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How to modify external battery pack to use with my dopod u1000

Hi Athena owners and gurus ,
I have an external battery / portable power pack - etitech model : 3s5p-L01 ( www.etitech.com.my ) input : 16 - 24VDC, 75 w and output : 14 - 24VDC ( Auto adaptable ) , complete with a cable , I wanted it to modify it's cable into a mini usb end to fit into my dopod u1000 , but i think i need a power down adapter put it in between this power pack and u1000 before i can use - right ? I dont know how much mah this battery pack is but it is suitable to power up my IBM R60 laptop for at least 2 to 3 hours of usage . I was thinking if can modify to use with my u1000 , imagine the maximum hours i can use with one full charge and to use it when travelling for let's say a week of usage . Please anyone can suggest to me on how can i use this ext. battery pack with my u1000 because i really need this to work and it will be good thing to multiple use this for many devices besides my Ibm , Thanks and best regards , cheers - jimmunsw

Dear All athena owners ,
YeeeHaaaaaa ! I have managed to mod my external power pack to power up all my u1000 and other devices , here's how :-
My external lithium ion battery pack - i forgot the total of how many mah's but i know it consist of many-many battery cells , its size is 9 inches long x 6.5 inches deep x 0.5 inch thick , weight is i don't know - maybe half a pound , after full charge of 4.5 hours it can power up my ibm r60 for minimum 3 hours depending how i use it , input and output as mentioned on my 1st post above , it is connected out by a special pin cable , what i did was i cut it off , inside is just two wires , i went to my local it mall - low yat in KL today , to buy a DC12V to usb to twin car socket extension adapter - cost me usd5.00/- , of course it's made in China - the best price there is in this world ! , it's input voltage is dc 12v to dc 16v , output is max dc 5A , usb output is dc 5V to 5.4V max / 500mA , total output is 60W , i cut the cable ( consist of 2 wires also ) of this socket adapter and join it to my battery pack cable out which i have cut just now , and i use my original dopod / htc car charger socket which input is 10 to 30 vdc and output is 5v , 2A , the end of this cable is a mini usb , then finally connect to my dopod u1000 , and presto ! it works flawlessly charging my u1000 for half hour , i monitored it and it's not hot , from battery pack i touched all the way to the adapter socket to my u1000 , after half hour it is slightly warm because of the lights but not hot at all , i will further test on total how many charges and the hours that i can use on my u1000 until the external battery runs flat for another full charge again . And i will also test on my other phones and devices later too . I can imagine how wonderful that i can bring my u1000 to anywhere without worrying of real powerful battery backup for some real serious and long work on my u1000 , plus i really put my external battery to work on not only my initial ibm r60 laptop but now it's for most of any 5v 1A electronic devices , and i have that feeling of not wasting the full potential of this big external battery pack that i have . Thanks for reading everyone , i wish u best regards and cheers ! jimmunsw

HD2 killing car chargers??

My HD2 has just killed it's second car charger, grr! Has anyone else had this problem with generic micro USB chargers? Or genuine HTC ones?
The power light comes on in the charger but nothing happens on the phone. My car holder charger was in 2 sections, a mini USB cable to the cradle and then a converter to micro USB in the cradle. If you swap the mini USB cable the rest works, but with the broken cable, the cradle power indicator still lights up.
Thanks in advance if anyone's had the same problem or got some advice.

dizzi141 said:
My HD2 has just killed it's second car charger, grr! Has anyone else had this problem with generic micro USB chargers? Or genuine HTC ones?
The power light comes on in the charger but nothing happens on the phone. My car holder charger was in 2 sections, a mini USB cable to the cradle and then a converter to micro USB in the cradle. If you swap the mini USB cable the rest works, but with the broken cable, the cradle power indicator still lights up.
Thanks in advance if anyone's had the same problem or got some advice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
How hot is the phone?
If it is too hot (usually from a car charger in a hot environment), the Leo will not charge. The HD2 will blink green and orange.

Hello dizzi141,
Same problem here, already one car charger down. I have a red led burning on the car charger but nothing happens on the device ...
Grtz

My charger is working but charger is getting very hot and it charging the phone very slowly like 7-10 min one percent (%1) any way to fix this problem?

It's not a heat thing as far as I can tell, it works one minute and then next time it's dead. The phone doesn't recognise it's plugged into a charger even.

So the led is not blinking at all? (when plugged in to charger)

Shure that its your htc hd2 killing and not the car ? Cheapass chargers suks bigtime

Power consumption
Could it be that your generic charger is rated at 500mA and the HD2 can draw somewhere between 1500 and 2000mA ?
That might blow a fuse (or burn up the voltage regulator if unfused) in the "el-cheapo" car charger..
Personally, I'm using a 1000mA USB adapter from dealextreme.com
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.34040
and a standard USB cable.
Works perfectly for me.
(Sure, I might get the orange/green LED, but that's because of heat. I get that with original charger too, if it's too hot when I charge.)
Just my two cents...

I used to have a lower power generic car charger but it blew after a couple of months of occasional use.
For 'peace of mind' I brought the official HTC one as advised in the accessories section of their website, it's still working fine now after about 3 months of occasional use (just have to wiggle it around a bit to make a good connection in the socket sometimes).
I do have to align the screen mount to an aircon vent on the dash to keep it cool though, it overheats in no time - and that's just uk heat!

I haven't had any problems with heat or charging. I use this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021129 , you can get them pretty cheap if you watch their email promos.

I'd agree with Bonzo.
I have tested few chargers (Samsung branded including ).
Everything what was not marked as 1A (1000mA) output was useless.

i use the origininale htc`s car chargers.
they work flawless.
CC-C200 for the hd2
i had a CC-C100 before.

[Q] Making an external battery charger.

Hi there!
My brother just bought me a spare battery. Well it still needs to be charged after usuage. The thing is I have to swap the batteries everytime I used them both. The solution is to buy a cradle to charge it but these are kinda expensive.
My solution would be to build my own charging cradle. But I lack the knowledge of electricity skills to succesfully making such charger without blowing up my battery. Therefor I'm asking the community on XDA for help!
Well this is what I need:
- Battery has 3 connectors: + and - and on in the middle but i dont know what that is.
- I have a usb cable with 4 wires (black/red/green/white)
- I want to connect the usb connecter to my PC or AC adapter and the wires to my battery.
This way I can charge both my HD2 and the spare battery at the same time.
The question is, is this possible and if yes, can this be done just like that or do I need transistors or conductors (or whatever they may called). It needs to be safe, I dont wanna blow up my battery or my AC adapter nor my PC...

Do not even contemplate it.
It is clear that you do not know enough about batteries.
A quick google for desktop chargers came back with one for only £30

For 25quid i got a spare battery, desktop charger and 2 screen protectors from e-bay. Carnt go wrong at that price

I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).

You can find chargers on eBay for less than 5usd. Buy one or you will fry your battery.

VerusAmos said:
I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watts not Whats
Simple answer: No you cannot connect your battery directly to the AC adaptor.
Detailed answer:
The USB port of a computer/AC adaptor provides approx 5V and a variety of currents depending on what the USB lead is plugged into.
This 5V goes to the phone.
Inside the phone is the battery charging circuit, this detects the level of charge in the battery, controls the voltage and current going to the battery to stop it releasing too much hydrogen which would cause the battery to swell and explode (look on youtube for lithium polymer battery fires).
If you think you can create a charging circuit (including selecting the right ICs and programming them) without burning yourself in a hydrogen/lithium fire, be my guest.

Incapable of making an external battery charger...
Here I am trying not to be a complete idiot and then I go and spell watts the wrong way...
But tnx for the replies, that was all I needed to hear... I guess I'll be swapping batteries after all untill I find a cheap external battery charger...
Cheers!!!

Amzer makes a very nice cradle with charging slot for your spare battery. I got mine for $28USD. I'm not going to provide the link to the outfit I bought mine from because they weren't the best of suppliers to buy from. But the Amzer cradle works very well. Downside is that you cannot use it if you have a case for your Leo that wraps around it, and is designed to stay on. Leo must be caseless to fit into the cradle. But even if you don't use the cradle as a cradle, it does have the ability to charge your spare battery.

Galaxy tab S5e pogo connector pinout

Dear all,
Just wanted to avoid spending some cash on Galaxy tab S5e stand. So short research on net show some pinouts of pogo connectors, and seems that Galaxy tab S5e uses USB pins .
So took multimeter, and found that first pin (counting from USB socket side) is GND.
Number 4 is 5V . Middle two I guessed are USB D+ and D-. But whatever combination (#2D+ or opposite D-) no success. Tablet is charging but in slow charging mode (seems to be 0,5A) . That is not so bad for me , as night is long enough to charge full easily. But anyway I would like to know what middle two pins can do. I saw on net some suggestions to use resistors, so tablet would try to charge at 2A , but none diagram works. To clarify , I have official charger and via USB cable , it charges fast.
So finally question... Do you know how to make USB connection via pogo connectors (so tablet could recognize charger, and maybe use for other USB devices)?
Or what are two middle pins for?
Here photo of my Poor's man dock. During photo there was no middle pins connected, but believe me , tried many options.
Edit, as I am new user , I can not paste links, but after 10 posts , I will update.
Edit 2 as I can not paste links, but if someone interested in photo , add http by yourself...
m.imgur.com/a/rPTQCYA

After one month of testing , I cat tell you that it is not necessary to figure out middle pins.
The device charges slowly (somewhere was written that it is limited to 0,5Ampere), but it is ok for me as during night it will be charged full anyway.
Device also activates nicely "daily board"with clock and looks nice.
I recommend this DIY stand. Made of old ethernet socket for pins, and USB printer cable.
Below link to photo how it looks like. I plan to paint it.... someday
m.imgur.com/a/jCGKCZX

Shame about the slow charging limited to 500mA. I've been looking at various tablets to potentially replace my 2019 Galaxy Tab A 10.1 in the car dash. Currently (no joke intended) having a fight with things to do with hub passthrough charging and the tablet taking over the role of power supplier when the car powers down....having pogo pins as an alternate charging method might present something useful as a fix, but 500mA doesn't exceed battery usage when powered up. Have you asked anybody that owns one of the docks to crack it open and see what's inside? Back when I had a Nexus 7, the four pogo pins on the dock corresponded to power and audio out via a 3.5mm jack in the dock.

One thing to keep in mind here that Samsung supports - and requires - QC3.0 for fast charge. So, you would need a source with that standard and if you want to verify (altghough the remaining time would immediately tell you) a suitable in line power trap.

FPC battery connector Razer Phone 2

looking for the FPC battery connector Razer Phone 2
what is the name / type of this part .. male and female..
and where can i buy these ?
i have a project, using razer phone 2 with 90hz / 120hz connected to pc with usb-c,
using nvidia gamestream and moonlight app,
so o get consitent stable stream in fullHD in 2D.
i riped off a playstation VR headset and added 3d printed adapter to hold the razer phone.
got rid of orig 3d lenses and use normal 2Dglasses with 5 diop.
i use this for flightsim with headtracking, with best possible graphic in 2D.
[ZEISS has/had the cinemizer oled glass, but only 720low resolution and low refresh rates.]
so far it works fine..
now i want to tune down the weight..
the battery of razer phone 2 weight approx. 66 gramm, the phone without battery 129 gramm.
i want to place the battery anywhere near to head or anywhere else but not in distance, in the phone anymore
i see the battery 6 pin contact plug. P+ ID P- , P+ P- , P+ NTC P-,
NTC is thermistor ..reading temperatur i gues,
the ID is a battery readable ID?
i would like to extend that cable between battery and board.
For that i need the connectors male and female type, and cable...
i searched , and only found on maxbhi.com but we can not place and order there.
i never found anywhere else these connectors, not yet...
i dont want to solder directly to board connector.
other strategie would be to disassemble the battery and use the battery connector, but with a capacitor in place of the li-poly... and use it always power plugged.
Would only work if the not present ID would not stop the hack.
( best case would be to have the phone at head backside and with flat flex cable only the display in the headset )
battery connector from Nokia 5.1 looks similar
(HUKATO) Battery FPC Pin Motherboard Connector Jack for Nokia 5.1 Plus : Amazon.in: Electronics
(HUKATO) Battery FPC Pin Motherboard Connector Jack for Nokia 5.1 Plus : Amazon.in: Electronics
www.amazon.in
maybe buy an accu from / for nokia 5.1
Akku als Ersatz für Nokia HE342, HE361 - 3000mAh, 3,85V, Li-Polymer | 888201060
Kompatibler Ersatzakku - Neues Leben für Ihr Casper / Nokia Handy Ersatzteil mit hoher Qualität und bestem Preis/Leistungsverhältnis Zuverlässige Funktionalität und volle Kompatibilität mit Ihrem Telefon Passgenaue Verarbeitung für problemlosen Einbau i…
electropapa.com
and try to open flat power cable and solder in external powerlines..

UPDATE:
i ordered a battery from nokia5.1 because FPC connectors look similar , identically
Akku als Ersatz für Nokia HE342, HE361 - 3000mAh, 3,85V, Li-Polymer - Electropapa
<strong>Kompatibler Ersatzakku - Neues Leben für Ihr Casper / Nokia Handy</strong><ul> <li>Ersatzteil mit hoher Qualität und bestem Preis/Leistungsverhältnis</li> <li>Zuverlässige Funktionalität und volle Kompatibilität mit Ihrem Telefon</li> <li>Passgen
electropapa.com
similar to: HE342, HE361
result:
plugin battery - successful
start razor phone 2 - it starts .. display animations playing = successful
enter pin screen appears
BUT
phone shows message "shutting down" and it does what it said.. shuting down...
so i guess its part of software that looks for correct battery ID and shuts down if not....
is there any software hack ? Root? nabling accepting any battery ID?
the cable of that nokia battery has only 4 labeled PINs at the foil
P- T P+
P- ID P+
.. not 6 ...
just i could not wait...
now i opened the battery more and more...
there is a tiny small and long electronic board .. with the 2 wider contacts to battery terminals..
and other side the FPC flat cabel with the connector
i will opended the black thin tape bit by bit , gently,..
and now i think i can cut of the battery termials
and then add my own electronic circuits that provide plus/minus 4.4 volts to that board..
and this board will tell the razer phone the correct battery ID...
and whats with thermistor? hopefully it is only sitting on that battery board too...
and not

finaly, i got it to work
i cutted the battery board from the battery itself,
to get the board that delivers the battery id to the phone...
i cutted the battery terminals to this board...
its all enclosed in black thin tape..
then i ordered a 5volt 25 watt (5 amps), power supply
i also ordered the ceramic condensators C1210C107M4PAC7800 that were mentioned in video
solderd ceramic capacitors in parallel on a piece of raw new board .. soldered cables to that..
one side used clamps/pins from automobile connectors.. to clamp on battery board terminals and tape isomaterial around..
to avoid 5v directly to this battery board.. because smartphone battersy is rated 3.8v .. max 4.4volts...
i firstly tried resistors .. but with no luck.. maybe to much ESR , too thin resistor ends,
after some rethinking
i got to use big diode, which always cause a voltage drop around 0.6volts..
with that i got down to 4.4 +- 0.1 volt...
and SURPRISE
the smartphone starts up without any automated shutdown,
works fine