Database Develop

TILT USB Charger Port Shot - NEW PHONE???

Long story short...I got my Tilt like a week and a half ago. Last night in the dark, I went to soft rest my phone, but instead stuck the stylus into the USB charge port. The pin connector spit in the middle and now one part of the pin connector on the phone is lower than the other. Eventually and after continual use, this pin will cease to function and I will be unable to active sync my phone or charge my battery. I have flashed to Dutty's 6.1 and love it. I no longer have the original ATT ROM.
I have checked with repair places and even ATT&T.
My question is this- Should I just buy another ATT&T tilt phone and lick my wounds (Seriously thinking about it) OR would it be better to just flash back to the original ATT&T ROM and then send it back to ATT&T for a replacement. I think by flashing Dutty’s ROM, it voids the phone, right? And of the latter method, reflashing back to ATT ROM, how difficult would this be? I was able to completely install Dutty’s ROM and all facets (even my sound and camera issues post) reading the posts on here so I figure it can’t be much harder to go back to the original ATT&T ROM. But then I think of how lazy I am and the amount of reading it took this noob to sift through just to be able to install Dutty’s 6.1 and somehow the money spent buying a new phone and forgoing all the work, is also appealing to me.
I would have posted this in the Kaiser Upgrading forum, but oddly, it’s missing.
~Gwen

SkunkyGwen said:
Long story short...I got my Tilt like a week and a half ago. Last night in the dark, I went to soft rest my phone, but instead stuck the stylus into the USB charge port. The pin connector spit in the middle and now one part of the pin connector on the phone is lower than the other. Eventually and after continual use, this pin will cease to function and I will be unable to active sync my phone or charge my battery. I have flashed to Dutty's 6.1 and love it. I no longer have the original ATT ROM.
I have checked with repair places and even ATT&T.
My question is this- Should I just buy another ATT&T tilt phone and lick my wounds (Seriously thinking about it) OR would it be better to just flash back to the original ATT&T ROM and then send it back to ATT&T for a replacement. I think by flashing Dutty’s ROM, it voids the phone, right? And of the latter method, reflashing back to ATT ROM, how difficult would this be? I was able to completely install Dutty’s ROM and all facets (even my sound and camera issues post) reading the posts on here so I figure it can’t be much harder to go back to the original ATT&T ROM. But then I think of how lazy I am and the amount of reading it took this noob to sift through just to be able to install Dutty’s 6.1 and somehow the money spent buying a new phone and forgoing all the work, is also appealing to me.
I would have posted this in the Kaiser Upgrading forum, but oddly, it’s missing.
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
go here. you already did the hardest part by upgrading. reverting back is even easier.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=335568

Reverting Back
Will do. I am going to see what I can get done in person at the ATT&T store this evening. If that fails, next step will be the Idiots Guide to Restoring your Phone. I had seen that when I was flashing Dutty's and never thought I would need it. Never say never.
Thanks
~Gwen

It may just be bent. You can try to gently bend it back into shape. Does it charge at all? I did the sanme thing & lost USB to PC & automotive charging only. I hope you didn't already tell AT&T you did this.
I called them after bending back into shape VERY GENTLY & told the that it charged at home via A/C but not via USB to PC or in the car. They told me that was impossible. I took it into the store, they verified it, & AT&T sent me a brand new one.
Just gingerly put it back into shape & call them back & say "my phone only charges from the A/C charger. I even took it into a store & the salesguy tried a new car charger & even in his vehicle. It won't work"
They will replace it & won't charge you. (if you can make it look semi-normal again) I've suggested this to several others & non of them have been charged either.

BTW, If you have HardSPL you can flash back using the SD card & return it clean!!!

What to do....
Hmm...What to do. What to do. I was hoping to just go into the store and be like, hey, what gives. I’ve had my phone less than two weeks and this morning when I unplugged my phone, look what happened, and show it to the salesman hoping he will take pity on me and believe my convoluted story that it just "broke" really. Add to that the phone being so, so new and it's worth a try right?
As far as gently bending back the pins. I have taken a closer look at the USB port it looks like the break starts on the far RIGHT end of the port between the last pin and second to last pin. The break is right in-between those two pins right down the middle. For an even closer look, I broke out my Surefire U2and a magnifying glass.It looks like the plastic piece is holding the pins in place even though there is a slit in the plastic on the right side. The phone charges currently and does sync with the computer, but for how long? I am afraid that if I gently bend the plastic piece back into place, it will only compound the problem, but if I am considering purchasing another phone anyway, what do I have to lose, right?
UPDATE: It's the plastic piece, not the pins which is in need of repair. I mean, the pins are connected to the plastic piece and the pins are still intact, but the plastic piece cannot be gently pushed back up because it will aggravate the crack already there and I am trying to preserve what little integrity of the phone and pins is left in terms of charging/syncing, etc until I get another phone. I guess the bright side to all of this is that I would have extra Tilt phone for parts with the exception of the USB port from the old phone to alleviate any future problems I cause to my own detriment and also as a way to hedge against my stupid ideas because as these mount, my bank account grows ever smaller.
I’ll let you know how it goes at the ATT&T store.
~Gwen

As I recall from your original thread, you are an attractive woman. Without sounding hopelessly out of touch (read chauvinistic), use that to your advantage. Heck, you could probably walk into Radioshack and get one of the geeks (er, I mean clerks) to give you anything for free. Imagine him that night texting his friends, "you'll never believe this, but I talked to an actual girl today, live and in person."
He would be a god to his friends and you would have what you wanted.
Seriously, if you walked into an AT&T store and told them your phone is only two weeks old and the USB port broke, why wouldn't they do a warranty exchange?

