already seen it, I just didn't know what it was before. It is located right at the very bottom of the keyboard attached to the end of a ribbon. I know the magnet I found is definitely in the right place as I didn't even notice it before KD8DNS mentioned the magnet mechanism and it is fixed in place.
To help others who may encounter this, I will upload a pic of the switch and magnet ASAP. I'm using Vista on a laptop at the moment which I don't connect my device to so I'll do that on my XP desktop when I can. I will also post my findings as and when (or if!).
Thanks a buch mikechannon! Just what I was after.
EDIT>> Also thanks to KD8DNS! (almost forgot)

Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.

matmaneyre said:
Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong but I have the feeling this is not something major. If you open the keyboard and pass a magnet around the "A" key - does it rotate the screen?
Mike

I appreciate your enthusiasm, Mike, but it is impossibe to 'open up' the keyboard without disconnecting the battery, as the frame around the keyboard also holds the battey in.
I was right though..you were the best person to ask!
I will see what I can do (i.e holding the battery on manually while tesing the switch, although this is a little awkward). If this doesn't work, I would say both of the switches that I have available to test with are faulty. How likely is that?

Well after all that it was all in vain...while trying to fix my kaiser I dropped it, smashing the screen 2 smitherines. As a result, the touch screen doesn't work, the memory card isn't recognised & it won't charge or sync. I had all the case off at the time so the impact between the components & the floor was brutal. Not 2 worry tho, as the missus insisted I buy a new one, so,with permission, I've just ordered a Touch Pro. Better not tell her how much it cost eh?
Thanks to mikechannon in particular & all other people who had an input on this. I never managed 2 solve it but I'm sure if I'd had more time I'd have cracked it in the end (& I don't mean the LCD, I managed that!)
So this is goodbye from me to the Kaiser forum. Just gotta wait for a Touch Pro one now!!!
Thanks 2 all again.
Matmaneyre
HTC Kaiser 28/01/08 - 09/07/08 - R.I.P.

Related

TILT USB Charger Port Shot - NEW PHONE???

Long story short...I got my Tilt like a week and a half ago. Last night in the dark, I went to soft rest my phone, but instead stuck the stylus into the USB charge port. The pin connector spit in the middle and now one part of the pin connector on the phone is lower than the other. Eventually and after continual use, this pin will cease to function and I will be unable to active sync my phone or charge my battery. I have flashed to Dutty's 6.1 and love it. I no longer have the original ATT ROM.
I have checked with repair places and even ATT&T.
My question is this- Should I just buy another ATT&T tilt phone and lick my wounds (Seriously thinking about it) OR would it be better to just flash back to the original ATT&T ROM and then send it back to ATT&T for a replacement. I think by flashing Dutty’s ROM, it voids the phone, right? And of the latter method, reflashing back to ATT ROM, how difficult would this be? I was able to completely install Dutty’s ROM and all facets (even my sound and camera issues post) reading the posts on here so I figure it can’t be much harder to go back to the original ATT&T ROM. But then I think of how lazy I am and the amount of reading it took this noob to sift through just to be able to install Dutty’s 6.1 and somehow the money spent buying a new phone and forgoing all the work, is also appealing to me.
I would have posted this in the Kaiser Upgrading forum, but oddly, it’s missing.
~Gwen
SkunkyGwen said:
Long story short...I got my Tilt like a week and a half ago. Last night in the dark, I went to soft rest my phone, but instead stuck the stylus into the USB charge port. The pin connector spit in the middle and now one part of the pin connector on the phone is lower than the other. Eventually and after continual use, this pin will cease to function and I will be unable to active sync my phone or charge my battery. I have flashed to Dutty's 6.1 and love it. I no longer have the original ATT ROM.
I have checked with repair places and even ATT&T.
My question is this- Should I just buy another ATT&T tilt phone and lick my wounds (Seriously thinking about it) OR would it be better to just flash back to the original ATT&T ROM and then send it back to ATT&T for a replacement. I think by flashing Dutty’s ROM, it voids the phone, right? And of the latter method, reflashing back to ATT ROM, how difficult would this be? I was able to completely install Dutty’s ROM and all facets (even my sound and camera issues post) reading the posts on here so I figure it can’t be much harder to go back to the original ATT&T ROM. But then I think of how lazy I am and the amount of reading it took this noob to sift through just to be able to install Dutty’s 6.1 and somehow the money spent buying a new phone and forgoing all the work, is also appealing to me.
I would have posted this in the Kaiser Upgrading forum, but oddly, it’s missing.
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
go here. you already did the hardest part by upgrading. reverting back is even easier.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=335568
Reverting Back
Will do. I am going to see what I can get done in person at the ATT&T store this evening. If that fails, next step will be the Idiots Guide to Restoring your Phone. I had seen that when I was flashing Dutty's and never thought I would need it. Never say never.
Thanks
~Gwen
It may just be bent. You can try to gently bend it back into shape. Does it charge at all? I did the sanme thing & lost USB to PC & automotive charging only. I hope you didn't already tell AT&T you did this.
I called them after bending back into shape VERY GENTLY & told the that it charged at home via A/C but not via USB to PC or in the car. They told me that was impossible. I took it into the store, they verified it, & AT&T sent me a brand new one.
Just gingerly put it back into shape & call them back & say "my phone only charges from the A/C charger. I even took it into a store & the salesguy tried a new car charger & even in his vehicle. It won't work"
They will replace it & won't charge you. (if you can make it look semi-normal again) I've suggested this to several others & non of them have been charged either.
BTW, If you have HardSPL you can flash back using the SD card & return it clean!!!
What to do....
Hmm...What to do. What to do. I was hoping to just go into the store and be like, hey, what gives. I’ve had my phone less than two weeks and this morning when I unplugged my phone, look what happened, and show it to the salesman hoping he will take pity on me and believe my convoluted story that it just "broke" really. Add to that the phone being so, so new and it's worth a try right?
As far as gently bending back the pins. I have taken a closer look at the USB port it looks like the break starts on the far RIGHT end of the port between the last pin and second to last pin. The break is right in-between those two pins right down the middle. For an even closer look, I broke out my Surefire U2and a magnifying glass.It looks like the plastic piece is holding the pins in place even though there is a slit in the plastic on the right side. The phone charges currently and does sync with the computer, but for how long? I am afraid that if I gently bend the plastic piece back into place, it will only compound the problem, but if I am considering purchasing another phone anyway, what do I have to lose, right?
UPDATE: It's the plastic piece, not the pins which is in need of repair. I mean, the pins are connected to the plastic piece and the pins are still intact, but the plastic piece cannot be gently pushed back up because it will aggravate the crack already there and I am trying to preserve what little integrity of the phone and pins is left in terms of charging/syncing, etc until I get another phone. I guess the bright side to all of this is that I would have extra Tilt phone for parts with the exception of the USB port from the old phone to alleviate any future problems I cause to my own detriment and also as a way to hedge against my stupid ideas because as these mount, my bank account grows ever smaller.
I’ll let you know how it goes at the ATT&T store.
~Gwen
As I recall from your original thread, you are an attractive woman. Without sounding hopelessly out of touch (read chauvinistic), use that to your advantage. Heck, you could probably walk into Radioshack and get one of the geeks (er, I mean clerks) to give you anything for free. Imagine him that night texting his friends, "you'll never believe this, but I talked to an actual girl today, live and in person."
He would be a god to his friends and you would have what you wanted.
Seriously, if you walked into an AT&T store and told them your phone is only two weeks old and the USB port broke, why wouldn't they do a warranty exchange?
Why - I'll tell ya why
Becasue I flashed my phone to Dutty's 6.1 which voids the warranty. Yes. I can flash back to the original OEM and then return, but I am going to try the lazy route first. I'll let you know how it goes.
~Gwen
Hmmm. the lazy route....Isn't that what you wrote against in your "pat myself on the back any harder & I might fall over" post?
Also, there are currently 2 different types of USB ports on the device. On the fist you can see little square openings in each pin location (probably the one you have). Then there is one that is completely solid & more sturdy, this one is also usually associatwed with a tighter connection & from my experience can be bent back into shape.
umm....where to start....how about i have had att send me about 4 tilts.....i have had different issues and im not one to sit there and have it fixed etc, that is what my warranty is for so therefore i call it and have it replaced....i had the exact same issue that youhad. although i was able to bend it back and have it fixed no problem, it wasn't enough as i felt eventually it could become a problem. so they replaced it after i explained to them my issues. the only other related problem is please don't use other chargers (motorolas etc) as i am not sure if this has been addressed, but they have been known to burn and melt the piece in there and therefore not letting it charge at all on anything. just an fyi.
but yeah when it comes to att for anyone that is an att customer out there, if you don't know by now, you can get any phone you want. im not about scaming people etc, but at the same time if i am not satisfied to the slighests about something on this phone, that i came out of the pocket big time for, im going to call and have it replaced asap or as long as my warranty says it exists.
some did you knows that my sis "customer service rep for att 6 years"
you can have them send you out another phone, inform them you didnt get it, and they just send another (how dumb!!!)
if you have a discontinued or downgraded phone, going through warranty about 3 times will let you have a one time courtesy make and model change...i went from the 8525 to the tile for free.....yes for free!
just some fyi's folks!
SkunkyGwen said:
Becasue I flashed my phone to Dutty's 6.1 which voids the warranty. Yes. I can flash back to the original OEM and then return, but I am going to try the lazy route first. I'll let you know how it goes.
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your within 30 days of when you purchased it you can simply return it and get another device. If they hassle you simply return it and then the next day go back in a purchase another one.
AllTheWay said:
If your within 30 days of when you purchased it you can simply return it and get another device. If they hassle you simply return it and then the next day go back in a purchase another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, this should be cake to return for a replacement, you could even get an advanced replacement via Fed-Ex in a day by phone which I did last year with an 8525.
After all that hard work, see, you should'nt had sex with it, or at least left the stylus out of the frey....
Truthfully, I watch a lot of streaming video at night using Slingbox on my Kaiser, and have come very close to the same disaster myself, feel for ya.
Just be sure and do a good backup to SD so the re-flash and restore of the new box will be painless
flash from sd
any help here on flash from sd i have tried and just get the white with blue screen for a split second and then the tricolor screen, any other suggestions tried with 1gig and 2gig san disk so far
Got a new phone amd I still have my dignity
UPDATE –
Well. I went back to ATT&T and they were really busy. Prior to getting there, I cleared everything personal off, did a hard reset followed by a soft reset and drained the battery completely. I put everything back into the box and removed the battery and the battery door and closed the box. They never turned on the phone or anything like that. I simply gave them my online receipt which they made a copy and then the guy came our and gave me brand new phone. I never even flashed back to the original ATT&T ROM. I just did the above and returned it.
So this saga closes and another opens. My latest saga is trying to find a hack to change the MMS attachment settings. On my old tilt with Dutty’s 6.1, I had no problem taking and sending videos in MMS or even SMS. Now, I get the, this file is too large to attach or whatever. I checked under the MMS options on the phone, but all that is listed is 300k on the drop down menu. I have searched the forums and even tried a couple of cabs to no avail. I am thinking it has to be a simple setting. After searching the forum for a total of 16 hours the last two days and trying the various cabs and settings in my phone, I cannot get the damn attachment settings above 300k so any video over 8 seconds, I get the File to large to attach, blah, blah, blah. If I record for 4 seconds, it attaches. WTF?
~Gwen
Mine did that in January. Just stopped working on car charging, but ok on the AC charger. Called at&t, they sent me a new one. Did yours look something like
this? Top pic was the old one, bottom pic the replacement.
Also note at the bottom of the broken connector, the metal has separated.
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p51d007 said:
Mine did that in January. Just stopped working on car charging, but ok on the AC charger. Called at&t, they sent me a new one. Did yours look something like
this? Top pic was the old one, bottom pic the replacement.
Also note at the bottom of the broken connector, the metal has separated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine looks exactly like that. Same issue. Called ATT and told them it only worked while being plugged into the charger that came with the Tilt, but also told them it worked sporadically, and even though it always worked while connected to a PC I told them it only worked half the time to ensure that I would get a new Tilt. Its really easy to have them change this but you CANNOT say at all, that the connector looks damaged in any way, just bend it back to make it look straight and everyone should be fine. The guy tried to trick me into saying that I broke it but I wouldnt give in. They are sending me out a new phone this week and was wondering if anyone had theirs replaced did they have it replaced with the new Mini USB port of the old one? ie new one has no gap between the connects where as the new one does not.
Brian
MMS set Max Size Limit to 600k
SkunkyGwen said:
. . . My latest saga is trying to find a hack to change the MMS attachment settings. On my old tilt with Dutty’s 6.1, I had no problem taking and sending videos in MMS or even SMS. Now, I get the, this file is too large to attach or whatever. I checked under the MMS options on the phone, but all that is listed is 300k on the drop down menu. I have searched the forums and even tried a couple of cabs to no avail. I am thinking it has to be a simple setting. After searching the forum for a total of 16 hours the last two days and trying the various cabs and settings in my phone, I cannot get the damn attachment settings above 300k so any video over 8 seconds, I get the File to large to attach, blah, blah, blah. If I record for 4 seconds, it attaches. WTF?
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With a registry editor, go to:
HKLM\Software\Arcsoft\Arcsoft MMS UA\Config\UI\SizeLimit
Set these dwords with the following HEX values:
RecvLimit1 32000
RecvLimit2 64000
RecvLimit3 96000
SendLimit1 32000
SendLimit2 64000
SendLimit3 96000
See this thread for discussion.
I have this register entry saved so I can import it into the registry after any new flash.
EDIT: I see that you got this answered in the thread that you started separately, but for anyone just seeing the above, here it is without looking further.
im having the saaaaaaaame problem too, but my tilt ONLY charges on the pc and not in the car or at home..for some reason..i took it to att and they said sorry cant help you..you have had it for 6 months already..how about buying another one..i just looked at em and walked out. 600 bucks down the drain.

