Database Develop

[Q] USB accessories yes and no

Based on my experience, the following work:
generic USB keyboard
Logitech DiNovo Mini with included adapter
USB flash drive up to 32GB
some card readers except sandisk mobilemate (only takes one card at time)
The following doesn't work:
sandisk mobilemate (microsd/m2)
USB speaker (but you can supply power through USB host and connect through regular audio connection)
You can add your experience below.

USB Devices
plugged a CyberPower 4 port USB hub into usb port then plugged 2 Lexar 4gb drives in and it was able to see both drive and play movies from them.

USB Keyboard?
I have tried connecting a USB keyboard with no luck. Is this because of the type of port on the A7?

tested
No problem with Microsoft keyboards.
generic mouse half works.... since there is no pointer I can not tell if I'm pointing at something. The scroll wheel does work.
Gravies Gamepad Pro does not work.

I bought a off brand Wii remote to use as a controller for the a7 but it seems i need a Name brand remote... bummer huh? Anyone know of a fix for this?

USB Keyboard
I connected a wireless keyboard and was able to type in appropriate areas, however when I was navigating I could change the focused item but could not find a way to select a given item without actually touching the screen.
Has anyone discovered a way to accomplish this function?

Case with keyboard not working
I bought a case off Ebay. When I plug it into the Elocity A7, nothing happens. When I plug it into a WinXP PC, it detects the keyboard and it functions fine. Could this be a driver issue and if so where is a good place to find Android Drivers? I'm new to Android so please go easy on me

My favorite keyboard the happy hacking pro 2 works just fine
Sent from my Elocity A7 using Tapatalk

HP Photosmart camera works fine. In the cameras options set USB mode to disk and it will read as a standard thumb drive.

This tablet is on sale right now
Does anyone know if I can connect my Western Digital 1TB Passport USB HDD to it? Or will I need to get a powered USB hub? I'm trying not to spend money on getting an Archos 101 (which apparently has the juice to power up a WD 1TB HDD). I primarily need a tablet for a media player in my vehicle, nothing else.. maybe have a shopping list on it for when I go grocery shopping?
So ya... can A7 handle 1TB external usb hard drive specifically: Western Digital My passport.
Edit: The A7 would be powered via cigarette lighter by the way.. it's not going to power my external hdd through battery, that's just silly.

Generc dell keybard works. Pelican afterglow ps3 controller does not.
Sandisk cruzer 4 gb usb drive works. Verbatim 2tb hdd causes reboot and white screen
Running Elocitymod 1.3

A7 accepts USB up to 64 GB. Maybe you can partition off 64 GB on your Passport??

Has anyone come across a bluetooth gamepad that works well with this tablet? I'm hoping to purchase something small and reasonably priced and use it to play a few old school classics via different emulators. Will a Wii remote work?

Connected a mini bluetooth keyboard without any problem,and im using a leather keyboard case without problems as well.
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Wii remotes do not work on the A7, sadly. I've tried all the pairing apps, they all either force close or immediately unpair when attempting to pair. I don't know enough about the issue to say if the problem is hardware (or lack thereof) related or software related so someone smarter than me will have to let us know if it will ever be possible.
On a side note to contribute to this conversation, I tried an HP USB keyboard and it works fine.
pejker said:
Has anyone come across a bluetooth gamepad that works well with this tablet? I'm hoping to purchase something small and reasonably priced and use it to play a few old school classics via different emulators. Will a Wii remote work?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse

Thanks for the info...i just tried to pair the Wiimote and got the same results you did; I'm currently using Dexter's latest ROM. Using the touchscreen is horrendous even if elocity had multi-touch.

rwood56847 said:
I bought a case off Ebay. When I plug it into the Elocity A7, nothing happens. When I plug it into a WinXP PC, it detects the keyboard and it functions fine. Could this be a driver issue and if so where is a good place to find Android Drivers? I'm new to Android so please go easy on me
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Good news - bad news. I also bought a keyboard on ebay and got it to work. I had a hunch that the power supplied by the USB port on the elocity was marginal. I connected the keyboard through a powered USB hub and...it works. If the power supplied by the A7 is marginal, that would explain why some devices work and others don't and why the ebay keyboard worked for one but wouldn't work for others.
This could be confirmed by cutting up a USB cable and measuring the voltage and current supplied to the keyboard from the A7 and comparing it with a PC or powered hub. I didn't have the time or inclination to do that.
Unfortunately, this makes the case with keyboard a kludge, because you will need a powered hub to get it to work.

