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Well the bundled stock headphones include a right angle connector.
But I want to use my iPhone headphones (aftermarket, not the bundled ones)
There's plenty of right angle connectors that are 3 conductor/2 band but you lose the mic/play button with that.
Has anyone found a right angle adaptor with 4 condutor/3 bands?
Without a right angle adapter I fear too much movement will damage the port or the connector on the headphones (and it doesnt really feel right in the pocket)
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
I also found some that include are TRRS at the phone (male) end, TRS at the female end and include a mic like this one. With this adapter you can use any headphones and still make calls.
The first like seems to be what I need, it's a bit pricier then what I wanted but it's the right description of what I want. If there was one for approx $10 inc shipping it'd be perfect.
My headphones are the apple in ear headphones so they already include a mic (and more importantly a button to control audio)
marvin02 said:
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's perfect, but the pricing is loonacy !
It came to nearly $20 after (even the cheapest) shipping. As the headphone jack was the last piece from keeping me from completely retiring my old iphone (i only used it for music) I figured it while it was expensive it was redicilously expensive.
Once it arrives i'll do a mini review of it, should be here by the middle of the week.
You could probably get the right angle plug and make one, but then you have to actually take the time to make the darn thing. you would also need the straight plug and wire and solder and the skill, Nah - I would probably order one just like you did.
Mini-review
So I recieved my connector today.
It doesnt match the picture exactly on the earlier link, but that's a good thing.
The headphone port body seems to be made of electrical shrinkwrap. This good as it means there's nothing on it that can possibly scratch your phone. The issue is that the overall look makes it look like someone hand assembeled it and is not factory made.
It does exactly what it's supposed to do, passes all signals without any perceptable loss in quality.
Pros:
TRRS on both ends (passes all 4 wires)
No metal on body so cant scratch anything
No perceptable change in audio quality
Cons:
Electrical shrinkwrap doesnt scream quality
Price, very expensive for what it is and the build quality
Other:
Doesnt match picture
Cable is 6 inches
Cable is very thick! compare the headphone cable and the extension's cable.
Final Thoughts:
If it were around $8-15 with shipping it'd be a pretty good buy even for it's quality. At $20 it's a bit much for something so small even if it had really good build quality/materials.
But as I mentioned earlier this is the last piece I needed to make my streak fully replace my old iphone. Being able to carry 1 less device makes the high cost not so high.
Issues left to tackle related to streak:
I'm currently using doubletwist to sync with my itunes library and as my music player, currently you can only do single press on the headphone button to play/stop music. It cant do double press to skip forward a track or triple press to go back a track.
Edit: It turns out doubletwist does support double press to skip a track, but not triple press to return to a track. It's a bit finicky though, as it seems to be a hack on detecting that you pressed play/stop quickly and not as a single smooth command.
Also unfortunately you cant use the vol up/vol down button on the headphones (but this isnt the fault of the streak, it's intentional vendor lock-in)
As I'm currently using the apple in-ear headphones I dont expect to change them any time soon, not that other non iphone headphones support volume buttons on the mic block anyway.
The volume buttons on the streak are small and with the right angle connector connected and the port so close to the vol buttons it might be a bit difficult to change the volume without removing it from your pocket. As I have no case for my streak but did for my iphone I dont have the case to guide me to the buttons as easily (You can feel the vol buttons even though the outside of jeans with a case) But I have to walk around a bit and try this part first. The vol buttons work fine for me, I have the phone upright in pocket with screen facing outwards. Finding the buttons isnt an issue at all.
The fact the streak has a metal body means I dont need a case to protect the back from scratches (the front is a different story).
Great review, thanks for taking the time to follow up.
Edited review, turns out using the vol buttons is fine even with the connector.
Doubletwist also includes double tap for skip track so it's pretty much everything I need
I have been working on using my Nook as an In-Car PC. The setup as taken some time to perfect, but I think I've finally got it. I am running CM7 nightly 117. Internet is being supplied to it by an AT&T Mifi and the audio is being streamed over bluetooth through a modded Plantronics Voyager 855 ( headset has A2DP). I modded the headset by removing the earpiece and replacing it with a 3.5mm headphone jack.
I found a tutorial on Lifehacker.com about modding the headset.
My mount in the car was created using a piece of 1" aluminum flatstock, some black self adhesive felt and some velcro. The dash kit in my car has a pocket under the stereo that was the perfect height for the bracket that supprt the nook. All I did was cut the flat stock to 2 8" pieces and bend the into hooks at the end. I covered the Hooked ends with felt to protect the Nook from getting scratched and then velcroed them to the top of the pocket. A piece of velcro on the back of the nook and on the dash above the stereo finished the install. I posted the video on youtube under the username jboyz1007 ( sorry haven't posted enough to be able to post a hyperlink.)
Here is a pic of the modded bluetooth
Nice attempt! Here's the embedded video for ya.
Thank you for posting the video. I appreciate it.
I would be interested in some pictures of the mounting you did. Vehicle make/model, etc.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
I am at work right now but when I get home for lunch I will post a pick of the mount. The car is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier 5 speed. The mount puts it at a great angle for viewing and I can reach it with my hand on the shifter.
Here's the pics that were requested.
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
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Click to collapse
Very nice man. Might have to check this out
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Tiezane said:
Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the compliments.
To answer your questions. The dash panel isn't custom molded. I just covered it in carbon fiber vinyl because I have a few too many holes in it and don't have the money for a new panel right now.
ADW EX is my default launcher. Carhome Ultra is an app, but in the settings of the app you can set it to respond to the home key as if it were a launcher.
Volume is controlled by an app called oddly enough "volume control" by Rubberbigpepper. It has a slider on the side of the screen. I put it to the right side on the center and set it to auto hide so all I do is touch that spot and slide my finger up and down.
As far as power, that is a funny one. My nook doesn't run on battery. A circuit fried inside and since then it won't run on battery power. It is way outside warranty and works fine when plugged in so this just seamed like a logical use for it. If I have to hard reboot it, which is rare, I simple pull the power. As far as sitting the screen down, for that I use Button Savior.
Hope this answers all you questions.
Latest tweak.
Didn't like the way carhome ultra was chopping off the words on the icons and the time. After reading in a couple of forums, I found out that it doesn't support non standard dpi like 160dpi. Which is the default of the nook color. I used the nook odds and ends app to change it from 160 to 180 and here is how it looks now.
As you can see it is much better and all my other apps still work. As a matter of fact pandora even looks better.
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Tiezane said:
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have access to the sd card, but if I do need to transfer files,I use Dropbox and file manager. As for your other question, yes I am still using the mifi.
Also the mifi has an sd slot, so if I need to access a big file like a movie, I can put it on there and then use a file manager app to transfer the file that way.
Was wanting to try something like this in a 2002 Honda civic, thanks for the tips!
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
kalel2000 said:
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
View attachment 1294656
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No problems with range?
No problems with range. The obd II device is only about a foot and a half away from the nook. The GPS receiver is about 2 feet away and it works fine too.
Thanks for your post, I wish I would have seen it earlier.
Just started a project like this myself recently using a Nook Color, but I'm wishing I would have spent the extra money and got a tablet that works a bit better. Seems too unstable, but it could be my dislike of CM7 and the need to use CM10.
Anyway, I use A2DP as well (which isn't working for me on the recent Beta 4 of CM10 all of the sudden) with a Blackberry Bluetooth Remote. I really hate Android's handling of Bluetooth, as I have to use AutomateIt to turn off Bluetooth when the power shuts off, and turn it back on in order to connect every time. The wireless part is nice though. I also use AutomateIt to keep the screen on when I turn on the car (usb power connected), open Poweramp when Bluetooth is connected, and turn the screen off when the car goes off.
Also use Poweramp as my music player, and was hoping to get music videos on there too, but it's another limitation of the old NC that it can't seem to play much. I don't have mine built in to my dash, but I did pick up an iKross car mount and I'm using it without the arms to hold my NC. Unfortunately, another problem I'm having, is the suction on the back of the tablet is causing ghost touches all over the screen instead of working properly like when I just hold it. I bought a cheap case thinking that would help, but it hasn't helped at all.
I like your setup though, and I'm glad someone is getting it right, I'm hoping I can get mine working in the next several weeks before I decide to just get rid of the NC and pick something up for Christmas that will work better for me.
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
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While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
Hi Guys,
Need your help re an idea I have for mounting an N7 in my Mitsubishi Lancer.
I intend to keep my stock Radio/CD player for well playing radio and CDs and use the AUX input for the N7 audio.
I was thinking of putting the tablet in a case and have it sit in the display cavity, with the case hinged to the top edge of the cavity. This would allow me to push the top of the tablet backwards which would elevate the bottom part of the tablet, thus revealing the display (for when I want to use the radio). Hopefully the schematic explains it.
Questions:
1- Do you think this mounting idea is a good idea or even feasible. Has anyone come across a small cylindrical hinge that could work in this case?
2- Can I use Tasker to lock / unlock screen based on the orientation angle of the N7 i.e. have Tasker lock screen when I’m in Stock position and unlock when I move it into N7 position
Bump.
Had a look at Tasker and it only allows defining orientation based tasks for specific positions (i.e. lying flat or on the side) but not to based on a user set angle. Can this be done?
bump
That's a nice idea. You'll need an OTG while charging rom. I forgot who made that long ago.
Edit: I realized you want to keep your stock radio. I'll leave my previous post below for reference. Apologies.
Edit: To add to your topic, I would think a mount based on pressure on the sides would be more feasible than a cylindrical hinge, as driving has its forces. Try cutting two pieces of insulation foam on the left and right for prototype purposes to test your placement first (plug in cables) and below that, see if the nexus dock fits or you may be able to find a pogo pin (it has audio out!) assembly to charge it. Tasker + rotation locker can do landscape at boot
- Buy a dash install double din kit with wire harness. usually $30-40, may require some diy work but will fit flush when done. (Pins on the harness usually have the standard 12v, + speaker / amp attachments)
- Charging uses a car adapter hidden and connected directly
- For otg use: auto droid, its relatively recent. Based on slimkat for battery savings (aosp+ lots of features).
It gives otg force charging, power management, otg host mode, etc and based on 4.4.4
- Next, buy a USB hub and connect webcams, and whatever usb peripherals (think of the possibilities), obd bluetooth adapter for car stats.
- USB DAC (sound card), connect this directly to our amp and usb hub
- Alternatively tap the 3.5 aux, but for lessor sound quality and only 2 channels with no bass
Total costs: 80~ bucks excluding DAC and amp. Not bad
See my photo for mount sample. Installed pic coming soon
-snip-
1xinfusion said:
Edit: I realized you want to keep your stock radio. I'll leave my previous post below for reference. Apologies.
Edit: To add to your topic, I would think a mount based on pressure on the sides would be more feasible than a cylindrical hinge, as driving has its forces. Try cutting two pieces of insulation foam on the left and right for prototype purposes to test your placement first (plug in cables) and below that, see if the nexus dock fits or you may be able to find a pogo pin (it has audio out!) assembly to charge it. Tasker + rotation locker can do landscape at boot
- Buy a dash install double din kit with wire harness. usually $30-40, may require some diy work but will fit flush when done. (Pins on the harness usually have the standard 12v, + speaker / amp attachments)
- Charging uses a car adapter hidden and connected directly
- For otg use: auto droid, its relatively recent. Based on slimkat for battery savings (aosp+ lots of features).
It gives otg force charging, power management, otg host mode, etc and based on 4.4.4
- Next, buy a USB hub and connect webcams, and whatever usb peripherals (think of the possibilities), obd bluetooth adapter for car stats.
- USB DAC (sound card), connect this directly to our amp and usb hub
- Alternatively tap the 3.5 aux, but for lessor sound quality and only 2 channels with no bass
Total costs: 80~ bucks excluding DAC and amp. Not bad
See my photo for mount sample. Installed pic coming soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you mentioned using a webcam - which webcam did you exactly use with autodroid or did you use a video grabber like the stk1160 in your install? I am currently having alot of trouble getting my camera to work
Hey all,
So I searched the forum and found quite a few headphone port issues discussed, but no mention of my exact problem. And yes, I looked inside my port and scraped around with a toothpick... there is nothing immediately obvious obstructing the port- hence the need for my post
My headphone port seems to be short on depth. I have a pair of headphones with an inline mic. There are perfectly fine for listening to music (they even snap into place as they should). But the mic doesn't work. I don't use that often so i forgot about it.
Well the other day I bought a selfie stick (I know... I know... don't kick me! My fiance and I travel a lot and sometimes it is impossible to find someone to take a photo for you in front of a landmark). I bought a wired one to avoid the battery drain of BT (which I don't use much except in the car). Well, the shutter button on the stick doesn't work with my N6. I have 5 camera apps installed and all have the volume buttons mapped to the shutter...I tried it with my fiance's LG G4 and my old GS2, it works on both of them.
So while trying to trouble shoot this issue, I plugged my headphones into her phone and made a call... low and held, the mic worked. Next I searched the forums and Google and found the issues of clogged ports. Mine isn't. And I used a bright halogen light to peer inside. Nothing but port. So I measured it.
Here is the interesting part, my first measurements just involved watching how far the jack entered the port. I tried my phone, my S2 and the LGG4... the S2 and the G4 both ingested the entire jack. My N6, about 1mm was left out. So I measured by inserting a tooth pick and measuring how far it went in, sure enough, my N6 is about 1mm shallower then the others.
I did find one post here on XDA where people suggested that you had to press very hard to fully insert a jack. I tried, I nearly broke the headphones in the attempt... and no change.
Has anyone else had this exact issue? Were you able to solve it?
Has anyone attempted to replace the port?
Just a bump...
Anyone? TIA
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
seahorsepip said:
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, the photo would be great.
The headphones I have work on two other Android devices, as well as the selfie stick. So it doesn't appear to be a comparability issue with Android.
Thanks!
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Note10.1Dude said:
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Note Dude.
Thanks for responding. It's an interesting theory, but I have an inline volume control on this headset that does indeed adjust the volume. So, it's really just the mic.
Thanks, though!