Why - I'll tell ya why
Becasue I flashed my phone to Dutty's 6.1 which voids the warranty. Yes. I can flash back to the original OEM and then return, but I am going to try the lazy route first. I'll let you know how it goes.
~Gwen

Hmmm. the lazy route....Isn't that what you wrote against in your "pat myself on the back any harder & I might fall over" post?
Also, there are currently 2 different types of USB ports on the device. On the fist you can see little square openings in each pin location (probably the one you have). Then there is one that is completely solid & more sturdy, this one is also usually associatwed with a tighter connection & from my experience can be bent back into shape.

umm....where to start....how about i have had att send me about 4 tilts.....i have had different issues and im not one to sit there and have it fixed etc, that is what my warranty is for so therefore i call it and have it replaced....i had the exact same issue that youhad. although i was able to bend it back and have it fixed no problem, it wasn't enough as i felt eventually it could become a problem. so they replaced it after i explained to them my issues. the only other related problem is please don't use other chargers (motorolas etc) as i am not sure if this has been addressed, but they have been known to burn and melt the piece in there and therefore not letting it charge at all on anything. just an fyi.
but yeah when it comes to att for anyone that is an att customer out there, if you don't know by now, you can get any phone you want. im not about scaming people etc, but at the same time if i am not satisfied to the slighests about something on this phone, that i came out of the pocket big time for, im going to call and have it replaced asap or as long as my warranty says it exists.
some did you knows that my sis "customer service rep for att 6 years"
you can have them send you out another phone, inform them you didnt get it, and they just send another (how dumb!!!)
if you have a discontinued or downgraded phone, going through warranty about 3 times will let you have a one time courtesy make and model change...i went from the 8525 to the tile for free.....yes for free!
just some fyi's folks!

SkunkyGwen said:
Becasue I flashed my phone to Dutty's 6.1 which voids the warranty. Yes. I can flash back to the original OEM and then return, but I am going to try the lazy route first. I'll let you know how it goes.
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your within 30 days of when you purchased it you can simply return it and get another device. If they hassle you simply return it and then the next day go back in a purchase another one.

AllTheWay said:
If your within 30 days of when you purchased it you can simply return it and get another device. If they hassle you simply return it and then the next day go back in a purchase another one.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree, this should be cake to return for a replacement, you could even get an advanced replacement via Fed-Ex in a day by phone which I did last year with an 8525.
After all that hard work, see, you should'nt had sex with it, or at least left the stylus out of the frey....
Truthfully, I watch a lot of streaming video at night using Slingbox on my Kaiser, and have come very close to the same disaster myself, feel for ya.
Just be sure and do a good backup to SD so the re-flash and restore of the new box will be painless

flash from sd
any help here on flash from sd i have tried and just get the white with blue screen for a split second and then the tricolor screen, any other suggestions tried with 1gig and 2gig san disk so far

Got a new phone amd I still have my dignity
UPDATE –
Well. I went back to ATT&T and they were really busy. Prior to getting there, I cleared everything personal off, did a hard reset followed by a soft reset and drained the battery completely. I put everything back into the box and removed the battery and the battery door and closed the box. They never turned on the phone or anything like that. I simply gave them my online receipt which they made a copy and then the guy came our and gave me brand new phone. I never even flashed back to the original ATT&T ROM. I just did the above and returned it.
So this saga closes and another opens. My latest saga is trying to find a hack to change the MMS attachment settings. On my old tilt with Dutty’s 6.1, I had no problem taking and sending videos in MMS or even SMS. Now, I get the, this file is too large to attach or whatever. I checked under the MMS options on the phone, but all that is listed is 300k on the drop down menu. I have searched the forums and even tried a couple of cabs to no avail. I am thinking it has to be a simple setting. After searching the forum for a total of 16 hours the last two days and trying the various cabs and settings in my phone, I cannot get the damn attachment settings above 300k so any video over 8 seconds, I get the File to large to attach, blah, blah, blah. If I record for 4 seconds, it attaches. WTF?
~Gwen

Mine did that in January. Just stopped working on car charging, but ok on the AC charger. Called at&t, they sent me a new one. Did yours look something like
this? Top pic was the old one, bottom pic the replacement.
Also note at the bottom of the broken connector, the metal has separated.
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p51d007 said:
Mine did that in January. Just stopped working on car charging, but ok on the AC charger. Called at&t, they sent me a new one. Did yours look something like
this? Top pic was the old one, bottom pic the replacement.
Also note at the bottom of the broken connector, the metal has separated.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Mine looks exactly like that. Same issue. Called ATT and told them it only worked while being plugged into the charger that came with the Tilt, but also told them it worked sporadically, and even though it always worked while connected to a PC I told them it only worked half the time to ensure that I would get a new Tilt. Its really easy to have them change this but you CANNOT say at all, that the connector looks damaged in any way, just bend it back to make it look straight and everyone should be fine. The guy tried to trick me into saying that I broke it but I wouldnt give in. They are sending me out a new phone this week and was wondering if anyone had theirs replaced did they have it replaced with the new Mini USB port of the old one? ie new one has no gap between the connects where as the new one does not.
Brian

MMS set Max Size Limit to 600k
SkunkyGwen said:
. . . My latest saga is trying to find a hack to change the MMS attachment settings. On my old tilt with Dutty’s 6.1, I had no problem taking and sending videos in MMS or even SMS. Now, I get the, this file is too large to attach or whatever. I checked under the MMS options on the phone, but all that is listed is 300k on the drop down menu. I have searched the forums and even tried a couple of cabs to no avail. I am thinking it has to be a simple setting. After searching the forum for a total of 16 hours the last two days and trying the various cabs and settings in my phone, I cannot get the damn attachment settings above 300k so any video over 8 seconds, I get the File to large to attach, blah, blah, blah. If I record for 4 seconds, it attaches. WTF?
~Gwen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
With a registry editor, go to:
HKLM\Software\Arcsoft\Arcsoft MMS UA\Config\UI\SizeLimit
Set these dwords with the following HEX values:
RecvLimit1 32000
RecvLimit2 64000
RecvLimit3 96000
SendLimit1 32000
SendLimit2 64000
SendLimit3 96000
See this thread for discussion.
I have this register entry saved so I can import it into the registry after any new flash.
EDIT: I see that you got this answered in the thread that you started separately, but for anyone just seeing the above, here it is without looking further.

im having the saaaaaaaame problem too, but my tilt ONLY charges on the pc and not in the car or at home..for some reason..i took it to att and they said sorry cant help you..you have had it for 6 months already..how about buying another one..i just looked at em and walked out. 600 bucks down the drain.

Help, I think I broke it!

I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.

Mike Channon has much information on this, here is one link, you need to search for the rest.
http://michael-channon.mobile.spaces.live.com/ent.aspx?h=cns!4472423472DCFC38!287&fp=/top.aspx

Thanks for that, but the his guides are the ones I followed already...
Been searching for ages, all I need is one person who knows what the problem is. Is that too much to ask?
I'll keep trying for now.
Thanks again. Anyone have any other ideas they are more than welcome. Any Ideas at all. I'm desperate to sort this out!

Bumpity bump....

My intuition tells me you will have to take it back apart and look for the problem in, on or near the sliding mechanism and sensor. I'd bet you just re-assembled it a little incorrectly thus activating the slide sound and screen flip sensor. Perhaps a pinched wire or something...either way it needs to come back apart and examined closely. Or maybe I am wrong and someone else has a better idea..hope so!
Best of luck to ya!

Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.

matmaneyre said:
Thanks, but I've done that so many times. I've looked all around it, swapped the sliding mechanism (as I now have 2), swapped the actual keyboard, put everything back to how it was originally before I swapped the housing, nothing.
What I really need to know is what triggers the screen rotation and sliding sound. I can't for the life of me see what it is. Unless it's something to do with the main board, in which case I'm pretty knackered.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From what i understand, there are magnets that trigger screen rotation. Im sure your going to ask me were they are, and my answer is have no idea. But my best quess is under the screen and one under the keyboard. So I hope I have helped you.

That would make sense actually, thanks for that. Now to grab my T6 screwdriver and start again...

Ok, so now I get the general gist of how the screen orientation mechanism works with the magnets, I have since found one magnet underneath the screen, but I still cannot find what this magnet relates to in order to switch the screen orientation. i have checked both of my housings and the main board but still to no avail. If anyone else understands this mechanism a bit better, any info would be greatly appreciated.
I'm getting closer, but still not quite there!

matmaneyre said:
I bought a new housing for my XDA Stellar as I had dropped it a couple of times and it was starting to look a little unloved. I followed a step-by-step dismantling guide to get the housing off and followed it in reverse to get the new one on. All went well and I was very pleased as I had changed it from being branded O2 to HTC. However, when I booted up, as it loaded the today screen it played the keyboard sliding sound and the screen flipped to landscape, as if I had the keyboard out. No matter what I do I cannot get it to recognise that it is shut. I have had the thing in pieces countless times and so far spent seven hours on the damn thing altogether. I can't see what I have done wrong. Everything seems to be exactly as it was originally.
At the moment I am making do with using it in landscape mode constantly. The only other way to rotate the screen is manually through the screen settings, but this defeats the object of the automatic rotation. And annoyingly, the button on the HTC Home launcher tab rotates it the wrong way!
I know this kind of stuff is less often talked about on here but if anyone has any experience of the hardware or with dismantling/reassembling the kaiser/stellar/tilt, absolutely any help will be immensely gratefully received.
In the meantime, I am gutted...
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, don't build up your hopes based on the following - it is by way of things to look for ONLY.
I have not made by own detailed pics of the Kaiser so far and I have not located the magnet or receiver switch - mainly 'cos I wasn't looking for them.
However here is the TyTn / Hermes. It MAY be similar to the Kaiser so it MAY give you ideas on what to look for/check.
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Not the nost impressive looking thing is it!!
This is what a magnet sensor switch looks like. But importantly it will obviously need to be connected to the circuit either by ribbon cable or directly onto the m/board. In the case of the Hermes above it is on the KEYBOARD ribbon cable - so on the opposite side of the above is this:-
Thus we can see that sliding the keyboard across the sensor operates a switch built into thye keyboard ribbon cable.
Now, I'm not sure exactly where you located the magnet, but is it possible that it has come loose and is no longer in the correct position.
Check ribbon cables for a switch.
I will dismantle and take pics to show all this, but unfortunately the coming week is a bit hectic so next weekend may be the first opportunity - you may beat me to it!!
Mike
Update (for Kaiser): The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.

Update: Kaiser specific.
The receiver switch is very close to the "A" key on the hardware keyboard. In fact to check the switch open the slide out keyboard and pass a magnet near the "A" key should change the orientation from lanscape to portrait.
If it does not you have a switch problem. If it does then your magnet is not positioned correctly.
Mike

Excellent Mike. Thanks so much.
Now it makes a huge amount of sense, but please don't dismantle your tytn II for my sake in case you encounter more unecessary problems. I know exactly what I'm looking for now from your pictures of the Tytn/Hermes. In fact, I've already seen it, I just didn't know what it was before. It is located right at the very bottom of the keyboard attached to the end of a ribbon. I know the magnet I found is definitely in the right place as I didn't even notice it before KD8DNS mentioned the magnet mechanism and it is fixed in place.
To help others who may encounter this, I will upload a pic of the switch and magnet ASAP. I'm using Vista on a laptop at the moment which I don't connect my device to so I'll do that on my XP desktop when I can. I will also post my findings as and when (or if!).
Thanks a buch mikechannon! Just what I was after.
EDIT>> Also thanks to KD8DNS! (almost forgot)

Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.

matmaneyre said:
Well, having taken the whole thing apart and locating the orientation switch and magnet, I STILL cannot get it to orientate accordingly. Having had so much hope, I am now at a loss, short of buying a new untouched housing to see if it works. The switch seems to be in the right place, as does the magnet. I'm stuck again after so much hope.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong but I have the feeling this is not something major. If you open the keyboard and pass a magnet around the "A" key - does it rotate the screen?
Mike

I appreciate your enthusiasm, Mike, but it is impossibe to 'open up' the keyboard without disconnecting the battery, as the frame around the keyboard also holds the battey in.
I was right though..you were the best person to ask!
I will see what I can do (i.e holding the battery on manually while tesing the switch, although this is a little awkward). If this doesn't work, I would say both of the switches that I have available to test with are faulty. How likely is that?

