Database Develop

Wi-Fi and WPA secured wireless networks.

Hello to all diamond people,
We all know, there is huge issue with this great phone about Wi-Fi connections. While Wi-Fi is one of the reasons people choosed touch diamond, what is their disapointment when they find out wi-fi doesn't work as it should.
I am talking about problem I am experiencing by myself - I am unable to connect to my home WPA secured and encrypted network. If I turn the security off on my router and wireless network becomes open, there is no problem at all.
But who wants unsecured, open wireless network at home, so all the neighbours can download whatever they want through your network?
Nobody.
During my research throughout forums I have come accross many people, experiencing same problem, but was not able to find the solution to the problem, or what is causing it.
My aim is to gather as many information as possible to help to fix this problem, so everyone could use wi-fi on their own home WPA secured wireless network.
Any ideas?

What is your ROM and radio versions? I've no problem connecting to my WPA enabled network. Which WPA option did you choose? It must match the same WPA option on your router. There are WPA, WPA-PSK, WPA2, and WPA2-PSK, then there are also TKIP and AES to choose from. Try setting both Diamond and router to use WPA-PSK (TKIP) first, this should have the highest compatibility with other WPA supported devices on your network. And make sure you use a strong passphrase, you can use a WPA key generator.

Hey,
both router and HTC are set to WPA -PSK under TKIP encryption. I use my own network key.
The thing is, in wireless lan manager i can see htc does connect, but only for about a second, then it starts reconnecting all over again.
Sometimes it does connect and works for few minutes and sometimes it does connect to router, but not to the internet. It drives me absolutely mad.
I tried Advanced Config -> Network -> WPA authentication - enabled/disabled, but still experiencing problems.
I have heard there used to be issues with ROMs provided by the network operators, but that is not my case.
ROM: DIB Diamond v 1.33
RADIO: 1.00.25.05

WPA secured
Hey,
If You want to use WPA secured wireless networks with Diamond go to Settings-Wireless LAN-Power Mode and there set Power Save Mode to Best Performance. It works
Sorry for my English...

6sauer said:
Hey,
both router and HTC are set to WPA -PSK under TKIP encryption. I use my own network key.
The thing is, in wireless lan manager i can see htc does connect, but only for about a second, then it starts reconnecting all over again.
Sometimes it does connect and works for few minutes and sometimes it does connect to router, but not to the internet. It drives me absolutely mad.
I tried Advanced Config -> Network -> WPA authentication - enabled/disabled, but still experiencing problems.
I have heard there used to be issues with ROMs provided by the network operators, but that is not my case.
ROM: DIB Diamond v 1.33
RADIO: 1.00.25.05
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I guess it's probably not your ROM, since the DIB Diamond v1.33 is based on the newer 2.03 ROM. I was wondering, do other devices on your network have the same issue or it's only the Diamond? Connection dropping can be many reasons, and one of them is the router itself.
Reddish said:
Hey,
If You want to use WPA secured wireless networks with Diamond go to Settings-Wireless LAN-Power Mode and there set Power Save Mode to Best Performance. It works
Sorry for my English...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have any problem even in Power Save mode.

Somewhere I have come accross the information some routers (particullary Belkins) do have problem with windows mobile devices.
Today I wrote to Belkin Support, thay should reply in 72 hours mad, however we may know more.
Since I am using unsecured wireless network now, at least I have activated the MAC addresses lock - only allowed MAC addresses can connect to router now. What do you think, how secure is that? There is no encryption now, could someone see the sommunication between me and the router?

Which Belkin router are you using? Check if there is a firmware update, you may want to try that.
MAC address filtering should be ok for now, it can stop the majority of people who try to use your network, it will take someone with a bit more networking knowledge to gain access to your network, but most people don't have that knowledge.
Yes, people can capture any unencrypted packets and read them. But if you're connecting to a secure website through HTTPS or any other secure protocols, the packets are still unreadable. For example, in the browser, if it's written https instead of http on the address bar, those sites are secure. Most regular websites are not secure though.

I was having a similar problem on my Touch Pro a while back. My router is also set to WPA-PSK/TKIP. Although you said you tried it, the solution for me was indeed to go into Advanced Config > Network > WPA Authentication > Disabled. I then removed all previous wifi settings and then added them again, and it connected without a problem.
It could be that there's something else preventing your connection, but from what I can tell you should at least have that setting disabled.

6sauer said:
Somewhere I have come accross the information some routers (particullary Belkins) do have problem with windows mobile devices.
Today I wrote to Belkin Support, thay should reply in 72 hours mad, however we may know more.
Since I am using unsecured wireless network now, at least I have activated the MAC addresses lock - only allowed MAC addresses can connect to router now. What do you think, how secure is that? There is no encryption now, could someone see the sommunication between me and the router?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
its pretty secure, as you cant guess the password, you would have to get in and add your device to the list (which you would need the username and password for)

Dummies' Guide to Diagnosing Intermittent Wifi on NC - fixed in BN1.3

This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
Edit: problem may be BN NC. See last paragraph
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Intermittent Wifi Connection:
This is the issue where your Nook connects to Wifi and then after a few minutes the connection goes away. Typically the NC shows wifi as connected or perhaps connected and testing.
There are five variables that can cause intermittent wifi connections:
-your router
-wifi type 802.11b/g/n
-encrytpion
-wifi frequency 2.4ghz/5ghz
-NC ROM
-NC operating system
In many cases, this is due to 802.11n wifi. A digression: Wifi comes in manner flavors; 802.11b, the first standard; 802.11g, the second; 802.11n the latest standard. These flavors have to do with the physical wireless router.
In addition to the hardware, there are variations in encryption of the wifi signal: WEP, WPA, WPA2 with AES or TKIP. WPA2 with AES is the most secure. Look it up on Wiki for more details. And of course the
OS the NC is running.
In many cases, the NC will NOT connect reliably with 802.11n. I have a Dlink DIR-615 V2 wireless router and when set to 802.11n with WPA2 with AES, the NC connects but after a few minutes goes into a state of "testing connection". Setting the router to 802.11g only fixes the problem. An easy test is to go into Youtube and watch a long video. Most likely, half way through, you will loose the connection.
At work, we have a high end multi-access point Meru networking running unencrypted wifi 802.11n and I have this problem. So this may indicate a driver problem with the NC.
The Fix:
Go into your router's wireless. Select manual setup and find 802.11 mode or something to that effect. On my router, I have a choice of "mixed 802.11n, g, b", "802.11n only", "802.11g" only. Selecting 802.11g only with WPA2/AES fixes it for me.
Interestingly the NETGEAR WNR3500L-100NAS 802.11b/g/n seem to operate reliablely with the NC using 802.11n.
One post indicates that settting encryption to TKIP also fixes the problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...72&postcount=6
However, using TKIP opens up a hole for hackers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempora...grity_Protocol
One solution on the nookboards and BN forum also suggested turning off 802.11n
http://www.nookboards.com/forum/index.php?topic=5669.0
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...-Problem-quot/m-p/770856/highlight/true#M3295
If you are having problems, the following information will help in diagnosing the problem:
Router brand and model number: eg: Dlink DIR-615
802.11 mode: b, g, n?
SSID visible?
Encryption: no or if yes: WEP, WPA, WPA2 TKIP/AES\
NC Rom: 1.0.1 or 1.1
NC OS:
I will try to update this guide periodically. Moderators: feel free to delete this thread if it is redundant.
Edit:
BN has acknowledged there is a problem with certain routers. From my own experience, there are many more routers that are incompatible with the NC. My assessment is that it's a driver in the BN. I have a Gtablet running 2.2 with no problems.
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...ssed/m-p/1030918/message-uid/1030918#U1030918
From BN Administrator: "In general, wifi issues can continue to be fixed by following the troubleshooting guides posted in the FAQ and in other posts. We *are* continuing to investigate reported wifi issues with certain routers that have had issues reported. At this point, we’ve investigated the Belkin F5D8231-4 and found an issue introduced with Android 2.2. We have a fix that will be included in the next release, but do not have a workaround for users. We are also investigating other routers (including the DLink DL- 624 and Westell 327W), but do not currently have a fix for them.
Please continue to post here if you encounter further problems and NOOK_Engineer and I will work together to investigate further."
EDIT 9/7/2011: After I updated to BN1.3 and then rooted with, wifi connects perfectly with 802.11n both at home and work. Work wifi consists of multi-point 802.11n. Note that this is with Dalingren's froyo 9/1/11 kernel with the BN 1.3 source drop.

Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.

Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.

I like the idea of putting it all together as it took me awhile to figure it out.
FYI, my wireless modem is:
D-Link DIR-655
On WPA/WPA2 TKIP
Interestingly, I made a setting change to set the wireless mode to only n & g modes. This stopped my nook from getting any wireless till I changed back to n,g & b. Not exactly sure what this means other than it could a router specific issue but good to keep the info in one place considering it is hard to track.

necroscopev said:
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure of this but if it works with Rooted 1.1 but not Froyo 0.6.6, most likely a Froyo issue.

bonobomidwest said:
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi chip in the NC WL1271 supports only 2.4ghz. Interestingly the kernel reports the chip as WL1273 which does support 5ghz.

I don't think the original post regarding 802.11n being an issue is correct. We have two access points running 802.11n and have no issues with the Nook Color. I have them set up to operate 802.11n at 2.5 and 5 Ghz. I connect the NC to the 2.4 GHZ radio and use the 5 GHz for my laptops. I am using a Netgear WNDR 3700s.

@jerrykur - Well that explains that. I'm trying to sprint up the learning curve as fast as i can with this wonderful device... sometimes i miss things ;-)
@Zhousibo - I suggest you grab "wifi analyzer" from the market. It's an invaluable tool for tweaking your network. For instance, it lets you see which bands are cluttered and clashing. In my neighborhood everybody (i.e. about 20+ networks) is on the default channels 1 or 6. I can literally watch as one network pops up above the noise and drops out again. In exactly the same spot in the house we have a several dB stronger signal if we move the network to a clear channel. Also bear in mind that the encryption and frequency are two totally different issues. I would vary one at a time and look at what wifi analyzer is telling you - my guess is that only adjusting frequency will affect signal strength and signal drop outs. I would also start with the simplest working setup and add or remove optiosn one at a time, watching what happens to the signal. Once you have that problem fixed, then worry about authentication issues (i seriously doubt this is the problem, i've tried all combinations of authentication on my router and they all work - just go for the most secure!)

BTW1: in wifi analyzer you can view signals as a graph in time which will let you see signal drop outs (i.e. let's you watch what is coming into the machine), combined with fpga_guy's suggested method (watching you tube - so following what is coming out of the other end of the software, so to speak), will let you nail down where the glitch is - in the network or in the machine. Similarly you could ahve two devices whatching the same or different youtube sources, if they both fail at teh same time it is a network or even further down the pipe (e.g. ISP) issue.
BTW2: if you are using VOIP, then QoS in your VOIP box could be responsible for a lot of this depending on how your wired network is structured.
BTW3: I should have explained my motivation behind these posts - I just have not had any problems with dropped connection on the NC (other than all the problems with waking in rooted ecalir) on either G or N networks. I can pretty much move around town from rememebred netweork to remembered network and almost always be connected. I'm actually extremely impressed with how well networking DOES work on this machine, especially in Frroyo. BUT my home network is pretty complex and very busy (media center PC, streaming to at least one device most of the time, multiple PC's wireless printer, wired NAS, etc) so has had a lot of fine tuning... So I'm doubly impressed at the lack of drop-outs given this deployment... hence my advice to eliminate network issues first.

Here is an update on my testing of the NC with various routers. My ipod touch, HP DV1000 laptop running Windows XP connects to every router listed without problems. This indicates either a chip or more likely an implementation problem with BN's driver to the TI wifi chip.
NC (ROM 1.1 with Auto-nooter 3.0.0) works with:
Netgear WNR3500L running 802.11n with DD-WRT WPA2/PSK
DLINk DIR615 runnign 802.11g with WPA2/PSK
Work wireless running 802.11g (router unknown)
NC does NOT work with
Sites with hidden SSID
DLINK DIR615 running 802.11n
Sites using WEP with 128bit encryption
NC connects on boot with sites using WEP 64b encryption - FC after resuming from sleep.

@bonobomidwest
My only thinking is that the NC wifi driver is not as robust with the settings (maybe it is settings, firmware, hardware, not sure).
Interestingly, I spent a bit of time away from my home network which is where I have had no problems since I made the original change (FYI, I recently upgraded from Autonooter 1.1, to Nook Froyo 0.6.7 to NF 0.6.8 and have been stable since the change). I stayed at my folks for a week as am living overseas and they have a Belkin router (can't remember model but I gave them this and was pretty good for it's time). I had issues where the wifi had problems connecting after the screen had timed out so did not use the NC as much as I wanted. I also had problems with the wifi on Galaxy S on this network even though I changed the settings.
I haven't done a scan where I am living now but it should be more than where my folks are due to living in an apartment as opposed to my folks house.
I'm at the stage where my network is not 'broke' so not actively looking to fix it but all my devices NC, Galaxy S, PS3, PSP, etc, are all working now - only the NC has had the most problems with connecting to wifi but have been resolved.

I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.

Any new ROMs help fix WPA2 connectivity problems?
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.

Get the right router...
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!

Or maybe the NC?
jdefgts said:
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.. no doubt the right router will work with NC. But at home and at work the NC is the only device having problems. I have no luck in convincing my company to swap out 45 routers so my NC can work

waylo said:
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar issues. I can't use the internet reliably on my Nook Color or my EVO on my home router unless I'm running WPA+TKIP. I would prefer not to have my router setup this way though because of the security concerns and it not being much harder than WEP to crack.
Guess I'll just stick with WPA2+AES and look for another solution...

just to share some experience that hapenned to me:
In France we have an Internet box (wich is basically a router) that deserve 2 wireless network. One public shared with all user from the same Internet provider and one private for home.
At first my nook only saw the public one (wich is not really fast). The private one was not visible (or just flash in network tools on nook).
After some investigation i change the Wifi canal (from 10 to "automatic"). After that, no to see it and connect (if you forget the nook "special sleep policy")

soobaerodude said:
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.

soobaerodude said:
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give an update after you exchange your NC. I suspect is the wifi chip drivers and not a bad NC.

fpga_guy said:
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont experience any of these problems where ever i go
i have been able to connect into every coffee shop, book store, and school campus(i go to 3 different schools) plus i can hold a wifi connection at home
ill give you my router settings because it may have something to do with it
Router brand and model number: eg: NETGEAR : unknown
802.11 mode: b,g ,n
SSID visible: yes
Encryption: no or if yes: yes WPA2
NC Rom: HC preview 4
NC OS: 3.0
and my droid x works as well with the WPA/WPA2 security

My Razr i makes WiFi drop/crash

Hi folks !
Recently I started to experience some troubles using my WiFis connections. The problem is simple, the connection drops, the WiFi network disappears from all the devices, and a few seconds later it comes back.
At first I thought it was a problem with the router of my work. But then I started to experience the same things at home. Then I decided to test the WiFi without connecting my Razr i to it and it worked like a charm. Now, as soon as I connect my Razr i to a WiFi, it crashes a few seconds/minutes later and keep doing it until I disconnect my phone from the WiFi.
Did someone experience the same thing ? Have you any idea for solving the problem ?
Thanks anyway.
PS : I only use 5Ghz WiFis. I'll try with 2.4 soon but the 5Ghz compatibility was one of the reasons why I bought this phone...

We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.

Tevac said:
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well ! Thanks for the reply.
My router that provides the two WiFis is a Cisco Linksys WRT61N.
My setup is kinda complex but works well. Got another router provided by my ISP, which is the DHCP server. This router is connected to a port of the WRT61N switch. Not to the internet port. Every connection that enters in the ISP router goes to the Linksys, and then is NATed by it. I don't think those informations are very relevant but anyway here they are. That's a complex setup but it works well (needed to do that because I have cable connection, and the cable modem/router have very limited configuration).
The devices that use my two WiFi are :
2.4Ghz : My Razr i right now.
5Ghz : Two iPads, and the HTC 8X of my girlfriend.
I made some other tests, one the Razr i there is an option for switching on or off a kind of network frequency. So instead of both enabled, I enabled only the 2.4Ghz WiFi frequency and connected my phone to my 2.4Ghz WiFi. No problems detected. Stable connection. Right now I'm at work, and everything works well in 2.4Ghz. So there is clearly a problem with the 5Ghz frequency on my Razr i.
Anyway, during those tests, I discovered something very interesting. My battery life had a huge improvement with the desactivation of the 5Ghz WiFi frequency.

Thanks for the details - especially on the 2.4/5 GHz topic.
I am also at work right now, but will check it at home and keep you posted.

WPA2
I had the same problem, I think it was triggered everytime the phone went to "sleep". It was changing the security encryption that fixed it for me. I can't remember what i had on the router as default, and I'm not at home right now to check what I'm running, but I believe it's WPA2. After the change, I had no trouble whatsoever. Hope this helps, good luck!
EDIT: nevermind what i said, i just logged into my router and remembered it wasnt the encryption type settings, but rather the wifi standard used, it used to be 802.11 b+n+g, and now i got it sitting at 802.11 b+g, which equals to 2.4 GHz. Meaning the razr has apparently a problem with the 5 GHz spectrum..

I too have a RAZRi which is connected by wi-fi at home to a Fritz!Box 7390. I noticed that when the RAZRi went into sleep mode with wi-fi connected (keep wi-fi on setting) it would have lost any internet connection on waking, requiring a disconnection/reconnection to reset. More annoyingly there was also a loss of connection (IP address) at laptops also connected to the router by w-fi on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz connections, which needed a reboot of either the PC or the router to re-establish a connection. The router GUI would show them all as remaining connected.
By using the manual setting on the router to restrict 2.4GHz connections to b+g (not b+g+n), it looks so far as though both problems are avoided, and the RAZRi can be set to use either the available 2.4GHz or 5GHz (a+n) connection on the Fritz! successfully without problems. EDIT big problem is though that disabling "n" on 2.4GHz seems to cause wi-fi throughputs to crash by more than 50% on both frequencies (which for me negates the benefit of having VDSL) - they recover if I re-enable, but then the lockups start if the phone is connected. A hobsons choice.
Thanks guys.

[Q] Switching between routers within the same wifi

Hey guys, I got a problem with wifi on my One. The thing is I got a couple of wifi routers in my house (one can't cover the entire building) and they're both broadcasting the same SSID, password etc. basically one is connected via RJ45 to the other and set up exactly the same way. Problem is when I move around the house and lose connection to one of my routers and the phone automatically connects to the other all my connections on the phone stop working and I have to turn my wifi off and on again. Same thing happens when I'm at my university, each floor has 2 wifi routers on it and phone tends to jump between them screwing up the internet connection each time. I know it might not be the biggest issue in the world but still it's quite annoying especially since my old SGS didn't have this problem. My phone is not branded and of course up to date. Thanks for any advice.

theleet said:
Hey guys, I got a problem with wifi on my One. The thing is I got a couple of wifi routers in my house (one can't cover the entire building) and they're both broadcasting the same SSID, password etc. basically one is connected via RJ45 to the other and set up exactly the same way. Problem is when I move around the house and lose connection to one of my routers and the phone automatically connects to the other all my connections on the phone stop working and I have to turn my wifi off and on again. Same thing happens when I'm at my university, each floor has 2 wifi routers on it and phone tends to jump between them screwing up the internet connection each time. I know it might not be the biggest issue in the world but still it's quite annoying especially since my old SGS didn't have this problem. My phone is not branded and of course up to date. Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
From my experience after installing a lot of different wifi's in different operation modes, it all depends on how exactly the routers have been setup.
But to answer your initial question- the topic at hand; as long as the wifi's broadcasts the same SSID, you cannot choose which of the two individual routers you want to connect to. Please someone correct me if I'm wrong, but afaik this is not possible. If you want the possibility to choose, then set them up with different SSID's. This would be the _easiest_ solution, just make sure they broadcasts at different frequencies with at least 5 channels apart, i.e. channel 1 and 6, or 6 and 11, or 1 and 11. These are the most popular ones in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. If you use 5 GHz you have a lot more to choose from.
Now, if it's important that your network works seamlessly (with the same SSID), I can provide a step by step guide upon request.
But the solution to your current problem, from my experience; yes you have to turn the wifi off and then on again to "force" the wlan-card on your cell phone to -faster- connect to the closest router, otherwise it will take maybe 15-45 seconds before it does this automatically. It's basically the same with computers. This mostly happens if the wlan-card are within range of both networks, but it will try to stay connected to current one before changing.
And there are some important guidelines to follow when you connect one router to another if they are from the same brand (because of the ip-range and gateway). I once had to setup 8 wifi-routers in a house, because of the size and the thick concrete walls (same SSID)...

The problem is my laptops and other phones don't seem to have this problem, also the phone doesn't 'fix' itself after 40 or so secs it just stays broken as far as I've noticed forever (or at least till i leave my house). Also it doesn't have a problem connecting to the other router, it loses connection, looks for available networks, finds my other router, connects and... nothing works. Exact same thing at the university, finds routers, connects with 5/5 bars and it just doesn't work.

theleet said:
The problem is my laptops and other phones don't seem to have this problem, also the phone doesn't 'fix' itself after 40 or so secs it just stays broken as far as I've noticed forever (or at least till i leave my house). Also it doesn't have a problem connecting to the other router, it loses connection, looks for available networks, finds my other router, connects and... nothing works. Exact same thing at the university, finds routers, connects with 5/5 bars and it just doesn't work.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you sure you have it setup with DHCP and not some static ip-settings? Can you post some screenshots of your wifi-settings?
If you haven't tried already, get your phone to "forget" it's settings so you have to reenter the password and make sure it's set to DHCP. But first take out the power from both your routers so they get a reboot, and make sure the ethernetcable is connected from one of the LAN ports on the main router connected to the internet (from your cable/dsl/fiber-modem), and in to the WAN/Internet port on the secondary router. Btw what routers do you use as master and slave?

Yes of course I have the routers set up just like you say And yes I'm using DHCP on both of them. They are Airlive 1600GL with tomato rom as main and WR740N as secondary. I took screenshots of what seemed relevant sorry the main router's settings are not in English but it seems that would require me to reflash it with a different rom.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-22-28.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-24-00.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-24-28.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Untitled.jpg

theleet said:
Yes of course I have the routers set up just like you say And yes I'm using DHCP on both of them. They are Airlive 1600GL with tomato rom as main and WR740N as secondary. I took screenshots of what seemed relevant sorry the main router's settings are not in English but it seems that would require me to reflash it with a different rom.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-22-28.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-24-00.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Screenshot_2013-12-20-23-24-28.png
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2668574/HTC One/Untitled.jpg
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What's with the DNS being 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4?

Seraphicus said:
What's with the DNS being 8.8.8.8 and 8.8.4.4?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
These are Google DNS.

I would do it simple and solve it by changing the SSID on the slave router to something different, like wireless2, and change channel to 1. Or change the channel on the master router from 8 to 11. Your phone will probably change from one network to another faster this way, or it's at least easier for you to manually choose.
If that doesn't help, and the network is 100% problemfree for other wireless devices, I guess it must be a firmware or hardware problem with your One's wlan-card. Most likely firmware.

I will try it in the morning but still I'm pretty confident it's not the matter of setting up my home network but rather One's software bug. I can't say with 100% certainty right now but I don't remember having this issue before the update to the newest Android version.

Both routers need to be on the same subnet, enable dhcp server on one and disable it on the second one. Also set the second one as an access point only with a static ip in the same subnet.
The problem you have now is that wireless clients must negotiate a new ip when switching routers because of different subnets assigned to each.
Let me know if you need more details.

But still that would fix the problem at my home, what about when I'm somewhere else?

What ROM are you running? I leave wifi enabled all the time and haven't had any issues moving between networks, it automatically connects when another network is in range.

Android 4.3 with Sense 5.5 all stock not even rooted.

Since your completely stock it should just work. I'd try fixing the home network first and see if that solves the issue at home, then move on to trying to figure out the network issue at school.
Router1 - master
Internet connected to wan port
Cable from lan port to a lan port on router2
Dhcp: enabled with an ip range of 192.168.1.100 and up
Lan ip 192.168.1.1
Channel 1
Router2 - slave
Nothing connected to wan port
Cable from Router1 lan port to lan port on this router
Dhcp: disabled
Lan ip 192.168.1.2
Channel 11
Set ssid and wpa settings the same on both routers.
With this setup clients can hop from one access point to the other without a dhcp request or ip change, should switch within seconds.

cschmitt said:
Since your completely stock it should just work. I'd try fixing the home network first and see if that solves the issue at home, then move on to trying to figure out the network issue at school.
Router1 - master
Internet connected to wan port
Cable from lan port to a lan port on router2
Dhcp: enabled with an ip range of 192.168.1.100 and up
Lan ip 192.168.1.1
Channel 1
Router2 - slave
Nothing connected to wan port
Cable from Router1 lan port to lan port on this router
Dhcp: disabled
Lan ip 192.168.1.2
Channel 11
Set ssid and wpa settings the same on both routers.
With this setup clients can hop from one access point to the other without a dhcp request or ip change, should switch within seconds.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried that setup for many times over the years I've worked with routers, from my experience that is unstable.

ChromeCast with RT-AC66U running Merlin Firmware

In order to get my Chromecast working with the latest Merlin flash I had to Enable the following on the "LAN / IPTV" page of Merlin firmware:
"Enable efficient multicast forwarding (IGMP Snooping)"
(If you're not familiar with Merlin version of the firmware for this router - it is essentially like the Asus firmware with some goodies / upgrades tacked on and fixes applied.)
I DID NOT enable IGMP Snooping settings in the 2.4ghz "Wireless / Professional" tab if anyone was wondering about that setting. I have limited knowledge of what these settings actually do and was just troubleshooting via trial and error.
I did a REBOOT through the router interface after setting the enabled setting in LAN / IPTV mentioned above.
Just to let you guys know as I didn't see anyone completely address it here and I was really struggling with getting my Chromecast set up on a new flash until I found this particular setting change.
I am running a pair of RT-AC66U's. (I keep one off-line that I play around with flashing Merlin and/or DD-WRT firmware and put on-line for testing purposes if something goes wrong with a flash or setting).
My version of Merlin is the latest Beta I could download at:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/bkfq2a6aebq68//Asuswrt-Merlin#lt9d2blv8a9uh
I am using "Firmware:3.0.0.4.374.36_beta1 (Merlin build)" according to my configuration page. This is the latest Beta dated 12-23-2013.
I'd be interested in finding out if anyone is using anything different with success on Chromecast with this router configuration or if this is the only configuration that works. Haven't done any network testings of any substance yet but everything seems to be running smoothly.
Pings to my internal LAN server seem to be tight anywhere from about 1-5msec.

I run rt-n66u's and haven't had any issues but I am also not running the latest merlin.
Thanks for the post so after I upgrade if I am having issues I know what to try first.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.

ChromeCast and Merlin firmware
Warjcowski said:
I'm running the latest Merlin and have no issues with my cc. I haven't tweaked many if any of the router settings.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
My setup was working for a while - but after about a week or so, the setup above seemed to totally dog out my Internet connection and it was definitely something in the router as I was getting 30+ mbps download and 10-20 mbps upload which is consistent with what my ISP says they are providing to me. (Tested by hooking up my Ubuntu laptop directly to the cable modem.)
I literally couldn't run Chromecast with Netflix. Not sure why the router got so bogged down after a few weeks. So I hooked up the standard Asus firmware - this worked fine for providing Internet access at fully subscribed speeds - but now the Chromecast won't work with the most recent firmware that Asus has for the RT-AC66U. Tried IGMP snooping and it doesn't seem to matter.
I see there is a third Beta revision of the Merlin firmware - presently. I'm going to try that version on my backup version of this router and see if that presents any problem or not with the Chromecast.
Wish there was a good troubleshooting guide for CC and this router. So many settings and very little information as to what works and what doesn't when using CC with the RT-AC66U router.

Haven't had my chromecast working for months with this router now. Kind of given up. Actually not sure how I even got it set up the first time.
Must have been sheer blind luck.
A lot easier just to hook up the laptop with display port or HDMI connection and stream to the TV.

Somewhat related but I have the N66U with Tomato FW and cc not connecting for some reason. Was fine on Merlin FW

I have a RT-N66U running Merlin 374.41 build. My Chromecast was working fine until a recent Chromecast update to the 16664 firmware. Unfortunately, I did upgrade the router sometime in the same timeframe, so I don't know which is the ultimate problem. Also, I checked my "efficient multicast forwarding" setting mentioned in the OP, and it was not enabled. I will try that and see if that changes anything.
To be clear, the Chromecast seems to connect to the wireless network, but it looks like the protocol traffic is getting lost since none of the other Chromecast enabled devices on the network can see the Chromecast. To fix it, I've been having to do a factory reset on the Chromecast and go through the setup procedure every time I want to use the Chromecast.

IGMP Snooping allows/tells the router to analyze the IGMP group information of packets and handle them based on that.
This allows for more-intelligent multicast packet forwarding to specific ports rather than flooding all ports.
It's very much akin to how a network switch remembers which addresses are connected to each port and sends packets destined for that address only to that port whereas a network hub will send every incoming packet to all ports, quickly flooding available bandwidth.
Quick example case - say you have two pairs of devices communicating, A->B and C->D, all on 100 Mbps (Fast Ethernet) connection.
On a switch (assuming full switching fabric), A's traffic to B will only go to the port B is on. The same is true for C's traffic to D.
Thus, A->B traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth and C->D traffic will have full 100 Mbps bandwidth (minus overhead, of course).
On a hub, A's traffic to B will still "clog the pipe" on all ports, the same with C's traffic to D.
Thus, instead of A->B having a full 100 Mbps and C->D having a full 100 Mbps, the combined traffic shares 100 Mbps.
If things are equally balanced, A->B gets 50 Mbps and C->D gets 50 Mbps, but in reality this is rarely the case.
You can also think of this like having a dynamically-created VLAN memberships for multicast traffic.
However, the potential downsides are decreased throughput and increased latency for other traffic since some processing time is required to snoop the packets. Also, if the multicast client does not properly register, or router/switch has a bug, the client might get entirely ignored and "miss" the multicast packets entirely. That's why one of the troubleshooting steps is to toggle IGMP Snooping (it's usually disabled by default, but sometimes not) to see if there is an inadvertent shunning going on.

Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.

troycarpenter said:
Ok, it looks like I needed to turn TKIP back on for the 2.4GHz network. Once I switched to AES+TKIP, the Chomecast shows up again on my mobile devices.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Interesting situation. I run AES-only but I've seen router "quirks" like this in the past.
On some old routers I had "creeping" configuration issues where after repeated configuration changes the router would eventually lose its mind and I had to reset the configuration and apply settings by hand again. Sometimes in the "lost its mind" configuration it would do very strange things.
Now would be a good time to back up your router configuration, just in case you have an issue like I had in the past.

I have a chromecast running with rt-ac66u router with dd-wrt. if I forget which atm but the chromecast had issue with either tkip or aes. I changed it to the other and it now works flawlessly.