Hi, is there anyone having this issue using wifi? My linksys wag300n reboots after few minutes of use with kaiser. Linksys customer support doesn't know how to solve the problem.
I tried changing the channel but with no result. It lasts max 5' then the router reboots and the kaiser doesn't connect anymore.
Hi
If your box reboots it is a problem with your router as it is of course a security hole that could allow a denial of service attack. Your router shouldn't reboot no matter what tries to connect to it.
The Kaiser is Wi-Fi approved and has worked with no issues wherever I have tried it, as far as I can see your router isn't, this means it probably lacks the testing and interoperability of other routers that have gone through the testing procedure to get the Wi-Fi logo.
I would check for updated firmware for your router, that may help. Often disabling security and encryption will see things play a lot better together however you don't really want to do that.
You may need to get a new router for it to work reliably
Regards
Phil
The firmware is the latest, and linksys assistance is futile, suggesting channel switching and ssid renaming...
Wireless works flawlessly with a notebook, but with kaiser lasts only few minutes, and of course is NOT kaiser's fault, infact i didn't even bother contacting HTC.
ATM i think that you're right: the only solution is getting another box.
Thanks for your reply
The linksys WAG devices are a royal pain in the a.......
Switch to a better router would be my choice..... It seems unless your paying a squilian bucks for a TRUE cisco device, then Cisco stuff sucks.... However all my Cisco stuff works a treat (for the most part).
If you do go searching out a new router, and like to flash roms on more than just your phone, check out these routers at this link
http://www.dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Supported_Devices
it's a free linux-based system that you can flash on various routers that adds tons of functionality to the device. i have the standard install of dd-wrt on a wrt54g v2 linksys router, and it works flawlessly.
Hello
My N1 can connect easily to all kind of wifi routers and modems without problem but not with my fitness club's one, they have a Linksys N160.
My N1 can detect the signal,enter the password but then it's stucked with the message ''getting ip...''
Where is the problem? is it a know hardware or software compatibility stuff?
Sometimes rebooting the wifi router helps. Also make sure that when the guy over at your fitness club reboots the router you don't have the wifi of the club saved. delete the saved wifi profile, reboot the wifi router and then try. Cheers.
Already tried it several times. I saw that OS4 of iphone/ipod have the same problem with router enabling Wireless-N, I will ask him to limit the router to B/G
I also had similar problem with Linksys WAG54G2 (at latest firmware). Then I changed to much cheaper adsl router, TP-LINK WD-W8960N and no more connection problem.
Sent from my Nexus One using XDA App
I had problems using my Nexus One on my SMC Barricade 802.11b/g/n router when 802.11n was enabled. Turned it off; problems were gone. I don't think that works well yet, though some people have said otherwise. Could be a router-specific issue.
Ok so it's a WAG160N to be specific.
He tried to use mixed B/G instead of mixed (which would imply N too) but it still stuck at getting ip...
I told him to throw this router in the garbage because anyway SE and HP mobiles can't connect too,but he said he would do it but his boss will never accept to pay a penny more
My parents had a router that did exactly the same, my phone got stuck on Obtaining IP, whilst the missus 5800 connected and broswed just fine.
It was a crappy old thing and they replaced it the other week, now I can connect and browse just fine.
I also use a linksys WAG160N.
bought a nexus one, could not for the life of me get an internet connection.
turns out dns on router is poofed, so i just set DNS from my isp manually on the nexus one together with a static ip and booya interent at full 802.11n speeds.
sometimes its the simple things.
This sounds similar to when I set my router to channel 13 or whatever the max was on it. My N1 would only sometimes get a connection, but would eventually drop it and stay off. Solved it by selecting a lower channel (WifiAnalyzer suggesten channel 1 as the best alternative to channel max) on the AP.
I can see that in CM6 nightly that I have since started using I can choose regulatory domain, and thereby open up channels previously blocked. If you can't change anything on the AP this might help you solve the problem on your end.
So suggestions if none of the posts above me provide a solution is to run WifiAnalyzer and see how the channel-graph looks.
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
Edit: problem may be BN NC. See last paragraph
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Intermittent Wifi Connection:
This is the issue where your Nook connects to Wifi and then after a few minutes the connection goes away. Typically the NC shows wifi as connected or perhaps connected and testing.
