Database Develop

802.11 via XDA connector ?

They have GPS receivers that work through the bottom cradle connection for IPAQs they also have other devieces like keyboards that work like this.
Would it be possible to develop a 80211 dongle that could click into the
cradle port? is anyone working on this? is there anyone that would have
enough knowledge to beging working on this i could contact. I would love to get 802.11 for this baby.

Dan said:
Would it be possible to develop a 80211 dongle that could click into the cradle port? is anyone working on this? is there anyone that would have enough knowledge to beging working on this i could contact. I would love to get 802.11 for this baby.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No, sorry. The XDA connector on the bottom supports USB and serial. However, the USB will only do 'Slave Mode', i.e. act as a USB device towards a computer. There are USB 802.11 devices, but they work as devices as well, and thus need a 'Master' to talk to. And there's no serial 802.11b transceivers out that we know of.
You could conceiveably build a USB device that plays the master role and feeds the IP through just like ActiveSync does, but nobody has done that yet. For the manufacturers this shouldn't be that hard, given the amount of spare processing power on these 802.11 tranceivers. (And while we're at it, we might as well incorporate a GPS connected to the serial port...)

hmm
so this won't be something that a little hacking group such as XDA developers would be capable of?

Hi
In a short time a wireless lan card will be available which you can plug into you SD Slot. See http://www.sychip.com/wlan-module.html
See ya
Mick

Helllo.
I don´t think, that the wireless lan card will work in the XDA. In the technical PDF there is a picture that shows a SDIO-Interface.
XDA still do NOT have a SDIO-Interface.
Regards
Stefan

hold on, why do u need a wireless lan card? I thought the xda was a wireless device, surely it ought to have wireless connectivity built into it? If you had a corporate wireless network, cant it just be configured to connect?

Of course it has wireless support, using GSM and/or GPRS and infrared. But WLAN support is something entirely different, and that is definitely not included.
Shouldn't be too hard to design a WLAN adapter acting as an USB master though. With the pass-through functionality built into the activesync software it has definitely been shown that the USB connection can be used for network access.

bamse said:
Shouldn't be too hard to design a WLAN adapter acting as an USB master though. With the pass-through functionality built into the activesync software it has definitely been shown that the USB connection can be used for network access.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yo bamse,
Ever want to be very, very popular ? You would make hero of the month on our charts, that's for sure...

What about these guys:
http://www.datahunter.com
I know it's RS232 and not USB, but apart from that the Liberator should do the trick almost straight away, and they also advertise a module that could be built into a sleaker package:
OEM 802.11 WLAN Mini-Modules
OEM and ODM manufacturers can incorporate FCC ?Modular? pre-certified 802.11b mini-modules into their products. The Data Hunter 802.11 mini-modules have the Operating System Wireless LAN software drivers built-in. Interface options are the ones Engineers need, including high-speed async logic-level or RS232, SPI processor interface, USB and full Ethernet TCP/IP. No additional FCC certification required for the modular 802.11 data radios. Start shipping integrated WLAN immediately. Includes single antenna for bulkhead mount or dual diversity antennas

bamse said:
What about these guys [...]
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I could be wrong, but from their site I get the strong impression none of it is done, and they'll start work on it the minute someone orders a few thousand.
Also: they base everything on the Compact Flash 802.11 cards with some extra hardware, which is unlikely to pretend it's a PC running ActiveSync straight out of the box, so some extra work is in order.
What we need is a CF 802.11 card that comes with an SDK for adding your own code. No need for extra parts and power consumption: the card should have enough spare cycles to pretend it's ActiveSync on Windows plus the USB. (Or serial at 115.200 if that's somehow easier). Then all we need after the two manmonths of coding is a nice plastic stick-one case and we're done...

Ok, how about this then:
http://www.tuanistechnology.com/products/avaya/converter/
Or this:
http://www.autodnc.de/ctwlani.htm
You'll find a whole bunch of them out there, all serial and 115200bps, but none of the companies seem to have identified the PDA-owners a market for their produkts.

I'd say most of these products use way to much power for PDA use.
Really, let's not build stuff that's already on the PC or CF card to begin with.

Anyone found a way to access 802.11b yet? I see that Linksys has the WCF12 (The Wireless CompactFlash Card installs directly into your Pocket PC using a CompactFlash Type I or Type II slot). I think that fits the IPaq. I need one for the SX56.
I saw some creative ideas above. Anybody try matching the pin-outs yet??