Not all the cases with keyboard have required something else in order for them to work sounds like a roll of the device to me lol.

Yeah, mine works fine.

USB Keyboard Works Great on the A7
I found this to USB Keyboard to work great with the elocity A7

Home dock for car use?

Saw a nice video on YouTube about a guy who mounted his Streak on his Harley using the home dock, and figured at the least, the dock would make a good starting point for a car installation. All other mounting options require that you not only plug in the power connector at the bottom of the Streak, but also a cable into the headphone jack to get audio out, and, in my understanding at least, with the dock you can just plug the Streak into it, and it should turn off the Streak's speakers and direct the output to the dock's audio-out connector(s). Since the dock has disappeared from Dell's website (at least in the US, still listed in the UK), can someone who has one tell me what type of audio out connectors it has? Don't suppose there's any way of getting a back-up camera to display on the Streak, eh?
Also, what sort of power connector does the home dock have? Something I can adapt to be powered by the car?

The 30 pin dock connector supports:
USB out
USB charging in (2.0A)
USB dock sense
USB-OTG in
HDMI out
Line out
It reroutes though hdmi/lineout by sensing what's plugged in.
Lineout is sensed by being docked, hdmi is sensed by being connected.
The dock has no active chips, it's merely traces that run from port to port.

The audio out is 3.5mm stereo. Get a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable.
The power cable comes with the dock. It's a standard USB connector on one end, and a prorietary connection on the back of the dock.
You can connect power off of a 12v car adapter that you can plug a standard cable into. I got the adapter from RadioShack. They make a nice 2 Amp USB cigarette lighter adapter. Get the 2 Amp.
I've been running a home dock in my car for at least 6 months. It works like a champ. I used a piece of flat aluminum bent into an L to hold the dock and place pressure on the bottom portion of the tablet to create enough resistance so the tablet doesn't fly out. I used rubber feet I got from RadioShack placed on the L bracket so as not to scratch the tablet and provide the needed resistance.
Mounting the dock will vary from car to car. Getting the dock mounted and stable is the hardest part. Again you need to have enough resistance on the tablet when docked so that it doesn't go airborne when you take a hard corner or launch your car off the line.
I drive my car like I stole it, on a daily basis. I haven't had the tablet come out of the mount yet.
No way to wire in a back up camera. You'd have to bring the video in wireless somehow. It would be cool, but more trouble than it's worth IMHO. If you go for a back up cam and get it working well let us know.

Cool, just found one for $50 and $2 shipping. I've got a good bit of dash real estate on my Mountaineer, where a Kenwood 7" double-DIN touchscreen/nav is now installed. Figure there's room for the dock and a standard DIN HU behind where the tablet will sit.
Will it run dual-screen with the dock? I'd like to convert the HDMI out to run video to the rear monitor. I'm cool with it displaying the same video onscreen as the external monitor.

The hdmi out mirrors what's on the screen, but on the s7 it only outputs at 720p and not 1080p like other t2 tabs. I dont believe you can set it to anything but mirror.

Thinking about the camera, was wondering if some sort of wireless TCP/IP camera might work. I know there are apps to view them on android, the trick would be getting it networked to either the streak or my cell phone (which the streak will be wirelessly tethered to).

magicland said:
Thinking about the camera, was wondering if some sort of wireless TCP/IP camera might work. I know there are apps to view them on android, the trick would be getting it networked to either the streak or my cell phone (which the streak will be wirelessly tethered to).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I understand it the dock also has a mini USB host port. An OTG cable to a USB camera might work.

Finally got around to installing the dock in my Mountaineer. Just for a "proof of concept" trial I put in an old Kenwood single-DIN HU that I had lying around. Used 3M heavy duty "Velcro" on both the bottom of the dock and in the slot in the dash adapter (this one is from Metra, Scosche also makes one, but I don't know how well that will work).
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Streak is tethered to my cell, so I get internet access for nav, tune-in radio pro, Iheart radio, Google Music, Netflix, etc. Unit is powered by the OEM T-Mobile car adapter. No video out yet (and I was wondering if the line out audio cuts out if the HDMI is used or not). I've got the USB cable hooked up and running to the glove box for access, but I've got no use for it as yet.
Simple, easy hookup, but it looks pretty decent when the tablet is hooked up, and despite washboard roads and high speed sharp turns, it stays put and working. Now I just wish there was an app that would allow me to use the tablet as a bluetooth adapter for my phone, so I can place and answer calls...

How to use USB Host without an HD Dock (Updated 11/7/12)

In light of the EOL status of the Bionic, this method may no longer be the most cost effective, as the HD dock is now $24 on Amazon, before shipping. Still, this is a cheap way to use usb devices away from a tv or monitor. Please keep all of this in mind before considering this option.
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works. Now please note it's not the sleekest or most portable of methods. Still, it works.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that anything that works for the Bionic will work for the build as well. Also, I have no way of testing this in a car at the moment.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking it up to your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
I would also like to note that although many hubs allow for AC/DC power adapters to be used, most hubs won't send power through the host port. That is why the Y cable is necessary. But don't worry! I believe that if you attach the power connector of the Y cable to one of the ports of your powered hub, this should give you all the power you need for the phone to charge and activate the OTG mode.
Here's what you need.
USB hub with mini USB port for connecting to host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. Depending on what you already own, this could still be cheaper than an HD Dock.
All hubs with a mini usb host port should work for this build. But if there are any that don't, please give me the make and model info so I can add them to the list below.
Hubs Confirmed Unusable
None so far
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
Update 11/7/12- Still works on the 246 OTA.

silversonic1 said:
Many Bionic users have wondered if they could somehow use USB host without having to buy an expensive dock. Well, I have just finished testing a method that works.
Now please note it's not the sleakest or most portable of methods. At this writing, I am still waiting on USB OTG connectors that are known to work for other devices. However, I didn't want to hold back a successful result while waiting on an unknown.
Test Build - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0056.jpg
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. Put simply, it gives the power needed to charge the phone and to power the hub. EXTERNAL POWER IS NECESSARY. Because this method requires extra power, you have to have a powered USB port nearby. Some USB power packs may put out enough power, but it's still uncertain. However, since my Scosche solar battery pack worked both for the Bionic alone and for this build, it could be possible that other packs that work for the Bionic will work as well.
Action Shot - http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v148/silversonic1/GEDC0052-1.jpg
In the action shot, I am testing a 4GB SanDisk Cruzer. I did run other tests and usb keyboards and mice will work. I used a wireless Targus mouse, as well as a wireless HP mouse and keyboard. They all worked. Sadly, that is the extent of my current HID tech at the moment.
One thing I have observed in my tests is that you should have all of your rig connected before hooking up your phone. That includes external power. Not doing so could cause your hub to be recognized much more slowly, or not at all.
Here's a list of the parts used. (Will update specifics if requested.)
USB hub with USB-mini interface for host device($5-$20)
Y USB cable($4)
USB Type A Female-USB Micro Male adapter($1-2)
Build subtotal-$10-$26, before tax or shipping. That's a lot cheaper than $55-$100 on an HD dock.
Thank you for looking this through. I hope it helps.
(Also, if this thread is in the wrong place, I'm sorry. I didn't think this was necessarily an accessory thing, but rather a way to utilize a built-in feature.)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
thats freaking awesome dude

iNsAnEmOd said:
thats freaking awesome dude
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm glad you see it that way. It's my hope that this works for any Motorola device that is built with a lapdock mode.

I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire

smokedkill said:
I'm hoping someone makes an app that allows me to use my tablet for a keyboard and mousepad for the webtop. I'm not a fan of hanging out within 6 feet of my tv when using the webtop.
Sent from the Evil Empire
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, this rig works with wireless keyboards and mice. True, not the same as a tablet, but it'll get you further from the tv.
As for what you are suggesting, I thought I had heard some people were working on something similar. I'll PM you if I find it.
xda premium is insane! ... In a good way.

What Components
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?

codenamefly21 said:
What is the amperage output of the power source your using? Also what is the model number of the usb hub your using? i tried a usb hub i had but it didnt work. Also did you have to bridge the pin 4 to ground on the micro plug in essence creating a otg cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok. One thing a a time.
Power.
In the action shot, I used my laptop. However, the charger that comes with the phone works as well. That's 5.1volts, 850mA
Model of hub.
I have tested 2 different hubs at this point. At the moment, the one from the photos is unavailable, so I can't get the model info from it now. However, the other I tested is a Manhattan 4-port USB hub, model 160612.
Connector.
I made no modifications to the connectors that I have used. They were, however, already being marketed as OTG adapters. I ordered the one from the pictures on dealextreme. I recently bought newer ones from ebay that are angled up the side of the phone. The new ones work as well.
I suggest that you make sure all of your connectors are secure. A proper connection will have the phone charging while the hub receives power. If it fails to connect to a device after 1 minute when you make your first connection, disconnect the phone and than reconnect.
If you still have trouble after, please post what you're using along with a pic of your setup. With any luck, we'll get it all sorted out.

Working portable prototype
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help

codenamefly21 said:
I have a working portable prototype using a 9v battery as the power source. I think the problem with the initial test is that i wasnt waiting long enough for the phone to detect the usb hub and the memory card. Now i have it working fully. I have tried 2 different usb hubs and both worked. 1 was the micro innovations usb204n it worked but was a bit bulky. The second was one i bought from a store local to my home called biglots its an E Source brand 4port usb 2.0 $7. Its nice and slim with an extra ac port on the side. The setup ill be creating is i will wire a 9v battery to a 7805 voltage regulator (with an inline power switch of course) soldered directly to the pins of the ac port. Then i will desolder the usb plug and solder in my homemade otg cable. So all you will have to do is plug it directly to the phone plug in the usb drive and then flip the power switch. i dont wanna post pictures of the ugly prototype so ill have pictures of the final product this weekend. I will say that i found out a usb hub is not needed to use a mouse but the otg cable is. Thank you silversonic for your help
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I am certainly looking forward to seeing what all you have come up with. Just take your time. After all, I'm sure there are those who are willing to build a more stylish solution than I have up top.

Battery powered usb hub
Ok so i finished the battery powered usb hub that connects to any micro usb phone but it was to bulky using the 9v battery. So i came up with another design using an old cell phone battery. So it is rechargeable as soon as i add the on off switch it will be finished.
---------- Post added at 09:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:44 PM ----------
The usb hub was just too bulky using the 9v battery
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Rechargeable battery powered usb hub with otg cable
Here is the finished hardware. I took pictures before i seal it all up so yall could see what all i did. The usb hub has a otg cable that plugs into your phone. It has a 950mah cell phone battery and the circuitry from an emergency charger that converts 2 aa batteries (3v) to 5v. Also on the circuitry was an led flashlight so i decided to keep it in there just in case . The only problem was that the off switch that was on the circuit wouldn't shut off the power to the hub for some reason so i put a secondary switch on the power wire to the hub. I had a problem with the charger charging the battery because it charges the battery based on voltage and the capacitors were screwing that up so i put a diode on the power going into the up-scaling circuit board but not as to break the connection with the charger to battery wires.

That is certainly the most mobile solution to USB host so far. Kudos!

problem
I was having a problem soon after I put everything together. Anytime I plugged the phone in the circuit would shut down because to much amperage was being pulled from the battery and as a safety thing lithium batteries will shut down so they wont over heat I finally realized all I had to do was put an 8ohm resistor on the power wire going from the usb hub to the phone. 8ohm only because that was what I had. I tried a 1/2ohm resistor and it worked but the less amperage being pulled from the battery the longer it lasts and the circuit doesn't get as hot.

hey man, thanks a lot for your research! i hopped on this thread and about 30 seconds later i had my wireless (unifying usb receiver) logitech keyboard and mouse working
had a male->male usb cable, usb hub, and micro usb male -> full female lying around. plugged everything in and presto!
the touchscreen monitor doesn't work though for webtop

More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.

Mine works, cheapo Micro Center hub
I actually spoke with the OP this weekend, and before I read his reply, I was up and running. Sadly, I bought a Manhattan hub based on his findings, which was a bit pricey given the current price of normal USB hubs. I paid $15 on ebay for one, and when I got it, it didn't work. I then bought a usb Y cable from ebay as well, and that was the culprit, that cable was necessary for any hub, regardless if it uses an AC power adapter or not.
On a good note, that means that there's a good chance cheaper (and easier to find) USB hubs may work. The one I'm currently using is Gear Head brand, was $9 at Micro Center. That hub without using the included power cable, and just using the Y usb cable bought separately and the OTG adapter on ebay got me up and running.
Hmmm...now that I look, it seems the hub I got for $9 went up to $15 anyway, but here's what I used incase you have a MC closeby and don't feel like waiting for shipping. Search for SKU 280750 on Microcenter's site. I'm new here so it won't let me post URL's.
Bad news is you'll be paying a total of around $20 for this project, the good news is that may be the maximum you'd be paying, and that's if you buy a $15 usb hub. Honestly, I'd say just look around local stores for one cheaper that has a mini USB port to connect it to the phone + external power usb port (i.e. a laptop next to the phone), and if it doesn't work, return it as long as you can box it up without it looking demolished. Best of luck to everyone, but I hope my verification shows there may be more hope since the Manhattan model is fairly hard to find at a cheap price.

silversonic1 said:
You may be wondering why I am using a Y USB cable. In my testing, I have come to the conclusion that Motorola intentionally crippled the phone's OTG functions. It appears that the host mode only works when TWO priorities are met. First, the phone MUST be receiving power. Second, a hub MUST be used. If either of these is not met, the OTG mode stays offline.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful

mossadacity said:
I'd imagine they didn't want both the phone and Lapdock trying to send power over USB simultaneously.
Thanks for the guide, it was useful
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You're welcome. I have updated to the ICS leak, so I will have to test again, just to be sure that nothing has changed.

3d printed docking station
silversonic1 said:
More than likely because touch screen drivers aren't as generic as mice or keyboards. But it was a good thing to try out. Mind sharing the make and model info? It will be helpful to others to know what to expect.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for the delayed reply.
I buy generic cables from meritline.com, so there is no brand on them :good:
I think I'm the first person on Thingiverse to create an accessory for the droid bionic, what do you guys think of it:
That was iteration #1, to get the dimensions correct. From here, I can go anywhere. Do folks have any dock dreams they'd like to see come to fruition?

For a while now I've wanted to be able to use my waterproof camera to take pictures, and use my phone to upload them to the web without needing to fire up a computer to do a transfer from the SD card to the phone. This thread inspired me to finally take the leap to work up an OTG adapter. I went on Amazon to buy the Y-cable and the little adapters, but found something better.
This (board won't let me post a link because I'm new) is a USB hub that connects a phone to one of the four downstream ports with a built-in micro USB connector cable. I ordered one up, suspecting that I could mod it to be an OTG adapter. I was right.
To do the mod, the first step is to pry the endcap off the micro USB connector and slide the cover back. This exposes the soldered wire connections. One side of the connector has three wires.
The other side has one wire and an empty solder pad.
Solder a jumper wire from the empty pad to the black wire on the other side.
Then slide the connector cover back over the connector, and press the endcap back into place. If necessary, you can secure the end cap with a drop of super glue.
Next, open the case of the hub. Mine pulled right open with only finger pressure. Use a small screwdriver to remove the circuit board. It is not held by anything other than a light press fit.
This is the back side of the circuit board.
This is the chip that runs the USB hub.
I googled the chip number and downloaded the data sheet, just to be sure there were no gotchas. There weren't any. The only modification is swapping the regular and the micro USB cables. It goes without saying that this requires a very fine soldering iron and a steady hand. Desolder both cables and reattach the micro USB cable on the Host end of the circuit board.
This lets your phone control the hub. As was mentioned earlier in the thread, the Droid Bionic won't power the hub, so you need to hook up the other USB cable to the device side of the circuit board to provide power. Only hook up the power wires. Just cut the data wires short.
Then reinstall the circuit board into the case.
And press the cover back on.
It would be easy to wire a battery to the hub either by connecting to the USB port cable, through the 5VDC power input jack, or by removing the jack and hard wiring directly to the circuit board.
To use the adapter, I plug my SD card reader into the hub, plug the power USB connector into my wall adapter (or car adapter), and plug the micro USB cable into the phone (in that order). The phone immediately loads the card as an attached storage device.
Enjoy,
Todd F.

Having issues with connecting my Chromecast to a Projector

Hello, I am having an issue with connecting my new CC to a projector. It works fine on my home TV but when I take to a community location with a projector I can't get it to work. I get it to log into the WIFI and my CC app on my phone & Tablet recognize it but I can't get the projector to receive a stream from it.
Background on the projector. Brand New Epson projector Model # EX5220. Ceiling mounted. Apple TV connects to it just fine and streams without hesitation. Audio is split back at a sound booth and only Video is sent to the projector.
At first I just removed the Apple TV from the equation and put the CC in its place (had to use a HDMI coupler to connect it to the male end of the other HDMI cable) with no result. After some investigation I noted that there are a two different junction boxes that the signal is being run through. One is a switcher box that allows several different HDMI cables to connect to it and you choose which one you want to show. The other is a converter box (It splits the audio from the video, it sends the audio to our switch board and the video to the projector).
I then just plugged the CC into the switcher box in place of the cable that ran to the Apple TV with no result. Then I bypassed the Switcher box altogether and used the HDMI coupler to connect to the HDMI Cable that ran from the converter box to the switcher box with no success. Then I just plugged right into the converter box with the CC and still had no signal at the projector.
Even though it wouldn't separate the sound I wanted to see if the CC would at least send something to the projector so I bypassed the converter box altogether and connected (using the HDMI coupler) directly to the HDMI cable that went right into the projector and still received no signal whatsoever at the projector.
One other note regarding the Projector is that between it and the converter box there is probably somewhere around 50 feet or so of cable (I didn't set it up but I think it is CAT6 cable from what I'm told).
I never connected my CC right to the back of the projector (didn't have a ladder to reach that high) so I couldn't test if a direct connection would at least show video.
My two thoughts as to what the issue might be is:
1) length / type of cable causes degradation of signal from CC (even though it allows the Apple TV to send signal to projector). Possibly the CC doesn't have enough power to send the signal that far... not sure if that could be a legit issue here, so I might be reaching.
2) The CC doesn't like My HDMI coupler and thus the signal doesn't send.
I've attached pics below to show what I'm talking about. Since the AT works fine with the setup I feel that CC should too. Please give me any feed back you can and let me know if you need any other info.
Side note: I just bought the CC yesterday and this was my first test with it. I took it home and got it to work perfectly with my TV. I made sure it had power and it was right next to the WIFI and my Phone was within 3 feet of it the entire time. After I reconnected everything (The AT to the projector) I retested the AT and it worked fine with the same exact setup as before.
Thank you for any help you can provide!
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Hopefully these shots help. If this setup is incorrect or if you have a better solution please feel free to give suggestions, I need to figure this out. Thanks so much!

You didn't show it (so I could be wrong) but if I had to guess the issue lay in the HDMI to Cat6 Converter that may not be passing the proper handshaking the CCast needs.
Could even be an issue with HDCP not being supported which might stop the CCast from creating an output.
Not sure why a Cat6 cable would have an HDMI connector on it.... So perhaps I'm wrong in thinking you are using such a converter.
Cable length is also a very good candidate but the HDMI to Cat6 converter (if used) should negate that as it amplifies the signal and regenerates to proper levels on the other side of the Cat 6 (at least it should)
You tried everything (sounds like it anyway) except perhaps plugging into the box that has the Cat6 going to the projector.
Plugging directly into the cable probably wouldn't work and I'm not sure why it would have that HDMI connector (hence my above confusion)
If there is a box on one end of the cable that goes to the Projector, unless it is an amplifier there is probably also another box at the other end. Bypassing the first box would break the communication as it is likely doing something the end box needs to get the signal.
So I would try plugging into that box that has the Cat6 that goes to the Projector and not directly into the cable that goes to it.
If you tried that then I'm not sure what to try next other than directly plugging into the Projector and seeing if it is even capable of displaying a CCast at all.

Did you plug it into external power, or only into HDMI? Also did the light come on on the device when you plugged into the hdmi ? I have had mixed results with using adapters, but the power question isn't clear from op unless I missed it.

Yes I plugged into power. Yes the light did come on the cc, even when I used the coupler.
I only mentioned the cat6 because I was told that cat6 was run between the sound booth and the projector. Where exactly it transfers from hdmi to cat6 idk, I can't see that portion. I will look at it again tonight and investigate this. I will also attempt to connect directly into the projector to see if it recognizes the signal from cc.

Ok I just checked and the HDMI cable goes into the wall before it connects to the CAT6, so I can't connect to or observe the connection there. However at the projector there is an HDMI outlet that the HDMI cable is plugged iinto.
I told a couple pics, I'll post later.
I then connected the CC directly into the projector and it worked pperfectly. This is not a viable option normally because of two reasons.
1. It is a ceiling mount and it would to much of an inconvenience to climb up and down every time I needed to connect to the projector.
2. The sound is played through the projector and not the sound system. The sound is spit off at the sound booth in the converter box not at the projector.
I need to be able to plug the CC into that converter for this to be able to work properly.
Any other idea's or suggestions?
Thanks

Sithlyone said:
Ok I just checked and the HDMI cable goes into the wall before it connects to the CAT6, so I can't connect to or observe the connection there. However at the projector there is an HDMI outlet that the HDMI cable is plugged iinto.
I told a couple pics, I'll post later.
I then connected the CC directly into the projector and it worked pperfectly. This is not a viable option normally because of two reasons.
1. It is a ceiling mount and it would to much of an inconvenience to climb up and down every time I needed to connect to the projector.
2. The sound is played through the projector and not the sound system. The sound is spit off at the sound booth in the converter box not at the projector.
I need to be able to plug the CC into that converter for this to be able to work properly.
Any other idea's or suggestions?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the HDMI in the wall a cable plugged into a connector or just a cable coming through the wall?
If just a cable coming through, then you need to trace where that goes and plug into whatever it is plugged into to see if you get signal (Audio we can deal with later we just need to find out what is killing the video)
If the Tech is correct and there is an HDMI over Cat6 converter being used it could be an HDCP issue.
In either case something in the HDMI chain between the projector and the CCast is not sending a proper return signal the CCast needs.

Thanks so much.
Unfortunately I can't get to what the cable is connected to. It is a cable just go into the wall, it is in the wall or ceiling and I don't have access to it.
I'm not sure by what you mean when you say HDCP issue.
Also the Apple TV works perfectly over these connections. Does CC have different needs?

Sithlyone said:
Thanks so much.
Unfortunately I can't get to what the cable is connected to. It is a cable just go into the wall, it is in the wall or ceiling and I don't have access to it.
I'm not sure by what you mean when you say HDCP issue.
Also the Apple TV works perfectly over these connections. Does CC have different needs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection. It's an anti Piracy system that uses encrypted Keys on both the content source (CCast in this case) and output device (projector). If the CCast does not see a proper HDCP output device it may not display a signal. This really shouldn't apply to the CCast Default screen but it might.
As for the difference between the AppleTv and CCast, I am not sure but what I do know is the CCast needs a return signal from the output device to know what screen mode to display. You have so many devices between the CCast and the Projector it sounds like it may not be getting that information.
And HDMI over Cat5 converters are the most usual culprit in these cases.

Thanks so much, do you know of another device out there that will allow me to Screencast or mirror in the way I need it to? Other than apple tv?
thanks so much

Sithlyone said:
Thanks so much, do you know of another device out there that will allow me to Screencast or mirror in the way I need it to? Other than apple tv?
thanks so much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you could try a Miracast dongle...
But your question poses another....
Were you trying to mirror at the time you got no signal?
Of was you just plugging in and expecting to see the default CCast screen?
Cause when Mirroring the CCast uses the resolution of the Mobile device and perhaps your Projector does not support that?
I am going to assume thats not the issue and were merely plugging in the CCast before attempting to put it into Mirror mode.
Truth of the matter is they are better off removing the Cat6 converter as it really is only needed for very long cable runs and what you describe would probably work better by just running a long HDMI cable to the Projector.
An HDMI Amp in the line would even be better than the Cat5 Converter because there would be no delay in signal that happens when the Cat5 converter converts from one to the other.

The projector is about 50 feet or so from the converter box.
I can't add anything to the equipment that is already installed, I can only bring a casting device.

Sithlyone said:
The projector is about 50 feet or so from the converter box.
I can't add anything to the equipment that is already installed, I can only bring a casting device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand I'm just pointing out that whoever designed their system really over engineered it and added a ton of stuff they don't really need.
50Ft is not too long of a throw for a straight HDMI cable run.
And considering how they did things it really could be anything screwing with you and most likely something in the signal chain you can't see or get to.
SO unless you have a device with an HDMI output you are probably not going to get a signal.

Projectors often don't return correct EDID information. EDID specifies that resolutions/formats the device supports.
There are devices that plug in between and provide/override EDID information like Dr. HDMI and HDMI Detective but both units cost significantly more than the Chromecast itself.

bhiga said:
Projectors often don't return correct EDID information. EDID specifies that resolutions/formats the device supports.
There are devices that plug in between and provide/override EDID information like Dr. HDMI and HDMI Detective but both units cost significantly more than the Chromecast itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but (I think) in this case they get picture when directly connecting to the projector which suggests the projector is communicating properly but something in the signal path is killing the communication when he plugs in via their multiple converter box system...
Since they have bypassed everything except the Cat 6 Converter I have to believe that is the culprit.

Samsung Dex (generic)

Yesterday I received a Rocketek Dex station from amazon, I purchased it for 26.99 thought I would post on here because I think its pretty good.
small and cheap it can fit in your pocket dont need to buy that huge Samsung dex station for over $100 either.
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https://www.amazon.com/Rocketek-Ada...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XE8630Y98D2ZT1V96VZY
I also use this Bluetooth keyboard/mouse pad to use with the dex, It is one of best I found, because it has metal back very thin, and light. The metal back I never thought would be able to find on a keyboard/mouse like this.
1byone Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard with Built-in Multi-touch Touchpad, Touch Keyboard for Windows / Android Tablet / Galaxy Tabs / Smartphones, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRC6D3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nYXCAbGJ49S96

Agree. I am using it for some time now and have had no issues at all.... Works as Sammy's Dex.

Does it work for Dex? Because lots of the reviews online say no.
I have a KSWNG unit, which looks similar. It works great on my Nintendo Switch, but I am having some issues with it running Dex. It requires power to load Dex. Without power, it only does screen mirroring. When I use external power, my full USB port stops functioning. I can only use either/or.

Yes works with dex, turns on dex on note 8

Are you running stock Samsung firmware?
Is external power required for Dex on your unit?
Can you charge AND use USB while using Dex?
My Note 8 is using CRA9 Oreo, requires external power to turn on Dex (screen mirroring without), and adding power will disable the Full USB port.
So I can do screen mirroring with my keyboard/mouse, OR Dex using the phone as a touchpad.

I am on 7.1.1 I am not sure if it runs without external power.
It has 3 ports 1 usb c to charge 1 HDMI 1 usb
Then a male usb c to connect to the phone

I am asking if you can charge AND use the USB port for external mouse/keyboard.
All of the reviews I've seen/read say that the Rocketek only uses Dex without power, however I think Samsung is trying to kill off these 3rd party adapters by requiring Power during use, which my adapter disables the USB port.
Can you confirm you can run Dex while charging and using a USB mouse?

I just told you it has 3 ports one usb, one usb c, one HDMI, what else would you do with a usb c then to charge it, then a usb c male to plug into phone did you look at the pictures look at Amazon at all or the reviews you can answer your own question

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0...C_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dex+note+8
I use this one. It's ridiculously tiny and well made; the USB C that plugs into the note 8 folds into the back of the hub. Works flawlessly with Samsung dex with and without power. I'm on Dr. KETAN'S N5 ROM. I use DEX MAX free app to allow all my apps to display full screen. Everything is perfect.

I have one too. It doesn't show the charging light, but it does in fact charge. I'm using a lightning charger. I also have a K400 hooked up and it works well. I have all 3 8 series phones and it works fine. For sure not as robust as the dock, but I keep mine I a case.
EDIT
Using it now. It is a fast charge. I have never used it with a "slow" USB wall wart.

Do any of these support ultrawide monitors (2560x1080)? I have the DeX Station connected to a LG Ultrawide display, and I end up with vertical black bands on both sides.
Or perhaps this is a software limitation, rather than hardware.

I believe it supports same as normal dex, so what ever the normal one can do, 4k I think is possible but could be wrong

It seems interesting. Is it possible to charge the phone while the dock is being used as Dex?

Does this still work? I heard Samsung updated it to no longer work with 3rd party stations.

treezy26 said:
Does this still work? I heard Samsung updated it to no longer work with 3rd party stations.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm on January security patch and just used my generic Dex yesterday, also another question above, it (fast) charges at same time when the unit is plugged into a fast charger.

krumbs said:
Do any of these support ultrawide monitors (2560x1080)? I have the DeX Station connected to a LG Ultrawide display, and I end up with vertical black bands on both sides.
Or perhaps this is a software limitation, rather than hardware.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have an LG ultrawide and have full screen in dex mode, Note running in high performance mode with whatever screen settings that is, I do get a pop up message about screen settings but it goes away and I have full screen

dogg94 said:
I'm on January security patch and just used my generic Dex yesterday, also another question above, it (fast) charges at same time when the unit is plugged into a fast charger.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So how is it for you? Do you like it? Is it worth it to you? The whole experience I mean lol.

j_hansen said:
I have an LG ultrawide and have full screen in dex mode, Note running in high performance mode with whatever screen settings that is, I do get a pop up message about screen settings but it goes away and I have full screen
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Can you post a picture of your Ultrawide using Dex in 21:9? Is it streched?

Hi guys, i'm going to order port dex support on amazon. but I heard Samsung updated (last patch oreo) in last month to no longer work with 3rd party stations. is it still working with your Note8 ? Looking forward your answer. Thanks.

trislr said:
Hi guys, i'm going to order port dex support on amazon. but I heard Samsung updated (last patch oreo) in last month to no longer work with 3rd party stations. is it still working with your Note8 ? Looking forward your answer. Thanks.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Running a Note 8 with Oreo and have a generic USB-C to USB dock that I got off of amazon and Dex is working great. Even bought a usb-c extension cable for it (just came today) and it all works brilliantly.