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I have been working on using my Nook as an In-Car PC. The setup as taken some time to perfect, but I think I've finally got it. I am running CM7 nightly 117. Internet is being supplied to it by an AT&T Mifi and the audio is being streamed over bluetooth through a modded Plantronics Voyager 855 ( headset has A2DP). I modded the headset by removing the earpiece and replacing it with a 3.5mm headphone jack.
I found a tutorial on Lifehacker.com about modding the headset.
My mount in the car was created using a piece of 1" aluminum flatstock, some black self adhesive felt and some velcro. The dash kit in my car has a pocket under the stereo that was the perfect height for the bracket that supprt the nook. All I did was cut the flat stock to 2 8" pieces and bend the into hooks at the end. I covered the Hooked ends with felt to protect the Nook from getting scratched and then velcroed them to the top of the pocket. A piece of velcro on the back of the nook and on the dash above the stereo finished the install. I posted the video on youtube under the username jboyz1007 ( sorry haven't posted enough to be able to post a hyperlink.)
Here is a pic of the modded bluetooth
Nice attempt! Here's the embedded video for ya.
Thank you for posting the video. I appreciate it.
I would be interested in some pictures of the mounting you did. Vehicle make/model, etc.
Sent from my HTC Vision using XDA App
I am at work right now but when I get home for lunch I will post a pick of the mount. The car is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier 5 speed. The mount puts it at a great angle for viewing and I can reach it with my hand on the shifter.
Here's the pics that were requested.
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
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Click to collapse
Very nice man. Might have to check this out
Sent from my SPH-D710 using xda app-developers app
kalel2000 said:
A little update. (actually big update.). I totally redid everything. My stereo is now in the glove compartment and the nook is now flush mounted in the dash. I ditched the Bluetooth for a audio cable direct to the stereo because audio quality was much better. I now have gps supplied by a TomTom MKii Bluetooth gps receiver I picked up on eBay for $12. I am using Carhome Ultra as the launcher and power is supplied to the nook through the USB cable run through the dash to a USB charging adapter in the aux power port. Here's a pic. Enjoy
View attachment 1265233
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Tiezane said:
Nice, I like the custom molded dash panel, too.
Is CarHome Ultra your default launcher? How do you handle volume control? Power control for the Nook (in the event of a hang, for example)?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Thanks for the compliments.
To answer your questions. The dash panel isn't custom molded. I just covered it in carbon fiber vinyl because I have a few too many holes in it and don't have the money for a new panel right now.
ADW EX is my default launcher. Carhome Ultra is an app, but in the settings of the app you can set it to respond to the home key as if it were a launcher.
Volume is controlled by an app called oddly enough "volume control" by Rubberbigpepper. It has a slider on the side of the screen. I put it to the right side on the center and set it to auto hide so all I do is touch that spot and slide my finger up and down.
As far as power, that is a funny one. My nook doesn't run on battery. A circuit fried inside and since then it won't run on battery power. It is way outside warranty and works fine when plugged in so this just seamed like a logical use for it. If I have to hard reboot it, which is rare, I simple pull the power. As far as sitting the screen down, for that I use Button Savior.
Hope this answers all you questions.
Latest tweak.
Didn't like the way carhome ultra was chopping off the words on the icons and the time. After reading in a couple of forums, I found out that it doesn't support non standard dpi like 160dpi. Which is the default of the nook color. I used the nook odds and ends app to change it from 160 to 180 and here is how it looks now.
As you can see it is much better and all my other apps still work. As a matter of fact pandora even looks better.
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Tiezane said:
What about access to the SD Card? Are you still data tethering through the Mifi?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I don't have access to the sd card, but if I do need to transfer files,I use Dropbox and file manager. As for your other question, yes I am still using the mifi.
Also the mifi has an sd slot, so if I need to access a big file like a movie, I can put it on there and then use a file manager app to transfer the file that way.
Was wanting to try something like this in a 2002 Honda civic, thanks for the tips!
Sent from my ADR6400L using xda app-developers app
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
kalel2000 said:
Last update.
Just got a OBDii Bluetooth reader off Amazon. Running Torque lite. Works great.
View attachment 1294656
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No problems with range?
No problems with range. The obd II device is only about a foot and a half away from the nook. The GPS receiver is about 2 feet away and it works fine too.
Thanks for your post, I wish I would have seen it earlier.