:roll: Sigh. Read my lips. It won't work. It's not a matter of "pin-outs." It's far, far deeper than that on both hardware and software.
And really, would you want to access an ethernet network at 115k??? What for?

LumpiStefan said:
Helllo.
I don´t think, that the wireless lan card will work in the XDA. In the technical PDF there is a picture that shows a SDIO-Interface.
XDA still do NOT have a SDIO-Interface.
Regards
Stefan
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
While I doubt that anyone will, it ought to be a small task to design a Bluetooth interface that will work with SDIO or SD either as a polled device or memory mapped I/O. For Bluetooth this should produce acceptable results --- for 802.11b clearly it would not.

It won't work. It's not a matter of "pin-outs." It's far, far deeper than that on both hardware and software.
And really, would you want to access an ethernet network at 115k??? What for?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It certainly seems doable. What is the limitation on the SX56 that does not exist on iPaq? And since I struggled through years and years of 36K dialup before DSL, for the limited data access needed for a PDA, 115K seems like heaven. Noone is going to treat it like a workstation. But access to remote data has a wide range of applications.

The iPaq has an expansion port, the XDA does not.

Carlos:
If you have a quick look at one of the links I have provided above you should find that there are a couple of solutions available for anyone who would like to connect a 802.11 device to a serial port. They may be a little bulky and power hungry, but that can surely be taken care of.
There will be 256MB SDIO card with built-in 801.11, right? What about a 256MB SDRW card with built-in SDIO and USB-host? With the USB/serial/power/peripheral connector of the Qtek sitting next to the SD-slot you could easily build a device that connects to both "ports". Wouldn't it be nice?

wi-fi stuffs for Qtek
Hi Bamse,
Could you tell me what exactly that I would need to purchased
to have my Qtek works with wi-fi? Thank you.

None of it exists today. Everything posted so far is theoretical. It will never exist. There's no market for it.

[Q] Cat 5 connection? When no wifi

Probably a dumb question but can we connect the NC to a fixed line (Cat 5) internet connection. Sometimes no wifi but a wire connection is available.
Of course would need some type of USB to Cat 5 connector.
Does such a thing exist?

I don't know if you'll find what you're looking for, but i'm not ruling out the option.
Meantime, if you can access a cat5 line, and you're looking at buying hardware anyway, why not get a wireless access point?
(I am curious to see if you can do what you are asking, and I don't want this thread to die on the 'get an access point' cop out)

CAT5 Ethernet? Sure, wait until B&N redesign the NOOK and do expect another inch thicker, still want it?

I have a motorhome sitting beside my house and cannot get a wifi signal so I ran a cat5 cable out there to a cradelpoint wifi unit so I now have wifi through the coach.
Sent from my NexusOne using Tapatalk

Assuming a driver is available in the kernel for the Ethernet chipset in question, you *might* be able to use something like the Wii USB-to-Ethernet adapter combined with a USB type converter. I've no idea at all what it will do to the normal network stack, but it's _theoretically_ possible.
Rodney

votinh said:
CAT5 Ethernet? Sure, wait until B&N redesign the NOOK and do expect another inch thicker, still want it?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Actually not really, XJack.
But seriously though, ethernet on a tablet. Heh.

Defeats the purpose of a tablet. Becomes a slablet

ikingblack said:
Defeats the purpose of a tablet. Becomes a slablet
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I just happened to see this. That is great!
FWIW, I've seen some no-name Android tablets that have a dongle which provides USB ports and an RJ45 jack for a wired ethernet connection.. Does kinda defeat the purpose of a tablet though..

scoob8000 said:
I just happened to see this. That is great!
FWIW, I've seen some no-name Android tablets that have a dongle which provides USB ports and an RJ45 jack for a wired ethernet connection.. Does kinda defeat the purpose of a tablet though..
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not at all, it would be great to be able to use my Nook to configure Routers and program firmware, maybe even to use the Nook for some tethering. I would be able to finally get rid of my battery sucking, heat factory of a UMPC.
If anyone finds a way to get a usb Ethernet adapter working with the Nook please so share.

joenathane said:
Not at all, it would be great to be able to use my Nook to configure Routers and program firmware, maybe even to use the Nook for some tethering. I would be able to finally get rid of my battery sucking, heat factory of a UMPC.
If anyone finds a way to get a usb Ethernet adapter working with the Nook please so share.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Didn't even think about it that way.
I know they got Ubuntu running on the NC (Not sure how well). Surely there is a wired usb nic that supports Ubuntu. I'm thinking that might be the best way.
I just bought my NC, should be here in a few days. I might just have to play with this..

What about Dalingrin's Nook Tweeks app? Using 'USB Settings > USB Host Mode' can we possibly attach a USB NIC?
I have not played with the USB Host Mode just yet, but I know I got excited when I saw it

Just wanted to link to [webcam support] USB Host support that YOU can try (now in nightlies)...some interesting discussion going on over there too....

Not too sure if I understood correctly your current setup, hopefully I won't recommend you something you have already done/thought about.
For the moment, a quick an easy way would be to plug a wireless router at the end of the network cable and then setup the wireless network. You could then connect to that wireless router with your nook.
Basically, it would look like this (inline text doesn't make a good illustration, but it's better than nothing)...
Router 1 ------(network cable)---------Router 2)))))))(wifi wave)))))))Nook
Sure you will need to setup the router correctly, but it's still very easy to do.

Using The Nexus S 4G As A Dedicated Router

First before people ask...no I can't get a decent ISP in my new apartment complex. They have a "deal" with some horrible small-time cable company that I've never heard of, and all the neighbors hate it. On top of that I have talked my work into paying for the account I plan on using for this since it's "required" so that I can work from home as needed.
That being said, I've done some initial speed tests at my new place and I get a consistent 11Mbps/3Mbps over Sprint's 4G/WiMAX, which is more than enough for my needs. I know that will fluctuate, but even so I'm excited about this project!
So sure I could just dump WiFi Tether on a rooted NS4G and leave it be, but I want to try taking it to the next level. What I'm thinking is a full-time router, much like a pfSense/SmoothWall/Vyatta distro, using the WiMAX (And 3G as a backup) for the WAN and the WiFi for the network connectivity. Unless I can figure out a better solution I would probably use a WRT54GL with dd-wrt to act as the wireless bridge for my wired clients.
It'll always be plugged into power, so battery isn't an issue (But a nice bonus for when the power does go out). I would like to have an always running bandwidth monitoring screen that I can just glance at. Of course there would be remote monitoring/configuration, as well as some built-in "apps".
I know this is a big task to take on, but I need something to focus on in regards to getting into the development side of things and I think this would be a great place to start. However I've got some questions that I think ya'll could help me figure out:
1 - What should I do for providing services like DHCP, DNS, Port Forwarding, NAT, etc? I know it would require some heavy lifting but I could cross-compile standard linux based apps like dhcpd right?
Or does anyone know of that perfect app that might help me get a head start? I don't mind using different apps/services and then focusing on making them all work together, but if there is a "simple" solution already that would be fine by me!
2 - Since it's not going to be a multimedia demon, is there a particular light-weight, almost console-only ROM that might serve to be the best base to build from? I would think something that is more geared towards running desktop-based applications versus the standard apps.
3 - WiMAX needs to work of course, how would that play into it?
4 - Is that anything that might allow me to plugin a standard ethernet cable? I don't think I've seen a mini-usb to ethernet yet...do they have a mini-usb to regular usb at least?
I know these are very basic questions, but I just want to get a pulse on if this is just an unobtainable idea or not. I don't think it is, it's basically a different way of getting to a MiFi. Also if anyone knows of anyone elses past attempts at this I would love to know where I can read up on it in. Thanx in advance!!!

My phone overheats if it tethers for hours upon hours. Gets kind of annoying. I suggest you buy a external charger and another battery so you don't have to play " let the battery cool down" game.
I had the same issue on my other 2 smartphones while tethering (Samsung instinct with ported 1.6. And optimus s)
I would say try finding a loophole or move. Slow internet is a whore. I use hot sport off my phone to my ps3. And I can only play from 11pm-6am lag-free.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk

Are you oc'ed or something I tether my phone for hours a day and havent had it over heat except for when I was oc'ed above 1.2ghz.

There are a few issues with this.
1.Restrictive firewalling policies on the ISP side. Blocked ports/ throttling.
2.Added latency from wireless > wireless bridge. With wireless you will need to tether to a wireless bridge with ethernet ports for your computers. wrt54g and the like with dd-wrt work fine for this. A linux computer with a wireless card would also work. Tethering with USB to a linux computer that you can edit the iptables rules would be best.
3.Double NAT. This is something you must avoid to have a proper connection. With wireless your tethering program is going to use NAT, but then your bridge will probably also use NAT. This will leave you with a very convoluted connection. Tethering with USB would probably also be best here. In the past when I have used USB tethering (motor razr) the host PC gets assigned the true WAN address of the phone via a virtual adapter. Thus this would only require setting up NAT/ iptables once on the host PC.
My suggestion would be to exchange the phone/plan for a 3g/4g data card that works with GNU/Linux and setup NAT that way of course along with an ethernet switch. Good luck with it.

