Well the bundled stock headphones include a right angle connector.
But I want to use my iPhone headphones (aftermarket, not the bundled ones)
There's plenty of right angle connectors that are 3 conductor/2 band but you lose the mic/play button with that.
Has anyone found a right angle adaptor with 4 condutor/3 bands?
Without a right angle adapter I fear too much movement will damage the port or the connector on the headphones (and it doesnt really feel right in the pocket)
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
I also found some that include are TRRS at the phone (male) end, TRS at the female end and include a mic like this one. With this adapter you can use any headphones and still make calls.
The first like seems to be what I need, it's a bit pricier then what I wanted but it's the right description of what I want. If there was one for approx $10 inc shipping it'd be perfect.
My headphones are the apple in ear headphones so they already include a mic (and more importantly a button to control audio)
marvin02 said:
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's perfect, but the pricing is loonacy !
It came to nearly $20 after (even the cheapest) shipping. As the headphone jack was the last piece from keeping me from completely retiring my old iphone (i only used it for music) I figured it while it was expensive it was redicilously expensive.
Once it arrives i'll do a mini review of it, should be here by the middle of the week.
You could probably get the right angle plug and make one, but then you have to actually take the time to make the darn thing. you would also need the straight plug and wire and solder and the skill, Nah - I would probably order one just like you did.
Mini-review
So I recieved my connector today.
It doesnt match the picture exactly on the earlier link, but that's a good thing.
The headphone port body seems to be made of electrical shrinkwrap. This good as it means there's nothing on it that can possibly scratch your phone. The issue is that the overall look makes it look like someone hand assembeled it and is not factory made.
It does exactly what it's supposed to do, passes all signals without any perceptable loss in quality.
Pros:
TRRS on both ends (passes all 4 wires)
No metal on body so cant scratch anything
No perceptable change in audio quality
Cons:
Electrical shrinkwrap doesnt scream quality
Price, very expensive for what it is and the build quality
Other:
Doesnt match picture
Cable is 6 inches
Cable is very thick! compare the headphone cable and the extension's cable.
Final Thoughts:
If it were around $8-15 with shipping it'd be a pretty good buy even for it's quality. At $20 it's a bit much for something so small even if it had really good build quality/materials.
But as I mentioned earlier this is the last piece I needed to make my streak fully replace my old iphone. Being able to carry 1 less device makes the high cost not so high.
Issues left to tackle related to streak:
I'm currently using doubletwist to sync with my itunes library and as my music player, currently you can only do single press on the headphone button to play/stop music. It cant do double press to skip forward a track or triple press to go back a track.
Edit: It turns out doubletwist does support double press to skip a track, but not triple press to return to a track. It's a bit finicky though, as it seems to be a hack on detecting that you pressed play/stop quickly and not as a single smooth command.
Also unfortunately you cant use the vol up/vol down button on the headphones (but this isnt the fault of the streak, it's intentional vendor lock-in)
As I'm currently using the apple in-ear headphones I dont expect to change them any time soon, not that other non iphone headphones support volume buttons on the mic block anyway.
The volume buttons on the streak are small and with the right angle connector connected and the port so close to the vol buttons it might be a bit difficult to change the volume without removing it from your pocket. As I have no case for my streak but did for my iphone I dont have the case to guide me to the buttons as easily (You can feel the vol buttons even though the outside of jeans with a case) But I have to walk around a bit and try this part first. The vol buttons work fine for me, I have the phone upright in pocket with screen facing outwards. Finding the buttons isnt an issue at all.
The fact the streak has a metal body means I dont need a case to protect the back from scratches (the front is a different story).
Great review, thanks for taking the time to follow up.
Edited review, turns out using the vol buttons is fine even with the connector.
Doubletwist also includes double tap for skip track so it's pretty much everything I need
Related
Today my phone slipped out of my pocket. It slid out while I was attempting to change songs. I didn’t even look down. Just waited to hear the sound of it hitting the ground. Thankfully I never heard that sound. I looked down and the phone was dangling inches from the cement; saved by my headphone wire.
Question 1) Is this by design? The female/male connection of the 3.5mm jack seems unusually snug*. The USB by comparison sometimes falls out.
Question 2) Are there any apps that utilize the volume rocker to change the songs on the music player?
*that's what she said
I think you just got lucky *
I order to give good audio quality, the jacks need to be snug, better connection. I've seen many instances where I'd need to replace headphone jacks in computers because they wouldn't snap in firmly and not make good connections. If you held it at the right angle, music would play, but not without crackling and popping occasionally.
I have no clue if there are any apps. I imagine that would be more a limitation on the plug portion than the programs. The Aria did it, but I know there are particular types of headphones that have them built in that speicifically will/will not work with the phone. Just have to try.
*that's what I said. Just now. See, I said it. Earlier in the post. First line. See?
I recently destroyed my OM headphones that came with the phone and had the arduous task of finding a compatible headset that offered quality and functionality.
I found out that these do not work
iBeats Dr Dre edition- mic does not work and volume buttons do not work (100)
Skull Candy- Mic does not work but the play and pause buttons do(60)
and finally the one that did work
V-moda vibe duo- full functionality but only comes with an answer button which does play an pause. (100)
feel free to add your experience with purchased headsets
Sound quality was the best on V-moda, then iBeats, then skull candy
Skull candy is a company and not a specific headphones... they have many models. As for the skull candy full metal jackets, the mic does work. I cannot compare them to the others mentioned, but the sound is very good.
My Marshall Minors work on the focus. Not the cheapest but they are pretty cool looking and sound great.
this might be a little late but I need some new headphones for use at work and do not want to spend a lot. I searched "ehs60annbe" on amazon and found plenty of merchants selling what appear to be the exact headphones that come with the phone.
These ones are $6.83 +free shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EHS60...EEZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299825988&sr=8-1
I lost my pair that came with the phone, so I was excited to see these.
I ordered a pair and they should arrive tomorrow.
If they are indeed the same as those that came with the phone, I might order me a couple more - I really liked them, and they worked perfectly with the phone (control wise).
Thanks for the post.
hapa papa said:
this might be a little late but I need some new headphones for use at work and do not want to spend a lot. I searched "ehs60annbe" on amazon and found plenty of merchants selling what appear to be the exact headphones that come with the phone.
These ones are $6.83 +free shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EHS60...EEZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1299825988&sr=8-1
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Unfortunately I'm having problems with these headphones - for some reason, the controls will only increase the volume - you can't decrease the volume.
Perhaps I received a "bad" pair? Anyone else tried these?
The Focus has a VERY clean audio output. I've fed it into my home stereo and was impressed with the detail and clairity. I listened with Etymotic 6i headphones and was blown away. After that, the included headset sounds muddy with a artificial bass boost.
For those who can afford to splurge on a headset, consider the Etymotic mc3
Any recommendations for matching the original pair that came with the Focus?
My priorities:
-Must be able to trigger voice control
-Must have working microphone
-Must be able to answer/hangup calls
-Must have volume up and down
-Must not be expensive
-Should be gel like for in-ear
I've tried iPhone ones, they don't do volume/up down.
I've tried tried the common silver Samsung one with one button - the button doesn't pick up or hangup calls.
Help!
This ones looks identical to the oem ones and they are pretty cheap!:
http://cgi.ebay.com/In-Ear-Headset-...090511?pt=PDA_Accessories&hash=item20b64777cf
http://www.wpcentral.com/klipsch-working-wp7-compatible-headphones
Headphones that WILL be fully compatible with wp7, and sound pretty decent as well.
Though it will probably be a few more months until they are released.
Anyone had any luck finding headphones with working volume and answer call buttons? Preferably ones with a more sturdy cover over the connector since my cable broke because of too much twisting and bending.
jkimrey said:
Unfortunately I'm having problems with these headphones - for some reason, the controls will only increase the volume - you can't decrease the volume.
Perhaps I received a "bad" pair? Anyone else tried these?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
jkimrey, Did you find a solution? I have the same problem. I read somewhere that it's because Samsung is using a newer standard that allows for TV Out or something. But this is really annoying.
same here i cant find any that the buttons fully work on, that i'm willing to buy. I got some on amazon that only volume up works. my wifes blackberry ones that came with her torch work but i cant find them anywhere. The cat ate my original ones
jkimrey said:
I lost my pair that came with the phone, so I was excited to see these.
I ordered a pair and they should arrive tomorrow.
If they are indeed the same as those that came with the phone, I might order me a couple more - I really liked them, and they worked perfectly with the phone (control wise).
Thanks for the post.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I can say that these are the ones i got from amazon same thing with the button... It doesnt even look the same as the OEM ones.
Has anyone tried the Zagg Smartbuds? they appear to have all the controls that one could want [play/pause, skip FW/BK, Volume, answer/hangup(I assume would work with voice activation as well)] but they are a bit pricey.
Am I the only one who would like a non-in ear headphone that works with the Focus?
At this point, I just want something that's compatible! I have had zero luck so far in getting earphones compatible with my Focus. I too found the common Samsung ones. Thankfully, I got two pairs for less than $10. Guess what they work perfectly with? My effing iPod touch. GAH.
I honestly have no idea why this is so hard...
V-Moda =
I have to second the V-Moda headphones. I'm currently using them in conjunction with Monster replacement foam tips (medium) and the sound is amazing (albeit the highs are a little muffled but the bass is punchy and responsive). It is a one button setup which bothered me at first, but with a dedicated volume rocker on the device it's really not so much of an issue that I thought it would be. If the Focus only had an equalizer of some sort to bring out the highs, these headphone would be perfect. The mic quality in the headset is beautiful and these 'phones are as durable as all heck (they've been: stuck in a car door for 50 miles, went through the wash, stepped on, trampled, chewed on by a dog, caught on bushes etc.) and have never even began to show signs of wear. If you can live with pocket adjusting the volume, I would recommend getting these.
I should probably mention that I DO NOT work for V-Moda despite how it sounds... I just happen to be a sort of audiophile and while the Focus itself doesn't have the BEST sound quality (I'm coming from a Cowon S9 lol) these heaphones help to bring out its above average playback capability. Another side note is that in response to the OP, the Modas don't only pause/play/answer call/hang up. While listening to music playback you can double tap the button to skip to the next song or triple tap it to skip back.
Entegy said:
At this point, I just want something that's compatible! I have had zero luck so far in getting earphones compatible with my Focus. I too found the common Samsung ones. Thankfully, I got two pairs for less than $10. Guess what they work perfectly with? My effing iPod touch. GAH.
I honestly have no idea why this is so hard...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The iPhone headphones work decently. They don't fully work (microphone / volume up and down), but pause / play / next song/ previous song does work. Before the mango update, I was only able to get the play to work. It seems Microsoft is slowly making the iPhone headphones compatible with the Focus.
Diablosblizz said:
The iPhone headphones work decently. They don't fully work (microphone / volume up and down), but pause / play / next song/ previous song does work. Before the mango update, I was only able to get the play to work. It seems Microsoft is slowly making the iPhone headphones compatible with the Focus.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Does anybody have a link to a hardware specification for what these in-line buttons actually do for the WP7 phones?
Pretty much all the headphones with in-line controls and a microphone have 4 conductors which are:
- left-audio
- right-audio
- common/ground
- signalling/mic
Here is the spec for IPod Shuffle remote headsets:
pinouts.ru/PortableDevices/iphone_headphone_pinout.shtml
david.carne.ca/shuffle_hax/shuffle_remote.html
So the three buttons operate as follows:
Button 1 - short to ground through 10K resistor (up)
Button 2 - short to ground (answer/hangup/play/pause)
Button 3 - short to ground through 4.7K resistor (down)
But the ipod remote (no mic) has an onboard microcontroller that receives DC power on the mic line as well and is used as a sort of authentication device allowing the Ipod Shuffle to uniquely identify the remote through a challegage response tone scheme. I'm not sure if this is included in the iphone remote cause the circuitry would probably interfere with the mic signal.
Headphones with only one button always short mic/4th conductor to ground so that will always work, but I bet WP7 and Iphone/ipad specs for the resistors for the up/down buttons are different.
I hope WP7 remotes don't have the microcontroller.
I may disassemble my OEM Samsung headphones and try to figure this out. It would be nice to get some Shure or Sennhesier hi-end headphones and plug them into a little adapter that provided to correct buttons. All the hi-end earbuds are iphone/ipad-only.
Presumably I could just cut off the ear-buds on the samsung headphones and solder some of the Shure connectors on there - then just plug in the Shure ear-buds. (all high-end Shure earbuds have replaceable cords
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
amazing. navigation works well ?
ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike
Hey all,
So I searched the forum and found quite a few headphone port issues discussed, but no mention of my exact problem. And yes, I looked inside my port and scraped around with a toothpick... there is nothing immediately obvious obstructing the port- hence the need for my post
My headphone port seems to be short on depth. I have a pair of headphones with an inline mic. There are perfectly fine for listening to music (they even snap into place as they should). But the mic doesn't work. I don't use that often so i forgot about it.
Well the other day I bought a selfie stick (I know... I know... don't kick me! My fiance and I travel a lot and sometimes it is impossible to find someone to take a photo for you in front of a landmark). I bought a wired one to avoid the battery drain of BT (which I don't use much except in the car). Well, the shutter button on the stick doesn't work with my N6. I have 5 camera apps installed and all have the volume buttons mapped to the shutter...I tried it with my fiance's LG G4 and my old GS2, it works on both of them.
So while trying to trouble shoot this issue, I plugged my headphones into her phone and made a call... low and held, the mic worked. Next I searched the forums and Google and found the issues of clogged ports. Mine isn't. And I used a bright halogen light to peer inside. Nothing but port. So I measured it.
Here is the interesting part, my first measurements just involved watching how far the jack entered the port. I tried my phone, my S2 and the LGG4... the S2 and the G4 both ingested the entire jack. My N6, about 1mm was left out. So I measured by inserting a tooth pick and measuring how far it went in, sure enough, my N6 is about 1mm shallower then the others.
I did find one post here on XDA where people suggested that you had to press very hard to fully insert a jack. I tried, I nearly broke the headphones in the attempt... and no change.
Has anyone else had this exact issue? Were you able to solve it?
Has anyone attempted to replace the port?
Just a bump...
Anyone? TIA
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
seahorsepip said:
Those mics don't tend to work in most cases if they work on an iphone vice versa, there are converters on dx.com as example. Sony headphones are known to work fine on android phones, I got a sony mdr-1 with an inline mic and controls that works fine on my n6.
If you want I can send pictures of the headphone jack connector when the back panel is removed, my back panel is currently loose after replacing the battery and I'm still waiting for the replacement ^^
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sure, the photo would be great.
The headphones I have work on two other Android devices, as well as the selfie stick. So it doesn't appear to be a comparability issue with Android.
Thanks!
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Note10.1Dude said:
So,
When I had a Moto X (V2) I asked moto about the volume controls and was told that they did not implement them, as it was not an Android standard feature. My guess it that it is the same with the Nexus 6 (I now use bt headphones, so haven't tried). My guess is that the microphone doesn't work on your headphones (try another set) and that the volume control over the headphone jack is not implemented.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hey Note Dude.
Thanks for responding. It's an interesting theory, but I have an inline volume control on this headset that does indeed adjust the volume. So, it's really just the mic.
Thanks, though!