I've searched for a long time and have done much research. Does anyone know of a definitive way to tether my Kaiser to my Mac running tiger? I've come across USB modem and PDAnet but I don't think they're solutions for me. PDAnet is specifically for Windows only. I know missing sync used to cooperate with Internet Sharing via usb but I'm not sure if that still works. Anyway I was hoping one of you geniuses might have a clue for me. As always, thanks very much for you time.
If you haven't stumbled upon this already, try WM WiFiRouter - http://www.wmwifirouter.com
WiFiRouter works for me. I get decent reliable connectivity w/ the Kaiser - On Rogers (contract account) tethered on 3G, average 1,550-2,500 kbps (speedtest) downloads. On AT&T (prepaid), average 500-1,250 kbps... perhaps slower as it's prepaid? To keep the battery topped up, I try charging the Kaiser w/ AC or via USB (trickle only).
Before WiFiRouter, I slaved through trying to get Mobile Stream's USB Modem to work. I gave up as the connection was really slow, and at the time, only available via bluetooth dun...
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=383651
I did receive an email in early June stating that USB Modem now supports USB connection to OSX. They provided the following link:
http://mobile-stream.com/demos/usbmodem_wm_trial.zip
Cheers.
definitely wmwifirouter
This application is a godsend and is quite obviously your solution versus USB tethering. Just take my word for it and buy it right now, http://wmwifirouter.com, or let me offer you a few reasons:
Firstly, the Kaiser does not have high-speed USB 2.0 (480Mb/s), it has theoretical "full speed" of 12Mb/s which in reality is nowhere near 12Mb/s and may be slower than what your HSDPA/UMTS/whatever connection can pump whereas wifi g's theoretical speed is a comfy 54Mb/s. So you elimintate a potential limiting reagent. Probably not an issue but maybe depending on your setup and location's coverage.
Secondly, when you're transferring data at speeds in excess of maybe 90KBytes/sec on the Kaiser while tethered, the Kaiser may start to eat over 500mA when your USB feed only pumps in, tops, a 500mA charge. With wifi, even though the wifi radio adds more consumption obviously, you've still got that little USB jack free to plug in your wall charger which gives it a steady amp, allowing you to bring in, in my experience with this program, up to 470KBytes/sec without discharging (though it gets hot as hell). Typically, either with bittorrent connected to many peers and pumping out 20KB/s or just a straight download of a Linux distro from a single server I get about 200KBytes/sec incoming with WMWifiRouter which competes with my home broadband with acceptable latency (low hundreds).
Maybe you're thinking, "Well, I'll be using this on the train where I can't plug in a charger so I should try to figure out how to do this with USB so I don't completely empty my phone before I get to work." Think again! Off-hand I don't remember exactly how much additional power the wifi radio on the Kaiser eats on its low setting, but you can just pop in USB into an Mac that's unconfigured for USBing with the phone and still get your ~500mA charge. Also you can play Robin Hood and hook your trainmates up with internet.
Thirdly, with this badass application, you can turn your phone essentially into an apparently full-fledged (albiet ad-hoc) router connected to the internet via DSL with mediocre latency: You can hook up multiple devices, you don't need to configure anything (most of the time you just install it, run it and click connect), if you go under a tunnel and lose the connection or you accidentally flip that dumb switch on your laptop and lose your wifi but turn it back on, no problem, it reconnects for you with the screen off. Up to 128 WEP if you're paranoid. I haven't tried it but according to Chainfire's commercial website you can feed internet from your phone into a normal router in order to get WPA. Port mapping, DMZ, traffic stats, you name it.
Hell, forget the technical reasons and just get it because it's fascinating to see what your phone can do with the right coding from some bloke not employed by AT&T or HTC or anyone up until the program left beta. But please, do not pirate the program. Don't. Chainfire's asking for twenty pounds/forty bucks for something he put hundreds (thousands?) of hours into that gives your phone a certain god-like quality.
Hello Bionic Community,
I pay for the mobile hotspot feature from Verizon and use it as my dedicated internet for my home. I have the phone connected to a sapido router and use USB tethering to distribute internet to everything at my house.
The connection is great!! The only problem that I notice is, is that if I stream a movie or video chat with someone, the battery on the phone takes a hit.
Is there a way to USB tether the phone and connect the phone to the wall power supply so that the battery does not drain so fast? I've investigated using a USB y-cable, but am scared to do this as I don't want to fry my phone or router.
What do you guys think? Can this even be done?
In theory you can ditch the whole cable to phone. What you could do is take the phone and wirelessly tether it to the router so that the router becomes a repeater then just plug whatever Ethernet cables you want into the router to give it a hard line connection. To do this you need a Lynksis (Cisco) router that has the option of becoming a wireless repeater, if yours does great. Google how to set up a wireless repeater.
What you can also do is what my friends and I do on the road. If you have an old laptop that has xp-or up ( i havent tested 8 yet) you could tether you phone to computer then in the wireless connections settings set it to where the computer is used to access the internet. Then send that connection out to a router. Also remember whenever you are using a 3g connection AND charging at the same time your phone will get extremely hot. Use an app to keep an eye on the temp. Good luck and happy tethering
I feel your pain, I think the best option would be, as waffleb051 described, usb tether to pc then share internet connection from that pc, windows ICS, so that you are charging the phone & also tethering 3g/4g from your phone. But beware of the battery temp.
I wish a smartphone would function like a laptop while charger is connected, it would draw the power directly from charger instead of drawing through the battery.
Just out of curiosity, how much data you are using per month for the whole house, on average?
I have been doing this for years except that my phone is rooted so I don't have to pay the rip-off fee of $30/mo for tethering.
I use an old Vista PC with a wifi usb adapter and then use ICS to share the Internet connection to my entire network (7 users). Then I just plug the phone into the phone's charger and let it rip. There have been no problems even when I leave it all connected for five days straight. Using the wifi option keeps the phone from getting too hot. Be sure to turn off features like GPS because if too many things are running, you may end up pulling more power than the charger can keep up with.
I run 20-30 gigs per month with no problem at all. And no slow downs or calls from big red.
I did try to set up my Belkin router as a repeater but it did not see the phone and thus, did not work. Not all repeaters will work.
.....I forgot the mention that android as of now cannot connect to and ad-hoc network so the router idea might be out, I will test it tonight and post results
Sent from my DROID BIONIC using XDA App
I am currently on day 22 of 29 on my cycle and I'm currently at 45 gigs. Sometimes I hit 80 if I watch a lot of movies / justin.tv. I use more data because I chose to cut the cable cord... this is how I justify to myself spending the extra $30 per month for the mobile hotspot feature.
I would have gone with the wireless tether feature, but for some reason, this is not stable for me. My copy of the bionic will reboot every hour or so when in wifi tether mode. I've used both the built in wifi tether option, as well as the wireless tether for root users. Any ideas to increase stability?
I agree that a better option would be to tether through a computer, but the sapido router is cheaper, lower power usage and has a pretty powerful wifi radio. I also understand that they make a portable version of the router. Maybe this portable version would be better to tether compared to a laptop?
The phone does get hot when I tether, but not that hot; even when I'm video conferencing. I'm thinking if the phone can get enough juice from the usb connection somehow, then the battery can be removed during extended need of the internet. Maybe someone knows of a battery AC adapter or something??
Thanks!
calimansi said:
I am currently on day 22 of 29 on my cycle and I'm currently at 45 gigs. Sometimes I hit 80 if I watch a lot of movies / justin.tv. I use more data because I chose to cut the cable cord... this is how I justify to myself spending the extra $30 per month for the mobile hotspot feature.
I would have gone with the wireless tether feature, but for some reason, this is not stable for me. My copy of the bionic will reboot every hour or so when in wifi tether mode. I've used both the built in wifi tether option, as well as the wireless tether for root users. Any ideas to increase stability?
I agree that a better option would be to tether through a computer, but the sapido router is cheaper, lower power usage and has a pretty powerful wifi radio. I also understand that they make a portable version of the router. Maybe this portable version would be better to tether compared to a laptop?
The phone does get hot when I tether, but not that hot; even when I'm video conferencing. I'm thinking if the phone can get enough juice from the usb connection somehow, then the battery can be removed during extended need of the internet. Maybe someone knows of a battery AC adapter or something??
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Are you in a 4G area? I am not but wish I were. You do know that you can root your phone and then drop the $30 free from big red yet still tether? Its what I a m doing for more than 2 years with no problems at all.
I have no stability problems doing it via wifi. I was getting data drops before the .902 update. I would take your phone back or call tech support and get it fixed before you root it. You paid good money and should expect good service from both the phone and big red.
I mean, this can't be that hard right? We know USB data can be transferred over WIFI. Thats probably what is behind the tech of the new wireless feature in the head units. The car has wifi, the head unit knows it and uses it with your phones WIFI and blue tooth in tandem.
I can't really rely on GM to update their Android Auto head unit even though my car has WIFI and it would be easy. They just wont do it. So, I was laying in bed brainstorming. There has to be some small dongle out there that plugs into the cars USB port and uses your phones wifi to connect to it and create a USB connection as if it was plugged in directly. Then the head unit wouldn't need the wireless feature.
Or, you plug the dongle in, and the the Android Auto head unit knows what it is, (just like if you plug an android phone in with Android Auto) and the dongle creates a wifi connection with your phone. Then the head unit wouldn't need the wireless feature baked in. This can't be that hard to come up with can it?
I think it may be possible using a few items
1.)Modified OpenAuto (already supports wifi) that redirects or clones AA data to usb
2.) Raspberry pi zero w
3.) this Zero usb adapter
I'd be willing to work on it, but seems like a big task to undertake to modify OpenAuto.
ashergray said:
I think it may be possible using a few items
1.)Modified OpenAuto (already supports wifi) that redirects or clones AA data to usb
2.) Raspberry pi zero w
3.) this Zero usb adapter
I'd be willing to work on it, but seems like a big task to undertake to modify OpenAuto.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that this in any way diminishes the amount of work involved, but I would 100% be willing to donate towards this venture. If you wanted to start a crowfunding or donation platform towards this I would get behind it in a heartbeat!
benmeroff said:
Not that this in any way diminishes the amount of work involved, but I would 100% be willing to donate towards this venture. If you wanted to start a crowfunding or donation platform towards this I would get behind it in a heartbeat!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
+1
Id love to see this too. more than willing to donate to make it happen
ashergray said:
I think it may be possible using a few items
1.)Modified OpenAuto (already supports wifi) that redirects or clones AA data to usb
2.) Raspberry pi zero w
3.) this [ RasPi URL HW Removed here]
I'd be willing to work on it, but seems like a big task to undertake to modify OpenAuto.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Also would want to donate. There is a market for this if stable and effective. Let us know.
This seems like it is possible if we get a device that works somewhat similar to how Nintendo used to allow wireless connections for their older consoles. They would connect a USB to a PC and bridge the wireless connection to the USB and LAN on the machine. We would need a USB dongle that can take the wireless commands and send them as if the phone was a native host connected via USB.
It'd be interesting to see if it could be done with a Pi Zero W, as the two technologies are *technically* compatible, indeed, when you connect to the Desktop Head Unit, it transmits TCP data over USB.
Unfortunately I don't have a Pi0W to give this a shot with
I'd be all about this.
[Android 3.0+]Proxy/GateWay for Android Auto
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sh...ers.com/showthread.php?t=3813163&share_type=t
Have a look here. It’s happening.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
That’s great.
Hi Guys,
what about this? Nothing? I've already checked the other solution, but I would like it much better if could be done it with RPi, "natively" redirect the data between wifi and usb. So the phone can connect normally directly by Android Auto app using wifi without any other 3rd app.
Could be possible? Of course I also would donate this project!!!
Best regards,
Géza
Yeah, apparently a Chinese company made this kind of usb dongle but only for carplay. They converted the factory head unit with carplay from wired to wireless.
I did asked if this will work for AA, but reply is no.
Any updates??
hzr34 said:
Any updates??
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
There is this one https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/aawireless#/
Just announced that they are in production:
AAWireless
AAWireless is now available via our official webshop: https://shop.aawireless.io | Check out 'AAWireless' on Indiegogo.
www.indiegogo.com
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
AAGateWay Documentation.
Beta released (04.01.2020)
What is it?
AAGateWay is a an app which should allow you to use an auxiliary (slave) device to connect your existing Android Auto compatible car to your phone (master) using a hotspot created on your phone.
How to use it?
SLAVE SETUP
1) Install the app using XDA Labs (Only on SLAVE) : https://www.b3itlabs.com/prod.php?id=3
2) Configure
FOR BOTH ROOTED AND NOT-ROOTED SLAVES
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Pair Master and Slave over BT (do this from the normal BT settings)
Open app
If slave is ROOTED and ONLY if you are using a TV STICK convert the app to system app. (if app not visible after conversion, reboot device)
Enable the start tethering option (If asked make sure you manually configure the hotspot, to have the name HUR and the password AndroidAutoConnect)
Select the masters phone BT MAC
Exit
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Create a Wifi hotspot from the master
Connect slave to it
Reopen AAGateWay and select the masters hotspot from the "Phone Wifi SSID" list
Slave is ROOTED - This will give a much bigger compatibility with cars, it should work with any car/unit (but depends a lot on the slave used, read below)
Slave is NOT ROOTED - This mode won't work on all cars and it has caveats.
MASTER SETUP
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Install WiFi Launcher for HUR (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borconi.emil.wifilauncherforhur)
Make sure WiFi Launcher is version 2.1 or higher!!!
Open WiFi Launcher
FOR Android 10, set permission location to ALWAYS!!!!!!
Select slaves BT from the BT list and exit
DO NOT ENABLE ANY OF THE OTHER OPTIONS!!!!
If you do not want to use WiFi Launcher you can use the following Tasker task to launch AA on any condition you want: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO-Z5P0oQpHEdrQjYqvSM48L1TI-K5g8/view?usp=sharing
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Open Android Auto, go to Settings, scroll down tap the version 10 times, then from the 3 dotted top right corner select start headunti server.
Exit Android Auto
Leave the Headunit Server running
When you get into the car turn on the hotspot on the master (or use Tasker, automate or anything else do that for you)
CONNECTING
Go to the car, plug in the slave to the car's USB and start the car
Slave is ROOTED
Nothing should happen, car should NOT detect the phone (SLAVE) at this stage. If the car does detect the slave being connected, it means your slave doesn't allow a proper USB toggle, in which case you should try enabling non-root mode.
Master is Pie and above
If you selected to tether from the slave, at this point you should see the slave turning on the hotspot, otherwise you might see the slave trying to connect to a Wifi network.
Slave will notify master
Master will automatically start WiFi Launcher
Master will connect to slaves hotspot
Master will start AA on the phone and notifies slave
Slave will enable USB
If you are using a phone as slave you will get a prompt if you want to use AAGW as the default app for this action, make sure you select ALWAYS ans yes. (TV stick should work automatically)
Projection should start
Slave is NOT-ROOTED (or running in non-root mode)
You will get a prompt to use AAGateWay for this action, make sure you select always.
Car should display a splah-screen saying waiting for master. (on some car's screen you might see a scrambled image)
After splash-screen is displayed, the slave will start tethering, or will try to connect to the masters hotspot depending on the setting.
Once a network connection is established between the 2 devices, you will see the AA icon turning on on the master and Android Auto should be displayed on the car's screen. It is possible that the screen will stay /turn black, if that happens, you can try to press the home button on the infotainment system, then re-open Android Auto on it.
Troubleshoot and getting help
As the thread has so much information it will be really nice if we can try to stick to one format of troubleshooting, by using one of this 2 templates:
Master is running Pie or above and slave is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave actually turned on the hotspot on the slave: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the slaves BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up?: (Yes/No)
Did the master connected to the slaves hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the AA icon appeared on the master at all (in the notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Master is running Oreo or below and master is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did you select the masters hotspot name in AAGW?: (Yes/No)
Have you started the Headunit server on the master?: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the cars BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up (notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Did the master turned on the hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave connected to the masters hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Getting rid of all automation and manually starting it all (regardless of Android version on master and slave):
Uninstall AAGW on the master
Start the headunit server from within Android Auto on the master
Create a hotspot on the master
Open AAGW on the slave and make sure it's not set to tether
in AAGW make sure you select the masters hotspot
If AAGW is set to non-root mode make sure you select the masters BT (just press the button AAGW will do a BT scan of nearby devices and you can pick it from the list)
Go to the car and plug the slave in
Start the car
If slave is running in ROOT mode, slave will first try to connect to the masters Wifi and you will see a notification on the master that AA is running, only then the car should recognise a plugged in device.
If the slave is running in non-root mode, first you will see a splash screen on the car, then you will see slave connects to masters Wifi (if not already connected), then you will see AA starting on the master.
How do I collect a bug report / logcat
Open Settings > About phone.
Scroll down to the Build number.
Tap the Build number 7 times in quick succession until "You're now a developer" appears.
Return to the Settings menu and select Developer options.
At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to On (green).
Scroll down to Debugging and enable both USB debugging and Bug Report Shortcut on (green).
Tab on Logger buffer sizes: Default setting is 256K. Select 16M to help capture more information for debugging. Of note, it can affect the apps performance especially with lower spec phone, so change it back after you have finished submitting bug reports.
On slave make sure you enable debugging inside AAGW, on master open Android Auto go to developer settings and make sure force logging is enabled.
Reproduce the problem
Hold the Power button down until the menu appears.
Select Take bug report. and wait for the device to capture the bug report.
Tap the 'Bug report captured' notification when it appears.
Send the bug report by email to [email protected]
Know problems, workaround:
- Latency & lag. This will be really down to the devices you are using. I have tested it with a MK808B Plus, it work’s ok most of the time but occasionally you will get the odd lag. I’ve also tested it with a Nexus 7 tablet, and there was no lag at all, so device does matter, as well as probably ROM.
- I get random disconnection. There can be 2 causes for this, one the USB connection fails between the car and the auxiliary device, or the Wifi fails between the phone and the auxiliary device. In my tests I saw a few Wifi disconnections without any reason on the MK808, but non on the Nexus. Changing the tethering option from WPA2 to Open did help with this.
- App is closed without error or reason. The app runs in a background process, with a minimal interaction with the foreground, some devices/OS will kill background apps. I saw this happening on Nokia and I saw this happening on OnePlus as well. Try disabling battery optimisation for AAGateWay, that might help.
- I just cannot get it to work… Try using a phone, that will at least give you some visual guidance. Make sure that your device connects to the phone Wifi hotspot, make sure that AA Headunit server is running on the phone (try to force stop Goolge Play Services, stop and restart the headunit server)… All fails contact me
- Nothing happens on the master, using Wifi Launcher for HUR app. In this case, try to manually start the headunit server on the master, and manually turn on a hotspot, then reconfigure you're slave to connect to the masters hotspot (even if the master is running Pie or higher).
Device compatibility:
Master:
Any phone which normally works with Android Auto
Slave with ROOT:
- Tested and know to work: - MK809V, Nexus 7 (depending on rom), Sony X Compact (depending on rom)
-Tested and not working as expected: Pixel 2, MK808B
- While root is necessary, not all phones can toggle USB port on and off by software. And there can be other problems, for example on some devices when you turn off the USB the phone loses the ability to detect the power connection as well, which is use as trigger to start the whole process. It is almost impossible to predict if a phone will be a good slave candidate or not.
Other things
- Xiaomi phones (MIUI makes a mess), try not to use it for Slave
- Generally older phones (pre oreo) are more likely to work fine as a slave device.
Any suggested slave?
- Yes, use an MK809V TV stick, as the experience with it, is pretty slick and it should work out of the box. If you get a MK809IV try to get the one with Android 5.1.1 as the one with Android 7.1 has problems with the tethering.
FAQ.
Q: Can I use this with any car and phone combination?
A: Assuming your car is already Android Auto compatible, then YES.
Q: Can I also automate the start of the Headunit server?
A: Only with a rooted phone, using the following shell command: am startservice -W com.google.android.projection.gearhead/com.google.android.projection.gearhead.companion.DeveloperHeadUnitNetworkService
Q: Can I use Wifi-Direct to connect instead of WIfi?
A: No.
Q: Does the traffic come out from my monthly data allowance?
A: NO, traffic between auxiliary device and phone hotspot does NOT count as internet traffic, HOWEVER if you do have other apps on the auxiliary device which download updates, etc in the background that WILL be counted as internet traffic. So I suggest double check the apps on the aux device and disable all those which aren’t needed.
Q: Will the car/head unit provide enough power?
A: It should provide at least 500mA that’s the standard USB current, while I cannot guarantee that will be enough in all cases, it should do, assuming you do turn off all unneeded services on the TV stick.
Q. What about start up time?
A. It will depend a lot on the device you are using. A low-entry TV stick boot time is about 1 minute, which can be a bit too much for an initial car setup. As mentioned earlier, these devices usually have 2 USB ports, you can for example connect the power USB port to a continues power supply in the car, in which case the boot time will be non-existent since the device is always running. If you are using a phone, the phone battery will probably hold the charge just fine for a couple of days, if you disable all apps on it and you set up a profile to go into aeroplane mode when it’s not charging. Tasker or Automate are your friends for that. If you cannot connect the TV stick to a continues power source, you might consider using a small portable power pack which powers the tv stick (should hold power for a few days) and the power pack can be charged while the car is running.
Q. Can I decrease boot time for TV Sticks/Phones by removing all unrelated software.
A. Yes, actually quite a lot. Once you have your configuration ready and everything is working as expected, you can uninstall/disable all packages beside this ones:
package:android
package:com.android.apkinstaller
package:com.android.providers.settings
package:com.android.packageinstaller
package:com.notriddle.null_launcer (or any other launcher, but NULL launcher has no memory consumption, no app drawer no nothing, perfect for headless - see: https://github.com/notriddle/null-launcher )
package:com.android.inputmethod.latin
package:com.android.settings
package:uk.co.borconi.emil.aagateway
package:com.android.shell
package:com.android.systemui
Easy way to list / disable all apps will be using a computer and following commands
Code:
adb shell pm list packages
This will list all installed packages
Code:
adb shell pm disable xxxx
where you replace xxxx with the package name (Ex: com.android.shell )
Q. Will using Wifi 5Ghz give me better performance?
A. Well if both of your devices support it, SURE!
Q. Is the source code available?
A. Sort-of, please see: https://github.com/borconi/AAGateWay this is only for the sketch, however new version does contain code which lift restrictions on 3rd party apps in Android Auto. To prevent the abuse of this by some, further code won't be updated to GitHub, however if you want to build your own version, please do contact me for details.
Guarantee or Warranty
- Due to the fact that there are so many possibilities and combinations of cars, head units, slave and master devices, there is no way for me to test all of them, however if you did purchase the software and you are not able to get it to work for any reason, please email me on [email protected] and I'm more then happy to refund the purchase.
Teaser:
VERY interested in the progress on this, Emil. For one, this would allow me to charge my Samsung using the Quick Charge adapter in my cigarette lighter, rather than relying on the anemic power output of my truck's USB port. Or if I want to get fancy, I could install a wireless charger and use that.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Another great idea.
Definitely interested..
thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I thought of you instantly when I saw this thread on Reddit, but didn't imagine that you were the creator.
Congratulations and thanks again!
Jackos said:
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly no, that will require altering the firmware on the car and each unit is different. It is possible that those unit might get an official update for Wifi support, but although I'm not 100% certain, I think it will only work with 5Ghz Wifi network, so if you're unit is 2.4Ghz only probably it won't get the update.
If I will ever have times (something which I never have ) I might look into adding this to some units out there, but that is so far down the line, that realistically speaking probably will never happen.
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
This is awesome news! looking forward to progress!
lukesan said:
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Emil Borconi said:
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
lukesan said:
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, sounds like a bit of an issue that you can't really test since we'll have no screen. Well maybe a sort of a config txt file. Most of us will have to clear the thing on a tv screen or monitor anyway because a lot of crap is installed on these devices. I guess it makes sense to have something that can show if the stick is getting data from the phone. There is always a way.
Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offense to obd2aa, I use it daily, but I'd be interested in this even without it
Where is the APK to give it a try ?
Emil Borconi said:
Currently only a placeholder for those interested in the project while working on development.
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
If you are interested in this project please simply subscribe to this thread and follow the updates.
Teaser:
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Click to collapse
I'm interested, I have a Tahoe with AA and an Android stick. Your project sounds great, can't wait!!
You should have it by the 17th of July, I'm just in the middle of rewriting another app, once I completed that I will focus on this one. I'm going away on a holiday on the 17th of July so I'm really pushing to have it out there by then.
Having the same XAV-AX100, and I was pissed off when I heard that in order to use wireless android auto it needs to be replaced.
Great idea, can`t wait to test it.
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
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jeromeo01 said:
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
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Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Emil Borconi said:
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its exactly the same.
Mini PC stick, but using windows 10 as OS.
Just a little bit more expensive. But I already have one to try. [emoji6]
https://www.windowscentral.com/best-stick-pcs
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Hello, I have searched the forum for this topic and I have not found anything related. I've been reading you for several weeks and today I decided to register.
A month ago I bought the Sony XAV AX 100 radio and I am delighted with it. But I can't make Android Auto work with bluetooth, without cable. I have a Samsung S8 and, in the Android Auto app I have checked the option to start by bluetooth automatically but it does not start when I connect the phone to the radio. Can anybody help me? I think it is Sony XAV AX 100 problem that should not support android car with bluetooth, only with cable.
Thank you very much and greetings.
darnelldani said:
A month ago I bought the Sony XAV AX 100 radio and I am delighted with it. But I can't make Android Auto work with bluetooth, without cable. I have a Samsung S8 and, in the Android Auto app I have checked the option to start by bluetooth automatically but it does not start when I connect the phone to the radio. Can anybody help me? I think it is Sony XAV AX 100 problem that should not support android car with bluetooth, only with cable.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
That headunit doesn't support Android Auto wireless (which uses Wi-Fi). AA will only work if your phone is connected via USB.
You could connect the phone via Bluetooth only and play music and/or use handsfree telephone. But not AA.
Android Auto, because it uses the GPS, is a battery suck. I'm not saying that's a problem, it's just a fact. You would want to plug your phone into power while using AA anyway.
I use NetDot Gen10 magnetic USB cables, and it makes it more convenient, especially since I use both AA and CarPlay.
dragon_76 said:
Android Auto, because it uses the GPS, is a battery suck.
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That's inaccurate. If the headunit has GPS, Google Maps when running via AA will use that instead of the phone's GPS. I've heard that Google requires AA wireless HUs to have a GPS, but can't point to anything authoritative to back that up. All the units I've seen which support AA wireless (JVC/Kenwood and Pioneer) include GPS receivers.