[Q] Two modes camera flash - Touch Pro, Fuze Themes and Apps

Here's my question, is there a way, to make the camera flash to use the normal light, and not the bright, when taking a picture, but in the same time, if a select it, to use the bright. It'll be usefull, because the bright flash makes things blurry or too bright when shooting from a close distance. If a want to take a picture of a business card (for OCR) I have to use separate light source, because the flash is too bright and makes it unreadable, and the normal flash is enaugh for the purpouse.

I too was interested in this idea about a month back. It would be very useful to take the photo with the standard flash light rather than the super bright flash. As it is this level that you focus the photo and expect it to be at, only to sadly recieve a horribly over flashed photo.

agreed...^^

What would really be awesome with the camera would be the ability to disable the light sensor. That way, in low light the FPS doesnt go to crap leaving us with blurry pictures. Also, the flash doing what a real flash does, being flash instead of stay on...
As for the normal light and not bright, hTorch has a toggle to go between both, we just need to see if there is a reg key or something to just enable the light without it going to bright mode for the actual shot.
There are a few other threads that talk about the camera reg settings, i just forget where.

Related

Camera Driver yet?

I was wondering if there was any sort of camera driver for download yet, ive been looking all over the site and have yet to find one, and ive looked throughout the internet for one, but Im finding old websites not updated since january....pleeease anybody?
Is this what you are looking for?
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=355587&highlight=camera
that version is still slow videorendering...
Thanks, it seemed to help out alot in brighter areas but the dark places are still slow... its no problem to me ill just use a dig camera if I need a dark pic... thank you =D
A trick I picked up here with the "new" driver was to turn the camera on. After it comes up, press the power button to put the phone in "sleep" mode. Hold your hand over the camera lens, wake up the phone with the power button, wait 5 seconds and see if the frame rate is a little faster. Goofy trick, but it seems to work.
p51d007 said:
A trick I picked up here with the "new" driver was to turn the camera on. After it comes up, press the power button to put the phone in "sleep" mode. Hold your hand over the camera lens, wake up the phone with the power button, wait 5 seconds and see if the frame rate is a little faster. Goofy trick, but it seems to work.
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Click to collapse
i found this trick a long while ago. it does seem to work but i dont think it has anything to do with the htc-ca or omnia drivers so even if you dont have them installed, it will work.
I'm using the Laurentius26 V10 ( http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=416278 ) cooked ROM with the HTCA drivers ( see http://www.htcclassaction.org ) and the camera is performing extremely well. There is no evidence of any lag when there is sufficient light available, it seems to still take a performance hit when it has to compensate.
Rob
ps. that trick that p51d007 suggested is completely bizarre! Even the lag with close up or darkness goes away.
i am using the hyperdragon iiir lite rom with the (recomended) radio 1.65.24.36
and the omnia 3d driver installed in it
and video acceleration is perfect!!
a small improovement i have see also in camera
From my point of view... the camera gets SLOW whenever it has to increase exposure to compensate for the dark areas. The power button somehow fixes te exposure... or disables it.
Point is.. although being 3.0 MP...camera quality is nothing like a 3.0 real photographic camera. So... my question is...
Would picture quality get that worse... if the camera would always shoot with a fixed (lets say 1.0) exposure... and then increase the brightness of the picture via software ?
And to be REALLY bold... and please realize that i'm sugesting with virtually or really NO KNOWLEDGE ... 3D graphics can have its gamma controled... at least in a normal computer... how about showing the camera image on a D3D or OGLES texture... and increasing it "exposure" via gamma control ?
(Am i nuts?)
Yeah that trick works, but the picture is darker and a lot grainier. Also if you point the camera to a bright light source, it "resets" and then when you point at dark areas again, it lags. That trick seems to "initalize" the camera to a dark setting, for lack of a better phrase.
hambola said:
Yeah that trick works, but the picture is darker and a lot grainier. Also if you point the camera to a bright light source, it "resets" and then when you point at dark areas again, it lags. That trick seems to "initalize" the camera to a dark setting, for lack of a better phrase.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Damn, you're right, it resets when you point it at a bright source...I was all excited for a minute, too...
I wonder if there is a way to make the camera behave that way all the time? I snapped a picture with the trick active and it came out pretty good.

Autofocus

Hi,
Almost every camera in the world has a halfway-click that focuses, measures the light and then takes the picture when you press the shutter button all the way.
On other phones (iPhone), where there isn't a halfway -setting, this is done by taking the picture when the user releases the button, which gives much greater control over exactly when the picture is taken.
Do you know of any program (camerazoom, snapshotpro etc?) that works this way? The stock camera app doesn't and it's quite detrimental to the quality of pictures you can take.
This means the camera needs to auto focus when I press the trackball button down and then take the picture within a split second when I let go of the button, since it no longer needs to measure light or focus. I would really love this feature.
Hi ,
Go to my thread http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=551904 the program I mentioned has this option also .
Thanks! Will check it out!
There is a workaround that i use that is effective on my mT3G. I turn auto focus off. That makes the camera focus at infinity. With these tiny lenses, infinity can start at less than three feet. So anything farther away than that is in focus if you turn off auto focus. I use SnapPhoto Pro to turn off the autofocus.
If you use SnapPhoto Pro autofocus, you touch the screen to focus and let go to take the photo. That works well. It also has a continuous focus feature which works very well but drains the battery.

Is HDR not used when shooting in auto with ai on?

So I've taken several shots with this phone now, and I've noticed that whenever I use auto mode with the AI turned on, HDR is never used. Literally not a single picture as HDR listed in the "info" when I check it.
Slash8915 said:
So I've taken several shots with this phone now, and I've noticed that whenever I use auto mode with the AI turned on, HDR is never used. Literally not a single picture as HDR listed in the "info" when I check it.
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Click to collapse
The dedicated HDR mode doesn't seem to do HDR too well, frankly, so I wouldn't worry about whether or not the AI selects it. I've tried it in numerous ideal HDR situations and found it lacking.
What's interesting is that if you're taking a photo in Photo mode, regardless of whether the AI is on or off, sometimes the software decides that HDR is in order, it will prompt you to hold the phone steady with the "Sharpening" toast.
In the 3X zoom mode, in low light scenarios or in extremely directional illumination, the "Sharpening" toast = destroying photo toast. In even illumination of a high-contrast scene, however, the "Sharpening" toast appears to be combining images to provide a very decent resulting HDR outcome. Go figure. And then there's the night mode, which is the best-implemented function in the camera. You can use it even in daytime to produce some really interesting looking, over-the-top HDR scenes.
I think the bottom line on HDR here based on my observations is that the phone might doing something in its regular shooting mode, even when you expect it not to and have turned off AI, but it's inconsistent and not well communicated to you. It's not as elegant, effective or transparent as Google's HDR+ and it doesn't happen for every photo.
Just my opinion.
inepty said:
The dedicated HDR mode doesn't seem to do HDR too well, frankly, so I wouldn't worry about whether or not the AI selects it. I've tried it in numerous ideal HDR situations and found it lacking.
What's interesting is that if you're taking a photo in Photo mode, regardless of whether the AI is on or off, sometimes the software decides that HDR is in order, it will prompt you to hold the phone steady with the "Sharpening" toast.
In the 3X zoom mode, in low light scenarios or in extremely directional illumination, the "Sharpening" toast = destroying photo toast. In even illumination of a high-contrast scene, however, the "Sharpening" toast appears to be combining images to provide a very decent resulting HDR outcome. Go figure. And then there's the night mode, which is the best-implemented function in the camera. You can use it even in daytime to produce some really interesting looking, over-the-top HDR scenes.
I think the bottom line on HDR here based on my observations is that the phone might doing something in its regular shooting mode, even when you expect it not to and have turned off AI, but it's inconsistent and not well communicated to you. It's not as elegant, effective or transparent as Google's HDR+ and it doesn't happen for every photo.
Just my opinion.
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Click to collapse
You nailed it.

doubt front flash

Hiiii.
I have a doubt, why when I put the front camera and put the flash in automatic, it lights up like a flashlight? I thought I lit when I took the picture. Is there a method to activate it only when I press the button to take a picture?
As far as I can tell, it lights up when it detects there's not enough light. Try it. When it detects light, flash is on. But when it doesn't, for example when you point it towards a lamp, it turns off.
I think that's intended, in many cases the front flash can ruin a photo depending on surrounding lighting. If it's always turned on you can preview what your photo will look like with actual light.

New Night Mode Camera Question

I am planning to get a new S10 soon. With the new dedicate night mode update, I have a few questions:
1. Is it possible to use Night mode in bright condition(like during a sunny day)? This because night mode in the Pixel phone provide better quality even in bright condition.
2. Is it possible to force Night mode to use the telephoto camera.
3. Is it possible to force Night mode to use the ultra wide angle camera
Thanks!
1. Yes
2. No
3. Yes
Except there is no forcing anything as you just selection the options normally on the camera app interface
Also this is a thread for the Q&A section.
2 is apperently in the works as well for ultra wide angle
Zmantech said:
2 is apperently in the works as well for ultra wide angle
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Click to collapse
2 is referring to the 2x optical zoom lens. Night mode already works with the Ultra wide lens.
Can I also ask if the night mode is actually useable? IE does not require super steady hands or long exposure times? For example with the Ultra wide which has a smaller aperture.
What kind of exposure times are usually applied in the dark? I'm talking about in the outdoors, some street lights, artificial lighting etc.
more than usable
lee82gx said:
Can I also ask if the night mode is actually useable? IE does not require super steady hands or long exposure times? For example with the Ultra wide which has a smaller aperture.
What kind of exposure times are usually applied in the dark? I'm talking about in the outdoors, some street lights, artificial lighting etc.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Night mode doesn't need super steady hands. A normal non-shaky hand is enough to get an excellent photograph.
Exposure is based on the lighting available. For me, outdoors with street lighting shot has always been around 1/6 th of a second. Again this always depends on the light available for the sensor you are using.

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