Database Develop

Headphones extension cord

I've been thinking about this for some time as I have some nice headphones (HeadDirect RE0) that I use with my Defy. But I miss having a microphone (taking/making calls without too much hassle). So I thought of cutting off the headphones of a Nokia stereo headset and putting a 3.5 plug so that I can have an extension cord with microphone.
I searched around the net but didn't find a good pinout so I opened the Nokias. They only have a 470ohm resistor (if I remember well). I tried to rewire those (to get a button push) with no success.
So I opened the original Motorola headset (quite easy and with no damage) to find quite a circuit inside. I'm putting the a picture of the circuit here, maybe someone with more experience can help me. The circuit is quite small and as I have minimum experience with circuits...
PS: I was thinking of getting a third party headset, but at about 10 euros... kinda expensive to break.

Heh, this is how i modded my headphones - got Creative EP-630 headphones, but no microphone, and sucking (compared to senn) motorola ones.... ...and voila!
Take pilot/microphone apart --> solder out old connections --> cut new headphones cord somewhere like 20 cm from headphone -->solder them in to original connection points.
EDIT:
Ohhh... and the worst part was to carefully remove original rubber gasket around original cables which were to be removed, and pulling/glueing new cabling through it. But the effect is awesome - there is almost no visual hint that someone modded them
..and sound quality....

I was thinking that I could get away with it without taking apart the original headset, but it looks like I'm slowly getting there...
Thanks for your reply!

I have a sony headset with mic, but they have the old sony ericsson socket. Could it be possible to solder a 3.5 jack onto them. Are the even selling 3.5 jacks with 4 rings?

I don't know if you could find a 4-rings 3.5 jack? Check the closest electronic parts shop. Or, if you have a Nokia headset lying around like I had...
From what I've found out the mic and headphones work OK just connected to the respective rings*, but what I couldn't make work is the button. As you can see in the attached picture, there are a few SMD capacitors.
*if I remember well, from tip: Left, Right, Mic, Ground (Corrected: Left, Right, Ground, Mic!!!)
Cheers!

NO.
There is right:
Left, Right, Ground, Mic
This is my modification:

Gutted a nook color and perma-installed it in a Smart Car. :)

I've decided to do it! I gutted and installed a nook color in my stereo space. It works great and is way better than the stock radio for way cheaper than a 7" lcd head unit. Let me explain..
I gutted the nook and took measurements for its screen size against the opening of a double-DIN cavity for car stereos and height-wise it is perfect, but width, it falls a bit short. Went with it anyway, resoldered the home key to lead wires to a button on the face plate and covered up the spacing with some black plastic matching the housing. Works great! Power and volume buttons are also relocated. I'll keep the volume buttons as volume buttons until I get an external pre-amp with a volume potentiometer, see below. Once I get that set up, I'll re-map the volume buttons to back and menu for ease of navigation without button savior.
Heres the hiccup I had... I was planning on running the headphone jack output straight to the amp, turns out that was too quiet.. upon gutting the nook I realized that the speaker isnt soldered to the board, and only makes contact by springs. The speaker contact pads? Pre-amped, but outputs both channels through one output as opposed to headphone stereo.. For now, it sits as the pre-amped speaker output to amp and speakers, but I will be looking somewhere for a decent headphone/small preamp to run stereo to all 4 channels of my handy-dandy Sure 4x100w class D mini amp.
It has some serious volume for a 5x5" pcb with a heatsink! Running on a 19v 130w laptop charger off of a 12v inverter, I am able to get pretty good sound out of it. Because the power supply is a bit lacking, its nowhere near max quality/volume. Just loud enough to start to rumble the doors. I'd like to find a 12v to 32v 10a step up but I've not been able to find one.. Tried to wire a 12v to 5v dc step down converter to the nook's battery terminal but it failed to see it. Not sure of the wiring involved in there for detecting battery charge and voltage, but the battery has 5 wires. If anyone knows how I can wire this to run off of a 12v to 5v 1a USB charger, thatd be awesome...
So nook's speaker output -> amp input -> 4 speaker channels, one to each of the 4 speakers that I have in the car. Added two additional speakers in the rear pillar covers, in addition to the stock 2 in the doors. Swapped the stock ones for Polk 6.5" 100w speakers.
I didnt take too many pictures along the way but everything is so exposed you can see how all the wires are ran throughout the setup. I also added a headphone input to the RCA jacks so you can plug in a different player to the front of the unit straight to the amp but again, it wont be pre-amped. Works fine enough as is for phone conversations which is all I really plan on using it for anyway.
Heres pics of what I have as of now. I'll be either stencil spray painting or putting decals on to mark what the buttons do. Future volume potentiometer will go up top right. I'll put on a fancier aux bezel as well to clean that look up a bit.
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What I'm really curious about is if anyone knows an app that lets the nook receive audio from another device, and if I can control that device through the nook, essentially allowing me to run pandora or internet radio on my phone, and have it transmit to the nook. That's probably a far fetched app and very specific but I'd like to know if anyone knows of anything that they use for other purposes that may suit this.
Any input would be awesome. Again, I'm not going for pristine audio quality, just more functionality. It already sounds better than my stock radio and it adds way more functionality than stock as well. If you have any cool app suggestions for in car use, that'd be awesome too. (planning on running torque pro on it too, should be awesome for data logging and whatever else it can do... I'll let you know.)

That looks great! Well done! The separate controls are a very nice touch.
As far as pandora, etc. Why not install the applications on the nook and tether through your phone (maybe you gave an explanation, but I'm bouncing back and forth on look at this and work, mainly came for the pics )
Make sure you get tether GPS! If I ever decide to do something similar, I pay ping you for a write-up on doing this
Again, awesome job!

I already have tether GPS but its nothing without a data connection and I don't pay for tethering so id rather not use it. Same thing with Pandora.
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App

I don't know if I should be sorry for the Nook or stunned by your work...
Looking at my Nook, how it sits in it's Book Cover, dealing me joy with countless books, Music, Videos, Internet Browsing, etc. every day, I would feel kinda sorry tearing it apart.
However... I've got a feeling the Nook feels at home where you put him.

mhornfeck72205 said:
I already have tether GPS but its nothing without a data connection and I don't pay for tethering so id rather not use it. Same thing with Pandora.
Sent from my DROIDX using XDA App
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So why not root your phone and use a tethering app?
Google has their own wifi tether app (other than AOSP, which is usually ripped out or blocked).
http://code.google.com/p/android-wifi-tether/
There are also quite a few others on the market.

Nice work. Geez, the NC is the new car PC, between this and the Jeep guy (both beautiful jobs though)

Very impressive work! I'm blown away -- you did a great job.

I guess you voided your warranty by now.

How are you powering the Nook? through the proprietary cable?
I am puzzled about your 12 volt to 5v statement, and would think it would be ok to wire a usb connector to a 5V 2A+ regulator. (USB jack has to be configured for high power out spec like nook charger).

Thanks everyone!
I'm powering the nook from the nook wall charger also plugged into the 12v inverter straight to the charging usb port with the stock cable. I'd love to be able to have something wired straight to the battery terminals on the board so it would be a key-on-nook-on kind of setup or maybe switched so I dont have to leave the key in to listen to music.. That way I dont have to worry about keeping the battery charged up(it draws more than the charger puts out with the screen always on, so it slowly goes down)

biohazrd51 said:
So why not root your phone and use a tethering app?
Google has their own wifi tether app (other than AOSP, which is usually ripped out or blocked).
http://code.google.com/p/android-wifi-tether/
There are also quite a few others on the market.
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Click to collapse
Phone is already rooted, customized in every way possible, and running Liberty rom. I have a droid x and last I heard when p3droid removed the tether patch from tbh app, they were either sending out texts to people found to be tethering, charging them for the monthly rate, or charging them for all of the data they've used.Id rather not end up having Verizon charge me for the tethering if they actually are doing that.

Why not get a bluetooth-to-audio adapter and put the receiver right next to the transmitter chip? Works great but short range which is no problem in a permanent install.
It would also give you a line level output and you wouldn't have to deal with the high pass filtering that nukes your low shelf.
I am not familiar with a bluetooth-to-line adapter, but, they must exist and can't cost more than $100....
Sent from my SPH-D710 using XDA App

Looking to cut corners and just use the bluetooth that's built into both devices already. Last resort is buying extras..

mhornfeck72205 said:
Phone is already rooted, customized in every way possible, and running Liberty rom. I have a droid x and last I heard when p3droid removed the tether patch from tbh app, they were either sending out texts to people found to be tethering, charging them for the monthly rate, or charging them for all of the data they've used.Id rather not end up having Verizon charge me for the tethering if they actually are doing that.
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I understand. I remember hearing about that, but thought it was iPhone users only. I get messages from tmobile only when I tether with my laptop, but changing the browser user agent gets around it (they also don't automatically add the charge like verizon and at&t). I think that is carrier's primary means of detection. I stream pandora in the car to my old iphone (I still have the dock) using tether on my phone and never had one issue.
An alternative would be great for you, but I don't see too many problems. Besides, if they tack it on, it'd only be $20 or so for a month then you can remove it from your plan.

tried to do it anyway with the link posted above for the google wireless tether and it still always brings me to the https://dunsp.vzw.com/newSelfProvisioning/SelfProvisioning website.
:-(

Heres a picture of my car running the torque pro app.
Its pretty sweet when the car tells you "Engine at operating temperature" and "Icy Conditions possible" and even more. There are countless gauges and graphs and widgets you can track with this app, only in the pro version. It is easily worth the $18+$5 for the dongle and app... amazing...

Only thing is you have ended up with mono sound and not stereo
no way!

DIY Bluetooth Headphones

Taken directly from my Imgur account dscf0000. All (or close to all) my XDA pics are hosted there. I used to use my own web server, but FTP was such a pain and one of the servers were shut down so some of my older posts have broken image links that I'm too lazy to track down. Speaking of lazy, that's why I just copy and pasted this.
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This is the Ronin "Nomaster" Wireless headphones. They are usually $48, but were half price when I got them. The headphone itself is terrible; the all-plastic build is very low quality. The hinges feel like they will break every time you snap them into place for use. The speaker drivers are indeed 40 mm in diameter, and technically the range is 20-20,000 Hz, but to be honest they sound like absolute crap.
The cushions are the type typically found on dollar shop headphones - they are kinda soft, but they're kinda not, if you know what I mean. Half of the muddy low-and-high-less sound coming from the speaker drivers is escaping through the gap between your ears and the cushions.
Now moving onto the visual aesthetics, the headphone bears a striking vague resemblance to the previous generation Beats headphone line (think Studio, Solo). Glossy plastic (comes in a few different colors such as blue, red, white and 'salmon'), foldable design, cushioned headband etc. In comparison, they make Beats look and sound like the best headphone ever. The only thing that it has that the Beats doesn't have is Bluetooth functionality, really. Until now.
No pictures of the process; sorry. It's boring anyway - just some soldering and burning of plastic with my trusty soldering iron. Essentially, all that I did was swap the Beats Studio's original ANC circuit board with the Ronin's Bluetooth board. The Ronins could only operate using Bluetooth, so when the battery's out of juice, you're out of luck. There was no wired alternative, but now there is.
Speaking of battery, the Studios now has a rechargeable Li-ion battery in place of its 2 x AAA battery compartment. As seen here, I've made a few adjustments to accommodate for the new square 400 mAh cell. When this runs out, I can simply plug in a cable and use the headphone passively.
The new Bluetooth circuit board is surprisingly appropriately sized to fit into the Studio's right earcup. The diameter of the board is nearly identical to the Beat's original board. However, the inefficiently designed Bluetooth circuit board, with the awkwardly placed Bluetooth radio chipset protruding from the side. made the board just not fit into the earcup. So I had to file down both sides of the board and remove some of the plastic inside the earcup to squeeze the new board in.
Due to the chip being wired to both the two speaker drivers and the headphone jack (originally used for input), the headphone jack also doubles as an audio output from the Bluetooth circuit when it is active. This was actually an unexpected development, as I only planned to directly wire the right channel from the headphone jack to the right channel out contact from the Bluetooth circuit board. I only expected the right channel to work from Bluetooth when another earphone was connected to the headphone jack, but in the end, both channels worked flawlessly.
This is the stealthily located circular charging port for the 400 mAh rechargeable battery.
The finished product looks more or less exactly the same as before. The charging port is hidden when the earcup is bent downwards.
The wireless Ronin headphones are now wired using an old earphone cable. Specifically, it was from this earphone: http://i.imgur.com/0E5TeWs.jpg
*XDA Exclusive!!
What can be done using this unoccupied Beats ANC circuit? You shall see soon.

Awesome write up! I love DIY threads Actually, what a coincidence because I was just browsing head-fi.org to get details on converting my ATH-M50 from hard-wired cable to pluggable (http://www.head-fi.org/t/553483/ath-m50-removable-cable-mod/45#post_8075357). The mod itself looks easy, but I'm worried about soldering those braided wires and how it will affect the sound quality.
Btw, I think its great that you post it in here but I still believe it will not get as much attention as it would in Accessories section or in head-fi forum. Maybe more views in Note 2 section, but not quite sure if people are as interested? Not a negative reply, just that you put so much work into this - I think it deserves a bigger audience who will appreciate it.
One question I have. How did you implement play/vol/track controls in your current setup hosted inside of Beats? Also, really neat how you have a hidden charging port, I really like that.

vectron said:
Awesome write up! I love DIY threads Actually, what a coincidence because I was just browsing head-fi.org to get details on converting my ATH-M50 from hard-wired cable to pluggable (http://www.head-fi.org/t/553483/ath-m50-removable-cable-mod/45#post_8075357). The mod itself looks easy, but I'm worried about soldering those braided wires and how it will affect the sound quality.
Btw, I think its great that you post it in here but I still believe it will not get as much attention as it would in Accessories section or in head-fi forum. Maybe more views in Note 2 section, but not quite sure if people are as interested? Not a negative reply, just that you put so much work into this - I think it deserves a bigger audience who will appreciate it.
One question I have. How did you implement play/vol/track controls in your current setup hosted inside of Beats? Also, really neat how you have a hidden charging port, I really like that.
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Thank you for your consideration, @vectron. I'd like to seek a larger audience who would be more interested in my works in the audio genre. As I've mentioned before, I'm not much of an audiophile, but I simply love modifying audio hardware.
Speaking of braided cables, I've noticed that when I'm using the Beats via Bluetooth, the left channel has considerably more audible noise than the right channel. I'm guessing it's because the multi-core cable running through the headband is not shielded or braided in any way. And because the left channel needs to travel through this cable from the circuit board, which is in the right earcup, it shares the same unshielded cable that the li-ion battery uses to provide power to the circuit.
This was worse in the Beats' original configuration, where both channels shared the same unshielded cable, as the stereo input from the left earcup needed to travel to the circuit in the right.
I've actually done a detachable cable conversion to headphones a few times already. One time, I salvaged an audio port from a computer motherboard for parts! Speaking of which, I think the ATH-M50 mod won't affect the audio quality much. If you're worried though, just wrap the individual (insulated, of course) channel connections with alfoil, then wrap the whole jack as well.
Separating the power cable from the audio cable gives me an idea...
I will make a Head-Fi account under the same username soon, then post all of my headphone stuff there.

I'll tell you about the media controls soon. I'm on my Note 2 and out for dinner, away from all my stuff so I'm also away from my headphones.

Can't wait to find out about media controls! I could only image you retrofitting original buttons into Beats, how else would you trigger those control push buttons? Take some pics Btw, another way for you to get exposure is with YT video. Just get a tripod, a camera (even can use Note 2 with tripods like those gorilla pods I reviewed), and start a channel. I would subscribe to it for sure. With head-fi, don't get intimidated by these guys. I don't consider myself audiophile either; don't have free time or patience to train my ears for that. But I notice a lot of the people visit that site not just to show off but to learn. So any audio related contribution will be appreciated in there.
Regarding pluggable cable mod, as much as I'm itching to do that, I decided to put it on-hold for now. The whole purpose of that mod is to make headphone more portable and/or to add detachable cable remote control. M50 is too bulky to walk around outside, and it will be weird make phone calls with these cans. I absolutely love them for everyday use with my laptop or watching movies on Note 2. That 11' cable is just wrapped around and I just ordered a few fancy velcro straps for a dollar (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171095544775?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) to manage cable. I really don't want to chop it off, after all its OFC litz wire. Maybe that's a reason people had problem soldering it. A number of people reported that after that pluggable cable mod the volume between L/R became uneven or the sound changed a bit. M50 are fantastic studio headphones with an amazing value for $100. Not exactly perfect audiophile sound quality, but damn close.
And just to put all this in perspective of Note 2, it's always a challenge to get headphones that integrate perfectly with our phablet. In-ear headphones usually have i-control where multi-function button works great with Android, but volume only works for apple devices. You can get a custom 3.5mm male-to-male cable with Samsung controls (I'm waiting for it now from Luna shop), but in general going Wireless is the only way to have full transport and volume control with your Note 2 because its part of universal Bluetooth protocol.

Only the center play/pause button works with the cover on. Long pressing it for 3 seconds turns it on/off, and pressing it for 5 seconds kicks it into pairing mode.
On the inside of the button, I superglued two pieces of rubber band on the bottom of the button, so it reverts to its original position after being pressed. I might relocate the microphone to where the power switch used to be because it has a hole that allows sound to go through. I might not, because I would not use an apparently disconnected Beats headset to make phone calls in public.
The other 4 buttons I never use anyway. The volume controls are independent of the Android volume level, and my custom ROM allows me to long press the volume up/down buttons to go to the next/previous track respectively. I only really need the button in the middle to play/pause and toggle the power.

You guessed it - the orange sticker on the inside of the button is actually a home button sticker for an iPhone 5. It is convex, so it is an ideal shape to press the button on the circuit board.

