FPC battery connector Razer Phone 2 - Razer Phone 2 Questions & Answers

looking for the FPC battery connector Razer Phone 2
what is the name / type of this part .. male and female..
and where can i buy these ?
i have a project, using razer phone 2 with 90hz / 120hz connected to pc with usb-c,
using nvidia gamestream and moonlight app,
so o get consitent stable stream in fullHD in 2D.
i riped off a playstation VR headset and added 3d printed adapter to hold the razer phone.
got rid of orig 3d lenses and use normal 2Dglasses with 5 diop.
i use this for flightsim with headtracking, with best possible graphic in 2D.
[ZEISS has/had the cinemizer oled glass, but only 720low resolution and low refresh rates.]
so far it works fine..
now i want to tune down the weight..
the battery of razer phone 2 weight approx. 66 gramm, the phone without battery 129 gramm.
i want to place the battery anywhere near to head or anywhere else but not in distance, in the phone anymore
i see the battery 6 pin contact plug. P+ ID P- , P+ P- , P+ NTC P-,
NTC is thermistor ..reading temperatur i gues,
the ID is a battery readable ID?
i would like to extend that cable between battery and board.
For that i need the connectors male and female type, and cable...
i searched , and only found on maxbhi.com but we can not place and order there.
i never found anywhere else these connectors, not yet...
i dont want to solder directly to board connector.
other strategie would be to disassemble the battery and use the battery connector, but with a capacitor in place of the li-poly... and use it always power plugged.
Would only work if the not present ID would not stop the hack.
( best case would be to have the phone at head backside and with flat flex cable only the display in the headset )
battery connector from Nokia 5.1 looks similar
(HUKATO) Battery FPC Pin Motherboard Connector Jack for Nokia 5.1 Plus : Amazon.in: Electronics
(HUKATO) Battery FPC Pin Motherboard Connector Jack for Nokia 5.1 Plus : Amazon.in: Electronics
www.amazon.in
maybe buy an accu from / for nokia 5.1
Akku als Ersatz für Nokia HE342, HE361 - 3000mAh, 3,85V, Li-Polymer | 888201060
Kompatibler Ersatzakku - Neues Leben für Ihr Casper / Nokia Handy Ersatzteil mit hoher Qualität und bestem Preis/Leistungsverhältnis Zuverlässige Funktionalität und volle Kompatibilität mit Ihrem Telefon Passgenaue Verarbeitung für problemlosen Einbau i…
electropapa.com
and try to open flat power cable and solder in external powerlines..

UPDATE:
i ordered a battery from nokia5.1 because FPC connectors look similar , identically
Akku als Ersatz für Nokia HE342, HE361 - 3000mAh, 3,85V, Li-Polymer - Electropapa
<strong>Kompatibler Ersatzakku - Neues Leben für Ihr Casper / Nokia Handy</strong><ul> <li>Ersatzteil mit hoher Qualität und bestem Preis/Leistungsverhältnis</li> <li>Zuverlässige Funktionalität und volle Kompatibilität mit Ihrem Telefon</li> <li>Passgen
electropapa.com
similar to: HE342, HE361
result:
plugin battery - successful
start razor phone 2 - it starts .. display animations playing = successful
enter pin screen appears
BUT
phone shows message "shutting down" and it does what it said.. shuting down...
so i guess its part of software that looks for correct battery ID and shuts down if not....
is there any software hack ? Root? nabling accepting any battery ID?
the cable of that nokia battery has only 4 labeled PINs at the foil
P- T P+
P- ID P+
.. not 6 ...
just i could not wait...
now i opened the battery more and more...
there is a tiny small and long electronic board .. with the 2 wider contacts to battery terminals..
and other side the FPC flat cabel with the connector
i will opended the black thin tape bit by bit , gently,..
and now i think i can cut of the battery termials
and then add my own electronic circuits that provide plus/minus 4.4 volts to that board..
and this board will tell the razer phone the correct battery ID...
and whats with thermistor? hopefully it is only sitting on that battery board too...
and not

finaly, i got it to work
i cutted the battery board from the battery itself,
to get the board that delivers the battery id to the phone...
i cutted the battery terminals to this board...
its all enclosed in black thin tape..
then i ordered a 5volt 25 watt (5 amps), power supply
i also ordered the ceramic condensators C1210C107M4PAC7800 that were mentioned in video
solderd ceramic capacitors in parallel on a piece of raw new board .. soldered cables to that..
one side used clamps/pins from automobile connectors.. to clamp on battery board terminals and tape isomaterial around..
to avoid 5v directly to this battery board.. because smartphone battersy is rated 3.8v .. max 4.4volts...
i firstly tried resistors .. but with no luck.. maybe to much ESR , too thin resistor ends,
after some rethinking
i got to use big diode, which always cause a voltage drop around 0.6volts..
with that i got down to 4.4 +- 0.1 volt...
and SURPRISE
the smartphone starts up without any automated shutdown,
works fine

Related

O2 mini desktop charger modified into Athena charger

Dear Athena owners ,
I have modified an O2 mini desktop charger to suit my dopod u1000 battery charging usage as an external desktop charger . Here is how - i bought a o2 mini desktop charger ( made in china as usual ) at usd 2.00/- only ! It is only a desktop charger with mini usb connection ( no cable provided ) and you have to use your original power adapter to connect to this charger . It is 5V , 1000mA , 4.2+/- 0.03V , 500mA +/- 50mA marked at the back of the charger . Comes with 6 pin to connect u1000 battery also 6 pin , I just cut off some edges on the left side of the charger as the u1000 battery is slightly bigger , by using a burning candle and a used nt cutter or blade , heats it up and slice little by little , it may looked ugly and uneven at first , but after complete cutting it off and adjusting your u1000 battery to sit properly , then you just use another new very sharp cutter to slice off the rough edges , make nice , then you put in your u1000 battery , you have to use a rubber band to tie it around to secure the battery , connect cable and power adapter and then just charge it as a desktop charger . Thanks for reading and cheers - jimmunsw

How to modify external battery pack to use with my dopod u1000

Hi Athena owners and gurus ,
I have an external battery / portable power pack - etitech model : 3s5p-L01 ( www.etitech.com.my ) input : 16 - 24VDC, 75 w and output : 14 - 24VDC ( Auto adaptable ) , complete with a cable , I wanted it to modify it's cable into a mini usb end to fit into my dopod u1000 , but i think i need a power down adapter put it in between this power pack and u1000 before i can use - right ? I dont know how much mah this battery pack is but it is suitable to power up my IBM R60 laptop for at least 2 to 3 hours of usage . I was thinking if can modify to use with my u1000 , imagine the maximum hours i can use with one full charge and to use it when travelling for let's say a week of usage . Please anyone can suggest to me on how can i use this ext. battery pack with my u1000 because i really need this to work and it will be good thing to multiple use this for many devices besides my Ibm , Thanks and best regards , cheers - jimmunsw
Dear All athena owners ,
YeeeHaaaaaa ! I have managed to mod my external power pack to power up all my u1000 and other devices , here's how :-
My external lithium ion battery pack - i forgot the total of how many mah's but i know it consist of many-many battery cells , its size is 9 inches long x 6.5 inches deep x 0.5 inch thick , weight is i don't know - maybe half a pound , after full charge of 4.5 hours it can power up my ibm r60 for minimum 3 hours depending how i use it , input and output as mentioned on my 1st post above , it is connected out by a special pin cable , what i did was i cut it off , inside is just two wires , i went to my local it mall - low yat in KL today , to buy a DC12V to usb to twin car socket extension adapter - cost me usd5.00/- , of course it's made in China - the best price there is in this world ! , it's input voltage is dc 12v to dc 16v , output is max dc 5A , usb output is dc 5V to 5.4V max / 500mA , total output is 60W , i cut the cable ( consist of 2 wires also ) of this socket adapter and join it to my battery pack cable out which i have cut just now , and i use my original dopod / htc car charger socket which input is 10 to 30 vdc and output is 5v , 2A , the end of this cable is a mini usb , then finally connect to my dopod u1000 , and presto ! it works flawlessly charging my u1000 for half hour , i monitored it and it's not hot , from battery pack i touched all the way to the adapter socket to my u1000 , after half hour it is slightly warm because of the lights but not hot at all , i will further test on total how many charges and the hours that i can use on my u1000 until the external battery runs flat for another full charge again . And i will also test on my other phones and devices later too . I can imagine how wonderful that i can bring my u1000 to anywhere without worrying of real powerful battery backup for some real serious and long work on my u1000 , plus i really put my external battery to work on not only my initial ibm r60 laptop but now it's for most of any 5v 1A electronic devices , and i have that feeling of not wasting the full potential of this big external battery pack that i have . Thanks for reading everyone , i wish u best regards and cheers ! jimmunsw

[Q] Making an external battery charger.

Hi there!
My brother just bought me a spare battery. Well it still needs to be charged after usuage. The thing is I have to swap the batteries everytime I used them both. The solution is to buy a cradle to charge it but these are kinda expensive.
My solution would be to build my own charging cradle. But I lack the knowledge of electricity skills to succesfully making such charger without blowing up my battery. Therefor I'm asking the community on XDA for help!
Well this is what I need:
- Battery has 3 connectors: + and - and on in the middle but i dont know what that is.
- I have a usb cable with 4 wires (black/red/green/white)
- I want to connect the usb connecter to my PC or AC adapter and the wires to my battery.
This way I can charge both my HD2 and the spare battery at the same time.
The question is, is this possible and if yes, can this be done just like that or do I need transistors or conductors (or whatever they may called). It needs to be safe, I dont wanna blow up my battery or my AC adapter nor my PC...
Do not even contemplate it.
It is clear that you do not know enough about batteries.
A quick google for desktop chargers came back with one for only £30
For 25quid i got a spare battery, desktop charger and 2 screen protectors from e-bay. Carnt go wrong at that price
I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).
You can find chargers on eBay for less than 5usd. Buy one or you will fry your battery.
VerusAmos said:
I know that the AC adapter converts the input of electrical energy to my phone, I believe my phone does it to my battery too (thats where I'm not too sure).
All I need to know is if I can charge the battery safely when connecting the red wire to the + and the black wire to the - side of the battery... (The green and white wires are data)
I'm not to sure because the AC adapter has a different output than the PC USB output. Although the USB dilivers a tiny bit less voltage it delivers a significant less amount of Whats (or Amps) Basicly that means it just takes longer for the USB to charge as long as the voltage remains identical. (The USB delivers less voltage but the effect on damaging the battery is minimal because the difference is discardable)
My actuall question was: can I connect my battery directly to the AC adapter or do I need to convert the electical energy again (if my phone does a second convert after the AC adapter).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Watts not Whats
Simple answer: No you cannot connect your battery directly to the AC adaptor.
Detailed answer:
The USB port of a computer/AC adaptor provides approx 5V and a variety of currents depending on what the USB lead is plugged into.
This 5V goes to the phone.
Inside the phone is the battery charging circuit, this detects the level of charge in the battery, controls the voltage and current going to the battery to stop it releasing too much hydrogen which would cause the battery to swell and explode (look on youtube for lithium polymer battery fires).
If you think you can create a charging circuit (including selecting the right ICs and programming them) without burning yourself in a hydrogen/lithium fire, be my guest.
Incapable of making an external battery charger...
Here I am trying not to be a complete idiot and then I go and spell watts the wrong way...
But tnx for the replies, that was all I needed to hear... I guess I'll be swapping batteries after all untill I find a cheap external battery charger...
Cheers!!!
Amzer makes a very nice cradle with charging slot for your spare battery. I got mine for $28USD. I'm not going to provide the link to the outfit I bought mine from because they weren't the best of suppliers to buy from. But the Amzer cradle works very well. Downside is that you cannot use it if you have a case for your Leo that wraps around it, and is designed to stay on. Leo must be caseless to fit into the cradle. But even if you don't use the cradle as a cradle, it does have the ability to charge your spare battery.

Nexus 7 in-dash install in European Toyota Avensis T25 (2008)

Hello,
I share in this thread, my experience of mounting a 2012 Nexus 7 in my 2008 Toyota avensis.
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The biggest problem was about :
- Power : a Nexus 7 tablet will not boot, or behave strangely if battery is over discharged. This is a real problem because you have to take care of battery deep-sleep when not in car, remove battery heater apps that will prevent to sleep (frequent with GPS apps). To resume, having a battery in the Nexus 7 in car install raise a lot of complication.
- Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Everythink work perfectly now. The only two small side-effect are :
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
Total cost for this project are
- 15 dollar for 12V->3.7V converter on ebay
- 130 dollar for a 16G Nexus 7 on ebay
- 120 dollar for a genuine toyota navigation dash mount extracted from an broken avensis that had toyota GPS.
- Some dollar for adhesive, cigarette lighter plug, etc...
Here is some photo. I will add photo from inside if someone is interested (maybe not for a Toyota).
The main interest is to share for my Power problems
(sorry for my french-english)
My avensis before nexus 7 install
ebay - 12V to 3.7V DC Converter
ebay - Genuine Toyota GPS dash part
Final mount
Battery Wires
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
this is really cool
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
edwin108 said:
Which battery wires did you connect the DC-DC converter to? I see the connector has 2 red and 2 black wires.
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
On the Nexus 7 :
- I cut the small battery connector keeping the longest cable possible (so i have say bye bye to the battery !)
- I have connected
> the 2 red cable of the nexus 7 connector to the red DC-DC output
> the 2 black cable of the nexus 7 connector the the yellow DC-DC output
> I cut the yellow and white (the 2 remaining) cables of the nexus 7 connector. Those 2 cable role is to let the nexus 7 know about the temperature and battery status. Not anymore useful as no more battery.
---------- Post added at 09:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:17 PM ----------
nicholi2789 said:
That is amazing. It turned out very professional looking and clean. May I ask how long it took you to get everything just right? i.e. months, weeks, ect. Very very impressive work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks. After 3 month, everything work perfectly. It took me about 1 month before i was able to find the best balance.
I unmount Toyota dashboard about 4 times (bad wire, with battery / without battery, etc...)
I really stressed the Nexus 7 and i can say it's really robust !
I am not worried anymore of battery explosion. I wait 45 seconds before tablet is ready to work.
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
I wonder if I can do something like that on my car... And how to make it pleasing.
Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
looks great very well done
@iiolivier Wow man - that's awesome. I have toyota avensis 2003 with GPS included. And I already have Nexus 7 2012.
I will definitely try this.
Can you provide any link for this dc adapter, please? I'm not well-known with electric, wires and etc. (maybe PM to me will be great). Thanks in advance!!!
Cheers from Bulgaria!
iiolivier said:
B]Risk and security to have an Li-ion battery in the top of my dashboard[/B] (danger with high temp and direct sun exposition) : Even in north of France, direct sunlight can raise very very high temperature at the top of the dash. So i was very worried to have a lithium battery. For my safety. I was afraid to find my car burned. It can arrive. I think it's really not a good thing when i see other in-dash mount that keep battery inside the nexus.
So, i decided to remove completely the Li-Ion Battery, and power the tablet directly from a 12V->3.7V DC converter, connected to my cigarette lighter.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I've had my Nexus 7 installed in my truck last year, but am concerned because I live in Arizona and it's starting to get hot. So there are no issues removingthe bbattery and running the Nexus 7 directly off power? What if I'm currently plugged in from microusb port of tablet to a cigarette lighter charger? this is all hidden behind the dash. Will it still receive power this way?
Bawb3 said:
Nice install! I'm going this route with mine.
Are you using Timur's Rom/Kernel?
How did you set it up to power on with the car without having access to the power button on the N7?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'll try to find it as I did this mod last year and didn't save the url. There is a bootloader adb mod where you can set the Nexus 7 to boot by itself when it receives AC power. I have it set up to boot when key turns ignition and power off after 1 minute without power, using Tasker.
Edit, here's the adb command to have the tablet power on when it receives AC power
there is a Fastboot command that you can issue to the bootloader to make the tablet power on once plugged it.* “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 0” makes the unit power on the instant its connected to AC. “fastboot oem off-mode-charge 1” returns to normal state,* so fitting an external switch isn’t 100% necessary, but i decided i wanted one anyway. I’m using Tasker to switch the unit on and off* with the ignition, but having the external switch is a handy addition.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
you could connect your 3.7v adapter to a constant 12v line and then connect your usb OTG power adapter to a switched 12v line. Then use tasker to detect when the 12v switched goes dead and 'hibernate' the tablet. Then the tablet would run in low power mode off of the car battery untill you turn the car back on. No waiting for the tablet to boot that way and you would keep your time/date.
Great idea about the 3.7v adapter though. I'm stealing that one so I don't need a LiIon battery in the tablet at all.
-J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Were you replyingto me? II'm not well versed in electrical tinkering. What would I have to do to take the battery out of my tablet, if you don't mind explaining. Currently the tablet is receiving power through a cigarette lighter adapter hard wired behind the dash. When it receives power it boots the tablet, when power is off Tasker shuts down the tablet after 1 min. I'd like to take the battery out because of extreme temperatures here.
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
movy said:
Can you tell me how did you install the nexus 7 inside the toyota navigation dash mount ? It's not to biger ? Do you have any pictures from inside the unit with the system mounted where I cand see how you mounted (fixed) the tablet inside? I wont to do the same thing, but my problem is that Nexus 7 (2012) has this dimensions: 198.5 x 120 and do not fit inside. The inside dimensions are maximum 180 x 110. Please help with some pictures. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm in the process of upgrading from the 2012 N7 (which I just sold) to the 2013. I wanted to fill in the gaps on either side of the tablet in the dash because it was bothering me. Here's what I did.
I dremeled the sides of my dash and a bit behind it to accommodate the tablet. You may need to do a little dremeling/sanding to accommodate yours. I then built a 3 sided wooden box that serves as a double DIN dummy to mount the N7 too. The dimensions are:
Front face: 7"
Sides: 5 1/2"
Top and bottom: 5 1/2"
As you can see in the pictures, I cut out a portion of the sides and bottom so it could wrap around the single DIN radio that's behind the N7 in the dash. The box wouldn't have fit for me otherwise, but for you, at least leave the back open so you can put cables and stuff inside.
I left the side mounts that the old radio bolted to in the truck, so basically the box slides in and is held in place just by the pressure from the sides of the mounts and the front when the dash is put back on.
On the wooden box I put two strips of double sided sticky tape. I chose the heavy duty 5lbs, but it's a little more than what's needed and makes adjusting a pain. Just use the cheaper 2 lb strength tape.
On the front of the box, attached to the sticky tape, I mounted a hard plastic snap on case/shell for the tablet (only thing not pictured). The tablet snaps into the case and is subsequently held on the box. You can just take the tablet out of the case if you need to remove it. That way, you're not affixing the actual tablet to the box.
Finally, I had spaces on either side of the tablet (the dash was a bit wider than the tablet itself). I lived with it for a year, but it was ugly and I finally decided to do something about it. I bought standard double DIN trim for a radio, dremeled, sanded, and cut it so it fits, and taped it to the sides of the tablet (pictured). Now, there won't be any spaces, and it looks like it's actually a factory install.
Hope this helps.
I want to know how he mount Nexus 7 in Avensis T25 dash navigation. This is a picture of 2 way to install: the whole tablet (in first case) or only the lcd touch screen in original frame of navigation. For example this is how it fit a GPS Lexand (Russian) inside the unit. The dimensions of the gps-tablet in this case are max 180*110 mm to fit in. And olso, the dimension of lcd (of image) are max 155*90 mm to fit in (la lcd of 7") . This is my problem in finding a tablet with this exterior size and with this lcd size.
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
Mugga said:
Hy guys,
today I also tried to remove my Nexus battery to power it directly. Sadly it isn't working!
The screen is flickering one time, after I hit the power button. Does someone know what could be the issue?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
miatawnt2b said:
can you take a pic of how you hooked it up?
50,000 foot howto:
You will need a 12v to 3.7v converter. take the + and - 3.7v wires and attach them to the red/black wires of the battery plug. If you don't want to cut the plug off the battery you can solder directly to the board where the connector is attached. There are an additional two wires off of the battery plug I believe they are white/yellow. I think these are temp sensors. You should be able to leave them unattached, but I haven't played with it yet. You may need to bridge them with a small resistor.
-J
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Haven't got any pics, but i hooked them up directly without the battery. The two red lines with the plus line, and the black ones with ground.
I tried it with my car dc-dc converter. I can program the voltage down to 4,2V. I also measured the voltage directly at the nexus pcb, and it says 4,15-4,2V. I tried it with different voltage levels, up to 5v. When the voltage is too low, I just get one flickering. With a little bit more, I get something like a grey screen. And with round about 5v, I get the Nexus startup screen for about 2 seconds, and then the screen is going black, but the backlight is still turned on.
When I attach the battery like before without any external power, everything is running smooth. I don't really see what could be the problem. The dc-dc converter is able to provide 10A.
EDIT:
Nevermind got it working!
The problem was that the wires for the testing at home where to thin, to provide enough juice (Ampere). After going with two cables for each line, the tablet was booting fine. Any way thx for the help.
iiolivier said:
- Car ignition will shut off power 2 ou 3 second, and tablet will reboot.
- 40 seconds boot time. It could be long, but i am rarely in my car for less than 2 minutes. So it's really not a problem. My Tom Tom GPS sometime take 30 seconds to be ok.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. Great post, thank you! I plan to do the same but had a few questions:
1. How is it faring over long term use? I imagine the 12V from a car battery is pretty 'noisy' so my concern is with device longevity.
2. Does the N7 2013 model work with 3.7V as well, or does it need a different voltage?
3. Are you able to hook up USB devices using an OTG cable without the battery?
My ideal solution would be to hook the N7 battery connectors to an 'always on' power line and the micro-USB connectors to a switched power line. This way I can use Tasker to hibernate/shut-down the N7 when the car is turned off. A trickle charge after hibernation/shutdown probably won't drain out my car battery too soon. I'm not so much concerned about start-up time (though a quicker startup through hibernation would be a bonus), but rather the concern that repeatedly shutting off power to the tablet abruptly (without giving it a chance to shutdown) probably wouldn't be good for it.
Obviously the assumption here is that the N7 uses voltage detection at the micro-usb connection to determine if power is incoming to the battery. I'll need to test this out. But I want to know if OTG even works (I need it for backup cam) before I tear down my N7 and start poking around with a multimeter.
question
Hi guys. After few long weeks I finally managed to put my nexus 7 in.
Everything works pretty much ok but I was a bit worried about the battery so I bought a power supply buck module, which proved to be a beast . Provides my continuous 3.7V, having the battery removed without any problem AT ALL.
I would like to know if someone tried something similar because I am a bit concerned about the power consumption. Is it ok to leave it on all the time, or not ? Please advice.

Supercharge problem after display replacement

Hello forum, this is my first post, so i hope everthing is correct.
Unfortunately my P10 fell down and got a (slightly) cracked frontglass. So i have decided to replace the screen. Everthing went well (except that the new screen is not original, frame color is a bit more cool white, but overall good quality).
Now I face the problem that the (super)charger doesn't work properly anymore. First i have noticed that i dont get that "fast/supercharging" message in lockscreen. Its more like "normal charging" (my phone is set to german - so I am not sure what the right terms are). So I used another original Supercharger, original Cable, old micro-usb cable with usb-c adapter, samsung 2A charger and the app "ampere". The result with all combinations is the same: maximum 900mA charging speed. Seens realistic, bescause phone takes around 3h to get to 100%. "ampere" displays good battery conditions and temperature.
Does somebody know which conditions need to be met to activate fast/supercharging?
Here are my thoughts:
-damaged usb connector (needed a lot of force to get out the display/mainboard unit out of metal back - tried it on this point. not the best idea overall)
-damaged battery (shortening, physical damage because clue was super hard to remove)
-damaged ribbon cables
-software issues(new display, disconnected battery)
-battery calibration due to full disconnecting
Which workaround would you recommend?
By the way, I have flashed my device (monhts ago) from vtr-l09 to vtr-l29 to active dual sim function, i am not sure if this will be a problem if i need a reset.
Thx in advance..
-damaged usb connector (needed a lot of force to get out the display/mainboard unit out of metal back - tried it on this point. not the best idea overall)
-damaged battery (shortening, physical damage because clue was super hard to remove)
there are you answers.

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