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Hey guys,
Well I wish to start a small project, where a computer should be able to access wireless internet (3G/HSDPA), WiFi, make calls, maybe use bluetooth, etc... Then I realized that my old HTC TyTn II has all that features... And its faster than the PC im gonne use.
Problem is my HTC screen cracked. So I cant see anything. Thats why I wondered if its possible to set up a Headless Linux System. With that in place I could prob traffic all the things I need via usbnet to the PC (like internet).
The purpose...
Well the reason for this project is a small computer in my car. I ripped out a old laptop and started mounting it in my car. The laptop will then be used to control the HTC, seeing as I doubt one can add external inputs on the HTC. My laptop also has a 10GB HDD and a working screen. So a combo of the two seems fair...
Any advice on this would be very appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Xethron
I am about to do the same, replacing radio console.
I have some touchscreen lifebooks for this purpose, you can get one for
$100 $200 in miserable state, but to disassemble, who cares
idea was to change dpi in XP and replace explorer on startup, put a 8 button big startup window, with gps, media, video, internet
now you can hook up mobile by "Pocket Controller" it's a reverse remote desktop. you see mobile screen on pc
hope this get you some ideas
How insane is it that you have a computer that is slower then your phone?
There is a program to remote control your phone, I forget the name.
would it be the one I wrote in prev post
you can buy it at soti.net. working pretty good.
no, this one is free. I shall do some digging.
------- edit ---------
Cha Ching
http://www.mtux.com/
and a friend suggested this one.
http://www.julien-manici.com/
can't understand how could I have missed this when I was searching for one, and it's pretty old too. good tip, though too late for me.
Hey guys,
Thanks allot for the replies... I tried MyMobiler but it doesn't want to connect and seeing that I cant see the screen I am not sure whats happening... Appart from that you guys seem to be misunderstanding me totally!
Problem 1, MyMobiler only runs on windows, and I run Linux...
Problem 2, scripts cant be excecuted on the fly and communications between my two computers wont be possible with Windows Mobile.
Problem 3, Windows mobile crashes and my system will fail totally if my system ever crashes!
Besides, windows mobile have allot of junk I dont need. All I want is a simple Linux system on my HTC on which I can ssh in that will give no video output nor receive input from hardware, but that acts completely as a headless system.
It would also be cool if someone can tell me what hardware I can remove and how (Like the screen) in order to minimize power requirements...
So all I need is a version of Linux and a guide to install it so that all the functions work...
Hope this makes more sense...
Xethron
no Xethron, we didn't misunderstood you. I simply wrote what is my concept of laptop in car and ChumleyEX reacted further on my post too.
winmo is not stable, we all know that, but you should know too that linux is not so on winmo devices too. and that it is much more unstable.
It would be very nice indeed if there was no windows at all and everybody would be using linux, but if that would happen, linux would be the same commercial crap as is windows now, because that's what people are after. and that's the market. Nice fancy easy crap.
Though I encourage you to go with your linux idea, with a lot of effort, there could be perfect solution, but again, it would be much easier to just use what we've got.
If you would look around here, you'll see that on xda-dev you'll find a lot of solutions how to make a very tiny and fast winmo ROM. Stripped of all the crap. You can learn here how to strip even more, leaving only kernel + some drivers if you want.
What hw can you disconnect. I reckon you mean from pda. As you said screen backlight, that's a power eater, otherwise, devices could be turned ON/OFF from sw, which would by much safer/easier way. And you said you want to use them. instead, if you'll connect external antenna, that would spare you a lot of power while transmitting.
You should write more specific questions in order to get specific answers.
for example I am not getting it why you would want to spare 20mA consumption on some pda device and not better think about replacing HDD by CF card or ssd?
what would be your application requirements?
back for using pda in linux, it's in test state, you won't find any better working linux in pda as here. no one is hiding it nowhere. bluetooth is not working yet, phone functions are limited. wifi ok, but I doubt you could route it to PC.
as I doubt one can add external inputs on the HTC
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
yes you can. bluetooth can create virtual com ports. there are BT keyboards, pointing devices too. and generally anything else what uses com port could be made. even video can go out. (all just in windows of course)
for the pda remote programs:
you need a client on pda side. it's automatic simple installation. You may try soti controller it have trial period, with that one, you only need to press left soft key on kaiser to confirm client install. After you'll have this one workingt you would be able to see what you would need with the other one.
wow... that was a useful post!
The reason I want to use the phone is so that my PC can do all the things my phone can do... Reasons for this would be the following.
I come to my car. My phone syncs via bluetooth remotely to unlock my car. I get into car. Type password. Security system goes down... I stream songs via bluetooth to my pc which plays on the car speakers. I get out. Phone looses bluetooth connection and locks automatically. Someone comes and opens the door. PC picks up door is open and sets off an alarm. Phone calls me, and sends me a sms of the GPS location... If I dont respond it sends a email to all my friends. I connect to my car via ssh and keep track of its current position. depending on other connections I have made (Like you said bluetooth might be a good bet) i can controll parts of the car via ssh. Maybe install a fuel cutoff switch or whatever. With allot of effort I get my car back. Come home. It syncs wia wifi. New music gets uploaded... And my car is ready for day 2!
Simple direction of where I wanne go...
So now that you understand what I want to do... The linux on my HTC was a way for me to simply control the hardware and run a few small scripts... Wanne run some security scripts on the HTC instead of PC because it has the backup battery and the laptop will be running off the car battery...
I really don't care how we do this... But I know it must be possible to do all this somehow...
Let me know if you have some rad other ideas... As you can see I do not really want to "see" wats going on on my phone... It must be there like the PC of a car... Tell you the tempreture on some LCD. Let you know the water level is fine... But you dont see the PC... Thats my idea anyway...
Thanks for your help so far
I come to my car. My phone syncs via bluetooth remotely to unlock my car. I get into car. Type password. Security system goes down...
........
I get out. Phone looses bluetooth connection and locks automatically.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
bluetooth is a secure way, but not very safe, I've been using 3 different Hsets, with 2 diff phones, it kept on loosing connection and some even pairing. other thing, you need to iniciate BT connection (not always with audio, but yes with activesync) that means no touch-less access. and the last is battery consuption. I've been reading long time ago about an application for garage doors based on wifi connections. they discussed BT as well, decided wifi would be much better, try google (open garage wifi) there is even an soft for pda for this.
but there are $50 - $80 ready applications, it's years out there, I reckon the last version would be very reliable.
There is option to put serial GPS, which you can get off ebay for $50 (here is 5pcs for $50 now, if you'll buy it, i'll get two off you)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/5-LOT-Garmin...tem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a9b4b768
and the application:
http://www.bladox.com/products.php?lang=en
and I saw other brand with the same thing too.
with this bladox, you can simply set that if you take out key and open & close drivers doors it would lock with timer (that's option what most of available classic alarms too) or a button to lock with timer to leave could be hooked up.
you can set plenty of outputs and inputs, freely configurable. e.g remotely shut the engine, horn the horn, knock on window function...
consuption would be around 20mA on charging mobile. with car battery 100mA is a concern and 200mA permanent current is an issue. (all time running PC = 2A = 2000mA = NO WAY)
locking-unlocking could be done through ring (without answering) or sms.
I would say ring is pretty safe, as who would go through trouble of tempering with gsm switch control to fake your caller ID? (+ who would know about you have this setup + know your car phene num and your phone number)
and if a friend would call you he forget a wallet in your car, you don't need to get up of bed to unlock, just dial.
I stream songs via bluetooth to my pc which plays on the car speakers.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
audio quality isn't 100% plus maybe switching/pairing and your mobile needs to be on a charge for playing longer through BT -> no wireless.
use your phone in a disk drive mode and play from PC in car OR
your pda in car through SD to USB adapter (TwinMOS GoGo Egg Card Reader)
there would be limit 64GB for sure, maybe 2GB limit (is it SDHC compatible?)