Well after all that it was all in vain...while trying to fix my kaiser I dropped it, smashing the screen 2 smitherines. As a result, the touch screen doesn't work, the memory card isn't recognised & it won't charge or sync. I had all the case off at the time so the impact between the components & the floor was brutal. Not 2 worry tho, as the missus insisted I buy a new one, so,with permission, I've just ordered a Touch Pro. Better not tell her how much it cost eh?
Thanks to mikechannon in particular & all other people who had an input on this. I never managed 2 solve it but I'm sure if I'd had more time I'd have cracked it in the end (& I don't mean the LCD, I managed that!)
So this is goodbye from me to the Kaiser forum. Just gotta wait for a Touch Pro one now!!!
Thanks 2 all again.
Matmaneyre
HTC Kaiser 28/01/08 - 09/07/08 - R.I.P.

Nook install in a Jeep Wrangler

Hey all! It's been a while since someone posted any vehicle install pics in this forum, so I thought I'd catch you all up on a little project of mine. I started it earlier this year, but now have it almost completed. Some of this was previously posted on another forum, so I apologize in advance if something doesn't make sense or seems out of context. I'll fill in any gaps, and answer any questions you may have.
I started with a car dock for my phone attached to a Bracketron mount. I'll be able to tether the phone's internet access with the Android tablet I'll be using as a head unit.
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I'm going to be using a rooted Nook Color, and in order to fit it in place, I needed to move the HVAC controls. After pulling the center bezel off and looking around, it appeared that the controls could be moved down after a little cutting and duct modification. Here is the end result after fabbing a pair of new brackets. I've still got to make a new surround to fill the gap.
In addition to the Nook, I'm adding a Hifonics HFEQ. This will allow me fine control over the signal being sent to the amps. I can switch between inputs and use it as the main volume control.
The approximate position of the Nook...
I'm using a tablet mount from RAM, and I've got to figure out a good way to mount it. That's coming up soon!
Now one last thing. I have a bluetooth OBDII reader installed for the Nook. I reversed the plug and bent it up slightly to keep it out of the way. I'll be able to use an Android app called Torque to read all relevent Jeep data.

Update time! I needed to get the Nook mount in place, and modify the center bezel. I had a lot of options when it came to mounting, but I wanted to keep it simple, and by default reliable. If it won't take abuse, it's not worth putting in a Jeep. So, I decided to utilize my existing Quadratec iVault. It has served me well for the past year or so, and now it was getting a few more holes... The idea was to eventually make a storage compartment behind the face, and use the face itself to hold the RAM mount. Now, I do realize that nothing is ever truly safe in a Jeep, but there are times I need to stash something quickly while running in to a store. The Nook itself would likely get put in there.
So, let's start with the mods. Due to the mounting points in the RAM, I needed to move the existing iVault lock to the left. I drilled a hole, and shaped it with my Dremel. This was the result.
Now I needed to make a few holes for the RAM mount.
Now finally the mount and iVault face are bolted together.
It was time for a test fit. As you can see, it attaches nicely. Now one could argue about the aesthetics of it's spacing away from the the bezel as it is, but it works well for me. It's within easy reach, and most importantly, nothing is blocked. That was a priority here. I've seen installs where the vents are unusable, or the HVAC controls are inaccessible. That may technically work, but I couldn't live with it. There was no way I wanted to sacrifice any function just to do something cool. That's also the reason the Nook isn't more tightly integrated into the bezel. It needs to be easily removable, and make for easy maintenance should it be needed.
Now, let's take a look at the Hifonics EQ. It's very easy to use in this location, but I'm not sure the pic is doing it justice. I have to do something about the gap above it though. I can't just shove a fill plate in there and call it good. I've got to fix it the right way. You can see the hole I added for access to the iVault lock.
So, it was time to do a little cutting. I've got everything marked out and ready for the Dremel.
After the cuts...
Let's clamp that piece in place...
I cut a piece of plexi to fit behind the hole, and epoxied it in place. Once the epoxy cures, it will get smoothed out with a fiberglass reinforced Bondo.
After a few light layers of Bondo and subsequent sanding, I gave it a quick shot of primer. Here you can see the fresh primer still in the process of drying. A few more coats and it will be like glass. I dare you to say it doesn't look completely OEM.
The last thing I did was reassemble everything to triple check fitment. It all looks good, so it's on to mounting the EQ solidly, and getting a fill plate made for the HVAC. Then it's painting and final assembly!

Well, after not doing much for a week, I tried to be productive last night. I swapped cases on my Nook Color to something more appropriate for the Jeep. I still need to get some hardwiring done, and also build custom touch contacts for docking. I'm just waiting on some parts from Mouser.com.

When I last left off, I was waiting for a few parts to arrive. Once they did, I set out to make the Nook easily docked in the Jeep. A lot of the more expensive tablets, such as the Samsung Galaxy Tab, make docking a breeze. Of course you have to spend nearly twice as much on the tablet to do so. That would defeat the purpose of doing this mod in the first place. Affordable and durable are 2 very important criteria here, and I've got to stick to the concept.
So, let's address the power issues first. The Nook needs to be able to be charged once it's in the cradle, and there's no way I was willing to plug/unplug in a power cord every time I wanted to take it in or out. The tablet is supposed to simplify things while bringing more features. If I can't accomplish that, then I was better off leaving a regular head unit in place. I wanted to just grab it and go.
Getting power to the Nook started with one of these. It's a micro USB plug with a board and solder points. You can see a test fit with the Nook in the cradle.
Next I had to mark out a small area that needed notching. This would allow the USB plug to seat fully in the Nook.
After the notching...
Okay, so now it was time to figure out a way to mount the plug to the cradle. I needed something simple, strong, and clean. I decided to bend some plexi and cut it to size.
Now that I had a mounting system in place, it was time to wire the plug. The method you see below allows for a USB extension cable to be added easily to the cradle.
In the next update I'll finish the power dock, and move on to a revised dash mount (I'm never satisfied!)

I've got a sneak peek at the almost finished install here. The biggest addition is stainless steel bar that now sits in front of the EQ. This bar will help protect it from bouncing and stray objects or people. The bar also serves a secondary purpose. It does a pretty good job of hiding the EQ from anyone peering in the windows when the top is on. Although I didn't get pics of the process, the bar is fastened to aluminum plates that are epoxied behind the bezel. It's pretty strong, and certainly isn't going anywhere.
It may be subtle, but you might also notice the tablet and mount are now sitting closer to the dash than in previous pics. I redesigned the mount and made it more secure while giving it a cleaner look.
With most of the work done, I'm now going to focus on a few smaller details. I'll cover that and finish this update in an upcoming post.

Touch contacts... I've mentioned them several times in the past, and now I've finally got a few pics to show you what I'm talking about. First though, my reasoning for implementing them. For it's price, the Nook Color is a brilliant piece of hardware. It's solidly built, and has a better screen than most tablets over twice it's price. The cheaper cost makes for a few missing features compared to other tablets, but when you consider this is marketed as an e-reader, it's pretty understandable. I've mentioned how I couldn't justify spending more on an Android tablet that would see some potential abuse. So, I had to get creative to overcome what the Nook was missing, particularly a docking port of some kind. If you've got to plug and unplug cables into the tablet each time you get in and out, it becomes a huge pain. You've already seen me fab a micro-usb connecter into a tablet dock. Now it was time to move on to the audio.
I've used these touch contacts from Mouser.com on other computer modding projects, and knew they would be perfect for what I'm trying to do here.
One of the most important aspects of this mod, was that I wouldn't have to change anything on the Nook itself. I wanted to leave it structurally intact. Should anything happen to the Nook, and I need to get it replaced, I won't have to redo any of my work. It also means I could sell it if I want, and not affect it's value in anyway. The Trident case I chose for the Nook is a critical part of this mod, and was bought specifically with this in mind.
Here I've found a flat, open area, and marked it for cutting.
A little time with the Dremel and a file left me with a perfect fit...
Up next, was a custom cable made from an angled 3.5mm plug and length of USB wire. (I only needed 3 conductor wire, but chose to use this due to it's increased thickness.)
Although I didn't take a picture of it, to fit the cable in the case, I drilled a small hole in one end, and used the Dremel to create a very shallow channel behind the case to route the wires to the touch contact. I soldered the wires to the contact, and put the case on the Nook.
As you can see above, the fit is excellent, and the function is even better. The case is removable without harming the Nook, and I've not compromised functionality in anyway. When the tablet is out of the Jeep, the contacts are unobtrusive, and should I need to use headphones, I can simply unplug without affecting anything.
Up next, the dock will get some contacts of it's own...

As promised, the dock now has contacts. It couldn't have been simpler. I cut a rectangle to fit the touch contacts, epoxied it in place from the back, and soldered on a 3.5mm plug. The dock was reinstalled in the dash, and I was done!
So, what now? We'll I plan on taking some video of how easy it is to dock, and some of the tablet's basic features. That should give you some idea of how well things really work together, and why I really love this setup.

Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!

spamolamo said:
Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! It is very solid, and a great solution overall for a vehicle like the Wrangler. Any other vehicle and I would have integrated it into the dash itself. It didn't make sense to do that here, but I wanted to make sure it was more custom than 'just throwing a dock on the dash.'

holy cow.....very nice!

Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.

Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.

misterbbq said:
holy cow.....very nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I always try to keep my work clean. The irony is that the Jeep itself its rarely clean.
grindill said:
Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I wanted it to be easy to use. In or out, and just go. Who wants to spend time messing with cables?
dna59 said:
Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, yeah, posting this here was long overdue. Just do it... you know you wanna!

Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App

Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.

cchant said:
Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man!
w0mbl3 said:
Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook is set up to use host mode. I've got the cable and adapters, but haven't installed them yet. I planned ahead so it's a simple plug and play from cables I can reach through my glove box. I am experimenting with a SSD based hot swap usb device. It 'usually' works, but I'm going to do some more testing before I go ahead with it. I've got around 40gb of music I'd like accessible at all times if I'm going to do it right.
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness. I do have a shut off switch if I don't drive the Jeep for extended periods, but otherwise it's always on. The power draw is so minimal that I'm not in the least concerned about battery drainage. If it did happen, then I'd want to replace the battery anyway, as it has no business in my Jeep.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.

craigbru said:
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !

w0mbl3 said:
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should clarify. I'm using one of these wired to constant 12v. The Nook is receiving a standard 5 volts from a USB cable.
I'm using this adapter, and it's been flawless. It picks up the GPS signal quickly, and pairing takes only a second. It's kept it's pairing at a distance of about 5 feet during testing, but as it sits in the Jeep, it's only about 2 feet away. I've never had it lose connection.

What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.

222psm said:
What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently using Google, but I'm caching the maps. I've not tried it with other software yet, but I'd certainly like to. It's on my list of things yet to do.

Audi A4 In Dash Install

While I already have this posted over at Rootzwiki, I figured it would make sense to post it over here for the wider audience. There may be some parts missing from here (copying useful parts over, and the thread covers a few months), but the full thread can easily be found. I am using Timur's ROM, and installing the Nexus into my 2006 Audi A4. Ever since I bought the car I have been annoyed/disappointed with the factory stereo, for one thing it has a tape deck (why a car made in 2006 has a tape deck, is something that will forever confuse me). It also has no bluetooth, no GPS, no way to add an aux input except using a cassette type adaptor. All in all, its pretty limited. My options for replacing it were either an RNS-E ($800+) or an aftermarket unit (cost of aftermarket unit + approximately $200 in wiring to get it functional).
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I have already replaced everything downstream of the head unit, starting with a JBL MS8, I then have a pair of Alpine amplifiers running all of my speakers. The sound is good, but just something about the original head unit always bugged me. On an Audi forum I am a member of, I recently saw someone had mentioned they were looking to install an iPad into their dash. That got the wheels turning, and before you know it. I was holding my wifes Kindle Fire up to the dash.
Since the fitment was good, I decided to go ahead with the project. Bought a 16GB Nexus 7, I went with the 16GB because I don't plan to store a whole lot on the tablet itself. I also started ordering a bunch of supplies that I would need:
Dash kit
12V DC-DC Regulator
Fuse Tap
OTG Cable
USB Hub
90 degree mini USB connector
Sabre USB-DAC
I thought about leaving the Nexus stock for a couple weeks, but after about a day rooted it and flashed with Timur's USB ROM. I removed my stock head unit from the car, plugged the JBL MS8 into the 3.5mm output, and nothing. I then realized that the MS8 currently gets a remote turn on signal from my OEM head unit. Currently I am trying to locate a switchable 12V somewhere, but likely will end up using the fuse tap.
Here is where things look so far:
The kit is not pushed all the way back in, this was really just for test fitment purposes. Since I don't yet have the fuse tap, I want to keep my OEM head unit in there for a couple more weeks. Mental note: If you think you are going to sneeze when using a Dremel, switch off the Dremel:
In order to get the Nexus to sit flush, I had to dremel off some material on the back of the dash kit. The scratch is only noticeable at certain angles, but I may well pick up another dash kit at some point. Once my 90 degree USB connector arrives I need to figure out which of the area's in red below I need to cut some away from. They are simply plastic, that I think help hold the stock head unit in place. So I should be able to cut a notch out for the USB cable to go through:
That's about the extent of my progress for now. As I am currently waiting on a few things to arrive in the mail. Ultimately I will have the Nexus semi permanent in the dash (I want to be able to remove it if parked in high crime areas), USB-OTG cable plugged in, then a USB hub, with the USB-DAC sending signal to the MS8, and an iPod flashed with Rockbox as external storage in the glovebox for music. I plan to use my cell phone and bluetooth tethering for streaming music / navigation. At some point I am also going to pick up a Connects2 harness and Joycon to retain my steering wheel controls, and am also keeping an eye on the useage of an easycap in order to add a back up cam.
Original Rootzwiki Link: http://rootzwiki.com/topic/39361-2006-audi-a4-in-dash-install/
Edit: Had a few people asking me for the launcher, it should now be attached to this post. The black border was in order to keep the image centralized on my home screen. Along with this image I just used UCCW to create hotspots for opening the apps.

Bit of an update from today...
Safety first when working on the car.
Pulled out the glovebox, knee bolster on the drivers side and trunk trim in order to run wiring. I had to run a new remote turn on wire to my MS8 as there is no switchable 12v in the trunk. Power and ground to the fuse box area, and I wanted to run a USB extension into the glovebox for my flash drive.
For now I ended up removing the inline fuse that I was using behind the fuse box on the 12v going to the 12v regulator, I may add it again, but have it tapped into a fused circuit, so not sure I need to.
I got 99% of things working today, my ground wire to the USB hub needs to be re-done. The wires are so thin that the splice was not working, for now I just have them twisted together. I did get music playing through the MS8, and my USB flash drive was mounting fine. The other issue I am running into is when I turn off the ignition, the hub loses power instantly, causing the Nexus to give me a warning about improper removal of USB storage. I am trying to find out if there is a way to use Tasker to unmount the storage. But, I don't think I can get it to work, as the second the ignition goes off, the hub loses power. I may just have to manually unmount each time (which sucks).
The other thing is that I need to trim some more plastic to the right of the tablet, due to the 90 degree micro USB adapter, and charger cable, the dash trim does not seem to fit in properly. I am planning to finish these pieces up tomorrow, and then see how it does with my commute to work on Tuesday.

Last update for the weekend, mostly working.
I glued a couple small pieces of foam at the top to push the Nexus outwards, I may add something to the bottom as well to make it sit a little more flush. Somewhat afraid to remove it at the moment though, due to the USB issue with the cable being knocked slightly causing it to lose connection. I do want to think of a solution though, as like I said, I want to be able to remove it from the car.
Took a quick test drive into town and back (about 30 miles of driving) audio / power did not cut out at all. Battery went from 78% when I left, and was back up to 83% when I got home. Spent half the time streaming music from the flash drive, the other half streaming over Slacker using Bluetooth tethered to my cell phone.
Next steps are to save up for a CAN-BUS interface, and then pick up a Joycon. Having had to change the volume via the screen, I want to use steering wheel controls. It's difficult to accurately adjust the volume, so I want the steering wheel option back. I also need to try and think of what to do with the USB. If I can find a charger cable with a shorter plug section, that may work as I can remove the 90 degree bend. But, most I have looked (I have 3 different kinds laying around the house) all have a similar length to them. I also need to re-calibrate my MS8, the center image is slightly off to the left with the Nexus. I am also likely going to refine my Tasker profiles at some point.
The one issue I did have after going for a drive, was that the Nexus froze when I got home. I am 99.9% sure it was my fault though. When I was running wires, I had the battery disconnected, which caused my key-fob remote to be out of sync with the car. To sync it back up, you put it in the ignition, turn the ignition on, push the lock button, then turn the ignition off again. I did this in fairly quick sequence, which I think caused Tasker to lock up as it was still powering everything on, when I removed power again. I had to pop the dash trim off, and reboot using the power button. Working fine now though (still need to sync the key).

I drilled a larger hole today for my new USB cable (the hole is a mess as I had to use my Dremel, and there is 0 room to work there, especially as the tan piece to the right is a visible piece of the dash that I don't want to tear up):
What's annoying is that while USPS say my new cable has been delivered, it's not in my mailbox
Next thing I need to do is figure out a better way to make the Nexus sit flush against the bezel. I could tape it, but would prefer not to do that. In the first picture above, the blue box is around a piece that I glued some foam to, but it came off (I only used a small amount of glue). I may go this route again, the only other option is to try to fabricate some kind of hook system to the back of the bezel, but I am there is not much room on the back:
The advantage to making some kind of hook system though, is that it will likely hold the tablet nicely against the bezel, and make it a little easier for removal/installaiton. You can see in the bottom right of the bezel where I had to cut a section out, this kept pushing on the power / volume rocker when I was installing it in the car causing it to either end up muted, or power off.
I wish that cable were in my mailbox!! I might try to get things working in its current configuration at least for my drive to work tomorrow. Chances are I will get annoyed with it cutting out though, and give in.
Edit: So, just went down to the garage to take a look at things. Seems like I need a new OTG cable, I was looking at the male end of mine that would plug into the Nexus, and noticed it at a slight angle, if I touch it, I see it spark. Not sure if that's a result of it being a cheap Chinese cable, or the plug being pushed at an angle by the dash. Either way it means I am now having to find another OTG Y-cable, which I will be lucky to get before Monday. I may try to look inside at the pins, just to make sure there is not something that has fallen in there causing a short. But, at the same time am not sure I want to risk my equipment on it.
Thankfully I can use my phone to listen to music on the way to work and back.

Here is my awesome fix for getting rid of the gap:
Yes, that is elastic from some underwear. LOL. I did not want to buy some elastic if it did not work, so figured what the heck, use some elastic from some boxer shorts. Works perfectly, holds the Nexus up against the bezel, and is strong enough that I can hold onto the plastic with the Nexus in there, and it won't fall out.
The gap that is left though is due to a slight curvature in the bezel:
Currently I am not sure what to do about that piece, if I try to sand it flat then I essentially am going to have to sand the top and bottom lip away almost completely. I have a new trim piece coming that should match the interior a little better, not sure if that is curved or not yet though, if it is as well, I may just deal with that piece. When it's in the car it's not too bad, and I don't know that I want to eliminate the bottom/top lip to have that piece flat.
Also, since I don't think I posted this picture yet, here is the downward facing micro USB cable from usbfirewire.com:

Some new parts arrived today, first new trim piece, this matches the dash perfectly. I just hope I can get it to work as it seems deeper than my current one.
Also my Joycon arrived, with pre-shrunk heat shrink... LOL. We have had unseasonably warm temperature here the last 2 days (90F) so I think the heat shrink did what it was supposed to do.
Finally the CAN-BUS adapter arrived as well.
I am hoping to get the Joycon installed this evening

After getting the Joycon installed, I also went ahead and ended up ordering a DCDC-USB, I had been having various odd issues and it turns out that most of them were a combination of poor power, and poor connections. I created a pigtail to connect to the DCDC-USB that has 2 female USB ports, one of them provides power to the hub, the other to the Nexus. Also running a Jabra Journey to route phone calls through. Charging rate is awesome, my battery typically gets to full during a single drive to work, and remains full all week long. Here is how the Nexus currently sits in the dash:
And here is a launcher I am working on:
It's supposed to mimic the RNS-E, so far it's not quite where I want it to be as I want to use %MTRACK to have a basic text of what song is playing, and not use the current widget. Apart from that though I am pretty happy with it.
Next things to do are to try and program a button on my steering wheel to activate voice search on the Nexus, possibly a back up camera and that's about it really.

Pretty neat!

Very cool! You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:

bhess said:
Pretty neat!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks.
~wolverine~ said:
You made me LOL when I saw the Hanes. :good:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha yep, that worked surprisingly well for holding the Nexus in place!

That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!

So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?

Awesome mate.:good:

Very nice build. A lot better than my setup in a 98 Dakota Sport (cheap eBay dock and an old droid 2)
Sent from my XT907 using xda premium

Freshtojeff said:
That looks pretty darn good man! From a fellow A4 owner (06 A4) I got stuck with the symphony II as well and was looking to upgrade to the RNS-E but I just don't know if i wanna pay that much, but i do prefer the OEM look over aftermarket. Looking how you got this thing set up and diggin the RNS look a like launcher, I might just need to get another nexus and have a side project. Subbed man! Will be willing to share the launcher? Keep us posted!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
CreepyE said:
So what are you doing to keep your n7 from getting so hot in such a confined and unventilated space?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.

naiku said:
I kept looking to upgrade to the RNS-E as well, but it's typically $800 cost, plus the wiring harness costs required put me off. I can definitely share the launcher, I am still working on it some, but as soon as I am happy with it can send you a copy. It's the 1st launcher I have put together, so a bit of trial and error at the moment. I would need to figure out a way to share it all as one thing, at the moment it's a combination of a background, and UCCW widgets. If nothing else, I can certainly help you getting it set up on your Nexus.
Absolutely nothing, well, I put a sunshade up in my windshield, but that's it. So far I have had no issues with it, and that has been with the 100F+ temperatures that the inside of the car can see in the Virginia summer. I thought about modifying the A/C ductwork that runs behind/above the tablet, but at the moment see no real need to do so.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Great work I installed one in my friend b6 a4

Good work on this Audi, seems original not custom made. Congratulations!

Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?

TampaChris said:
Excuse my ignorance, but the CAN-BUS adapter is used with the Joycon? The Joycon does not function as a steering wheel control on its own?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.

naiku said:
The Joycon only reads resistance based signals, which CAN-BUS is not, so the adapter essentially takes the CAN-BUS signal and converts it into a resistance type signal that the Joycon is then able to interpret.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just bought a joycon for my mazda 3. Do i need this adapter? i thought i can go from the steering wheel harness into the joycon into the USB hub. Will this not work?

Getting "Charging blocked due to moisture" error every time I try to charge

I've been getting this error every few days since I got the phone, but now I've gone a day without being able to plug it in (this is why I only buy phones with wireless charging). I tried rebooting, shutting it down for a while, etc.
And it's gotten nowhere near water.
Any solutions for this? Do I just need to take it to a t-mo store and ask?

knoxjon said:
I've been getting this error every few days since I got the phone, but now I've gone a day without being able to plug it in (this is why I only buy phones with wireless charging). I tried rebooting, shutting it down for a while, etc.
And it's gotten nowhere near water.
Any solutions for this? Do I just need to take it to a t-mo store and ask?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd already be on my way back to the store. Besides, it's supposed to be water resistant- take it back let them figure it out
Cheers,
StevenRN

steven.rn said:
I'd already be on my way back to the store. Besides, it's supposed to be water resistant- take it back let them figure it out
Cheers,
StevenRN
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I got the same problem since 3 days ago, I think it is a software bug, as my G6 charges when it's off but gives me the same error when it's on! try to charge it while off. I am looking to find the actual problem, if anyone know why this happens??

Solved for me
knoxjon said:
I've been getting this error every few days since I got the phone, but now I've gone a day without being able to plug it in (this is why I only buy phones with wireless charging). I tried rebooting, shutting it down for a while, etc.
And it's gotten nowhere near water.
Any solutions for this? Do I just need to take it to a t-mo store and ask?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I took my phone to spain and it had loads of sand on it by the beach. I couldn't charge due to the moisture warning for 3 days. Eventually i found a solution. I loaded a bathroom sink with about 2/3rds water. I swilled only the port area in the sink. I then dried the phone as well as possible. I screwed a thin tissue paper up and dabbed round the port. I then found a rectangle piece of card (it was a clothes price tag) it was probably 1 millimetre thick and i pushed it in deep into the usb port to aid cleaning using the corners of the tag. It solved the issue and didnt break anything and cleaned out some of the deep sand and cotton that wasnt drying at 30 celicus heat this week. Saved me claiming on my insurance and the headache of installing all my apps etc. Try it, but be very careful with the card tag as you dont want to break any terminals in the usb slot. I used this forum to try and find a fix and i couldn't, hence me putting my solution on here.

bhupindra said:
I took my phone to spain and it had loads of sand on it by the beach. I couldn't charge due to the moisture warning for 3 days. Eventually i found a solution. I loaded a bathroom sink with about 2/3rds water. I swilled only the port area in the sink. I then dried the phone as well as possible. I screwed a thin tissue paper up and dabbed round the port. I then found a rectangle piece of card (it was a clothes price tag) it was probably 1 millimetre thick and i pushed it in deep into the usb port to aid cleaning using the corners of the tag. It solved the issue and didnt break anything and cleaned out some of the deep sand and cotton that wasnt drying at 30 celicus heat this week. Saved me claiming on my insurance and the headache of installing all my apps etc. Try it, but be very careful with the card tag as you dont want to break any terminals in the usb slot. I used this forum to try and find a fix and i couldn't, hence me putting my solution on here.
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I got mine working via a similar method & haven't had the problem since. It's only given me the warning once since then, and a reboot fixed it.

knoxjon said:
I got mine working via a similar method & haven't had the problem since. It's only given me the warning once since then, and a reboot fixed it.
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Aaand my phone is doing it again. 24 hours and unable to charge except wirelessly or by plugging it in when it's turned off. Trouble is, I'm going out of town tomorrow and am counting on it for GPS.
edit: there's some relationship between the moisture alert and charging settings in developer options. Some people seem to be able to fix it totally that way, but I am seeing only partial success.

Same has happened to me. I am resetting right now to see if this works.

Any luck? They are replacing mine, but it's going to take a week or so.

This has been occurring on my device for a while as well. Usually the reboot while keeping the device plugged in would reset the software bug and charging would continue like normal. Now I can't get the phone past 4 or 5 percent charged. Every time I try to power off the device and charge that way, the phone automatically turns on after it gets to about 5 percent, and the cycle repeats with the charging blocked due to moisture in the usb port error. This is certainly very frustrating, not to mention I also had the weird camera glass cover anomaly where the glass shatters outside the lens, rendering my standard camera lens unusable with a foggy/smoky effect due to the glass on the outside cracked. I loved my LG G4, but I don't know about LG after this debacle of events. I too have tried changing charging settings in developer options with no success. I will be taking this back to T-Mobile tomorrow unless some miracle happens.

knoxjon said:
Any luck? They are replacing mine, but it's going to take a week or so.
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Nope it did not work. My next trick is to put it in a silica bag if that does not work I will take it back to T-mobile.

I keep seeing people come to this thread with hopes of a fix. I highly recommend you return your device if you have this issue. I have taken my G6 through the ringer at the water park (swimming, water slides, etc.) and have not once received this warning. It must be a defect.

Milly7 said:
I keep seeing people come to this thread with hopes of a fix. I highly recommend you return your device if you have this issue. I have taken my G6 through the ringer at the water park (swimming, water slides, etc.) and have not once received this warning. It must be a defect.
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Caught between a rock and a hard place there. I don't know if you're familiar with some G6's getting that crazy spider crack on the camera glass, but that freak occurrence happened on my device as well, so LG won't validate a return on the manufacturer's warranty due to that, and I really have no way of doing a factory reset since the phone won't charge anywhere past 5% while the phone is off before it turns on automatically at that point. $175 to get it replaced under T-Mobile insurance. Never thought a device so highly praised would be such a disappointment.

televate said:
Caught between a rock and a hard place there. I don't know if you're familiar with some G6's getting that crazy spider crack on the camera glass, but that freak occurrence happened on my device as well, so LG won't validate a return on the manufacturer's warranty due to that, and I really have no way of doing a factory reset since the phone won't charge anywhere past 5% while the phone is off before it turns on automatically at that point. $175 to get it replaced under T-Mobile insurance. Never thought a device so highly praised would be such a disappointment.
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So T-mobile wanting you to pay the $175 fee? Did you tell them you put it in the water?

There was no contact with any significant amount of water at all since I got the phone, but thanks for adding your skepticism.

So I am no longer getting the moisture error I am getting the "Power Supply Tap To Change USB options message" and a different battery icon error which I think is making me have high phone idle.
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I had this issue, and sent it in to LG. They told me there was a software glitch that once that alert was activated, the software wouldn't turn it off. You can prove this by restarting the phone, and plugging in the charger before it boots back up again. It will charge perfectly fine, but then if you unplug it and plug it back in, the error comes back. Send it in, they'll fix it.

Brandonsmerry said:
I had this issue, and sent it in to LG. They told me there was a software glitch that once that alert was activated, the software wouldn't turn it off. You can prove this by restarting the phone, and plugging in the charger before it boots back up again. It will charge perfectly fine, but then if you unplug it and plug it back in, the error comes back. Send it in, they'll fix it.
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For what it's worth, that wasn't the case for me. I tried every variation of plugging it in on/off/rebooting/tweaking every setting I could find or anyone suggested. The last time I had it happen, it took 3 days before it let me charge any way but wireless. Finally I went to the T-Mo store and they spent five minutes on it before ordering a new phone. That was a month ago. Knock on wood, I haven't yet seen the problem with the new phone.

ughhhhh.... tried everything. I absolutely hate having to reload everything on my phone!

Yup, last LG phone I'm buying. Software error or not I just came from a bootlooped LG G4 that I had to fight tooth and nail to get replaced and still wasn't free ($20.) I've never damaged a smartphone in the last 7 years of owning one. No cracked screens or water damage. Not only that, in an attempt to charge the phone while powered off it charges slowly AND forces my phone back on even though I select power off. Seriously people, stop buying LG.

Replace port charger this fix issue whith moisture charging blocked! i test this works fine