Fix for Failing / Nonworking Keys - Tilt (HW)

I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't
I had problems with my U and C key which it was a pain when entering a number u know U is 2 and well it made the whole experience longer and frustrating. after doing this trick (using a chopstick) my c and u keys work perfect... Now I can resume my mobile life... good luck to anyone else! and thanks Candanga!
Thanks for the trick! I'm going to try it if I have problems.
good fix man....i've got it to work with all of my keys EXCEPT for the down arrow/PgDn button....but i had been having problems with my u, p, i, s, and v keys, and using ur "fix" they work like new again.....
living in Louisiana, its probably also the humidity affecting my keys....thanks!
Good method -- thought I wander how long it will last
If your phone is out-of-warranty, and your feel adventurous (and want to run the risk of damaging the phone) you might consider taking the keyboard apart and carefully cleaning with some diluted isopropyl alcohol. This would likely give you a long-lasting result, though of course you risk damaging the phone, yada yada.
Another thing to consider is my patented what-the-hell-it-might-work method. WARNING I have not tried this on a Kaiser, it is based on something I did with an older device with a keyboard. (NEC MobilePro 780)
AS USUAL, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK
Turn the phone off by holding down the power button. remove the battery, sim card, storage card, etc. Put some DILUTED isopropyl alcohol in a small spray bottle, then spray it onto the keyboard. (I'd protect the screen and the rest of the phone as much as possible.) Let the alcohol pool up and get into the cracks of the keyboard. Wipe away the excess with a paper towel, then proceed to work each key much as described in previous post.
When you've had it, just let the phone sit for at least 24 hours so the alcohol evaporates completely. Replace the battery etc and see if it will start up, then test the keyboard
WARNING, the alcohol may damage the electronics, mar the finish of the plastic, etc. USE the 70% stuff, NOT the 90%
+1! Good advice. Worked for me.
it really works on my Australian TYTN II
bennyzhou said:
it really works on my Australian TYTN II
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Confirmed on my Tilt I got from a San Francisco ATT store. Jeez. Nice.
I have always hated my G key. I use it plenty, but not often like an a or an e key, often enough that it's always on my mind, the anger that I will have to hit that stupid g key harder because it thinks it's special
No more. It works great. It's not special. I still hate it though, simply because I've always hated it.
Boycott G
Works great, thanks Candanga! My "s" key was not working unless I pressed it with force, now with your simple fix it's back to normal again.
PS. I too live in a humid environment.
Cleaning Keyboard on Kaiser
Well, this is my first post and hopes this help to the community that has problems while using the Keyboard.
This is my story. I bought a Tilt on ebay and after trying using it some keys did not work correctly. In order to use the keyboard I use a combination of the on screen keyboard and the keyboard. Then I ask myself, why am I doing this? Why am I needed to use a combination of the keyboard?
Time ago I work in a company that assembly Cellular, so I know the process and when a problem with the keyboard happen most of the time was because dust or fingerprint on the contacts while trying to assemble it.
What I did to solve the problem on my Kaiser was to do a deep clean of the keyboard. I follow the instruction of how to disassembly the phone [/URL]in order to take out the keyboard. Then I put the keyboard in an ultrasonic cleaner with alcohol for 10min. After that I reassembly the phone and try. But guess what, the keyboard gets worst, before that, there were a couple of keys that did not works but after clean it or try to clean it there were like 10 keys that did not work. Oh... dam it.
It could not be like this. I decide to give it a second chance to fix it but I did it in a different way.
The first thing I did was to remove the keypad. It was not so hard because the gum was kind of weak because the alcohol I use with the ultrasonic.
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Second, I removed the contact pad with small tweezers being careful to not damage the contact pads.
After letting naked the keyboard I realized that the gum used to stick the contact pads were spread on the flex board and that was the reason of the hard keys or problematic keys.
Third, What I did was to clean the flex board and the contact pad perfectly with alcohol and swaps being careful of clean each contact.
Then I stick the contact pads again to the flex board and checking that it was aligned perfectly.
And last, Stick the keyboard.
Since 4 weeks I have been using the keyboard without problems.
My experience is that was not needed to disassemble the phone, just only disassembly the keyboard and clean the contacts.
Candanga said:
I was looking this morning for a solution for those keys that would require a higher level of pressure in order for them to work (Hardware issue, not ROM-related), and all of them will point me to buy a new keyboard.
So after reading numerous threads I read this phrase "use it or lose it", and it gave me an idea... I decided to EXTRA-USE IT lol
Try this:
- open word or one-note or w/e and start pressing the key LIKE HELL (probably some dozen times), pretty fast, not so hard, repeatedly and without harming the phone (make sure you feel its reaching the "end").
- then press the key and move it in circles, like if you were rubbing it against the KB contacts.
If it works for you, you will see the results right away in the screen.
Ive tried this on two Tilts already and seems to work. I don't know if its a temporary fix or if its definite, I just know for sure it works in my case
My wild guess is that by doing this you clean the contacts of the aluminum pads, making them work properly. I live in a very humid country (about 90% RH) and next to the ocean, so I guess this would contribute more to the development of this failure.
*NOTE: Please if you have spilled anything over your phone, don't expect this to work as good as if u haven't
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
worked for me
Maddening key press method works
My down arrow was not working. Searching on the web, I got a link for this and I pressed the keys two dozen times before it worked! Thanks!
totally works as advertised!
I used the eraser-end of a pencil to do the pushing, and the results are fantastic!

Bionic Lapdock not Working - Need Help

Hello,
I have a Bionic Lapdock that doesn't want to work with my Bionic and I was hoping that somebody might be able to point me in the right direction.
When I connect my phone to the Lapdock it will turn off the phone's screen, turn on the Lapdock screen, and show an animated red circle with the Motorola logo in it to show that it's loading (this occurs only once when the phone is first inserted or if the service is terminated and needs to reload). The background will load on the Lapdock screen, show all of the icons on the bottom, the phone status, etc, but the Lapdock screen will turn off in about 5 seconds and the keyboard and trackpad on the Lapdock do not seem to do anything. Typically the only screen I see on the Lapdock is the screensaver (the red circle with the Motorola logo inside of it that moves around the screen bit by bit) or the screen is off entirely. I have noticed that occasionally a trackpad will appear on my phone's screen and it will allow me to move the mouse cursor on the Lapdock screen for a few seconds before the Lapdock screen turns off again.
At one point I did have my phone rooted, but the 902 update broke it a while ago, and now I don't care to root it again because we can't use rooted phones and do various work-related functions with them (Citrix, Touchdown, etc).
But anyway, I first tried to do a full reinstall of 902 using RSD 5.6 (using the 682 MB file newvrz_xt875_5.9.902.xt875.verizon.en.us_cfc_01.xml.zip). The reinstall worked, but the same problem occurred with the Lapdock. I also cleared cache and did another factory reset to no avail. So then I downgraded to 893 using the full reinstall (file vrz_xt875_5.5.893.xt875.verizon.en.us_cfc_01.xml.zip which is around 671 MB), and the problem persisted. I then did an OTA update from 893 to 902, and the problem still occurs. I have also tried using an external mouse and keyboard, and those don't seem to have any impact either (the mouse lights up for a second when initialized, but then turns off).
I'm using the "MOTBIOLAPDK" if that makes any difference.
I'm not sure what else I can try, other than bring my phone and/or dock in to a Verizon store to see if it works with one of their phones (I bought the lapdock from that $80 sale that 1saleaday was having on eBay the other day).
Any help with this issue would be very much appreciated! Thanks for reading.
same issue
Hope we can get an answer to this. I have the same problem. I used Pathsaver to get to 902. I also bought my lapdock off 1SaleADay.
OH GOD I AM ABOUT TO CHOKE A *****
The extended battery doesn't easily allow for a complete connection with the USB port. I just had to take the extended battery off and put the stock battery on, and now *everything* works just fine. Everywhere I read it said that the Verizon extended battery was "fully compatible" with this dock. Oh well, hopefully this post will help out somebody in the same boat.
Also, you aren't connected to the USB port on the dock until a "Select Application to Launch" pop-up message appears on your phone (when the dock is closed, anyway). I had to press down harder on the phone to insert it properly than I thought would be necessary.
This is exactly what is happening with mine (purchased from the same website), I am starting to think these were on sale for a reason.
I thought it was an issue with a custom ROM (Eclipse 2.2) so I spent my whole evening messing with it before finally using Dhacker's utility to get back to 902 stock. Wasn't thrilled to have to go back to stock but I thought alright, finally I can use my new lapdock for the rest of the night. Nope. Same thing. Exactly as you described, it shows the Moto start up animation for a second, then the screen will load but the keyboard and trackpad won't work, then it goes to the Moto logo screen saver, and the phone screen in the dock turns back on and the phone just goes back to normal. I have no extended battery or case on the phone so I fear my issue is not that my phone just isn't in the dock all the way.
Ideas anyone? Or did I get a garbage lapdock?
UPDATE:
It looks like the extended battery on my phone masked some other problem. I had it working perfectly for about 45 minutes, but now I can't get it to work again and I'm right back to where I started.
It seems to be a connection issue, because if I push on it a certain way it will *sometimes* pop-up the webtop/"Select application to launch" dialog (it was doing this flawlessly with no extra effort not too long ago, so I don't know WTH is going on).
I used some compressed air on all of the ports, and that didn't help matters at all.
I'm hoping it's something simple that we can fix because I hate returning things.
Did anybody notice if their lapdock was new or used/refurbished? I couldn't really tell with mine, but I did notice that the Lapdock box was a bit banged up and there wasn't anything that indicated that it was actually factory sealed (it appeared like the box had been opened, and the user manual wasn't in the right spot either).
same problem here
I have the exactly same problem. I bought the lapdock from 1saleaday. Does any one think I can send it to Motorola?
I believe I've confirmed mine as actually defective as well. Once in 15 tries of connecting the phone and pushing down really hard will the phone screen show the "select application to launch" menu. I also noticed on the lapdock, on the dock part that flips open to accept the phone, right underneath the two connectors gets very hot to the touch when I have the phone connected, like there's a short or something going on. Practically burned my thumb.
Mine appeared the be brand new, the tabs on the lapdock box had the adhesive stickers over them, everything in the box was sealed (actually now that I think about it the plastic bag over the actual lapdock unit was not sealed).
The booklet mentions a warranty through Motorola. Should we bother trying to work with 1saleaday or just contact Moto?
This sucks!
Mine didn't get hot to the touch that I can remember when it was briefly working. I didn't have it in my lap though, so I might not have noticed. Right now it's a little warm, but not hot at all.
Mine had a clear plastic adhesive on the tabs, but it looked like regular packing tape on mine.
I would probably try 1saleaday first because they will be more likely to cover shipping expenses (at least I hope they do!). However, I just read their "return policy" which states:
"What is your return policy?
1SaleADay.com does not accept returns. For defective merchandise, notify us by filling out the form on our Contact page within 21 days of delivery for an exchange. Please include your order number, the name of the product, the date of purchase, and the issue you are having with the item. If the defective item is out of stock, it can be returned for a full refund. 

"
I'm guessing there's a good chance that they won't have many in stock, so they'll just refund you.
If I can't make heads or tails of this issue in an hour or so, I'll go to a Verizon store tomorrow to see if the Lapdock works with one of their Bionics, and also see if my Bionic works with their Lapdock (provided they have one on display).
Heh I was just reading about how terrible the customer service is for that website and that it might take a few weeks to get a refund.
I was thinking about the Verizon Store idea too but don't know if I'll be able to make it tomorrow. Let us know if you end up going or find anything out.
There's actually a couple of Motorola stores in my area, but I'm not sure they'd be able to help at all either. Maybe I will make a few phone calls tomorrow.
Another thing that's kind of odd is that you can pair a Bluetooth mouse to the phone and when the Lapdock screen kicks on for that 5 second period you can move the mouse cursor around using the Bluetooth mouse and interact with the Lapdock screen, but no matter what you do it'll still turn off in 5 seconds. Also, I was able to get a regular USB mouse and keyboard working, but ONLY when the Lapdock was working properly for that brief period of time.
Possible solution
I found a possible solution. I realized that the USB port was a little lower than HDMI port. I dissembled the docking part, pushed the USB port to the same level as the HDMI. IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!!
Yeah, I'm fairly certain we're on the right track that the issue lies at the part where the phone plugs in. That's why it'll turn off after a few seconds, poor connection.
I've been staring at the lapdock wanting to disassemble it myself because I'm impatient but I'm trying not to mess with it since there's a warranty. I just filled out the contact form for 1saleaday but I'm gonna try calling the Motorola stores in the morning just to see if any of them offer repair services or exchanges instead of having to go through a long process of warranty repair through the mail or waiting for a refund from 1sale.
---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 AM ----------
herolee31 said:
I found a possible solution. I realized that the USB port was a little lower than HDMI port. I dissembled the docking part, pushed the USB port to the same level as the HDMI. IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been looking at the dock portion of the device trying to figure out how it comes apart without messing it up. Any tips?
Here are some disassembly instructions:
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...13&tag=thumbnail-view-selector;get-photo-roto
I will try that with mine as well; the HDMI and USB don't line up the same.
Somewhere in XDA forum, you can find an Atrix lapdock HDMI mod stuff. I can't recall which tread it was, but it shows detailed instructions for modding.
Cool. I might give it a shot I just don't want to leave any visible marks trying to pry out the little covers etc and then not qualify for a warranty if they can see I f'd with it.
---------- Post added at 01:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 AM ----------
Sweeeeet I got mine working by taking the dock apart too. Typing on the lapdock right now. Well I just have the connectors hanging out the back loosely and the plastic is still disassembled so I'll have to see if I can keep it working after it's back together, but damn at least I can use it finally. TIme to go out for a cigarette after fighting with this thing all freakin evening!!!
I was able to get mine working as well!
It looks like the problem could come back again though, because the metal plate that the USB connector should press up against appears to be at least 1 mm off. I just folded up a small piece of electrical tape and put it in between the USB connector and the metal plate, and another larger piece between the metal plate and the wall, so that it can't get pushed back down again.
Only 7.5 hours later and it's working. Yay
Also, I didn't realize how much of a fingerprint magnet these things are!
Yeah the fingerprints are really bad on this thing haha.
I was able to fully reassemble mine and still keep it in working order (for now). Part of the issue for me seemed to be the metallic tape they wrapped around the end of the connectors. The tape on mine actually came up onto the metal part of the connector that comes through the plastic and meets with the phone (marked with the red line in this picture I took), so this metallic tape was kinda getting in the way and preventing the connector from coming through as far as it should. I peeled it back, put everything back in place, and held the USB connector as far forward as I could while I tightened down the metal bridge that goes over it. So far so good.
Also you can kinda see it in the picture but it does actually appear like the wire from the USB connector is getting hot, a small bit of plastic where the wire was resting was even starting to turn brown from the heat. For now I just wrapped it with a few extra layers of tape but looks like I might have a soldering job to do in the future if this wire craps out completely.
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Now to see if I can get back on Eclipse 2.2 and still keep everything working.
Thanks for brainstorming together everyone, I was really disappointed that this thing wasn't working.
blackmetalbuick said:
...Now to see if I can get back on Eclipse 2.2 and still keep everything working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Lapdock 500 and cannot get Webtop to work on Eclipse 2.2, so I don't think it's a lapdock issue.
Trying to get webtop2sd working
Thanks for all contributing to this thread! I also picked up a 1saleaday Bionic lapdock. I just got it yesterday and I am on stock .902 rooted with motofail. Everything seems to work fine but I was *hoping* to get webtop2sd working.
Although it installed just fine I am not seeing any difference running the webtop, i.e. no additional memory etc. If anyone else is familiar with it I'd like to try to get it working. My main goal is just to be able to get a larger remote desktop so I can rdp into work when at conferences (when having the lapdock is an advantage over a full blown laptop).
blackmetalbuick - Oddly enough mine hasn't gotten hot yet. I've left the Lapdock screensaver on for 30 minutes and the only part that gets remotely warm on mine is just under the USB port near where the external power cord plugs in (the closest USB port to the power adapter).

Galaxy S4 Active GPS Fix That Worked For Me

So My GPS randomly stopped working completely one day and so I started doing research on ways to improve it. I literally tried everything from application quick fixes, leaving my phone sitting outside for hours on end, ROM fixes... ext and nothing helped at all. I finally came across this article and, since I had nothing to lose at this point, I gave it a shot. When I finished, i got GPS fix within 2 seconds! This option is not for everyone, I really suggest making sure that the software/application fixes don't help first because taking apart your phone certainly has its risks but if you are like me and nothing has been working, there is hope!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Galaxy-S4-GPS-repair/
Check this article out and give me a shout out if it worked for you too.
Credit to bobyong808 from instructables.com for writing this article.
harrisd23
Keep in mind that the disassembly process is slightly different since we are talking about actives, but I just looked up another article showing how to remove the back of the active and jumped to step 3.
Thanks man, you nailed it! (I just signed up here to show my appreciation for your post, because otherwise I would probably not have come across the solution at all)
I had been somewhat unhappy with my s4a's gps performance since I bought the phone. It usually worked, but often needed 2-3 minutes for the first fix and often lost signal for a few minutes intermittently. Today I opened it up and noticed that the GPS antenna (or what I believe to be the GPS antenna) had apparently never been properly connected to the board. The springs had left no marks on the other side of the contacts (completely blank and spotless), unlike in all the other places where there are connections from the board to the midframe. Then I put a small, folded piece of tinfoil in as suggested in the link you posted and woohoo, only a few seconds now until I get my first fix outside and it can sometimes even get a fix inside my flat (a few meters away from the window at least, with 3 more floors above me), whereas before i had to hold my phone out of the window for that.
Now I am also curious whether or not that will reduce the heavy battery drain of gps logging while hiking in the mountains.
Also thanks for the hint about not following the disassembly instructions directly, since it seems one can easily break the midframe if unaware of the plastic clip above the battery holder. I used these instructions:
h t t p s : / /uuu.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Active/37470
With them and the appropriate tools, even I (theoretical physicist with thumbs on all fingers) found it easy to carry the task out.
(Sorry for the urls, I am not yet allowed to post links here, so replace uuu by www)
Also note that I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
h t t p s : / /uuu.youtube.com/watch?v=zm4f2XjQLAM
(at least that is where I put my tinfoil, maybe I am wrong and the effect I experience soley stems from me tightening the screws harder than they were before?)
Alright, now excuse me please, I have to catch that Pokemon which apparently spawned in my bathroom
My pleasure, glad I could help!
longpu said:
Thanks man, you nailed it! (I just signed up here to show my appreciation for your post, because otherwise I would probably not have come across the solution at all)
I had been somewhat unhappy with my s4a's gps performance since I bought the phone. It usually worked, but often needed 2-3 minutes for the first fix and often lost signal for a few minutes intermittently. Today I opened it up and noticed that the GPS antenna (or what I believe to be the GPS antenna) had apparently never been properly connected to the board. The springs had left no marks on the other side of the contacts (completely blank and spotless), unlike in all the other places where there are connections from the board to the midframe. Then I put a small, folded piece of tinfoil in as suggested in the link you posted and woohoo, only a few seconds now until I get my first fix outside and it can sometimes even get a fix inside my flat (a few meters away from the window at least, with 3 more floors above me), whereas before i had to hold my phone out of the window for that.
Now I am also curious whether or not that will reduce the heavy battery drain of gps logging while hiking in the mountains.
Also thanks for the hint about not following the disassembly instructions directly, since it seems one can easily break the midframe if unaware of the plastic clip above the battery holder. I used these instructions:
h t t p s : / /uuu.ifixit.com/Guide/Disassembling+Samsung+Galaxy+S4+Active/37470
With them and the appropriate tools, even I (theoretical physicist with thumbs on all fingers) found it easy to carry the task out.
(Sorry for the urls, I am not yet allowed to post links here, so replace uuu by www)
Also note that I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
h t t p s : / /uuu.youtube.com/watch?v=zm4f2XjQLAM
(at least that is where I put my tinfoil, maybe I am wrong and the effect I experience soley stems from me tightening the screws harder than they were before?)
Alright, now excuse me please, I have to catch that Pokemon which apparently spawned in my bathroom
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
longpu said:
I believe that the two antenna contacts shown on the pictures of your instructables howto are the wrong ones. That should be the 4G antenna, wheras the GPS antenna is on the opposite side as shown here at 3:30:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Much obliged for that!
I was able to download a service manual that appears to be an inside document bundle of Samsung. The GPS antenna is named 'ANT200', and it is in fact, on the other side of the PCB (left size, when looking at the PCB from the battery side of the phone, with the rear plastic assembly removed.)
Previously I tried the GPS fix by adding aluminum foils on the two other antenna connectors, which did not fix my GPS. adding the alumium on this single connector made a difference. (I actually also took it back out, to make sure this really helps.) However, still takes a while to get a fix. at least with my phone held outside my apartment.
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Proximity Sensor - Always Near (Screen coming unglued?) Blank screen in calls

Got my Nexus 6 in Dec '14, and have taken pretty good care of it. Hardly ever dropped, pretty much always in a protective case (but never used a screen protector and my screen isn't scratched or damaged)...
But just started having issue where when making phone call, the screen goes off, and couldn't get it back on.
After some searching, found the issue is the same as shown on this Youtube video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sguXflichEo
The screen/glass is coming up (raised) around the perimeter of the phone, esp in the top left corner (where proximity sensor is) and bottom right corner.
A sensor app (didn't use the same one as on the video but similar app called 'Sensors Test') shows proximity always at NEAR. If I press down on the glass/screen near the edge, can get it to change to FAR. Takes a decent amount of pressure. So, I can get the screen to come on during a call by doing that (and I guess could then switch to speakerphone, if I need to use screen for things like DTMF tones, etc)
Tried looking for how I can fix this and didn't really find anything. Anyone know how to get the screen back where it belongs? Was it glued at factory?
Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...
5.1 said:
Hi... Check this thread:
https://forum.xda-developers.com/nexus-6/development/mod-fix-proximity-sensor-5-1-rom-t3069031
It could be a different issue though...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I saw that thread (and lots of posts in a thread on the Google Product Support Forum) about the issue of screen protector interfering with the proximity sensor - but that is not my problem.
The proximity sensor works - it's the physical 'warping' of the screen coming up/apart from the rest of the phone. It's not a lot - casual looking at the phone you wouldn't notice - but on close inspection it is very noticeable.
My Fix (not sure for how long)...
I really wanted a solution without a disassembly of the phone (I'm pretty sure there's some glue or adhesive involved in keeping the screen assembly where it's supposed to be - as I examined my phone more closely, I could see remnant of it I think)... Just as I could press down on the screen and move it a few mm down where it should be, I could use fingernail and increase the gap. So, I decided to try something a bit risky : Gorilla Glue! (GG) I've used GG on lots of things, and enough to know not only is the stuff pretty incredible, but that it expands. Also it requires a bit of moisture in initial application.
So, using a moist paper towel, I put a very little bit of GG (drops), and then using fingernail, increased the gap enough to get just a tiny amount of GG at the left top corner of the screen, and then used a plastic spring-loaded clamp to keep the screen in place for 12+ hours. Also carefully wiped whatever trace of GG I could find immediately after putting the clamp on.
The result when turning phone back on: Proximity sensor correctly distinguishing between near and far - in other words - it works! Don't know how long this will last. And the glue/screen is still coming up in other areas that I did not try to fix...
Here's a photo of the opposite corner of the phone where you can see the screen coming up:
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and the clamp I used for the glue fix (it's tricky using a clamp with the curved back on the phone - had to place it nearer the center/speaker area)
I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:
5.1 said:
I must say WoW... Checking my N6 right now and can't see such gaps... Is the corner showing on the pic scratched? Could this problem be the result of some drop(s).
Glad you got it working now anyway. Good job..! :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, there's no scratch - the phone really is good condition (I used a cam to take that shot in macro mode so I think there is some out-of-focus/reflection).
In searching about this, it seems that original manufacture of phone used adhesive on the screen/digitizer and others have had this problem. I'd imagine the environment the phone is in can contribute.
And also, possibly, for me - the case I was using might have contributed - this Moku multi-part case has a hard plastic that grips the phone at the 4 corners and is not easy to remove. Now that I know, I'm going to use much more care when removing this. (Also, was using a magnetic card mount and had the metal disc between the phone and the silicone case and had to remove the outer hard plastic to use in the car. Recently changed that to putting the disc on the outside so longer have to remove it so frequently - only if I want to change sim card...)
https://www.amazon.com/Nexus-Case-Absorption-Scratchproof-Protective/dp/B00E4RV8DS/ref=sr_1_4?

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