Just started a project like this myself recently using a Nook Color, but I'm wishing I would have spent the extra money and got a tablet that works a bit better. Seems too unstable, but it could be my dislike of CM7 and the need to use CM10.
Anyway, I use A2DP as well (which isn't working for me on the recent Beta 4 of CM10 all of the sudden) with a Blackberry Bluetooth Remote. I really hate Android's handling of Bluetooth, as I have to use AutomateIt to turn off Bluetooth when the power shuts off, and turn it back on in order to connect every time. The wireless part is nice though. I also use AutomateIt to keep the screen on when I turn on the car (usb power connected), open Poweramp when Bluetooth is connected, and turn the screen off when the car goes off.
Also use Poweramp as my music player, and was hoping to get music videos on there too, but it's another limitation of the old NC that it can't seem to play much. I don't have mine built in to my dash, but I did pick up an iKross car mount and I'm using it without the arms to hold my NC. Unfortunately, another problem I'm having, is the suction on the back of the tablet is causing ghost touches all over the screen instead of working properly like when I just hold it. I bought a cheap case thinking that would help, but it hasn't helped at all.
I like your setup though, and I'm glad someone is getting it right, I'm hoping I can get mine working in the next several weeks before I decide to just get rid of the NC and pick something up for Christmas that will work better for me.
Hey guy, im about to start my car audio install and i figured being such a avid android person haha i might as well use a nexus 7 as a headunit. I consider myself to be a bit of an audiophile when it comes to sound quality. Most people that go the nexus route just want it in there and aren't too concerned with sq it seems like. I'll be running a custom rom obviously, with a kernal for otg data and charging so i am able to charge the tablet and also have a flash drive plugged in to store various files.
My main questions are:
1. Whats my best option as far as wiring goes for SQ (thinking buetooth reciever in trunk that will have rca outs to an amp)
2. Kinda want to be able to take it out easily so best options or ideas for that
3. Is there a way to turn on the device without touching the power button? Not just wake it, actually boot the nexus
SQ doest NOT equal bluetooth a2dp to the trunk. Just wanted to mention that. Direct wire... or usb audio dac.
NFC tags would help, It wont boot the N7 up, but it will launch a media player and a change some settings at the same time.
1. Whats my best option as far as wiring goes for SQ (thinking buetooth reciever in trunk that will have rca outs to an amp)
Already posted, but bluetooth would be about as poor as you could go. I have my Nexus outputting to a Sabre USB-DAC, that feeds into a JBL MS8 and then onto the amplifiers.
2. Kinda want to be able to take it out easily so best options or ideas for that
This depends a lot on what car you are putting it in, and how much fabrication you want to do. I want to be able to take mine out easily, but am kind of lucky in that the dash panel I have it behind pulls out fairly easily allowing me to remove the Nexus.
3. Is there a way to turn on the device without touching the power button? Not just wake it, actually boot the nexus
I don't know that there is one, but to be honest I did not look into it that much. I use Tasker to put my Nexus to sleep, switch on Airplane mode etc. and to do the reverse whe it gets power.
For mine I am using Timur's ROM, it works really well for me, and I recommend you look into it.
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
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I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
So I've replaced my stock Navigation system in my '09 Mazda 6 with a 2nd gen Nexus 7.
I bought a used one off ebay because it didn't matter to me if the case/cover was banged up or not as I was planning on building it into the dash. The Nexus fits pretty well in the 2-din opening of the aftermarket panel I got [American International brand kit# MAZK860]. I used a Minisuit-X TPU case to help hold the tablet in place. The case creates a raised frame around the screen and makes it easier to locate the screen from the back of the 2-din panel. Notches needed to be cut in the sub-frame piece of the din kit for the USB connector and headphone jack, but other than that very little modifications were needed. I used a piece of PVC perforated sheet to hold the tablet into the din plate. The perforations in the sheet made it easy to cut out notches and holes with side cutters and achieve the shape I wanted without having to make a mess using a dremel.
For audio, I had purchased a Syba SD-CM-UAUD DAC but had trouble getting it to work right so I am now just using a 3.5mm 4-pin splitter to 3.5mm headphone/mic jacks. I have a JK MIC-J 044 lapel clip microphone stashed behind a small vent in the upper console panel and wired a headphone jack into the harness [Metra 70-7903]. I know some people think the DAC is far superior but I found the headphone jack audio output good enough for me and running it through the stock Bose amplifier in my car sounds excellent.
I'm also using a Joycon EXR to capture steering wheel controls and an EasyCap Dc60 to capture video from my KS1 dual channel dash camera. The camera is set to show the rear view for the video out so I can use it as a back-up camera on the tablet.
My first time installing the tablet worked ok. I had a few problems including the steering controls not working (except Volume down) and the battery wouldn't stay charged enough, forcing me to remove the tablet and charge it every other week. The Easycam also wouldn't work and flash drives wouldn't load right. The Joycon, Easycap, and flash drive issues were due to the $2 4-port hub I got free with something. I tried an Amazon Essentials hub too and it had an intermittent short. A 4-port Insignia hub from Bestbuy did the trick and everything is working now.
I did rebuild the harness last weekend because I wanted to get the Li-Ion battery out of the hot dash. Even though this setup was working ok, when it's 90-plug degrees outside, the tablet will shut itself off and boot-loop until it cools down. I decided to replace the battery with a 12V to 4.2V DC Step-Down regulator. I got an extra battery from ebay and remove the tiny controller board. I had read where other people just replaced the battery with a power supply and were getting odd messages from the tablet about how it was at 0 volts and wouldn't sleep or update properly. So, I used the battery control board and it reports the battery level to the tablet (usually around 90~95%).
The only issue I am having with the power is that when I start the engine, either the power is dropping too much or the car kills power to the radio harness and then I have to wait for the tablet to restart.
To fix this, I plan on using a capacitor to try and keep the tablet powered while the car is starting.
I do need some help. Though I have removed the Li-Ion battery, the overheated tablet will still shut down and boot-loop until it cools down. Is there a way to program it to ignore the temp. sensor? If not, does anyone know where this particular sensor is so I can replace it with a fixed resistor and make it think it's always room temp?
Questions, comments, and ideas welcome!
~Mike
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
amazing. navigation works well ?
ccb101 said:
i am sorry i cant be any help but what launcher and rom/ kernel do you use?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm using Timur's USB Rom for 4.4.4.
eldar4uk said:
amazing. navigation works well ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I haven't been on any trips yet, but I did test it on the ride home from work and it works well; picks up the GPS signal well. I just used Google Maps navigation for it and I input the directions using "OK Google".
~Mike
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
intruda119 said:
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
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See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
danielqinz said:
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
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I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
intruda119 said:
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Pictures of sinstall?
Trying to retain my oem backup camera but looks like I purchased the wrong harness. Made a mistake and purchased axxess harness. Will test.
danielqinz said:
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
intruda119 said:
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
Click to expand...
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Try --
If you find out 3 related wires of SWC, to figure out which 2 wires are the positive of steering wheel control (shorted for "swc"), you can use a multimeter (connect to these 2 wires) to test if the resistor values change when you press different swc buttons, if it does change, it means one of the 2 wires are swc ground, and the other is positive, if not, then go on checking if the resistor values change between the swc ground wire and the other swc wire you found from car harness connector.
If you find out 2 related wires of SWC, either both of them are positive wires or one of them is ground wires. For the positive wires, you can connect them to either “Key” or “Key+” wire of the radio. For ground wire, you should connect it to the thinner ground wire of the radio.
Then you need to program each keys by pressing “Settings ￫Default settings ￫Steering wheel program￫Reset”. Click one key value from ATOTO and it will flicker, when you press one of the keys on steering wheel, the flickering would stop and the status should change, then this key is successfully programmed. Press "Save" to save your setting.
It is important to tap Reset before program it
Also check to see if you get resistive value change to make sure you programmed your SWI module right
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
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Click to collapse
have you tried use a multi-meter and get resistive readings? if the module does not output resistive values when you press the buttons, or it produces the same value, it might be the module is bad
Can you please share the specific model of the items you used?
A6?????
for the Can bus what adapter model did you ue please?
Thank you,
danielqinz said:
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
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Click to collapse
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi !
I have the exact same problem. Did you find a fix ? My car is a Outlander 2015.
Thank you !
PAC Radio Replacement Interface
I am doing the same installation for my 2017 base grand caravan and your tutorial is extremely helpful!
Could you kindly confirm if I would need two different PAC modules for the installation? (PAC Radio Replacement Interface and PAC SWC module)
Thank you!:good::good: