Database Develop

Car kit done

I got my car kit done a few weeks ago, but still haven't found the time to put together an article on it. Here are the photos I took, though, feel free to ask questions if you like.
This project is not trivial and took a lot of time. It could be easier if you're willing to settle for more simplicity, like only getting sound out. I wanted to have sound, serial, power, the works. It requires the ability to solder small connectors and skill with a Dremel (high speed rotary tool). Basically I took one of the charging adapters apart to get the connector, and duplicated the mounting plate for it inside the cradle using a CD-ROM case cover. Some of the fitment is pretty tight, so you have to have a steady hand with the Dremel. The mount you see on the rear of the cradle is a leftover from a Nokia kit I believe. It is a standard car cell mount which can be purchased in many forms from many sources. There are also flexible pole mounts and others available.
The end result is that I can drop the XDA into the cradle in the car and it is charged, the Pharos GPS is connected (via the PS/2 connector you see), and stereo output is provided via the three-conductor jack on the back of the cradle. I am using the built-in microphone, after some experimentation with other options. It appears the XDA needs a high level microphone input, a straight microphone does not work. This sounds fine to most callers, but it means that I can't put the device into "car" mode which means you also get sound from the speaker on the device.
Hmmm, unfortunately, I can't find the pic I shot of it actually mounted in the car, so I'll shoot that tomorrow and post it.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}

Respect, very well done!

Very well done indeed.
Just a tiny remark: Do note that the mounting screws for the attachment bracket will prevent you from using the extended battery that clips onto the back of the device... Glue might have been better.

Thanks for the compliments.
I agree that is a concern if using an extended battery. Flat head screws would work also. I will never use an extended battery, so I didn't bother. Glue would have been ineffective though because the mounting system isn't flat on the surface where it attaches to the cradle; it has lots of air space there, it is not solid.
Another possiblity is to attach the mount on the bottom of the cradle. I didn't do that because I'm putting it in a minivan with a high dash, and this arrangement proved to provide perfect positioning.
Here's are the photos of the kit in the car:

Someone on another forum asked for more details on this, so I thought I'd copy them here also. Mostly parts list and some construction details.
The parts list will make you laugh... In photos 1, 3, and 4 you see how I'm take a CD-ROM case cover to turn it into the mount for the connector. The edge, as you see in the photo, is perfect to "notch" into the little tabs on the bottom plate of the cradle. Notice that the stock PCB has holes to catch on little pins on those tabs; the rolled edge of the CD case is perfect to catch on this also. Same thickness. The connector from the AC adapter is thicker than the stock connector, so I had to cut out that piece and use another to hold the connector in place; alignment is perfect using that method. It was glued to the other piece with Duco.
In photo 2 you see the "ears" that I peeled back from the connector; these used to be the locking tabs. Later they will become the method to attach the connector to the plastic. In photos 5/6/7 you can see how I used large-head screws and nuts with washers to attach those tabs to the plastic. I made the tabs into a loop and measured their position, bent them as needed, then once the connector fit in the cradle just right, put on the screws. The connector is VERY solidy fixed this way, surprisingly.
Other parts... Standard stereo 3.5mm plug from an electronics supply house. The PS/2 style connector for the serial feed from the Pharos GPS was just cut off from an old keyboard that no longer works. (Thus justifying why I have had a dead keyboard in my closet for two years...) The power supply connection is the stock connector from the cradle originally. You also see a 2.5mm connector in one photo; that was going to be for the microphone, but I discovered it would require additional electronics. Therefore I didn't use it, and I leave the phone in regular (not car) mode, using the built-in microphone. It's not perfect but very good. People say I sound a bit distant but 100% intelligible.
The mount is something I had in my "cell phone stuff" parts box. After 15 years of using a wide variety of phones/mounts/kits, I have a lot of spares and extras. I'm 90% sure this came from a Nokia 82xx series car kit, or possibly a 61/51xx kit. In any case, mounts use a standardized bolt format like this, and you can buy MANY different types of mounts at cellular dealers. I have one on my desk (where I mounted by other cradle which I modified to allow use of the headset while cradled) which is a flexible any-position gooseneck type. The little metal plate affixing the mount is something I cut from flat aluminum; it's actually a prototype of the mount that I used to mount my last cell phone onto my motorcycle's clutch master cylinder (the PPC-PE mount for the bike is next). It's just to back up the plastic for strength, and since it was already cut for the size/bolt patter of a cell mount, it was easy. It prevents the use of an auxilliary battery on the PPC, so if that's a concern, you'd have to use an alternate method. Also, attaching the mount to the bottom of the unit is perfectly viable. In my case, I chose not to because this afforded a better position in my car.
So as far as the electrical connections... Very basic. You can see a pinout of the XDA connector here: http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/xda/connector/
The Pharos cable pinout is here, and was provided by someone else on PPC Thoughts: http://www.mywirelessoffice.com/pharos/pinout.html
Tools list:
Fine-point 25w soldering iron with a good, clean tip
Very thin solder, rosin core
Small cutters and needle nose
Dremel, cut-off wheel, and round shaping tool bit
Voltmeter helps if you have any issues/doubts
Screwdrivers and pliers

Carlos,
Before you know it you'll be an "XDA-Devoloper #carlos"
I guessing that somewhere on this sight there will be a more glorified copy of your report before long...
For the audio out, etc...
Is there a way of connecting this to the car stereo directly?
I remember a guy that had this with his nokia 7210 (matrix type). Again, nokia seem to do everything first (ish...).
When in his car and he received a phone call, it came all throught the speakers etc. funky!!!
MmF :roll:

Oh yeah, I had that with my Nokia 8200. Also had a "car" kit for it on my motorcycle, so I could talk on the phone in the helmet as well as the passenger and other bikes (if similarly equipped). It cuts off the radio automatically. I still have the rest of the system on the bike, but now have to build a holder and interface for the XDA. I have always has car kits that are system integrated, but the XDA is the first where I had to start from scratch.
Here's a photo of the bike setup for the Nokia:
Anyway, piping the sound through the car system can be done in many different ways. If you have a system with seperate amplifiers, you can buy a simple mixer to insert the sound before the amps. Or, many head units these days (like the CD-MP3 player on my bike) have front-panel 3.5mm inputs. I used to have an Eclipse CD changer/controller that automatically switched over to a back panel auxiliary connection when it detected input on that connection. Of course, there are the rudimentary cassette adapters and the RF injectors like the Radio Shack iRock which put the sound on an FM frequency.
There are a lot of solutions, just depends on your current setup and desired budget.

FINALLY!!!! Found: Cradle WITH Audio Jack!!!

I stream XM all day at work and I have to flip my phone upside down in the cradle so that I can use the Y-cable to play the stream through my speakers. I've always hated this because, 1. it defeats the purpose of the cradle and 2. the phone is upside down.
So I tried to get smart this weekend and adopt my OEM audio Y-cable to my cheap $10 ebay cradle I bought a while ago so that I could listen to audio while the phone was docked.
That was a big mistake.
I snapped the PCB board in half and now I've got no cradle and no Y-cable for audio. So after hours of searching, I FINALLY found a cradle that has the correct USB connector, thus allowing an audio out.
http://search.stores.ebay.com/Premi...sooZ1QQfsopZ3QQsaselZ840472QQsbrsrtZdQQsofpZ0
I just ordered it and so I haven't tested it, but the connector is the right shape, so I have confidence that it will work. I only wanted to get this link up there for those who have been searching for this.

I think maybe you got too technical. When I bought my touch it came with 2 types of Y-cable one for power/3.5mm? audio connections and the other for power/usb headphones that came with my touch. I would have just plugged that into the usb port in the back of the cradle and powered it by my computer.
But since you showed a link to ebay - here is another store called the Naked Cell Phone in ebay stores. My link goes right to the HTC Touch accessories he has. and his cradles can accommodate a second spare battery. Worth a look.
Naked Cellphone HTC Touch accessories
On the left side are other options to other phones and accessories.
Have a great day
Maine Notary Net

mainenotarynet said:
I think maybe you got too technical. When I bought my touch it came with 2 types of Y-cable one for power/3.5mm? audio connections and the other for power/usb headphones that came with my touch. I would have just plugged that into the usb port in the back of the cradle and powered it by my computer.
But since you showed a link to ebay - here is another store called the Naked Cell Phone in ebay stores. My link goes right to the HTC Touch accessories he has. and his cradles can accommodate a second spare battery. Worth a look.
Naked Cellphone HTC Touch accessories
On the left side are other options to other phones and accessories.
Have a great day
Maine Notary Net
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you're talking about this, right?
http://cgi.ebay.com/BATTERY-CHARGER...sidZp1742.m153.l1262?_trksid=p1742.m153.l1262
It doesn't allow you to play audio through external speakers and/or listen to the headphones while docked. While at work, I like for my phone to be upright so that I can see the screen.
I don't know what is so technical about wanting to have your phone in a docking station, where it is upright, and elevated from a surface and still have the ability to play audio through external speakers.

That looks like the one but it does not show the back -- didn't know if it had a miniUSB on the back.
Just trying to help

mainenotarynet said:
That looks like the one but it does not show the back -- didn't know if it had a miniUSB on the back.
Just trying to help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
it's not the back connection that is the problem. it's the cradle connection. the part where the phone connects to the cradle has to be the d-sub pin layout. htc has pins on both sides, whereas miniUSB only has one side. the pins on the opposite side are for audio. regardless of how the back is wired, without the proper connection, you won't get audio out while docked.
I tried to rig something but ended up futzing everything up.

640k - did this docking station work for your intended purpose?
I'd like to pick up a dock, and was wondering about your experience.
Thank you.

harley! said:
640k - did this docking station work for your intended purpose?
I'd like to pick up a dock, and was wondering about your experience.
Thank you.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
works perfectly well. definitely allows me to play all audio with teh phone upright. it includes ports for power and usb too, so it seems like you get the full function of the mini usb port with it.
my only gripe is the dock itself. it's a little clumsy to get the phone in and out and i find myself hitting the camera button when i remove the phone.
the dock also prevents use of the d-pad. which seems minor with a touch screen, but some apps respond better from the d-pad (or sometimes it's just easier). you can go up, left and right, but you cannot press down, even though it is visible.
the dock is also 2-3x the size of the phone which may be a turnoff for some people but the build seems to be quality.
however, it's definitely worth the $15. it comes with a charger and a usb cable. the audio out is a standard 3.5mm jack, so even if you don't want to play music through your computer speakers, you could always hook up headphones.

Got one!
I quite like this dock. I run "My Mobiler" on my desktop, so I can access the phone using my monitor/mouse/keyboard.
Now I can use the phone as my media player, transfer files, install apps, and (in theory) answer my phone calls hands-free using the on-board mic and my speakers. Haven't tried the last yet...

Thanks for the tip on this one, just ordered one for my car dock. Gotta love last.fm and podcasts for the commute streaming from Android on my touch!

just an fyi, the usb connection on this dock doesn't seem to be working for me anymore. i need to crack it open to see if i can find what's wrong. but i get intermediate connections and the phone goes in and out of being connected. not sure what the problem is, but i haven't used teh dock in a few weeks.

Cool i might get this. Been looking for a dock for a LONGGGGG time

Yikes, $18.00 shipping to Canada.

Cradle...
I got a deal where the usb/pc cradle, car cradle, 2 car power adapters, 2 wall chargers, 2 usb sync cables, and a soft case, and 3 pen/styluses all shipped for like $29, from Premiertek.net thru their ebay store, it also came with a belt holster that is kinda wonky but I really only wanted the 2 cradles anyway and I use my BlackBerry Perl's holster, cuz with my case it fits perfect. so I'm stoked, it allows for speakers on the usb pc cradle, and hands free built in on the car cradle... sweet. now I need to find a better mini audio plug to 3/8 sound adapter to use with the car cradle, mine only picks up the left channel.... but I have already confirmed it is my mini/3/8 adapter and not the cradles..

Anyone tried this on a vogue with android flashed?, want to know if audio out is all good.

640k said:
just an fyi, the usb connection on this dock doesn't seem to be working for me anymore. i need to crack it open to see if i can find what's wrong. but i get intermediate connections and the phone goes in and out of being connected. not sure what the problem is, but i haven't used teh dock in a few weeks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I feel bad for anyone still using a Vogue. That phone was a nightmare compared to my D1. This cradle is/was junk. I don't know/remember what the failure was, but I'm glad to have moved on. Hopefully you guys can upgrade soon. Get an Android phone, any of them. you'll be pleasantly surprised.

640k said:
I feel bad for anyone still using a Vogue. That phone was a nightmare compared to my D1. This cradle is/was junk. I don't know/remember what the failure was, but I'm glad to have moved on. Hopefully you guys can upgrade soon. Get an Android phone, any of them. you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
We have one

*M* said:
We have one
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
lol - it's true!

Dell Multimedia Dock - Hacked Car Mount

I originally intended to post my testing in DJ_Steve's honeystreak thread but as a lurker I have not yet earned the privilege. Instead I will document my hack job working toward the 10 post minimum.
Last weekend I mounted the multimedia dock in my Subaru Legacy GT. The 2005 model doesn't have nav but had a spot for it used as a storage cubby.
I used two 6" threaded rods, four nuts and washers, and two wingnuts for the front. I drilled small reliefs/recesses in the front of the dock for the "wings" to anchor in, and tightened the nuts/washers behind the mount. This put the dock on solid rails. I then drilled two .25" holes near the top of the small cubby along the back wall and put the rods through the holes deep enough to make the top of the streak nearly flush with the cubby.
I then vampire tapped the back of the cigarette lighter in the dash adding a lighter socket behind it, and installed a two usb port adaptor. Ran the multimedia dock power cable up the back and into the cubby, as well as an audio line in to the back of the stereo. For a little added security, I put two 3M loop portion circles on the back of the streak on either side of the Dell logo (this is where the back of the device hits the cubby door bottom edge). I put the hook portion (aka "the fuzzy side") along the bottom edge of the cubby door to both anchor the streak and soften the blow when the door closes on the connector.
Pics to follow.
Technical info:
Volume is good, but not as high as the carpc's USB soundcard on the old system I removed in this process.
The dock app doesn't seem to work in Steve's 3.1 mod, because I suspect it's not present. I do get the prompt to disable the speakers when docking in 3.1.
Flashed back to stock, rooted and removed TMobile nonsense (I have the wifi version) and the dock is working great.
Anyone know if there is a simple .APK backup I can perform and install in 3.1 to get this back?
Other devices:
Entourage PocketEdge 7" 2.2 Ermine
Epic 4G Syndicate Frozen Rom 1.1.1

You posted in the correct spot; no sense derailing the HoneyStreak thread.
This sounds like an awesome mod. Can't wait to see those pics!

I just wonder if Steve may not be aware that this feature doesn't function. I wouldn't spam the thread with the install information.
I am willing to donate a dock if it would help (or more accurately, funds to aqcuire one locally).
Either way I will snap some pics tomorrow and hopefully inspire someone else to make their homebrew mount out of the OEM dock.

Nook install in a Jeep Wrangler

Hey all! It's been a while since someone posted any vehicle install pics in this forum, so I thought I'd catch you all up on a little project of mine. I started it earlier this year, but now have it almost completed. Some of this was previously posted on another forum, so I apologize in advance if something doesn't make sense or seems out of context. I'll fill in any gaps, and answer any questions you may have.
I started with a car dock for my phone attached to a Bracketron mount. I'll be able to tether the phone's internet access with the Android tablet I'll be using as a head unit.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
I'm going to be using a rooted Nook Color, and in order to fit it in place, I needed to move the HVAC controls. After pulling the center bezel off and looking around, it appeared that the controls could be moved down after a little cutting and duct modification. Here is the end result after fabbing a pair of new brackets. I've still got to make a new surround to fill the gap.
In addition to the Nook, I'm adding a Hifonics HFEQ. This will allow me fine control over the signal being sent to the amps. I can switch between inputs and use it as the main volume control.
The approximate position of the Nook...
I'm using a tablet mount from RAM, and I've got to figure out a good way to mount it. That's coming up soon!
Now one last thing. I have a bluetooth OBDII reader installed for the Nook. I reversed the plug and bent it up slightly to keep it out of the way. I'll be able to use an Android app called Torque to read all relevent Jeep data.

Update time! I needed to get the Nook mount in place, and modify the center bezel. I had a lot of options when it came to mounting, but I wanted to keep it simple, and by default reliable. If it won't take abuse, it's not worth putting in a Jeep. So, I decided to utilize my existing Quadratec iVault. It has served me well for the past year or so, and now it was getting a few more holes... The idea was to eventually make a storage compartment behind the face, and use the face itself to hold the RAM mount. Now, I do realize that nothing is ever truly safe in a Jeep, but there are times I need to stash something quickly while running in to a store. The Nook itself would likely get put in there.
So, let's start with the mods. Due to the mounting points in the RAM, I needed to move the existing iVault lock to the left. I drilled a hole, and shaped it with my Dremel. This was the result.
Now I needed to make a few holes for the RAM mount.
Now finally the mount and iVault face are bolted together.
It was time for a test fit. As you can see, it attaches nicely. Now one could argue about the aesthetics of it's spacing away from the the bezel as it is, but it works well for me. It's within easy reach, and most importantly, nothing is blocked. That was a priority here. I've seen installs where the vents are unusable, or the HVAC controls are inaccessible. That may technically work, but I couldn't live with it. There was no way I wanted to sacrifice any function just to do something cool. That's also the reason the Nook isn't more tightly integrated into the bezel. It needs to be easily removable, and make for easy maintenance should it be needed.
Now, let's take a look at the Hifonics EQ. It's very easy to use in this location, but I'm not sure the pic is doing it justice. I have to do something about the gap above it though. I can't just shove a fill plate in there and call it good. I've got to fix it the right way. You can see the hole I added for access to the iVault lock.
So, it was time to do a little cutting. I've got everything marked out and ready for the Dremel.
After the cuts...
Let's clamp that piece in place...
I cut a piece of plexi to fit behind the hole, and epoxied it in place. Once the epoxy cures, it will get smoothed out with a fiberglass reinforced Bondo.
After a few light layers of Bondo and subsequent sanding, I gave it a quick shot of primer. Here you can see the fresh primer still in the process of drying. A few more coats and it will be like glass. I dare you to say it doesn't look completely OEM.
The last thing I did was reassemble everything to triple check fitment. It all looks good, so it's on to mounting the EQ solidly, and getting a fill plate made for the HVAC. Then it's painting and final assembly!

Well, after not doing much for a week, I tried to be productive last night. I swapped cases on my Nook Color to something more appropriate for the Jeep. I still need to get some hardwiring done, and also build custom touch contacts for docking. I'm just waiting on some parts from Mouser.com.

When I last left off, I was waiting for a few parts to arrive. Once they did, I set out to make the Nook easily docked in the Jeep. A lot of the more expensive tablets, such as the Samsung Galaxy Tab, make docking a breeze. Of course you have to spend nearly twice as much on the tablet to do so. That would defeat the purpose of doing this mod in the first place. Affordable and durable are 2 very important criteria here, and I've got to stick to the concept.
So, let's address the power issues first. The Nook needs to be able to be charged once it's in the cradle, and there's no way I was willing to plug/unplug in a power cord every time I wanted to take it in or out. The tablet is supposed to simplify things while bringing more features. If I can't accomplish that, then I was better off leaving a regular head unit in place. I wanted to just grab it and go.
Getting power to the Nook started with one of these. It's a micro USB plug with a board and solder points. You can see a test fit with the Nook in the cradle.
Next I had to mark out a small area that needed notching. This would allow the USB plug to seat fully in the Nook.
After the notching...
Okay, so now it was time to figure out a way to mount the plug to the cradle. I needed something simple, strong, and clean. I decided to bend some plexi and cut it to size.
Now that I had a mounting system in place, it was time to wire the plug. The method you see below allows for a USB extension cable to be added easily to the cradle.
In the next update I'll finish the power dock, and move on to a revised dash mount (I'm never satisfied!)

I've got a sneak peek at the almost finished install here. The biggest addition is stainless steel bar that now sits in front of the EQ. This bar will help protect it from bouncing and stray objects or people. The bar also serves a secondary purpose. It does a pretty good job of hiding the EQ from anyone peering in the windows when the top is on. Although I didn't get pics of the process, the bar is fastened to aluminum plates that are epoxied behind the bezel. It's pretty strong, and certainly isn't going anywhere.
It may be subtle, but you might also notice the tablet and mount are now sitting closer to the dash than in previous pics. I redesigned the mount and made it more secure while giving it a cleaner look.
With most of the work done, I'm now going to focus on a few smaller details. I'll cover that and finish this update in an upcoming post.

Touch contacts... I've mentioned them several times in the past, and now I've finally got a few pics to show you what I'm talking about. First though, my reasoning for implementing them. For it's price, the Nook Color is a brilliant piece of hardware. It's solidly built, and has a better screen than most tablets over twice it's price. The cheaper cost makes for a few missing features compared to other tablets, but when you consider this is marketed as an e-reader, it's pretty understandable. I've mentioned how I couldn't justify spending more on an Android tablet that would see some potential abuse. So, I had to get creative to overcome what the Nook was missing, particularly a docking port of some kind. If you've got to plug and unplug cables into the tablet each time you get in and out, it becomes a huge pain. You've already seen me fab a micro-usb connecter into a tablet dock. Now it was time to move on to the audio.
I've used these touch contacts from Mouser.com on other computer modding projects, and knew they would be perfect for what I'm trying to do here.
One of the most important aspects of this mod, was that I wouldn't have to change anything on the Nook itself. I wanted to leave it structurally intact. Should anything happen to the Nook, and I need to get it replaced, I won't have to redo any of my work. It also means I could sell it if I want, and not affect it's value in anyway. The Trident case I chose for the Nook is a critical part of this mod, and was bought specifically with this in mind.
Here I've found a flat, open area, and marked it for cutting.
A little time with the Dremel and a file left me with a perfect fit...
Up next, was a custom cable made from an angled 3.5mm plug and length of USB wire. (I only needed 3 conductor wire, but chose to use this due to it's increased thickness.)
Although I didn't take a picture of it, to fit the cable in the case, I drilled a small hole in one end, and used the Dremel to create a very shallow channel behind the case to route the wires to the touch contact. I soldered the wires to the contact, and put the case on the Nook.
As you can see above, the fit is excellent, and the function is even better. The case is removable without harming the Nook, and I've not compromised functionality in anyway. When the tablet is out of the Jeep, the contacts are unobtrusive, and should I need to use headphones, I can simply unplug without affecting anything.
Up next, the dock will get some contacts of it's own...

As promised, the dock now has contacts. It couldn't have been simpler. I cut a rectangle to fit the touch contacts, epoxied it in place from the back, and soldered on a 3.5mm plug. The dock was reinstalled in the dash, and I was done!
So, what now? We'll I plan on taking some video of how easy it is to dock, and some of the tablet's basic features. That should give you some idea of how well things really work together, and why I really love this setup.

Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!

spamolamo said:
Looks like a solid install. Awesome work!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks! It is very solid, and a great solution overall for a vehicle like the Wrangler. Any other vehicle and I would have integrated it into the dash itself. It didn't make sense to do that here, but I wanted to make sure it was more custom than 'just throwing a dock on the dash.'

holy cow.....very nice!

Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.

Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.

misterbbq said:
holy cow.....very nice!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you! I always try to keep my work clean. The irony is that the Jeep itself its rarely clean.
grindill said:
Very well done. I especially like the contacts for the audio. nice touch.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. I wanted it to be easy to use. In or out, and just go. Who wants to spend time messing with cables?
dna59 said:
Nice to see you over this side as well. Love the work. I'm thinking about doing it more and more I see it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haha, yeah, posting this here was long overdue. Just do it... you know you wanna!

Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App

Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.

cchant said:
Wow I love it. Nice work
Sent from my GT-I9100 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks man!
w0mbl3 said:
Nice looking install! Interesting too as I've been considering something similar in one of my cars.
is the USB going to be for charging only, or are you planning on adding a USB GPS unit? (assuming nook will do host USB)
If the USB is going to be for charging only you can improve the charging rate by shorting the two data pins (the inner ones) - the millom will then show"AC" when it shows "charging" on the status panel, and will draw more than 500mA which is what it limits itself to from a normal USB port. Its not as fast as the stock wall charger but still an improvement.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Nook is set up to use host mode. I've got the cable and adapters, but haven't installed them yet. I planned ahead so it's a simple plug and play from cables I can reach through my glove box. I am experimenting with a SSD based hot swap usb device. It 'usually' works, but I'm going to do some more testing before I go ahead with it. I've got around 40gb of music I'd like accessible at all times if I'm going to do it right.
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness. I do have a shut off switch if I don't drive the Jeep for extended periods, but otherwise it's always on. The power draw is so minimal that I'm not in the least concerned about battery drainage. If it did happen, then I'd want to replace the battery anyway, as it has no business in my Jeep.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.

craigbru said:
I know that it's a little slow to charge this way, but it's never been an issue. The power to the Nook is a 12v constant tapped into the OEM stereo harness.
I don't use a USB based GPS device, I use a bluetooth one instead. It's mounted above the driver side visor, and powered via a USB cable ran through the windshield frame. It only charges while driving though. It's attached with velcro should I need to easily remove it. Here is a pic.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !

w0mbl3 said:
12v? Does that work ok? I experimentally modified a USB charger as test of the AC-charging thing, but hard wiring to switched 12v would be easier.
After my post I searched here on XDA and came across the BT adapters - much easier than USB, plus I can wire in a decent GPS antenna inside the dash. What model is your GPS unit and does the BT have the range to pair reliably? I've seen a few posts saying it only works a few inches
Thanks for the info and posting the install !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I should clarify. I'm using one of these wired to constant 12v. The Nook is receiving a standard 5 volts from a USB cable.
I'm using this adapter, and it's been flawless. It picks up the GPS signal quickly, and pairing takes only a second. It's kept it's pairing at a distance of about 5 feet during testing, but as it sits in the Jeep, it's only about 2 feet away. I've never had it lose connection.

What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.

222psm said:
What nav software do you use? I'm wondering if the bluetooth GPS works with Co-Piolt or Navigon? I do not want to use google because i'm on a 200mb data plan.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm currently using Google, but I'm caching the maps. I've not tried it with other software yet, but I'd certainly like to. It's on my list of things yet to do.

Bionic Lapdock not Working - Need Help

Hello,
I have a Bionic Lapdock that doesn't want to work with my Bionic and I was hoping that somebody might be able to point me in the right direction.
When I connect my phone to the Lapdock it will turn off the phone's screen, turn on the Lapdock screen, and show an animated red circle with the Motorola logo in it to show that it's loading (this occurs only once when the phone is first inserted or if the service is terminated and needs to reload). The background will load on the Lapdock screen, show all of the icons on the bottom, the phone status, etc, but the Lapdock screen will turn off in about 5 seconds and the keyboard and trackpad on the Lapdock do not seem to do anything. Typically the only screen I see on the Lapdock is the screensaver (the red circle with the Motorola logo inside of it that moves around the screen bit by bit) or the screen is off entirely. I have noticed that occasionally a trackpad will appear on my phone's screen and it will allow me to move the mouse cursor on the Lapdock screen for a few seconds before the Lapdock screen turns off again.
At one point I did have my phone rooted, but the 902 update broke it a while ago, and now I don't care to root it again because we can't use rooted phones and do various work-related functions with them (Citrix, Touchdown, etc).
But anyway, I first tried to do a full reinstall of 902 using RSD 5.6 (using the 682 MB file newvrz_xt875_5.9.902.xt875.verizon.en.us_cfc_01.xml.zip). The reinstall worked, but the same problem occurred with the Lapdock. I also cleared cache and did another factory reset to no avail. So then I downgraded to 893 using the full reinstall (file vrz_xt875_5.5.893.xt875.verizon.en.us_cfc_01.xml.zip which is around 671 MB), and the problem persisted. I then did an OTA update from 893 to 902, and the problem still occurs. I have also tried using an external mouse and keyboard, and those don't seem to have any impact either (the mouse lights up for a second when initialized, but then turns off).
I'm using the "MOTBIOLAPDK" if that makes any difference.
I'm not sure what else I can try, other than bring my phone and/or dock in to a Verizon store to see if it works with one of their phones (I bought the lapdock from that $80 sale that 1saleaday was having on eBay the other day).
Any help with this issue would be very much appreciated! Thanks for reading.

same issue
Hope we can get an answer to this. I have the same problem. I used Pathsaver to get to 902. I also bought my lapdock off 1SaleADay.

OH GOD I AM ABOUT TO CHOKE A *****
The extended battery doesn't easily allow for a complete connection with the USB port. I just had to take the extended battery off and put the stock battery on, and now *everything* works just fine. Everywhere I read it said that the Verizon extended battery was "fully compatible" with this dock. Oh well, hopefully this post will help out somebody in the same boat.
Also, you aren't connected to the USB port on the dock until a "Select Application to Launch" pop-up message appears on your phone (when the dock is closed, anyway). I had to press down harder on the phone to insert it properly than I thought would be necessary.

This is exactly what is happening with mine (purchased from the same website), I am starting to think these were on sale for a reason.
I thought it was an issue with a custom ROM (Eclipse 2.2) so I spent my whole evening messing with it before finally using Dhacker's utility to get back to 902 stock. Wasn't thrilled to have to go back to stock but I thought alright, finally I can use my new lapdock for the rest of the night. Nope. Same thing. Exactly as you described, it shows the Moto start up animation for a second, then the screen will load but the keyboard and trackpad won't work, then it goes to the Moto logo screen saver, and the phone screen in the dock turns back on and the phone just goes back to normal. I have no extended battery or case on the phone so I fear my issue is not that my phone just isn't in the dock all the way.
Ideas anyone? Or did I get a garbage lapdock?

UPDATE:
It looks like the extended battery on my phone masked some other problem. I had it working perfectly for about 45 minutes, but now I can't get it to work again and I'm right back to where I started.
It seems to be a connection issue, because if I push on it a certain way it will *sometimes* pop-up the webtop/"Select application to launch" dialog (it was doing this flawlessly with no extra effort not too long ago, so I don't know WTH is going on).
I used some compressed air on all of the ports, and that didn't help matters at all.
I'm hoping it's something simple that we can fix because I hate returning things.
Did anybody notice if their lapdock was new or used/refurbished? I couldn't really tell with mine, but I did notice that the Lapdock box was a bit banged up and there wasn't anything that indicated that it was actually factory sealed (it appeared like the box had been opened, and the user manual wasn't in the right spot either).

same problem here
I have the exactly same problem. I bought the lapdock from 1saleaday. Does any one think I can send it to Motorola?

I believe I've confirmed mine as actually defective as well. Once in 15 tries of connecting the phone and pushing down really hard will the phone screen show the "select application to launch" menu. I also noticed on the lapdock, on the dock part that flips open to accept the phone, right underneath the two connectors gets very hot to the touch when I have the phone connected, like there's a short or something going on. Practically burned my thumb.
Mine appeared the be brand new, the tabs on the lapdock box had the adhesive stickers over them, everything in the box was sealed (actually now that I think about it the plastic bag over the actual lapdock unit was not sealed).
The booklet mentions a warranty through Motorola. Should we bother trying to work with 1saleaday or just contact Moto?
This sucks!

Mine didn't get hot to the touch that I can remember when it was briefly working. I didn't have it in my lap though, so I might not have noticed. Right now it's a little warm, but not hot at all.
Mine had a clear plastic adhesive on the tabs, but it looked like regular packing tape on mine.
I would probably try 1saleaday first because they will be more likely to cover shipping expenses (at least I hope they do!). However, I just read their "return policy" which states:
"What is your return policy?
1SaleADay.com does not accept returns. For defective merchandise, notify us by filling out the form on our Contact page within 21 days of delivery for an exchange. Please include your order number, the name of the product, the date of purchase, and the issue you are having with the item. If the defective item is out of stock, it can be returned for a full refund. 

"
I'm guessing there's a good chance that they won't have many in stock, so they'll just refund you.
If I can't make heads or tails of this issue in an hour or so, I'll go to a Verizon store tomorrow to see if the Lapdock works with one of their Bionics, and also see if my Bionic works with their Lapdock (provided they have one on display).

Heh I was just reading about how terrible the customer service is for that website and that it might take a few weeks to get a refund.
I was thinking about the Verizon Store idea too but don't know if I'll be able to make it tomorrow. Let us know if you end up going or find anything out.
There's actually a couple of Motorola stores in my area, but I'm not sure they'd be able to help at all either. Maybe I will make a few phone calls tomorrow.

Another thing that's kind of odd is that you can pair a Bluetooth mouse to the phone and when the Lapdock screen kicks on for that 5 second period you can move the mouse cursor around using the Bluetooth mouse and interact with the Lapdock screen, but no matter what you do it'll still turn off in 5 seconds. Also, I was able to get a regular USB mouse and keyboard working, but ONLY when the Lapdock was working properly for that brief period of time.

Possible solution
I found a possible solution. I realized that the USB port was a little lower than HDMI port. I dissembled the docking part, pushed the USB port to the same level as the HDMI. IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!!

Yeah, I'm fairly certain we're on the right track that the issue lies at the part where the phone plugs in. That's why it'll turn off after a few seconds, poor connection.
I've been staring at the lapdock wanting to disassemble it myself because I'm impatient but I'm trying not to mess with it since there's a warranty. I just filled out the contact form for 1saleaday but I'm gonna try calling the Motorola stores in the morning just to see if any of them offer repair services or exchanges instead of having to go through a long process of warranty repair through the mail or waiting for a refund from 1sale.
---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:48 AM ----------
herolee31 said:
I found a possible solution. I realized that the USB port was a little lower than HDMI port. I dissembled the docking part, pushed the USB port to the same level as the HDMI. IT WORKS PERFECTLY!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've been looking at the dock portion of the device trying to figure out how it comes apart without messing it up. Any tips?

Here are some disassembly instructions:
http://www.techrepublic.com/photos/...13&tag=thumbnail-view-selector;get-photo-roto
I will try that with mine as well; the HDMI and USB don't line up the same.

Somewhere in XDA forum, you can find an Atrix lapdock HDMI mod stuff. I can't recall which tread it was, but it shows detailed instructions for modding.

Cool. I might give it a shot I just don't want to leave any visible marks trying to pry out the little covers etc and then not qualify for a warranty if they can see I f'd with it.
---------- Post added at 01:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:20 AM ----------
Sweeeeet I got mine working by taking the dock apart too. Typing on the lapdock right now. Well I just have the connectors hanging out the back loosely and the plastic is still disassembled so I'll have to see if I can keep it working after it's back together, but damn at least I can use it finally. TIme to go out for a cigarette after fighting with this thing all freakin evening!!!

I was able to get mine working as well!
It looks like the problem could come back again though, because the metal plate that the USB connector should press up against appears to be at least 1 mm off. I just folded up a small piece of electrical tape and put it in between the USB connector and the metal plate, and another larger piece between the metal plate and the wall, so that it can't get pushed back down again.
Only 7.5 hours later and it's working. Yay
Also, I didn't realize how much of a fingerprint magnet these things are!

Yeah the fingerprints are really bad on this thing haha.
I was able to fully reassemble mine and still keep it in working order (for now). Part of the issue for me seemed to be the metallic tape they wrapped around the end of the connectors. The tape on mine actually came up onto the metal part of the connector that comes through the plastic and meets with the phone (marked with the red line in this picture I took), so this metallic tape was kinda getting in the way and preventing the connector from coming through as far as it should. I peeled it back, put everything back in place, and held the USB connector as far forward as I could while I tightened down the metal bridge that goes over it. So far so good.
Also you can kinda see it in the picture but it does actually appear like the wire from the USB connector is getting hot, a small bit of plastic where the wire was resting was even starting to turn brown from the heat. For now I just wrapped it with a few extra layers of tape but looks like I might have a soldering job to do in the future if this wire craps out completely.
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
Now to see if I can get back on Eclipse 2.2 and still keep everything working.
Thanks for brainstorming together everyone, I was really disappointed that this thing wasn't working.

blackmetalbuick said:
...Now to see if I can get back on Eclipse 2.2 and still keep everything working...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a Lapdock 500 and cannot get Webtop to work on Eclipse 2.2, so I don't think it's a lapdock issue.

Trying to get webtop2sd working
Thanks for all contributing to this thread! I also picked up a 1saleaday Bionic lapdock. I just got it yesterday and I am on stock .902 rooted with motofail. Everything seems to work fine but I was *hoping* to get webtop2sd working.
Although it installed just fine I am not seeing any difference running the webtop, i.e. no additional memory etc. If anyone else is familiar with it I'd like to try to get it working. My main goal is just to be able to get a larger remote desktop so I can rdp into work when at conferences (when having the lapdock is an advantage over a full blown laptop).

blackmetalbuick - Oddly enough mine hasn't gotten hot yet. I've left the Lapdock screensaver on for 30 minutes and the only part that gets remotely warm on mine is just under the USB port near where the external power cord plugs in (the closest USB port to the power adapter).