Jason_25 said:
There are a few issues with this.
1.Restrictive firewalling policies on the ISP side. Blocked ports/ throttling.
2.Added latency from wireless > wireless bridge. With wireless you will need to tether to a wireless bridge with ethernet ports for your computers. wrt54g and the like with dd-wrt work fine for this. A linux computer with a wireless card would also work. Tethering with USB to a linux computer that you can edit the iptables rules would be best.
3.Double NAT. This is something you must avoid to have a proper connection. With wireless your tethering program is going to use NAT, but then your bridge will probably also use NAT. This will leave you with a very convoluted connection. Tethering with USB would probably also be best here. In the past when I have used USB tethering (motor razr) the host PC gets assigned the true WAN address of the phone via a virtual adapter. Thus this would only require setting up NAT/ iptables once on the host PC.
My suggestion would be to exchange the phone/plan for a 3g/4g data card that works with GNU/Linux and setup NAT that way of course along with an ethernet switch. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
But he would then be giving up unlimited data as a result of leaving the phone plans.
Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk

[Android 4.1+]Proxy/GateWay for Android Auto

Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
AAGateWay Documentation.
Beta released (04.01.2020)
What is it?
AAGateWay is a an app which should allow you to use an auxiliary (slave) device to connect your existing Android Auto compatible car to your phone (master) using a hotspot created on your phone.
How to use it?
SLAVE SETUP
1) Install the app using XDA Labs (Only on SLAVE) : https://www.b3itlabs.com/prod.php?id=3
2) Configure
FOR BOTH ROOTED AND NOT-ROOTED SLAVES
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Pair Master and Slave over BT (do this from the normal BT settings)
Open app
If slave is ROOTED and ONLY if you are using a TV STICK convert the app to system app. (if app not visible after conversion, reboot device)
Enable the start tethering option (If asked make sure you manually configure the hotspot, to have the name HUR and the password AndroidAutoConnect)
Select the masters phone BT MAC
Exit
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Create a Wifi hotspot from the master
Connect slave to it
Reopen AAGateWay and select the masters hotspot from the "Phone Wifi SSID" list
Slave is ROOTED - This will give a much bigger compatibility with cars, it should work with any car/unit (but depends a lot on the slave used, read below)
Slave is NOT ROOTED - This mode won't work on all cars and it has caveats.
MASTER SETUP
CASE 1: Master is running Pie or higher
Install WiFi Launcher for HUR (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.borconi.emil.wifilauncherforhur)
Make sure WiFi Launcher is version 2.1 or higher!!!
Open WiFi Launcher
FOR Android 10, set permission location to ALWAYS!!!!!!
Select slaves BT from the BT list and exit
DO NOT ENABLE ANY OF THE OTHER OPTIONS!!!!
If you do not want to use WiFi Launcher you can use the following Tasker task to launch AA on any condition you want: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UO-Z5P0oQpHEdrQjYqvSM48L1TI-K5g8/view?usp=sharing
CASE 2: Master is running Android 8 or lower
Open Android Auto, go to Settings, scroll down tap the version 10 times, then from the 3 dotted top right corner select start headunti server.
Exit Android Auto
Leave the Headunit Server running
When you get into the car turn on the hotspot on the master (or use Tasker, automate or anything else do that for you)
CONNECTING
Go to the car, plug in the slave to the car's USB and start the car
Slave is ROOTED
Nothing should happen, car should NOT detect the phone (SLAVE) at this stage. If the car does detect the slave being connected, it means your slave doesn't allow a proper USB toggle, in which case you should try enabling non-root mode.
Master is Pie and above
If you selected to tether from the slave, at this point you should see the slave turning on the hotspot, otherwise you might see the slave trying to connect to a Wifi network.
Slave will notify master
Master will automatically start WiFi Launcher
Master will connect to slaves hotspot
Master will start AA on the phone and notifies slave
Slave will enable USB
If you are using a phone as slave you will get a prompt if you want to use AAGW as the default app for this action, make sure you select ALWAYS ans yes. (TV stick should work automatically)
Projection should start
Slave is NOT-ROOTED (or running in non-root mode)
You will get a prompt to use AAGateWay for this action, make sure you select always.
Car should display a splah-screen saying waiting for master. (on some car's screen you might see a scrambled image)
After splash-screen is displayed, the slave will start tethering, or will try to connect to the masters hotspot depending on the setting.
Once a network connection is established between the 2 devices, you will see the AA icon turning on on the master and Android Auto should be displayed on the car's screen. It is possible that the screen will stay /turn black, if that happens, you can try to press the home button on the infotainment system, then re-open Android Auto on it.
Troubleshoot and getting help
As the thread has so much information it will be really nice if we can try to stick to one format of troubleshooting, by using one of this 2 templates:
Master is running Pie or above and slave is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave actually turned on the hotspot on the slave: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the slaves BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up?: (Yes/No)
Did the master connected to the slaves hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the AA icon appeared on the master at all (in the notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Master is running Oreo or below and master is tethering:
Running in root mode: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, is the splashscreen visible on the car: (Yes/No)
If running in non-root mode, did you set the masters BT inside AAGW app?: (Yes/No)
Did you select the masters hotspot name in AAGW?: (Yes/No)
Have you started the Headunit server on the master?: (Yes/No)
On the master did you select the cars BT in the Wifi Launcher app?: (Yes/No)
When the master connected to the car's BT did the Wifi launcher app started up (notification bar)?: (Yes/No)
Did the master turned on the hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Did the slave connected to the masters hotspot?: (Yes/No)
Getting rid of all automation and manually starting it all (regardless of Android version on master and slave):
Uninstall AAGW on the master
Start the headunit server from within Android Auto on the master
Create a hotspot on the master
Open AAGW on the slave and make sure it's not set to tether
in AAGW make sure you select the masters hotspot
If AAGW is set to non-root mode make sure you select the masters BT (just press the button AAGW will do a BT scan of nearby devices and you can pick it from the list)
Go to the car and plug the slave in
Start the car
If slave is running in ROOT mode, slave will first try to connect to the masters Wifi and you will see a notification on the master that AA is running, only then the car should recognise a plugged in device.
If the slave is running in non-root mode, first you will see a splash screen on the car, then you will see slave connects to masters Wifi (if not already connected), then you will see AA starting on the master.
How do I collect a bug report / logcat
Open Settings > About phone.
Scroll down to the Build number.
Tap the Build number 7 times in quick succession until "You're now a developer" appears.
Return to the Settings menu and select Developer options.
At the top of the screen, make sure 'Developer options' is set to On (green).
Scroll down to Debugging and enable both USB debugging and Bug Report Shortcut on (green).
Tab on Logger buffer sizes: Default setting is 256K. Select 16M to help capture more information for debugging. Of note, it can affect the apps performance especially with lower spec phone, so change it back after you have finished submitting bug reports.
On slave make sure you enable debugging inside AAGW, on master open Android Auto go to developer settings and make sure force logging is enabled.
Reproduce the problem
Hold the Power button down until the menu appears.
Select Take bug report. and wait for the device to capture the bug report.
Tap the 'Bug report captured' notification when it appears.
Send the bug report by email to [email protected]
Know problems, workaround:
- Latency & lag. This will be really down to the devices you are using. I have tested it with a MK808B Plus, it work’s ok most of the time but occasionally you will get the odd lag. I’ve also tested it with a Nexus 7 tablet, and there was no lag at all, so device does matter, as well as probably ROM.
- I get random disconnection. There can be 2 causes for this, one the USB connection fails between the car and the auxiliary device, or the Wifi fails between the phone and the auxiliary device. In my tests I saw a few Wifi disconnections without any reason on the MK808, but non on the Nexus. Changing the tethering option from WPA2 to Open did help with this.
- App is closed without error or reason. The app runs in a background process, with a minimal interaction with the foreground, some devices/OS will kill background apps. I saw this happening on Nokia and I saw this happening on OnePlus as well. Try disabling battery optimisation for AAGateWay, that might help.
- I just cannot get it to work… Try using a phone, that will at least give you some visual guidance. Make sure that your device connects to the phone Wifi hotspot, make sure that AA Headunit server is running on the phone (try to force stop Goolge Play Services, stop and restart the headunit server)… All fails contact me
- Nothing happens on the master, using Wifi Launcher for HUR app. In this case, try to manually start the headunit server on the master, and manually turn on a hotspot, then reconfigure you're slave to connect to the masters hotspot (even if the master is running Pie or higher).
Device compatibility:
Master:
Any phone which normally works with Android Auto
Slave with ROOT:
- Tested and know to work: - MK809V, Nexus 7 (depending on rom), Sony X Compact (depending on rom)
-Tested and not working as expected: Pixel 2, MK808B
- While root is necessary, not all phones can toggle USB port on and off by software. And there can be other problems, for example on some devices when you turn off the USB the phone loses the ability to detect the power connection as well, which is use as trigger to start the whole process. It is almost impossible to predict if a phone will be a good slave candidate or not.
Other things
- Xiaomi phones (MIUI makes a mess), try not to use it for Slave
- Generally older phones (pre oreo) are more likely to work fine as a slave device.
Any suggested slave?
- Yes, use an MK809V TV stick, as the experience with it, is pretty slick and it should work out of the box. If you get a MK809IV try to get the one with Android 5.1.1 as the one with Android 7.1 has problems with the tethering.
FAQ.
Q: Can I use this with any car and phone combination?
A: Assuming your car is already Android Auto compatible, then YES.
Q: Can I also automate the start of the Headunit server?
A: Only with a rooted phone, using the following shell command: am startservice -W com.google.android.projection.gearhead/com.google.android.projection.gearhead.companion.DeveloperHeadUnitNetworkService
Q: Can I use Wifi-Direct to connect instead of WIfi?
A: No.
Q: Does the traffic come out from my monthly data allowance?
A: NO, traffic between auxiliary device and phone hotspot does NOT count as internet traffic, HOWEVER if you do have other apps on the auxiliary device which download updates, etc in the background that WILL be counted as internet traffic. So I suggest double check the apps on the aux device and disable all those which aren’t needed.
Q: Will the car/head unit provide enough power?
A: It should provide at least 500mA that’s the standard USB current, while I cannot guarantee that will be enough in all cases, it should do, assuming you do turn off all unneeded services on the TV stick.
Q. What about start up time?
A. It will depend a lot on the device you are using. A low-entry TV stick boot time is about 1 minute, which can be a bit too much for an initial car setup. As mentioned earlier, these devices usually have 2 USB ports, you can for example connect the power USB port to a continues power supply in the car, in which case the boot time will be non-existent since the device is always running. If you are using a phone, the phone battery will probably hold the charge just fine for a couple of days, if you disable all apps on it and you set up a profile to go into aeroplane mode when it’s not charging. Tasker or Automate are your friends for that. If you cannot connect the TV stick to a continues power source, you might consider using a small portable power pack which powers the tv stick (should hold power for a few days) and the power pack can be charged while the car is running.
Q. Can I decrease boot time for TV Sticks/Phones by removing all unrelated software.
A. Yes, actually quite a lot. Once you have your configuration ready and everything is working as expected, you can uninstall/disable all packages beside this ones:
package:android
package:com.android.apkinstaller
package:com.android.providers.settings
package:com.android.packageinstaller
package:com.notriddle.null_launcer (or any other launcher, but NULL launcher has no memory consumption, no app drawer no nothing, perfect for headless - see: https://github.com/notriddle/null-launcher )
package:com.android.inputmethod.latin
package:com.android.settings
package:uk.co.borconi.emil.aagateway
package:com.android.shell
package:com.android.systemui
Easy way to list / disable all apps will be using a computer and following commands
Code:
adb shell pm list packages
This will list all installed packages
Code:
adb shell pm disable xxxx
where you replace xxxx with the package name (Ex: com.android.shell )
Q. Will using Wifi 5Ghz give me better performance?
A. Well if both of your devices support it, SURE!
Q. Is the source code available?
A. Sort-of, please see: https://github.com/borconi/AAGateWay this is only for the sketch, however new version does contain code which lift restrictions on 3rd party apps in Android Auto. To prevent the abuse of this by some, further code won't be updated to GitHub, however if you want to build your own version, please do contact me for details.
Guarantee or Warranty
- Due to the fact that there are so many possibilities and combinations of cars, head units, slave and master devices, there is no way for me to test all of them, however if you did purchase the software and you are not able to get it to work for any reason, please email me on [email protected] and I'm more then happy to refund the purchase.
Teaser:

VERY interested in the progress on this, Emil. For one, this would allow me to charge my Samsung using the Quick Charge adapter in my cigarette lighter, rather than relying on the anemic power output of my truck's USB port. Or if I want to get fancy, I could install a wireless charger and use that.
Thanks for all of your hard work.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?

Another great idea.
Definitely interested..
thanks.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I thought of you instantly when I saw this thread on Reddit, but didn't imagine that you were the creator.
Congratulations and thanks again!

Jackos said:
Hi Emil,
What about original headunits that have integrated Wifi, but do not have Wireless Android Auto enabled? Is this something that you could enable to work as well?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Sadly no, that will require altering the firmware on the car and each unit is different. It is possible that those unit might get an official update for Wifi support, but although I'm not 100% certain, I think it will only work with 5Ghz Wifi network, so if you're unit is 2.4Ghz only probably it won't get the update.
If I will ever have times (something which I never have ) I might look into adding this to some units out there, but that is so far down the line, that realistically speaking probably will never happen.

Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?

This is awesome news! looking forward to progress!

lukesan said:
Very interesting idea. I have a couple of these android sticks here and maybe even a modern mediabox that might offfer a bit more performance. I guess you want to power it from the USB socket from the car. Not sure how much current you can draw from these ports.
What is the pc below the radio doing?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly

Emil Borconi said:
Performance is not really needed the slowest device should work just fine. You can theoretically disable all processes and apps, so even a device with 512Mb ram will do.
Indeed I'm taking power directly from the headunit/car in the demo I use an MK808B powered directly from the Sony XAV-100 which only provides like 500mA, so should do (especially if you kill all apps which can use CPU and turn of everything but Wifi on the stick).
The PC is the power source , to lazy to make a separate power switch so I powered the Sony from my PSU directly
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.

lukesan said:
Ok, got the Mk802, 808 etc etc so I might finally have a good destination for those. Lazy and working is a combo that also works. :good:
Wondering if there is like a beta test thing, or is it complex to get it up and running? I'm pretty sure a lot of people are seriously interested in this. It would offer the freedom of charging your phone the proper way.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.

Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible. I also need to do find a way to set the defaults without plugging into the car, you won't really be able to plug in a HDMI screen when you plug it in the car.
I've started fully rewriting my HUR app moving all the code from C to Java, once that is done and I fix other issues with obd2aa I will be pushing this forward
Ideally I will like to have a release available before I go on holiday on the 17th of July but not sure I will manage to do it all by that time.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yup, sounds like a bit of an issue that you can't really test since we'll have no screen. Well maybe a sort of a config txt file. Most of us will have to clear the thing on a tv screen or monitor anyway because a lot of crap is installed on these devices. I guess it makes sense to have something that can show if the stick is getting data from the phone. There is always a way.

Emil Borconi said:
Not that far away, the only problem this will be braking my fix for obd2aa, so I need to make the 2 things compatible...
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No offense to obd2aa, I use it daily, but I'd be interested in this even without it

Where is the APK to give it a try ?

Emil Borconi said:
Currently only a placeholder for those interested in the project while working on development.
Background
- Couple of years ago Google have launched Android Auto, but up till recently the only way to connect your device to the car/head unit was to plug in a USB cable. As of 2018 this starts to change, BUT it looks like you will need to get new hardware for this and older cars/head units won't be upgraded to support this, neither phones with older OS.
Concept
- Since many of us will like to have this wire free but not ready / willing or have the possibility to upgrade the units/cars/phones I have thought of a way to achieve this, by using a small auxiliary device, like for example a very cheap and basic Android TV stick, which can be plugged in/mounted in the car and which can fulfil the roll of a Wifi antenna for your car.
This app should allow you to transform any android powered device into a Wifi receiver for your Android Auto compatible Car/Headunit. Please do not confuse Android Auto, with Android powered headunit (usually Chinese, like MTCB, MTCD, Joying, etc).
If you are interested in this project please simply subscribe to this thread and follow the updates.
Teaser:
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I'm interested, I have a Tahoe with AA and an Android stick. Your project sounds great, can't wait!!

You should have it by the 17th of July, I'm just in the middle of rewriting another app, once I completed that I will focus on this one. I'm going away on a holiday on the 17th of July so I'm really pushing to have it out there by then.

Having the same XAV-AX100, and I was pissed off when I heard that in order to use wireless android auto it needs to be replaced.
Great idea, can`t wait to test it.

Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
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jeromeo01 said:
Do you think it can works also with windows stick.? Or only android?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.

Emil Borconi said:
Never heard of a windows stick... Any link/reference? In theory it can work with almost anything but since Android Auto need Open Accessory, Android device will be the preferred option, having all the classes already available.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Its exactly the same.
Mini PC stick, but using windows 10 as OS.
Just a little bit more expensive. But I already have one to try. [emoji6]
https://www.windowscentral.com/best-stick-pcs
Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

Android Auto / Apple Carplay via T Link app

Hey there
so i saw this app called T Link the other day being used by someone that claimed to bring wireless carplay to every Android Head Unit.
Does this app work? I tried it out myself and i keep gettings errors but no connection.
Does the app need Root Acces maybe?

Link to the app. The only thing I find is a screen mirroring app with bad reviews, specific to JVC headunits, which uses a USB connection, and has nothing to do with either Carplay or Android Auto.
First, if it provides Carplay capability to an AA headunit, it would run on an iPhone (IOS), not Android. Second, if a headunit doesn't support wireless AA, no app is going to allow a Carplay device to connect to it wirelessly, so "every Android Head Unit" - nope.
Seems you're missing something here.

UnknownShadowUser said:
Hey there
so i saw this app called T Link the other day being used by someone that claimed to bring wireless carplay to every Android Head Unit.
Does this app work? I tried it out myself and i keep gettings errors but no connection.
Does the app need Root Acces maybe?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Hi. I dont know about apple product but as far as an android user the T-link app provides for me wireless AA without fail.
Have not once experienced a dropout of connection loss or anything.
Only issue is what is an AA issue, and thats maps not being able to switch day/night mode by itself
Best regards
Using Tlink 1.7.7

mike.s said:
Link to the app. The only thing I find is a screen mirroring app with bad reviews, specific to JVC headunits, which uses a USB connection, and has nothing to do with either Carplay or Android Auto.
First, if it provides Carplay capability to an AA headunit, it would run on an iPhone (IOS), not Android. Second, if a headunit doesn't support wireless AA, no app is going to allow a Carplay device to connect to it wirelessly, so "every Android Head Unit" - nope.
Seems you're missing something here.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The Tlink app is installed on ur android headunit. It connects your phone, either android or Ios to AA.
So he is actually spot on in his discovery
Best regards

Hey guys thanks for the help but I think the problem that I am having is a different one now.
So my headhunt does not support Apple CarPlay from the start.
I bought a adapter and tried to install the app that It comes with but nothing… no signal.
So the issue seams so be that there is not enough power coming out of the USB port.
When I use a splitter and plug the end for power into the lighter usb charger and the data one into the usb dongle it works no problem but it looks ****ty …
Any way or any adapter that I can get this fixed with?

Btw the head unit charges my phone without the adapter for about 3 seconds and then it Just shuts off

GekkoDtf said:
The Tlink app is installed on ur android headunit. It connects your phone, either android or Ios to AA.
So he is actually spot on in his discovery
Best regards
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
So, has nothing to do with Android Auto, where apps are not installed on the head unit. So, he's actually completely missed the mark for posting in the wrong forum.

mike.s said:
So, has nothing to do with Android Auto, where apps are not installed on the head unit. So, he's actually completely missed the mark for posting in the wrong forum.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Yes and no. Since you use the Tlink app to connect to AA. And that is installed on Head unit. Its not really a AA question, but related to that.
Since some need either Tlink or Zlink to connect to AA it might be more correct to move to a different thread than one thats about AA, but then again.
Im not a mod so not sure =)
But this is a different matter and not what was supposed to be the topic
Some with a bigger brain will surely help us out

UnknownShadowUser said:
Hey guys thanks for the help but I think the problem that I am having is a different one now.
So my headhunt does not support Apple CarPlay from the start.
I bought a adapter and tried to install the app that It comes with but nothing… no signal.
So the issue seams so be that there is not enough power coming out of the USB port.
When I use a splitter and plug the end for power into the lighter usb charger and the data one into the usb dongle it works no problem but it looks ****ty …
Any way or any adapter that I can get this fixed with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
I have seen someone talking about an adapter for this specific reason, but tbh you might wanna look in the headunit threads.
Tho if you google adapter for carplay there is quite a few hits, tho seems expensive.
Try and look in TS10 / Px6 head unit threads, there are some clever ppl there who is really helpfull
Best regards

UnknownShadowUser said:
Hey guys thanks for the help but I think the problem that I am having is a different one now.
So my headhunt does not support Apple CarPlay from the start.
I bought a adapter and tried to install the app that It comes with but nothing… no signal.
So the issue seams so be that there is not enough power coming out of the USB port.
When I use a splitter and plug the end for power into the lighter usb charger and the data one into the usb dongle it works no problem but it looks ****ty …
Any way or any adapter that I can get this fixed with?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
The carlinkit 4.0 I am using is very good, it supports both wireless carplay and wireless android auto.
Product-U2W plus
Download Autokit Apk file and install it in your android car stereo. Let your car have CarPlay and be wireless.
autokitcarplay.com