I've been thinking about this for some time as I have some nice headphones (HeadDirect RE0) that I use with my Defy. But I miss having a microphone (taking/making calls without too much hassle). So I thought of cutting off the headphones of a Nokia stereo headset and putting a 3.5 plug so that I can have an extension cord with microphone.
I searched around the net but didn't find a good pinout so I opened the Nokias. They only have a 470ohm resistor (if I remember well). I tried to rewire those (to get a button push) with no success.
So I opened the original Motorola headset (quite easy and with no damage) to find quite a circuit inside. I'm putting the a picture of the circuit here, maybe someone with more experience can help me. The circuit is quite small and as I have minimum experience with circuits...
PS: I was thinking of getting a third party headset, but at about 10 euros... kinda expensive to break.
Heh, this is how i modded my headphones - got Creative EP-630 headphones, but no microphone, and sucking (compared to senn) motorola ones.... ...and voila!
Take pilot/microphone apart --> solder out old connections --> cut new headphones cord somewhere like 20 cm from headphone -->solder them in to original connection points.
EDIT:
Ohhh... and the worst part was to carefully remove original rubber gasket around original cables which were to be removed, and pulling/glueing new cabling through it. But the effect is awesome - there is almost no visual hint that someone modded them
..and sound quality....
I was thinking that I could get away with it without taking apart the original headset, but it looks like I'm slowly getting there...
Thanks for your reply!
I have a sony headset with mic, but they have the old sony ericsson socket. Could it be possible to solder a 3.5 jack onto them. Are the even selling 3.5 jacks with 4 rings?
I don't know if you could find a 4-rings 3.5 jack? Check the closest electronic parts shop. Or, if you have a Nokia headset lying around like I had...
From what I've found out the mic and headphones work OK just connected to the respective rings*, but what I couldn't make work is the button. As you can see in the attached picture, there are a few SMD capacitors.
*if I remember well, from tip: Left, Right, Mic, Ground (Corrected: Left, Right, Ground, Mic!!!)
Cheers!
NO.
There is right:
Left, Right, Ground, Mic
This is my modification:
Hey everyone. I am about to start installing a Nexus 7 in my 2003 Ford Mustang.
Goals:
Easy removal of unit.
-Temperature is near zero at some points in winter and over 100 in summer.
-Use of hard case to hold unit in place, possibly mounted by a small variation in the shape of my stock stereo surround and the use of strong magnets. If that does not work, permanently mounting hard case to stereo bezel
-Use of double din space behind the mounted nexus for the EQ and my boost controller to go.
-Fabrication of pogo pin system for easy connection/disconnection, allowing for charging and usb hub support while nexus is in its "cradle". Adapter for micro usb > pogo, to help reduce wear on the micro usb port of the nexus.
Stock look
-if I don't like the look then I will try and fabricate something to surround the nexus while it is mounted.
-modifying the stereo bezel is not an issue, they are cheap to replace
- Clean wiring and functional placement of components
Better than stock function and sound
-USB sound card
-manual volume control (making a volume knob that controls EQ that is accessible)
- Radio (I don't use it but its a selling feature if I have to sell the car)
-easy access to peripherals in case something needs to be adjusted or replaced
-no alternator whine or sub standard sound just because it is a tablet, in fact it must be better than what I have now
-GPS!!!
-WARDRIVING!! (I do not have a smart phone, so internet will come from WIFI for now)
Less than $500 (cost of a high end stereo with far less capability, also less than a decent carputer setup)
Future plans
- possible megasquirt engine management that is tied into the device so that I do not have to lug my laptop around when I tune my car (it sucks and is dangerous to try and use windows while driving fast), plug into 4 different USB devices, and deal with crappy UI's
- at the very least, integration of all of the data my tuning components are giving without using a laptop. OBD II may or may not solve this.
