Database Develop

[Q] Right angle connector for headphones?

Well the bundled stock headphones include a right angle connector.
But I want to use my iPhone headphones (aftermarket, not the bundled ones)
There's plenty of right angle connectors that are 3 conductor/2 band but you lose the mic/play button with that.
Has anyone found a right angle adaptor with 4 condutor/3 bands?
Without a right angle adapter I fear too much movement will damage the port or the connector on the headphones (and it doesnt really feel right in the pocket)

Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
I also found some that include are TRRS at the phone (male) end, TRS at the female end and include a mic like this one. With this adapter you can use any headphones and still make calls.

The first like seems to be what I need, it's a bit pricier then what I wanted but it's the right description of what I want. If there was one for approx $10 inc shipping it'd be perfect.
My headphones are the apple in ear headphones so they already include a mic (and more importantly a button to control audio)

marvin02 said:
Found this one, It may be cheaper to build your own.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That's perfect, but the pricing is loonacy !

It came to nearly $20 after (even the cheapest) shipping. As the headphone jack was the last piece from keeping me from completely retiring my old iphone (i only used it for music) I figured it while it was expensive it was redicilously expensive.
Once it arrives i'll do a mini review of it, should be here by the middle of the week.

You could probably get the right angle plug and make one, but then you have to actually take the time to make the darn thing. you would also need the straight plug and wire and solder and the skill, Nah - I would probably order one just like you did.

Mini-review
So I recieved my connector today.
It doesnt match the picture exactly on the earlier link, but that's a good thing.
The headphone port body seems to be made of electrical shrinkwrap. This good as it means there's nothing on it that can possibly scratch your phone. The issue is that the overall look makes it look like someone hand assembeled it and is not factory made.
It does exactly what it's supposed to do, passes all signals without any perceptable loss in quality.
Pros:
TRRS on both ends (passes all 4 wires)
No metal on body so cant scratch anything
No perceptable change in audio quality
Cons:
Electrical shrinkwrap doesnt scream quality
Price, very expensive for what it is and the build quality
Other:
Doesnt match picture
Cable is 6 inches
Cable is very thick! compare the headphone cable and the extension's cable.
Final Thoughts:
If it were around $8-15 with shipping it'd be a pretty good buy even for it's quality. At $20 it's a bit much for something so small even if it had really good build quality/materials.
But as I mentioned earlier this is the last piece I needed to make my streak fully replace my old iphone. Being able to carry 1 less device makes the high cost not so high.
Issues left to tackle related to streak:
I'm currently using doubletwist to sync with my itunes library and as my music player, currently you can only do single press on the headphone button to play/stop music. It cant do double press to skip forward a track or triple press to go back a track.
Edit: It turns out doubletwist does support double press to skip a track, but not triple press to return to a track. It's a bit finicky though, as it seems to be a hack on detecting that you pressed play/stop quickly and not as a single smooth command.
Also unfortunately you cant use the vol up/vol down button on the headphones (but this isnt the fault of the streak, it's intentional vendor lock-in)
As I'm currently using the apple in-ear headphones I dont expect to change them any time soon, not that other non iphone headphones support volume buttons on the mic block anyway.
The volume buttons on the streak are small and with the right angle connector connected and the port so close to the vol buttons it might be a bit difficult to change the volume without removing it from your pocket. As I have no case for my streak but did for my iphone I dont have the case to guide me to the buttons as easily (You can feel the vol buttons even though the outside of jeans with a case) But I have to walk around a bit and try this part first. The vol buttons work fine for me, I have the phone upright in pocket with screen facing outwards. Finding the buttons isnt an issue at all.
The fact the streak has a metal body means I dont need a case to protect the back from scratches (the front is a different story).

Great review, thanks for taking the time to follow up.

Edited review, turns out using the vol buttons is fine even with the connector.
Doubletwist also includes double tap for skip track so it's pretty much everything I need

Mounting N7 in Lancer

Hi Guys,
Need your help re an idea I have for mounting an N7 in my Mitsubishi Lancer.
I intend to keep my stock Radio/CD player for well playing radio and CDs and use the AUX input for the N7 audio.
I was thinking of putting the tablet in a case and have it sit in the display cavity, with the case hinged to the top edge of the cavity. This would allow me to push the top of the tablet backwards which would elevate the bottom part of the tablet, thus revealing the display (for when I want to use the radio). Hopefully the schematic explains it.
Questions:
1- Do you think this mounting idea is a good idea or even feasible. Has anyone come across a small cylindrical hinge that could work in this case?
2- Can I use Tasker to lock / unlock screen based on the orientation angle of the N7 i.e. have Tasker lock screen when I’m in Stock position and unlock when I move it into N7 position

Bump.
Had a look at Tasker and it only allows defining orientation based tasks for specific positions (i.e. lying flat or on the side) but not to based on a user set angle. Can this be done?

bump

That's a nice idea. You'll need an OTG while charging rom. I forgot who made that long ago.

Edit: I realized you want to keep your stock radio. I'll leave my previous post below for reference. Apologies.
Edit: To add to your topic, I would think a mount based on pressure on the sides would be more feasible than a cylindrical hinge, as driving has its forces. Try cutting two pieces of insulation foam on the left and right for prototype purposes to test your placement first (plug in cables) and below that, see if the nexus dock fits or you may be able to find a pogo pin (it has audio out!) assembly to charge it. Tasker + rotation locker can do landscape at boot
- Buy a dash install double din kit with wire harness. usually $30-40, may require some diy work but will fit flush when done. (Pins on the harness usually have the standard 12v, + speaker / amp attachments)
- Charging uses a car adapter hidden and connected directly
- For otg use: auto droid, its relatively recent. Based on slimkat for battery savings (aosp+ lots of features).
It gives otg force charging, power management, otg host mode, etc and based on 4.4.4
- Next, buy a USB hub and connect webcams, and whatever usb peripherals (think of the possibilities), obd bluetooth adapter for car stats.
- USB DAC (sound card), connect this directly to our amp and usb hub
- Alternatively tap the 3.5 aux, but for lessor sound quality and only 2 channels with no bass
Total costs: 80~ bucks excluding DAC and amp. Not bad
See my photo for mount sample. Installed pic coming soon

-snip-

1xinfusion said:
Edit: I realized you want to keep your stock radio. I'll leave my previous post below for reference. Apologies.
Edit: To add to your topic, I would think a mount based on pressure on the sides would be more feasible than a cylindrical hinge, as driving has its forces. Try cutting two pieces of insulation foam on the left and right for prototype purposes to test your placement first (plug in cables) and below that, see if the nexus dock fits or you may be able to find a pogo pin (it has audio out!) assembly to charge it. Tasker + rotation locker can do landscape at boot
- Buy a dash install double din kit with wire harness. usually $30-40, may require some diy work but will fit flush when done. (Pins on the harness usually have the standard 12v, + speaker / amp attachments)
- Charging uses a car adapter hidden and connected directly
- For otg use: auto droid, its relatively recent. Based on slimkat for battery savings (aosp+ lots of features).
It gives otg force charging, power management, otg host mode, etc and based on 4.4.4
- Next, buy a USB hub and connect webcams, and whatever usb peripherals (think of the possibilities), obd bluetooth adapter for car stats.
- USB DAC (sound card), connect this directly to our amp and usb hub
- Alternatively tap the 3.5 aux, but for lessor sound quality and only 2 channels with no bass
Total costs: 80~ bucks excluding DAC and amp. Not bad
See my photo for mount sample. Installed pic coming soon
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
you mentioned using a webcam - which webcam did you exactly use with autodroid or did you use a video grabber like the stk1160 in your install? I am currently having alot of trouble getting my camera to work

Nexus 7 [2013] in my Mazda 6 [2009]

So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike

i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?

amazing. navigation works well ?

ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike

Fixing the crap microphone issue on a single Din unit

I've spent hours reading the various threads since getting my HU last Novemeber. Absolutely love it, especially with the Malaysk roms on, does everything I could want it to, except make a bloody phone call. If the other end can hear me it's very faint at best.
Mine was supplied by Pumpkin, they have tried to help with a microphone app and various settings, none made the slightest difference.
There were a few posts about adding an external mic by finding the BT card after dissasembly and wiring to the mic+ and Sgnd legs on the card. Last night I eventually bit the bullet and took mine completely to piecese. Unfortunately I couldn't find a BT card, maybe it's built in, or on chip or...... But I gave up looking for it. What I did find on the front panel was the original pathetic little mic, way back from the tiny hole. You can't drill it bigger as it knocks the mic out of place.
My fix, made simpler now I know what I'm doing (it took me a lot longer and many more steps.
Take off main case
Pull tape off DVD drive to extend ribbon cable
Flip up black tab at the back of the ribbon cable connection on the screen and slide out ribbon and put screen aside
Remove two small screws from the side of the faceplate and using a flat blade screwdriver release the faceplate
Flip up tabs on both ribbon connectors and remove ribbons, I found it easier doing the short one first
unscrew all circuit boards screws in the faceplate circuit (7) and remove faceplate
Drill a hole in the rear of the unit above the ISO connector to feed a cable through
Carefully desolder the horrible little mic from the right hand side of the circuit (labelled mic1) and clean the holes
Take a mini jack extension lead and cut off the male end - either a mono one or if stereo you want the wires for the top part and the middle part of the connector stripped and feed through the hole, I also put a very small tie wrap inside with the tag outside so I could hold the wire tight and not strain the solder - tightened after assembly
The positive (top part) goes on the inside connection. I soldered this to the top of the board
The ground goes to the other terminal - these are so close together that I soldered this on the underside to ensure no contact
Reassemble in reverse of above (making sure all faceplate buttons are in place (yes I forgot the eject and screen buttons)
Then connect any unpowered condenser Mic and all of a sudden fantastic vocie clarity, quite a phenomenal difference.
I used this mic from Amazon, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F84YMZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Happy for this to get merged into another thread, but I couldn't find one specifically about the mic problem with the single din unit.

Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?

ACSlater said:
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no external mic connection on the single din units. Confirmed by Pumpkin. Bit of a silly oversight

[HOWTO] [REPAIR] Spotty Headphone Jack or Random Google Assistant Activation Fix

If you've owned your Nexus for a while, you'll start to notice that your headphone jack may become spotty, finicky, or no longer work. This is caused by the lack of a proper connector on the motherboard for the headphone jack module. The pins of the headphone jack end up rubbing up against the PCB pads and wearing it away, resulting in a faulty connection. (See attachments for reference).
Symptoms of a worn connection:
- No sound through headphones
- Wiggling the headphone connector causes something to happen
- Google assistant or search activating randomly
- Songs randomly skipping or stopping when using aux or headphones
You can make a semi-permanent repair by tinning the connection pads with solder, which both improves the connection and repairs any wear. This may need to be repeated in the future as solder is a soft material. (not any time soon though, maybe a few months).
Tools:
- Soldering Iron
- Solder with rosin core (or solder + flux)
- About an hour
Step 1 - Follow any tear down guide to remove the main motherboard from the phone.
I prefer the iFixit guide which can be found here:
https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Nexus+5+Teardown/19016
You don't need to remove the battery, just the back cover, the protective shield, and unplug a few connectors.
Step 2 - Tin the connectors.
See attachments for the headphone connector, and reference images. (The images are taken with the motherboard flipped over)
If you've never touched a soldering iron before, make sure it's hot, and make sure to add a little flux to your target area. Flux removes oxidation, and makes the solder flow much much easier than without. Avoid hitting anything other than the soldering pads.
You don't need a lot, in fact, if you add too much, try to use the soldering iron tip to pull away the extra solder from the pads. I've attached a photo of a finished repair.
Step 3 - Reassembly.
Just put it back together the way you took it apart.