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Ok, I've been trying to get to the bottom of this problem for a long time.
I've got unilimited HSDPA GPRS on my Tilt, so I tether to my laptop. Kaiser is connected through a 1Amp powered USB hub to a laptop. Tilt was just lying on the desk, and I noticed several interesting things:
1. If Kaiser is at 100% charge - the green light (power) will stay on for a long time, about 40-60 minutes.
2. If Kaiser is NOT at 100% charge, it will charge (orange light) but won't reach 100%. It will stop charging in about 20-30 minutes.
3. If I put Kaiser on a cup, so that there's nothing under it and air moves freely all the way around the Kaiser - I get around 40-60 minutes of charging even when battery is less than 100%. If it is 100%, I can get up to 1.5 hours or so.
4. Whenether it stops charging - I notice that the back of Kaiser gets pretty high.
5. Every 40-60 minutes the charging light comes on again and charges for about 10-20 minutes (gives couple % to battery), then comes off again.
6. BatteryStatus app shows:
6.1 When charge light is ON: + some MAh, don't remember exact number, but it's like 10 or 20.. very low charge
6.2 When charge light is OFF: full battery drain, -400 or somewhere around there (can't remember). It seems that power flow through USB port just stops, disconnects.
7. I see same results when using car charger and stock AC power adapter.
8. Traffic definitelly affects it. If I just have HSDPA on and not using it - it charges fine, it seems. When I start using up the traffic (download files, watch TV, etc) it starts to heat up and stops charging after some time.
It seems to me that the problem with Kaiser stopping to charge when using HSDPA is caused by heat. There must be something on the hardware that turns off charging if the processor/MB/hardware is overheating. I guess charging the battery generates more heat than using the battery, or why else would it turn off charging when overheating?
Just thought that this, perhaps, would be interesting to some developers or people who have the same problem. Maybe someone can put Kaiser in front of a good fan and see what kind of result does that give - maybe it will keep charging.
Assuming that this is true, I don't suppose a fix is possible. Except for, perhaps, switching to slower connection (not applicable in my case) or putting kaiser on a bag of ice.
DarkDvr said:
Ok, I've been trying to get to the bottom of this problem for a long time.
I've got unilimited HSDPA GPRS on my Tilt, so I tether to my laptop. Kaiser is connected through a 1Amp powered USB hub to a laptop. Tilt was just lying on the desk, and I noticed several interesting things:
1. If Kaiser is at 100% charge - the green light (power) will stay on for a long time, about 40-60 minutes.
2. If Kaiser is NOT at 100% charge, it will charge (orange light) but won't reach 100%. It will stop charging in about 20-30 minutes.
3. If I put Kaiser on a cup, so that there's nothing under it and air moves freely all the way around the Kaiser - I get around 40-60 minutes of charging even when battery is less than 100%. If it is 100%, I can get up to 1.5 hours or so.
4. Whenether it stops charging - I notice that the back of Kaiser gets pretty high.
It seems to me that the problem with Kaiser stopping to charge when using HSDPA is caused by heat. There must be something on the hardware that turns off charging if the processor/MB/hardware is overheating. I guess charging the battery generates more heat than using the battery, or why else would it turn off charging when overheating?
Just thought that this, perhaps, would be interesting to some developers or people who have the same problem. Maybe someone can put Kaiser in front of a good fan and see what kind of result does that give - maybe it will keep charging.
Assuming that this is true, I don't suppose a fix is possible. Except for, perhaps, switching to slower connection (not applicable in my case) or putting kaiser on a bag of ice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What does the Batterystatus app read in all above situations?
Since I exchanged my Kaiser, I don't feel the unit getting hot anymore. The previous unit used to get v.hot using wi-fi and 3G/HSDPA - Possible fault?
smads said:
What does the Batterystatus app read in all above situations?
Since I exchanged my Kaiser, I don't feel the unit getting hot anymore. The previous unit used to get v.hot using wi-fi and 3G/HSDPA - Possible fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Scary... I experienced this for the first time last night. Was streaming some vid from my tversity server whilst on the mains charger. All of a sudden my Kaiser got extremely hot. I immediately stopped streaming and let it cool.
I don't think it stopped charging though but I guess it makes sense that it would be protected against overheating.
The only thing I can suggest is try charging with .5 amp... not actually sure that it would charge too well at that though, especially if you're giving it a good workout at the same time.
DarkDvr said:
Ok, I've been trying to get to the bottom of this problem for a long time.
I've got unilimited HSDPA GPRS on my Tilt, so I tether to my laptop. Kaiser is connected through a 1Amp powered USB hub to a laptop. Tilt was just lying on the desk, and I noticed several interesting things:
1. If Kaiser is at 100% charge - the green light (power) will stay on for a long time, about 40-60 minutes.
2. If Kaiser is NOT at 100% charge, it will charge (orange light) but won't reach 100%. It will stop charging in about 20-30 minutes.
3. If I put Kaiser on a cup, so that there's nothing under it and air moves freely all the way around the Kaiser - I get around 40-60 minutes of charging even when battery is less than 100%. If it is 100%, I can get up to 1.5 hours or so.
4. Whenether it stops charging - I notice that the back of Kaiser gets pretty high.
It seems to me that the problem with Kaiser stopping to charge when using HSDPA is caused by heat. There must be something on the hardware that turns off charging if the processor/MB/hardware is overheating. I guess charging the battery generates more heat than using the battery, or why else would it turn off charging when overheating?
Just thought that this, perhaps, would be interesting to some developers or people who have the same problem. Maybe someone can put Kaiser in front of a good fan and see what kind of result does that give - maybe it will keep charging.
Assuming that this is true, I don't suppose a fix is possible. Except for, perhaps, switching to slower connection (not applicable in my case) or putting kaiser on a bag of ice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try without that 1Amp powered USB hub to a laptop....
1Amp is max i gues... so maby it's giving less, so it take a long time to get from 80% to 100% and yep lot off heat....
smads said:
What does the Batterystatus app read in all above situations?
Since I exchanged my Kaiser, I don't feel the unit getting hot anymore. The previous unit used to get v.hot using wi-fi and 3G/HSDPA - Possible fault?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't use it anymore, but before, if I remember correctly, it showed around small charge (+) when light is on.. then, when phone stops charging it used to drop to full battery drain, around -400 MAh or something like that.
So you got a new Kaiser and it doesn't heat up when using HSDPA? Really?! Have you tried using HSDPA for a long time (actually using the traffic like tethering, MobiTV, etc..)
SatScan said:
Try without that 1Amp powered USB hub to a laptop....
1Amp is max i gues... so maby it's giving less, so it take a long time to get from 80% to 100% and yep lot off heat....
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I see exact same problems when connected to a AC power supply that it came with. Same problem when using car charger.. and same problem when powering by USB without the AC adapter.
Here's my theory... Lithium ion batteries have on-board microprocessors to protect the battery and device from damage. If the battery gets hot the processor will shut down the charging to prevent damage. No matter what tweaks you do to the device or modifications to the charger this on board processor will override and shut down charging if it deemed it was necessary.
-Jay
DarkDvr said:
I don't use it anymore, but before, if I remember correctly, it showed around small charge (+) when light is on.. then, when phone stops charging it used to drop to full battery drain, around -400 MAh or something like that.
So you got a new Kaiser and it doesn't heat up when using HSDPA? Really?! Have you tried using HSDPA for a long time (actually using the traffic like tethering, MobiTV, etc..)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, I said the replacement didn't get hot - read uncomfortably hot - It does get warm, but only in the same way it does when taking a long phone call. My first kaiser used to get extremely hot when charging which indicated a short somewhere. All is well now though.
I hope you can get this sorted though - are you able to get a replacement?
smads said:
No, I said the replacement didn't get hot - read uncomfortably hot - It does get warm, but only in the same way it does when taking a long phone call. My first kaiser used to get extremely hot when charging which indicated a short somewhere. All is well now though.
I hope you can get this sorted though - are you able to get a replacement?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ahh, I see.
Yeah I think I'd be able to... but mine doesn't get "extremely hot".. it's just.. warm to very warm. It seems normal for me, don't think it's heating anymore than it should.
Have anyone had this problem with 3G (not hsdpa)? Cuz if it happens in 3G as well - that means another reason to be pissed at HTC - they've design kaiser in such a way that you cannot charge and use HSDPA at the same time.
This problem can be easily recreated and a result from other user would tell if it some device or not.
HSPDA with streaming music while charging = warm
HSPDA with streaming video while charging device = Extremely hot
At this point the USB charging will shut off for whatever reason. I just wondering why the phone is putting out that much heat and can it cause problems since I am starting to stream video via HSPDA while charging a lot.
DarkDvr said:
Ahh, I see.
Yeah I think I'd be able to... but mine doesn't get "extremely hot".. it's just.. warm to very warm. It seems normal for me, don't think it's heating anymore than it should.
Have anyone had this problem with 3G (not hsdpa)? Cuz if it happens in 3G as well - that means another reason to be pissed at HTC - they've design kaiser in such a way that you cannot charge and use HSDPA at the same time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Maybe we finally figured out why they included the option to disable charging when connected to a PC..
XSIVSPD said:
Maybe we finally figured out why they included the option to disable charging when connected to a PC..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was just thinking that on some systems it might have interfered with craptive sync. I never guessed that it was because of direct charging issues.
Do you still have problems if you are plugged into the OEM charger, and not a USB port or hub?
-Jay
Jay2TheRescue said:
I was just thinking that on some systems it might have interfered with craptive sync. I never guessed that it was because of direct charging issues.
Do you still have problems if you are plugged into the OEM charger, and not a USB port or hub?
-Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep. I tried tethering through WiFi (successfully), and same result. Maybe even heats up more, since now there's one more module to power up.
Somebody told me some time ago that iPod charger fixes these problems... can anybody confirm that?
DarkDvr said:
Yep. I tried tethering through WiFi (successfully), and same result. Maybe even heats up more, since now there's one more module to power up.
Somebody told me some time ago that iPod charger fixes these problems... can anybody confirm that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My Kaiser would get hot with a teathered WiFi data connection, but I don't think it ever stopped charging on me.
-Jay
message deleted
Jay2TheRescue said:
My Kaiser would get hot with a teathered WiFi data connection, but I don't think it ever stopped charging on me.
-Jay
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hmm.. sorry, but, are you sure? Try tetheting through a powered USB and.. I dunno.. do a big download or something, play an online game.. do something traffic intensive.. it should stop charging.. if it won't - hell, please let me know!
con_ritmo said:
i have an att tilt with the stock rom minus the bloatware.
when i installed battery status (basic version) i noticed that my charging became extremely slow. with the ac charger after the battery status install...it registered +350ma, then it fell to +110ma and wouldn't go any higher, no matter if i soft-reset or not...sometimes it was simply 0. i tried usb connection, ac connection, it didn't make a difference. the charging crawled along slower than i had ever seen it. 39%...40%..........41%. i had enough and i deleted battery status and softreset.
when i rebooted the phone, the battery immediately read 100% (from 41% before the reboot)!!!! and the charging was back to normal.
so my suggestion is to see if removing battery status...and see if that helps?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's really bizzare.. I had BS for a long time and never seen any problems, actually.. I just reflashed and haven't installed BS on it (I have no need for it now). We'll see if it makes any difference.. I hope it does.
DarkDvr said:
Hmm.. sorry, but, are you sure? Try tetheting through a powered USB and.. I dunno.. do a big download or something, play an online game.. do something traffic intensive.. it should stop charging.. if it won't - hell, please let me know!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I never got teathering to work through USB. I'd either teather through WiFi or BT with the a/c charger plugged in. I'd imagine teathering through WiFi would be the worst. Most times I teather I'm just reading email, visiting various forums, and on rare occasions I'm downloading music. I'll have to try later and see what happens while I download music over a teathered WiFi connection...
-Jay
My Kaiser was absolutely baking last night.
I have a stuck pixel so was using a video that I found somewhere that you play on a continuous loop. The phone wasn't completely flat when I started playing the video but within half an hour or so the low batt notification popped up so I stuck it on charge (supplied mains charger).
I was connected to wifi but wasn't actually doing anything with it (video being played from sd card), in fact I wasn't even using the phone, it was just sat on the side charging and playing the video.
About an hour later I came back to the phone to find it was extremely hot. So hot the heat had travelled right through the phone body and even the screen was hot to touch and the battery was still flat so had clearly stopped charging.
I immediately switched the phone off and removed the battery, even then it took an age to cool down.
I don't know whether to get on to Orange for a replacement... I don't think it's right that it should get that hot.
This has been discussed before but some nice new information is coming out in this thread that ties a few things together.
The Lithium battery does have an onboard charging management system that will stop charge if the battery overheats but also if this heat is combined with high current drain. This should be at a precise point but I have experimented with three types of battery and get very different results between the three AND also between batteries of the same type.
The best performing battery seems to be the latest Samsung (P/N 35H00086-00M) with the external 'X' shaped heat spreader on the back that connects to the four earthing points in the battery compartment. Ealier batteries and some 3rd party batteries have this earthing spreader covered with potting compound or even omitted.
One other item I have found, a 1A rated USB port does not give a continous 1A output. Most ports are only rated at 1A surge and will only give out approx 600mA continuous before IT'S own thermal management system cuts off and kills the USB completely, this is probably the cause of comms loss by some people.
Nice informative thread DarkDvr.
Has anyone else noticed this.......?
I guess I am one of the fortunate ones who have the GPS somewhat "working" and I tend to use it quite a bit... Normally, I just put the phone on my car mount, open up gps, navigate, boom......works good....most of the time..... However, I have noticed that charging my phone while running my Google Nav app causes HUGE accuracy problems...in fact, I cant use it at all. The app thinks I am on different streets, tries to recalculate route, thinks I jumped to another street, thinks I am going in the opposite direction I am heading, keeps thinking I am on the freeway when Im not, etc.
When I unplug the phone charger from the phone, it works ok again. Anyone else seen this?
Nope. Mine works the same whether its plugged in or not. I have noticed that the battery gets hot sometimes when I use GPS for a long time with the charger going.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
creepyncrawly said:
Nope. Mine works the same whether its plugged in or not. I have noticed that the battery gets hot sometimes when I use GPS for a long time with the charger going.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using XDA App
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ditto, same either way.
Which is working!
Odd. Maybe its my charger then. I have tried two car chargers and they both cause crazy innacuracies to my gps. What are the output ratings of your car chargers if you dont mind?
gormander said:
Odd. Maybe its my charger then. I have tried two car chargers and they both cause crazy innacuracies to my gps. What are the output ratings of your car chargers if you dont mind?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't know for sure. Mine is a cheap foreign model, but supposedly with a regulator chip inside. I suppose probably 700 ma.
i haven't seen any problems with my gps while using the charger if anything i believe it runs a little better, google navigation works pretty awesome on my phone, i'm running cognition 9.1.3 and only made one adjustment to the gps settings which is i turned it from hot start to cold start because i wasnt getting any gps locks
ps. before using navigation i usually open lbstestmode, and run get position when it finds a lock, i press the home key to exit out of it but it allows it to keep running, by doing this i have around a 10 sec lock on time with 5 to 10 meter accuracy, even with tracking, if i don't it takes a while for google maps to find me and it usually has me pointing the wrong way
I don't have any choice but to power it on the AC. It was connected at the back of my receiver (Yamaha) but unfortunately the USB on my receiver is in front but I'd rather use its own power for a clean look. The problem right now is the chromecast is always on. I can see the white led is always there. I'm afraid this will not going to last if its always on
ad78 said:
I don't have any choice but to power it on the AC. It was connected at the back of my receiver (Yamaha) but unfortunately the USB on my receiver is in front but I'd rather use its own power for a clean look. The problem right now is the chromecast is always on. I can see the white led is always there. I'm afraid this will not going to last if its always on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't think you will have a problem with it being always on. If you are really concerned, you could always get one of those Green power strips that turn off specific power ports if the main power port isn't in use.
ad78 said:
I'm afraid this will not going to last if its always on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I agree that this shouldn't be a concern. Most modern LEDs running at standard intensity 24/7/365 should last 8-11+ years. You should be asking yourself if you expect to still be using your Chromecast over a decade from now. Also: When was the last time you saw a consumer electronics device in use with a dead LED?
muchtall said:
I agree that this shouldn't be a concern. Most modern LEDs running at standard intensity 24/7/365 should last 8-11+ years. You should be asking yourself if you expect to still be using your Chromecast over a decade from now. Also: When was the last time you saw a consumer electronics device in use with a dead LED?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i am not concern with LED, this morning i checked the device and hold it and its really WARM.
muchtall said:
When was the last time you saw a consumer electronics device in use with a dead LED?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have a tuner/amplifier that I still use to power my small Bose speakers that is from the early 90s. The LED panel on the front is burned out so its no longer useful to tune radio stations, but the amplifier still works as well as it did from day 1. Amplifiers are hundreds of $$ for one with similar wattage, so i have continued to deal with its problems.
The manual says nothing about overheating causing damage to the device.
All that the manual says is to unplug it (to let it cool off) before removing it. Heat shouldn't be a problem.
ad78 said:
I don't have any choice but to power it on the AC. It was connected at the back of my receiver (Yamaha) but unfortunately the USB on my receiver is in front but I'd rather use its own power for a clean look. The problem right now is the chromecast is always on. I can see the white led is always there. I'm afraid this will not going to last if its always on
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does your receiver have a 'switched' outlet on the back? That outlet will go on/off with the receiver. You could plug the Chromecast into it.
slevy951 said:
Does your receiver have a 'switched' outlet on the back? That outlet will go on/off with the receiver. You could plug the Chromecast into it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
this is the first idea but no outlet at the back. no choice, i transferred the usb now in the front. no kidding, the chromecast is running from hot to warm.
I have built a Nexus 7 into my car and I have a small issue.
I need a tasker profile:
When I turn the car on, the screen turns on and music plays.
When i turn the car off, the music stops and the screen turns off. (along with other stuff)
I have created a "test" version of all this so when I connect a power cable (i.e when charging) it turns the screen on and plays music.
When I disconnect the USB (i.e. stops charging) the screen goes off, music stops, bluetooth off etc and all this works fine.
However, the USB will always be connected with power coming through so I cannot use this option. I need another way to detect if the car is on and when it turns off so I can run the correct tasks.
One option i thought of is buy a wireless charger and build it into the car. When my phone is placed on the charger, send a text message to the tablet to turn it on, and when i turn the car off the charging will stop, then the phone will send a text to the tablet to turn the screen off etc.
However after purchasing the wireless charger, i realised everytime i get a call or take my phone of the charger for whatever reason, the screen will go off and music will stop, so this isnt an option either.
So the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Hope that makes sense
idi_idi said:
ISo the question is, what can i do so tasker can detect that the car is on or off so the nexus can perform the tasks?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You do realize that you really have two problems, right? The Nexus 7 will not know when the car is started, or stopped. Unless you can disconnect the power, manually etc.. If you can do that, you can send a command in fastboot to force the N7 to power up when power is connected, otherwise you'd have to boot it up manually.
You could unplug the USB charger.. Or have the tablet turn off after N hours of inactivity, although how do you detect "new" activity if there's no change when the car is started.
If your car has bluetooth, you could detect that as the "turn off" task perhaps, but turning on is probably your bigger issue.
Will the wireless charger idea work?
idi_idi said:
Will the wireless charger idea work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No idea what you mean by wireless charger (2012 model has no wireless charging), or how you'd control it with the phone. And unless your tablet is a 3g one, I don't know how you'd directly communicate with it either.
I just put my phone back to stock so I had to uninstall Tasker, however your tablet does not pull power once the car is off correct? I had a power based one as well, I remember testing it with a surge protector. I could leave the USB connected but flip the surge protector on and off (to mimic power to the phone being halted). To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
elpeterson said:
To my knowledge when the car is off your USB shouldn't be drawing power therefore you could run the profile off that. Export the profile and post here. I'd like to help test it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.
khaytsus said:
My last four cars (current and previous of wife and my cars) the lighter plug stays powered when the engine is off.
I think it's getting increasingly common for the plugs to stay powered. So there's no way for the tablet to know the car is off unless the car has bluetooth and you can look for that.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Sent from my Nexus 5 using xda app-developers app
elpeterson said:
I have actually found the exact opposite to me true. My wife's 2014 Pilot goes off as well as my 2012 Veloster whereas my 2001 Sable and her 2007 Passat left them on. I'm not sure if you can resolve your issue then. I'll keep looking into it. You could trigger it based on speed I think
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I suppose that could work.. Find out the speed for several periods in a row, if it's zero, assume it's time to shut down. But that'd mean it's playing music etc during that period etc.
IMO bluetooth, or a plug he can turn off, is really the only way if his USB is powered up all of the time.
Also remember, he has no way to know when to power UP either. I still maintain that's the bigger problem, especially if it's a fixed install and he can't poke the power button
At the moment, its connected so when the car turns on, the USB is powered up and when the car turns off, the power in the USB stops. So at the moment, my tasker profile works on "when charging" do Task A, when not charging do Task B. And it all works fine at the moment.
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days) so i planned to keep it always charging, so the power in the USB will always be there regardless of if the car is on or off. So i cant use the "when charging" on tasker anymore. So i needed a new way to it to figure out when i got in the car.
Here are my ideas:
1. Have a wireless charger in my car for my phone. (Not the tablet). When i get in the car, i could put my phone on the charger, have the phone send a text to the tablet to turn it on. When i remove the phone from the charger, send a text to the tablet to turn it off. Simples
2. Connect a wifi router in the boot or something and have it start up only when the car starts, and turn off with the car. It doesn't have to be connected to the internet, it just needs to power up. Then i can do a 'When wifi near' on tasker to see if the car is off or on, and turn the screen off accordingly.
3. Connect the tablet to my phones bluetooth. Whenever i get in the car, they will connect and the tablet will power on. when i leave the car, it will power off. (Not the best option since it will stay on even if i am near the car)
4. Similar to option 1, but have a nfc sticker in the car. when i swipe my phone on it, it communicates with the tablet and turns it on, n then off when required. but i dont want to do this since i know i am going to forget to turn it off one day.
I don't really want to do the speed option, since i want it to turn on as soon as i enter the car, not when i start driving, and i want to be able to park up and use it when i need to put an addess in the sat nav etc.
idi_idi said:
However I am having issues with charging, (The device is not charging fast enough when turned on and the battery drains over a couple of days)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.
idi_idi said:
I've tried about 20 different chargers, up to 2.5amps. The problem isnt the charger. The problem is i dont drive the car long enough to give it time to charge. So if i drive the car for about half an hour a day, for the other 23.5 hours, its on standby. so the battery is always going to go less. So thats why I plan to connect the charger directly to the battery so it will always be charging.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh, I thought you had the tablet turning off when the car went off. If I were you, I'd set up a profile that turns off the tablet if it hasn't had power in a few hours, pretty simple to do. On Power, set a time var, every so often check that time var to see if it exceeds your threshold, and power down if so.
If you don't have much installed, it should be a fairly quick power-up, especially the plug goes hot when you start the car.
BTW I hope you're considering cold and heat if you're leaving the tablet in the car. Leaving it in the heat all summer will will the battery.
You can use Timur's kernel, it senses power to turn N7 on or deep sleep it.
Also charges N7 while using OTG.
It;s designed for car install.
khaytsus said:
If your charger isn't charging fast enough, you're using a crappy charger or one that isn't designed for Android. If your car has a built-in USB port, those are usually super slow, maybe 500mA, most less.
Anyway, glad to hear that your power follows the car state, that makes it all simple.
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I agree, you need to get at least a 2A charger for your car. My wife would watch Netflix on long drives and my car USB port or the normal USB charger I got for the cigarette lighter worked until I up'd it to a 2A charger. I can have screen on for hours while streaming video and still fully charge the tablet in a reasonable amount of time.
Does anyone know if you're going to be able to kill all the Bluetooth radiation or are they going to force you to leave the pain in some kind of Bluetooth State all the time I would like to know if I can toggle it on and off
I work at Verizon and from what my Samsung rep said it doesn't have a normal. Lithlum ion battery it uses some special battery that never goes out. If it dies you can still use it like a spen. It only takes 30 seconds to charge it tho.
Cool but can the actual Bluetooth radiation from the pen and or the phone be toggled off?
im sure it will be like everything other s pen and only be on when ejected from phone
UnicornHub said:
I work at Verizon and from what my Samsung rep said it doesn't have a normal. Lithlum ion battery it uses some special battery that never goes out. If it dies you can still use it like a spen. It only takes 30 seconds to charge it tho.
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The S-Pen doesn't have a battery in it.
Instead, it's equipped with supercapacitor that draws power from the phone instantly when the S-Pen rests in the silo.The supercapacitor is capable of storing energy that provides the required power supply to the Bluetooth radio.
bjmjpl said:
Does anyone know if you're going to be able to kill all the Bluetooth radiation or are they going to force you to leave the pain in some kind of Bluetooth State all the time I would like to know if I can toggle it on and off
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You can do it by keeping the "S-Pen remote" Off in phone settings.
Be noted that to let the S-Pen work as a remote, you will neighter have to toggle the Bluetooth ON nor "nearby device Scanning" ON, in phone settings. The S-Pen doesn't trigger them either. The working of BLE with respect to the S-Pen seems to be hidden.
bjmjpl said:
Cool but can the actual Bluetooth radiation from the pen and or the phone be toggled off?
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Why would you need to turn it off?
It's not standard Bluetooth, it's Bluetooth LE which transmits at much lower power and only for like 3 milliseconds at a time.