Components I have purchased so far:
-Used - Like new Nexus 7 (2012) - $129.99
Amazon
-Behringer UCA202 USB Audio Interface - $29.99
-DROK 12A/100W 4.5-30V to 0.8-30V DC Buck Volt Converter Step Down 12V Car Power Supply Voltage Regulator - $15.89
-Sound Storm Laboratories S4EQ 4-Band Graphic Equalizer with Subwoofer Crossover, VOLUME CONTROL - $30.98
-Metra 95-5026 Double DIN Installation Kit (not sure if I need it yet) - $10.04
- ( 3 ) Boss Audio Systems Car Ground Loop Isolator (one for each output) - $23.64
-AmazonBasics USB 2.0 A-Male to A-Female Extension Cable (9.8 Feet/3.0 Meters) - $5.99
- Right Angle OTG Cable Adapter for all Micro USB - $5.50
-Fosmon Crystal Hard Case for Google Nexus 7 - $2.97
-(2) Harwin 4P Spring Probe Connector (pogo pin connector) - $6.48
-(2) Molex Male Micro USB B (specs say male version but I bet I get female) - $1.74
- (2) Hirose Male USB connector with cradle (in case above doesn't work) - $3.54
Still need:
USB Radio Receiver
Knob for volume control relocation
MISC (bondo or epoxy, wire, etc)
Apps, cracks, mods to make it all work
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
While there are a few well documented car installs, I think there is always room for another. The main thing that I hope to bring to the table is (hopefully) creating a reproducible way to make a quick disconnect connector from the pogo. I checked on patents, and there is one already, so even if I felt like it was worth it, I probably couldn't mass produce them. So now the technique will be in the public domain (hopefully). The adapter should work for any micro usb device. It could be adapted for different connectors, possibly even using the Nexus 10 connector to add audio to the dock. You could also use 2 of the 4 pogo connectors, 1 for audio and 1 for usb. Anyway.
I am waiting for stuff to arrive. I will update once it does.
1/21/14
Deliveries!
Bezel
Bezel pics. Just got the hard case in today. Nexus 7 tomorrow. School sucks this semester so this may go slow
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Newest
eason86 said:
im thinking of doing a similar one like yours for a while. I want to connect 2 cameras to the Nexus7, one for reverse, one for front( crash cam, would like it to constantly recording once the car is running) have you seen anyone have done it?
For the audio, im not very fussy. Just trying to mount the N7 with stock CD player on( it has an AUX in socket)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I was looking at getting a couple of bluetooth HD webcams for front and rear like you are talking about. You could run a USB cable to both, or if you had a USB video card, a composite cable, but it seems easier to wire power at each location and use bluetooth. I would use the cameras for recording street racing, or if I ever take it to the track.
Just got the plastic for the case that will be behind the stereo. I bought Lexan at Lowes, and then realized that radioshack has the project boxes that they sell. The largest looks close to double din in width and height. It could be chopped up and then reformed using the glue that I bought for the lexan.
I also picked up the circuit boards from radioshack. a block of 4 of the pre-printed circuits is the same width as a usb end, which is what I was shooting for. The only issue is reducing wear on the contacts. I have a couple of ideas, including getting a cheap flash card and using that to make the circuit. 4 contacts on a flash card are the same width as a usb end as well (the plastic). The contacts for the flash card are made for wear, so it may be a better option.
Lexan was $3.98 a sheet I think, I bought 2. It is enough to make a box from. Plastic glue was ~$5.98 a tube x2. so ~$12.
Circuit was like $3.00, some solder and screws for mounting, total was ~$8. I am going to make the box tonight and glue it up.
NEXUS CAME TODAY! Only thing left is the USB/POGO parts.
Update
Been working on the bezel and the connectors the past few days in between homework. I finished the connector and has been epoxied into the bezel. Starting to come together. I took a lot of time working on the alignment of the connector as it slips into the bezel. The nexus does not move up and down really, but I still tried to make the connector hole as tight as possible so that I do not end up shorting the pins on the connector. I also epoxied the body and contacts of the usb adapter, which should also help the pins find their contact. I will take a pic of it once I get it all cleaned up.
So if anyone plans to do this, I went through 4 cables before I finally got it right. I would get close to the end, and a wire or pin would break from stress on the usb connector, or I accidentally cut into the cables and they are very small and hard to reconnect. What ended up working best was to get an $8 flat cable connector from Fred Meyer. It was in a little bin next to the register, but the flat cable and the cheap rubber/plastic that is used to form the connector made it very easy to get into it, short pin 4 and 5, and then put everything back together without ruining anything. The better quality connectors have a rubber that is hard to cut into, and as you are dissecting the connector, you run the risk of nicking the hidden wires. If you could find a cheap OTG cable, it would make everything much easier. Because I opened the connector, when I put it back together and fused the two rubber pieces with my soldering iron, the metal connector moved up and down inside of the rubber casing. Eventually it would have failed.