I don't know nothing about it, only that it exists
Someone comes and opens the door. PC picks up door is open and sets off an alarm. Phone calls me, and sends me a sms of the GPS location.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
..
bladox can do + power on your PC which would start streaming video from web cam, you can call to car and tell the guy how he looks like and where he's going and that police is already waiting there.
It must be there like the PC of a car... Tell you the tempreture on some LCD. Let you know the water level is fine...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
ha, stop dreaming get OBD II and live it!
connect your car engine through cable OR WIFI!! to PC or PDA!! and look at all temperatures, compression levels, exhaust system, error msgs, and if you like make it active and let your car know you feel like having fun now, or maybe more econo mode other time.
OBD II - all cars since yr 96 on US market, $50 -$100 for interface (soft free)
So, I've seen a few threads asking what to do with an old G1. I, on the other hand, know what I want to do with it, but don't know if it's possible, or how I might go about it.
My G1, currently, sits on charge in my truck, and performs Nav and Media functions, utilizing my new Vibrant's internet connection when it needs.
But, here's what I'd LIKE it to be able to do... I'd like it to be hard-wired or hidden in my vehicle, for the following purposes:
1. GPS Tracking (of course)
2. Act as car alarm, at least permitting remote start and keyless entry, possibly intrusion alert, controlled by our other smartphones / PC's, via bluetooth, WiFi, or both
3. Take video feeds from multiple cameras on vehicle (including internal), and make them available for remote viewing
4. IF I can convince T-Mobile to sell me a Data-ONLY SIM Card, tether with it
5. And, lastly, act as a smart-power controller, powering up my main CarPC, when the engine is running​
This thing's quite capable, if I had to guess... I'd just like to see if anybody else is thinking along lines such as these, or has any ideas on how it might be accomplished?
1. GPS Tracking (of course) < Use lattitude
2. Act as car alarm, at least permitting remote start and keyless entry, possibly intrusion alert, controlled by our other smartphones / PC's, via bluetooth, WiFi, or both < Not going to happen
3. Take video feeds from multiple cameras on vehicle (including internal), and make them available for remote viewing < Also not going to happen
4. IF I can convince T-Mobile to sell me a Data-ONLY SIM Card, tether with it < you get a data plan for payg SIM?
5. And, lastly, act as a smart-power controller, powering up my main CarPC, when the engine is running < Sounds feasible, but you'd probably have to program that yourself.
I've seen these simple USB GPS receiver antennas that hook to a laptop for GPS duties so naturally I'm thinking why can't this be done for the nook. Ideally we would have a dual/split port so power could still be supplied at the same time.
I'd rather have this config since I don't like the idea of tethering to a GPS capable cell for privacy reasons and it ties up the cell too.
Why couldn't this be possible? Is it just a matter of the Nook recognizing the GPS antenna and being able to get a software package to recognize it?
Any ideas?
With CM7, and a bluetooth GPS reciever, this is no problem. We will never be able to build a GPS into the device, but we can get close enough...
Yes, my intention would be to leave the GPS antenna in the vehicle and just hook up when I get in. Along with MP3 duties of course. It shouldn't be hard to find or make a USB gender changer with dual connections.
KDOG2020 said:
Yes, my intention would be to leave the GPS antenna in the vehicle and just hook up when I get in. Along with MP3 duties of course. It shouldn't be hard to find or make a USB gender changer with dual connections.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Im not following, sorry.
I just ordered a "kit" for my NC actually - a car window mount, and a stand-alone BT GPS. I plan on attaching the the GPS to the window mount via velcro, and leave it in the car. You don't need USB at all (nor would it work, since our nook does not currently support usb host). Just get a BT module, and leave it in the car; connect it to the nook when you need it. done.
Ok I see what your saying. But Im not familiar with Bluetooth recievers. Are we talking about just a regular GPS with a screen and all? Then why hook it up to the nook? Or are we talking about a little box that just sits on the dash or tucked away somewhere?
KDOG2020 said:
Ok I see what your saying. But Im not familiar with Bluetooth recievers. Are we talking about just a regular GPS with a screen and all? Then why hook it up to the nook? Or are we talking about a little box that just sits on the dash or tucked away somewhere?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ah, let me fill ya in then.