There are five variables that can cause intermittent wifi connections:
-your router
-wifi type 802.11b/g/n
-encrytpion
-wifi frequency 2.4ghz/5ghz
-NC ROM
-NC operating system
In many cases, this is due to 802.11n wifi. A digression: Wifi comes in manner flavors; 802.11b, the first standard; 802.11g, the second; 802.11n the latest standard. These flavors have to do with the physical wireless router.
In addition to the hardware, there are variations in encryption of the wifi signal: WEP, WPA, WPA2 with AES or TKIP. WPA2 with AES is the most secure. Look it up on Wiki for more details. And of course the
OS the NC is running.
In many cases, the NC will NOT connect reliably with 802.11n. I have a Dlink DIR-615 V2 wireless router and when set to 802.11n with WPA2 with AES, the NC connects but after a few minutes goes into a state of "testing connection". Setting the router to 802.11g only fixes the problem. An easy test is to go into Youtube and watch a long video. Most likely, half way through, you will loose the connection.
At work, we have a high end multi-access point Meru networking running unencrypted wifi 802.11n and I have this problem. So this may indicate a driver problem with the NC.
The Fix:
Go into your router's wireless. Select manual setup and find 802.11 mode or something to that effect. On my router, I have a choice of "mixed 802.11n, g, b", "802.11n only", "802.11g" only. Selecting 802.11g only with WPA2/AES fixes it for me.
Interestingly the NETGEAR WNR3500L-100NAS 802.11b/g/n seem to operate reliablely with the NC using 802.11n.
One post indicates that settting encryption to TKIP also fixes the problem.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/show...72&postcount=6
However, using TKIP opens up a hole for hackers
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempora...grity_Protocol
One solution on the nookboards and BN forum also suggested turning off 802.11n
http://www.nookboards.com/forum/index.php?topic=5669.0
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...-Problem-quot/m-p/770856/highlight/true#M3295
If you are having problems, the following information will help in diagnosing the problem:
Router brand and model number: eg: Dlink DIR-615
802.11 mode: b, g, n?
SSID visible?
Encryption: no or if yes: WEP, WPA, WPA2 TKIP/AES\
NC Rom: 1.0.1 or 1.1
NC OS:
I will try to update this guide periodically. Moderators: feel free to delete this thread if it is redundant.
Edit:
BN has acknowledged there is a problem with certain routers. From my own experience, there are many more routers that are incompatible with the NC. My assessment is that it's a driver in the BN. I have a Gtablet running 2.2 with no problems.
http://bookclubs.barnesandnoble.com...ssed/m-p/1030918/message-uid/1030918#U1030918
From BN Administrator: "In general, wifi issues can continue to be fixed by following the troubleshooting guides posted in the FAQ and in other posts. We *are* continuing to investigate reported wifi issues with certain routers that have had issues reported. At this point, we’ve investigated the Belkin F5D8231-4 and found an issue introduced with Android 2.2. We have a fix that will be included in the next release, but do not have a workaround for users. We are also investigating other routers (including the DLink DL- 624 and Westell 327W), but do not currently have a fix for them.
Please continue to post here if you encounter further problems and NOOK_Engineer and I will work together to investigate further."
EDIT 9/7/2011: After I updated to BN1.3 and then rooted with, wifi connects perfectly with 802.11n both at home and work. Work wifi consists of multi-point 802.11n. Note that this is with Dalingren's froyo 9/1/11 kernel with the BN 1.3 source drop.
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
I like the idea of putting it all together as it took me awhile to figure it out.
FYI, my wireless modem is:
D-Link DIR-655
On WPA/WPA2 TKIP
Interestingly, I made a setting change to set the wireless mode to only n & g modes. This stopped my nook from getting any wireless till I changed back to n,g & b. Not exactly sure what this means other than it could a router specific issue but good to keep the info in one place considering it is hard to track.
necroscopev said:
Thanks for this! Do you have any ideas about intermittent wifi ONLY when on an Adhoc network from my Droid? I had no wifi issues under Rooted 1.1 but when i went to internal Froyo 0.6.6 it is almost unusable. I have upgraded to 0.6.8 and it is still not working correctly, it keeps loosing the IP or pausing the connection.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure of this but if it works with Rooted 1.1 but not Froyo 0.6.6, most likely a Froyo issue.
bonobomidwest said:
Done some digging on this, and the issue is that my NC can see either the G or the N channel from my router, but not both (even with different SSID) when G is at 2.4 and N is at 5Ghz. It will only see N on 2.4 Ghz. bah.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The wifi chip in the NC WL1271 supports only 2.4ghz. Interestingly the kernel reports the chip as WL1273 which does support 5ghz.
I don't think the original post regarding 802.11n being an issue is correct. We have two access points running 802.11n and have no issues with the Nook Color. I have them set up to operate 802.11n at 2.5 and 5 Ghz. I connect the NC to the 2.4 GHZ radio and use the 5 GHz for my laptops. I am using a Netgear WNDR 3700s.
@jerrykur - Well that explains that. I'm trying to sprint up the learning curve as fast as i can with this wonderful device... sometimes i miss things ;-)
@Zhousibo - I suggest you grab "wifi analyzer" from the market. It's an invaluable tool for tweaking your network. For instance, it lets you see which bands are cluttered and clashing. In my neighborhood everybody (i.e. about 20+ networks) is on the default channels 1 or 6. I can literally watch as one network pops up above the noise and drops out again. In exactly the same spot in the house we have a several dB stronger signal if we move the network to a clear channel. Also bear in mind that the encryption and frequency are two totally different issues. I would vary one at a time and look at what wifi analyzer is telling you - my guess is that only adjusting frequency will affect signal strength and signal drop outs. I would also start with the simplest working setup and add or remove optiosn one at a time, watching what happens to the signal. Once you have that problem fixed, then worry about authentication issues (i seriously doubt this is the problem, i've tried all combinations of authentication on my router and they all work - just go for the most secure!)
BTW1: in wifi analyzer you can view signals as a graph in time which will let you see signal drop outs (i.e. let's you watch what is coming into the machine), combined with fpga_guy's suggested method (watching you tube - so following what is coming out of the other end of the software, so to speak), will let you nail down where the glitch is - in the network or in the machine. Similarly you could ahve two devices whatching the same or different youtube sources, if they both fail at teh same time it is a network or even further down the pipe (e.g. ISP) issue.
BTW2: if you are using VOIP, then QoS in your VOIP box could be responsible for a lot of this depending on how your wired network is structured.
BTW3: I should have explained my motivation behind these posts - I just have not had any problems with dropped connection on the NC (other than all the problems with waking in rooted ecalir) on either G or N networks. I can pretty much move around town from rememebred netweork to remembered network and almost always be connected. I'm actually extremely impressed with how well networking DOES work on this machine, especially in Frroyo. BUT my home network is pretty complex and very busy (media center PC, streaming to at least one device most of the time, multiple PC's wireless printer, wired NAS, etc) so has had a lot of fine tuning... So I'm doubly impressed at the lack of drop-outs given this deployment... hence my advice to eliminate network issues first.
Here is an update on my testing of the NC with various routers. My ipod touch, HP DV1000 laptop running Windows XP connects to every router listed without problems. This indicates either a chip or more likely an implementation problem with BN's driver to the TI wifi chip.
NC (ROM 1.1 with Auto-nooter 3.0.0) works with:
Netgear WNR3500L running 802.11n with DD-WRT WPA2/PSK
DLINk DIR615 runnign 802.11g with WPA2/PSK
Work wireless running 802.11g (router unknown)
NC does NOT work with
Sites with hidden SSID
DLINK DIR615 running 802.11n
Sites using WEP with 128bit encryption
NC connects on boot with sites using WEP 64b encryption - FC after resuming from sleep.
@bonobomidwest
My only thinking is that the NC wifi driver is not as robust with the settings (maybe it is settings, firmware, hardware, not sure).
Interestingly, I spent a bit of time away from my home network which is where I have had no problems since I made the original change (FYI, I recently upgraded from Autonooter 1.1, to Nook Froyo 0.6.7 to NF 0.6.8 and have been stable since the change). I stayed at my folks for a week as am living overseas and they have a Belkin router (can't remember model but I gave them this and was pretty good for it's time). I had issues where the wifi had problems connecting after the screen had timed out so did not use the NC as much as I wanted. I also had problems with the wifi on Galaxy S on this network even though I changed the settings.
I haven't done a scan where I am living now but it should be more than where my folks are due to living in an apartment as opposed to my folks house.
I'm at the stage where my network is not 'broke' so not actively looking to fix it but all my devices NC, Galaxy S, PS3, PSP, etc, are all working now - only the NC has had the most problems with connecting to wifi but have been resolved.
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Any new ROMs help fix WPA2 connectivity problems?
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Get the right router...
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Or maybe the NC?
jdefgts said:
Of course I can't speak for others, but my experience with this problem was that this problem was entirely router related. The rooted NC was very slow (to the point of almost unusable on the internet) from my home Netgear WNR834B Wireless N router, regardless of the speed settings, the channel or the security settings. I was able to experience much faster speeds (allowing UTube and Pandora to function properly) at a friend's home (generic Verizon DSL router) and at 2 public wifi locations. As a result I tried another Netgear WPN824 Wireless G Router with the same results as the other Netgear device.
Then I borrowed a couple of Linksys routers from a friend and tried them. The first, an older WRT54GS Wireless G lacking current security standards and then a WRT150N Wireless N. Both worked fine with the NC, allowing full access, with the latter operating at N mixed B, G and N speeds and WPA2 Personal security.
I am very pleased with the results after a few frustrating hours of trying to diagnose the problem. I hope this information is helpful to others. My friend and I will doing some router swapping. I may not tell him about how great the NC is!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yep.. no doubt the right router will work with NC. But at home and at work the NC is the only device having problems. I have no luck in convincing my company to swap out 45 routers so my NC can work
waylo said:
Just bought my NC and flashed a great Froyo ROM on it.
(The first one I bought had obvious hardware issues, 1bar of wifi signal in the same room as my router. Brought it back same day and had it replaced, immediately better. A known reported issue with some faulty NCs).
Had the same issues with wifi connectivity as described here and everywhere on the net. Essentially, it will connect onto the router with N speeds, but is completely unable to access any internet.
I have a great router (it can broadcast 3 separate SSIDs) but I think it doesn't play nice with the nook. So, it was great up until now =P
Router brand and model number: Buffalo WZR-HP-G300NH
802.11 mode: n
SSID visible? yes
Encryption:
SSID1: (WPA+WPA2 mixed TKIP/AES) OR (WPA+TKIP)
SSID2: WPA2+AES
SSID3: WEP (yuck)
The Nook only fully connects to the WPA+TKIP mode (on SSID1) or WEP. The supposed mixed mode setting probably isn't quite as mixed as advertised. The Nook works fine on WEP, but I hate the fact the security is so poor with WEP.
I'd have no problem dropping the SSID1 settings to WPA security, except for the loss of n speeds. Part of the 802.11n specs (has to be WPA2/AES, or NO encryption--not an option). My DVR/home network is on that ssid, so I don't want to lose my n speeds.
So my question is do any other ROMs here help fix the WPA2 connectivity? I know lots of people swear their NC works fine with their WPA2 router, but I suspect their router is just more capable and is switching to WPA-TKIP discreetly.
This is not the same reported problem as having wifi cut off in sleep mode.
EDIT:
Oh, I just realized as a work-around I could put my home network on SSID2, and just the Nook on SSID1.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have similar issues. I can't use the internet reliably on my Nook Color or my EVO on my home router unless I'm running WPA+TKIP. I would prefer not to have my router setup this way though because of the security concerns and it not being much harder than WEP to crack.
Guess I'll just stick with WPA2+AES and look for another solution...
just to share some experience that hapenned to me:
In France we have an Internet box (wich is basically a router) that deserve 2 wireless network. One public shared with all user from the same Internet provider and one private for home.
At first my nook only saw the public one (wich is not really fast). The private one was not visible (or just flash in network tools on nook).
After some investigation i change the Wifi canal (from 10 to "automatic"). After that, no to see it and connect (if you forget the nook "special sleep policy")
soobaerodude said:
I'm having trouble connecting to an 802.11B (yes B) 11Mbps unencrypted router on the bus I commute to work with. Not sure of the brand or model. Wireless status says I'm connected, but testing. I try to browse the web with Dolphin HD, but I never connect. My iPhone connects to the bus' same router without problem.
However it connects just fine to a Linksys WRT610N v2 (flashed with TomatoUSB) running 2.4Ghz N, 40Mhz bandwidth, WPA2/AES
Running Autonooter 1.1, but given what Zhousibo said in the previous post, I'll try out NF 0.6.8.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
soobaerodude said:
Tried Nookie Froyo 0.6.8 on the bus this morning. It connects and gets an IP address, but still can't browse or do anything internet related.
Going to try to exchange my NC for a new one tonight, and see if things improve.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Please give an update after you exchange your NC. I suspect is the wifi chip drivers and not a bad NC.
fpga_guy said:
This is a compilation of threads found on this forum as well as the BN forum. I thought having it in one place will help.
The NC is the first device that I have encountered that had intermittent wifi problems. At home, I have a mixture of Macbooks, iPod, a Viewsonic G Tablet running Android 2.2, desktops running Windows 7 and XP using various brands of USB wireless adapters and have NOT had any problems using 802.11n with WPA2/AES encryption.
From other threads: "As always, everything in this guide is completely at your own risk, I am not responsible for you messing up your device further nor am I responsible in the event that your Nook Color explodes and kills your cat, grandma, etc."
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i dont experience any of these problems where ever i go
i have been able to connect into every coffee shop, book store, and school campus(i go to 3 different schools) plus i can hold a wifi connection at home
ill give you my router settings because it may have something to do with it
Router brand and model number: eg: NETGEAR : unknown
802.11 mode: b,g ,n
SSID visible: yes
Encryption: no or if yes: yes WPA2
NC Rom: HC preview 4
NC OS: 3.0
and my droid x works as well with the WPA/WPA2 security
Hi folks !
Recently I started to experience some troubles using my WiFis connections. The problem is simple, the connection drops, the WiFi network disappears from all the devices, and a few seconds later it comes back.
At first I thought it was a problem with the router of my work. But then I started to experience the same things at home. Then I decided to test the WiFi without connecting my Razr i to it and it worked like a charm. Now, as soon as I connect my Razr i to a WiFi, it crashes a few seconds/minutes later and keep doing it until I disconnect my phone from the WiFi.
Did someone experience the same thing ? Have you any idea for solving the problem ?
Thanks anyway.
PS : I only use 5Ghz WiFis. I'll try with 2.4 soon but the 5Ghz compatibility was one of the reasons why I bought this phone...
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Tevac said:
We have also issues with our WLAN at home, which is sometimes (but not always) very unstable in connection with a Samsung 5 Laptop (regular reboots shortly after activating the laptop Wifi).
I did not experience this problem yet with my Razr i, but I will keep it in mind over the next days (we have a complex setup with several computers, phones and Android entities based around a Fritzbox 7390, so error identification and validation takes very long and is not finished yet).
BTW - if you look for help here, please specify your WLAN router in detail as well as your provider and general IT-setup.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well ! Thanks for the reply.
My router that provides the two WiFis is a Cisco Linksys WRT61N.
My setup is kinda complex but works well. Got another router provided by my ISP, which is the DHCP server. This router is connected to a port of the WRT61N switch. Not to the internet port. Every connection that enters in the ISP router goes to the Linksys, and then is NATed by it. I don't think those informations are very relevant but anyway here they are. That's a complex setup but it works well (needed to do that because I have cable connection, and the cable modem/router have very limited configuration).
The devices that use my two WiFi are :
2.4Ghz : My Razr i right now.
5Ghz : Two iPads, and the HTC 8X of my girlfriend.
I made some other tests, one the Razr i there is an option for switching on or off a kind of network frequency. So instead of both enabled, I enabled only the 2.4Ghz WiFi frequency and connected my phone to my 2.4Ghz WiFi. No problems detected. Stable connection. Right now I'm at work, and everything works well in 2.4Ghz. So there is clearly a problem with the 5Ghz frequency on my Razr i.
Anyway, during those tests, I discovered something very interesting. My battery life had a huge improvement with the desactivation of the 5Ghz WiFi frequency.
Thanks for the details - especially on the 2.4/5 GHz topic.
I am also at work right now, but will check it at home and keep you posted.
WPA2
I had the same problem, I think it was triggered everytime the phone went to "sleep". It was changing the security encryption that fixed it for me. I can't remember what i had on the router as default, and I'm not at home right now to check what I'm running, but I believe it's WPA2. After the change, I had no trouble whatsoever. Hope this helps, good luck!
EDIT: nevermind what i said, i just logged into my router and remembered it wasnt the encryption type settings, but rather the wifi standard used, it used to be 802.11 b+n+g, and now i got it sitting at 802.11 b+g, which equals to 2.4 GHz. Meaning the razr has apparently a problem with the 5 GHz spectrum..
I too have a RAZRi which is connected by wi-fi at home to a Fritz!Box 7390. I noticed that when the RAZRi went into sleep mode with wi-fi connected (keep wi-fi on setting) it would have lost any internet connection on waking, requiring a disconnection/reconnection to reset. More annoyingly there was also a loss of connection (IP address) at laptops also connected to the router by w-fi on both 2.4GHz and 5GHz connections, which needed a reboot of either the PC or the router to re-establish a connection. The router GUI would show them all as remaining connected.
By using the manual setting on the router to restrict 2.4GHz connections to b+g (not b+g+n), it looks so far as though both problems are avoided, and the RAZRi can be set to use either the available 2.4GHz or 5GHz (a+n) connection on the Fritz! successfully without problems. EDIT big problem is though that disabling "n" on 2.4GHz seems to cause wi-fi throughputs to crash by more than 50% on both frequencies (which for me negates the benefit of having VDSL) - they recover if I re-enable, but then the lockups start if the phone is connected. A hobsons choice.
Thanks guys.
I've been getting a slow to fair connection on Steam Link, which really bothers me. I have 1GBPS WiFi from Xfinity with 40MBPS upload speed, both of which should allow me to connect to my computer very well. My computer is hardwired via ethernet, so that's not a problem, however Steam Link never labels my connection "Good." I have heard that this is the result of the WiFi on board Android opting to pick 2.4Ghz, and I've been looking to disable it. I couldn't get the package to install on Fox's Magisk for the 2.4Ghz WiFi disabler add on, so I searched around the forums and checked both my settings, as well as developer options. I even looked in data/misc/wifi, but there wasn't anything there I could tinker with to help with this. I did turn WiFi safe mode on in hopes to improve the stability of my device's WiFi, but this is as far as I've gotten.
Does anyone have suggestions for disabling 2.4Ghz or otherwise increasing my WiFi speed on here? I would really like not to have to seperate the bands manually, as last time that caused a host of problems with other people's devices in my household.
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
roirraW edor ehT said:
For what it's worth, and I'm aware this doesn't answer your question directly, nor help you right away, but my router allows me to use a single SSID for both 5GHz and 2.4GHz, and it automatically connects at the highest frequency a device can handle.
My point is that I don't think the issue is Android, because I've consistently gotten 5GHz Wi-Fi on my Pixel and Samsung devices in the last four years I've had this router.
I know you already discount this possibility but just for anyone else who comes across this...
Other than possibly buying a different router (I use Synology routers, and they just came out with a new one that I might upgrade to sometime), another potential workaround is for you to configure your router to use different SSIDs for the two frequencies, and then just never connect from your Tablet to the 2.4GHz SSID. I know this might be a PITA or possibly even just not a realistic solution, depending on how many other devices (smart devices) you already have configured to connect to your existing SSID.
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I mean, the two seperate SSID's is a valid solution, just one I'm not currently willing to use.
Here's something strange that made me believe that it's an Android issue. I previously used Steam Link on an IPad and got a good connection, I then moved over to Android and don't. It's very bizarre. I also can't backspace in Chrome Remote Desktop on Android for some reason. Also bizarre.
I do totally want a new router, but I'm tapped out of money for the foreseeable future anyway. We have the most up to date Xfinity router though, which I think is from 2018 or some such thing, to its credit, the internet almost never disconnects, and when it does, it fixes itself within around 60 seconds. Previous xfinity routers would disconnect frequently, and would require a reset to get working again.
Easiest is to have two different SSID's and different password for each. That way your galaxy tab will only connect to 5GHz and won't use 2.4GHz as long you don't connect to it with password for it.
Since if you name 2.4GHz and 5GHz same SSID then it will connect to 2.4GHz or 5GHz and keep switching since both have same SSID and password.