What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
hkk said:
What's the deal with the battery on this phone. It takes several hours (3-4) to go from (near) 0 to 100% charge, with USB.
And, when using navigation on the phone, with a car charger plugged in, the phone still loses a little bit of charge. All other phones I had, they would charge somewhat slowly with the GPS on (since GPS is using draining a lot), and never seen one that loses charge even while connected.
I have tried 2 different car chargers, both aftermarket though. Do you see the same?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Most of the car chargers only deliver 500mAh - when your phone is plugged in, go to settings-> about phone and see if it says AC or USB charging. You also need a car charger that is rated at more then 500 mA.
But even with a charger rated at more then 500mA - the phone still thinks it is plugged into USB. I got around this by modifying a USB cable - I connected the data lines together on the micro usb end and the phone thinks it has AC power and charging keeps up with GPS.
BTW I am using a 2 port car charger (2 1Amp USB ports) Griffin I think, but i tested with many others, and after other internet searching realized the wall charger shorts the data wires and we can mimic this on a car charger.
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
hkk said:
alphadog,
Thanks for the reply.
Can you give more details on how to connect the data lines together? And, no issues doing that?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
No issues for me. First - use a decent USB cable. Also, see this thread for more info... one of my posts is page 2. Page one shows you an easier hack for testing - no cutting required.
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=774665&highlight=battery
I took a USB cable and did all my work on the micro end - where the connector for the phone is. I stripped back some of the outer insulation, so i could work on the inner wires. I didn't cut the whole end off. The two wires that are not red and black are the data wires. I cut them, stripped them, and soldered them together. These 2 wires are from the micro plug end, so i created a loop back or connection of the 2 data wires at the plug end.
Phone
V+ Red wire -------------------------------USB Plug @ Car Charger
D+ ----------------| connect
D- ----------------| these 2 wires
V- Black wire ------------------------------ USB Plug
Related
I'm having problems with kaiser charging when using HSDPA and even slow connections like 3G and EDGE.
Problem is that it charges for about 20-30 minutes (connected to a powered 1Amp USB hub or even with AC charger), then charging light goes off and battery power starts to drop by about 5% every 20-30 minutes.
Have anyone tried 2Amp chargers? It seems like it may be the problem with kaiser itself, since it charges itself but then just stops and will not charge itself until I soft-reset it.
PS: it gets kinda warm, but I wouldn't call it hot. Dunno if its related to temperature.
Any ideas?
Am I the only one with this problem? If so, maybe I should return the phone and exchange it for a working unit?
No, I have the same problem here.
When I use my kaiser in the car (usually navigating) the orange charge light initially lights up, but after a short period goes out. When I disconect and connect the USB-cable, the light temporarily comes on again.
I am using a 1A car charger. I do notice the charger feels a bit hot when in use, so maybe the kaiser is drawing more power than allowed? I can imagine the charger overheating which causes the voltage to drop. Which probably causes the kaiser to stop using USB power. But this is all speculation.
I am planning to use a 5A voltage regulator to 'upgrade' the USB charger, and see if this solves the problem.
--After a bit more reading, I found some info about the kaiser detecting if it is connected to a charger or a USB host device, and regulating it's maximum charge power accordingly. So I will try a modified USB cable to let the kaiser know it can get 1000mA from the car charger.
It's not the USB charger. I have 2A and 3A Olympus Camera chargers that I modified to use as a USB charger. Also cheaper 1A AC chargers. I thought the Olympus chargers would be perfect, because they were high amperage, and built solidly. I had the same charge problems with the TyTn II, and an iPod Nano. They would either charge partially and then stop, or not charge right away, but the charge light would come on after awhile. But still only partially charge.
My guess is that the chargers that work may have a load added in, so that the switching regulator will turn on with any additional load from the device, and stay on. I never found any information on this, though.
What does work: The USB chargers made for any PDA phone. Apple iPod chargers. I bought an 800ma iPod charger (probably a clone). It's a small white cube, with a USB outlet, and interchangeable AC plugs. It charges the Nano, and the TyTn II OK. The Nano last for a week now, instead of 2 days. The TyTn II starts charging right away, and stays charging. So whatever the Apple USB chargers do, they do work.
A thought for the car is to get a car charger made for the iPod, and see if that may work.
To be more accurate, the iPod charger starts charging the TyTn II right away, and the charge light stays lit. I've not actually done a controlled test on it. Just charged for awhile, and verified that the charge light comes on right away, and stays on. Everything looks normal, though. I will try a more controlled test, and post the resutls.
please keep us posted. I've also contaced HTC support about this, I'm waiting the response. Once I found out I will post here.
Hopefully iys not a ksier limitation.
Test results.
Battery at
- 61%, Display off while charging
- 83% - after 70 mins of charging. Then stopped, as was going out.
Started again at:
- 88%, Display off
- 100% - after 60 mins. A little shorter, probably, as I missed when the charge light went green.
I believe the PDA will fast charge up to around 80%, and then slow charge for the remainder. That would explain why it takes 60 mins to charge from 88% to 100%.
So, the iPod charger works great for a PDA, and will start charging right away when it is connected, and it will charge to 100% full charge. It is not the PDA that is stopping the charging. It just has special requirements that only some chargers can handle, so you have to get either a charger built for a PDA, or something like the iPod charger.
So it works quite well as a general purpose charger for iPods, and for the TyTn II, and probably anything that uses a USB charger. It is small, with interchangeable AC plugs. A good travel/general purpose charger. I can bring just this, and different cables for different devices. Phone, MP3, etc.
It is labeled Input:100-240V, Output 5V 1A
Looks like:
Apple MA592LL/A iPod USB Power Adapter
Just as an aside, I have a lithium battery pack 2 7/8" x 2 1/8" x 1/2" thick. It is rated at 2400mAh, input 5V, through a built in retractable USB plug. Output is 5V 450mAh through a female USB plug. Just extend the USB male plug and plug into any USB source to charge it. It works quite well as a small portable battery pack to power/charge a PDA if using GPS steadily. It's flat, and easy to carry.
And it is quite cheap.
ttt123, thanks for your info. I guess I need to get an iPod charger then.
I'm creating a new thread because I think my charging issue is unique...
My Kaiser will show an orange light and indicate that it's charging when:
1. Powered On and plugged in to: USB, AC power Adapter, or Car charger
but it will not take a charge and the orange light goes out after about two minutes.
2. Powered Off and plugged into: USB, AS Power, or car charger
but the orange light remains on and it never charges (tried 5 hours)
The device also does not sync, I don't see anything physcially wrong with the USB port, but it was damaged by water several weeks ago, it hasn't worked properly since.
I've been getting by with an external battery charger that I purhcased from Ebay.
Does anyway have any ideas? I've reflashed the device since then as well and there is no change in how it reacts to charging..
Hi echofive
I have the same problem with my Kaiser but at least it charges with just one of my 5 AC power adapters. Not in my Car charger and not on a USB connection.
Maybe it has something to do with the small USB pins on the Kaiser which are not properly aligned. You can try to bend them.
Good luck.
Hello, I was having this same issue and (long story short) I believe that it is the small USB pins on the phone.
Here is what I found (sorry knda long post). I have two ATT TILT phones. My Original Tilt phone got soaked in water but I was able to almost salvage the phone by soaking it in Denatured alcohol and letting it dry. This 'wet' Tilt has all functions but cannot read sim cards. It does however charge perfectly.
The replacement Tilt I have works like a charm but refuses to charge. Regardless of USB charging, off the wall charger or car charger, the orange light comes on, says it is charging but in 2 minutes the light goes out. The phone is still listed as charging but I know it is not charging because the battery level continues to drain. The phone does sync to my PC and I am able to transfer files to/from my new TILT via a USB cable. Just cannot charge the device.
I have 3 batteries. 2 stock batteries and the large 3200mah battery. All three batteries will not charge on my new TILT. I tried charging it via USB connected to my Computer, Car cigarette lighter, Car inverter charger, official TILT charger from CINGULAR ATT. Completely unable to charge the device.
If I attempt to charge the batteries (all three of them) on my old 'wet' TILT the batteries charge regardless of what method I use. It will charge via USB connected to the PC, USB connected to wall charger, official ATT TILT charger, or car charger. No issues. So I know the chargers, cables and batteries do charge on a TILT. Both TILTs are official ATT TILT devices. Two of the batteries are stock and 1 of the batteries is a SEIDO 3200mah.
Sometimes I get lucky and the new TILT phone does charge. In these cases I charged the phone using the Wall charger and the battery was over 50% capacity.
Now I know the new Tilt USB port is working because it syncs to my PC just doesnt charge after 2 minutes (light goes out) and battery continues to drain (watched and tested this after 3 hours of observation). I ended up ordering one of those TILT USB connectors which have a 3.5mm headphone jack and USB port.
This device: http://www.amazon.com/i-Trek-Stereo...8&s=musical-instruments&qid=1230877732&sr=8-4
What is weird is that I can now charge my NEW TILT using the USB port on this connector with this connector attached to my new TILT. If I attempt to charge the TILT using the onboard USB port, it stops after 2 minutes and the light goes out.
Personally, i think it has something to do with the pins. Hope this helps someone.
Jinkage said:
Regardless of USB charging, off the wall charger or car charger, the orange light comes on, says it is charging but in 2 minutes the light goes out. The phone is still listed as charging but I know it is not charging because the battery level continues to drain.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Been there, had that problem and the solution was even simpler and didn't involve the charging/USB port at all. Get a cotton bud (US folks call them Q-Tips) and spray some contact cleaner on it (not anywhere near the phone) and use it to carefully clean both the gold strips/terminals on the batteries along with the gold spring terminals on the phone. Although they may look clean, invisible grime film can make the connection fail and cause this problem. This is also a good tip to follow with ordinary household battery rechargers and NiMH cells. I haven't had this problem since but still carry out a terminal clean every few months to be on the safe side.
My phone wouldn't charge anymore. Searching through threads I found a magnificent magnified picture of the mini-USB port and the way the right part of the port was bent down a little. It was exactly like that with my phone, I used the pointing stick to tilt it up a little (be careful it may break of the pins, and that would lead you far from home!), which fixed! Haven't had the issue since!
Regards,
Nika.
Hi.
Have you still the link with the picture . I have the same problem an i am afraid , that i can kill my Kaiser
Regards
Dariely
Nope, sorry...
I had a similar issue with my Kaiser. It would charge with a USB cable and an ac adapter but not in the car. It used to but stopped. I took a dental tool and lifted the two little legs inside on the bottom of the mini usb port so they would contact the charger again and all is well.
nikagl said:
My phone wouldn't charge anymore. Searching through threads I found a magnificent magnified picture of the mini-USB port and the way the right part of the port was bent down a little. It was exactly like that with my phone, I used the pointing stick to tilt it up a little (be careful it may break of the pins, and that would lead you far from home!), which fixed! Haven't had the issue since!
Regards,
Nika.
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
YEAH!
Great Tip!
had the same issue as you a long time!
tilt up the pins: no more problem!
THANKS A LOT !
I straightened up the last pin. I was beginning to think it was my AC Charger...I plugged it in my Ashtray charger and it charged without a problem. I will see if this takes a charge. I didnt use any denatured alcohol, I just took the compressed air canisters used for computers and cleared out the usb port....
we wait now
My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?
Same strange thing happens to me since 2 weeks.
No Charge with power adapter, tried different modells.
No Charge in car
But Charge via USB from PC . And Activesync works...
Any Idea would be very helpful.
tytn2user said:
My 18 month old Tytn is not longer charger via the wall chager or car charge. But strangely it will charge is connected to the PC. I have tried a few different wall chargers including the original one and also test the wall charger on other charge by USB plug devices.
I have done a hard reset and also re-installed the stock rom.
Any other idea's ?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Same here, no fix, just dealing with it, hoping the charge by usb doesn't crap out.
A few months ago I receive a wallcharger from a friend who had a HTC TOUCH, as I inspected the voltage on my original TYTN II charger and the touch charger I figured out the touch charger would do the job, so I plugged in and for a brief moment the amber light go on, but almost inmediately it went of, so I guess it would not work with my phone.
But I rechecked the voltage and got me thinking what could be wrong, and after messing around a little bit with the charger and the usb plug I found out that for some reason if I plug the usb jack all the way down it doesn't make contact with the phone usb, so I have to plug it half way to make it contact and charge the phone.
Maybe that would be your case.
Good Luck.
in my situation the yellow loading light of the TytnII is even switching on when I connect the power charger . But even after being yellow=loading for a full night .
No Change in battery status
Freecall
My Tilt had a loose Mini-USB connector thing.
:S
OK. After reading people having the same problem I decided to pull mine down and take a look. Expecting to find a blown SM fuse on the circuit board. To my surprise I did not find any SM fuses in that area of the USB plug. While I had it apart I noticed some damage to the USB socket, viewable from the outside without having to pull it apart . I re-assembled the unit and VERY VERY carefully tweaked the damaged pin (pin 1 in my case) with the tiniest sewing needle I could find in the sewing kit. I bent the gold color wire back into a position matching the other 4 and pulled it into a wall charger and it started charging. So the problem in my case was a damaged pin 1 in the USB plug visible from the outside.
Charging is done by the two outside pins.
For the pinouts check out http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml Picture on the left hand side of the screen called MINI is the same as looking at the plug on the tytn from the outside.
While looking at the plug with a magnifier I could clearly see that pin 1 was collapsed into the plastic center part and would not be making contact with the USB charger when inserted.
I will need to take more care when inserting a USB plug from now on and reduce the amount of time I used the plug. I have been geocaching with my TytnII the last few weeks and it has resulted in a lot of plugging in each time when returning to the car. This practice will have to stop for me if I want to get more millage out of my tytnII.
Just reading up on USB chargers, and I found somewhere in a thread here about phones defaulting to smaller ma when charging via USB if the connector didn't have the data pins shorted or something.
So, I was wondering a couple of things:
1) If the default charger supplies 700ma, do you think that is the most the Nexus S can draw? Does anyone have one of these shorted USB chargers? Does it charge the NS faster?
2) If it does charge faster, how hard would it be to do something similar to shorting the data connections? I have a generic AC-USB cable which I currently use for my iPod touch.
3) Is there a way to check if it is already shorted out? The USB charging port looks similar to ones on my computer, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Thanks for any help! Maybe if we can sort out this stuff, we can provide a solution for those looking for faster charging!
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
AllGamer said:
it does work safely, i'm using a 1000 mAh charger at home, and a 2000 mAh charger in the car both are from aftermarket eBay/DealExtreme charges.
no overheating
and charges faster than stock
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Ok thankyou for that AllGamer, I'll think of possible ways I could mod the charger now
The only reason it is slow is because of the USB charging brick instead of just a charger.
Sent from my Nexus S using XDA App
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
XBOHDPuKC said:
I know it's a wrong thread, but anyone has any pointers as to how to short a regular USB cable to make the phone think it's a power adapter cable?
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Nah it's not the wrong thread that was one of my questions! I'm not sure exactly where you would do it, but maybe if you skinned the wire, then cut the data lines it would work?
Not sure which end you would do it on however, but that may not matter. Any other ideas?
The two center pins in the USB carry the data. If you pull them out, the cable won't be able to connect to the computer.
Sent from my Nexus S
Wow - you don't need to do this and you wouldn't want to in a computer anyway.
The USB specification says that 500ma (@ 5v) of current should be available from a computer's USB port. Of course, the actual wires can carry much more than this, so manufacturers can tell their phones to takes as much current as is offered.
Almost all computers limit their USB power output accordingly - this is why some opld usb-powered external hard drives needed 2 USB plugs to get enough power. The only computers that I am SURE emit significantly more than 500ma on their USB ports are first and second generation MacBook Airs.
Some phones, the N1 and every other HTC specifically, look for a specially shorted cable to "know if they are plugged into the wall adaptor" as opposed to a computer USB port. In reality, this is just a way to make you specifically buy HTC chargers as opposed to third-party off-brands, because plugging one of these phones into an off brand charger will limit the current draw to about 450ma.
If you want to know if your Android phone thinks that it is in "USB" mode or in "AC" mode, just plug the phone in, open the dialer, enter *#*#4636#*#* and then select battery info. If your phone is one that cares (not all do), it will say USB if it thinks it should be in USB charging mode, or AC if it thinks it should be in AC charging mode.
I would not try shorting out the middle pins in a cable and then plugging it into the computer. First, most will probably just disable the USB port completely, shutting off even power you could draw. Second, if it doesn't shut down, you run the risk that a badly-built USB port might not properly limit the current to 500ma - and since they are not designed to furnish more current than that, you might melt something expensive or start a fire. third, if you make a mistake, you risk shorting out either your phone or your computer, which might ruin your day, week or month, depending on your financial means to replace the system that cooks itself.
I would just run out to your local store, pay 15 bucks for a 2A third-party usb charger brick, and go to town. That will work perfectly - this is what I use, and it probably cuts the charge time by 30-40%. Obviously, this indicates that the NS is not capable of drawing a full 2A - I have not put a meter on it, but I would bet that it limits itself to somewhere just under an amp in.
I have recently bought both a 2A wall charger and car charger and my phone does not recognise either of these as anything more than a 500mA source.
Is it really just a case of opening the car charger up and shorting out pins 2 & 3? they are currently not connected to anything in the charger.
If it's indeed a matter of shorting the data lines, then I think you can skin the wire as suggested by others, but then cut the data lines, short the end that leads to the phone, leave the end to the computer open. I think it's the phone that tries to determine whether the data lines are shorted.
Edit: Can someone measure the continuity between the data pins with the stock charger? I wonder if they are shorted. I'm still waiting for my Nexus S to arrive, so can't test it.
Yup, the data lines in the stock Nexus S charger ARE shorted.
I just modified a cheap 1A car charger by popping it open, soldering the 2 data lines together and putting it back.
The report on the Nexus S before I did this (*#*#4636#*#*) said "USB", and afterwards it now says "AC".
I will report back after I make a road trip if this improves the GPS + Pandora + Screen in car situation. I suspect it will.
----------------
Yup, the car charger seemed to actually maintain and increase the battery this time. Seems good.
The NS supports chargers output to a max of 1000mA, as it says on the back of it, where the battery resides.
So this is my first motorola and I had heard of the issues they have with non motorola chargers. Now I am experiencing it first hand. With the same ac charger I have charged many phones with and is capable of 1 amp output (D4 charger is only rated at 850 mA) my D4 struggles. With the device off it charged painfully slowly. While on it cannot even charge. It discharges while plugged in despite the charging indicator and reporting "charging (AC)" in status.
How does it know it is not a moto charger? Is it just about the resistance between the data pins? For most other phones shorting the data pins on the charger indicates to the phone that it is a high current charger and not a computer USB port. Is there a similar trick for motorola phones? I would rather not have to purchase an overpriced moto oem car charger. I have a perfectly fine 1.2 amp car charger soldered directly into my car's 12v system behind the dash. Can I make it work?
Thanks!
On a regular basis I successfully charge my D4 using both a charger from a Samsung Reality feature phone and from a B&N Nook Simple Touch, in addition to the one that came with it. I've also used a variety of car chargers.
Sent from my DROID4 using XDA
Actually, so far I have only one charger that had any trouble charging the phone (it was a $3 charger with 2 USB ports), but the $3 charger with ONE USB port works fine, as does the Nook Color charger, Blackberry charger, and Samsung charger I have tried it with, as well as both my old car charger and Lenovo's always-on charging port on their laptops.
JKingDev said:
So this is my first motorola and I had heard of the issues they have with non motorola chargers. Now I am experiencing it first hand. With the same ac charger I have charged many phones with and is capable of 1 amp output (D4 charger is only rated at 850 mA) my D4 struggles. With the device off it charged painfully slowly. While on it cannot even charge. It discharges while plugged in despite the charging indicator and reporting "charging (AC)" in status.
How does it know it is not a moto charger? Is it just about the resistance between the data pins? For most other phones shorting the data pins on the charger indicates to the phone that it is a high current charger and not a computer USB port. Is there a similar trick for motorola phones? I would rather not have to purchase an overpriced moto oem car charger. I have a perfectly fine 1.2 amp car charger soldered directly into my car's 12v system behind the dash. Can I make it work?
Thanks!
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
Not sure how it knows one way or the other. I've successfully used a few LG chargers to charge my D4. The only really hickup I've ran into is the usb cables from those lg chargers won't sync data to the phones when plugged into a computer, they'll still charge off the usb port but won't read as a usb connection to the computer.
Heh, captcha is trynply.
Every charger I've used, including an old charger for an EN-V, kindle, supplied, and various other phone chargers works just fine with this phone. Probably have a bad charger, guy.
Thanks for the replies. I guess I was wrong. My modded car charger works just fine. I guess its just time to retire the old charger that I have been using. I think it might be my old nexus one charger.
A more important question would be does the thing charge over computer-bound USB ports?
When you're without a charger, but there's a USB cable that fits your phone, sometimes a regular USB data port is the only that is around... even though it might take a really long time.
Try a computer bound USB port, then try your actual charger, again. Or do the hard reset (vol down plus power, hold until it actually does it), which is just like pulling the battery.
See how that goes.
Chris
RueTheDayTrebek said:
A more important question would be does the thing charge over computer-bound USB ports?
When you're without a charger, but there's a USB cable that fits your phone, sometimes a regular USB data port is the only that is around... even though it might take a really long time.
Try a computer bound USB port, then try your actual charger, again. Or do the hard reset (vol down plus power, hold until it actually does it), which is just like pulling the battery.
See how that goes.
Chris
Click to expand...
Click to collapse
It does in fact charge via USB port. In fact, it has a 'charge only' mode. Depending on how much juice your port puts out, and what you are doing with the phone, it will charge slowly/not at all, though.
from my experiences, the droid 4 will not accept lg microusb cables, the charging bricks work tho. i use a blackberry microusb on mine along with a Logitech and the stock moto ones. 1.2 amps is a bit high but not crazy sounding. personally, I charge at 1 amp.