What i am talking about are standalone recievers - nothing more than a GPS and BT transmitter. No screen, no frills. Most have batteries that will last for weeks, and are small enough to store anywhere in the car when not in use. YOu can see a good selection here:
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...eiver&keywords=bluetooth+gps+receiver&ie=UTF8
Hope that may give you some new ideas.
Aaaahhhh..... yes I see now. So it would be just a matter of finding one thats compatible with our NC's and the software for it... cool. Anyway to know which one works the best for the Nook?
KDOG2020 said:
Aaaahhhh..... yes I see now. So it would be just a matter of finding one thats compatible with our NC's and the software for it... cool. Anyway to know which one works the best for the Nook?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Now, i guess i cannot guarantee, but in theory, ANY BT gps should work with our system, since all GPS's transmit in the same standard. All you should need for software on the nook will be:
https://market.android.com/details?id=de.mobilej.btgps&feature=search_result
or
https://market.android.com/details?id=googoo.android.btgps&feature=related_apps
Assuming my GPS arrives sometime soon, i will be able to give ya some first hand advice.
You will still need a data connection if you intend to use Google Maps for your GPS software.
If you want to use it without a data connection, you will need something like this:
https://market.android.com/details?id=com.alk.copilot.market.usa&feature=search_result
"maps stored on your phone, not downloaded"
Also note, Bluetooth range is very limited on the NC. My BT GPS has to be within 2 feet of the NC to connect.
That is true, a stand alone program is the best, but google will cache the maps if you pre-plan the route.
As for distance - with a car mounted GPS< you really don't need to worry about that - the GPS should be by the windshield anyway, so keeping it close to the nook isn't an issue..
What about this Google "Navigation" program that is on the nook? (the blue arrow)
KDOG2020 said:
What about this Google "Navigation" program that is on the nook? (the blue arrow)
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
You'd still need a data connection. The best probable solution would be to tether to a smartphone that has GPS - so the Nook has a data connection for the Google Maps and Navigation, and GPS data from the phone's GPS.
I was interested in the same thing and went so far as to successfully pair my Garmin bluetooth gps unit with my CM7 nook, but I was not able to actually read any gps data. (This unit was successfully used with a linux laptop and car computer, so it works in linux.)
While looking for a way (hack or software) to read the gps data I found the TetherGPS app, which meets my needs- and yes, I have received phone calls and browsed the web on the phone while using nav on the nook without problems.
The biggest issue I have found in the past and NOW is that I do not think much of the other gps nav options available on Android (or linux!) and caching a limited tileset with Google maps is not enough for my needs. My routes often change.
I do have another bluetooth puck around, if I can find it... I will test to see if that one is easier for the Nook to read data from.
rogerdugans said:
I was interested in the same thing and went so far as to successfully pair my Garmin bluetooth gps unit with my CM7 nook, but I was not able to actually read any gps data. (This unit was successfully used with a linux laptop and car computer, so it works in linux.)
While looking for a way (hack or software) to read the gps data I found the TetherGPS app, which meets my needs- and yes, I have received phone calls and browsed the web on the phone while using nav on the nook without problems.
The biggest issue I have found in the past and NOW is that I do not think much of the other gps nav options available on Android (or linux!) and caching a limited tileset with Google maps is not enough for my needs. My routes often change.
I do have another bluetooth puck around, if I can find it... I will test to see if that one is easier for the Nook to read data from.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It will pair, but you need to use an intermediary program to access the GPS, like this one:
https://market.android.com/details?id=googoo.android.btgps&feature=related_apps
or this one:
https://market.android.com/details?id=de.mobilej.btgps&feature=search_result
or this:
https://market.android.com/details?...oid.addon.bluetooth.GPS&feature=search_result
I had trouble with some GPS apps.
I was able to use the GPS and data access on my Motorola Cliq to have GPS voice guided navigation.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?p=12076390
That is how I accomplished it.
If you have a hardware GPS, then you only need the 1 app, which is even easier, but I still recommend wifitether or barnicle for data access (you can download the maps for offline use if you plan ahead.)
colorado_al said:
It will pair, but you need to use an intermediary program to access the GPS, like this one:
https://market.android.com/details?id=googoo.android.btgps&feature=related_apps
or this one:
https://market.android.com/details?id=de.mobilej.btgps&feature=search_result
or this:
https://market.android.com/details?...oid.addon.bluetooth.GPS&feature=search_result
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I actually tried those apps to no avail, which is why I started looking for the other puck (not as accurate but easier to connect) and alternative solutions.
I actually had looked at all of the other (non- Google) nav apps for Android before to use with a now unused Droid (original) but found them all to be ... less than desirable for various reasons.
Note that I am NOT trying to discourage this project- it is possible, I am certain, but much like linux navigation software... lacking a certain "polish" if not functionality.
Does anyone understand why Android Auto actually requires USB to be plugged in (at least in the Sonata)?
I am also interested in this. But I read somewhere (take it with a grain of salt) it will only use WiFi in the future. But here is my question - When I use WiFi, data connection goes off. So how would data requiring apps such as Maps or Google Music work?
WiFi tethering would be a battery killer.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
km8j said:
WiFi tethering would be a battery killer.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Your car doesn't have a power outlet?
mike.s said:
Your car doesn't have a power outlet?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Doing that puts you right back to the issue of needing the phone plugged in...
km8j said:
Doing that puts you right back to the issue of needing the phone plugged in...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Exactly, and that's the main reason why USB is the primary method for Android Auto <> HU connections.
Many HUs do not contain GPS, so the phone GPS is used, and that eats a lot of power, particularly for navigation, Waze or any app that uses regular GPS updates.
Bluetooth does not have the bandwidth needed for video, never mind adding high quality audio too.
Wifi Direct is the secondary method for Android Auto <> HU connections and it works right now using my HU app. Google may have issues to try and fix before they make it official; they haven't even announced it yet, and if there are too many problems they may never announce or ship it.
Apple Carplay is expected to add Wifi support in the coming iOS update. It was supposed to be out earlier but likely it had problems.
It remains to be seen how (un)reliable AA and CP are over Wifi, in noisy RF environments in traffic. If your phone is in your pocket while Wifi tethering and doing navigation, it may get uncomfortably hot while draining pretty fast.
I think that for many people, the "inconvenience" of plugging and unplugging will be outweighed by the inconveniences of hot pockets/purses and drained batteries.
The story would be different if most of the "smarts" were inside the HU and the phone simply shared/synced some info (though just Wifi tethering alone can create heat and battery drain issues). The current model is that most processing occurs inside of the phone. This helps keep "ecosystem advantages" in the hands of Google and Apple, instead of the car and HU OEMs.
km8j said:
Doing that puts you right back to the issue of needing the phone plugged in...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The comment was about what happens if AA only works with WiFi. And you wouldn't always need to plug in (e.g. drive to the corner store), just for extended use.
Even when plugging in it's far preferable to USB networking - when using a USB (2.x) data connection, the phone is limited to drawing 500 mA by the USB specification. For many (most?) phones, that means the battery will drain if doing tether/GPS/cell data, and even if a phone can keep up with all of that, it will charge slowly. If doing a WiFi data connection, the USB charging spec can be used, and the phone can draw up to 1.5 A, enough to do WiFi tether, GPS, cell data and charge simultaneously.
mike.s said:
The comment was about what happens if AA only works with WiFi. And you wouldn't always need to plug in (e.g. drive to the corner store), just for extended use.
Even when plugging in it's far preferable to USB networking - when using a USB (2.x) data connection, the phone is limited to drawing 500 mA by the USB specification. For many (most?) phones, that means the battery will drain if doing tether/GPS/cell data, and even if a phone can keep up with all of that, it will charge slowly. If doing a WiFi data connection, the USB charging spec can be used, and the phone can draw up to 1.5 A, enough to do WiFi tether, GPS, cell data and charge simultaneously.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
If AA ever officially supports Wifi, it will be in addition to USB, as it is now. And other connection methods may be added in future, like Ethernet, but that will be more needed for "Android in the car" that runs Android on the HU.
You are correct.
The USB charging/powering limit also arises when people use USB Host mode or regular USB device mode for various reasons. Some devices have custom kernels that can bypass these limits, but that can create some issues as well.
Didn't see anyone mention the fact that media streaming is done digitally over USB - providing much higher audio fidelity than over Bluetooth. This could also be done over WiFi if/when that option comes to AA.
Pedrore said:
Didn't see anyone mention the fact that media streaming is done digitally over USB - providing much higher audio fidelity than over Bluetooth. This could also be done over WiFi if/when that option comes to AA.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not always.
My Pioneer 4100NEX is VERY insistent on putting audio over Bluetooth, and it won't even fail over to USB when the maximum of 3 BT devices are paired; just endless error message popups.
And there are at least 2 possible ways to put audio over USB:
- One is via Androids audio for accessory mode protocol, which only supports output (not mic input) and only 44.1K, 16 bits, 2 channels.
- The other is Android Auto's method which tends to use 48K, or 16K for voice.
My 4100 only connects to voice over Bluetooth when android auto is active. Media goes through usb
The 2.4 GHZ ISM band is *so* overcrowded already and is getting worse each year. Bluetooth, wifi and now the MNO carriers want on on that spectrum. A wired connection has *got* to be better in long run.
USB C which has native support for video, seems like the answer.
Hi everyone,
I am looking for a standalone watch : my issue is that I do not want to use internet access/google account on the phone, and since the Android Wear App needs them, I would like a watch that could be set up without the help of a smartphone.
Does the watch urbane 2 meet these criteria ?
If not, is there any watch that does ?
I have tried with the Zeblaze Blitz, which runs full android 5.1, but the problem is that i can not access the heart rate sensor on it which is my second requirement.
Thanks a lot !
Lsvdr said:
Hi everyone,
I am looking for a standalone watch : my issue is that I do not want to use internet access/google account on the phone, and since the Android Wear App needs them, I would like a watch that could be set up without the help of a smartphone.
Does the watch urbane 2 meet these criteria ?
If not, is there any watch that does ?
I have tried with the Zeblaze Blitz, which runs full android 5.1, but the problem is that i can not access the heart rate sensor on it which is my second requirement.
Thanks a lot !
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No the UB2 does not really do what you ask.
I have the UB2 and d/l the DP of AW2 to see "the future". It is a little more standalone but not fully standalone. You must use the phone/tablet Android Wear app to setup the AW device (UB2) and then copy the Google account to the AW2 (UB2) and then you get on the AW2 some degree of local standalone. It is early days, for example Google Hangouts seems to need the phone/tablet it is tethered to do function Hangouts on AW2.
Having said that, you can put distance between the phone/tablet and the UB2 as it does Wifi and LTE so the tethered functions will reach back to the phone/tablet.
In my experimentation, I could use a (paid for) local Browser app, local gmail and Office365 email client, and there is a surprisingly useful keyboard capability to reply not via voice.
Your dominating biggest problem is that the batteries are tiny in smartwatches, often 1/6th of a phone, so if you are using LTE it will drain significantly, if you are keeping the screen bright by engaging it will drain significantly. If you use GPS or the heartrate it drains.
So I'd say, set your expectations lower, to something like you're mostly with your phone and for brief times you put distance from your phone, a perfect example is a run or a swim, a short bike ride. It should get Android Pay so it should handle the quick trip to an AP compatible shop.
In my experience, the UB2 lasts about 4 hours when distant from phone, when near the phone >24 hours. Reading user feedback these vary a little by user but its that order of magnitude.
The UB2 also has a rather feeble battery connector unique charger cable and charges slowly, coming from a Sony SmartWatch3 which uses a generic USB cable and charges quickly, so if you did try to go long time standalone and carry the cable and battery, you'd need to be stationary so the cable is not jostled and plug it in every few hours for an hour or so.