A few more hints: Don't use a soldering iron over 15W. I roasted everything when I accidentally set my iron to 30W. 15w is still hot, but not too much. 2nd: get one of the soldering stations with the clips and magnifying glasses from radioshack. OMG I don't know how I lived without this thing. SOOOOO much easier to solder with things held in place.
Btw, the first cable I cut into was an OTG cable, and there continuity with resistance between the black and green wire? 25 ohms. I was measuring the wires to see how my solder job was. I ended up digging into the cable, and doing so accidentally cut the black wire, so I had to scrap it.
Update
Painted the bezel in the car's factor color ($8 at O'Reilly for paint plus $20 for prep). Looks good. I realized that the magnets scrape the paint of the bezel as they attach, so I bought some black vinyl ($1.11 at walmart). Still deciding which side to attach it to.
I also got a soft on relay for powering the USB hub (maybe amp too), time is adjustable for power on. I assume the electronics won't like being cycled through ignition ($30). Still deciding if I want all of the stereo components to come on at the same time or just the amp and/or nexus.
I finished and mounted all of the components into the box, including the boost controller. Everything fit perfectly without modification. I removed my old stereo today to ship back to amazon and get a refund. If I finish my homework tonight at a reasonable time, I might have enought time to work on the wiring harness and have it in tomorrow to test without the soft on relay. Now that there is no stereo in the I bet I will get motivated to finish.
I will post pictures once it is installed and maybe of the wiring of the components.
can you please make a video.
How are you planning on turning the tablet on automatically?
I'm installing one in my car two, but I don't want to have to turn it on manually, and I plan on charging it 24/7. So I can't check when the power is connected (ie car started) because it will always have a power input.
I don't want to thread jack, but here's my removable nexus 7 install in my acura TSX. Works like a champ, turns on/off with the car, steering controls are all working...
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-electronics/94338-i-didnt-know-what-do-my-nexus-7-a.html
I've spent hours reading the various threads since getting my HU last Novemeber. Absolutely love it, especially with the Malaysk roms on, does everything I could want it to, except make a bloody phone call. If the other end can hear me it's very faint at best.
Mine was supplied by Pumpkin, they have tried to help with a microphone app and various settings, none made the slightest difference.
There were a few posts about adding an external mic by finding the BT card after dissasembly and wiring to the mic+ and Sgnd legs on the card. Last night I eventually bit the bullet and took mine completely to piecese. Unfortunately I couldn't find a BT card, maybe it's built in, or on chip or...... But I gave up looking for it. What I did find on the front panel was the original pathetic little mic, way back from the tiny hole. You can't drill it bigger as it knocks the mic out of place.
My fix, made simpler now I know what I'm doing (it took me a lot longer and many more steps.
Take off main case
Pull tape off DVD drive to extend ribbon cable
Flip up black tab at the back of the ribbon cable connection on the screen and slide out ribbon and put screen aside
Remove two small screws from the side of the faceplate and using a flat blade screwdriver release the faceplate
Flip up tabs on both ribbon connectors and remove ribbons, I found it easier doing the short one first
unscrew all circuit boards screws in the faceplate circuit (7) and remove faceplate
Drill a hole in the rear of the unit above the ISO connector to feed a cable through
Carefully desolder the horrible little mic from the right hand side of the circuit (labelled mic1) and clean the holes
Take a mini jack extension lead and cut off the male end - either a mono one or if stereo you want the wires for the top part and the middle part of the connector stripped and feed through the hole, I also put a very small tie wrap inside with the tag outside so I could hold the wire tight and not strain the solder - tightened after assembly
The positive (top part) goes on the inside connection. I soldered this to the top of the board
The ground goes to the other terminal - these are so close together that I soldered this on the underside to ensure no contact
Reassemble in reverse of above (making sure all faceplate buttons are in place (yes I forgot the eject and screen buttons)
Then connect any unpowered condenser Mic and all of a sudden fantastic vocie clarity, quite a phenomenal difference.
I used this mic from Amazon, https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01F84YMZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Happy for this to get merged into another thread, but I couldn't find one specifically about the mic problem with the single din unit.
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
ACSlater said:
Was there no factory fitted connection for an external mic? Mine does have one. Then it would be simple to just disconnect the internal mic right?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, no external mic connection on the single din units. Confirmed by Pumpkin. Bit of a silly oversight
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
intruda119 said:
Any pictures of what youu trimmed off?
got a 13 Durango
im about to trim
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
{
"lightbox_close": "Close",
"lightbox_next": "Next",
"lightbox_previous": "Previous",
"lightbox_error": "The requested content cannot be loaded. Please try again later.",
"lightbox_start_slideshow": "Start slideshow",
"lightbox_stop_slideshow": "Stop slideshow",
"lightbox_full_screen": "Full screen",
"lightbox_thumbnails": "Thumbnails",
"lightbox_download": "Download",
"lightbox_share": "Share",
"lightbox_zoom": "Zoom",
"lightbox_new_window": "New window",
"lightbox_toggle_sidebar": "Toggle sidebar"
}
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
danielqinz said:
See picture, about 1.5mm from the both sides, dry fit it first
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
intruda119 said:
I bought this to hook up harness and everything but can't get steering wheel controls to work. Do I need an additional module for swc? If so what's the part number.
Any pictures of wire setup?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Pictures of sinstall?
Trying to retain my oem backup camera but looks like I purchased the wrong harness. Made a mistake and purchased axxess harness. Will test.
danielqinz said:
You need PAC SWI-RC Steering Wheel Control Interface
Please see my paragraph regarding SWI module, set the module to 7(must do before connect to your car, and then follow instructions to program it_) you also need a 3.5MM jack (Philmore 3.5mm 1/8" Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Jack Headphone Jack) and find the two wires among the three that outputs resistive values when you press a button then connect to KEY and thin black ground
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
intruda119 said:
Sorry for bothering you but seems like the best person to ask.
I followed another tip to connect the pac swi wires to the key wire. It works but only my volume up/down work and nothing else. Any chance you can point me in the right direction.
The pac harness I bought is all in one so I dont need the seperate harness just for the swi. Thanks in advance.
Im getting feedback from the pac module(blinking red) with all button presses
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Try --
If you find out 3 related wires of SWC, to figure out which 2 wires are the positive of steering wheel control (shorted for "swc"), you can use a multimeter (connect to these 2 wires) to test if the resistor values change when you press different swc buttons, if it does change, it means one of the 2 wires are swc ground, and the other is positive, if not, then go on checking if the resistor values change between the swc ground wire and the other swc wire you found from car harness connector.
If you find out 2 related wires of SWC, either both of them are positive wires or one of them is ground wires. For the positive wires, you can connect them to either “Key” or “Key+” wire of the radio. For ground wire, you should connect it to the thinner ground wire of the radio.
Then you need to program each keys by pressing “Settings ￫Default settings ￫Steering wheel program￫Reset”. Click one key value from ATOTO and it will flicker, when you press one of the keys on steering wheel, the flickering would stop and the status should change, then this key is successfully programmed. Press "Save" to save your setting.
It is important to tap Reset before program it
Also check to see if you get resistive value change to make sure you programmed your SWI module right
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
have you tried use a multi-meter and get resistive readings? if the module does not output resistive values when you press the buttons, or it produces the same value, it might be the module is bad
Can you please share the specific model of the items you used?
A6?????
for the Can bus what adapter model did you ue please?
Thank you,
danielqinz said:
I fitted into my 2013 Dodge GrandCaravan and also added a rear view camera! Everything works exceptionally well including the factory steering wheel control
I am now Wazing and enjoying my music in my car!!
here are my parts used (sorry, being a new user means I can't post any links)
0: Atoto A6 2GB/32GB Unit --
1. Steering wheel control --
2. Rear View Camera --
3. Dodge Installation Trim Kit including Antenna adapter
4. Soldering iron and solder
5. PAC Radio Replacement Interface --
6. Trim Panel removal tool --
7. Dremel tool set (You need some cutting) --
8. Wire stripper --
9. Multi meter --
10. Electrical tape --
11. 3.5MM jack to three pin connector, (look for it in Radio Shack)
Now, get to installation,
1. pulling the factory radio is pretty easy, you just use the trim removal tool to get the radio panel off and then unscrew the four screws holding the radio in place. Once remove the screws, gently pull the radio out and disconnect the factory harness and radio connector, the radio connector is pretty fragile, be careful not to break it...
2. Connect the harnesses, open the PAC harness package, you need to determine which harness to use, for my car, it was the one with slightly bigger connector, try it on the factor harness first. Then lay down the color/wire mapping on your desk and start connecting the wires, PAC did not actually strip the wires so you need to do it, after strip the wires, gently twist so they connect better, then chris cross on with the ATOTO wires and solder the wires on, I like to put my soldering gun under the wire to heat them up and let them soak the solder rather than melt the solder using the iron, better conenction.. After solder, use tape to mask up the bare wires, you will connect all wires except three, the thin Ground wire, KEY 1, and KEY, go ahead and cover up KEY 1, you dont need that . Like picture 1
3. Wrap the harness, go ahead and wrap the harness so the wires dont go crazy
4. Install Steering wheel control (optional), open the PAC SWI unit package, and turn the dial to 7 before you do anything else, TURN THE DIAL TO 7 first. Then connect the 7pin connector (white) comes out from your PAC interface to your SWI unit, go to your vehicle, connect to factory harness and follow instructions from PAC (every car is different, you need to follow the factory instructions) and program it, then use the multiulmeter to find the pins output the resistive differences (this is a bit tricky, my suggestion is to solder wires to each pins on the 3.5mm connector (see pic 2) and then use your multi meter find which two wires output resistive values when you press a button) after you find the two wires, connect them to thin black ground wire and KEY wire (NOT KEY1), and then fire up the ATOTO unit and go to DEFAULT SETTINGS -- STEERING WHEEL CONTROL and see if it registers the presses, if not, swap the wires (because there is no clear way to tell which one is ground...) after you confirm its working, solder the KEY and ground wire
5. Placing the antennas, place them anywhere you like, even including inside the radio hole, but I went ahead and place the antennas across the trim and near the wind shield on the driver side so they get better reception.
6. Actually installation, because ATOTO is slightly higher than stock unit you need to do a bit cutting, first cut the TRIM Kit side panel about 2mm from both sides, then use Dremel to trim down the top and bottom notch of the stock Trim piece or until it fits
7. Back up camera is also fairly easy, hook it up with the reverse light and tuck the cable under the trim and you are good to go
Hope it is helpful, please leave me a message if you need any help!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
keithobri said:
I know this is a different vehicle and a different SWC (ASWC-1 vs PAC), but maybe you could give some suggestions?
I have installed the Atoto A6Y2721PB on my 2017 Honda Accord Sport. I am having an issue with the Axxess ASWC-1. I have updated both firmwares to the most recent versions. When I go to program the Steering Wheel Controls through the Atoto system, it is only recognizing no more than 3 of the buttons on the Steering Wheel. Right now it is configured for Pioneer/Jensen as that is what Atoto Customer Service recommended. However, the only buttons recognized are Volume Up, Seek forward, and Seek Backward. It does not recognize volume down, source, or any of the lower buttons: Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command. I tried every brand available on the ASWC-1 manual stereo program, as well as the Auto stereo program, and some recognize the source and volume down buttons, but none recognize the lower (Pick Up Phone, Hang Up Phone/Back, or Voice Command) buttons. I have tried wiring the Atoto to the 3.5mm female multiple ways as well, sometimes different buttons will work, but no more than 3. I am not getting any errors while setting up the ASWC-1, I get the 7 Green LED blinks, and the Red Solid LED as well.
This is installed with the Metra 99-7804 kit for my vehicle.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi !
I have the exact same problem. Did you find a fix ? My car is a Outlander 2015.
Thank you !
PAC Radio Replacement Interface
I am doing the same installation for my 2017 base grand caravan and your tutorial is extremely helpful!
Could you kindly confirm if I would need two different PAC modules for the installation? (PAC Radio Replacement Interface and PAC SWC module)
Thank you!:good::good: