Hello, I am having an issue with connecting my new CC to a projector. It works fine on my home TV but when I take to a community location with a projector I can't get it to work. I get it to log into the WIFI and my CC app on my phone & Tablet recognize it but I can't get the projector to receive a stream from it.
Background on the projector. Brand New Epson projector Model # EX5220. Ceiling mounted. Apple TV connects to it just fine and streams without hesitation. Audio is split back at a sound booth and only Video is sent to the projector.
At first I just removed the Apple TV from the equation and put the CC in its place (had to use a HDMI coupler to connect it to the male end of the other HDMI cable) with no result. After some investigation I noted that there are a two different junction boxes that the signal is being run through. One is a switcher box that allows several different HDMI cables to connect to it and you choose which one you want to show. The other is a converter box (It splits the audio from the video, it sends the audio to our switch board and the video to the projector).
I then just plugged the CC into the switcher box in place of the cable that ran to the Apple TV with no result. Then I bypassed the Switcher box altogether and used the HDMI coupler to connect to the HDMI Cable that ran from the converter box to the switcher box with no success. Then I just plugged right into the converter box with the CC and still had no signal at the projector.
Even though it wouldn't separate the sound I wanted to see if the CC would at least send something to the projector so I bypassed the converter box altogether and connected (using the HDMI coupler) directly to the HDMI cable that went right into the projector and still received no signal whatsoever at the projector.
One other note regarding the Projector is that between it and the converter box there is probably somewhere around 50 feet or so of cable (I didn't set it up but I think it is CAT6 cable from what I'm told).
I never connected my CC right to the back of the projector (didn't have a ladder to reach that high) so I couldn't test if a direct connection would at least show video.
My two thoughts as to what the issue might be is:
1) length / type of cable causes degradation of signal from CC (even though it allows the Apple TV to send signal to projector). Possibly the CC doesn't have enough power to send the signal that far... not sure if that could be a legit issue here, so I might be reaching.
2) The CC doesn't like My HDMI coupler and thus the signal doesn't send.
I've attached pics below to show what I'm talking about. Since the AT works fine with the setup I feel that CC should too. Please give me any feed back you can and let me know if you need any other info.
Side note: I just bought the CC yesterday and this was my first test with it. I took it home and got it to work perfectly with my TV. I made sure it had power and it was right next to the WIFI and my Phone was within 3 feet of it the entire time. After I reconnected everything (The AT to the projector) I retested the AT and it worked fine with the same exact setup as before.
Thank you for any help you can provide!
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Hopefully these shots help. If this setup is incorrect or if you have a better solution please feel free to give suggestions, I need to figure this out. Thanks so much!
You didn't show it (so I could be wrong) but if I had to guess the issue lay in the HDMI to Cat6 Converter that may not be passing the proper handshaking the CCast needs.
Could even be an issue with HDCP not being supported which might stop the CCast from creating an output.
Not sure why a Cat6 cable would have an HDMI connector on it.... So perhaps I'm wrong in thinking you are using such a converter.
Cable length is also a very good candidate but the HDMI to Cat6 converter (if used) should negate that as it amplifies the signal and regenerates to proper levels on the other side of the Cat 6 (at least it should)
You tried everything (sounds like it anyway) except perhaps plugging into the box that has the Cat6 going to the projector.
Plugging directly into the cable probably wouldn't work and I'm not sure why it would have that HDMI connector (hence my above confusion)
If there is a box on one end of the cable that goes to the Projector, unless it is an amplifier there is probably also another box at the other end. Bypassing the first box would break the communication as it is likely doing something the end box needs to get the signal.
So I would try plugging into that box that has the Cat6 that goes to the Projector and not directly into the cable that goes to it.
If you tried that then I'm not sure what to try next other than directly plugging into the Projector and seeing if it is even capable of displaying a CCast at all.
Did you plug it into external power, or only into HDMI? Also did the light come on on the device when you plugged into the hdmi ? I have had mixed results with using adapters, but the power question isn't clear from op unless I missed it.
Yes I plugged into power. Yes the light did come on the cc, even when I used the coupler.
I only mentioned the cat6 because I was told that cat6 was run between the sound booth and the projector. Where exactly it transfers from hdmi to cat6 idk, I can't see that portion. I will look at it again tonight and investigate this. I will also attempt to connect directly into the projector to see if it recognizes the signal from cc.
Ok I just checked and the HDMI cable goes into the wall before it connects to the CAT6, so I can't connect to or observe the connection there. However at the projector there is an HDMI outlet that the HDMI cable is plugged iinto.
I told a couple pics, I'll post later.
I then connected the CC directly into the projector and it worked pperfectly. This is not a viable option normally because of two reasons.
1. It is a ceiling mount and it would to much of an inconvenience to climb up and down every time I needed to connect to the projector.
2. The sound is played through the projector and not the sound system. The sound is spit off at the sound booth in the converter box not at the projector.
I need to be able to plug the CC into that converter for this to be able to work properly.
Any other idea's or suggestions?
Thanks
Sithlyone said:
Ok I just checked and the HDMI cable goes into the wall before it connects to the CAT6, so I can't connect to or observe the connection there. However at the projector there is an HDMI outlet that the HDMI cable is plugged iinto.
I told a couple pics, I'll post later.
I then connected the CC directly into the projector and it worked pperfectly. This is not a viable option normally because of two reasons.
1. It is a ceiling mount and it would to much of an inconvenience to climb up and down every time I needed to connect to the projector.
2. The sound is played through the projector and not the sound system. The sound is spit off at the sound booth in the converter box not at the projector.
I need to be able to plug the CC into that converter for this to be able to work properly.
Any other idea's or suggestions?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Is the HDMI in the wall a cable plugged into a connector or just a cable coming through the wall?
If just a cable coming through, then you need to trace where that goes and plug into whatever it is plugged into to see if you get signal (Audio we can deal with later we just need to find out what is killing the video)
If the Tech is correct and there is an HDMI over Cat6 converter being used it could be an HDCP issue.
In either case something in the HDMI chain between the projector and the CCast is not sending a proper return signal the CCast needs.
Thanks so much.
Unfortunately I can't get to what the cable is connected to. It is a cable just go into the wall, it is in the wall or ceiling and I don't have access to it.
I'm not sure by what you mean when you say HDCP issue.
Also the Apple TV works perfectly over these connections. Does CC have different needs?
Sithlyone said:
Thanks so much.
Unfortunately I can't get to what the cable is connected to. It is a cable just go into the wall, it is in the wall or ceiling and I don't have access to it.
I'm not sure by what you mean when you say HDCP issue.
Also the Apple TV works perfectly over these connections. Does CC have different needs?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
HDCP stands for High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection. It's an anti Piracy system that uses encrypted Keys on both the content source (CCast in this case) and output device (projector). If the CCast does not see a proper HDCP output device it may not display a signal. This really shouldn't apply to the CCast Default screen but it might.
As for the difference between the AppleTv and CCast, I am not sure but what I do know is the CCast needs a return signal from the output device to know what screen mode to display. You have so many devices between the CCast and the Projector it sounds like it may not be getting that information.
And HDMI over Cat5 converters are the most usual culprit in these cases.
Thanks so much, do you know of another device out there that will allow me to Screencast or mirror in the way I need it to? Other than apple tv?
thanks so much
Sithlyone said:
Thanks so much, do you know of another device out there that will allow me to Screencast or mirror in the way I need it to? Other than apple tv?
thanks so much
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well you could try a Miracast dongle...
But your question poses another....
Were you trying to mirror at the time you got no signal?
Of was you just plugging in and expecting to see the default CCast screen?
Cause when Mirroring the CCast uses the resolution of the Mobile device and perhaps your Projector does not support that?
I am going to assume thats not the issue and were merely plugging in the CCast before attempting to put it into Mirror mode.
Truth of the matter is they are better off removing the Cat6 converter as it really is only needed for very long cable runs and what you describe would probably work better by just running a long HDMI cable to the Projector.
An HDMI Amp in the line would even be better than the Cat5 Converter because there would be no delay in signal that happens when the Cat5 converter converts from one to the other.
The projector is about 50 feet or so from the converter box.
I can't add anything to the equipment that is already installed, I can only bring a casting device.
Sithlyone said:
The projector is about 50 feet or so from the converter box.
I can't add anything to the equipment that is already installed, I can only bring a casting device.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I understand I'm just pointing out that whoever designed their system really over engineered it and added a ton of stuff they don't really need.
50Ft is not too long of a throw for a straight HDMI cable run.
And considering how they did things it really could be anything screwing with you and most likely something in the signal chain you can't see or get to.
SO unless you have a device with an HDMI output you are probably not going to get a signal.
Projectors often don't return correct EDID information. EDID specifies that resolutions/formats the device supports.
There are devices that plug in between and provide/override EDID information like Dr. HDMI and HDMI Detective but both units cost significantly more than the Chromecast itself.
bhiga said:
Projectors often don't return correct EDID information. EDID specifies that resolutions/formats the device supports.
There are devices that plug in between and provide/override EDID information like Dr. HDMI and HDMI Detective but both units cost significantly more than the Chromecast itself.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes but (I think) in this case they get picture when directly connecting to the projector which suggests the projector is communicating properly but something in the signal path is killing the communication when he plugs in via their multiple converter box system...
Since they have bypassed everything except the Cat 6 Converter I have to believe that is the culprit.
Related
I've been buying a lot of 3rd party adapters for car / dock / headphones and most of them don't work since it's mostly mini usb instead of htc's dumb 11 pin mini usb.
I'm about to just pay for the overpriced docking kit from tmobile. But, before I do I wanted to know if anyone currently has one and if they like it?
zelpus said:
it's mostly mini usb instead of htc's dumb 11 pin mini usb.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what's wrong with mini usb?
i use it all the time.
It turns out the 11 pin thing on the docking station is just as problematic. There are some complaints on the T-Mo forums, and here's what I posted there about my experience:
http://forums.t-mobile.com/tmbl/board/message?board.id=AndroidHardware&thread.id=3919
I bought the docking station today, and unfortunately, it's true: the connection is only recognized as audio, not USB, and apparently those two are mutually exclusive. It looks pretty, but other than that, it frankly kinda sucks for claiming sync capability when there is clearly none. The packaging lies! Also, it needs a lot more weight and isn't friendly towards phone cases. So I would probably return it if I hadn't already taken it apart ...
Is there some way of kludging this thing to do what we want, maybe with existing parts or with some creative soldering?
I did a bit of searching around on the forums, and it seems that there are existing (and much, much cheaper) adaptors or cradles that bypass this problem by offering, instead of one 11pin EMU jack on the back, one USB and one (presumably audio only) EMU.
For example, there's this HTC multifunction audio adapter:
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll146/fulin123456/mobile Accessories/originalHTC4in1.jpg
And the less complicated charging audio adapter:
http://www.truesupplier.com/images/D/HTCadapterok-07.jpg?1253845004593
And those who want it all in a docking station have options that combine 3.5 jack, 6 pin audio, and 5 pin USB:
http://cgi.ebay.com/US-SYNC-CRADLE-...ries?hash=item4148d5a416&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Apparently, with these connectors you can plug in the proprietary headset AND the USB, and it will charge and give you music at the same time. I'm guessing that when a headset is connected, the USB data function is disabled and only the charge gets through? If it is possible to split one cable coming out of the phone into USB/charging and EMU audio, then why can't they split it into USB/charging and 3.5mm?
It seems like they assumed that since the one port on the back was 11 pin, we would be able to get both sync and audio. But in fact, the 11 pins apparently only serve to add voltage to an audio connection rather than function as an audio/data/charging combo.
I looked carefully at all the connectors, and it occurred to me that the supplied USB data cable (with the phone) doesn't have the audio pins at all, and that the headset adapter, which is detected as audio, doesn't seem to have the data pins(or not very clearly). Meanwhile, the docking station has the pins and is detected as audio, even when no speakers or headset are connected. So I thought that maybe if I covered up the audio pins, then the phone would detect the cable as data. So I tried covering the audio pins on the docking station (where it connects to the phone) with plastic and then docking. Didn't work - no audio detected, but no USB detected either, although charging worked. nice try. So there must be something beyond the mere absence or presence of those audio pins that tells the phone when something is audio or data. By the way, I did try connecting an ordinary powered USB to the back of the station and then docking the phone: no data, still audio. Same thing covering up audio pins: no data, no audio, only charging.
Based on my reading of this post,
http://androidforums.com/t-mobile-g1/4480-how-create-emu-3-5mm-headphone-jack-adaptor.html
it seems that these things are made so that that certain connections between the pins signal the detection as audio. Perhaps any cables with 11 pins are assumed by the phone to be audio, although they may still take advantage of the USB charging capability?
So, what would be the easiest way to turn the docking station in to something at least as capable as an audio/data adapter? (I have an idea:remove the guts of the docking station, buy the 4-in-1 adapter, and then somehow stick the phone connector through the now empty 3.5mm port and up through the top of the docking station, in which case I've paid $25 for a pretty plastic shell? xD)
Or maybe it would be totally not worth the trouble, just to be able to stand my phone up on a matching white pod when I can get more functions out of an ugly black box?
Don't exactly understand that post...but
I Just found a couple of eBay items:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300364672611#shId
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/USB-Dock-Cradle-HotSync-Charger-for-HTC-Magic-G2-Google_W0QQitemZ160367139541QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_MobilePhoneAccessories?hash=item2556a05ad5
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/USB-Cradle-Battery-Charger-Data-Sync-for-HTC-Magic-G2_W0QQitemZ250515922651QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_MobilePhoneAccessories?hash=item3a53e99edb
Would these things be able to:
- Charge my phone via USB/AC
- Sync my phone via USB, or at least allow me to access my SD card from the computer?
Cheers
I have been debating getting one of these since day one and looked at it when I was in the tmo store the other day...
I can agree with you about buying 3rd party and not paying the premium but with the htc's pins you gotta be careful... I've been screwed too many times with that stupid thing and I'm pretty sure their still one of the only companies that havent released their pin sequence (hense why theirs not very many 3rd party htc items)
ebay has a few but the ones I saw were only a couple bucks cheaper and personally I would rather spend the 2 extra bucks and have the real thing not a Chinese knock off but from what Ive heard I wouldn't spend the $30 or whatever it is for something that only charges my phone...
I bought from this seller a couple months ago. It's the same one they sell in-store for half the price. I use it in my car for playing through my stereo so I haven't used it for syncing.
T-Mobile myTouch Docking Station - Black
Bought the oem car charger and dock love them both... On ebay for more then half the cost!!!
awdlexusis said:
Bought the oem car charger and dock love them both... On ebay for more then half the cost!!!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Got the link for that???
I ended up buying this one : eBay
Works and all, it's perfect except for the fact that the battery slot at the back for charging an extra battery is useless for me and takes up extra room.
Xpire said:
Got the link for that???
I ended up buying this one : eBay
Works and all, it's perfect except for the fact that the battery slot at the back for charging an extra battery is useless for me and takes up extra room.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yeah give me a minute...or search ebay for tmobile mytouch docking station, pulls right up!
Xpire said:
Got the link for that???
I ended up buying this one : eBay
Works and all, it's perfect except for the fact that the battery slot at the back for charging an extra battery is useless for me and takes up extra room.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
i use both this one with the extra battery charging slot and the tmobile one. this one is a straight out usb charger and the base makes a great night table stand for the phone because it is well balanced and when reaching to kill the alarm clock or unlocking to swipe down notification bar or answering call and using speakerphone the device doesn't tip over. i have a second oem battery kept full all the time and swap as needed. the tmobile one is more sleek in design and matches the sapphire's lines but the usb connection puts phone in headset mode. i keep this charger on my desk at work and the drawback is that i can't use speakerphone since it is always in headset mode. i don't need to pc sync ever so i can't give an opinion on that.
I have this dock right now, had the one linked above before, sprayed both white.
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This one is better IMO, I use speakerphone during calls when docked and this one doesn't need the power plug in to charge, everything is done via USB so only 1 cable.
Has anyone else got a home dock and is having problems getting it to output video?
I have 4 mpeg-4 files that work on the standard player brilliantly, but if I ask it to output via HDMI, the monitor/ TV stays blank although the video no longer shows on the Streak screen.
As the Streak asks me if I want to Switch to HMDI I presume it knows there is a connection... plus on both my monitor (using an HMDI to DVI cable) and TV (HDMI to HDMI cable) the monitor/ TV doesn't go into standby, which it would if there was no signal being received. If I take the HMDI cable out of the dock, the monitor says no signal being received but plugging it back in doesn't make it show the video that's playing...
I know it can work as in between all the failures, just once I have had the video playing on my monitor through the cable as expected (I did nothing different but can't make it do it again)
Am I missing something obvious to make it work?
All the other functions seem to work fine - though I was surprised that if you plug in speakers (or headphones) sound still comes out of the Streak. Is it meant to?!
Mine should be here tomorrow so will let you know then
I've still had no joy with the dock... Tried all sorts of file types and conversions but nothing works. The Streak registers the HDMI cable is inserted, asks me if I want to output, if I say yes, the vid disappears from the Streak screen but the other end never gets it apparently.
I phoned Dell who, after 20 minutes of really lame questions - had I plugged the cable in... - and being put on hold, told me to take the phone back to O2 and ask for another . As my Streak is over 28 days old I'll be Streak-less for at least 10 days.
And then if the problem is with the dock not the Streak?!!
Any other home dock users out there, got any suggestions?
Sorry if this is too obvious, but have you tried a different hdmi cable? My dock works fine but I' ve had a similar problem with a htpc.
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
My dock is working fine
I have tried three different HDMI cables, although through the same TV as we only have one with HDMI. I also tried an HDMI to DVI to my monitor which also doesn't work.
Dell think it might be the Streak, O2 think the dock... Neither want responsibility!
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
samstables said:
Has anyone else got a home dock and is having problems getting it to output video?
I have 4 mpeg-4 files that work on the standard player brilliantly, but if I ask it to output via HDMI, the monitor/ TV stays blank although the video no longer shows on the Streak screen.
As the Streak asks me if I want to Switch to HMDI I presume it knows there is a connection... plus on both my monitor (using an HMDI to DVI cable) and TV (HDMI to HDMI cable) the monitor/ TV doesn't go into standby, which it would if there was no signal being received. If I take the HMDI cable out of the dock, the monitor says no signal being received but plugging it back in doesn't make it show the video that's playing...
I know it can work as in between all the failures, just once I have had the video playing on my monitor through the cable as expected (I did nothing different but can't make it do it again)
Am I missing something obvious to make it work?
All the other functions seem to work fine - though I was surprised that if you plug in speakers (or headphones) sound still comes out of the Streak. Is it meant to?!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Well, this may be something to consider:
Are you sure that the DVI monitor you are connecting is able to decode HDCP signals?
The HDMI output of the Streak may be HDCP encoded, and though the monitor might see the connected input, it may not be able to decode it. Your source files may not be HDCP encoded, but the output channel (your Dell Streak Dock) probably is. Have you tried to output your dock in a different system? An HDMI-equipped TV perhaps?
See here:
http://tv.about.com/od/hdtv/a/hdmidvihdcp.htm
and here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-bandwidth_Digital_Content_Protection
PS.
After reading your post again Iss that you have tried in two different devices, and they both fail... there are region locks in the HDCP interface as well, so you may have incompatible outputs on the digital side.
I would still try more combinations (or even ROM builds) before I rule out the issue as being your Streak and/or your dock.
Do you have anyone with another Streak/Dock/Monitor to rule out all possibilities?
It is sad that we have to go through that mess at times, but there are lots of digital devices, that make the 'Plug and Play' , 'Plug and Pray' Sadly :$
Thanks for the comprehensive reply vagelis (which by the way comes out as "bagels" using Swype!)
I don't have access to any other DVI or Hdmi screens - I'm sure my other half is taking it as a sure sign we should buy a new tv!
Dell have, thankfully, agreed to replace my dock so hopefully tomorrow I can feel not quite so stupid when/if it works or not!
Perhaps O2 may have even released the promised 2.1 update & really make my day!
Sent from my Dell Streak using XDA App
Saw a nice video on YouTube about a guy who mounted his Streak on his Harley using the home dock, and figured at the least, the dock would make a good starting point for a car installation. All other mounting options require that you not only plug in the power connector at the bottom of the Streak, but also a cable into the headphone jack to get audio out, and, in my understanding at least, with the dock you can just plug the Streak into it, and it should turn off the Streak's speakers and direct the output to the dock's audio-out connector(s). Since the dock has disappeared from Dell's website (at least in the US, still listed in the UK), can someone who has one tell me what type of audio out connectors it has? Don't suppose there's any way of getting a back-up camera to display on the Streak, eh?
Also, what sort of power connector does the home dock have? Something I can adapt to be powered by the car?
The 30 pin dock connector supports:
USB out
USB charging in (2.0A)
USB dock sense
USB-OTG in
HDMI out
Line out
It reroutes though hdmi/lineout by sensing what's plugged in.
Lineout is sensed by being docked, hdmi is sensed by being connected.
The dock has no active chips, it's merely traces that run from port to port.
The audio out is 3.5mm stereo. Get a 3.5mm to RCA stereo cable.
The power cable comes with the dock. It's a standard USB connector on one end, and a prorietary connection on the back of the dock.
You can connect power off of a 12v car adapter that you can plug a standard cable into. I got the adapter from RadioShack. They make a nice 2 Amp USB cigarette lighter adapter. Get the 2 Amp.
I've been running a home dock in my car for at least 6 months. It works like a champ. I used a piece of flat aluminum bent into an L to hold the dock and place pressure on the bottom portion of the tablet to create enough resistance so the tablet doesn't fly out. I used rubber feet I got from RadioShack placed on the L bracket so as not to scratch the tablet and provide the needed resistance.
Mounting the dock will vary from car to car. Getting the dock mounted and stable is the hardest part. Again you need to have enough resistance on the tablet when docked so that it doesn't go airborne when you take a hard corner or launch your car off the line.
I drive my car like I stole it, on a daily basis. I haven't had the tablet come out of the mount yet.
No way to wire in a back up camera. You'd have to bring the video in wireless somehow. It would be cool, but more trouble than it's worth IMHO. If you go for a back up cam and get it working well let us know.
Cool, just found one for $50 and $2 shipping. I've got a good bit of dash real estate on my Mountaineer, where a Kenwood 7" double-DIN touchscreen/nav is now installed. Figure there's room for the dock and a standard DIN HU behind where the tablet will sit.
Will it run dual-screen with the dock? I'd like to convert the HDMI out to run video to the rear monitor. I'm cool with it displaying the same video onscreen as the external monitor.
The hdmi out mirrors what's on the screen, but on the s7 it only outputs at 720p and not 1080p like other t2 tabs. I dont believe you can set it to anything but mirror.
Thinking about the camera, was wondering if some sort of wireless TCP/IP camera might work. I know there are apps to view them on android, the trick would be getting it networked to either the streak or my cell phone (which the streak will be wirelessly tethered to).
magicland said:
Thinking about the camera, was wondering if some sort of wireless TCP/IP camera might work. I know there are apps to view them on android, the trick would be getting it networked to either the streak or my cell phone (which the streak will be wirelessly tethered to).
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
As I understand it the dock also has a mini USB host port. An OTG cable to a USB camera might work.
Finally got around to installing the dock in my Mountaineer. Just for a "proof of concept" trial I put in an old Kenwood single-DIN HU that I had lying around. Used 3M heavy duty "Velcro" on both the bottom of the dock and in the slot in the dash adapter (this one is from Metra, Scosche also makes one, but I don't know how well that will work).
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Streak is tethered to my cell, so I get internet access for nav, tune-in radio pro, Iheart radio, Google Music, Netflix, etc. Unit is powered by the OEM T-Mobile car adapter. No video out yet (and I was wondering if the line out audio cuts out if the HDMI is used or not). I've got the USB cable hooked up and running to the glove box for access, but I've got no use for it as yet.
Simple, easy hookup, but it looks pretty decent when the tablet is hooked up, and despite washboard roads and high speed sharp turns, it stays put and working. Now I just wish there was an app that would allow me to use the tablet as a bluetooth adapter for my phone, so I can place and answer calls...
Hi folks, I have my chromecast connected directly to my Denon avr 3310 and powered from the USB port on my TV. Chromecast is working as expected. I get dolby digital plus with no problems and great hd pictures from Netflix. Trouble happens when I switch back to my satellite box. That's connected to my TV via hdmi and receiver via optical. Since adding chromecast I get audio dropouts when watching satellite. How do I know it's chromecast? When I remove the USB cable powering the chromecast from the TV all audio issues dissappear. Anyone have similar issues? Cheers mick
I would do what was suggested and move the usb to maybe a wall adapter for power for troubleshooting. Also make sure that somehow your optical input is not assigned to the same source as your chromecast hdmi input and double check all your input assignments on the Denon.
007shark said:
I would do what was suggested and move the usb to maybe a wall adapter for power for troubleshooting. Also make sure that somehow your optical input is not assigned to the same source as your chromecast hdmi input and double check all your input assignments on the Denon.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Tried everything but in the end changed my satellite receiver to send audio via hdmi to the reciever and everything is playing nice now
micks_address said:
Hi folks, I have my chromecast connected directly to my Denon avr 3310 and powered from the USB port on my TV. Chromecast is working as expected. I get dolby digital plus with no problems and great hd pictures from Netflix. Trouble happens when I switch back to my satellite box. That's connected to my TV via hdmi and receiver via optical. Since adding chromecast I get audio dropouts when watching satellite. How do I know it's chromecast? When I remove the USB cable powering the chromecast from the TV all audio issues dissappear. Anyone have similar issues? Cheers mick
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here with a Denon 790 and analog sources. The Chromecast is plugged on back of the receiver inside a bookshelf nook, so disconnecting it is impractical.
The workaround is to drill down the menu through Input Assign > [HDMI] for the port used by Chromecast > set to "None". When using the Chromecast again, reverse the procedure and reassociate the port. Don't forget which port number holds the Chromecast.
It's inconvenient and my wife explicitly Does Not Like It, but the dropouts stop when you disassociate the port. You eventually memorize the remote key sequence without needing the onscreen menu.
Hope this helps, even after 3+ years.
Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's £30 for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.
Crin said:
Hi All,
So I had what I thought was the genius idea of buying a Chrome Cast to hook up to my old projector for instant Netflix et al. cinema in my living room, it's all set up... screen, speakers everything but there's just one small problem, no picture.
The reason it isn't straightforward forward is that my projector is old enough not to have an HDMI port, though it does say that it supports HDMI on it's DVI port using an adaptor. (Which I can't find). Also of course I'd have no sound.
What I have...
So with a little research I bought this HDMI to VGA + 3.5mm Jack Audio Cable Video Converter Adapter, I also bought a couple of gender changers, one VGA and one HDMI to get the whole lot to stick together.
The projector is an Optoma ThemeScene H57, so quite old but actually pretty decent (hence reluctance to take the plunge on a new one and also because this was supposed to be a cheap project)
What is happening...
What I'm experiencing is a black screen, which I am now attributing to HDCP problems... the projector scans and detects that there is a source plugged in the way you'd expect and looks like it's gone through the process of adjusting to that source signal and then just happily displays a black screen. Occasionally it also says "Out of Range". The sound comes out garbled when trying to play netflix or youtube.
I have tried it with a VGA to DVI adaptor into the DVI input to witht he same result.
I have also tried plugging my Nexus 10 into the HDMI input on the convertor, this yields a different result, white static, but still no picture.
The projector does work... it's even briefly displayed a chrome logo when I tried factory resetting the Chromecast while it was plugged into the projector (via the adaptor obviously) but then just returned to the black screen.
A weird caveat to all this is if I play something on Play Music then I still get a black screen but the sound comes out fine.
What I plan to try
I read that HDCP can cause problems like this and that it can sometimes be fixed using a powered HDMI splitter. Apparently this negotiates the HDCP handshake with the Chromecast and then passes on the signal to the two output ports, which sounds a bit dodgy, why is it so simple to bypass? Plus it's for one of those which means my cheap project is getting more and more expensive.
So...
Any help on this would be really REALLY appreciated. Please.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm afraid the only solution is to get an HDCP compliant projector...
CCast will only pass on HDCP info from the Device it is plugged into, but has no HDCP of it's own. And it can not be faked.
The Adapter will also break any HDCP as HDCP is meant to deny you the ability to do what your trying to do in the name of not letting you make copies of the content.
You will be fine with Content that does not require a HDCP signature to play (self ripped movies or non-DRM materials) but something like Netflix has little chance of working without some HDCP compliant device being connected the the CCast.
You can get a standard HDMI DVI adaptor for cheap, and maybe this will allow HDCP information to be kept. However you may be unable to keep the audio stream without a more elaborate device.
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?
Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes you're essentially converting a Digital signal to analog and HDCP only works via Digital.
A Real HDMI to DVI adapter as suggested may help but make sure in the specs it says it will pass HDCP.
And do make sure it also has Audio Breakout.
Crin said:
According to this page...
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Optoma-H57.htm
It is actually HDCP compliant... so does that mean it's the adaptor that's breaking it? Is there such a thing as an HDCP respectful adaptor with an Audio splitter?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your projector is a little newer than my Sony VPL-HS10, but it might have the same issue - the marketing wasn't 100%. My VPL-HS10 initially said it was HDCP-compliant on the DVI-D port, but ended up that it isn't. Well, it might be for a few select devices, but it isn't up-to-spec for the general standard.
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
Your other potential problem is that the adapter may not be converting the HDMI timings over to VGA, and rather expecting the receiving device to compensate. Some can, some can't.
The specs for your projector says it has a DVI-I port, so it might accept analog on that port.
So first I'd try connecting DVI-to-VGA adapter (the ones that normally come with video cards to get VGA out of the DVI port) and connecting Chromecast --HDMI--> HDMI-to-VGA --VGA--> DVI-to-VGA adapter --DVI--> Projector and see if you get a different result on the DVI input - sometimes the scaler is separate or different for different inputs.
If that doesn't work, I recommend HDfury2 or newer - beware of counterfeits as there are many fakers online. I have successfully used HDfury products with my Sony projector from various sources. You'll want the HDfury2 or newer to get the audio breakout, which is a 3.5mm (1/8-inch) analog stereo and digital (optical TOSlink).
bhiga said:
What you really need is an HDCP stripper, but those are illegal in most parts (especially the US).
.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not to mention probably as expensive as a new Projector with HDMI and HDCP support! LOL
Crin, did you ever get this solved?
I bought the same stupid converter you showed in the image.