Well, I must say that the Beats Wireless have a much more accessible and convenient button layout than my DIY mod. But mine is an over-ear design, so that makes up for everything in my book.

[Q] Audio jack not working

My 3.5 mm audio output has been having increasing problems and it won't recognize most jacks anymore, including my earphones. Do you know of any trick to make it work, or would I need to replace the part completely to have it working again?

I think it depends on the kind of issue you see.
Example:
My audio jack was not working when I received my used Droid 4 from the USA.
I realized that my headphones are not deep enough in the phone. When I push them in a bit more they worked properly, but hey flip out as soon I touch the cable or I move.
1. Look if the Headphone jack is dirty and clean it up: h**ps://motorola-global-portal.custhelp.com/app/answers/prod_answer_detail/a_id/85247/p/30,6720,8096/c/8149,8172
2. If its cleaned and still not working its probably a hardware issue. ( Now you need to find whats broken / not working )
- A weak point is that the feeds of headphone jack are only pushed against the mainboard. I can imagine that carrying the phone in the pocket will bend that feeds. Meaning if you try to use the headphone jack outside of the pocket it will not work properly. You can try to push from the outside of the headphone jack to see if they work then properly. If yes... you need to disassembly the phone... and bend the feeds of the headphone jack back so that they get contact with the mb again.
- In my case after cleaning the headphone jack, the plug still didn't fit into the jack properly. I didn't want to open the Phone since ifixit says its a mess. So I tried to fix it without replacing it. I pushed a pice of toothpick into it to widen the deepest part of the jack. That fixed my Headphone jack. But the risk is there that you completely mess up the jack and you have to replace it completely.
Try at your own risk!

It is VERY easy for lint, dust, and grime to get stuck in the audio input socket. It's happened to my phone several times, since the audio jack isn't covered by any sort of cap. If you turn the phone off, shine a light into the socket, and (gently) dig around with a safety pin, you should be able to get most of the gunk out. It'd surprise you, how much lint can get stuck in there!
If you can find something to cover the audio input socket with, even better.

It was just dirty after all - I had like 3 mm worth of lint inside
I was worried it's some HW issue because different jacks responded differently... Glad it's not I use BT HF most of the time (with 3,5 jack output for headphones), but sometimes I like to plug the phone into my speakers, plus BT isn't that comfy for watching video...
Pipe cleaner wasn't very helpful, but a pin did the trick
Thanks for your help, guys!

[Tutorial] ATOTO A6 Installed on 2013 Dodge Grand Caravan

I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!

Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim

intruda119 said:
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
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See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first

danielqinz said:
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
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I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?

intruda119 said:
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
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You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground

Pictures of sinstall?
Trying to retain my oem backup camera but looks like I purchased the wrong harness. Made a mistake and purchased axxess harness. Will test.

danielqinz said:
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
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Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses

intruda119 said:
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try --
If you find out 3 related wires of SWC, to figure out which 2 wires are the positive of steering wheel control (shorted for "swc"), you can use a multimeter (connect to these 2 wires) to test if the resistor values change when you press different swc buttons, if it does change, it means one of the 2 wires are swc ground, and the other is positive, if not, then go on checking if the resistor values change between the swc ground wire and the other swc wire you found from car harness connector.
If you find out 2 related wires of SWC, either both of them are positive wires or one of them is ground wires. For the positive wires, you can connect them to either “Key” or “Key+” wire of the radio. For ground wire, you should connect it to the thinner ground wire of the radio.
Then you need to program each keys by pressing “Settings ￫Default settings ￫Steering wheel program￫Reset”. Click one key value from ATOTO and it will flicker, when you press one of the keys on steering wheel, the flickering would stop and the status should change, then this key is successfully programmed. Press "Save" to save your setting.
It is important to tap Reset before program it
Also check to see if you get resistive value change to make sure you programmed your SWI module right

I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.

keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried use a multi-meter and get resistive readings? if the module does not output resistive values when you press the buttons, or it produces the same value, it might be the module is bad

Can you please share the specific model of the items you used?
A6?????
for the Can bus what adapter model did you ue please?
Thank you,
danielqinz said:
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
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Click to collapse

keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi !
I have the exact same problem. Did you find a fix ? My car is a Outlander 2015.
Thank you !

PAC Radio Replacement Interface
I am doing the same installation for my 2017 base grand caravan and your tutorial is extremely helpful!
Could you kindly confirm if I would need two different PAC modules for the installation? (PAC Radio Replacement Interface and PAC SWC module)
Thank you!:good::good: