Database Develop

leo headset / headphone manipulation

Hi to everyone,
just to let you know, I have added a section Accessories Modification to Leo Wiki and added a HowTo modify the regular htc headset to in-ear headset... basically a picture HowTo...
see
Leo WIKI Headphone Mod

Very cool... now if I could only find someone to do it for me! Heheh...

derGrafZahl said:
Hi to everyone,
just to let you know, I have added a section Accessories Modification to Leo Wiki and added a HowTo modify the regular htc headset to in-ear headset... basically a picture HowTo...
see
Leo WIKI Headphone Mod
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
very good mate, wanna do mine for me lol......theres no way i can do that.

I just did it a minute ago. I didn't realise my HD2 remote had controls on it as its never been out of the box - so I modified it for my snowboard helmet.
I put a male 3.5mm jack on the end instead of a set of headphones though. Buzzed through the 4 poles on the 3.5mm jack that I was using, and matched them up with the ones inside the remote. I left one of the ground (green) empty as I only needed one ground. Sitting with my helmet on just now listening to music testing it out!!
Thanks for the guide - very simple. I'll get some epoxy at work tomorrow to glue round the edges to make sure the cable doesnt pull out.
My next question is - I have MSVC installed, and the play button activates it. Is there any way to get this remote to control the volume... either normally or through MSVC?
Cheers...

Sounds great! Would like to see a picture if you have one...

derGrafZahl said:
Sounds great! Would like to see a picture if you have one...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its just looks the same - but with a 3.5mm male plug on either end of the remote! I had to label them, as it only works one way round obviously!

Just followed your guide which worked a treat The innards of my remote are slightly different though, no sleeves to hold the wires in place, only this horrible glue/resin which is a real pain to remove. Used some super glue at the end which should hold the wires in place hopefully.
Good guide, thanks. I really hated those HTC earphones!

p3eps said:
I just did it a minute ago. I didn't realise my HD2 remote had controls on it as its never been out of the box - so I modified it for my snowboard helmet.
I put a male 3.5mm jack on the end instead of a set of headphones though. Buzzed through the 4 poles on the 3.5mm jack that I was using, and matched them up with the ones inside the remote. I left one of the ground (green) empty as I only needed one ground. Sitting with my helmet on just now listening to music testing it out!!
Thanks for the guide - very simple. I'll get some epoxy at work tomorrow to glue round the edges to make sure the cable doesnt pull out.
My next question is - I have MSVC installed, and the play button activates it. Is there any way to get this remote to control the volume... either normally or through MSVC?
Cheers...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi I am not sure I understand (probably just dumb) but I would appreciate it if you could explain or perhaps post pictures?

thank you for doing this write up. followed it and it worked perfectly .
had a bit of trouble soldering a connection peice accross the 2 negative points but apart from that it went very well

I've done a slightly different take on this, I snipped the lead between the control module and the headphones and soldered a inline 3.5mm jack socket. This enables me to plug my Sennheiser HD-25 headphones in without having to damage the lead and in fact plug any standard set of headphones in whilst keeping the full functionality of the remote module...

Starfury said:
I've done a slightly different take on this, I snipped the lead between the control module and the headphones and soldered a inline 3.5mm jack socket. This enables me to plug my Sennheiser HD-25 headphones in without having to damage the lead and in fact plug any standard set of headphones in whilst keeping the full functionality of the remote module...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Oh MY GOD I feel sooooo stupid I have had my head in the sand!!
Thanks for a simpler/common sense (less destructive) way
I started the mod on the wiki page and then sat back and thought why don't
I was also looking headphones that have volume control and realised the standard ones don't have volume control.
I will go down to the local store and get some half decent headphones and connect them up.
Just one thing, can you identify the correct wiring to the inline 3.5mm jack socket (pics would be great)

I had it this way on my last sony ericsson cell phone headset. A 3.5mm cable right after the remote button. But the wire was short enough to not make the whole headset cable too long.
A volume control probably can be added like on other headphones. But the leo device won't respond to the volume control, rather a resistor will lower it externaly.
Thanks for contributing all the nice ideas. Keep it up!

Great guide. I used it to blend my crappy Leo headset base to my fab Audio Technica ATH-03 headset - thumping base at last!

It must be me but I am struggling getting this to work well.
I have stripped the cables between the headphones and the remote control unit. This exposes 4 cables - 2 brass, 1 green, 1 red. I intend to wire these two a femail headphone socket so I can just use my own headphones.
The female headphone socket I need to attach these cables to has three terminals only (left, right and centre). I assume the left and right terminals are for red and green. However I have attached these and the sound is tinny. When I push one of the brass coloured cables onto either of the red or green terminal I get bass?
Can someone confirm what the cable connections should be?

The copper colored wire is ground, red and green is left and right channel (don't know which is which, but keep the order). You can solder the two copper wires together but be also shure to get rid of the isolation of each wire or they won't have contact.

derGrafZahl said:
The copper colored wire is ground, red and green is left and right channel (don't know which is which, but keep the order). You can solder the two copper wires together but be also shure to get rid of the isolation of each wire or they won't have contact.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
GROUNDING !! I thought the cables looked a bit wierd when I took off the outer black cover. Now that is why it is tinny and it explains why the connections worked only when I touched the ends of the cables to the 3.5mm jack!!!
However the cables are so fine I am not sure how you would go about stripping any outer layer off. What tool do you use??
Also it appears that the outer coloured layers (red and green) are mixed in with what appears to be strands of what appear to be white fibre??
Note: I have just used tape to temporarily hold the outer female 3.5mm casing steady whilst I solder the connections.
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You can get rid of the isolation by using your solder iron. It basically melts off when it gets hot. But be sure not to free too much wire since you don't want them to connect after you have put everything together. The white fibre wires are a pain ***. Try to cut them of prior to soldering.
*beware: this is rather my noob experience with these headphone wires which I collected over time...* better ask an expert!

Hi,
does someone knows the HD2 headset handsfree pinout?
I want to connect a headset with microphone to the 3,5mm outlet.
I need these pinout to make a adaptor.
The headset I have tried wasn´t able to transmit the speech.
Thanks

Guys,
If you're worried about damaging the in-line controls, then don't access it. You can always do the previously-mentioned method of snipping the line downstream to the remote, and soldering on a 3.5mm port.
If you don't want the added bulk of a port, there's also a third method (which is what I chose to do). Dismantle the actual headphones themselves -- the driver is held to the casing only by a thin elastic band. Once in, you'll see the 2 leads soldered onto the driver. Remove them, untie the stopper knot.
Repeat this with the headphones of your choice, then transplant those onto the line.
This way, you're basically moving the cans onto the factory line, without losing length and putting the remote at risk.
Now all I need to do is find a software solution to use the in-line controls to control GSPlayer....

Here is an image of my HTC inline remote with female 3.5mm jack attached.
And here is an image of my bandaged hand from picking up the wrong end of the soldering iron.
It actually wasn't too much of a difficult job, haven't done any soldering in a while and other than a couple of burns to my fingers it all went swimmingly.
God knows why they dont sell these things separately, defies belief.
Oh and to anyone living in the UK or anywhere else for that matter, I would happily do this job for you if you aren't handy with a soldering iron. Got alot from this forum so its only right to give something back. Obviously you would need to supply the female jack and I would offer no guarantees I'm not going to break you in-line remote but I would do my best . PM me if ya interested.

[GUIDE] Fixing Audio Jack + Wiring Info

I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps

Up Up & away

d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thank you very much Sir.

d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
What is this remote control you speak of?
d4rkkn16ht said:
[*]You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Where would I get such a thing?

Hagenlund said:
What is this remote control you speak of?
Where would I get such a thing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm assuming he is speaking of the in-line remote/amplifier/vol.control most "gaming headsets" come with.*
Quick Google search of "trrs" shot me to Amazon.com :good:

thanks, worked like a charm

Domba333 said:
thanks, worked like a charm
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks a lot.

d4rkkn16ht said:
I've search about this,but I find only questions without proper answer.
Some answers are correct but not clear enough,at least for me (at that time).
So I decided to create this thread to help others who get the same problem with me.
WARNING:
Using Soldering Iron is required.
Don't do this if you are not used to a soldering iron.
Or you can ask someone with the capability using this guide.
THE PROBLEM:
Audio Jack/cable is somewhat broken or audio somewhat has noise or no audio at all.
THE SOLUTIONS:
Buy a new headset
Fix it yourself
To fix it yourself you need to know 3 things:
Where the damage(s) is(are).
Type of Jack
Wiring Diagram
Locating the damage:
Open the remote control using your finger nail.
Use a Multimeter (set it to resistance meter) to locate which connection is broken.
(Follow the Multimeter link if you don't know what it is).
If you/your parents don't have a Multimeter, try using a small light bulb (1.5volt),an AA battery, a piece of PVC pipe (the length of the battery) & 2 pieces of cable (15 cm / 6 inches each would be enough).
Try to build a flashlight with that,but use the other cable as a tester by connecting it to only 1 side of the battery.
If the broken part is/are the earpiece part,then you are lucky
It's easier to fix & there is someone already posting about it here.
Else...some soldering is needed.
You'll need 3.5mm TRRS Jack (not the ordinary TRS jack)
Cut the Jack part & peel the cable.
You'll find 6 wires after peeling the cable.
Check it first (using a Multimeter) if the wires are not the broken part.
If the wire(s) is(are) the broken part,You'll need a cable with the same structure (6 wires/sub cables inside)
Fixing:
Jack Diagram:
1 2 3 4 ______
< = = =|______|-------> Cable
Tip --> Left Channel
First Ring --> Right Channel
Second Ring --> Ground
Sleeve --> Microphone
Wiring Diagram:
Green --> Left Channel (+)
Red --> Right Channel (+)
Blue --> Right Channel (-),
Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),
Copper --> Microphone (-)
White --> Microphone (+)
Solder the wire sequentially according to both diagrams.
It work very nice,even the remote control
I hope it helps
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.

khup said:
I'm confused with the Wiring diagram in [3] in my case is only the Blue color.So i have to skip this line Red-Blue(inside the shielded one) -->Left Channel(-),Is that so?? I have 4 wires viz. Green, Red,Blue and Copper. Please clarify me if i am wrong.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)

d4rkkn16ht said:
is yours an original HTC handsfree?
every channel should have a pair of (+) & (-) and the original HTC handsfree has 3 channel (left,right & mic/remote)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.

khup said:
I think it is the original one, it comes with the Box. Left=Green , Right=Red , Ground=Blue & Mic=Copper . Is this how i should connect?? I am still confused as there are only 4 wires.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.

yaro666 said:
what else would you like to solder if there are physically only 4 parts (4 circles on jack). there could be - (grounds)of speakers, which should be soldered with - (ground) of the jack.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ground=Blue.

All (-) = ground
You can combine all (-) & solder them together to the GROUND part of the jack

Hey there, looks like an amazing tuto but I'm having some problems with it, hope someone can give me a hand here.
I have this g-cube headphones with mic, and as you can see, they don't seem to have a "twisted" copper-white cable, or maybe I'm loosing something?
Pic attached shows just 4 cables with no way to un-twist any of them, Green, "Full-copper", Blue and Red.
I had to cut a bit more of this because on my first attempt, I tried to un-twist the copper one, it had some white fibers things, but no way to get two cables from it.

thanks alot

Sorry to bump this thread, but I want to check a few thing:
I want to wire this to a TRS plug (because I didn't buy a TRRS one, and, in the end, it doesn't matter, I only want to use the headphones, I don't even use microphone and remote).
Would this wiring work:
Red on right channel,
Green on left channel,
Blue and Red Blue on GND?
And I would leave other wires unwired / unconnected?
I don't want to mess something up, so I want to double check.
Thanks for the help in advance

^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .

Mister B said:
^ Sounds right to me, just make sure the spare wires are capped so don't short on anything/cause interference .
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
OK great, thanks a lot.

My phone is a Samsung Galaxy S3, the wiring colours code is a bit different.
Mine has Red, Green, Black, and the last one has no skin.
It is Ok to assume that Red and Green are left and right in all headsets?
Which ones are Mic and Ground? I'm tempted to try the black as Mic and the no skin one as Ground.
Update
Well, the wire I took for no skin was the copper one, and It seems it is Ground, or maybe not, but It is the ring near the sleeve, and the Black wire go in the sleeve.
In my first attempt I soldered the Black and Copper in the wrong order, nothing terrible happened, but the volume was very low and when I pressed the auricular button the volume went to full only to come back to very low when the button was released. This gave me the clue that those two wires were switched then I re-soldered them in the correct order. Everything is fine now.

Another Nexus 7 car install

Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!

Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow

im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)

Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.

Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.

Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.

Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.

can you please make a video.

How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.

I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html

Nexus 7 [2013] in my Mazda 6 [2009]

So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike

i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?

amazing. navigation works well ?

ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike

Fixing the crap microphone issue on a single Din unit

I've spent hours reading the various threads since getting my HU last Novemeber. Absolutely love it, especially with the Malaysk roms on, does everything I could want it to, except make a bloody phone call. If the other end can hear me it's very faint at best.
Mine was supplied by Pumpkin, they have tried to help with a microphone app and various settings, none made the slightest difference.
There were a few posts about adding an external mic by finding the BT card after dissasembly and wiring to the mic+ and Sgnd legs on the card. Last night I eventually bit the bullet and took mine completely to piecese. Unfortunately I couldn't find a BT card, maybe it's built in, or on chip or...... But I gave up looking for it. What I did find on the front panel was the original pathetic little mic, way back from the tiny hole. You can't drill it bigger as it knocks the mic out of place.
My fix, made simpler now I know what I'm doing (it took me a lot longer and many more steps.
Take off main case
Pull tape off DVD drive to extend ribbon cable
Flip up black tab at the back of the ribbon cable connection on the screen and slide out ribbon and put screen aside
Remove two small screws from the side of the faceplate and using a flat blade screwdriver release the faceplate
Flip up tabs on both ribbon connectors and remove ribbons, I found it easier doing the short one first
unscrew all circuit boards screws in the faceplate circuit (7) and remove faceplate
Drill a hole in the rear of the unit above the ISO connector to feed a cable through
Carefully desolder the horrible little mic from the right hand side of the circuit (labelled mic1) and clean the holes
Take a mini jack extension lead and cut off the male end - either a mono one or if stereo you want the wires for the top part and the middle part of the connector stripped and feed through the hole, I also put a very small tie wrap inside with the tag outside so I could hold the wire tight and not strain the solder - tightened after assembly
The positive (top part) goes on the inside connection. I soldered this to the top of the board
The ground goes to the other terminal - these are so close together that I soldered this on the underside to ensure no contact
Reassemble in reverse of above (making sure all faceplate buttons are in place (yes I forgot the eject and screen buttons)
Then connect any unpowered condenser Mic and all of a sudden fantastic vocie clarity, quite a phenomenal difference.
I used this mic from Amazon, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F84YMZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Happy for this to get merged into another thread, but I couldn't find one specifically about the mic problem with the single din unit.

Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?

ACSlater said:
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no external mic connection on the single din units. Confirmed by Pumpkin. Bit of a silly oversight